Top Secret Mechanics Trick 2! HOW TO remove extremely rusty exhaust nuts FAST without heat.
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- Опубліковано 6 гру 2022
- In this video I demonstrate the fastest and most efficient way to remove extremely rusty exhaust hardware without heat! Never use a torch again to remove rusted exhaust stud nuts. This work on all nuts not just exhaust or rusted. Works for stripped nuts also. Anything you can't grab with a wrench or socket. Not only can your remove any nut in less than 1 minuet, but this process also 100% saves the threads on the stud. The treads inside are always perfect and will accept a new nut.
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Now that's what I call a professional tutorial. No lengthy stories, straight to the solution. Good job
Right, like seven minutes too long actually.
7MINUTES IS SUUUPER LENGHTY
From a retired toolmaker from Australia a very excellent tutorial of the process with no waffle just facts .This 76 year old fella just learnt another helpful life tip .Thank You
Are u sure yr a toolmaker, coz IF u are surely this is old abc knowledge.
@@cmx4eva YES I Certainly am a toolmaker not a red neck mechanic and you learn different skills . So here is a test for you . Try to figure out how do you cut a left hand thread into a 10mm [3/8''] thick piece of metal using a R.H. tap . And yes it can be done I was shown by a older Russian toolmaker .
@@cmx4eva
Also ABC knowledge is that tool makers deal with almost no rust. Certainly not the kind you find under a salty road car.
@@kevinklei3005 I am curious... how?
Me 75 , Amateur in Mechanics , I too learned something new from him……
My dad taught me that trick with a hand chisel back in the 1970's. He learned it back in the 1930's, Nice to see that not all older methods have been totally forgotten. Still, now that I'm older and II cheat and use a nutcracker where I can.
Agree, that's the old way. 👍
Angle grinder to the nut and done. You're not wanting to save that hardware anyway.
@@dickJohnsonpeter Agreed. If you can't afford to replace rust-damaged hardware, you're not charging your customers enough.
@@networkedperson Well yes, if it's that far gone it isn't any use anymore.
today Nobody does this way , cut the old bolt then heat up half bolt left on flange and punch it out , replace new bolt ,
I’m finally glad someone told us how get off swollen rusty nuts . I was so impressed I made my wife watch this.
Main problem is that most of the time you need to remove those nuts in areas where little to no access is present. E.g. Exhaust manifold
That's what I'm encountering with my GF's '05 Mazda 6. It spent its first few years on the east coast (road salt!) and I'm having a HELL of a time getting the busted flex pipe off. I'm about ready to torch the turd.
@@NordicDan I don't know how east coast mechanics deal with this crap. I could never imagine that much salt and crap on the underside of my car.
@@life_of_riley88 I guess annual underbody treatments with different options to spray oil on the undercarriage are available, but knowing how most people are with cars, I can bet not everyone would do it. I sure as hell would rough since I do my own work lol
@@NordicDan a lot of times I will take a 12pt socket of one size smaller or a easy out socket with a long extension from under the vehicle and pound onto the nut with a hammer and then wrench them off. Usually the pounding on of the socket will break the rusted nut loose enough to help them spin off.
@@midnightrider1854 that usually works pretty good too.
Whenever I can I make sure to hit the fasteners with Mouse Milk or Gibbs too before I try to break it loose. 90% of the time that's all it takes but then that other 10% is a busted knuckle extravaganza 😂
Great tip. But for those without an air chisel, they make a tool just for this and it's a whole lot smaller than an air hammer. It's called a nut splitter! It has an open end you put around the nut and then you screw in a hardened punch it has on it.
It wont fit in limited access areas like this.
A nut splitter is much smaller than an air chisel.
Those nut splitters sound good but damn near never fit anywhere.
Use a heat inducter
Makes it go faster yet
They never work
Perfect tutorial, no waffle, straight to the point and very well explained. Thank you 👍👍.
quite a lot of waffle..
What do you mean no waffle, half the damned video is waffle!! I'm shouting at the screen GET ON WITH SHOWING US HOW instead of talking about it ffs!!!
removing this with a grinder is mutch vaster. And "the secret trick"i tought every mechanic nows it already
@@richardd3663can you do better (?)
One of the best tips I've ever seen. Thank you, Mike!
Awesome, had to remove exhaust on my truck, the nuts on my exhaust flange looked just like these, thought I'd be cutting them off with hot wrench and replacing studs, took a chance and watched this, within 20 minutes after watching I had everything off, saved me at least 90 minutes of work. Thanks so much!!!!!!
YES!!!! This right here is why I started this UA-cam channel! Awesome
Yes, and not to mention how much safer this method is !
Great video. You know, I’ve been doing this stuff a long time but you literally never stop learning. Thank you!
Hey MotorMike....
I used your method EXACTLY on my Toyota exhaust flange. My flange looked much like in this video. Viola! It worked perfectly!!! and as you said, the threads on this rusted stud under the nut were perfect while the rest of the stud was corroded. I was so exited that this worked. Thanks for your video.
Pretty slick! For less rusted but hopelessly stuck nuts that you really want to save, clamp a pair of Vise-Grips on the nut as hard as you can. That forces the thread together in the direction it is being clamped and opening up a small gap 90 degrees from it. Spray penetrant oil on the end, letting the fluid wick in. Repeat on as many pairs of faces as you can, then use the usual tools to remove the nut. It will still fight, but at least 3/4 of the time I simply could not get a nut loose this made it happen.
Two good tricks for the price of one! 😂
Thanks for the straight forward video... If you DON'T have air tools or hammer-drills, you can use a dremel with reinforced cutting wheel and cut a groove into the nut and pry with a flat-head screwdriver OR cut 2 grooves from 2 different angles and watch it fall off on its own. Takes two minutes. Less time if more rot :)
so good of you to have had this idea and posted it here.
you model how we all benefit via evolving
@spacefury65 I unfortunately used a grinding wheel, and a piece of metal fell down into my muffler. I have removed the muffler, can hear the metal piece move around as I flip the muffler in my hands 180 degrees. My question sir, is how do I get that piece of loose metal out of the muffler..? Thank you for your time and any advice is very much appreciated.
Great tip, well explained, good pacing on the video. Thanks for putting this together!
I used nut splitters back in the 1980s, simple and easy when you don't have compressed air.
yes. Unfortunately, they are always limiting on a vehicle. Often, they don't fit around the backside of the nut.
Same here, had different sizes, that was also in the 80’s, always found the vibration caused other issues when using an air chisel, not to mention the noise pollution
I have yet to find a splitter that works.
I used a torch heated the nut and melted it without harming the threads. This will work but I didn't like the airhammer on exhaust
Yes, if you want to know about rust come to the UK.
I’m a beginner technician at work rn and this completely saved my day, THANK YOU!!!!!
Excellent video! Straight and to the point, very informative. Best part, no acid rock music that some contributors feel is absolutely necessary. Great job!
To the point after a seven minute delay talking about nothing pertinent.
This is the sort of magic that, once learned, is never forgotten. Thank you!👍
Has to be one of the most valuable life skills a man could have. Thanks for sharing.
One of the best videos I've seen, the way you removed them is great, it comes down to common sense way of doing things, it's amazing what you can do with a chisel and hammer, or any other type of tools you have, great video, THANKS, SUBSCRIBED.
That’s amazing and so simple. Thank you Mike that’s priceless.
This also works with stuck bearing races. I do it all the time when changing wheel bearings. Obviously isnt going to work on every single rusted thing ever but it does work quite often, Id say like 85% of the time. Sometimes a saw and replacement parts are just better, just use your judgement. Excellent video 👍👍
Great information.
You discussed what was going to happen. You removed the but and discussed each step. Then you did a second but in real-time. Nice job.
Learn something new every day. Didn't think that whole thing would move or just fall apart.
Easier to cut them off and use new bolts and nuts. I don't see any advantage using stressed and rusted hardware..
Nice work! Personally, I would have cut it off, drilled it out and replaced with a new nut and bolt though!
you never want to voluntarily drill an exhaust stud. They are super hardened over time from all the heat. It's a good way to kill drill bits. better option if the Nut won't come off is to cut the stud behind the nuts to remove the mating part. Then cut the remining stud flush with its own flange. then heat the flange around the stud till its glowing red and take a punch and punch the stud through. It will blow the treads out and leave a nice clean hole to pass a new bolt through. You'll be finished the whole job before you drill out 1 stud.
That's exactly what I did on my exhaust.
@@motormike43 great answer and as you have shown it's the last resort too,great learning video for those that dont use this method,those air tools are great at unsleaving exhaus tsections too that slide into each other,have a great day
@@motormike43 00000000000⁰000
If they are that bad then I usually won't cut them. I will heat up the flange just like Mike said then put the easy out socket on the stud and put it in reverse and it will rip right out usually taking the threads with it. Then the nut and bolt passes right through. Same but with no pounding of the hot steel with an air hammer and possibly bending the ear of the flange preventing it from sealing.
Thanks for your brilliant tutorial. I've always used a torch, today I learned a new method from you. All the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Another great real-world tip. Thank you so much for sharing these tips they are truly valuable. Please keep em coming.
I love finding tricks like this that are repeatable every time, but I'd rather call it very good problem solving skills. I'm always thinking of a better way of doing something...great job.
Great tip and well filmed. Thanks for taking the time to share 👍
Yes agreed great footage and thanks for the content
Excellent video, straight to the point of the does and don'ts, and why alternative methods, such as using a torch is just more complex and not necessary. THANKS ! ! !
Absolutely liked, subscribed, and added to my private Automotive UA-cam playlist!
I'm always thinking of heat all the time. That is an EXCELLENT idea. I will have to remember this next time this happens to me. I will give it a try.👍
This is an excellent method I only heard about a couple years ago. Muffler shops use a torch to heat fatigue the good parts so you'll be back for more parts and labor charges. Last time I went to one they short circuited when I said "don't torch the good parts". Thanks!
Great tip. First time I have seen this trick
A good mechanic thinks out of the box. Thanks for this video.
Excellent time Saving Tip !! ...You just taught an old gearhead a New trick.....Wish I knew this 50 yrs ago.....Thx for sharing....
An SDS drill set to chisel might well do the same job. Nut splitters are fine so long as the nut is big enough and accessible.
I’ve been a mechanic over 50 years I love air chisel I see very few people doing the artwork do you have just done I’ve tried to teach many Fuel learned and I see very few mechanics doing it like that absolutely perfect
You don’t see this often because a grinder or reciprocating saw is five times faster.
just what I was looking for. straight to the point, where I can't really use heat. 2 thumbs up!
Thanks for this tip. I used it yesterday and it worked great on my 29-year-old car.
Damn, very nice video & tutorial! And a great trick to boot! Perfectly done in every aspect!
THANK-YOU VERY MUCH SIR, YOUNG FELLA SHOWING AN OLD DOG A NEW TRICK, BLESSINGS TO YA MATE !!
This is amazing, been using this for a while now. Used to grab the torch or cut them off. This is 10x easier and faster!
Worked like a champ! I had to buy an air hammer, but already had the compressor. Thanks for sharing.
Up here in New York state, I see rust like this all the time. I'm going to try that trick next time. Usually I just torch them off, and replace the hardware.
Can also cut the groove with a small dremel cutting wheel or grinding bit, with some precision. Then you can hammer a chisel into that. Possibly a quicker way to do it without an air hammer than hammering the chisel for the whole thing.
also avoids rattling the shit out of the whole exhaust system. potentially damaging cats etc
That's exactly what I was thinking too
Haven't seen this done for quite some time. Thanks for the reminder. We used to do this with just a hammer and chisel on stubborn nuts back in the day on my dad's log truck. I'm going to use this method to remove the rusty u bolt nuts from my old boat trailer tomorrow. Looking forward to putting my air chisel to good use.
Good trick thanks for sharing!
Did this today and after a good hour with the air hammer , heat, and more heat, it came off. Once I got the one side the other side came off in a quarter of the time maybe . Appreciate you making this video tons!
Awesome. Make sure your chisel is razor sharp and re-sharpen as needed. SNap-on ones get replaced for free after they are ground so many times there's nothing left.
Die grinder with a cutoff wheel would have had it apart in a minute.
@@nitroustommy3668 There is not good access for that tool.
Usually when the rust is that bad, the flange is compromised and will probably not seal.
Furry to[to your Dr esse to you in in😮😮😮
It still has to be taken apart. What if the flange was good but the pipe was cut off with a sawzall? This was lightning fast. Sawzall would have taken more time.
That's what i was thinking
Awesome work!! Thank you for teaching us great techniques and to do a great job!!
Excellent work!
Helluva neat trick, Kid! Bravo!
I’m 41 but I’ll take it lol
Nice work and an easy task for folks with access to a well equipped pro-workshop. Lesser folks like me have to use manual hand tools to remove super-corroded fasteners with carefully aimed Big Hammer .. 👍
yeah exactly. easy when you have all the gear
Thank you for posting, been having problems with cat nuts on a 95 taco, propane torch did nothing, i will try this next.
Very helpful mike!
Nifty ! I've seen quite a few of what I'd otherwise consider damn good mechanics waste a lot of time with heat on such jobs. Even just a regular hammer & chisel will work virtually every time so long as you have access. Luckily my uncle taught me this when I was a kid. A torch is a must for certain things though.
In the absence of an air chisel , heat and an undersized socket hammered on works great . Also an angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc and a new bolt works very quickly and easily .
Heat makes it faster and easier, less damage as well. They knew what they were doing. If this was a smaller fastener , he'd have broken it before he got it apart
Outstanding! Here in california I have never seen this kind of Rust.
North east everything looks like this. I miss the dealership days of only working on new cars lol
I am in New York
Everything is rusted 🙄
Here in Minnesota, I've never wondered if the car is going to fall off the jack stands during a quake!
@@frankhoward7645 Good Point! After All the rains, all We Need are a few GOOD Earthquakes! There a Commin!!!
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 Mainly due to salt.
This is a really slick trick!
Great technique and video. Well done Sir…
They actually sell nut breakers for stuff like that. The only issues with broken bolts is when the threaded part is broke in places like the heads. But for those without a $20 tool, your method works great.
yes. I've found the nut crackers are always limiting. Very often on a vehicle there isn't enough clearance behind the nut to fit the tool even when the nut has decent access.
those without a $20 tool but a xxx$ air chisel and compressor..
25 years as a tech and this is a GREAT trick I've never seen before. Thanks!
I hope this saves you some time and makes you some money!
@@motormike43 great job young man!! excellent, noise sometimes it is part of a muffler job. 100--100 ty
Thanks so much for the tip.....Been using heat my entire life!! Nice shortcut!!!
Great tip! Thank you
Great idea. I wonder what the vibration does for the integrity of the convertor?
Probably far less than the road vibration it has to deal with on a daily basis.
@@hydewhyte4364 I don't think so, the acceleration ("g"-ees), which this jet chisel develops is hundreds of times higher than every-day vibrations. @mikefennema5561 made a good point about the damage a chisel can do to the convertor or Ox sensors.
That'd be my concern as well. I used an impact on my exhaust, and only a few miles later it plugged up hard and quick enough to blow a well maintained 2.2l
I thought he said they were replacing the converter?
Pretty sure that converter is toast anyway 😂
Nice job! Even after many decades in the trade I can still learn a thing or two!!
That’s pretty cool. Thanks for sharing! Now I know.
Very satisfying watching all the rust fly off like that!
1 word!. .heat 🔥! Why are we trying to save that stud??
It's awesome when a chunk of that rust lands in your eye. It's like it has claws and won't come out.
That and all the sharp rust flakes in your hair and down the neck.
Been there done that. Mechanic here for over 30+yrs and that is one of the many hazards of my jobs that even safety glasses cannot 100 percent prevent. (But they really help reduce it). And when it happens and you instantly try to get it out the worst part is scratching the lens of your eye. Now for 2-3 days your eye is red and swollen and feels like it is full of sand. 😢😂
When i seen the heading for this video, I said, this i gotta see. Very impressed with how nice you presented this and I am now a subscriber to the channel, thank you.
Awesome, much appreciated from Lismore NSW Australia
Great Tip, will come in handy one day
Hope it helps save time and aggravation
Good video I subscribed!
Thanks for the follow. I’m just getting started
Thanks for sharing man, this is genius. I've never seen someone do this method.
Of course i see this video now after I spent hours grinding and welding my exhaust. Looks like it work’s awesome
Not sure if it would be powerful enough but a battery powered hammer drill set to just hammer and don't spin might be a substitute for the air hammer. Works quite well as a small job jack hammer on concrete.
I’ve used a Horrible freight electric hammer drill before and I believe it would be powerful enough
Wish I watched this video a week ago, took me 2 days to get that snapped stud out of the turbo. This would have relieved the nut no problem.
Turbo handwear is always super hardened from all the heat. never fun
oct 28 2023
nice touch with the zoom lens. good lighting too.
showing us the air hammer used was a thoughtful addition
Smart way! The exhaust pipe of my car gets the same kind of rusted bolts and nuts, I heated them for a long time, but I was still unable to remove them. Thanks for the tip!
Good tip!! Guess I need to add an air hammer to the toolbox 😎
Yes High quality air gun, and a great high volume air compressor. Cheep tools are not reliable enough for the trasdes when you have to push the tool.
It’s a very valuable tool. I use mine often. You’ll see many more air hammer tips videos on my channel in the future.
or just a nut splitter from harbor freight.
Or spend Dan near $600 on a matco long barrel and call it done. Cheap tools have their place but a good air hammer is not something that I would cheap out on cause when you need it you really don’t want it to fail
The secret here is OBVIOUSLY the air chisel. I don't have one of those but I do have a metal chisel and hammer so it will take me a lot longer. Thanks for the tip though ! I always have a lot of respect for most mechanics especially Millwrights.
Yep, I thought the same thing. And a good SHARP chisel.
I don’t have an air chisel. A dremel tool with cut off disc works great too to cut nut in half.
Great tip 👍 I did think "yeah like your gonna get a thread under that" 😮
Worked for me on a 5.7 hemi exhaust manifold heat shield nut that had dissolved from 10 to less than 8mm hex. Life saver! I’m gonna be using this practice a lot.
The nuts used on exhaust hardware, especially on clampts like the one shown, are typically fairly soft steel. It is not hard to cut that groove into one of them by striking it with a cold chisel, using a hammer on the cold chisel. A power tool makes the job a little faster, but is not needed. Takes maybe 15 seconds with an air-chisel, 60 seconds with a hammer and chisel. If there is a enough space, you may be able to crack the nut by using a "nut-cracker" around the nut. This is a simple tool that cuts into the nut using a threaded rod to apply the leverage that is used to force a cold chisel into the nut. The threaded rod is used instead of a a hammer. It is king od like like putting a c-clamp around the nut, but instead of clamping onto the nut, the device cuts into the nut.
Difference is I will hit my fingers at least 1 out of 25 swings which makes me flinch. I will never hit my fingers with the air hammer 😉
@@phazerboyNah. I don't think so. You grip the cold chisel the same way we see MotorMike gripping the air chisel. If the hammer hits the end of the chisel and then slips off, it will hit the side of your thumb and forefinger, causing your palm to go sliding down along the chisel. If you aren't wearing a glove you may scrape some skin, but you aren't likely to crush any bones. Not unless you completely miss the chisel and smack your hand. Even then, you are hitting the sides of your forefinger, which will bang into your long finger, which will bang into your finger, which will bang into your pinky, which may eventually bang into the clamp, but only if you are using a rather short cold chisel. You're not likely to draw any blood. That's what I think will happen. I don't remember ever injuring myself this way.
I've always had sympathy for muffler shops that have to install new parts on horribly rusted components. It's so easy when everything is brand new, but that is rarely the case in the real world.
Thanks a lot - sharpened my larger chisel and this worked like a dream - did take awhile but was a lifesaver!
Seriously I was hoping you were doing the pipe to exhaust manifold those are a challenge
My dad showed me how to do that with a hammer and chisel. I remember spending an hour or so under the car removing the exhaust...
Nice work! I've almost used this trick except I never thought I could reuse the bolt.
Awesome man, I need exactly this!
Let’s go brandon 🍦🍦🍦
Grinder
What are you doing with the grinder?
@@motormike43 cut the nut off
I usually zip saw the nut/bolt off and install new hardware. I wouldn’t leave the rusted bolt on there. Good tip though
You can if you are careful cut through one side of the nut with a slitting disc
Excellent Tip! I can't wait to try this; Thanks for sharing!
Nice work MIKE, I been doing the same thing for years. JOB WELL DONE FELLA !!!
I did that 50 years ago.
Most DIY guys don't have a compressor ( I do) so they can try a nut splitter from harbor freight.
If you don't have a compressor, use a hammer. It's just going to take a little bit longer.
Nut splitters suck and there's not room on a nut like that. As mentioned a plain chisel and a hammer does the same. I'm just not sure why you'd bother trying to save that stud either you can sawzall through the flange knock the stud out and replace with a bolt set
Harbor Freight carried a nice electric drill with a true hammer function for around $70. Useful tool for other projects as well.
or get a cheap cut off wheel for 20 bucks
Jesus said, If you do not have an air compressor sell your cloak and buy one.
You didn't show how you broke the pipe flanges loose, oftentimes they're so rusted you cause them damage breaking the connection loose.
these flanges were good. Im sure a future video will include some bad flanges that ill have to replace.
Best tip I will do it with my 09 Honda pilot thanks for the video.
This is so effing awesome to see I cannot believe it. Total game changer. Bring on the rusty bolts! Subscribed!
Vibration can kill the cat. Use the oxiacetillene torch to cut off.
25 years in the industry and I do this every single day. No Cats have ever been harmed. also in 25 years and as a shop owner I've probably replaced less than 10 cats ever from a bad cat code. Cats dont go bad. Unless they have a full meltdown from someone driving for weeks with a dead misfire. mutiple P0420 P0430 codes per week. Its always something else. Ill have videos on that soon
No. If you ever discover a cat that seemed to be damaged from doing this, it was already bad.
Then dodge every pothole.
I've been a tech for more than 30yrs professionally. And I have to agree. A catalytic converter takes an extremely hard and abusive life between heat and cool down cycles and rough roads like potholes and road vibrations. As long as you aren't hammering directly on the body of the cat or the mounting flange directly in front of behind the cat I don't see, in my opinion, where it would be damaged. And if it was, then it was probably already cracked and you just finished it off.
Replace all that rusty shit and put new cat new 😮😮😮