Great video!! Appreciate it. I have added an electric fuel pump and just rebuilt my 34 epcs yesterday after watching your videos. Helped alot. How about a tuning epc 34s video? Also my pump says 2-4 psi.....wondering if I need a regulator? Still smelling gas maybe a little rich. At least carbs are no longer leaking.
A fuel regulator is great in theory. Problem is that you have to buy a high quality one. I’ve tried 2 cheaper versions and they both leaked internally before I could even complete a video about it. Even with a high quality regulator, I still don’t trust pressure gauges, so I do t run them right now. In my case, the proper fuel pressure delivery was obvious after I installed a good fuel pump because the Bus then ran so well, and the carbs haven’t leaked since. I also feel that the reg and gauges are just more places to leak fuel while you’re driving, which is scary, and why I run my fuel filter under my rear fender too. HOWEVER, if you buy top dollar gear, install fittings correctly, and monitor them, it should be all good. When I get this 1800cc built, I’m sure I’ll have to re-tune my 34’s. Could be a few months but I’ll try to pop a vid 👍 Also I smell gas on mine (inside) after a fill up because the tank gasket is bad. If you’re smelling it at the engine you could try to lean out your your idle jet screw. Turn them to the right, until the engine stumbles, then back left a quarter turn.
I just bolded that empi kit on mi 1600 vw with I think same fuel pump I have read lot of info about over fuel issues caused by high pressure of the mechanic pump I usually use an OTC gauge and just as you said, once I got a read then another I added some gaskets under the fuel pump to reduce pressure because I don’t want my needle valves to be worn so that your carbs will never shut off Wanted to buy y those cheap regulator but as u say in the comments there is a lot of issues if u don’t buy an expensive one My question is Haven’t you have any over fuel issues ? Like the carbs are always dropping gasoline ??? Recently I read 2.5 psi at the inlet of the carb with the gaskets I just told you
Coincidentally, I’m uploading a vid right now that shows how over fueling from an electric pump invaded my carburetors. I don’t use the mechanical pumps anymore, but even those pump way too high pressure. The solution for me is a fuel regulator. I’m using a cheaper regulator right now, but it’s working, until I get a good one.
I know this is old but do you think the empi 34's are worth it. I have a stock 1600 with tri mil exhaust. How are these compared to going with 40's 2 barrels?
I’ll give my OPINION. I’m not a fan of over-carbing an engine because you often end up jetting them way down and have tuning frustrations. However, 40’s would technically run the engine, but too much air intake from the carbs just seems to confuse the valve train. Basically, with 40’s, and enough wizardry and patience you can get them to work on a 1600, and you WILL FEEL the extra grunt. Another downside is that I personally haven’t met an EMPI 40 that doesn’t leak from the valley plugs. I don’t think I need 40’s until I’m running over 1800cc engine. I currently run dual 34’s on my 1800 in my bug and it walks pretty fast, gets good gas mileage, and is easy to tune. Plus I’ve never seems EMPI 34’s leak from galley plugs. It is imperative though that you replace the Empi hardware with the redline Weber hardware in the carb (needle, seat, washer) etc. I made a vid on that too. Now in a BUS with a 1600, you want bottom end torque, Which I believe over-carving robs you of anyway. You can get 40’s, but I wouldn’t get Empi because the like I said (maybe it’s just my experience) everyone I’ve seen has leaked. Then you can pay your hard earned dues tuning them, lose bottom end, but gain top end. Only downside to 34’s period is that the single throats don’t evenly feed the cylinders at idle, and no doubt that on throat per cylinder is optimal. But for less than 1800cc engine, the single throats feed the cylinders good enough, that if you’re properly tuned, then it doesn’t wobble at idle. I posted a instagram vid of a beer bottle literally sitting on top of my carb at idle without falling off, and to this day that engine is completely still at idle (with 34’s). The only effect of the single throat 34’s is that if I pull the plugs, the #1 and #3 will have a smidge more smut on them from being richer at idle than the 2 & 4 cylinders. No problem because I keep my plugs clean anyway and TO ME it’s worth it. Hope this helps, good luck, and stay dubbin.🤙🏼
Thank you so much for taking the time with that very complete reply. Much appreciated
No problem. ACVW peeps gotta share.
I like that drip pan for work area!
LOL yup, things can roll away but they can’t roll off. Especially since they’d land in the dirt in the barn. Dirt road dubbin!
Nice information.
Very informative!
Sweet!
Great video!! Appreciate it. I have added an electric fuel pump and just rebuilt my 34 epcs yesterday after watching your videos. Helped alot. How about a tuning epc 34s video? Also my pump says 2-4 psi.....wondering if I need a regulator? Still smelling gas maybe a little rich. At least carbs are no longer leaking.
A fuel regulator is great in theory. Problem is that you have to buy a high quality one. I’ve tried 2 cheaper versions and they both leaked internally before I could even complete a video about it. Even with a high quality regulator, I still don’t trust pressure gauges, so I do t run them right now. In my case, the proper fuel pressure delivery was obvious after I installed a good fuel pump because the Bus then ran so well, and the carbs haven’t leaked since. I also feel that the reg and gauges are just more places to leak fuel while you’re driving, which is scary, and why I run my fuel filter under my rear fender too. HOWEVER, if you buy top dollar gear, install fittings correctly, and monitor them, it should be all good.
When I get this 1800cc built, I’m sure I’ll have to re-tune my 34’s. Could be a few months but I’ll try to pop a vid 👍
Also I smell gas on mine (inside) after a fill up because the tank gasket is bad. If you’re smelling it at the engine you could try to lean out your your idle jet screw. Turn them to the right, until the engine stumbles, then back left a quarter turn.
I just bolded that empi kit on mi 1600 vw with I think same fuel pump
I have read lot of info about over fuel issues caused by high pressure of the mechanic pump
I usually use an OTC gauge and just as you said, once I got a read then another
I added some gaskets under the fuel pump to reduce pressure because I don’t want my needle valves to be worn so that your carbs will never shut off
Wanted to buy y those cheap regulator but as u say in the comments there is a lot of issues if u don’t buy an expensive one
My question is
Haven’t you have any over fuel issues ?
Like the carbs are always dropping gasoline ???
Recently I read 2.5 psi at the inlet of the carb with the gaskets I just told you
Coincidentally, I’m uploading a vid right now that shows how over fueling from an electric pump invaded my carburetors. I don’t use the mechanical pumps anymore, but even those pump way too high pressure. The solution for me is a fuel regulator. I’m using a cheaper regulator right now, but it’s working, until I get a good one.
I know this is old but do you think the empi 34's are worth it. I have a stock 1600 with tri mil exhaust. How are these compared to going with 40's 2 barrels?
I’ll give my OPINION. I’m not a fan of
over-carbing an engine because you often end up jetting them way down and have tuning frustrations. However, 40’s would technically run the engine, but too much air intake from the carbs just seems to confuse the valve train. Basically, with 40’s, and enough wizardry and patience you can get them to work on a 1600, and you WILL FEEL the extra grunt. Another downside is that I personally haven’t met an EMPI 40 that doesn’t leak from the valley plugs. I don’t think I need 40’s until I’m running over 1800cc engine.
I currently run dual 34’s on my 1800 in my bug and it walks pretty fast, gets good gas mileage, and is easy to tune. Plus I’ve never seems EMPI 34’s leak from galley plugs. It is imperative though that you replace the Empi hardware with the redline Weber hardware in the carb (needle, seat, washer) etc. I made a vid on that too.
Now in a BUS with a 1600, you want bottom end torque, Which I believe over-carving robs you of anyway.
You can get 40’s, but I wouldn’t get Empi because the like I said (maybe it’s just my experience) everyone I’ve seen has leaked. Then you can pay your hard earned dues tuning them, lose bottom end, but gain top end.
Only downside to 34’s period is that the single throats don’t evenly feed the cylinders at idle, and no doubt that on throat per cylinder is optimal. But for less than 1800cc engine, the single throats feed the cylinders good enough, that if you’re properly tuned, then it doesn’t wobble at idle. I posted a instagram vid of a beer bottle literally sitting on top of my carb at idle without falling off, and to this day that engine is completely still at idle (with 34’s). The only effect of the single throat 34’s is that if I pull the plugs, the #1 and #3 will have a smidge more smut on them from being richer at idle than the 2 & 4 cylinders. No problem because I keep my plugs clean anyway and TO ME it’s worth it.
Hope this helps, good luck, and stay dubbin.🤙🏼