I salute you sir! In 35 years of fucking about with shitters I have NEVER had a hard line to flexi union come undone like that! Well done indeed. Tidy repair is that. 👍
Great timing! Will be replacing the brake cylinders tomorrow on my wife's car. Mine also need a bit of a pipe work repair, but that will be for another weekend.
Brake fluid running down your arm? YES! Just a little FYI for anyone reading this, I was always told to double flare (make a male end first and then re-flare it to turn it into a female end) when making the female end of the join because single flaring makes the metal thinner and a weak point. That info also came from a guy that made plant hydraulic pipes/hoses for a living. And here's a useful tip: keeping the brake pedal slightly depressed stops the fluid from dripping everywhere.
Yea double flaring on steel but copper should be fine without it. I meant to mention the clingfilm trick over the master cylinder to stop the fluid running out but I didn’t have any cling film and forgot to mention it lol
@@AC-um2mk sorry I worded it wrong. When doing a female end, double flare it on the copper to make it thicker as copper is more ductile and can handle the process. If you double flare steel, it can make it crack
Class, what a result! Need to find my flaring kit now which I've probably lent to a mate a few years back so that I'll need to buy a new one. Your bleed method is also CLASS - I always thought you needed to crank the bleed nipple up after every press of the pedal but it looks like you don't using your method so I won't need to buy one of those Easy Bleed kits or kidnap a neighbour. Big thanks and muchos respectos!
Haha the method is just something I’ve come up with myself over the years, I use it a lot on bikes at work when flushing old fluid out on a service. It’s a good way to move a lot of fluid through the system quickly. I forgot to mention that usually before putting the female flare on the pipe you put an olive on first. This was my first go at flaring steel pipe and I was told off another mechanic just to single flare the steel pipe when joining, seems to have worked ok anyway 🤣
A way to stop fluid, is top the bottle right up to the brim, then with a rubber glove, use the flat side to use as a suction on the bottle, this will not alow the fluid to draw out. It has to be flat on flat to stop it flowing. I hope this will help.
Yea cause a vacuum in the reservoir. Cling film under the lid does same thing. I didn’t have any cling film and couldn’t be bothered to go back inside to find anything to do it at the time. Basically I forgot to do it 😂
Great video mate, I've just done the 15 year old brake caliper rubber pipes on our Honda, the union's were fucked a small wire brush and some GT85 penetration fluid and we were cooking on gas 👍
That's a handy kit.. as far as I can remember (from the rare occasion I read some instructions.. ) they say to end up with the "female flare", you do the single flare operation first "Op1" then turn the die bolt around to further form it with "Op2" (without removing the pipe). Be interesting to see the difference on a bit of pipe if you haven't given the tool back yet.
That’s what I used to go off for steel pipes but copper just in a single go. I could be wrong though cos it’s 15 years since I’ve made one tbh, but it seems to work well enough
Well done fella, usual other mechanic to suck eggs , but I just use a old plastic drink bottle with brake fluid half way up the bottle with rubber pipe submerged and put other end on opened brake nipple then pump pedal and wait till fresh fluid comes out and no more bubbles then line is bled , but that just the way I’ve done it being a mobile mechanic . Good job getting that rusty pipe union off - can be a nightmare mate , well done
I needed both sides doing in January. It's only the second time I've ever paid for a garage to do work. They ended up replacing the line from front to back as they struggled to flare the steel, which was my concern. Last thing I wanted to be messing about with in winter. If I'd seen this first I probably would have talked myself into giving it a go. Glad I didn't!
Haha, u simplefied this too much !! 20 mins to cut a brake line pissing fluid, making a new pipe, fitting it ehhh, no, thats serious shit ! Ive been there its not easy !! So well done, otra vez !
*Top Tip:* Before disconnecting hydraulic pipes prop the brake pedal down, it will close off the reservoir. PS. The syringe method looks like fun, I think I might give it a go 🙂
I had a line blowout on my Chevy Silverado 2500HD. all the lines were in bad shape, So I bought a complete prebent line kit from NAPA. Dealer wanted $2400 to do it. It cost me 180 for all new stainless steel lines. It took me 2.5 days of tearing out one line at a time, then putting a new one in place. General rule is that if one pops, other soon will follow.
Great informative and 'down to earth' video on how to go about it. I have to try this on a rather more exotic turd, a 2003 BMW M3 Convertible, which has the notorious awkward rear brake pipe corrosion, and very little space to attempt a fix. I've given myself the luxury of soaking the brake unions in penetrating oil overnight though! I still prefer the good old milk-bottle method for brake bleeding (simply because you can easily see what's going on), but the syringe idea is an interesting way of doing it.
@@FMFGUF the brake pipes that run over the tank? Those failed on mine too, but I paid someone else to do those as I really didn’t wanna do them 🤣 The syringe method has never let me down, but I’m actually in the process of making a video changing the fluid on my e46 using TOPDON diag to bleed it through. It will be a couple of weeks before it’s released though.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Yes, the inner one that runs over the fuel tank, on the nearside rear. There is a union near the fuel tank that can hopefully be undone, and it looks like there is just enough room to get flaring tools in where it bends around to go under the floorpan in front of the nearside rear wheel though, so I'll give that a go...
@@FMFGUFLiterally have the exact same issue on my m3 right now, I’m contemplating just buying original lines or just cut the part which is leaking out and joining until I have more motivation.
@@rabmc I fixed mine by just cutting out a 10" section and making a repair with a £20 pipe & flaring kit from E-bay; first time I've ever made a brake pipe but it works OK.
Thank you for video informative and funny as always, when I do any work on the hydraulic system I put some cling film under the master cylinder cap and screw it down this usually stops/slow down the fluid leaking? Keep up the good work always look forward to your videos.
brilliant you made it look so easy ,,i remember doing brake pipes on my old viva 40 odd years back ,,had to keep running back and forward to shop to get new pipes made when i made an arse of it ,,,where did you get the little heat gun ,,?
Cheers mate. The tool to do them on the car and to join them to steel is a game changer. The little blow lamp is a Snap-on one I got off the rape van a few years ago but it’s a good bit of kit tbh. Fills up with lighter gas but does actually give a usable amount of heat out
Reminds me i was going to ask your opinion on a debated topic. Brake fluid changes. A few years ago i had a Renault Clio that was only a few years old and the stealership said oh you have to do a brake fluid change after 3 years. Needless to say i told them to do one as how can a closed system absorbed so much water after 3 years right? So how long would you say like every 5-6 years or longer maybe?
A lot of dealers recommend it to be changed pretty often but once cars are out of warranty it’s something that seems to get left tbh. I’ve heard a lot of dealerships just suck the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it too without flushing it through. We do it on bikes during a service a lot of the time at work, but we do flush new all the way. Most cars beyond a few years old only seem to get it changed when components like pipes are changed and it doesn’t seem to cause issues. It’s a sealed system but the fluid does go through heat cycles and get shit into it from rubber seals etc. properly flushing the fluid is a job I’ve got planned for a future video. As long as the nipples come undone it’s easy enough to do. I intend to see if it makes any difference to the feel of the brakes, but I suspect it won’t 🤷♀️
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I've heard that as well about the dealers. I bought one of those gadgets where it sucks the crap fluid out of the bleed nipple side and puts it into a small pot really handy for the job and only £20 off amazon. Needless to say i did the job myself when the brakes needed doing 2 birds one stone. It didn't make a difference for me see if it makes any different in your vehicle. Oh and keep up the vids make me laugh every time. 👍
A Gem perfect timing , Ive an mot next month and some of my rear pipe is a bit pitted ,, I thought it was an age thing ,, its not pretty , but its not leaking yet . and . The brake pipes on my car arent great either
Hi, please i need advice I am a Citybug (C1) owner myself. I experience horrible gas milage recently. (about 37mpg !!) I changed the MAP, sparkplugs, crankshaft sensor, watercoolant thermometer, throttle valve, lambda sensor, catalytic converter, tried injektor cleaner but NOTHING works. The OBD shows no errors. I experience some engine rattling when it´s cold - maybe the timing chain or the valves? do you have ANY idea? Thank you!
Hi mate. Are you doing short journeys? Cold weather and short journeys kills mpg, also driving style is probably the biggest contributing factor. If it’s running well then other than that check tyre pressures and for binding brakes? I get less mpg than that, but my car is modified
Also are you working it out to UK gallon and not US gallons aren’t you? If you’re working it to US gallon then you’re getting more like 42mpg in UK gallons
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Thank you very much for your reply mate. It´s indeed UK gallons. 7.6 Liters / 100km I rarely make short journeys and the gas mileage is about the same in winter/summertime (maybe about 0.5L less in Summer) I always check for inflated tires or binding brakes and i am really trying to hypermile that car! So no "digital" acceleration like you used to say. This really really bugs me, since the normal mileage for the c1 should be around 5.6L or 50mpg uk
@@PhoticSneezeOne in the real world about 43-45 is probably more realistic in real world scenario. There are a lot of factors that can impact mpg but the pre-cat lambda can throw the mixture off if that’s faulty
If it helps ... I recently got about 374 miles from full to beeping on a mixture of maybe 80% long distance and 20% around town. Not sure what that works out as MPG as I don't know what the tank size is ... can anyone shed light ... I'm thinking around 35 litres from full to beeping? Anyway, what is the deal with getting 100 miles or more for the first block of the fuel gauge and only 374 miles for 5 blocks? 😂
The flaring tool has a bolt which goes into the end then you tighten up the bolt, ouch the pipe to the bolt, and tighten the two bolts on the side that clamps it together, then take the stopper bolt out and double flare the pipe, dipping the tool into brake grease ua-cam.com/video/5zXhUbvP0vE/v-deo.htmlsi=vKcALoPCeKWu0Swg
great video , mine just failed on this exact thing. i watched this and got that tool off ebay as euro parts were telling me i had to buy the whole pipe,, its really long on these ! i got to ask though how did you get the pipe out the tool thing as it looked like it was gonna snap or bend :) thanks for video , really helpful
Thanks I've been looking at replacing my rear brake pipe but doing it differently. I'm reusing the original male connectors and putting copper brake pipe from wheel cylinder to female connector on the original long back to front main brake pipe to save cutting it what do you think is this possible?
@@timhipkins912 there is a rubber pipe between the long pipe and the wheel cylinder which you’ll have to keep. I’d get nee make fittings if you can. I have reused them in the past when I’ve not had any but it’s not worth it if you can avoid it
Looks like an SAE Flare tool. Each flare should be made using both ends of flare tool insert in sequence and a 3 piece joiner used and not a male fitting and a female fitting as shown.
There is no issue with using the fitting shown, it’s just a different way of doing it and takes less room. You don’t double flare on the steel as it is likely to split.
The flare tool was SAE and SAE flares must always double flares on all brake pipes whether cupro nickel or steel. For European carrs like the one shown the flares are DIN using a DIN flare tool. In addition, a DIN flare , sometimes called a bubble flare should have been used to connect into the original fitting. No safe way to make a pipe connection using only a male fitting and a female fitting. Couldn't see on the video if it was SAE or DIN fittings being used in lieu of a proper connector. Huge amount of correct information available online.
@@brianmcguckin66 when connecting copper to steel, this is the way that a lot of garages do it. If there was an issue with the flare then it simply wouldn’t have sealed when it was installed.
@@brianmcguckin66hi, you seem to know what you're talking about! There's so LITTLE info out there that isn't misleading or plain innacurate. Mostly youtube guides ignore the SAE/DIN issue or are vague about it.... , and most flaring tools on the Internet seem to be SAE. Appreciate your comment.. 👍
In a front of handbrake lines is air deflector. Can You make video how to lift up lines, that we will not need this deflector (cover) - for better aerodynamics :D :D
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yep, I think I will mount big flat plastic cover under engine from scrapyard (for example from Octavia TDI) this can be also good topic for material
i cant seem to see the best way to join 2 lines... do i double flare both ends (as many do in videos) and join with male and female connector.. or double flare one end and bubble flare the other and join these 2 with male and female connector or a double female connector in middle with 2 male connectors on the flares... every of the 30 videos i watched does it different 😅😂
There’s more than one way to do it, the way I’ve done it here is single female flare as it’s steel pipe. If you double flare it then it can split, but copper female flares should be doubled
From what I've read, you must use an 'mot joiner' which is a double female sleeve, into which go the 2 male connectors. Apparently an mot fail any other way. However, saying that, my Mk3 Mondeo with original steel pipes appears to be jointed using a male into a female, so maybe a recent change in the regulations.
Nothing related to brakes but the front of my Aygo isnt look so pretty anymore (some could say it never was) but...if I wanted to buy new bonnet, bumper and stuff from the UK its going to cost a lot. Luckily the Chinese ripped off these cars as the BYD F0 (formally the F1) and the body panel parts for that thing are a lot cheaper. Of course its going to completely change the way the front end looks but at this stage who cares.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I've not tried but visually some look identical. And they are a lot cheaper, you just have to get them from places like Alibaba and aliexpress
@@davyarthurs oh yea this vid was filmed about a month ago or more. Was a pain in the arse to get through test. Has to borrow a cat cos nobody will do a decat MOT anymore but can’t blame them really. There is an upcoming video where I do a proper bodge to get the shitter through though 🤣
I salute you sir! In 35 years of fucking about with shitters I have NEVER had a hard line to flexi union come undone like that! Well done indeed. Tidy repair is that. 👍
Cheers mate. Do it this way next time and it should come undone for you too!
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 👍
You have been very lucky with youre shitters I had a Scottish mazda 2 shitter and the brake lines gave up been there making new pipes for a shitter
Great timing! Will be replacing the brake cylinders tomorrow on my wife's car. Mine also need a bit of a pipe work repair, but that will be for another weekend.
That tighten up the bolt trick works a treat becuase i have used that meany of times grate video mate as always keep it up.
It’s a decent trick, I use it a lot and thanks mate
Brake fluid running down your arm? YES!
Just a little FYI for anyone reading this, I was always told to double flare (make a male end first and then re-flare it to turn it into a female end) when making the female end of the join because single flaring makes the metal thinner and a weak point. That info also came from a guy that made plant hydraulic pipes/hoses for a living.
And here's a useful tip: keeping the brake pedal slightly depressed stops the fluid from dripping everywhere.
Yea double flaring on steel but copper should be fine without it. I meant to mention the clingfilm trick over the master cylinder to stop the fluid running out but I didn’t have any cling film and forgot to mention it lol
Could you please explain a little more? It sounds like you are saying double flaring makes it weaker and that weaker is desirable.
@@AC-um2mk sorry I worded it wrong. When doing a female end, double flare it on the copper to make it thicker as copper is more ductile and can handle the process. If you double flare steel, it can make it crack
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Cool, makes sense now 👍
Class, what a result! Need to find my flaring kit now which I've probably lent to a mate a few years back so that I'll need to buy a new one. Your bleed method is also CLASS - I always thought you needed to crank the bleed nipple up after every press of the pedal but it looks like you don't using your method so I won't need to buy one of those Easy Bleed kits or kidnap a neighbour. Big thanks and muchos respectos!
Haha the method is just something I’ve come up with myself over the years, I use it a lot on bikes at work when flushing old fluid out on a service. It’s a good way to move a lot of fluid through the system quickly. I forgot to mention that usually before putting the female flare on the pipe you put an olive on first. This was my first go at flaring steel pipe and I was told off another mechanic just to single flare the steel pipe when joining, seems to have worked ok anyway 🤣
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Looks good to me!
A way to stop fluid, is top the bottle right up to the brim, then with a rubber glove, use the flat side to use as a suction on the bottle, this will not alow the fluid to draw out. It has to be flat on flat to stop it flowing. I hope this will help.
Yea cause a vacuum in the reservoir. Cling film under the lid does same thing. I didn’t have any cling film and couldn’t be bothered to go back inside to find anything to do it at the time. Basically I forgot to do it 😂
You can also just secure the brake pedal in the fully depressed position which closes off the flow from the master cylinder.
I was number 107 0n the likes ...Spooky for all you Peugot owners ! ( i have an Aygo ) another great video ! keep 'em coming fella !
Nice. I dunno what’s more surprising. Being like number 107, or one of my videos actually reaching 107 likes 🤣
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos loads of views !
Cracking video straight to the point. Cheers mate 👍
Thanks for watching
Yet another brilliant and enjoyable video that car will fly through its MOT it just won't die lol
It’s already got through about 3 more than I expected it to 😂
Great video mate, I've just done the 15 year old brake caliper rubber pipes on our Honda, the union's were fucked a small wire brush and some GT85 penetration fluid and we were cooking on gas 👍
Good stuff. They’re always the fucking same!
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos the UK roads with the wet and salt are marvellous places for cars
That's a handy kit.. as far as I can remember (from the rare occasion I read some instructions.. ) they say to end up with the "female flare", you do the single flare operation first "Op1" then turn the die bolt around to further form it with "Op2" (without removing the pipe). Be interesting to see the difference on a bit of pipe if you haven't given the tool back yet.
That’s what I used to go off for steel pipes but copper just in a single go. I could be wrong though cos it’s 15 years since I’ve made one tbh, but it seems to work well enough
This is going to be invaluable. 93 Lincoln town car with rotted lines, and it's been oil sprayed every year.... wish me luck lol.
Good luck bro 😎
Another great video,I don’t bother using clingfilm over the master cylinder,I use a latex glove!
Cheers mate. I usually find a used condom on the ground but I couldn’t find any lying around on the street that day
Beast!!!😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Literally lol'ing 🤣😂🤣
Well done fella, usual other mechanic to suck eggs , but I just use a old plastic drink bottle with brake fluid half way up the bottle with rubber pipe submerged and put other end on opened brake nipple then pump pedal and wait till fresh fluid comes out and no more bubbles then line is bled , but that just the way I’ve done it being a mobile mechanic . Good job getting that rusty pipe union off - can be a nightmare mate , well done
Thanks mate. Yea that’s the old school bit of pipe and a milk bottle trick. This method is just my own version of that one tbh
Well no words are needed on this video.......
❤️
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I needed both sides doing in January. It's only the second time I've ever paid for a garage to do work. They ended up replacing the line from front to back as they struggled to flare the steel, which was my concern. Last thing I wanted to be messing about with in winter. If I'd seen this first I probably would have talked myself into giving it a go. Glad I didn't!
A lot of tools won’t flare the steel pipes, but being able to join them makes all the difference
Haha, u simplefied this too much !! 20 mins to cut a brake line pissing fluid, making a new pipe, fitting it ehhh, no, thats serious shit !
Ive been there its not easy !!
So well done, otra vez !
Thanks mate. This tool does make them so much easier though
*Top Tip:*
Before disconnecting hydraulic pipes prop the brake pedal down, it will close off the reservoir.
PS. The syringe method looks like fun, I think I might give it a go 🙂
Syringe method works great. I always do it and it’s never failed me. I used it in another video recently when changing a Movano rear calliper
I had a line blowout on my Chevy Silverado 2500HD. all the lines were in bad shape, So I bought a complete prebent line kit from NAPA. Dealer wanted $2400 to do it. It cost me 180 for all new stainless steel lines. It took me 2.5 days of tearing out one line at a time, then putting a new one in place. General rule is that if one pops, other soon will follow.
Great informative and 'down to earth' video on how to go about it. I have to try this on a rather more exotic turd, a 2003 BMW M3 Convertible, which has the notorious awkward rear brake pipe corrosion, and very little space to attempt a fix. I've given myself the luxury of soaking the brake unions in penetrating oil overnight though! I still prefer the good old milk-bottle method for brake bleeding (simply because you can easily see what's going on), but the syringe idea is an interesting way of doing it.
@@FMFGUF the brake pipes that run over the tank? Those failed on mine too, but I paid someone else to do those as I really didn’t wanna do them 🤣
The syringe method has never let me down, but I’m actually in the process of making a video changing the fluid on my e46 using TOPDON diag to bleed it through. It will be a couple of weeks before it’s released though.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Yes, the inner one that runs over the fuel tank, on the nearside rear. There is a union near the fuel tank that can hopefully be undone, and it looks like there is just enough room to get flaring tools in where it bends around to go under the floorpan in front of the nearside rear wheel though, so I'll give that a go...
@@FMFGUF I think that’s how the bloke did mine. Just fed them over the tank and cut and joined
@@FMFGUFLiterally have the exact same issue on my m3 right now, I’m contemplating just buying original lines or just cut the part which is leaking out and joining until I have more motivation.
@@rabmc I fixed mine by just cutting out a 10" section and making a repair with a £20 pipe & flaring kit from E-bay; first time I've ever made a brake pipe but it works OK.
great job,think now is the time to swap C1's with the Mrs's
I probably should, but hers is probably full of all sorts of weird spores and shit 😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 🤣😂🤣😂
Thank you for video informative and funny as always, when I do any work on the hydraulic system I put some cling film under the master cylinder cap and screw it down this usually stops/slow down the fluid leaking? Keep up the good work always look forward to your videos.
Cheers mate. I meant to mention the cling film trick but didn’t have any at the time so didn’t do it, so forgot to say about it 🤦♀️
brilliant you made it look so easy ,,i remember doing brake pipes on my old viva 40 odd years back ,,had to keep running back and forward to shop to get new pipes made when i made an arse of it ,,,where did you get the little heat gun ,,?
Cheers mate. The tool to do them on the car and to join them to steel is a game changer. The little blow lamp is a Snap-on one I got off the rape van a few years ago but it’s a good bit of kit tbh. Fills up with lighter gas but does actually give a usable amount of heat out
Great and really useful video! Cheers!
Thanks mate!
Top video mate 👍very helpful and informative
Thanks mate
Common problem on these, mine failed too, replaced from the flexi hose up to the front, just eliminates any further corrosion later on.
I’ll just keep replacing mine in 2” sections until I’ve done the whole thing 😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 🤣😂🤣
Reminds me i was going to ask your opinion on a debated topic. Brake fluid changes. A few years ago i had a Renault Clio that was only a few years old and the stealership said oh you have to do a brake fluid change after 3 years. Needless to say i told them to do one as how can a closed system absorbed so much water after 3 years right? So how long would you say like every 5-6 years or longer maybe?
A lot of dealers recommend it to be changed pretty often but once cars are out of warranty it’s something that seems to get left tbh. I’ve heard a lot of dealerships just suck the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it too without flushing it through. We do it on bikes during a service a lot of the time at work, but we do flush new all the way. Most cars beyond a few years old only seem to get it changed when components like pipes are changed and it doesn’t seem to cause issues. It’s a sealed system but the fluid does go through heat cycles and get shit into it from rubber seals etc. properly flushing the fluid is a job I’ve got planned for a future video. As long as the nipples come undone it’s easy enough to do. I intend to see if it makes any difference to the feel of the brakes, but I suspect it won’t 🤷♀️
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I've heard that as well about the dealers. I bought one of those gadgets where it sucks the crap fluid out of the bleed nipple side and puts it into a small pot really handy for the job and only £20 off amazon. Needless to say i did the job myself when the brakes needed doing 2 birds one stone. It didn't make a difference for me see if it makes any different in your vehicle. Oh and keep up the vids make me laugh every time. 👍
@@daggers88 I’ve got one of those kits at work but usually just use the syringe method I show here, and thanks mate 🤣
if you buy one its DIN flares on these no SAE , that kit is missing a threaded stop you put in ...push up the pipe and lock it against the stop
I borrowed it off a mate so it’s not new and could have a bit missing I suppose, but just used my judgment and the flares came out well enough
What a professional answer....
A Gem perfect timing , Ive an mot next month and some of my rear pipe is a bit pitted ,, I thought it was an age thing ,, its not pretty , but its not leaking yet .
and
.
The brake pipes on my car arent great either
Sweet. Hope it helps pal
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos lol ,,,,, read it again ,,, slowly .. but many thanks
@@tomthompson7400 ffs 🤦♀️ 😂
Hi, please i need advice
I am a Citybug (C1) owner myself. I experience horrible gas milage recently. (about 37mpg !!)
I changed the MAP, sparkplugs, crankshaft sensor, watercoolant thermometer, throttle valve, lambda sensor, catalytic converter,
tried injektor cleaner but NOTHING works. The OBD shows no errors.
I experience some engine rattling when it´s cold - maybe the timing chain or the valves?
do you have ANY idea? Thank you!
Hi mate. Are you doing short journeys? Cold weather and short journeys kills mpg, also driving style is probably the biggest contributing factor. If it’s running well then other than that check tyre pressures and for binding brakes? I get less mpg than that, but my car is modified
Also are you working it out to UK gallon and not US gallons aren’t you? If you’re working it to US gallon then you’re getting more like 42mpg in UK gallons
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Thank you very much for your reply mate.
It´s indeed UK gallons. 7.6 Liters / 100km
I rarely make short journeys and the gas mileage is about the same in winter/summertime (maybe about 0.5L less in Summer)
I always check for inflated tires or binding brakes and i am really trying to hypermile that car! So no "digital" acceleration like you used to say.
This really really bugs me, since the normal mileage for the c1 should be around 5.6L or 50mpg uk
@@PhoticSneezeOne in the real world about 43-45 is probably more realistic in real world scenario. There are a lot of factors that can impact mpg but the pre-cat lambda can throw the mixture off if that’s faulty
If it helps ... I recently got about 374 miles from full to beeping on a mixture of maybe 80% long distance and 20% around town. Not sure what that works out as MPG as I don't know what the tank size is ... can anyone shed light ... I'm thinking around 35 litres from full to beeping? Anyway, what is the deal with getting 100 miles or more for the first block of the fuel gauge and only 374 miles for 5 blocks? 😂
The flaring tool has a bolt which goes into the end then you tighten up the bolt, ouch the pipe to the bolt, and tighten the two bolts on the side that clamps it together, then take the stopper bolt out and double flare the pipe, dipping the tool into brake grease
ua-cam.com/video/5zXhUbvP0vE/v-deo.htmlsi=vKcALoPCeKWu0Swg
It should have, but this one was missing so had to judge where how far in the pipe goes before clamping it.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos the manufacturer might have a spare stopper nut, or size could be on the Internet
Little bit of electricians tape about an inch down the pipe will stop it from pushing back when flaring in the future 👍🏼
I used to use sandpaper on the old vice mounted one I used to use many years ago, but this seemed to grip it really solidly without help
My shitter must be worn out 😅👍🏼
@@Slo_Rocco valve grinding paste works well too
super helpful thank you
Glad it helped, thanks for watching
great video , mine just failed on this exact thing. i watched this and got that tool off ebay as euro parts were telling me i had to buy the whole pipe,, its really long on these ! i got to ask though how did you get the pipe out the tool thing as it looked like it was gonna snap or bend :) thanks for video , really helpful
Cheers mate. I just pulled it out but without being too harsh with it.
Hi Tim hope you are well, what size pipe and fittings did you use and where did you get them. Thanks.
Hi mate. The pipe is standard common size. 3/16 I think. The fittings I’m not sure but 3/8 rings a bell 🤔
Thanks I've been looking at replacing my rear brake pipe but doing it differently. I'm reusing the original male connectors and putting copper brake pipe from wheel cylinder to female connector on the original long back to front main brake pipe to save cutting it what do you think is this possible?
@@timhipkins912 there is a rubber pipe between the long pipe and the wheel cylinder which you’ll have to keep. I’d get nee make fittings if you can. I have reused them in the past when I’ve not had any but it’s not worth it if you can avoid it
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Thanks for the advice I was in two minds, Thanks again for all the videos I've gained so much information from them.
Decent, Thanks was helpful
Thanks mate
Is this a hard job to do? My c1 is currently having it done!!
@@EbonyFoster-b7o not so much hard, but can be time consuming depending where the pipes are etc
You could also pull the brake fluid thru the system with that syringe
Sometimes that works, often it will draw air in where the rubber pipe attaches to the nipple instead.
Brilliant , fuckin love these videos , best on utube
@@BobMac-n7l thanks mate, happy to hear that at least someone likes them! 🤣
Good video
Thanks mate
...You Legend !!!
@@VID-KIDZ thanks!
Looks like an SAE Flare tool. Each flare should be made using both ends of flare tool insert in sequence and a 3 piece joiner used and not a male fitting and a female fitting as shown.
There is no issue with using the fitting shown, it’s just a different way of doing it and takes less room. You don’t double flare on the steel as it is likely to split.
The flare tool was SAE and SAE flares must always double flares on all brake pipes whether cupro nickel or steel. For European carrs like the one shown the flares are DIN using a DIN flare tool. In addition, a DIN flare , sometimes called a bubble flare should have been used to connect into the original fitting. No safe way to make a pipe connection using only a male fitting and a female fitting. Couldn't see on the video if it was SAE or DIN fittings being used in lieu of a proper connector. Huge amount of correct information available online.
@@brianmcguckin66 when connecting copper to steel, this is the way that a lot of garages do it. If there was an issue with the flare then it simply wouldn’t have sealed when it was installed.
@@brianmcguckin66hi, you seem to know what you're talking about! There's so LITTLE info out there that isn't misleading or plain innacurate. Mostly youtube guides ignore the SAE/DIN issue or are vague about it.... , and most flaring tools on the Internet seem to be SAE. Appreciate your comment.. 👍
Pissing fluid all down the sleeve, Been there done that, but surly you don't need brakes with that huge wing anyway
Maybe I should motorise the wing so it becomes an air brake like on a Veyron 🤔
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I'd love to see that! 😂
Don't call him surly (Airplane movie joke) 😂
@@AC-um2mk mint fiiiiilm 😂
In a front of handbrake lines is air deflector. Can You make video how to lift up lines, that we will not need this deflector (cover) - for better aerodynamics :D :D
All about those ground effects 👌
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yep, I think I will mount big flat plastic cover under engine from scrapyard (for example from Octavia TDI) this can be also good topic for material
So your mate didn’t give you the pipe setting bolt. Takes the guesswork out of how far to push the pipe in
Yea that was missing unfortunately, so I had to judge it by eye and guesswork 😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 👍
i cant seem to see the best way to join 2 lines... do i double flare both ends (as many do in videos) and join with male and female connector.. or double flare one end and bubble flare the other and join these 2 with male and female connector or a double female connector in middle with 2 male connectors on the flares... every of the 30 videos i watched does it different 😅😂
There’s more than one way to do it, the way I’ve done it here is single female flare as it’s steel pipe. If you double flare it then it can split, but copper female flares should be doubled
From what I've read, you must use an 'mot joiner' which is a double female sleeve, into which go the 2 male connectors. Apparently an mot fail any other way. However, saying that, my Mk3 Mondeo with original steel pipes appears to be jointed using a male into a female, so maybe a recent change in the regulations.
Nothing related to brakes but the front of my Aygo isnt look so pretty anymore (some could say it never was) but...if I wanted to buy new bonnet, bumper and stuff from the UK its going to cost a lot. Luckily the Chinese ripped off these cars as the BYD F0 (formally the F1) and the body panel parts for that thing are a lot cheaper. Of course its going to completely change the way the front end looks but at this stage who cares.
I’ve heard of the BYD before. Wonder if the parts are actually a direct fit 🤔
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I've not tried but visually some look identical. And they are a lot cheaper, you just have to get them from places like Alibaba and aliexpress
@@firefly2k7uk let me know if you do it
But in light of the fact you were on the shitter and not your silly E45, not a bad watch 👍
Cheers G
Can go onto the e46 next week if you like though?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos am good thanks 👍
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos just class Sir 🎩
Press brake pedal 1/4 way in and fluid stop flowing
What you mean?
Is that a Salford accent ?
@@bigjam8429 most certainly not 😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 🤣
@@bigjam8429 I grew up on the right side of Rochdale in a nice village called Smithybridge, but now I live in Chadderton.
Is that a single flare?
Single flare on the steel else it splits
Put cling film on reservoir top, it stops fluid flowing 🧐😁
I’ve done that before. It does actually work too
Also holding the brake pedal down will stop the master cylinder running dry too 😄. Anyways back to the serious stuff😂 : 🦶🚰🎉
I remembered the 🦶🚰 in this one 😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos sure did 😂 world is once again a better place 😝. Hope she gets through the MOT ok now
@@davyarthurs oh yea this vid was filmed about a month ago or more. Was a pain in the arse to get through test. Has to borrow a cat cos nobody will do a decat MOT anymore but can’t blame them really. There is an upcoming video where I do a proper bodge to get the shitter through though 🤣
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos glad u managed to get it through, even if was a bit of a mission! Look forward to that video! YES!
@@davyarthurs I’m kind of embarrassed by what I did, but fuck it… I’ll release it anyway 😂😂😂😂