How to safely repair leaking and rusted brake lines
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- Опубліковано 25 кві 2016
- Did you lose brake pressure? Are your brake lines rusted? If so, this video will show you how to deal with rusted, corroded or damaged brake lines by installing a union.
When it comes to brakes, it can get expensive quickly! You might consider repairing your own brake lines but are afraid that you'll compromise your vehicle's safety. No need to worry. This video will take you through all the steps necessary to perform the repair easily and safely. It's as easy as replacing brake pads.
The parts used in this video can be found at your local auto parts store. Just ask the clerk for the proper size of union for your vehicle.
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Disclaimer:
Due to unforeseen factors beyond the control of SuperSpeakers, it cannot guarantee that the information provided here has not been modified or altered in any way, shape or form. SuperSpeakers does not assume liability for any injury or property damage incurred as a result of the information contained in this video. The information contained in this video does not express or imply any warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any loss, damage or injury incurred as a result of the tools, equipment or information provided in this video is the sole responsibility of the user. - Авто та транспорт
In answer to a bunch of the statements below...not everyone has the money to run out and buy new brake lines. Or maybe you need to get your vehicle back up and running quickly until you have time to do the whole replacement. Thats my situation. No time. I need my brakes to work NOW to get to work! New brake line kits are ordered and on the way. Until I have the time to do the job, they will sit in the box.
HELL YA
... INDEED. Not to mention if you're working outside in asshole deep snow, and PRAYING the rest of the fittings will come off. MENTAL NOTE: Buy stock in PB BLASTER. And COMPRESSION FITTINGS? Hell, they may be illegal in some states, but I've used them in a pinch with NO PROBLEMS as long as it's done right, prep work is VITAL to this application. We have all these DYI vids on YT that may BE very informative, but unless you do it right ... it makes no difference. If you are a DIY person, take the time to do it right, ... SLOW IS FAST.
The only thing I see is a 5 dollar line that’s full of scale so the line is obviously thin in places rust is a layer of metal so I don’t see taking a piece of sand paper or scotch brute to sand down a line I don’t think you have to replace the whole thing but why bother with old scales line wen you can buy the ones with fittings and all flared for next to nothing thers a lot of pressure in them lines it takes nothing for rusted lines to blow if you want to get it back up and quickly the size of the line you wer fixing you could have bought for 5 bucks fitting and flared I’m sure you have 5 bucks I don’t put rusted line back on ther could be pin holes in them that’s all
@@jeffleblanc8850 True enough, if you got the damn thing off, you can get it back on. If you don't have five bux, where the fuck you need to be anyway?
Well done SAID, Get her done!
I've watched a number of videos on repairing brake lines now, and yours is the only one I finished. Outstanding! Now I'm ready to fix my brakes. Thank you!
OMG! Great video but if you've pulled the brake line off, then BUY A NEW ONE! $25 IS ALL for a brand NEW ONE! C'mon! You'd be doing it anyway in a year if you've got that much rust on 1 part already. GIVE GOOD, THOROUGH info on the most important part of the car!
Taylor Mitchell hey dummy, you don’t think this was done as an example? OMG like chill out riiggghht!??
Nickel-Copper (NiCop) brake lines. Best stuff ever. Bend by hand, no kinks, double flares beautifully. More expensive but eliminates all frustration. Worth it.
Thanks!
Mar Blox 🤣👏🏾👏🏾
Couldn't agree more. I replaced every line on my 2500 suburban, pain in the ass, but alot easier with nicopp lines
@@markbelden6919 I love those old Suburbans. I used to have one. I also used to have 77 Chevy Blazer K5. Loved it! Built like a tank.
@@michiganmagneto mine defwasnt as cool as a '77, mine is a rust belt 2001, I do love her though,
Glad to see someone using the proper procedure for brake lines . I've had many arguments with people that have no idea what their doing using single flare, especially with aluminum lines used on small aircraft
watched a lot of videos on here as a novice,yours is the only 1 that shows how the copper union works,i was thinking it worked another way!,thanks again.
This is just the information I needed to tackle my burst brake line at my front passenger side of my Dakota. Appreciate the clear close-ups on the flaring details such as setting the line height in the anvil part the same as the thickest part of the die. thanks again.
Thank you so much for this. This made it super easy to understand the steps and proper way to fix a small section. I’m going to do this since the previous owner used a compression fitting, and like you said, when jamming the brakes hard, it made it leak. Appreciate your time in making this video!
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! My old truck is rusted from stem to stern underneath, and I blew a brake line bleeding the brakes after installing new pads, rotors and calipers. For $75 I got a full set of pre-bent brake lines, but some of them are too long, or bent in such a way you'd have to take out the gas tank, take out the radiator, remove front end parts- take the body off the frame almost to get these pre-bent lines in where I need them. Instead, I can cut the really oddly shaped ones in 2 pieces, slide them in from both ends and splice them in the middle. I don't want to use compression fittings for the reasons mentioned in the video, so yeah- this is exactly the tutorial I was looking for. Thanks!
The best video on this subject on youtube. Thanks man.
Thanks so much for an excellent tutorial video. I watched the video 3 times so I could remember the exact steps. It's not so complicated now after watching your video. Thumbs up!
Good video, you answered all my questions , I have a old truck and lost a line. Neighbor let me use his flare kit , had no idea how to use it. Plus the fact that you mentioned not to use compression fittings , which I use at work all the time . So Thank you for the video
Flares are better than compression rings. Always. Once you have the tool, it's just a matter of discipline to do the flares and that pays off after the first repair. Thanks for showing this so clearly!!
This is the most excellent video about how to repair brake lines in the right & safe way ,well done thank you very much
I've looked and studied your video. thank you very much for the information you have provided to some of us who have been in need of this type of information.
Thanks a lot, I needed this video today! Fixed my brakes, I cut off the pin hole area and re-flared the line. It works!
Wow One the best instructional videos I've Every Seen on You tube! . Excellent!!!!! take a bow.. even answered my question about the compression fittings and why that shouldn't be used for this application!!! Excellent thank you very much!
You explained it so well! And you saved me money! back to work:) Thanks!
very good demo of making brake line joins, thank you.
exactly what i needed. clear concise on point. this made my day.
Thank you. Very good video. Clear. Comprehensive. Easy to follow. Not too wordy.
Made sure you pointed out the pros and cons of the two types of fittings. I wish other's would make videos like yours. 👍
QA
excellent explanation of the topic at hand, including last but not least the critical distinctions between the two couplers... thank you for explaining these things and posting this video
perfect explanation, introduction , demonstration just keep going pal!
Excellent video I have learned a lot from this and will try this my self now. Thank you so much.
This video was spot on. You explained so clear
Thank you
Very informative thank you! I replaced the steel brake lines in my Silverado with the more flexible nickel copper lines, came in a kit so no flaring, but one of the lines got a hole cooked into it from the exhaust manifold(my dumb error) so now I need to cut out the bad section and perform the same procedure you did in the video. I appreciate the level of detail you took.
I've watched a lot of videos on this subject and yours was the best. Nicely filmed, stayed on topic and clearly explained what to do.
Thank you so much for this impressive explanation on fixing brake lines
I just replaced 2 lines on our old cavalier....On one I had to buy 2 pcs and tie together so I asked for a proper union. They brought me two compression fittings, which was nuts as the lines had 2 threaded ends and would have had to cut to use...to get a poor splice. Gotta love Advance Auto.....
Excellent video. Very clear & concise 👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks
I know the video is 5 years old but great info, thanks for making it.
Outstanding video, thanks for taking the time to show us how its done
Nice job, very professional and nice explanation. thank you.
OMG! Great video but if you've pulled the brake line off, then BUY A NEW ONE! $25 IS ALL for a brand NEW ONE! C'mon! You'd be doing it anyway in a year if you've got that much rust on 1 part already. GIVE GOOD, THOROUGH info on the most important part of the car!
Best video on this subject on UA-cam.
Great video ESPECIALLY the warning about compression fittings and the danger of using them.
Compression fittings are capable of withstanding 5000 psi way more than brake system will ever see.
@YUKI JINJUJI
IF it's done right AND with the right materials, which is often less than likely to happen.
They're fine. Never seen one fail. They always outlast the car
Outstanding video sir. I had to repair my 2004 Nissan Quest because the brake line rusted out just before the fitting that plugs into the flex hose going to the caliper. Replacing that whole line was not an option because it is behind everything including the intake manifold as it heads to the ABS unit on the passenger side. The line was in perfect condition inside the engine compartment, so using your guide, and a 20 dollar flaring kit from Amazon, I was able to replace a mere foot of line and I'm back on the road for a pittance. Thank you!
Fantastic! Thanks for watching.
thankyou that anwsered the question i had about the different connectors i know which ones ill be buying now
thanks again pal
Best explanation ive seen so far. Nice Job!
Stellar video.Very good explanations, thank you so much.
Excellant Video,,,I've done many Break jobs just to many to count,,,I think you can use any thing that works,,,If you take your time with patience you don't need to worry about safety.
Came to learn and I did THANK you Disc brakes, ABS, all good reasons not to use compression. They have higher pressures.
Overall this was a great video for a emergency situation however l didn't know compression fitting might come off--that part was very helpful to me...thanks
Love your detailed demonstration 👍
A great tutorial on brake line repair, I have been doing auto repair in New England for almost 50 years so have lots of experience with rusty brake lines. I would like to add use the copper/nichol brake tubing for replacement as it doesn't rust, is easier to cut and flare and very easy to bend by hand. I by it by the 25' roll so replace whole line instead or patching sections.
I'm in northern Michigan. We replace A LOT of brake lines. That copper nickel line is awesome to work with.
excellent video. Very clear explanation and lighting for visual repair work on line.
An excellent presentation using a non technical approach. Very clear explanation for each step and why the step is necessary..
WOW.. so clear and precise. Finally I'm confident I can do this job. Thank you so much!!!
Sounds good! Thanks!
Excellent explanations. Thank you.
Really is an excellent straight to the point tutorial.Anyone can do this with a little patience.And yes compression fittings are a BIG no-no....but if you have to,they will work temporarily in a pinch.And I mean temporary....be ready to pull the e brake when braking if you have a compression fitting being used temporary to get you home..
I’ll give you thumbs up 👍🏼 every second of your video!!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!!
Well explained and made video. Thank you.
Nice job! I definitely appreciate your interesting and informative video. Thank you sir!
Awesome video...well explained....much appreciate the advice at the end. Good Job!
Excellent video! Very well explained!
I really appreciate your thorough explanation of every detail involved. Particularly the information about the different type of fitting at the end, because in relation to my situation it let me know whether or not I can use the compression fitting on the job I'm doing. I'm fixing a leak in my fuel line and I wasn’t sure about the fitting that was supplied with my repair kit. I'm pretty sure it'll be ok since it's not under as high of pressure as a break line is. Anyway, thank you for your helpful video.
Great job! I would ony add that after deburring the inside of the line, tap it on a block of wood to dislodge any chips that may have dropped into the line.
Great instruction video! Thank you!
Excellent. Thank you!
This is an excellent description of technique, and I really like the way you had a go at why compression fittings are inappropriate for brake lines. Of course compression fittings are used all the time for water installations, but there are illegal for brake fittings for good reason. Part of the reason they are illegal is because they could be easily assembled incorrectly, with no early warning until it suddenly fails. If that ferrule is installed too close to the tip of the line on one side, it may not grip the line as well as it would normally. So, those who claim that a properly installed compression fitting works fine have some justification for that point of view. The problem is that it would be much easier to make a mistake, especially in a situation where the operator cuts the line a little too short and he is in a hurry to complete the task under the car. If the tip of each line is not properly jammed into each end of the fitting, or if it creeps back while it is being tightened down, the ferrule is incorrectly installed but it looks just fine from the outside. If he forgets to crank down one side, it may seem to work fine until the ferrule creeps back with time. A tech could do a thousand of those fittings and if one side of one fitting is bad, he's made a mistake that could cost a life. With no way to detect incorrect installation, the customer is left with a car that is a danger to others on the road when it suddenly fails. On the other hand a bad union will immediately leak, pointing to the need to fix it right away. Even influential internet 'experts' like Scotty Kilmer get this wrong, you can't trust everything you read on the net.
Be ready with the e brake when brakes fail....so it doesn't cost a life.
Just bought a car that had a compression fitting that failed. Gonna try a union fitting instead so I can get by before replacing all the lines. Thanks for sharing.
Great video , now i understand the double flare. Thanks!
Compression fittings are still in use and sold in auto stores. I've used them many times over the yrs and never had one come apart. I agree the double flare is better, but under the car is harder to maneuver. Thanks for sharing .
Nice job. Very concise and informative. Thank you 👍
Great video and very detailed
Thank you very much!!
Great info, thank you for posting this! 👍
Thanx, great video!!
Thanks you did a great job explaining, your a hero! 💪🏽💯
excellent video, well done
Excellent video. Thanks very much!
Thanks, best photography, made it clear
Very informative. Thank you
Really great video. Very intuitive.
Excellent video. Really good info and detailed.
Great job. I learned a lot in ten minutes
Very precise explanation and a very helpful video.
Thank you very much.
Got it. Great detailed info. Thank you
Even I can do it .good man thank you
Awesome video man thanks for the help.
Thankyou very much for your video you made this whole process simple and easy so now I can do what I need to do
I have owned severl older vehicles with steel brake lines and live in the salt belt. Over the years, I learned that you should always have ample brake line parts (e.g. brake lines, fittings and tools) on hand at all times. Also, replace as much of the leaky brake line(s) as possible when doing a brake line job. Take it from someone who has done dozens of brake line repair jobs over the past 50 years.
Great video. U show and explain very clearly. Thanks.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Great video , thanks for sharing .
Very good demo!
A nice explanation of the difference between the acceptable Union coupler and the non-acceptable compression coupler. I find this is so misunderstood, even by some mechanics.
verry good explanation, and most important you said what is the issue with compression fitting, thanks and keep up good job, you'v got a new subscriber 😉
Great video. Replacing the entire brake line is not always that easy in your driveway. Sometimes the splice repair is the only way to go.
I agree make the temporary fix until you can get it somewhere easier to replace the whole line. Having zero brakes especially in a big vehicle makes it impossible to move the vehicle anywhere safely
I tried to flare a 3/16" brake line with my flaring tool. The tool works on copper pipe, but not on steel brake lines. When I tighten it, the flaring tool just pushed the line out without flaring it. I don't have the flaring die. Maybe that's why it didn't work. At least I learned something today.
I'm working on the severally rusted brake lines on my '93 GMC Jimmy. I'm pleased that the new brake lines bend without collapsing.
Great video. Very simple to follow, and great tip with using the ATF.
One bone to pick: PLEASE consider wearing gloves when you use brake cleaner. A major component of brake cleaner is Tetrachloroethylene (PCE) which is an extremely carcinogenic substance. It's most common route of exposure is through inhalation, but it is also extremely harmful through direct contact with the liquid form, i.e. when it contacts your skin. If it contacts your skin, you should make haste to wash your hands off thoroughly and immediately. That said, it's best to wear a pair of nitrile or latex gloves when using brake cleaner. Believe me, I get my hands filthy with grease, oil, brake dust, and rust when I work on my cars, but I do NOT mess around when using brake cleaner. I'll admit that its a very effective cleaner though!
It is some nasty stuff. I use it all the time and am careful avoiding the fumes and contact with skin.
awesome! My brake line went on me tonight less than a week before a major trip. Funny enough, I just had to replace the ABS module a few months ago and I assumed at first that it was the module that went bad again, until I saw a trail of brake fluid in the parking space I backed out of. I probably should just replace all the brake lines, but this is the length of job that will keep me going until then.
Thank you for explaining steps by steps on how to do a brake lines union ,And recommended a unio instead a compression fitting for high psi on the lines
Wow, thank you. Seriously appreciate this video
Glad you found it helpful! Cheers.
Very good video, thanks.
A very helpful informative video
OMG! Great video but if you've pulled the brake line off, then BUY A NEW ONE! $25 IS ALL for a brand NEW ONE! C'mon! You'd be doing it anyway in a year if you've got that much rust on 1 part already. GIVE GOOD, THOROUGH info on the most important part of the car!
Great video and advice !
It's SUPER EASY to do that off the car!!! I've done a ton of brk line jobs, I found it easiest to replaxe from connection to connection!
Big deal. He is merely showing how to use a double flaring kit. No need to lose it over a video that many others like.
Exelent video and easy to follow. Good job!!!
Very nice, brother. Thank you.
Nice video in every respect especially when you look at some of the other brake line repair videos by other people. Cheers.
Thanks for the informative video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video, thanks!