Mate i think you've just saved me a fortune...exact same problem at the exact same point. Wish i had seen your video first though as i have just burst the sill at the jacking point you were talking about...it was rotten!
Common issue in scotand. I had a scottish mazda apart from the car rotting the brake pipes were shot. Sadly it went to the great scrap yard in the sky with only 80k miles on it 😢
When you flared the new pipe, after using the nipple which fits into the end of the pipe you then need to remove the nipple and tighten up the flaring tool -- just like you did with the first pipe -- and this will give you a double flare. Hope that helps.
Mate i think you've just saved me a fortune...exact same problem at the exact same point. Wish i had seen your video first though as i have just burst the sill at the jacking point you were talking about...it was rotten!
Useful informative video - thanks. I have to attempt the same sort of job on the notorious rear brake pipe corrosion of a 2003 BMW M3 Convertible.
Very well explained.
Great video, thanks mate!
Good work 👏
super helpful thank you
Nice nice video, i got issue with exactly the same place.
Glad you found the video useful.
Near the road wheels are always a common failure point as they are get battered with water and salt from the roads.
I fixed but not like you mate, i didn't have that luck like you to unscrew the pipe from the hose easy like you.
Anyway helpfull video.
Common issue in scotand. I had a scottish mazda apart from the car rotting the brake pipes were shot. Sadly it went to the great scrap yard in the sky with only 80k miles on it 😢
When you flared the new pipe, after using the nipple which fits into the end of the pipe you then need to remove the nipple and tighten up the flaring tool -- just like you did with the first pipe -- and this will give you a double flare. Hope that helps.
gut jop prother ! fery gut
Is that double flare?
Hi there.
A "male" end could be called a double flare.