1989 Ford F-150 IDLE PROBLEM FOUND!!
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2016
- Do you have an idle problem in your 1989 Ford F-150? Have you replaced everything and it's still there and throwing. A check engine light? This might help you then! After almost splitting my head open against the wall, I finally looked further into the problem and found that the ECM was burned out in some spots. Hope this helps!
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Don’t you all miss radioshack now? lol 😅
That truck is still more simple than what they make today. That's what I need to get.
I just bought a 1990 F150 XLT Lariat and got it running but it's got the same problem. Can't wait to plow snow with it this winter.
Good Info. Thanks for taking time to make this.
Great info, thank you! You might have just saved another Bronco!
Thanks man for informing me. I just noticed on my exact model as yours that the idle was getting rough and were having to give more gas than usual along with it cutting out. Thanks I think you might’ve helped me fix my problem.
I have the same truck, same year and also the 4.9 straight six. Mine has a rough idle and when i accelerate the battery light comes on, when I let off the gas it goes away only to come right back when I press the gas again. I just replaced the entire distributer all the way down, cap, rotor,plugs, wires,oil and filter, ECC relay, lift pump, fuel pump,fuel filter, ignition switch, starter, starter solenoid and battery. You think my alternator is going out?
If you get a code about OX. sensor running rich, replace the MAP sensor. If you get codes about EGR vacuum at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve.
on my 1991 ford f150, i just replaced the computer and she never had issues after that
so its best you replace every electronic idling parts on your engine and the ECU or computer
Hi here is some info about capacitors (cap) that you need to know, to properly check a cap you should remove it from the cir circuit or at least remove 1 lead from the circuit, that may be why the one in the corner measured 100 ohms, there might be a resister across it, or part of the circuit may cause a miss reading. Typically caps either short, or open, there are times they will short and blow the can off and there will be an amazing amount of paper blown out. One thing that concerns me is the burned spot on the.
board, usually a bad cap won't cause a burn like that.
Good luck on repairing it.
Thank You for making this video!!!!
I’m having all the same issues, I’ll be purchasing a new ECM. Any idea if the ECM from an AutoZone or Orileys would be ok?
That's one clean truck
Ok im having issues with my 94 and all sensors test good even all wires but do you thing it possible extreem vibration from bass could of broke computer i have anotherone to install but not sure if its good i have a few vids of truck up on my channel the bass is nasty and i do have fire wall flex
I have a bad idle with no check engine Ive changed everything you can think of IAC Map sensor distributor wires temperature sensor throttle position sensor battery vacume lines I don't have oxygen sensor do to having long tube headers but mymechanic still cant figure it out ?
Been goin through same issues with mine and replace every sensor and went through whole fuel system even as far as tear down and injector cleaning and inspection computer is only thing I didn't do I have a parts truck computer I opened and inspected it's junk but now know wat looking for this video explained allot great vid thanks
Shawn Miller I bought mine on EBay! Make sure you match the numbers on the ECU and it should be a direct swap!
@@MrMarineGomez found that it's 100 % computer and I has broken off capasators and corroded I think the Extreem bass helped it allong cause the board is cracked by a capasator the firewall dose flex pretty good with the system all the way up
@@MrMarineGomez what was price range some of prices I've seen are about 400
Shawn Miller I purchased mine when I posted the video for about $100 on EBay. What is the part number, year make and model for your vehicle? I can try to help you look for one! Also, automatic or manual transmission?
@@MrMarineGomez I'll have to pull it back out of truck I didn't write them down but had to move truck so it went back together for temporary
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions test, transmission codes, check engine light turn off, oil maintenance light cut off, and MORE! It has code connect to diagnose codes. It works on cars 1983-2013 and is updatable.
I just did a whole tune up on my 90. Idles perfect and has tons of power if you get on it - but when cruising at a steady speed it is erratic feels like I'm hauling a water tank ...wondering if it might be the computer
Did this ever straighten out? Wondering if system was doing a little relearning?
MAP sensed went bad on my 88 F-250. Now when I drive, it sounds like a get engine surge, but when it idling
I have a 87 4.9l idle high when gets warm. Need help or advice
How much is that cpu?
Im so sick of the electronic ignition and all the issues so im going to put a points ignition in , no more headaches nice n simple
I have 2 ECM, replaced the caps in both, same low idle issue causing it to stall in gear.
Hello and good evening I bought a 1991 f250 300 with a 5 speed couldn’t get to run right somebody put the wrong computer in the truck it now runs great
Could this make it seem like a transmission issue?
Good vid thanks for not trying to be a movie star.direct and to the point.
Mine ECM looks brand new inside and only have 1 capacitor. Bronco 1987 5.0 .Wonder if previous owner put the wrong one. I ordered one for 371 dollar and truck didn't even start .
Can someone help my what store can get capacities 47s my ECM computer has a two 47s leaking marks .?
I have a 1996 F-superduty with 460 7.5 engine and it stall out when I'm in gear stopped and go to take off , I've changed almost everything I am going to try this I hope it works
Any updates? Did it work?
@@carlosmartinez8335 the problem was the PSOM or speedometer computer board, it was not reading the speed sensor from rear differential sottering points were bad sent it to module mechanics and they fixed it for a$100 bucks, was so frustrating to figure out but that fixed it 100%
I have a 91 f150 with a 4.9 , codes 327 EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage, and code 328 EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected, was told to look for vacuum leaks and found one and fixed it but codes are still there, do you think could it be the CPU ?
Did you figure it out?
@@blakeseales6143 Sold it
Im haveing same issue but i burnt a good coil out changed it crank crank crank no start then i unpluggd my condensor and the timeing diode and crankd ncrankdn crankd then it started ran fine for about 140 miles then back to buckin loseing spark??
And ive changed distributor ecm and coil and ignition switch added a few grounds and still wont stay running right idles up n down ran tests its throwing 412 116 332 411
What was that spark at 2.04 on the vid ?
Jeff Burton not sure! Just saw it lol. That was weird!
I had an 89 f150, and it’s very sluggish on while accelerating... and it also has a miss in the idle too. Haven’t looked into it but looking at al types of possible things
Get a Actron CP9680 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, transmission codes, oxygen sensor codes, and MORE! It comes in a black pouch. It has code- connect to diagnose codes. It uses 4 aaa batteries, not included, under the rear screw. It's well-lit. EBAY has it.
@Integra DIY - Did you ever get your acceleration issue figured out? If yes, what was the fix?
I've got the same deal with mine wtf?
@@thomasjefferson2938 Get a Actron CP9680 code tester. It checks codes. It has code-connect to diagnose codes. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, Oil light turn off, check engine light reset, and MORE! The screen is well-lit. It works from 1984-2013 and is updatable with a USB cable from EBAY. The CP9680 works on OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. It comes in a black pouch. Get 4 aaa batteries for under the rear cover. It stores test results until erased. The MAF may need cleaning on your truck. Check the EGR valve and circuit. Try fuel- injector cleaner. Remove the IAC valve to see if it's dirty. Also the EGR. Maybe the fuel filter is dirty. Check fuel pressure. The CP9680/CP9690 may can check fuel pressure. Check the plugs etc. Check for vacuum leaks. Check the fuses.
So what was the problem
Did you ever pull the codes before swapping parts out?
Yes and I replaced what the codes called for and nothing. Everything went away when I replaced the ECU
Thank you
Mine wouldn't idle on open loop, idle fine in close loop, have any thing to do with ecm problem?
Anthony Cusumano Pull the ECM and inspect it!
You where right there is blown Resistor on the ecm mother board. thanks again great video
Anthony Cusumano Im glad it helped!
I drive a 89 f150 today i drive home normal after changing my water pump then when i went to start it...it starts but not reving out it rev like gas is low but i know ir isn't gas what could cause that problem
I know that if the throttle position sensor goes bad it will cause your truck to hesitate,sputter,or bog down when you give it gas....or maybe your belt to hooked up rite on your water pump....if it was fine before u changed your pump then it’s doing it now I would start there but who knows...hope u get it fixed
@@walker1474 thanks man i got it fixed the other day but i have an issue with the start solenoid it keeps burning up idk how that keeps happening
If you replace the computer does it have to be programmed?
No it does not! Just swap them out!
Fixing everything is still cheaper than taking it to a mechanic and letting them rip you off and still not fixing the problem
Does your trans whine in every gear?
Joe Buchanan a little late but yes, it would wine in every gear. Annoying it held up fine!
Man, I'm having a code 34 which is sending me over to the egr valve. I'm going to inspect the computer now.
al tep it could be your ECU if you replaced the EGR and the problem did not go away.
Replace the charcoal canister purge valve if you get improper vacuum at the EGR. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, ABS, SRS, transmission codes, oxygen sensor codes, and MORE! It has Code connect to diagnose codes. It comes in a black pouch. It works on OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. It has a cable for OBDII. The screen is well-lit. It uses 4 aaa batteries under the rear cover, not included. It retains the memory of results until removed by testing another car. EBAY has it.
The best way to check them is with a low ESR meter
this didnt answer my question on mine im afraid ive already replaced this it didnt fix my idle but it did fix my transmission, my trans was slipping and not shifting right after changing the ecm it fixed its self
Big_Joes Riding_Mowers that’s very interesting! At least the transmission is good now!
I'm having transmission issues too. What happened with yours?
The computer controls the e40d automatic transmission through the shift sylonoids inside transmission. And the sensors on transmission , working with speed sensor and engine sensors mainly map sensor to detect engine load.
Also the throttle position sensor
I know this is an old comment. But one day my truck slowed down. Wouldnt shift. OD light was flashing. I thought my trans had went out. Then would go into reverse find but wouldnt drive for shit. Almost like a "limp mode". After doing some searching... changed the ECM. Fixed the issue.
If you can, get one from a junkyard. It's probably good. Old computers go bad.
What's issues where you experiencing
T Armas a misfire that would not go ahead.
Where do you find the motherboard
Matt Ranaudo look at the engine bay on the firewall at the bottom in the driver side. You’ll see a thick wire loom where it connects to the ECU
👍🏼
How much was your computer board
Joseph Rothrock it was about $100! Bought it on EBay and it was a direct swap. No ref lashing or anything. Make sure you match the ECU numbers on your current board with the one you are looking at!
Pretty sure the '89 I bought has a bad ECM. Thing throws a code for basically every sensor, but like not at all one time. First it was the TPS, replaced that, then the MAF, changed that, then a coolant sensor, said fuck it and took it to a local mechanic that I know won't fuck me. He thinks it's the ECM too, but it's strange you don't find much information online about these things going bad.
Terminxman Believe me, it is very common for them to go bad. You can easily remove the computer and open the cover and inspected for any burnt parts
I'd be doing it right now if I didn't have it at a shop and I had the time, but I know this guy won't screw me so I'm gonna just let him work it I guess. Kind of wish I'd dug into it more myself though.
Terminxman Well let me know what you find out! Or what he finds out!
I'm about down to actually pulling the ECM, can't think of anything else it could be. To be clear, you fixed this ECM and reinstalled it and you confirmed that it fixed the issue?
Terminxman I replaced the ECU instead of fooling with it. I didn’t have a good soldering iron at the time so it was just easier to replace it.
Shit man i think you just saved my bronco lol
Dave Zol Dude, I was like why does it still have that slight miss!? So yeah the computer was the problem!
I think alot more ppl have this issue than they know i bought a bronco recently and i have years or service records with it and its been to the shop 4 times for the same thing ...im bout to hit a junk yard And pull come computers and do some testing
Dave Zol yeah man, they made the capacitors in those motherboards to only work for so many hours and then they burn out. Tell tell sign is if you have a check engine light on and pull the codes and then you replace the parts, in my case, MAP sensor, IACV, EGR valve, and it still had the same lights on. Most likely burnt out capacitors on the computer board. I just went ahead and bought one on eBay and replaced it and it ran PERFECTLY. Make sure you match the VIN number as well!
Thats shitty of ford to do.. but technology wasnt great back then im going to pull my computer to inspect it for burns thanks man
Dave Zol sometimes thy won't have burn marks but sometimes they will. You'll just have to test them with a multimeter
Follow up.please
Did it fix your idling problem
Mine was the fuel tank selector valve
Ahhh it came back lol then my inertia switch went out. Lmfao so I jus wired it straight I can rev the engine in neutral and the idle goes back down, but now when I push in my clutch and let out in whatever gear I'm starting whether it's reverse first or second the idle rev to about 2.5 and stay there until they shut the engine off and turn it back on and it usually goes away. Not my computer or ecm whatever it's brand new
My 89 has similar idling issues did you find a solution?
1:00 You state the RED WIRE should have 5 volts....... Did you verify this?????? They say "garbage in, garbage out." If the reference voltage is not at 5 volts, then the green wire will not be correct. Yes, the capacitors could have failed due to age, or maybe there is a partial short to ground of one of the V-Ref wires. Partial short, will cause excess current and stress the voltage supplies inside the ECM.
How about showing and telling us where the heck you got that mother board from!!
RockAuto! Make sure you match up the Numbers on it though!
You didn't say if it fixed the problem!
anthony morales I end up replacing the ECU completely but it fixed my issue 100%
you didn't say if the new ecm fixed the problem
@@RyanGauvin-mr8dn yes it did. Ran like new after I replaced it!
@@MrMarineGomez the reason I asked, about to go that route myself.
Can you tell me where and how you got a new computer?
Leonel Soto EBay! Pull the ECU, match the numbers on it to the ones that are for sale! Direct swap with no need to program it.
@@MrMarineGomez thanks for the reply. Hopefully this will FINALLY fix my idle problem. Liked and subscribed
@@leonelsoto733 did a new ecu fix your truck?
It did fix the issue!
@@leonelsoto733 well shiiiit, I think I'ma have to pull the ecu on my truck as well mine keeps hesitating and bogs down as I push the skinny pedal.
The computer on these older fords are overlooked by mechanics…all kinds of iddling issues, dieing, running rough..changing out a bunch of sensores, head gaskets etc…go for the computer first
I cant even get my 4.9 to idle. replaced IAC, TPS, all vacuum lines. ignition is good. fuel is good. it starts, runs about 30 seconds on its own, then its a struggle to keep it running. Been working on engines 40 years, but 3 months of this 4.9... and I just about hate it. the 4.9 belongs in a yard implement, not in a car.
Got ecm from Autozone for less than a hundred
cedric simmons how is it working almost a year later?
Hmm mine looks great and still have the issue
Id just put a resistor on that green striped wire, could probably fix it
Capacitors can't be tested just with an ohm meter but a bad capacitor will be swollen up. The burn on the circuit board says a different problem somewhere else.
That's an electrolytic capacitor. They do blow time to time especially if they get warm. The electrolyte will often "leak" out of them with some force when they blow causing the burn mark. They sometimes go off like a .22 bullet. The burn mark in this case is almost 100% guaranteed to be from the cap.
I'm an electrical engineer. The test he talked in the video does work but it wont tell you if a capacitor is within it's proper range, only if it's failed completely. Sometimes a 47uF cap might only be providing 4uF and this test wouldn't tell you that. Using an ohm meter on a capacitor will start at low impedance and slowly climb as the capacitor charges from the test voltage that the ohmmeter is providing through the leads. If it reads less than a few ohms and isn't changing then the capacitor is shorted internally. If it reads infinity/OL then it's likely open (failed). The catch is that you have to remove the capacitors. If it's still hooked up to the rest of the circuit board, then you are also testing all the other things it's connected to. At the end when he said that the cap on the upper right was 100ohms and not changing, that probably doesn't mean the cap it bad, it could just be that there is a 100ohm resistance elsewhere in the circuit. Lots of cheap multimeters have a proper capacitance test mode that will do a proper test. I use a AN8008 which is only $20 and has a cap mode. You still need to remove the cap from the circuit to test it correctly though. Hope that helps!
@@VTOffRoadAdventures Since he said that the cap appeared to work when he tested it with the ohmmeter, my guess is that the leads had corroded and become partially disconnected. Then sparking across the tiny gap where the lead broke due to vibration is what caused the carbon deposits on the PCB. It's likely the cap has leaked and it probably bad too. Your right they can sometimes explode, but more often they just leak or just lose their capacitance.
Watch another video show the same you show he had 14 bad ones