1993 f150 4.9 bad idle / bad throttle response / very rough running
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- This is a video about me replacing the MAP sensor on 1993 F1 50. In the video I show the numerous things I tried that didn't work and then in the end I showed you the MAp sensor location and how to replace it I also showed you before and after with the engine running.
Also! I discovered that replacing the map sensor fixed my hvac problem. It was only blowing out the defrost no matter what setting you had it on. I replaced the map sensor and it fixed it fro some reason.
![1988 F150 Hesitation Problem [FIX!]](/img/n.gif)
It is a shame that a shade tree mechanic such as yourself, after untold hours going back and forth to the auto store, buying everything in stock except the EGR (lucky you) has to be the one true and honest person to help out all the rest of us F150 owners. May God bless the rest of your truck driving miles. I'm going to call the auto store for my MAP sensor and I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks man.
I’m having similar issues. Misfire cyl1. Only happens after it runs and u stop and start it again. Replaced distributor, plugs, wires, air filter, etc still having the same issues. Any help would be great!
What a back handed complement bud. You prolly would've done the same thing by the sound of your gratefulness to not have to do all that
@@25centsapop, **probably
It was over 29 years ago I learned my lesson about these trucks which leads me to say to anyone with one of these trucks with that whacko EFI crap on the motor to just remove it. My good friend Mike had a 1990 used it for construction like all of had several trucks. We ate up every beautiful sunny weekend including Fridays one May circa 1992 or 1993 I forger which... We did not work on Fridays back then due to the contractor we worked 4. But the entire month of May we spent every weekend running back & forth to Auto Zone and Advanced had just opened in our area that summer. We replaced about everything under the hood including the intake gaskets. Everything but that blasted EGR. So 3 years ago I inherited one of these trucks from a You Tube fan of mine. It was free. I don't know say no to a free truck even if it is a Ford. I went ripped off the EFI garbage and every single sensor on that 4.9L. She now has the Offenhauser intake and Holley 4BBL and man does she run good. I also used a Manley cam shaft in her. The hell with all that EFI garbage and now U can actually tell there really is an engine in my truck because U can see it without that big retarded Tarantula on top of the motor.
@@thekingsilverado3266 I just bought a 96 with an inline 6. It runs like crap and will barely idle like the video.I don't see a MAP sensor unless the changed the looks of it. Haven't figured it out yet, but still trying. There is no evap crap on it.
Thanks this is exactly what my truck was doing and the MAP sensor fixed it. FYI you can confirm that it is the MAP sensor by just unplugging the sensor and the truck should run fine but with a check engine light.
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for the info on unplugging it!
I absolutely LOVE that you took the time to show all of the parts that you replaced. Very thorough video! Thanks!
best engine ford ever made.
Jeremy Morrissette good but needs to be taken care of
Also it would appear in a top 5 list of best inline 6 engines.
my very first on was a 240 in a 69 F100, will run forever and ever, GM had a 292 six. really strong motor. and pontiac had a fuel injected one in the '70s and is aluminum.
429 boss is fords best engine.
That's EXACTLY what mine is doing...Thanks so much...Can't wait to try it...You're a great dude to take time out of your life to "look out" for your fellow man...Health, freedom, love and respect to you and yours...:)
My truck was having the same problem, I fixed thanks to this good, video map sensor cost $49dlls auto zone
i know it's pretty off topic but does anybody know of a good place to stream newly released series online?
@Kingsley Lincoln Flixportal :P
@Korbin Jericho thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I appreciate it !!
@Kingsley Lincoln you are welcome xD
After watching your video, I went and replaced the MAP sensor in my 92 f250, and its running much better . Thank you.
Did you reset it? After installing bc i did try doing that but still bad
I have a 88 f 150 4.9. I looked at this today. Went out and bought the map sensor. Only $49 And replaced it. And it is 98% better no rough idle and running smother!! Thank you !!!!
Did you reset it?
Same symptoms happened to my sons 1995 f 150. Found your video, replaced MAP sensor, truck fired right up, and running like new. Thanks for the video!
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, ABS, SRS, Oxygen sensor test, and MORE! It has Code- connect to diagnose codes. EBAY has it.
@@hankbridges5055 or use a paper clip for free
@@hankbridges5055 does is support obd 1? The obd2 ports weren’t introduced to the f150s until 96
Thoughtful video sharing your knowledge based on your experience; no doubt you have been a big help to many older truck enthusiasts, including the author of this short text. Thank you.
Thank you for the thoughtful message!
Thanks man been having this problem with rough and high idle for a long while with my 94 ! Checked and replaced everything you mentioned and more! Will be replacing the map sensor next! Thanks for sharing the info👍
I replaced a lot of parts. All I really needed was to clean the fuel injectors with high octane fuel and fuel injector cleaner.
I'm having the same issues with my truck, and this information helps tremendously. Thank you. 👍
@@lagotobluesummers7553 glad I was able to help
Thanks for the video.I'm having the same problem with sluggish response at idle and not wanting to take the gas.Pointing out all the other items you replaced and their location on the truck was helpful. Saved me a time and money not to replace them and go right to the MAP.
syngo13 Get a code tester like the Action CP9690. It does graphing and freeze frame and has a code connect to troubleshoot most likely possibility of the problem. If you get O2 sensors running rich, replace the MAP sensor. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. It'd be good to replace these parts now since they're old and probably causing trouble. MAP sensors go out of spec. and cause the mixture to run richer than normal. That tester reads CTS voltage. If it says the coolent temp. is 32° but it's 80° outside, replace the CTS. It checks ABS and other things. It helped me diagnose my car QUICKLY! Older cars get a Snap-on scanner and adapters and personality keys etc.
I wanted to thank you for this video. I was going to start replacing parts, but after watching this video I did the MAP sensor and my vehicle was imidiately back to normal.
Thanks again
Cheers
I’m having same issues with my 1996 f150 5.0 v8 would it be the maf sensor?
@@Jruno I think it is the same part. I looked up both vehicles on ebay and the same part number was called out.
Thank you thank you thank you so much I've taken my truck to a bunch of mechanics, can't figure out what it is, same symptoms and all. Imma give it a try and see what happens! Thank you!!!
Same problem with my son's 92 F-150 ............New fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor.......the idle is very low.......thanks for the idea about the MAP sensor, I'll try that next.
having the same problem did it work
@@Darkmaniac What seemed to fix it was when we bought a new gas tank, since the one on it was weeping, not dripping gas, but it was always wet..........and then since they were putting on a new tank for us i had them put on a new fuel pump and replay............then it ran and started much much better after that and seems perfectly fine now........So, i think the fuel pump even though it still worked, was not working properly......so, maybe that is the problem if you have over 150 thousand miles on your truck.
I have an 89 f150. My truck would run rough and rich on idle. But would clean up at higher rpm. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel into the vacuum system. Also the intake gasket on the throttle body was sucked in. Btw you can usually use any thin wall hard plastic tubing to get those fuel filters off. Just cut it length wise and slip it into the fittings.
With the 300 i6
Where is the regulator located, did it cause rich exhaust smell ?
Right on..no doubt now you're ready get a job as a tech at Ford dealer.
I really appreciated very much everything
About you. Very " HUMBLE " and down to the point. Not like other guy's first they talk about their pets, a whole life story.
I can only imagine what you went through. Trying to fix your truck. A LOT OF TIME and MONEY AND I'M SURE FRUSTRATION..!!
And now in just a few minutes 5, 10 minutes You have shared everything
With people whom may have the same problem.
" SAVING US TIME, MONEY AND HEADACHES. "
YOU'RE AWESOME 👌 👏 THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR EVERYTHING..
I WISH I COULD BUY YOU A 🍺 🍺 🍺 BEER FOR ALL THE TROUBLE..!!
My 92 was running rough and I replaced the intake manifold temp sensor and the spark plugs and it's running better now. The sensor was covered in sludge.
You did a very good job explaining your troubleshooting. Thanks.
I replaced everything you just mentioned but map sensor! I'll give it a shot. 94 explorer
I knew it was the MAP sensor when you started talking. I did an engine swap a few years back and upon start up, I had the same issues. After going crazy trying to figure it out, I found that a mud dauber wasp had built a nest in the vacuum line to the MAP while it was disassembled. I ran a piece of wire through it and a bunch of mud and larvae came out and after that it ran just fine.
Those vacuum lines can cause all kinds of trouble if blocked or removed. I learned that during this process too!
Sounds exactly what I am dealing with on my 1990 F150 4.9L 4WD Manual Transmission. Going to auto parts store in the morning to buy me a MAP sensor. Keeping my fingers crossed...
Omg I have been trying to track down WTF was wrong with my 302 has got to be the same thing. I have spent so much money replacing shit. No mechanics could figure it out. THANKS BRO!! Such a simple fix
Take it to a real mechanic not a guy with tools. This video is a joke and most of you are clueless as to what any of these things do, just change parts until it is "fixed"...idiots.
they are not actual mechanics then. a simple multitester and about two minutes each sensor to test them is all you need to figure out which one is not working right., this is basic stuff., find an actual mechanic who actually knows that the ECM sends 5 volts to sensors. wow..
You just saved 2 of my trucks. 93 f150 and 2001 f150.
You are a hero!
Thanks, my 1989 F150 just started doing this. Saw your video and under $20 it fixed it. Great Video!
This video coulda saved me so much headache if I had seen it a little sooner! Thanks so much for the advice buddy, great informational video. You are the reason my truck is running as we speak!
That’s awesome! I’m so glad your truck is back running!
Thank you so much. I was so close to giving up on my baby. 96 about the same model but emerald green
\o
Mine is a 93 Ford F-150 .Emerald green as well.
I appreciate yall driveway mechanics posting these videos cause it helps, I just acquired a 93 f150 from my mom, it needs stuff shuts off while driving down the road so we got a fuel pump and filter some permatex for the rear differential case
This was a very informative video. My 5.0 just started doing this and overheating, i guess im getting a new map sensor and a thermostat! Thanks man! Such a relief and a weight off my shoulders ive been trying to get my old ford on the road for nearly two years and ill admit i cried when it came back from.the shop doing both of these things, seems like itll never be on the road but your video gave me hope! God bless
I just did the exact thing. I replaced EGR and Neutral safety switch. Still idled poorly. New MAP sensor and it runs good now. Thanks
Neutral safety switch has nothing to do with the motor at all haha. fail.
Well if a man's gonna keep his ford it don't hurt to buy some parts for it that's known to die out it make him feel better
Well I got tired of my Chevy's rusting out underneath me. Last 5 Chevy's I owned are now in the junkyard because of rusted out frames. Drivetrains were all great but the frames were gone.@@JesseEdwards-d1x
I fucking love you sir with all due respect!!!!! You have no idea wait you do have exactly an idea of what I've been dealing with! Now because of you taking your time to do this video you saved me the most valuable thing we have and that is time sir. I've been working on this 95 f150 (not a mechanic) for 2 weeks! Rewired the entire fuel system (both tanks) and after a bunch headaches your video put a end to my nightmare! I wish I could buy you a beer my man I really wish I could. Thank you sir
@@jimenezisrael44 thank you for the comment!! This makes me happy. So glad I was able to help!!
Unplug the negative lead from the battery, the unplug the connector from the MAP and put dielectric grease on the ports plug it back in, plug the cable back onto the battery and start her up! Night and day difference!
Ill give it a try but what does this do???
@@ricochetey Over the years they get dirty and lose conductivity.The grease makes it like new.
@@ricochetey he doesn't know what he's talking about. The grease is to keep air off of the electrical connections, thus preventing oxidation. An important step he forgot to mention was the gentle cleaning of connecting metals
Yeah, and clean the connectors on the other sensors too, it's common for the boot to dry out and allow moisture inside, then a few thousand heat cycles and corrosion can cause trouble to the ECU. There is also a PIP (profile ignition pickup) sensor on the distributor shaft that can ruin your day as well.
Everyone needs to use electrical spray cleaner every once in a while on their vehicles connecters and what it plugs too I do and it sure does.help it makes sense yaw all no they get a little dirty so buy a can and do it don't be Lazy it best 9 dollars you ever spent
Good 🎥. Always the map sensor when the car starts up fine and has a rough idle issue. Good video. 95% of the time its the MAP sensor
You just saved me from a new engine thanks for the post you got yourself another subscriber
Thank you for your time and video. My 300 is running poor and powerless. I was thinking timing...but now I have a new area to look. Thanks again.
Thank you so much, I found that problem. I have a v8 sensor and an i6 acm which can lead to wrong readings. It could also be because it has no power either. Thank you so much. Replaced o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and distributor. I also replaced the coil. It runs crappy still and I changed the vacuum leaks where it goes to a default state. It ran better I replaced a lot of other things and it didn’t change.
I'm glad the video helped some! Glad you got your truck back running.
@@BeePerky problem was a v8 ecm in an i6.
I hope the truck is still running great!
@@BeePerky thank you. It’s running awesome
Dude. I've been throwing parts at this thing since replacing my fuel pumps. The last thing you'd think of would be something that doesn't appear to be in the fuel system, WTF.
I can't thank you enough.
I see your video, and I yes fixed my truck, right now thank you so much for sharing, your knowledge, you save me a bunch of money 💰🙂👍
Great video man! have a '93 myself and have the symptoms you had. Luckily I have not bought a bunch of parts yet thanks to you! Cheers!
96 Inline 6 for me I’ve replaced so much. Still a rough shaky idle not stalling or anything but definitely off. Noticed my harmonic balancer was moving forward and backwards slightly and this can cause rough idle because it’s not absorbing the vibration from the engine. May be something to check in yours if the map sensor doesn’t work. I’m changing both this weekend fingers crossed it fixes my idle.
Thank you so much for making this video, really helped me out 👍👍
I changed in order: spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, vacuum hoses (all of them), distributor cap and rotor, throttle position sensor, idle controller, I have been looking at the egr, I have a brand new air filter, I was looking at the oxygen sensor today (found your video), I will look at the MAP sensor today and let you know what happens.
Fucking same man I did all that shit plus fuel injectors anew throttle body a complete new distributor
I repace the fuel filter and i replace one of the fuel pumps because my e150 has 2 tanks. Is a 1988 econoline. Thanks for your video.
di the fuel filter help?
I have a 92 e150 van with a 5.0, and it's doing the exact same thing heat and all lol I was going to go thru all them sensors, but watching your vid helped hell of a lot, I've been trying to find the right vid on here for awhile that fit my symptoms, and yours fit mine to the T, so as soon as the sun come up I'm on it! Thanx bud😎🖒
did you fix it yet
Thank you. Having the exact same issue. Hope that's it.
I’ve changed fuel pump & filter, water pump, thermostat, plugs & wires, distributor & rotor, o2 sensor, coolant temp sensor. Not all but mostly trying to fix the idle. It’s a little shaky and rough not stalling out but it’s noticeably off. Looked at all my pulleys cause I noticed a chirping noice with the truck running and noticed my harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley was moving back and forth slightly. Definitely replacing it tomorrow along with the map sensor and fingers crossed my idle will be fixed 🤞🏼
Thank you for making this video and showing us "how to repair". My 93 OBS 4.9l is experiencing the same symptoms. Crossing my fingers this is the issue. #teamdiy
Before you changed the MAP sensor would the truck shut off when you come a stop before it warmed up ?
I have the same problem I was thinking of changing all the parts that you did but I think I’ll start with the map sensor as well
I hope this helped and you were able to fix your truck
I think you're an awesome mechanic 🤗
Awesome job Sir
Thanks Ruben!
Thank you had the same promblem with mine
I'm glad I was able to help!
Get a Actron CP9690 tester. It checks live, record, oxygen sensor tests, smog readiness test, code connect to troubleshoot and MORE! Warm the engine to 2000 RPM'S for 2 minutes. After each repair, retest. If you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve if it has one. If you get Oxygen sensor running rich codes, replace the MAP sensor if it has one. Usually it's not the EGR position sensor. Modules don't have codes.
It's ironic that I knew all the component names after researching and testing and buying and replacing to no avail, and then have you run down the list and point out that part ... I called it several names when my truck stalled it traffic though. Good video
I have 90 with the 4.9 6. Mine idles great and starts good but the acceleration sux. I'm gonna try this, thanks for the do's and don'ts!
Absolutely! I hope it helps!
Did you get yours running better?
Sounds like pretty much every regular dude that doesn't work in mechanics: I replaced like everything I could think of ... A couple hundred dollars later I finally found the culprit! Haha I love it. It's me everytime.
You just saved my weekend thank u bro!!
Thanks .you saved me time and money !!
Yep, MAP sensor..
Same thing happened to me on my 4.9 E150 just wouldn’t start .
My buddy’s brother had a no start problem on his Ford truck.. it was the MAP. He said try that.. I did and it started right up.
That MAP sensor can mess up a lot of stuff if it’s bad!
Thanks for the info!
Will remember that if my ‘94 ever has that issue…
Thanks!!
As a quick check, disconnect the EGR and plug the hose. Drive it and see if it improves. If not, check the codes with a Actron CP9690. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions tests, solenoid and relay test, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, it has code connect to diagnose codes. It works on cars from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
well the EGR could be carboned up bad and stuck open too, that is not a good check for the EGR at all.
Terrific video!! I have a 96 302 engine and I have replaced almost everything including just recently the engine now I can’t make it run right. I am so frustrated!!!
I finally got it running perfectly!!!
@@vandettabuilds6641 what was the issue?
Mines also doing this except on a 460 91 f250 and it stalls under any load thank God for the low end torque on these big blocks or I would've been stuck on a hill, any ideas if this could be the same thing?
Good job. Too bad you had to go through all the steps, but you learned in the meantime
Some cars and trucks use a MAF sensor instead of a MAP sensor, but the symptoms can be very similar.
MAP and MAF are different things, Manifold absolute pressure and Mass air flow
they are not same sensors true,,., but they are 5 volts same though,
Yo me and my dad appreciate you tons we did the exact same thing we slowly been replacing everything. We got a 1990 f150 4.9l sat for five years we been trying to get it fired up got it fired up the idol was absolutely shit and we messed with that sensor and it idoled like a fucking champ we took the vacuum hose off.
The plastic vacuum hoses like to crack, and rubber ones often collapse inside, so be ready to replace them all, its just cheap insurance, theres enough electrical dodads to frustrate the shit out of you, at least insure the vacuum lines are good.
You said something about "throttle something". Were you talking about the Throttle Position Sensor?
Thank you
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
Youre awesome thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thank you for sharing, my truck, is having the same problem
Was that bad sensor throwing a check engine light. I'm having same problem, no acceleration, especially uphill, but no check engine light? Great video, thanks
Something that can cause similar issues as far as throttle response is the throttle body intake gasket. Cheap and pretty easy to fix.
sir eliot left side of the throatle my f150 1994 its leaking water, what can that be?
I'm guessing you have a 302 v8 motor? I have 4.9 6 cylinder and I'm pretty sure there would be no coolant near the throttle assembly. I found some people saying they have coolant leaking out of *freeze plugs* near the throttle on the 302 v8. These are also being called throttle body heater hoses or throttle body heater bore plugs. Good luck, that was just a guess lol.
Some Fords would preheat the throttle body with antifreeze. It was a way to help fuel atomize when the engine was cold.
Think of it as an alternative to the intake snorkel found on many carb and TBI engines.
Changed ALL that shit still stuck with the same result. Even changed my CAT and coolant temperature sensor. I think the MAP is the last thing that I can change. Crossing my fingers or else this baby is getting the hanger.
you should have tested sensors with a simple voltage multi tester, very easy to do, 5 volts. simple... wow..
That was very helpful...thank you. There is a vacuum driven heater motor just to the left of MAP sensor (top left corner if you're facing the firewall). I think it opends the vents inside the cabin. The vacuum hose is broken off n I dont know where it connects to. Any suggestions?
Connects to the small can that has a lever on it, it is on the far right in plain sight if it is a F150.
thank you for this video buddy! mine was doin this exact thing!!
Thank you so sr at work for me❤️❤️❤️
I'm guessing you changed the throttle body gasket? These are famous for distorting causing these symptoms. There was a recall on that as well as the failure of the twin tank design.
I hate to say but I may not have anymore videos on my ford. Someone boosted in when I stopped at QT on my way to the fire station, I had all my fire gear in it. If you happen to see a white ford 1993 f150 like the one in the video with license plate DKB-4848 please alert the authorities. It’s also posted on Facebook.
I loved that truck so if you would keep your eyes open for it that would mean a lot to me.
Brutal man! That sucks! I ahd a 93 f150 that got rear ended and totaled. Had 342 000 miles.
Was just telling my neighbor it is probably a map sensor, he's replaced everything you did that's the last piece.
a simple multi tester and you can test these sensors for the 5 volts to 0 volts range they should have. never just blindly toss new parts at a motor.,.... just stupid..
In case you don't know, if you have to check or adjust your timing do nit use the timing marks on the timing gear cover. It's not going to work. Look on the passenger side about 9 o clock on the harmonic balancer. There us a long bolt on plate that has many notches and a round hole like a peep hole. The large V is 10 degrees before top dead center. The balancer will have a large square notch cut out of the back side. That is not your timing mark. There will be a small shallow groove scribed on the back side. That is your mark you'll want to put white paint on and don't forget to pull the spout from the leads coming from the distributor or on the driverside firewall. It's a Grey square plug that jumps the two leads when installed.
😂😂😂😂 you sound like me everything I just did..... tell me it's the regulator? Lol (still watching).....
was the check engine light on
I got a 1990 F150 4.9 liter. Had head rebuilt and changed all sensors and about everything else. 2 new fuel pumps. It runs good for about half an hour or so then starts trying to miss a little bit. I can't figure it out. Any idea??
How is the distributor cap, coil, and spark plugs? Recently replaced?
Also maybe consider O2 sensor.
That’s a tough one. I’m not really sure just spit balling some ideas to try and help.
@BeePerky Thanks but I have replaced all of those.
@@JohnSmith-cf4gn any error codes or lights throwing once it starts running rough after 30 minutes?
@@JohnSmith-cf4gn also what type of transmission and can you give a little more description on what it’s doing after 30 minutes? Is it in normal operating temperature before it starts acting up?
@BeePerky Normal temperature. Just has a miss. Thinking about it, I didn't change the distributor cap. I don't know if that would be it since it runs so good before it starts acting up.
I just replaced Plugs wires cap rotor coil egr valve and ICM getting a few codes and an IDM to PCM connection error.. Yes we have a reader that kinda works. It has different cartridges like a gameboy console that plug in. Funny as hell but it did work until it lost connection to the computer.
Did all that fix your truck or is it still having issues?
@@BeePerky everything made it a little better but now we are focused on the control valve. We cleaned it and I can now drive it around the block but it does still have a little sputter. I need to clean some more contacts on the throttle position sensor.
Let me know how it’s goes! I’m cheering for you and it sounds like you’re on the right direction.
Sometimes those MAP sensors will get wet after heavy rain, when mine started doing the same thing I took it out hit it with some carb cleaner and scrubbed with a small metal brush Althea hit it again with the carb cleaner let it sit for a bit plug her back in. Runs good til now and I forgot what it was last time, we did have heavy rain 2 maybe 3 days back, I’m pretty sure if I remove it gonna have a bucket of water in it
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It comes with a black pouch. It has a cigarette lighter cable. EBAY has it.
I pulled the codes on mine, OBD1, MAP and O2 were in the stored code, I replaced the MAP with no change, I've yet to replace the O2 but sense its the TPS, could be vacuum leak, I need to pull the doghouse and get a better look at them.
Thanks! Very helpful. Cheers
I’m having misfire and hard acceleration after driving it parking it and starting it back up again. Codes are misfire cyl 1, system lean, o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2. Replaced distributor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter. Still having same issue
Did your check engine light ever come on? I have a 93 5.0 acting alot like this. P.S . My check engine light does not come on.
That blu Ray quality tho
Thank you sir!
I sprayed my TB with the seafoam treatment, bad idea... I may have screwed up my MAP sensor because all your symptoms are very similar to mine... I’ll try to clean up all the vacuum hoses ASAP!!!
Thanks!!!
I have the same motor in my 89 bronco it will crank over and act like its going to fire then go back to just cranking do you no what this could be wrong I had the same hesitation with idle
I’m having same issues with my 1996 f150 5.0 v8 would it be the maf sensor?
Thank you so much I've been having the same problem with my truck its been turning off and having the rpms fluctuate just like that ima try this and see if it works
hey henry. my truck keeps stalling and rpm also fluctuates .did the map sensor fix your issues??
My truck left me stranded in the winter with 2 kids 15deg after I thought it was fixed. Luckily I am good in the woods. Never drive the truck anywhere in fear it will leave me stuck. Seems like a common problem why isn’t this more known. Thanks a bunch pal
Johnny Cash it wasn’t the map sensor for me it was the distributor pickup coil it was cutting out electricity to my motor it’s 15 dollars and a quick fix I drive a 95 f150 flareside and I couldn’t find the map sensor look in owners Manuel checked online look at every possible location it could be in and couldn’t find it. I also recommend change IAC.
James Hatfield hey James sorry to hear your having problems with ur truck I have a 95 f150 flareside couldn’t find map sensor checked everywhere and ownerns manual and couldn’t find it but the issue my truck was having was the distributor pickup coil sensor it’s 15 dollar fix and easy to do. That way kept cutting out electricity to my motor if not giving very little I also recommend to do a tune up so change spark plugs, etc. and also change iac valve sensor and the piece I mentioned and your truck should be running brand new hopefully
My 4.9 bronco has that identical problem starting cold issue. I basically replaced everything except that
I literally did what you have done. This is nuts.
the large style '90s ford MAP sensors are very common for this issue. many different motors and models of cars and trucks ford.
Helped so much. Does anyone know where the vacuum line is to fuel sensor? I want to go ahead and change it also but the MAP sensor fixed it immediately
fuel tank pressure sensor has no vacuum line. it is totally electrical....
I had one that ran like crap on startup on the front tank but ran great on the rear tank turned out to be the fuel pump in the front tank not having enough pressure so if you try this and it doesn't work that could be the issue
I'm having the same issues with my 88 F-150 it will idle in park but not great shuts off in gear less I'm I'm giving it gas, runs at highway speeds with only a little throttle hesitation... I replaced everything you pointed out including the map sensor...and no change...
Have u tryed the knock sensor inbetween the coil and the distributor? Unplug it see if it makes a difference.
all the knock sensor does it listen for knocking in the motor and retards timing if there is any., if you unplug it nd the motor speeds up any then it is probly messed up. but these are not high failure part. dont just toss random new parts on withotu a multi tester to test voltages at each sensor. waste of time and $$$ and is dumb.