OUT OF EVERY DAMN VIDEO IVE WATCHED TO FIX MY MOTHER IN LAWS 96 F150 5.0 YOU SIR FIGURED OUT WHAT I WAS DOING WRONG !!! NONODY SAYS TO UNHOOK THE BATTERY !!!! I replaced the vacuumed hoses and the throttle positioning sensor and the throttle control valve and it STILL kept idling very high !!! But then after cussing up a storm on the couple hundred dollars I just spent on her truck I stumbled on your video and did EXACTLY that and unhooked the battery for 10 minutes and IT WORKED !!!!!!!!! I’m standing right here beside it right now purring like a kitten ...... my God the battery just needed to be unhooked and reset the computer was ALL I didn’t do after replacing all those parts. Man I can’t thank you enough ..... thank you from New Orleans Louisiana !!!!
Man I replace my throttle body last week after 16 years of running crazy lack of power and hard shifting its finally fixed...but I got to try the battery trick my truck is pooping and skipping every since I sprayed the throttle body cleaner in it😡
the easiest way to check for vacuum leaks is to build your own smoke machine. i looked up how to build one here on you tube and it works great i found a leak i never thought of. it was in the cab with the vacuum line that goes through the a/c and heater box on the passenger side of engine compartment to the a/c and heater controls, . trust me that little smoke machine saved me a lot of time and money
Very helpful video. Had replaced my TPS on 1996 F-150 5.0 liter and startup idle was still high. Disconnected battery for 15 minutes, started up and drove around for a few miles - idle is back down where it belongs at 6-700. Thanks for posting.
That's just parts changing....1. check for vacuum leaks. not fixed/ 2. take throttle body off and check/set the electrical limits. Until you do both of these you are chasing your tail. (NOTE if you have lots of "issues" check the wiring harness connection at the firewall on the drivers side. Unplug, Clean male and female sides with a NYLON bristle brush and ELECTRONIC cleaner. Check operations. Then BEGIN the real trouble shooting. I'd say to spent the $300.00 and change the ECM !. Pay attention to ECM part numbers and YOUR vehicle i.e. FED emissions vs CA emission, etc.
Thank you for this video is very helpful I got more understanding on why my bronco hesitates to start up and when it does it idle super high up 20000 rpms I’ll be doing the same exact thing you did. Thank you once again
I finally fixed mine. I took a sledgehammer to the entire engine and then pulled it out and tossed it in the dump. I have replaced everything and nothing helped. I am just putting a all new engine in. Over my 89 f150 5.0 302..
biggest problem people have with these engines is the coolant temp sensor going bad. there are 2. one goes to the gauge , the other to the computer. the one under the throttle body goes to the computer. it triggers a failsafe or limp mode condition , in my 90 model would not restart after shutting off until some time passed and cooled off. intervals got longer until it wouldn't start even cold. on my 92 e350 the engine went into limp mode, max speed 30mph felt like running out of gas or bad fuel pump, changed $25 sensor and runs fine. need a 1in deep well socket and ext. 2clips on connector makes it kinda hard to get off, a lot of mechanics can't figure this out for some reason. none of my 40 plus year plus old fords have ever needed a fuel pump.
Perhaps instead of using the technical names like "that thing there" and "this thing here", change to the antiquated common names for parts. :-) I watched the video to get the name of the part on the right side, which I failed to write down on a mission 6 months ago to fix an idling problem on my 90 F350 5.8L. But, you have the same parts on yours as I do. I did like the video though.
I cleaned it out, reset the computer and ran it for 30 mins and it fixed it tell i started the truck again. I have replaced the throttle body sensor. I cleaned the other thing too
im having an issue with my 95 5.8l bronco... I notice when i do some mild to moderate off roading my bronco doesnt like it too much after I get back on the street it starts sputtering and acting like it wants to shut off.. especially when I lean into the accelerator
Me too, on my 5.8 bronco. Im replacing my throttle body since the springs on top are shot. I have a new throttle position sensor and map sensor, im having the same problem, going to install new throttle body unit and see what happens
To be honest that’s the most simple thing to check but that can be a mini of different things. Your throttle plates could be bent allowing too much air to go in, your intake manifold could be bent, you could have faulty fuel injectors, there is a lot of things that could be wrong with it
i have a 1989 Ford Bronco 302 ci Full size, when i drive the truck for 15 minutes or so, i'll stop at a light and the idle goes up & down and wants to stall, What would cause this ??? Please give your thoughts ... HELP ?
@@bigkountry8977 Thanks So much for replying, i put a New Throttle position sencor on over a yr ago, it runs great until it warms up at lights it want to stall, when i set the timing i loosen the distributor bolt i can turn it, you have to set the timing when it is at driving temp, i can't turn the distributor when the engine is warn up i guess the metal expands i never had a vehicle that does this, , yeah i cleaned it up when i had the throttle body off, disconnecting the Batt, is suppose to clear the Computer, i use to do this with GMs again thanks i'll follow the video and see what happens...
Thanks for replying... i Put a new TPS on, now it does the opposite, Now when i start it , it wants to stall after a short time 3 minutes or so it runs great, i think you are right about a Vacuum, i have to look harder.... could a EGR Valve cause it ?
@bejais The old process of elimination, LOL yeah i have done that before, i bought this truck in 1990 it's a 89' it has 107,000 Now, i know it in side & out, i took it to Yale Michigan 90 miles one way this past summer it always ran great, it must be a cracked Vacuum, or something simple, i am 62 yrs old now, i liked the cars back in the day 60s & early 70s Man those cars were so easy to figure out.... times have sure changed...
OUT OF EVERY DAMN VIDEO IVE WATCHED TO FIX MY MOTHER IN LAWS 96 F150 5.0 YOU SIR FIGURED OUT WHAT I WAS DOING WRONG !!! NONODY SAYS TO UNHOOK THE BATTERY !!!! I replaced the vacuumed hoses and the throttle positioning sensor and the throttle control valve and it STILL kept idling very high !!! But then after cussing up a storm on the couple hundred dollars I just spent on her truck I stumbled on your video and did EXACTLY that and unhooked the battery for 10 minutes and IT WORKED !!!!!!!!! I’m standing right here beside it right now purring like a kitten ...... my God the battery just needed to be unhooked and reset the computer was ALL I didn’t do after replacing all those parts. Man I can’t thank you enough ..... thank you from New Orleans Louisiana !!!!
Thomas Schuler please subscribe man thanks for the comment buddy
Man I replace my throttle body last week after 16 years of running crazy lack of power and hard shifting its finally fixed...but I got to try the battery trick my truck is pooping and skipping every since I sprayed the throttle body cleaner in it😡
the easiest way to check for vacuum leaks is to build your own smoke machine. i looked up how to build one here on you tube and it works great i found a leak i never thought of. it was in the cab with the vacuum line that goes through the a/c and heater box on the passenger side of engine compartment to the a/c and heater controls, . trust me that little smoke machine saved me a lot of time and money
Thank you very much for your support and information. I'm having the same problem with my truck.
Thanks just bought all the sensor because I did not know to reset the computer. This was very helpful. 👍
Very helpful video. Had replaced my TPS on 1996 F-150 5.0 liter and startup idle was still high. Disconnected battery for 15 minutes, started up and drove around for a few miles - idle is back down where it belongs at 6-700. Thanks for posting.
Did you only disconnect the negative cable only on the battery or both positive and negative?
Great video I have a Ford Econoline doing the same thing I'm about to try that now it's a 96 by the way
That's just parts changing....1. check for vacuum leaks. not fixed/ 2. take throttle body off and check/set the electrical limits. Until you do both of these you are chasing your tail. (NOTE if you have lots of "issues" check the wiring harness connection at the firewall on the drivers side. Unplug, Clean male and female sides with a NYLON bristle brush and ELECTRONIC cleaner. Check operations. Then BEGIN the real trouble shooting. I'd say to spent the $300.00 and change the ECM !. Pay attention to ECM part numbers and YOUR vehicle i.e. FED emissions vs CA emission, etc.
Thank you for this video is very helpful I got more understanding on why my bronco hesitates to start up and when it does it idle super high up 20000 rpms I’ll be doing the same exact thing you did. Thank you once again
Raul Chavez no problem if you need any help message me
That's the same thing my 1989 E 350 is doing. It's an old church van that got no love.
I finally fixed mine. I took a sledgehammer to the entire engine and then pulled it out and tossed it in the dump. I have replaced everything and nothing helped. I am just putting a all new engine in. Over my 89 f150 5.0 302..
Thanks for the video wish I seen it before I spent so much money but you saved me much more. Who new just disconnect the battery. Problem solved
biggest problem people have with these engines is the coolant temp sensor going bad. there are 2. one goes to the gauge , the other to the computer. the one under the throttle body goes to the computer. it triggers a failsafe or limp mode condition , in my 90 model would not restart after shutting off until some time passed and cooled off. intervals got longer until it wouldn't start even cold. on my 92 e350 the engine went into limp mode, max speed 30mph felt like running out of gas or bad fuel pump, changed $25 sensor and runs fine. need a 1in deep well socket and ext. 2clips on connector makes it kinda hard to get off, a lot of mechanics can't figure this out for some reason. none of my 40 plus year plus old fords have ever needed a fuel pump.
Any chance you could provide some more information on this? I want to replace mine and want to know what to look for.
Mine was a combination of TPS and ignition control module. And yes I had to modify new TPS and dial it in with my multimeter
Perhaps instead of using the technical names like "that thing there" and "this thing here", change to the antiquated common names for parts. :-) I watched the video to get the name of the part on the right side, which I failed to write down on a mission 6 months ago to fix an idling problem on my 90 F350 5.8L. But, you have the same parts on yours as I do. I did like the video though.
Right side part looks like an Idle Air Control Valve.
@@Morp-f1u that's what it is and the one on the underside is the throttle position sensor I believe.
I cleaned it out, reset the computer and ran it for 30 mins and it fixed it tell i started the truck again. I have replaced the throttle body sensor. I cleaned the other thing too
mine has the same thing right now i did a full tuneup and deep clean n degrease
I wonder if the spacer they sell is good or just a waste of money
Once you put that new tps sensor is necessary to readjust it ??
Good knowledge
Thank you.
If I got a little bit of car cleaner in that motor or if I happen to get it wet could that cause my vehicle to idle high also I have a 89 Ford f250.
On the transmission shifter cable what do you mean when you say you clip it ?
Grab it on both sides and stretch it away from the cable and it'll pop right off
I have 92 ford f250 with a5.8 when I start up it start up and idles good but when I step on gas peddle it shuts off
Start with a fuel filter first. Cheap and easy.
thats how I started and now I'm into a MAF, TPS and IAC replacement. my 9/32" vacuum tube was bad so I replaced it.
Bang Bang Bang shot gun diagnostics, gotta love it!
throttle body sensor? is that a bear to replace?
It’s about 4 bolts and a philips head screw and a plug in, not hard at all
Please turn your phone horizontal thanks for the vid.
I regret selling my brick nose F-150
im having an issue with my 95 5.8l bronco... I notice when i do some mild to moderate off roading my bronco doesnt like it too much after I get back on the street it starts sputtering and acting like it wants to shut off.. especially when I lean into the accelerator
Did you find the problem I'm having a similar issue with my 94 5.8l bronco.
Me too, on my 5.8 bronco. Im replacing my throttle body since the springs on top are shot. I have a new throttle position sensor and map sensor, im having the same problem, going to install new throttle body unit and see what happens
Try your air filters to guys, that can always be a problem, and try changing y’all’s fuel filters
And check your fuel injectors
I have an 88' Ford f150 and sometimes I have to turn it over 3 or 4 times before it starts and I can't get nobody to tell me how to fix it.
Check your injectors
Wait a min the 1988 has a computer?.. I just bought a Ford
Yea not as advanced as you think, anything electronic has a computer
Anything with a fuel injection system will, so 1986 and up
What kind of 351 is it
351 w
@@georgecummings3227 ty sir
What would make the engine backfire through exhaust after putting that on?
Your hair to fule to ignition ratio is off
Air*
Air, fuel to combustion* sorry
To be honest that’s the most simple thing to check but that can be a mini of different things. Your throttle plates could be bent allowing too much air to go in, your intake manifold could be bent, you could have faulty fuel injectors, there is a lot of things that could be wrong with it
@@bigkountry8977 Oops just seen... Okay how do i fix it?
Mine has high idle I think tps I put new on and every since then can’t get the idle down
Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
Therevis No Sound!
Half of your facts of telling what's what is completely wrong!
i have a 1989 Ford Bronco 302 ci Full size, when i drive the truck for 15 minutes or so, i'll stop at a light and the idle goes up & down and wants to stall, What would cause this ??? Please give your thoughts ... HELP ?
D J, thats process in the video will fix it. The throttle position sensor or the gunked up throttle plate
@@bigkountry8977 Thanks So much for replying, i put a New Throttle position sencor on over a yr ago, it runs great until it warms up at lights it want to stall, when i set the timing i loosen the distributor bolt i can turn it, you have to set the timing when it is at driving temp, i can't turn the distributor when the engine is warn up i guess the metal expands i never had a vehicle that does this, , yeah i cleaned it up when i had the throttle body off, disconnecting the Batt, is suppose to clear the Computer, i use to do this with GMs again thanks i'll follow the video and see what happens...
Thanks for replying... i Put a new TPS on, now it does the opposite, Now when i start it , it wants to stall after a short time 3 minutes or so it runs great, i think you are right about a Vacuum, i have to look harder.... could a EGR Valve cause it ?
@bejais a week ago i pulled a code for the EGR
@bejais The old process of elimination, LOL yeah i have done that before, i bought this truck in 1990 it's a 89' it has 107,000 Now, i know it in side & out, i took it to Yale Michigan 90 miles one way this past summer it always ran great, it must be a cracked Vacuum, or something simple, i am 62 yrs old now, i liked the cars back in the day 60s & early 70s Man those cars were so easy to figure out.... times have sure changed...
Putting freon 92 f150
.....shifting and all that other crap,,,,,,,,,,
Can you speak some english
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