Fantastic video, wouldn't have been able to complete the job with out it. Didn't remove the prop shaft which added about 4 hours to the job!! But got there in the end. Thanks.
Just a note to say thanks and that this was very helpful. We have a 2011 FL2 SD4 and it unfortunately has the collar around the tailshaft. Appreciated your trick of knocking a small bolt through the back to dislodge it as ours was well stuck. At 160,000km (100,000Mi) the internals were fairly clean with only a little sludge in the pump pickup. In my case I chose to split the whole haldex off the diff and replace the large o-ring between. Having done that it took the full two tubes of Ravenol oil to fill. And why on earth didn't they put a drain in the diff (yeah yeah - lifetime fill).
A really clear, concise and professional vid for the diy'er. thanks so much. Just about to tackle a replacement exchange diff and wondered if I would need to change the Haldex oil/filter as well? This was only serviced about a thousand miles ago. Would appreciate your advice.
Thank you very much! Glad you found it usefull. When replacing your Haldex you will need to fill with oil anyway as the shafts have been removed. I personally would do an oil and filter on the haldex too as when they have not been serviced for a while new oil acts as a cleaner so can get contaminated quickly. Better to be safe as you will know they dont come cheap!
Thanks Paul. I am doing really well and suprising myself with the recovery. Using my downtime well to edit videos for youtube 😂. Hope your doing well. I should be good for Peterbrough if I carry on 👌
Great video and very informative, can I ask what are the symptoms of an Haldex needing a service, is there anything obvious the Evoque will do or not do? My evoque has a problem when cold and the rear wheels seem to lock for a second or 2 when pulling away causing a bit of judder. Could this be related at all?
Yes that sounds like the the spring inside that engages the clutch plates is sticking. That is caused by a build up of sludge for lack of servicing. Cheapest thing you can do is service it like in the video (replacing the filter and cleaning the pump out) if it cures the problem then service it again after a few month as all the oil will do is clean out all the sludge and get contaminated.
@@lifes.projects thanks for the info. It was serviced a few months ago by the previous owners garage according to the paperwork but clearly or maybe not well enough as its only done 4k miles since noticed it does the judder more in reverse generallt and in drive when cold only. Do you know anyone in Northants that could do the work and service it by any chance? Thanks again
@@stevepaul3674servicing doesn’t always cure the judder. It’s caused by the clutch plates inside the unit not releasing. Sometimes only a recon unit will cure it.
Thank you. You can use the dealers but most specialist Land Rover shops will get you the correct spec/the same oil as genuine but without the JLR logo. I use LRS off road in Doncaster. They will happily post everything direct to you.
Hello friend, I have some doubts, it has two types of oil, each one is individual to the other, what types of oil does my Ranger Rover evoque have? It vibrates in the rear when turning and accelerating.
I was just wondering: Would changing the fluid in frequent intervals also clear out the sludge and therefore making the entire operation of removing the pump obsolete or nearly as good?
@@MotorScotti Yes it would make it much better however still wouldnt get rid of the sludge completely as the pump sits in the lowest point so naturally all the crap the filter dosent catch will settle there
Thanks for the video. Is the front of the prop shaft bolted in, or does it slide out after removing the rear torn bolts. I guess the front is just a splined shaft?
@@flymoracer Yes the front Prop joint is bolted in with external Torque Bolts to the PTU (Transfer Box) Flange. If you are wanting to remove the flange from the PTU you need to remove the propshaft to gain access to the large Nut Holding it onto the PTU Output Shaft. Hope that makes sense.
Bonjour tt d'abord merci pour cette excellente vidéo . J ai une question pour vous est ce que c'est le même système haldex pour la génération 2015 avec le moteur ingenium . Merci d'avance
Hi I recently Got my Range Rover Evoque Rear Differential Fluid Done, when I asked for haldex service they were confused. My question is if I did the Rear Differential oil change , but haven’t done the haldex but I’m planning do it, Will I need to do them together or I’m good. My car is 10 years old I’m planning to replace the unit the haldex pump since it’s probably needs a replacement as well. Also when should this replace every often?
Unless the pump is defect, don't replace it. Just follow service as the video shows. The oil in the rear diff is very easy to replace, as it the ptu in the front (power transfer unit). What you need for the Haldex is an ORIGINAL filter service kit, not from Land Rover, because they don't sell it. But from Volvo. same price as an unoriginal set, and the original set fits. The spring is the correct length, bolts are better etc. So NOT gt the aftermarket kit. I repeat: do NOT get the aftermarket kit. As shown in the video, it is not enough to jsut replace the oil and the filter in the Haldex unit. It is just as important to take the motor off, unscrew that particular filter and clean it all out as shown. Likewise on the Haldex casting itself, there may be a lot of dirt and sludge. If you have just changed the rear diff oil, don't change it again, but in due time. If, on the other hand, it's been a while, just do them all: ptu in the front, the Haldex and the rear diff. Also, you should drain and flush the gearbox (auto?), or change the oil if a stick manual gearbox. Also, drain and flush the cooling system. It really pays to do so. Takes a bit of time, as you do 4 complete circles of draining and refilling, both on the coolant and on the automatic Aishin AW21 gearbox. But it is not difficult at all. If yo don't have a suction device, just go to the nearest auto part store, and get a small electric one, plus a few meters of clear tubing. It's quite cheap. This will help very easily drain what ever you need to drain. The bolt for the gearbox filland drain plugs are a certain size. So need a special top for that (Torx 65?) I don't remember it off the top of my head. But they are easily found and won't cost much. It can be a bit narrow to unscrew the refill bolt on the gearbox (automatic), so two long extensions on a 3/8 socket set or 1/2" with a joint in between, is most welcome here. It sounds complicated, but is not at all. It takes a Saturday to do them all and the car will thank you for it. It is easily doable yourself. Get proper oil, not some cheap aftermarket crap. Good brands only. and while at it, change the engine oil and oil filter every 6000 km, and the motor is happy always. If, on the other hand, you don't service all these things, gearshifting is sloppy and searching/hunting, Haldex breaks down and rear diff crunches at some point. Do it regularely. Engine oil every 6000 km, and minimum once per year, and cooling system, brake fluid, gearbox, ptu, Haldex and rear diff every 3'rd year. Then you will see, that Land Rover is quite reliable, contrary to common belief ;) Use forums to get more info and download the original Land Rover service manual for free. Kind regards.
Good video, but you should have shown more of the reassembly of the internals of the Haldex motor, as that suddenly popped back together, without showing what goes where and how to position the bits. Maybe some advice? Also, it looks like a gen. 4 Haldex? Kind regards
Hi, How do I find out what Gen my Haldex Pump is Without crawling under the Car? Will a Gen5 fit where a Gen4 was fitted? I went on Scuderia & put in my VIN & it gave me a JLR Part Number of LR075763 but a LR008958 also fits!!! JLR seem to update their part numbers on a daily basis. I don't want to buy the wrong one...I have a MY2014 Pure 2.2 Diesel with a 9-Speed Gearbox.... I had my Haldex Pump replaced under warranty in 2016, but it looks to have failed again.....So I'm biting the bullet & getting a Pump & Filter Kit just in case..... Very informative Video by the way....
@@peterromaniuk5771 Thank you. So so from 2011 to 2015 they are all generation 4 haldex and pump. From 2015 onwards they are all generation 6. Yours should be a generation 6 but worth checking when the car was registered as some 2015s have the gen 4 haldex systems
@@lifes.projects Hi, Thanks for your Reply, Mine was first registered in May 2014 so it's on a 14-Plate, in that case can I assume it is a Gen 4? I've seen Gen 5's advertised on eBay when were these fitted?? Hadn't realised that there was a Gen 6!!!!
@@peterromaniuk5771 yes i would assume yours is a gen 4 but having the 9 speed auto it wouldnt suprise me if its a gen 5 as that is the newer gearbox that was fitted to the facelift models along with gen 5 haldex. Worth having a look before you order parts as its close to the year change
May I ask what method and solution did you use to clean the haldex casing inside while it was in situ with clutch packs etc still in? Did you just spray the orfices with parts cleaner and let dry before putting oil back in? Or just cleaned what you could externally reach? Thank you.
Brake cleaner and cloth arounf the filter and pump housing, let it drain and dry out before refillinh. Unless you are having problems to warrant a strip down then just a general clean and another oil change after 10k miles
@@lifes.projects thanks for the reply I really appreciate it. I suspected that’s what to do but I was not sure if any cleaner would impact the clutch pack or if it would even manage to get in there when cleaning the galleys/ orfices. Cheers mate 🙏
@lifes.projects Fantastic video. Thank you so much. We bought our 2007 FL2 recently and discovered the rear diff had gone. It took me 15 hours to get the thing off (novice). I’ve fitted the Haldex to the diff, but can you tell me am I putting oil in two places please - the Haldex AND the diff? It’s a Gen 3 Haldex, I believe. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Thank you. Yes the Diff is seperate and unforortunately dosent have a drain plug. If you have had the diff off I will assume its empty anyway. The filler is a 13mm bolt to the rear of the driveshaft on the nearside half way up the casing. The oil is 80w 90 GL5. Towards the end of the video I go over the diff quickly. Its not clear where I am pointing but it will give you an idea.
@@lifes.projects thank you so much. So the oil for the Haldex actually goes in via the diff block and the diff oil goes in the filler at the back of the diff! I’ve taken a picture but can’t seem to share for others. Really very helpful - thank you so much. Turned out the diff filler was caked in mud on the old unit so couldn’t see it was there. Thanks again - got me right out of trouble 😅
@@davegilesuk Yes completely seperate filler bolts. The front one is for the haldex and the one to the rear of the nearside driveshaft is for the diff. No problem glad its helped you out 👍
Thank you. Yes there is more room to access the haldex on a freelander 2. Most fl2 dont have the rubber donut on the input shaft so you can also remove the pump without having to remove the prop. Much prefer doing them on a fl2 in all honesty 😂
Hi Liam They average around 200 depending on your location. Not sure how much garages charge around Manchester and unfortunately dont know of any specialists around there either.
Quite possible to be the diff bearings however the wheel bearings make the same noise when they wear out. Easiest thing to do is jack up the real wheels and spin them. That way you can see where the npise is coming from. 👍
On the diff no. Usually that indicateds worn bearings. If you have no unusual noises then you might have caught it just intime before the shavings start to contaminate the oil
@@lifes.projects thanks , I am at 44,000km and worried because i seeing it recomend at 30,000km, I am waiting on my parts to be shipped , very grateful for your video
2013?? That's rediculious the amount of rust that's formed on this motor. I've a 2013 4 motion VW Tiguan and there's none at all. Says alot about what manufacturers underbody protection is superior.. Apart from that, good upload. My motor has the haldex system, probably needs the same service..
Its the fuel tank guard thats notorious on the Evoque. Its acts as a water trap. My mates got a 2015 Tiguan thats in the same state underneath. Looks like its been parked in the sea 😂. All depends on where abouts in the country they have lived really.
Thank you for this video. before that i drove a porsche cayenne, the underbody looked like new even though it was 18 years old. but your car looks really rusty from underneath. I hope mine doesn't look like this
Who the hell is this strange fella piddling about with Eurobox Landys then?.....Seems a mite familiar!......Great to see you upping vids again Tom, hope the recuperation is going well mate....oh, and stop farting about with those newer toys and show us the Series you've got in the back :)
Haha thank you. Using the downtime well and trying to get back into the youtibe milarky. Oh yes thats a Series 1 in the background, currently waiting for a new wiring loom and some other bits to get that done. I have a 2A to do as well (not one for the purists either 😄)
Absolutely not mechanic friendly car. Customers complain of high labor charges not know the extent of work on Range Rover cars comparing to Japanese or American cars
Jacked the Car Up today & took a Picture of the Installed Haldex Unit, It has a Part Number of HA1/113430/1.13.048.401.02 Dated 02--09-2016 with 08-38-57 Made In Germany, It Looks like a GEN4, But when I Google, it says that it is for a Volvo? What Do you think?
The position of the motor is different and also look at the filter position. On gen. 4, it's moved a bit. So take a look at pictures on the web, of both. The filter for the Haldex is longer for the gen. 4. Both can be bought ORIGINAL from Volvo, as they also use them on XC 90-70-60 etc. models. About same price as non-fitting aftermarket parts. Trust me, I've been there. Never again. There is a date when they changed from gen. 3 to 4, but I can't remember it, and there may be cars that was built before and after that date with the opposite Haldex coupling. So just take a look at pictures. But looking at your production date, I'd say it's surely a gen. 4 Haldex. Your nearest Volvo dealership have the right part ready within the same day; I had that good service. As I remember it, Haldex was made by Borg/Warner, but was sold on. No worries though. Just use original Volvo parts from a Volvo dealership, as they are original Borg/Warner. NOT aftermarket parts for this purpose. These have wrong spring, bad bad bolts and a slightly different design. Not to use. Be warned. Seriously. Kind regards.
Fantastic video, wouldn't have been able to complete the job with out it. Didn't remove the prop shaft which added about 4 hours to the job!! But got there in the end. Thanks.
Thank you! Glad its helped you out 👍
Just a note to say thanks and that this was very helpful. We have a 2011 FL2 SD4 and it unfortunately has the collar around the tailshaft. Appreciated your trick of knocking a small bolt through the back to dislodge it as ours was well stuck. At 160,000km (100,000Mi) the internals were fairly clean with only a little sludge in the pump pickup. In my case I chose to split the whole haldex off the diff and replace the large o-ring between. Having done that it took the full two tubes of Ravenol oil to fill. And why on earth didn't they put a drain in the diff (yeah yeah - lifetime fill).
I know right! I have no idea why they didn't fit a drain plug but its absolutely stupid!
Thank you. Glad it helped you out
All the way from Houston texas you are the best!!
@@BZuniga504 Thank you very much 👍
A really clear, concise and professional vid for the diy'er. thanks so much. Just about to tackle a replacement exchange diff and wondered if I would need to change the Haldex oil/filter as well? This was only serviced about a thousand miles ago. Would appreciate your advice.
Thank you very much! Glad you found it usefull.
When replacing your Haldex you will need to fill with oil anyway as the shafts have been removed.
I personally would do an oil and filter on the haldex too as when they have not been serviced for a while new oil acts as a cleaner so can get contaminated quickly.
Better to be safe as you will know they dont come cheap!
Your video is good. It is the car that I am talking about. Well done for the video and the hard job that could be simplified by the Land Rover factory
Thank You. A drain/sump plug would have been nice. No idea why they don't have one.
Great to see you back, great video and hope your well 👍🏼
Thanks Paul. I am doing really well and suprising myself with the recovery. Using my downtime well to edit videos for youtube 😂.
Hope your doing well. I should be good for Peterbrough if I carry on 👌
Another good video , well done with the explanation
Thank You! It can be a tricky one to explain
Great video, thank you.
Great video and very informative, can I ask what are the symptoms of an Haldex needing a service, is there anything obvious the Evoque will do or not do? My evoque has a problem when cold and the rear wheels seem to lock for a second or 2 when pulling away causing a bit of judder. Could this be related at all?
Yes that sounds like the the spring inside that engages the clutch plates is sticking. That is caused by a build up of sludge for lack of servicing.
Cheapest thing you can do is service it like in the video (replacing the filter and cleaning the pump out) if it cures the problem then service it again after a few month as all the oil will do is clean out all the sludge and get contaminated.
@@lifes.projects thanks for the info. It was serviced a few months ago by the previous owners garage according to the paperwork but clearly or maybe not well enough as its only done 4k miles since noticed it does the judder more in reverse generallt and in drive when cold only. Do you know anyone in Northants that could do the work and service it by any chance? Thanks again
@@stevepaul3674servicing doesn’t always cure the judder. It’s caused by the clutch plates inside the unit not releasing. Sometimes only a recon unit will cure it.
how many litres of oil does the front differential take?
brilliant video thanks..... any tips on where to get the oil and filter kit from? Direct from Landrover or aftermarket shop?
Thank you. You can use the dealers but most specialist Land Rover shops will get you the correct spec/the same oil as genuine but without the JLR logo. I use LRS off road in Doncaster. They will happily post everything direct to you.
Hello friend, I have some doubts, it has two types of oil, each one is individual to the other, what types of oil does my Ranger Rover evoque have? It vibrates in the rear when turning and accelerating.
Check its age. That determines the model of Haldex fitted.
I was just wondering: Would changing the fluid in frequent intervals also clear out the sludge and therefore making the entire operation of removing the pump obsolete or nearly as good?
@@MotorScotti Yes it would make it much better however still wouldnt get rid of the sludge completely as the pump sits in the lowest point so naturally all the crap the filter dosent catch will settle there
Nice one Tom been waiting for this one for a while, all the best 👍 👌
Thanks Robin. Using my downtime well to get get all thest videos sorted out 😄.
Doing really well at the minute and looking forward to been back to it
Thanks for the video. Is the front of the prop shaft bolted in, or does it slide out after removing the rear torn bolts. I guess the front is just a splined shaft?
@@flymoracer Yes the front Prop joint is bolted in with external Torque Bolts to the PTU (Transfer Box) Flange. If you are wanting to remove the flange from the PTU you need to remove the propshaft to gain access to the large Nut Holding it onto the PTU Output Shaft.
Hope that makes sense.
@@lifes.projects yeah, sorry I meant at the front end of the vehicle, that end is just splined right? I didn’t see you remove that end in the video
@@flymoracer Yes its same as the diff. Propshaft bolts upto a flange thats is bolted onto a splibe in the ptu
Bonjour tt d'abord merci pour cette excellente vidéo .
J ai une question pour vous est ce que c'est le même système haldex pour la génération 2015 avec le moteur ingenium .
Merci d'avance
Very helpful and detailed video!😁👍🏻
Thank you 👍
Did mine last year dropped the rear box made things a lot easier didn’t have to remove the prop at the front ,still a pain in the ass to do ..
Hi I recently Got my Range Rover Evoque Rear Differential Fluid Done, when I asked for haldex service they were confused. My question is if I did the Rear Differential oil change , but haven’t done the haldex but I’m planning do it, Will I need to do them together or I’m good. My car is 10 years old I’m planning to replace the unit the haldex pump since it’s probably needs a replacement as well. Also when should this replace every often?
Unless the pump is defect, don't replace it. Just follow service as the video shows. The oil in the rear diff is very easy to replace, as it the ptu in the front (power transfer unit). What you need for the Haldex is an ORIGINAL filter service kit, not from Land Rover, because they don't sell it. But from Volvo. same price as an unoriginal set, and the original set fits. The spring is the correct length, bolts are better etc. So NOT gt the aftermarket kit. I repeat: do NOT get the aftermarket kit.
As shown in the video, it is not enough to jsut replace the oil and the filter in the Haldex unit. It is just as important to take the motor off, unscrew that particular filter and clean it all out as shown. Likewise on the Haldex casting itself, there may be a lot of dirt and sludge.
If you have just changed the rear diff oil, don't change it again, but in due time. If, on the other hand, it's been a while, just do them all: ptu in the front, the Haldex and the rear diff. Also, you should drain and flush the gearbox (auto?), or change the oil if a stick manual gearbox. Also, drain and flush the cooling system. It really pays to do so. Takes a bit of time, as you do 4 complete circles of draining and refilling, both on the coolant and on the automatic Aishin AW21 gearbox.
But it is not difficult at all. If yo don't have a suction device, just go to the nearest auto part store, and get a small electric one, plus a few meters of clear tubing. It's quite cheap. This will help very easily drain what ever you need to drain. The bolt for the gearbox filland drain plugs are a certain size. So need a special top for that (Torx 65?) I don't remember it off the top of my head. But they are easily found and won't cost much. It can be a bit narrow to unscrew the refill bolt on the gearbox (automatic), so two long extensions on a 3/8 socket set or 1/2" with a joint in between, is most welcome here.
It sounds complicated, but is not at all. It takes a Saturday to do them all and the car will thank you for it. It is easily doable yourself.
Get proper oil, not some cheap aftermarket crap. Good brands only. and while at it, change the engine oil and oil filter every 6000 km, and the motor is happy always.
If, on the other hand, you don't service all these things, gearshifting is sloppy and searching/hunting, Haldex breaks down and rear diff crunches at some point. Do it regularely. Engine oil every 6000 km, and minimum once per year, and cooling system, brake fluid, gearbox, ptu, Haldex and rear diff every 3'rd year. Then you will see, that Land Rover is quite reliable, contrary to common belief ;) Use forums to get more info and download the original Land Rover service manual for free.
Kind regards.
Good video, but you should have shown more of the reassembly of the internals of the Haldex motor, as that suddenly popped back together, without showing what goes where and how to position the bits. Maybe some advice?
Also, it looks like a gen. 4 Haldex?
Kind regards
Hi yes it can ve a little fiddly. Basically put it together the way it came apart. I lay everything out on the bench and put it together bit by bit
How did you get the drive shaft off? I cant get mine apart it’s the same that you have. Thanks
@@lukedevries9314 watch the vide from 2.00 to 2.20. You need to insert a 6mm bolt into the flange then knock it through with a hammer and chizel
Hi, How do I find out what Gen my Haldex Pump is Without crawling under the Car? Will a Gen5 fit where a Gen4 was fitted? I went on Scuderia & put in my VIN & it gave me a JLR Part Number of LR075763 but a LR008958 also fits!!! JLR seem to update their part numbers on a daily basis. I don't want to buy the wrong one...I have a MY2014 Pure 2.2 Diesel with a 9-Speed Gearbox....
I had my Haldex Pump replaced under warranty in 2016, but it looks to have failed again.....So I'm biting the bullet & getting a Pump & Filter Kit just in case.....
Very informative Video by the way....
@@peterromaniuk5771 Thank you. So so from 2011 to 2015 they are all generation 4 haldex and pump. From 2015 onwards they are all generation 6. Yours should be a generation 6 but worth checking when the car was registered as some 2015s have the gen 4 haldex systems
@@lifes.projects Hi, Thanks for your Reply, Mine was first registered in May 2014 so it's on a 14-Plate, in that case can I assume it is a Gen 4? I've seen Gen 5's advertised on eBay when were these fitted?? Hadn't realised that there was a Gen 6!!!!
Also does it matter whether you have a 6-speed AUTO or 9-Speed? As mentioned above, mine is the 9-Speed
@@peterromaniuk5771 sorry i meant 5. The 2020 onward maybe a gen 6 but not sure off the top of my head.
@@peterromaniuk5771 yes i would assume yours is a gen 4 but having the 9 speed auto it wouldnt suprise me if its a gen 5 as that is the newer gearbox that was fitted to the facelift models along with gen 5 haldex. Worth having a look before you order parts as its close to the year change
May I ask what method and solution did you use to clean the haldex casing inside while it was in situ with clutch packs etc still in?
Did you just spray the orfices with parts cleaner and let dry before putting oil back in? Or just cleaned what you could externally reach?
Thank you.
Brake cleaner and cloth arounf the filter and pump housing, let it drain and dry out before refillinh. Unless you are having problems to warrant a strip down then just a general clean and another oil change after 10k miles
@@lifes.projects thanks for the reply I really appreciate it.
I suspected that’s what to do but I was not sure if any cleaner would impact the clutch pack or if it would even manage to get in there when cleaning the galleys/ orfices.
Cheers mate 🙏
@lifes.projects Fantastic video. Thank you so much. We bought our 2007 FL2 recently and discovered the rear diff had gone. It took me 15 hours to get the thing off (novice). I’ve fitted the Haldex to the diff, but can you tell me am I putting oil in two places please - the Haldex AND the diff? It’s a Gen 3 Haldex, I believe. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Thank you. Yes the Diff is seperate and unforortunately dosent have a drain plug. If you have had the diff off I will assume its empty anyway. The filler is a 13mm bolt to the rear of the driveshaft on the nearside half way up the casing. The oil is 80w 90 GL5.
Towards the end of the video I go over the diff quickly. Its not clear where I am pointing but it will give you an idea.
@@lifes.projects thank you so much. So the oil for the Haldex actually goes in via the diff block and the diff oil goes in the filler at the back of the diff! I’ve taken a picture but can’t seem to share for others. Really very helpful - thank you so much. Turned out the diff filler was caked in mud on the old unit so couldn’t see it was there. Thanks again - got me right out of trouble 😅
@@davegilesuk Yes completely seperate filler bolts. The front one is for the haldex and the one to the rear of the nearside driveshaft is for the diff.
No problem glad its helped you out 👍
@@lifes.projects Thanks again. Is it the same oil for both holes?
Where is your garage ? Are you still working ?
I am really struggling taking off the input shaft nut 😖 nothing I do moves that little fella. Any advice? I saw you used just an impact gun.
Impact gun is the easiest way otherwise you will have to lock the flange with some stilsons or large grips
Great video, On a freelander 2 it possible to access, remove and replace the haldex filter only without removal of the prop shaft?
Thank you. Yes there is more room to access the haldex on a freelander 2. Most fl2 dont have the rubber donut on the input shaft so you can also remove the pump without having to remove the prop. Much prefer doing them on a fl2 in all honesty 😂
Hello I have the 2014 evoque 9 speed auto
Would you know if this model had the haldex
Cheers
Yes it does just the gearbox is different on yours. The Haldex is the same just a newer version.
How about the diff preload ???
What fluid did you use? I'm having issues finding the brand I need.
Buy the Volvo kit. Same stuff but cheaper
Hi I have a 2013 Freelander HSE which needs a full transmission service and probably brakes where are you? contact details appreciated
Is that what is causing restricte 2 wheel drive message?
Usually yes 👍
@@lifes.projects cool thanks! That's pump is located in the back differential
@@theone9564 yes located in the Haldex/diff. Remove it to drain the oil properly
My 2006 l320 won’t start and the security light keeps blinking
Sounds like an immobilizer issue
I am looking for a garage nearby to Manchester to service Haldex. Any recommendations and rough cost
Hi Liam They average around 200 depending on your location.
Not sure how much garages charge around Manchester and unfortunately dont know of any specialists around there either.
Hey men hi from germany sry my english is bad. I have a drone in inside from die rear what do you think can i fix it ? Ore a big problem
Quite possible to be the diff bearings however the wheel bearings make the same noise when they wear out.
Easiest thing to do is jack up the real wheels and spin them. That way you can see where the npise is coming from. 👍
@@lifes.projects how much do you think i can fix it ?
@@lifes.projects when is the diff
Is it normal to see some metal shavings on this engine
On the diff no. Usually that indicateds worn bearings. If you have no unusual noises then you might have caught it just intime before the shavings start to contaminate the oil
Perfect, thank you.
once the diff is noisy I'm guessing its too late?
Unfortunately yes more than likely its too late.
they can be rebuilt.
How much should this cost at an independent garage?
Around £200 depending on where you are located
How often does that need changing?
I would say every 30/40k
Can I please know where about you are situated?
How many miles/kilometers did this vehicle have at the time of service?
102,000 miles
Was this the 1st service for haldex oil and filter ?
@@xan-coinvestments8260 As far as we know yes. There is no documents to say it had been before.
@@lifes.projects thanks , I am at 44,000km and worried because i seeing it recomend at 30,000km, I am waiting on my parts to be shipped , very grateful for your video
Thank you for this video, btw!
bjr,que vaut le land dover evoque diesel??merci
2013?? That's rediculious the amount of rust that's formed on this motor. I've a 2013 4 motion VW Tiguan and there's none at all. Says alot about what manufacturers underbody protection is superior.. Apart from that, good upload. My motor has the haldex system, probably needs the same service..
Its the fuel tank guard thats notorious on the Evoque. Its acts as a water trap. My mates got a 2015 Tiguan thats in the same state underneath. Looks like its been parked in the sea 😂. All depends on where abouts in the country they have lived really.
How often does this need doing?
Every 70k miles
Thank you for this video.
before that i drove a porsche cayenne, the underbody looked like new even though it was 18 years old. but your car looks really rusty from underneath. I hope mine doesn't look like this
I need this doing where about are u
nice to see you back tom not just on the spanners but yourself also how are you doing op ok? atb
Hiya mate. I am not back on the spanners yet, got a long recovery but doing really well so far.
Just using my downtime to get these videos out there 😄
@@lifes.projects thought you looked full of beans after such a big op lmao keep well atb
@@georgeyboyhowe1685 haha a few people have said that 😄 thanks mate
Thank You
Who the hell is this strange fella piddling about with Eurobox Landys then?.....Seems a mite familiar!......Great to see you upping vids again Tom, hope the recuperation is going well mate....oh, and stop farting about with those newer toys and show us the Series you've got in the back :)
Haha thank you. Using the downtime well and trying to get back into the youtibe milarky. Oh yes thats a Series 1 in the background, currently waiting for a new wiring loom and some other bits to get that done. I have a 2A to do as well (not one for the purists either 😄)
@@lifes.projects ...as you well know, I'm a rivet counter myself...😂😂😂
If only Land Rover had done the Honda trick. Drain and level plug......simples...
If only!
Great video .... but get rid of the crap music man had to keep hitting sound off !
@@jamescardoness3037 Thank you 👍
Absolutely not mechanic friendly car. Customers complain of high labor charges not know the extent of work on Range Rover cars comparing to Japanese or American cars
All wheel drive cars require a haldex service it’s just not very talked about it gets ignored
Jacked the Car Up today & took a Picture of the Installed Haldex Unit, It has a Part Number of HA1/113430/1.13.048.401.02 Dated 02--09-2016 with 08-38-57 Made In Germany, It Looks like a GEN4, But when I Google, it says that it is for a Volvo? What Do you think?
The position of the motor is different and also look at the filter position. On gen. 4, it's moved a bit. So take a look at pictures on the web, of both. The filter for the Haldex is longer for the gen. 4. Both can be bought ORIGINAL from Volvo, as they also use them on XC 90-70-60 etc. models. About same price as non-fitting aftermarket parts. Trust me, I've been there. Never again.
There is a date when they changed from gen. 3 to 4, but I can't remember it, and there may be cars that was built before and after that date with the opposite Haldex coupling. So just take a look at pictures. But looking at your production date, I'd say it's surely a gen. 4 Haldex. Your nearest Volvo dealership have the right part ready within the same day; I had that good service. As I remember it, Haldex was made by Borg/Warner, but was sold on. No worries though. Just use original Volvo parts from a Volvo dealership, as they are original Borg/Warner. NOT aftermarket parts for this purpose. These have wrong spring, bad bad bolts and a slightly different design. Not to use. Be warned. Seriously.
Kind regards.
Great video - Thanks heaps