Yes I did, just forward of rear arches. I recommend to also clean and paint sills etc whilst you are under there....good opportunity. Best wishes Matthew 👍
@TINKERMAN466 she's not playing the game today. No power at all, flashing indicators. Tried boost, nothing. Got a ticking noise coming from passenger side foot well fuse box?
@@matthewjackson3034 Check battery voltage, give Starter motor a belt ( could be stuck)....failing this I would move onto starter solenoid and solenoid contacts.
Brilliant vid, this is something I'm about to tackle myself I'll be replacing all the controls but was going to reuse the existing driveshafts. Does the diff just bolt to the subframe or are there some bushes that would be worth replacing aswell at this time.?
Thank you for the nice comments. . The 4 diff. bolts run through 4 subframe bushes. In my case and I think in many cases they will be in good condition as they appear to be well protected from weather/debris etc. All the very best with the job. 👍
Great video, nice and clear how to, more less the same as removing a subframe from a R40 which i did ages ago, i made myself a jig to help lower and higher the new subframe, your scissor jack do you have a link for it. Also did you have to four wheel alignment after.
Thank you. The Jack is a "Sealey TJ150E".....have a look on Amazon.... they're pretty useful and make me feel much safer under cars too !! Yes I did wheel alignment afterwards and it was a breeze to set given that the rear adjusters were new !!
@@royogden549 I just removed the 6 E10 bolts and the prop shaft will separate from the diff as you lower the diff. You can mark the prop shaft flange so it bolts back on to the diff in exactly the same location however I believe it makes no difference as I believe Land Rover balanced the prop shafts off the car and not on the car when made. On refitting ....as you raise the diff and subframe back up to the car refit the prop shaft just before securing subframe. Best wishes.
Thank you. I had the vehicle off the road for a couple of days as I spent plenty of time painting and waxing etc , but you could very easily switch the frame in three to four hours if you had too and had all correct tools to hand.
Awesome vid; I'm sure i'll be tackling this job at some point soon - Doh! Quick one; if just changing those lower tack arms as assemblies; can I do it with all 4 wheels on the ground? Basically undo the 21mm headed bolt at he hub end and the three at the forward end into the cassis and bolt the new track arms in. Nothing will pull out of line will it? TIA Benny
Hi....I would probably get the weight off the side of the car you are working on....it will make bolt removal much easier and will reduce any movement for realigning your new arms. Safer too !! All the best.
Hi NW8000, A pair of good axle stands, wheel chocks, a decent jack on castors to support and remove diff and subframe, driveshaft hub nut socket (mine were 32mm but some aftermarket driveshafts use 36mm, an E10 socket for prop shaft bolts, selection of decent sockets (10mm-24mm), selection of ring spanners (10mm-24mm) and that's about it. I have in the video in places mentioned / shown / written in text some of the tools to help you. One recommendation is a decent impact wrench as it will make the job much easier and quicker for you. I use a DeWalt DCF961 which rattles most things off in a jiffy ! Depending how mucky the car is underneath some eye protection could be important too. Best wishes.
@@TINKERMAN466 Thats grand lad I have everything Except the jack on castors and a DeWalt DCF961. Both will be purchased before I attempt the job in September. Are you doing anymore vids about the Freelander 2 or will you be doing other cars?
Watch this space....I might do a Freelander 2 Glowplug removal/replacement video before the end of the summer. My Freelander 2 suffers from poor starting on very cold days so it is a job I want to do before winter comes !!
At the start you mentioned only competent people should undertake this and later you said you could not emphasize enough the importance of making sure you are safe yet your footwear is entirely unsuitable for the task. Unbelievable! I am not H&S nazi at all but I am an Aircraft Engineer of many years standing and I know the importance of protective clothing whilst working. All you needed to do was drop a heavy tool to injure yourself before you even started the work.
Pulling the diff out his Landy, on his drive, with a cigarette dangling out of his mouth. Legend!
@@StacyB-vk4wl
Landies and ciggies addictions.......both expensive, both no good for your health, but can't help lovin them both !!!
What a good video with everything explained. Great idea as well, doing a swop over.
Thank you Vince_Paul. Much appreciated 👍
Great video, ill be doing this in spring. My rear subframe is rotten.
Thanks Matthew.......it's actually quite a pleasant and satisfying job to complete. Best wishes with yours 👍
@TINKERMAN466 thanks buddy. Did u have your jack stands on the sills?
Yes I did, just forward of rear arches. I recommend to also clean and paint sills etc whilst you are under there....good opportunity. Best wishes Matthew 👍
@TINKERMAN466 she's not playing the game today. No power at all, flashing indicators. Tried boost, nothing. Got a ticking noise coming from passenger side foot well fuse box?
@@matthewjackson3034
Check battery voltage, give Starter motor a belt ( could be stuck)....failing this I would move onto starter solenoid and solenoid contacts.
I’m planning doing the same job on mine and this video was super helpful. Thank you and well done 👍
@@sebastiansmela3608 Many thanks Sebastian and all the best with the job !
Brilliant vid, this is something I'm about to tackle myself I'll be replacing all the controls but was going to reuse the existing driveshafts. Does the diff just bolt to the subframe or are there some bushes that would be worth replacing aswell at this time.?
Thank you for the nice comments. . The 4 diff. bolts run through 4 subframe bushes. In my case and I think in many cases they will be in good condition as they appear to be well protected from weather/debris etc. All the very best with the job. 👍
Nicely done 👌👍
Many thanks....hope you found it helpful 👍👍👍.
Great video, nice and clear how to, more less the same as removing a subframe from a R40 which i did ages ago, i made myself a jig to help lower and higher the new subframe, your scissor jack do you have a link for it. Also did you have to four wheel alignment after.
Thank you. The Jack is a "Sealey TJ150E".....have a look on Amazon.... they're pretty useful and make me feel much safer under cars too !! Yes I did wheel alignment afterwards and it was a breeze to set given that the rear adjusters were new !!
Hi did you just undo the bolts on the prop or the all the messing around like the manual tells you mine is a 2011 td4
@@royogden549 I just removed the 6 E10 bolts and the prop shaft will separate from the diff as you lower the diff. You can mark the prop shaft flange so it bolts back on to the diff in exactly the same location however I believe it makes no difference as I believe Land Rover balanced the prop shafts off the car and not on the car when made. On refitting ....as you raise the diff and subframe back up to the car refit the prop shaft just before securing subframe. Best wishes.
Awesome video bud. How long did it take you start to finish?
Thank you. I had the vehicle off the road for a couple of days as I spent plenty of time painting and waxing etc , but you could very easily switch the frame in three to four hours if you had too and had all correct tools to hand.
Awesome vid; I'm sure i'll be tackling this job at some point soon - Doh!
Quick one; if just changing those lower tack arms as assemblies; can I do it with all 4 wheels on the ground?
Basically undo the 21mm headed bolt at he hub end and the three at the forward end into the cassis and bolt the new track arms in.
Nothing will pull out of line will it? TIA Benny
Hi....I would probably get the weight off the side of the car you are working on....it will make bolt removal much easier and will reduce any movement for realigning your new arms. Safer too !! All the best.
Can you give us a list of tools used please?
Hi NW8000,
A pair of good axle stands, wheel chocks, a decent jack on castors to support and remove diff and subframe, driveshaft hub nut socket (mine were 32mm but some aftermarket driveshafts use 36mm, an E10 socket for prop shaft bolts, selection of decent sockets (10mm-24mm), selection of ring spanners (10mm-24mm) and that's about it. I have in the video in places mentioned / shown / written in text some of the tools to help you. One recommendation is a decent impact wrench as it will make the job much easier and quicker for you. I use a DeWalt DCF961 which rattles most things off in a jiffy ! Depending how mucky the car is underneath some eye protection could be important too. Best wishes.
@@TINKERMAN466 Thats grand lad I have everything Except the jack on castors and a DeWalt DCF961. Both will be purchased before I attempt the job in September. Are you doing anymore vids about the Freelander 2 or will you be doing other cars?
Watch this space....I might do a Freelander 2 Glowplug removal/replacement video before the end of the summer. My Freelander 2 suffers from poor starting on very cold days so it is a job I want to do before winter comes !!
At the start you mentioned only competent people should undertake this and later you said you could not emphasize enough the importance of making sure you are safe yet your footwear is entirely unsuitable for the task. Unbelievable! I am not H&S nazi at all but I am an Aircraft Engineer of many years standing and I know the importance of protective clothing whilst working. All you needed to do was drop a heavy tool to injure yourself before you even started the work.
@@willxv226
Don't drop your tools then !