Thanks for the video/advice - will be tackling this job tomorrow whilst doing the regular engine oil change - as far as refilling is concerned I reckon with the LR on front axle ramps the refill level should be about right at that angle with filling to the plug level 👍
I used your video to fill my front diff, so your instructions are simple to follow. Your comments should be kept to relevant points only. Description of oil leaking from the filler point is a waste of time. Keep the videos coming I use them instead of the manual. Great full regards PETER L
Always ever so informative and detailed. Great watching all your DIY Landy tinkering! Only thing is now that's another one for me to be doing on my FL2... Great job and many thanks keep them coming mate. 👍
Great video, I need to do this job and wanted to see someone else doing it first - thanks! My main first decision is whether to first tap a drain plug in at the bottom or not.. however you have shown that it is possible to get fluid out from the top which is encouraging.
I may add a drain plug to mine. The fluid can be sucked out of the filler but difficult getting it all out. I’ve also learnt that you can brim the fluid with no bad effects. There is no need to remove some after filling.
@@BeavisPits Yes the advice to not brim it is interesting. Winchester gears say they think the advice was to keep it low enough to prevent leaking out the gear box seal (I asked them as a comment on their video) facebook.com/watch/?comment_id=2914870988816572&v=360545924496016¬if_id=1663496017743975¬if_t=comment_mention&ref=notif
I was thinking of adding a drain plug to the rear diff. When I drain the D2 diff oils the fist part of oil that comes out is much darker than the oil at the top. So I'm sure that not having drain plugs means that the crud isn't getting removed. A drain would be also good on the haldex Gen 4 ; watching videos on the VW haldex they have had the sense to add a drain and a refill plug.
Suppose when withdrawing 120ml after filling we need to be mindful of the fluid in the piece of hose on the end of the syringe (strictly speaking). I see Ravenol sells a syringe kit, so thanks for the video...will have to do the same job on my L359.
Hi, thanks for making these videos, they give other owners confidence to tackle these jobs! I did this on my drive, which slopes, and raised the front of the car onto sleepers, so the car was dead level. I think this may alter your full level by quite a lot compared to having it on ramps. Could you get four cut down sleepers to bump the car up level and give you access underneath, or four ramps? Great content on your channel, keep it coming and looking forward to your Haldex videos! 👏👏👏
I’m about to replace the inter cooler hose at the front of the engine and it’s my intention to replace all with the silicon hoses over the next few weeks or months. Can I ask where you got your hoses especially the turbo hose you pointed out. Excellent videos by the way 👍. Very informative and well explained.
Thanks Stephen. Hose are from ebay… www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-TD4-2-2-TURBO-TO-INTECOOLER-SILICONE-HOSE-PIPE-KIT-/291074371899?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Thank you very much. Our front transfer box is getting noisy, so I'm going to try this, although I suspect it will need recon unit. I did laugh at "this has got to be shortest chapter in the Haynes' Manual" and "I've just got a face full of oil". I'll adopt the same approach as when I replaced our rear diff/Haldex 3 and have the car as level as possible on 3 ton axle stands and let you know if the oil goes in any easier. Is there a front Haldex that also needs servicing/oil?
Only one haldex, acting as a centre diff but located at the rear. I mistakenly call this video the front differential service. The front diff is actually inside the gearbox. This is the Power Transfer Unit which splits the front drive off at 90’ to go down the prop shaft to the rear.
Hi in was wandering you can help me. In have a 2.2 manual td4. 07 plate with 98k. I get a weird whirring on low revs at a certain rpm. Whether it's stationery or not also doesn't matter if in gear or not. Only does it at a particular rpm.
Sounds like it could be the turbo or the air duct/hoses. Whereabouts on the engine is the whirring sound coming from? Also, check the auxiliary drive belt and pulleys.
Did this procedure last weekend - try as I might I could only get 300-400ml of syrupy brown fluid out with a syringe and replaced it with slightly more new? I still maintain that even this operation will be okay if I now do the same fairly regularly as it will have the benefit over time of blending the new fluid with the old.
Hi. Tnx for the video. On my evoque 2013 2.2 diesel ptu started to make noise. Inside is all black and have some space on part where drive shaft come. What is the problem?
@@BeavisPits thats great thanks. I did my haldex service this week as rear wheel was scrabbling while pulling away at low speed while turning. Was advised to see to it before it damages the diff. Wasnt a bad job took my time over couple days
Nice movie. Because I had problems using the syringe tube to empty I drilled through the bottom bolt hole on the side of the box making it a very easy job to take out the fluid and also getting the 120ml out. Still had to use the syringe to fill. Such an awkward position to work in without a lift ramp. One point though is to make sure the bolt is fluid proof when you've done, I used a spot of silicone sealer with a copper washer.
It needs to meet BOT118 spec. The Ravenol DTF-1 meets this. If the VSG oil meets it too then it could also be used. Manual gearbox is 75W90…is it possible the oil selector has mixed the two up?
@Beavis Pits Both oils RAVENOL VSG SAE and DTF-1 are 75W90. Why you belive DTF-1 meets BOT118? Currently, Ravenol does not declare BOT 118 for any(!) of them. I have just checked at official ravenol website, might something more is on the bottle. Old Ravenol TF-0870 probably have had BOT 118 specification but this product it is deprecated.
@@BeavisPits Genuine Castrol BOT118 oil bottle has API GL-5 mark on the back. And most oil manufacturers' configurators match GL-5 oils to PTUs (as Ravenol VSG SAE). Anyway I don't know where to confirm the information that TF-0870 specification is compatible with BOT118.
I did excessive amounts of research finding the best suitable alternatives for the Castrol BOT 118/95 oil, which is a 75W-90 GL-5 based oil but with a wider viscosity range. Besides products from Liqui Moly and Febi, the "Ravenol LS SAE 75W-90" is the one closest to the original OEM oil specifications! It is almost spot on!
Hi. I need only 1l Ravenol Transfer Fluid DTF-1 for front diff? I hear that is noisy. Today I unplug terrain response hose and nów driving is quiet. Meybe Oil replace Will help. What do you think?
Hi watched your video on Front diff oil change, got 350 ml out of one and 650 out of other one, one had warm engine. Problem is getting the right amount back in. It trickles out from around 500ml, have left vehicle for half hour tried again but runs out, vehicles are almost level to work on. World it be worth running engine and trying to top up when oil is warm?
Just fill to brim and then you are meant to remove some, although I have heard of people just leaving it brimmed with no issues. UA-camr “Frenchies Road Trip” did this and it was fine. Running the engine won’t really help as transfer box only turns when driving.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I’m not sure where to buy the filler plug itself, it isn’t usually replaced, only the copper washer underneath it. I would try ebay and Skan Automotive (used FL2 breaker), failing that LR themselves.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I meant how to access it. Did you put the syringe through the wheel arch? Because the video doesn’t show where you accessed it from.
I’m running BFG KO2 245/70R17 on 17” XS wheels. 5% larger circumference but speedo doesn’t seem to under-read. I checked it with a GPS speed app and it was bang on!
Hi Beavis, sorry have you ever changed the timing chain? And if so, how many km? It seems to me that your land has the 2,2 engine like mine, or am I wrong? Thanks!
Yes, mine is 2.2 diesel, and I got a local garage to do my cam belt at 100,000 miles. It needs to be changed before 144,000 miles. I got mine done earlier as a safety precaution. I am not sure but I think there is a chain somewhere in the engine as well, but that is to drive the oil pump only and is not a part that needs to be renewed.
Hi, where'd you get that syringe from? Im onto fluids next so need 1 or 2 of those syringes, probably one to extract one to fill to keep it as clean as pos. Can you not get to that filler point through the wheel arch with the wheel off?
Hi mate. I'm going to be changing my ptu / front diff oil soon, love the video, I'm almost confident enough to do it lol, I'm a bit confused about drawing 120ml back out after filling to the level plug. I've seen a post on landyzone where someone drew out 62ml ( very specific 🤣 ) and a recent video from frenchies roadtrips where he fills up to the level and refits the plug. I'm not sure who to follow, is the 120ml thing advised by landrover? Thanks for the videos. 👍👍
The 120ml back out is in the haynes manual. I think it is to allow for heat expansion. The rear diff is fill to brim, the haldex is withdraw 70ml, although I have brimmed mine without issue. I’ll have to have a word with Mr French!
Ben French replied to me and said an LR garage told him it is fine to brim the front diff oil, no need to withdraw 120ml. I will look at this is an upcoming video.
@@BeavisPits thanks mate, I think I'll follow the Haynes as well, surely can't go wrong with that. I hope it doesn't cause any leaking seals for Ben's car. I tried commenting on his channel but for some reason it wouldn't send. All the best,
@@badrallach4792 By mistake I didn't withdrawn 120ml from front diff. , so far(20kkm after change) no leakages from transfer case but the original service manual for RR Evoque reffering to that need as well. Thermal expansion of the oil is only 4% of the volume for each 100F , so if I'm not wrong in our case 6%=45ccm/45ml(taking into concideration the total capacity of 0,75l), so either thermal expension is not the reason of this withdrawn or that shouldn't make any big impact. Any other ideas why they are asking to remove the 120ml ? BR KP
@@kamillop.7842 glad you've no leaks, I think it'll be one of these land rover mysteries. 🤣, think I've done around 6k miles since I did mine, no noise , no probs. Hey at least we have nice new oil in there. Can't be a bad thing. 👍👍 Happy New year to ya.
That is a combination of oil from my catch can and oil from the intercooler hoses when I was recirculating the blowby gas for a few weeks. It may also be from some of the seals/gaskets. The engine is old and tired.
The oil is not very thick so probably won’t reduce the noise much. If the box has worn bearings/bushes then it should really be replaced. The splines on the output shafts are another known weakness.
Not sure what you mean. I used the syringe to suck out the old oil and also to refill. The tube on the new oil bottle was not long enough to use without spilling a lot of oil.
@@BeavisPits I was talking about the suction tube that goes from the air filter to the turbine, is that better with what you put on? Sorry for my english but I am italian🤪😉
Yes, but I can’t fit under the car and don’t have a four post lift. This is the only way I can do it. Removing the fluid after is optional. Since making this video I’ve found out it doesn’t need to be done.
@@rickykent4543 yes, Bell Engineering no longer advise to remove fluid after filling. I brim mine, no issues and I know of quite a few others who do this too.
The front differential on a freelander 2 is inside the gearbox housing. The fluid that I’m changing in this video is for the transfer box or power transfer unit (PTU), which contains a bevelled pinion to send the drive 90° along the prop shaft to the rear, as well as across to the offside wheel.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
What a fantastic video. Watched 2 otters before coming across this one and then binging the rest of your channel. Please keep up the good content 👍
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed watching the otters! 🦦
Haha! Bloody auto correct 🫣
Thanks for the video/advice - will be tackling this job tomorrow whilst doing the regular engine oil change - as far as refilling is concerned I reckon with the LR on front axle ramps the refill level should be about right at that angle with filling to the plug level 👍
I used your video to fill my front diff, so your instructions are simple to follow.
Your comments should be kept to relevant points only.
Description of oil leaking from the filler point is a waste of time.
Keep the videos coming I use them instead of the manual.
Great full regards
PETER
L
Always ever so informative and detailed. Great watching all your DIY Landy tinkering! Only thing is now that's another one for me to be doing on my FL2... Great job and many thanks keep them coming mate. 👍
Great syphon, I bought one the other day to do the haldex. Much easier than the electric one and quicker. Good job.
Where'd you get it from?
👍👍👍👍 Another great video Scott, keep them coming.
Great video, I need to do this job and wanted to see someone else doing it first - thanks!
My main first decision is whether to first tap a drain plug in at the bottom or not.. however you have shown that it is possible to get fluid out from the top which is encouraging.
I may add a drain plug to mine. The fluid can be sucked out of the filler but difficult getting it all out. I’ve also learnt that you can brim the fluid with no bad effects. There is no need to remove some after filling.
@@BeavisPits Yes the advice to not brim it is interesting. Winchester gears say they think the advice was to keep it low enough to prevent leaking out the gear box seal (I asked them as a comment on their video)
facebook.com/watch/?comment_id=2914870988816572&v=360545924496016¬if_id=1663496017743975¬if_t=comment_mention&ref=notif
I was thinking of adding a drain plug to the rear diff. When I drain the D2 diff oils the fist part of oil that comes out is much darker than the oil at the top. So I'm sure that not having drain plugs means that the crud isn't getting removed. A drain would be also good on the haldex Gen 4 ; watching videos on the VW haldex they have had the sense to add a drain and a refill plug.
Suppose when withdrawing 120ml after filling we need to be mindful of the fluid in the piece of hose on the end of the syringe (strictly speaking). I see Ravenol sells a syringe kit, so thanks for the video...will have to do the same job on my L359.
great video do you have a video on servicing the haldex unit plus oil spec and quantity?
I did a video on the fluids, but have not serviced my haldex yet, on my list!
Thanks for the video. I was about to put a 75/90 gear oil in. Landrover want £53.00 a litre for the Castrol bot 118! Ravenol it is then. Cheers, Iain
used that syringe for rear diff oil three times now and well worth 20 ish quid. Haldex and front bevel gear still to do!
Hi, thanks for making these videos, they give other owners confidence to tackle these jobs! I did this on my drive, which slopes, and raised the front of the car onto sleepers, so the car was dead level. I think this may alter your full level by quite a lot compared to having it on ramps. Could you get four cut down sleepers to bump the car up level and give you access underneath, or four ramps? Great content on your channel, keep it coming and looking forward to your Haldex videos! 👏👏👏
I’m about to replace the inter cooler hose at the front of the engine and it’s my intention to replace all with the silicon hoses over the next few weeks or months. Can I ask where you got your hoses especially the turbo hose you pointed out. Excellent videos by the way 👍. Very informative and well explained.
Thanks Stephen. Hose are from ebay…
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-TD4-2-2-TURBO-TO-INTECOOLER-SILICONE-HOSE-PIPE-KIT-/291074371899?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Thank for taking the efforts to make the video 👍
Wonder what would be a good interval to change this? Mine probably hasn't been done so I'm going to do what you've done in the video here.
Thank you very much. Our front transfer box is getting noisy, so I'm going to try this, although I suspect it will need recon unit. I did laugh at "this has got to be shortest chapter in the Haynes' Manual" and "I've just got a face full of oil". I'll adopt the same approach as when I replaced our rear diff/Haldex 3 and have the car as level as possible on 3 ton axle stands and let you know if the oil goes in any easier. Is there a front Haldex that also needs servicing/oil?
Only one haldex, acting as a centre diff but located at the rear. I mistakenly call this video the front differential service. The front diff is actually inside the gearbox. This is the Power Transfer Unit which splits the front drive off at 90’ to go down the prop shaft to the rear.
Thank you. Will see if there are any videos on changing auto gearbox oil in that case!
Hi in was wandering you can help me. In have a 2.2 manual td4. 07 plate with 98k. I get a weird whirring on low revs at a certain rpm. Whether it's stationery or not also doesn't matter if in gear or not. Only does it at a particular rpm.
Sounds like it could be the turbo or the air duct/hoses. Whereabouts on the engine is the whirring sound coming from? Also, check the auxiliary drive belt and pulleys.
Did this procedure last weekend - try as I might I could only get 300-400ml of syrupy brown fluid out with a syringe and replaced it with slightly more new? I still maintain that even this operation will be okay if I now do the same fairly regularly as it will have the benefit over time of blending the new fluid with the old.
Hi. Tnx for the video.
On my evoque 2013 2.2 diesel ptu started to make noise. Inside is all black and have some space on part where drive shaft come. What is the problem?
PTU has failed. It will need replacing.
But still working and have humming noise?
Bearing or sleeve worn
Hi. When are you doing the haldex series of videos ? Would love to see them. Your videos are great work good job 👍🏼
Haldex is on the list to do soon as my rear diff is now very whiney. I need to do the glowplugs and webasto first, then will do haldex.
@@BeavisPits thats great thanks. I did my haldex service this week as rear wheel was scrabbling while pulling away at low speed while turning. Was advised to see to it before it damages the diff. Wasnt a bad job took my time over couple days
please correct me if i am wrong. i should fill until oil drips out the hole and than take away 120 ml? is that correct following haynes manual?
Just brim it. Haynes says to remove some but I no longer do this as I’ve heard of other people filling it up to the filler with no issues.
what is the cause of the oil leak? I saw oil on the transfer case. did you find where it's leaking from? thank you
Leaking from the driveshaft and propshaft seals and where the PTU mates to the gearbox
HI, I AM FROM BRAZIL, WHERE CAN I DOWNLOAD THIS MANUAL DOC THAT YOU USED?
Haynes manual?
Nice movie. Because I had problems using the syringe tube to empty I drilled through the bottom bolt hole on the side of the box making it a very easy job to take out the fluid and also getting the 120ml out. Still had to use the syringe to fill. Such an awkward position to work in without a lift ramp. One point though is to make sure the bolt is fluid proof when you've done, I used a spot of silicone sealer with a copper washer.
Fact: ravenol oil selector recommends RAVENOL VSG SAE 75W‑90 for transferbox but not Transfer Fluid DTF-1. Any comments on this?
It needs to meet BOT118 spec. The Ravenol DTF-1 meets this. If the VSG oil meets it too then it could also be used. Manual gearbox is 75W90…is it possible the oil selector has mixed the two up?
@Beavis Pits Both oils RAVENOL VSG SAE and DTF-1 are 75W90. Why you belive DTF-1 meets BOT118? Currently, Ravenol does not declare BOT 118 for any(!) of them. I have just checked at official ravenol website, might something more is on the bottle. Old Ravenol TF-0870 probably have had BOT 118 specification but this product it is deprecated.
The standard of the Ravenol oil I used is TF-0870. Looking on google this equates to Castrol BOT118.
@@BeavisPits Genuine Castrol BOT118 oil bottle has API GL-5 mark on the back. And most oil manufacturers' configurators match GL-5 oils to PTUs (as Ravenol VSG SAE). Anyway I don't know where to confirm the information that TF-0870 specification is compatible with BOT118.
I did excessive amounts of research finding the best suitable alternatives for the Castrol BOT 118/95 oil, which is a 75W-90 GL-5 based oil but with a wider viscosity range. Besides products from Liqui Moly and Febi, the "Ravenol LS SAE 75W-90" is the one closest to the original OEM oil specifications! It is almost spot on!
Hi. I need only 1l Ravenol Transfer Fluid DTF-1 for front diff? I hear that is noisy. Today I unplug terrain response hose and nów driving is quiet. Meybe Oil replace Will help. What do you think?
1L of fluid is enough for the front diff. Sounds like your haldex or rear diff needs a service if the noise stops with the haldex unplugged.
Hi watched your video on Front diff oil change, got 350 ml out of one and 650 out of other one, one had warm engine. Problem is getting the right amount back in. It trickles out from around 500ml, have left vehicle for half hour tried again but runs out, vehicles are almost level to work on. World it be worth running engine and trying to top up when oil is warm?
Just fill to brim and then you are meant to remove some, although I have heard of people just leaving it brimmed with no issues. UA-camr “Frenchies Road Trip” did this and it was fine. Running the engine won’t really help as transfer box only turns when driving.
Hi thanks for posting these amazing videos.
Can you please clarify where I can find the filler plug that you show here? I can’t find it
Thanks for the positive feedback. I’m not sure where to buy the filler plug itself, it isn’t usually replaced, only the copper washer underneath it. I would try ebay and Skan Automotive (used FL2 breaker), failing that LR themselves.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I meant how to access it. Did you put the syringe through the wheel arch? Because the video doesn’t show where you accessed it from.
Ah, I see, I accessed it behind the transfer box. You need to get the car safely up on ramps and then get right in underneath.
is it possible to do this job without jacking the car?
No really, you need to get right up underneath
Hi, I know its been a while, but off hand can you remember what size rims and tyre size you had on it, and did it effect speedo, cheers
I’m running BFG KO2 245/70R17 on 17” XS wheels. 5% larger circumference but speedo doesn’t seem to under-read. I checked it with a GPS speed app and it was bang on!
@@BeavisPits thanks for the reply and info
another gr8 video dude - much appreciated
Thanks!
Very interesting, thank you. If I could do it I would.
Hi Beavis, sorry have you ever changed the timing chain? And if so, how many km? It seems to me that your land has the 2,2 engine like mine, or am I wrong? Thanks!
Yes, mine is 2.2 diesel, and I got a local garage to do my cam belt at 100,000 miles. It needs to be changed before 144,000 miles. I got mine done earlier as a safety precaution. I am not sure but I think there is a chain somewhere in the engine as well, but that is to drive the oil pump only and is not a part that needs to be renewed.
Great videos!. Any update on the Haldex ones ? 😊
It is next on my list of big jobs
Hi, where did you get the transfer box fluid from? Plus, old oil? Classic Land Rover underseal, don't you know, old chap! 😉
It is Ravenol Transfer Case fluid bought from Amazon
Hi, where'd you get that syringe from? Im onto fluids next so need 1 or 2 of those syringes, probably one to extract one to fill to keep it as clean as pos.
Can you not get to that filler point through the wheel arch with the wheel off?
Syringe was from halfords although any large medical type syringe will do off ebay. Good idea about buying two to keep the fresh one clean!
Hi mate. I'm going to be changing my ptu / front diff oil soon, love the video, I'm almost confident enough to do it lol, I'm a bit confused about drawing 120ml back out after filling to the level plug. I've seen a post on landyzone where someone drew out 62ml ( very specific 🤣 ) and a recent video from frenchies roadtrips where he fills up to the level and refits the plug. I'm not sure who to follow, is the 120ml thing advised by landrover? Thanks for the videos. 👍👍
The 120ml back out is in the haynes manual. I think it is to allow for heat expansion. The rear diff is fill to brim, the haldex is withdraw 70ml, although I have brimmed mine without issue. I’ll have to have a word with Mr French!
Ben French replied to me and said an LR garage told him it is fine to brim the front diff oil, no need to withdraw 120ml. I will look at this is an upcoming video.
@@BeavisPits thanks mate, I think I'll follow the Haynes as well, surely can't go wrong with that. I hope it doesn't cause any leaking seals for Ben's car. I tried commenting on his channel but for some reason it wouldn't send. All the best,
@@badrallach4792 By mistake I didn't withdrawn 120ml from front diff. , so far(20kkm after change) no leakages from transfer case but the original service manual for RR Evoque reffering to that need as well. Thermal expansion of the oil is only 4% of the volume for each 100F , so if I'm not wrong in our case 6%=45ccm/45ml(taking into concideration the total capacity of 0,75l), so either thermal expension is not the reason of this withdrawn or that shouldn't make any big impact. Any other ideas why they are asking to remove the 120ml ? BR KP
@@kamillop.7842 glad you've no leaks, I think it'll be one of these land rover mysteries. 🤣, think I've done around 6k miles since I did mine, no noise , no probs. Hey at least we have nice new oil in there. Can't be a bad thing. 👍👍 Happy New year to ya.
PERFECT, thank you
whats the name of the manual you are using?
Haynes
What is the name of the syphon tool.
Laser Multi-Purpose Oil Transfer Syringe 200cc, euro car parts £27
this oil leak that was already existing in your engine, what was the cause? mine is the same
That is a combination of oil from my catch can and oil from the intercooler hoses when I was recirculating the blowby gas for a few weeks. It may also be from some of the seals/gaskets. The engine is old and tired.
@@BeavisPits mine is the same, and I think I'll leave it like that. I won't fix it
It helps prevent rust!
@@BeavisPits kkkkkk, really
@@BeavisPits thank You 👍🏻👍🏻
Is this the same for Evoque 2012 td4?
Yes, as far as I know the evoque 2.2 diesel uses the same engine and drivetrain as the FL2
Thanks so much for making this. I’ve been told my transfer box is no good but do you think new oil would quiet it down? Thanks
The oil is not very thick so probably won’t reduce the noise much. If the box has worn bearings/bushes then it should really be replaced. The splines on the output shafts are another known weakness.
@@BeavisPits ok thanks again. And good video mate.
At what mileage do you class this as tired? Just looking at one with 175000 miles 🤔
Mine has 170k miles on the clock
Why did you change the suction tube with this direct? Is the car better?
Not sure what you mean. I used the syringe to suck out the old oil and also to refill. The tube on the new oil bottle was not long enough to use without spilling a lot of oil.
@@BeavisPits I was talking about the suction tube that goes from the air filter to the turbine, is that better with what you put on? Sorry for my english but I am italian🤪😉
Yes, it is better. Here is the video : Air intake upgrade on a Freelander 2/LR2
ua-cam.com/video/rRkRJNeT-zE/v-deo.html
@@BeavisPits ok, good work!
You should remove only 100 ml ,or even 90, Because you didn't considered the fluid remained in the tube from the syringe
No need to remove any
Should this not be done on level ground else the amount removed will be wrong as tilted towards the rear ?
Yes, but I can’t fit under the car and don’t have a four post lift. This is the only way I can do it. Removing the fluid after is optional. Since making this video I’ve found out it doesn’t need to be done.
@@BeavisPitsso the transfer case can just be filled up to filler plug with no fluid removed?
@@rickykent4543 yes, Bell Engineering no longer advise to remove fluid after filling. I brim mine, no issues and I know of quite a few others who do this too.
@@BeavisPits that makes the job a lot easier, thanks, good to know.
Seems like LR did everything they could to make sure you brought the vehicle in for these services or a new transfer box. What huge waste
you only have to do this every 10 years or over 150 thousand mile
@@honestopinion253 .....Yeah, not sure what the service interval is but our PTU failed at about 140k miles
Decent job. Your only going to get that empty with a electric pump.
Yeh, looked for an electric pump in halfords but only a hand syringe type. I’ll order one online.
@@BeavisPits I found mine in good only Aldi. Loaf of bread and a electric pump 🤷🏼♂️ very random shop.
@@russ4972 🤣🤣👍yup
This is the front diff not the transfer box !
The front differential on a freelander 2 is inside the gearbox housing. The fluid that I’m changing in this video is for the transfer box or power transfer unit (PTU), which contains a bevelled pinion to send the drive 90° along the prop shaft to the rear, as well as across to the offside wheel.