A vital part of troubleshooting is understanding how a system works Fuel systems, ignition systems, sealing systems, propulsion systems, etc. are all part of the machine. Keep learning and your projects will get easier and better. You made a few assumptions but not many. Most of all you aren't afraid to THINK, and that's half the battle. The more you think and do, the more do, the more you will learn. Every bit of knowledge you gain is like adding another tool to your toolbox, and the more you learn the bigger your toolbox will be. Don't stop. It's not my intent to imply that you made mistakes, you *LEARNED* and you didn't give up! That's awesome. You did a hell of a job. Well done.
Good job getting this thing to run properly. As you mentioned I hope someone did not sabotage the engine but I’m thinking it was sabotaged so someone could benefit from it.
I love your video, you are doing everything wrong, reminds me of myself 60years ago, i give you an A+ on your report card for the entertaining effort you put out. thanks Lewis
Like someone said, need to learn how an engine works first, then this gets much easier... I started by watching all the UA-cam mower repair channels I could find, I now fix all my own equipment and do some for friends.
Many people use a steel wire brush on a drill to remove gasket material successfully. I’ve used a brass brush on a drill. Installing a dry gasket can work, but coating the gasket ahead of time with an ATF and 2-stroke fuel mix will soften the gasket a little, allowing it to conform better to surface irregularities. I also sometimes coat one or both surfaces of the machine or gasket with a thin coat of Threebond 1184 and let it dry well before assembling. Threebond 1184 is self-leveling so it’ll make a nice layer if held horizontally while setting up.
I recently was given my brother's old Snapper Zero Turn mower. It had sat for 5 years. I found your videos and have been learning your work. Thanks for making your videos. I did get my Snapper running. Works like a Dream after unsticking the bowl solenoid. Still watching your videos as I'm learning now for future events that might happen. 🤓👍
seals are tricky sometimes. I have done both, install seal seperate or already in sump cover. Put some grease on the crank shaft, and when the seal first meets the larger part of shaft, use a pick to hold lip down so it does not roll. Once it starts the correct way then slide it the rest of the way down. Also a good trick to remove seal only, is take two drywall screws , drill small holes, one on each side of the old seal. Screw the drywall screws in and it will push the old seal out. Great job, thank you for your videos , my friend :)
Good job getting into that engine. The more you take apart, the more confidence you gain. I would suggest a torch and air hammer for your shop for those stubborn pulleys. Good work as always and keep on sharing those stories!
This is the OLD MAN @ Eliminator Performance in Canada wishing you and your family a safe and happy holiday season. Congratulations on your first tear down and repair. You should be proud of what you have accomplished and as you continue on you will be able to purchase more tools and stuff that make your wrenching easier, faster, safer and basically pay back their original cost just in time savings. Just a few things to consider: assembly lube, bearing and seal installation tools. First time i have caught your channel so i am now subbed. The number one rule to keep in mind is you learn by doing and you learn more when you make mistakes.
@@garagestory Yep guaranteed whoever worked on it before allowed the push rod to fall into the crankcase and did not want to let the customer know. You would be surprised how many two cylinder engines come in running on one cylinder and the customer did not know. Would not think that a reputable shop would do this but you never know.
That bottom crankshaft seal does not get pushed in all the way, there is a hole that allows oil to flow to lubricate the bottom bearing surface. i could not tell from the video if you pressed it too far, but it looked close.
You can get a seal over a shoulder or lip by wrapping the shaft with thin plastic or metal first. Soda can, milk or water jug, plastic from a bag of dog food, etc. Lubricate, of course, to make it easier to slide the seal down.
Huge congratulations on your first engine disassembly! It’s a big deal! What a great feeling when it finally all goes back together and actually runs! 👍
Those are the kind of things I wonder about doing, but I’m afraid to mess up the gasket surface. That would have saved a TON of time. What kind of wire wheel do you use? Do you put on the gasket dry, or with sealer as well?
@@garagestory i put a wire wheel on drill cheep 3 inch from orielys and the gasket i hang it on wire and spray paint them lightly and install them when there still tacky
Do you know if the wire wheel is steel or brass or something else? That’s interesting on the gasket, I don’t know if I’ve ever heard of using spray paint.
I'm not sure if it was mentioned already or not, but for the Silicone or RTV gasket material, you can use WD-40 to "solve" it and make it easier to remove. As for the crankcase gasket, you can use a butane torch to "crisp" the remains of the gasket and make it easier to remove after being crushed in place for god knows how long. Cheers!
Hello my friend, I watch your videos a lot and from watching this one take it from me as I am a 40 plus years mower mechanic and what your doing and how your doing a professional couldn't be any better and for myself you are doing great. Keep up with your great videos and I really hope we can actually get together someday to work on a troubled mower. Good luck and I like your shop set up as well. Keep on going your doing fine. The trouble that you experienced with the lifters was another mechanic taking a shortcut that actually doesn't work and he didn't know what he was doing,I was even surprised the engine even ran!.
Thank you for not quitting! Was hoping this might help with my issue. Nothing as complicated as what you dove into. I replaced my seat switch because the engine was dying when I pulled in the left handle. That did not correct it. Was preparing to load on trailer and take to shop, cut the grass. Next time it did it again. Not sure where to start. I'm just a 60 year old lady. Is there a switch in the left arm? Or any other ideas you might have. Thank you for doing a great job
Yes, both arms should have their own safety switches. If it dies when you pull in the handle, I think that would mean the switch is working. Usually if pulling in the handle kills the motor, that’s because the system thinks the parking break is on. I have another video or two where I went into the electrical system further. Those might be of help possibly.
Here are two of the videos: ua-cam.com/video/58RH-MxNcAg/v-deo.htmlsi=oihb9Gv09bNb0xo4 ua-cam.com/video/L3j_ArNjRt4/v-deo.htmlsi=xmWBXYMEl91ewlBD Hope that there is something useful for you in there!
You can adjust the final RPM speed, up or down, by bending the tab that the governor spring hangs on. Briggs has a special tool for that, even though it's just a rod with a slot in it, and some needle nose pliers will do just fine.
If you hold the straight razor as perpendicular as possible to the mating surface and just hold it as flat as possible, then "scratch" back and forth you will not damage the mating surface at all and will be much faster
Move trash receptacles away from under or next to workbenches. I’ve lost more than one tool that rolled, fell or vibrated off a bench into the trash and didn’t miss it until after the trash went out. I’d probably dump that one out on the floor or a tarp to make sure nothing you need is going to get thrown out. 🔧😉
The valves were probably never adjusted and got loose. Most people don’t know any better and run to failure then freak out when you tell them how much it’s gonna cost them. Looks like someone didn’t know what they were doing.
wow good video thx Ed Loretto Ontario Canada ,,,PS i never us a new gasket ,,only cocking , USUALLY I ONLY CLEAN 1/2 OF THE OLD GSKET ,i just set the bottom pan on the wet cacking ,and tighten after about 2 or 3 hours ,, the oil pump gets in stalled AFTER the botom pan ...NEVER FIRST ..... THE BROKEN BOLT i just drill a 3/8 .HOLE IN THE BROKEN BOLT and install a 5/16 coarse WITH A NUT ON THE TOP ,,,,,,,, amost 50 years ,,,,,,,,
I watched again today, just as enjoyable as first time, thanks Lewis
That’s great! Thanks for watching
A vital part of troubleshooting is understanding how a system works
Fuel systems, ignition systems, sealing systems, propulsion systems, etc. are all part of the machine. Keep learning and your projects will get easier and better.
You made a few assumptions but not many. Most of all you aren't afraid to THINK, and that's half the battle. The more you think and do, the more do, the more you will learn. Every bit of knowledge you gain is like adding another tool to your toolbox, and the more you learn the bigger your toolbox will be. Don't stop.
It's not my intent to imply that you made mistakes, you *LEARNED* and you didn't give up! That's awesome. You did a hell of a job. Well done.
Thank you!
Good job getting this thing to run properly. As you mentioned I hope someone did not sabotage the engine but I’m thinking it was sabotaged so someone could benefit from it.
Thanks! Yeah, I hope it wasn’t sabotaged, but it could have been
I love your video, you are doing everything wrong, reminds me of myself 60years ago, i give you an A+ on your report card for the entertaining effort you put out. thanks Lewis
😂Thanks!
The more you get into them the more you will learn . keep wrenching thanks for taking time to video.
Thanks for watching!
watching again today, Lewis
Nice work Brother! Sometimes the only way to learn how to fix something is to figure out how it broke! Keep wrenching!
Thanks!
Really enjoy Garage Story. Have JD Z445 with broken piston rod and make it so possible to repair it. Thanks, keep the good stories coming.
Governor issues 😮 Glad you are going to get it fixed and running right garage story
Like someone said, need to learn how an engine works first, then this gets much easier... I started by watching all the UA-cam mower repair channels I could find, I now fix all my own equipment and do some for friends.
Put another ground cable on the engine block. More grounds seems better.
Many people use a steel wire brush on a drill to remove gasket material successfully. I’ve used a brass brush on a drill. Installing a dry gasket can work, but coating the gasket ahead of time with an ATF and 2-stroke fuel mix will soften the gasket a little, allowing it to conform better to surface irregularities. I also sometimes coat one or both surfaces of the machine or gasket with a thin coat of Threebond 1184 and let it dry well before assembling. Threebond 1184 is self-leveling so it’ll make a nice layer if held horizontally while setting up.
Thanks for the info!
I recently was given my brother's old Snapper Zero Turn mower. It had sat for 5 years. I found your videos and have been learning your work. Thanks for making your videos. I did get my Snapper running. Works like a Dream after unsticking the bowl solenoid. Still watching your videos as I'm learning now for future events that might happen. 🤓👍
That’s great! Enjoy the zero turn, they are fun. I’m glad you have found my videos helpful- I still have much to learn myself.
Great job, you must have been super happy on the first start!
I was! But it still doesn’t run right 😭
I enjoy your channel always good information keep up the good work
Thank you!
Wow, very involved, but really useful video! Thanks for posting!
seals are tricky sometimes. I have done both, install seal seperate or already in sump cover. Put some grease on the crank shaft, and when the seal first meets the larger part of shaft, use a pick to hold lip down so it does not roll. Once it starts the correct way then slide it the rest of the way down. Also a good trick to remove seal only, is take two drywall screws , drill small holes, one on each side of the old seal. Screw the drywall screws in and it will push the old seal out. Great job, thank you for your videos , my friend :)
Good job getting into that engine. The more you take apart, the more confidence you gain. I would suggest a torch and air hammer for your shop for those stubborn pulleys. Good work as always and keep on sharing those stories!
Thanks! I would like to get a torch someday
This is the OLD MAN @ Eliminator Performance in Canada wishing you and your family a safe and happy holiday season. Congratulations on your first tear down and repair. You should be proud of what you have accomplished and as you continue on you will be able to purchase more tools and stuff that make your wrenching easier, faster, safer and basically pay back their original cost just in time savings. Just a few things to consider: assembly lube, bearing and seal installation tools. First time i have caught your channel so i am now subbed. The number one rule to keep in mind is you learn by doing and you learn more when you make mistakes.
Thank you!
@@garagestory Yep guaranteed whoever worked on it before allowed the push rod to fall into the crankcase and did not want to let the customer know. You would be surprised how many two cylinder engines come in running on one cylinder and the customer did not know. Would not think that a reputable shop would do this but you never know.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Your videos have been an excellent learning tool for me!
That’s great! Thank you for watching!
You definitely have (wisdom and knowledge),you are a deep thinker,keep up good work
Thank you! I appreciate the compliment!
You really went into that one. Nothing more American than the fix and flip.
People don’t fix and sell things in other countries?
@@garagestory they do for sure. However i think we coined it.
That bottom crankshaft seal does not get pushed in all the way, there is a hole that allows oil to flow to lubricate the bottom bearing surface. i could not tell from the video if you pressed it too far, but it looked close.
I’m pretty sure that hole was not covered- I tried to be careful about that
You have good common sense. Great job buddy for your first time
Thanks!
You can get a seal over a shoulder or lip by wrapping the shaft with thin plastic or metal first. Soda can, milk or water jug, plastic from a bag of dog food, etc. Lubricate, of course, to make it easier to slide the seal down.
Huge congratulations on your first engine disassembly! It’s a big deal! What a great feeling when it finally all goes back together and actually runs! 👍
Thanks!
To clean those sump gaskets I've always used a wire wheel on a drill I've done a while bunch that way
Those are the kind of things I wonder about doing, but I’m afraid to mess up the gasket surface. That would have saved a TON of time.
What kind of wire wheel do you use?
Do you put on the gasket dry, or with sealer as well?
@@garagestory i put a wire wheel on drill cheep 3 inch from orielys and the gasket i hang it on wire and spray paint them lightly and install them when there still tacky
Do you know if the wire wheel is steel or brass or something else?
That’s interesting on the gasket, I don’t know if I’ve ever heard of using spray paint.
@@garagestory just cheep wire wheel i use the wheel its about three inches long and about 3 inches across kinda looks like a cone
I'm not sure if it was mentioned already or not, but for the Silicone or RTV gasket material, you can use WD-40 to "solve" it and make it easier to remove. As for the crankcase gasket, you can use a butane torch to "crisp" the remains of the gasket and make it easier to remove after being crushed in place for god knows how long. Cheers!
Thanks for the tips!
Hello my friend,
I watch your videos a lot and from watching this one take it from me as I am a 40 plus years mower mechanic and what your doing and how your doing a professional couldn't be any better and for myself you are doing great.
Keep up with your great videos and I really hope we can actually get together someday to work on a troubled mower.
Good luck and I like your shop set up as well.
Keep on going your doing fine.
The trouble that you experienced with the lifters was another mechanic taking a shortcut that actually doesn't work and he didn't know what he was doing,I was even surprised the engine even ran!.
Thank you for the kind words!!
Thank you for not quitting! Was hoping this might help with my issue. Nothing as complicated as what you dove into. I replaced my seat switch because the engine was dying when I pulled in the left handle. That did not correct it. Was preparing to load on trailer and take to shop, cut the grass. Next time it did it again. Not sure where to start. I'm just a 60 year old lady. Is there a switch in the left arm? Or any other ideas you might have. Thank you for doing a great job
Yes, both arms should have their own safety switches. If it dies when you pull in the handle, I think that would mean the switch is working. Usually if pulling in the handle kills the motor, that’s because the system thinks the parking break is on.
I have another video or two where I went into the electrical system further. Those might be of help possibly.
@@garagestory not a pro at UA-cam. How do I find it? Thank you for responding!
Here are two of the videos:
ua-cam.com/video/58RH-MxNcAg/v-deo.htmlsi=oihb9Gv09bNb0xo4
ua-cam.com/video/L3j_ArNjRt4/v-deo.htmlsi=xmWBXYMEl91ewlBD
Hope that there is something useful for you in there!
@@garagestory thank you very much!
You can adjust the final RPM speed, up or down, by bending the tab that the governor spring hangs on. Briggs has a special tool for that, even though it's just a rod with a slot in it, and some needle nose pliers will do just fine.
Nice work!
Thanks!
Metal bits created from drilling or tapping are called “swarf”.
Keep it up, man!
Thank you!
well done....
Thank you!!
If you hold the straight razor as perpendicular as possible to the mating surface and just hold it as flat as possible, then "scratch" back and forth you will not damage the mating surface at all and will be much faster
I’m learning! I didn’t realize that was how it was done till a few days ago 😂.
Move trash receptacles away from under or next to workbenches. I’ve lost more than one tool that rolled, fell or vibrated off a bench into the trash and didn’t miss it until after the trash went out. I’d probably dump that one out on the floor or a tarp to make sure nothing you need is going to get thrown out. 🔧😉
propane torch the gasket and scrape while still hot .
What’s the relay part number please?? Thank you.
Just found it on your other video.
Glad you found it!
you did a great job at staying with it. that is how you learn. just fyi, next time look into using a helicoil on the threads on a hole like that.
After that bolt was drilled, just use a longer bolt and a nut.
as long as it works. great job.@@woodchipper1980
Used Vaseline instead of Grease for assembly Lube
Gasket Removal spray
U need a scotch brite roloc disc on a die grinder. 2 minutes and no more gasket
The valves were probably never adjusted and got loose. Most people don’t know any better and run to failure then freak out when you tell them how much it’s gonna cost them. Looks like someone didn’t know what they were doing.
Your ladder will be fine mounted on the outside of the shed instead of taking up precious wall space inside.
Do good 👍
Thanks!
I admire your will to jump in blind 🤔
😁
That’s how I learn!
18:38 people can be incredibly stupid, that's how.
Bet them plastic blades are in the trash can now! lol
Next time when you have a thru bolt hole like that just put a nut on a bolt
I thought about it!
You need to put it on a bench to work on it.
My bench is too crowded…..
Use helicoil
I could have, but I don’t think it was too big of a deal to just use a larger bolt.
wow good video thx Ed Loretto Ontario Canada ,,,PS i never us a new gasket ,,only cocking , USUALLY I ONLY CLEAN 1/2 OF THE OLD GSKET ,i just set the bottom pan on the wet cacking ,and tighten after about 2 or 3 hours ,, the oil pump gets in stalled AFTER the botom pan ...NEVER FIRST ..... THE BROKEN BOLT i just drill a 3/8 .HOLE IN THE BROKEN BOLT and install a 5/16 coarse WITH A NUT ON THE TOP ,,,,,,,, amost 50 years ,,,,,,,,