Great video man, always like your stuff and humor. One thing, I can't believe Harley says 144 to 156 in lbs on those primary bolts. That is 12 to 13 Ft lbs! Way to much for a 1/4" steel bolt into aluminum. This is the main reason the long 1/4" bolt that threads through the outer and inner primary into the motor strips out frequently. I use the old standard of 90 to 110 In lbs (7.5 to 9 FT lbs) and generally go with 8 Ft lbs with blue loctite. I tighten the long bolts that thread into the motor by feel. Never had an issue. Just food for thought.
Great video series!! I’m wondering if you can go through the wiring harness if at all possible on the m8? Thanks for a great explanation on engine work
Thanks for the presentation Patrick... Which is a better primary drive sprocket to replace the OEM compensator, a 'solid' type or one with a cush drive (eg Dark Horse Man-O-War)? Which is the better primary drive chain tensioner, the OEM, or aftermarket (eg Screamin' Eagle, Baker, Hayden)?
Isnt the mainshaft sprocket nut a right hand thread? So you would turn clockwise to loosen it, and counterclockwise to thread it back on? It says right hand threaded on the nut itself.
Relatively new to working on motorcycles and I have a question. Why do you torque down a bolt, loosen it, then retorque it? It seems counterproductive.
Torque to yield bolts you back it off the degrees the specs require then you torque it again and it literally expands to the perfect spec. In short it’s the ideal mfg torque specs that they have found and sometimes you have to back it off xxx* degrees for the bolt to expand correctly, usually these need to be replaced every time in auto head applications and other motorcycle heads.
I was reading comments just to see if I was the only one that caught that. I knew for a fact i laid them all out in the right order and then seen him do that and it had me lost for a min.
Actually, 1/2” air impact is the way to remove it while the belt is still on it with belt deflection. You ding dongs have no business showing these unprofessional incorrect ways.
I used ur videos to change my cam and believe YOU are most professional of all the Harley mechanics and I trust ur advice .
Facts, same
I did the same entire can chest replaced all S&S no issues runs great. Great videos
That scene when he put the rear wheel on 😂😂
I honestly don’t work on my own bike, I just enjoy watching these videos
Patrick… always the best!! 👍✌️
Great video Patrick!! I’m going to use all your M8 motor build videos when in start my motor rebuild!!
I didn't break eye contact with you one time when you were prepping that rear axle.
Very nice quality video!
Great video man, always like your stuff and humor. One thing, I can't believe Harley says 144 to 156 in lbs on those primary bolts. That is 12 to 13 Ft lbs! Way to much for a 1/4" steel bolt into aluminum. This is the main reason the long 1/4" bolt that threads through the outer and inner primary into the motor strips out frequently. I use the old standard of 90 to 110 In lbs (7.5 to 9 FT lbs) and generally go with 8 Ft lbs with blue loctite. I tighten the long bolts that thread into the motor by feel. Never had an issue. Just food for thought.
good video don't forget to make sure the snap ring on the .primary
bearing is not covering the oil hole in the inner primary cover.
Great video series!! I’m wondering if you can go through the wiring harness if at all possible on the m8? Thanks for a great explanation on engine work
Good and very informative video. Are you going to run stock transmission with solid sprocket and chain drive?
Thanks for the presentation Patrick...
Which is a better primary drive sprocket to replace the OEM compensator, a 'solid' type or one with a cush drive (eg Dark Horse Man-O-War)?
Which is the better primary drive chain tensioner, the OEM, or aftermarket (eg Screamin' Eagle, Baker, Hayden)?
Sry but that nut its is not a left hand thread ?
Isnt the mainshaft sprocket nut a right hand thread? So you would turn clockwise to loosen it, and counterclockwise to thread it back on? It says right hand threaded on the nut itself.
Is it good to put a solid compensator won't it hurt the clutchibasket and the drive chain and the transmission
Would it be necessary to do this driveline update if adding the S&S 124?
Nice
FXLRをチェーンドライブに改造したのですがスイングアーム下のスペーサーに当たりますがなにかいい方法はないでしょうか？
What is the brand of solid compensator?
@ 3.34 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
💯
Relatively new to working on motorcycles and I have a question. Why do you torque down a bolt, loosen it, then retorque it? It seems counterproductive.
Torque to yield bolts you back it off the degrees the specs require then you torque it again and it literally expands to the perfect spec. In short it’s the ideal mfg torque specs that they have found and sometimes you have to back it off xxx* degrees for the bolt to expand correctly, usually these need to be replaced every time in auto head applications and other motorcycle heads.
@@jon5423 I see. Thank you for the explanation.
THis Patrick guy now at Revzilla?
@@jon5423 He was at J&P not FM.
Is the small spring in the compensator correctly installed?
I was wondering the same thing because on disassembly mine was facing the next gear. It was cupped facing the flat wall of the three-pointed piece
I was reading comments just to see if I was the only one that caught that. I knew for a fact i laid them all out in the right order and then seen him do that and it had me lost for a min.
Actually, 1/2” air impact is the way to remove it while the belt is still on it with belt deflection. You ding dongs have no business showing these unprofessional incorrect ways.