How Strong Do You Need To Be?
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2022
- Our friends over at Kilter set us a challenge, a very pinchy challenge! The Kilterboard is known for having some amazing grips and some great pinches. However most grip strength training methods these days use a hangboard and train crimp grips. But what about pinch strength? We ran a little experiment with our climbing coaches to see how closely pinch strength actually relates to board climbing. It turns out quite a lot!
We first tested our pinch strength on the Lattice Quad Block (latticetraining.com/product/q...) to see who was the strongest. We then got to work on the list of blocs Kilter had set us, list below;
V4+: Game of Thrones Season 8 (45º)
V5+: Vice City (45º)
V6: Pinch-E(45º)
V8: Press Du Sau! (40º&45º)
V9: Wyoming Japanese (50º)
V10: Arrested Particulate (40º)
And if you make it that far....
V11: D004 (45º)
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/
Download the Crimpd App:
App store - itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimp...
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gotta say, finger positioning on the kilterboard pinches matters a lot
gotta be gentle and precise when fingering them pinches
Yay! This video was awesome! Jackie is the best! I absolutely love climbing on the Kilter board. Also their holds are the bomb!!!
Brilliant demonstration of pinch strength!
Nice work team!
that was actually quite fun to watch!
Trained pitches randomly cause they looked cool to climb on and improved my climbing tenfolds by mistake
I made my own pinchblock a couple of months ago, and I'm training with it twice a week. It sure helps me climb better (mostly because it costs me less effort to stay on holds)
Kilter+Lattice= Ultimate Collab
We ❤Lattice
Would you say the pinch sizes correlate to your wood block, especially the big one? I struggle so much with that, would be nice to compare :)
My experience with wooden pinch blocks has been that conditions and careful skin preparation (I have very dry skin, dry fire off slopey holds often and find that treatments like rhino spit are useful) make a huge difference to performance. I bought one of these metal pinch blocks recently hoping it would give more consistent results but found it to very similar: skin preparation was critical to maximise my grip much like the wooden blocks. My inference is that skin type may play as big a role as actual strength in these scores. Not sure how that could be tested objectively but would be interesting to see results if anyone could devise a study.
Rhino skin is worth it?
On a Fingertraining day with some very easy, technical climbing: Is it good to incorporate both Hangboarding and Pinchtraining? Or is hangboarding enough?
its nice to see that strenght is strongly corroleting with abillity of climbing certian grades. i had argued with people on several occasion when they were saying that strenght is overated and its not that important.
I'm not disagreeing with you, but I think most climbers, especially semi-casual ones, overestimate strength in general and specifically specialized strength training (such as the kind lattice does with their athletes) for what grade people climb
@@Angus_fO yeah i get what you are saying. people try to compensate lack of technique with strenght. an thinking they can climb that V5 or V6 pr whatever beacause they are not strong enought, and they go on a strenght training program, while the primary issue was improper technique. in my opinion flexibillity and stabillity training is as much if not more important than strenght traning early on. just climbin by itself would be enought to develop strenght.
Can you do a video similiar to the pull up / finger strength one where you find an average pinch strength of climbers? That would be cool to see
Plssssss Do a pinch training and show your improvement on the wall (before and after)
Did anyone count the "come on's"? 😆
Lucky I have my sexy new Lattice quad block. I’m going to need it as I have the weight without the length 😫
Why was the testing protocol structured so strength testing and the climbing was on the same day? This could show up with invalid and/or unreliable results due to lack thereof intramuscular glucose and rather potentially testing the ATP-PC System, which is pretty much how much your body can recover energy supply to the forearm muscles with the given time inter attempt.
Very loose conclusion IMO. Put time into the Kilter and you'll get way better at those specific pinches without "strong" pinch-grip strength. Most people I know can pinch deadlift more than I can but I can send V8-11 pinch problems because I've done 400 Kilter boulders.
i can pinch 32kg but can only climb the easiest problem on the kilter, if even... you guys might want to try the pinch test again with your "weak" hand. it sounds crazy but i can hold like 1-1,5kg more with it. (normaly i'm right handed)
you should see how it is relative to your bodyweight
@@ok-wi7kt ~35%BW
your non-dominant hand being strong is called the "dumb hand theory" and there is some documentation on it :)
@@merciclimbing7224 i know of this "theory" but its not working for like every other exercise where my right hand/arm is stronger. its a myth inmo
She's strong AF
ok now invite Brian Shaw for this challenge
Obviously, you need to be strong enough to not fall off.
A human should at least be strong enough to open a can of Tuna in my honest opinion.
Great video, I do wonder if overall performance on more varied kilter problems is commensurate?
That is, people who were the strongest on pinch type problems were also the strongest on just general Kilter problems…
First
Kinda surprised Josh is so weak!
That's kinda rude