How to install vinyl siding starter strip
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- Опубліковано 19 січ 2023
- Here is a shorter video on how to install vinyl siding starter strip on a wall. Including: Setting the outside corners, figuring height and attaching vinyl siding starter strip, planning for the top of wall, and installing the first piece of vinyl siding.
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Nice video. I am repairing vinyl on a shed that had water damage and lost the starter strip. I built the shed 35 years ago and didn’t manage drainage well. Live and learn. All the best from north Texas.
Hey thanks! And yeah that’s the tough thing about projects that aren’t done correctly. You never know till years later! To be fair, I don’t think many people knew what they were supposed to do with Tyvek back then. You got some good life out of that siding though!
Its nice that you pay attention to that o/s corner being out of square and patching the holes in the typar, paying attention to the little things makes the job nicer.👍
It makes it easier too. The measurements stay the same going up. On this house the Typar was in rough shape, the framers must’ve dragged nail filled boards everywhere. We did a lot of taping and billed the builder for it.
You have so much more patience than me with working outdoors in the north-east winters. Im an hour south of you in Western MA and after 30 yrs of framing houses in the winter, my hat's off to ya man for being so easy going. I start swearing with my day, as soon as any piece of equipment doesn't operate or start! Especially the lull haha. I enjoy watching your page!
And you do nice quality installation work! Ive learned several things from watching your vids at night, since when we get slow, I'll take on siding some house's we framed. Great content and info man, i like it 👍
I figure the days are unpleasant, but there’s not much to do about that so I might as well make the most of it. Planning ahead helps if possible. But yeah winters are rough. I’ve done my share of framing in the winter and honestly I was pretty miserable lol. I’d rather side in the winter than frame, but they are both tough.
Thanks! And I’m glad you’re finding it all useful!
Hey Brandon what's up fellow side waller here from North Attleboro Mass.. good video other than the builder making you use all those little scraps of starter strip.i can tell you take pride in your work.cool trick that i do is put a 4" wide strip of vinyl under nail flange at j channel location and over nail fin of last row of siding before bottom of window. That will tred the water to the corner boards instead of just running down to the bottom of the wall.be safe out there 🙏
Hey thanks! And yeah the window trick is definitely a good practice! Some builders have the framers put pieces of step flashing on the bottom corners of the window openings before installing the windows to make it easier on us.
Bro I never seen someone hammer on the top of the tape tongue you legend
Well… it was technically the nail that was protruding up through the slot of my tape lol. I might’ve clipped my tape a couple times though. 😇
Interesting thing about tapes is not all of them read the same. I had a different brand and style tape than one of my employees and mine read 1/32” big and his read 1/32” small. So every cut he was making for me was 1/16” short.
@@sidingschool I'm literally siding just the back side of my house, takes me an hour just to think about what I''m doing LOL
It’s not a race, take your time and make sure the clips are fully engaged. Even if you have to measure every course until you get the feel for it. Good luck! 👍🏼
I always used midwest snips for cutting corners and such. that fin tool sure leaves a nice edge
For many years I used Andy snips to cut them, but you take a chance of the corner cracking. The oscillating tool is the safer choice in my opinion, just need to be very careful that it doesn’t take off on you.
i bought dewalts little 3" cutoff tool last year (any brand will do), mainly just to have a small tool in my truck for cutting thinner steel. it comes with three different cutoff wheels. just for the hell of it, i tried it on vinyl siding with the multi purpose disc it comes with. works like a charm. leaves a nice edge, and cuts great in cold temperatures. it really shines when you are cutting angled pieces for gables or little cut outs for fixtures. the only downside is the dust. one 4 or 5ah battery lasts a long time in the tool too.
Very helpful video! Thanks!
You’re welcome!
I use a framing square. Lay big leg on wall, slide it up till it makes contact with the bottom of the fascia board then mark the 1/2 inch increment. Instead of using a bubble
That works too! I’ve had a few times where the joint in the plywood was right there with like a 1/8” or more step and it was throwing the square off, so I just got used to using a level.
@@sidingschool I use a level when doing f channel on pole barns
Hi Brandon
Your staple guns 7/16 , 16g gauge staples ? , what length do you use ? The starter strip stapled flush ? , was it the same staple as the second gun that left the depth on the siding loose as required.
Hi Steve, the Senco shoots a 3/8” x 18 gauge staple up to 1.5”… that one actually doesn’t meet the minimum gauge thickness required for stapling siding. The Paslode shoots a 1/2” crown 16 gauge staple. I use 1 1/4” staples and staple directly to the sheathing and it holds fine. The VSI recommends fastening at least 1 1/4” into solid framing. As always, check your local codes and manufacturer for fastening requirements, as they do vary based on your location and the type of material you are installing.
@Siding School Brandon I'm going to do my off grid shop 12x20 this summer and like your method . I have 1/2 inch plywood walls so what length staple would you use. I also see you go with about a 3/16 spacing at the J Channel . I know all too well giving recommendations on youtube about anything but I also like to do things that work best and not necessarily by manufacturers' recommendations :) I'm on part 2 of the house series . Just awesome bud , you will do well on youtube.
Thanks man. :) I typically just stick with 1 1/4” staples that way hopefully no wires or plumbing gets hit by a staple…. Someone mentioned 3/8” gap at ends below 40 degrees and 1/4” gap above 40. That makes sense to me.
Looks great, Brandon.
You in the Keene area?
Thanks! I’m close to Keene, about 30 minutes southeast.
Great vid man, but if the section you’re on is over two stories and can’t quickly climb up to pull a measurement from the fascia, could you just snap a line for your starter strip an inch or two above the foundation given its level?
Thanks! Yep, if it’s above one story usually I set the bottom of the corner 1” below the top of foundation and use that as my starting point. I run the top long if possible and cut it off with an oscillating tool when I get up there.
Hi Bandon. Is there an Electric Staple gun that can be used to staple instead of the Paslode Pneumatic gun?
Hi Rob, I’m not sure if there’s any electric stapler that will do… I’d look for a 16 gauge 1/2” crown stapler and then try modifying the tip. Paslode used to make the im200 s16 - a gas powered stapler that you can still find a few places. In my experience the gas powered staplers can sometimes be a bit finicky though.
Dang, what tape do you have? I’ve never been able to pull it and not have it “snap” like that.
Hi carguy, It’s a 25’ Stanley fatmax. The round one. I think it is in my tool review video.
What kind of stapler are you using for the siding?
The stapler is a Paslode SCS200 and it uses a 16 gauge x 1/2” crown staple, the tip attachment is very difficult to find. You could fabricate your own by using an angle grinder to make a divot in the tip that comes on the stapler… I’ve tried that before on a hitachi stapler and it worked out pretty well. Good luck!
If you use a FatMax tape. The rubber outside is an eraser.
I guess I’m never too old to learn something new lol.
I install mostly windows and doors thinking about getting into siding as I get alot of requests I have done siding
There’s pretty good money in it… it’s important to bid correctly though. To do a good job on a re-side is pretty time consuming. I would typically figure 3-4 times longer than new construction. Then add some for profit if you want to stay in business! ✌️ Don’t be scared to lose a job, price for quality and a properly installed job that will protect their house, not just change the color and give a facelift.
Were are you using a staple gun in my state RI does not allow it them i just came across your channel
I’m out of southern NH. I’m always a little surprised when codes don’t allow staples… in my opinion they hold better. And some manufacturers actually give them a higher wind speed rating.
Crazy not far away from each other but big difference in codes
Do you ever use a laser starting siding
Not typically, sometimes it is helpful though. On new construction usually I try to find the top of the foundation and use that. On an older house it might be a better idea to just use a laser and establish the coursing layout all the way around before beginning, because often times the foundation has settled and also the eaves are different heights. Sometimes even in new construction the tops of foundations aren’t always perfectly level, but it is usually close enough to get a good result.
The main idea imo is to hit the top of the wall as close as possible to the same measurements for the last piece of siding on either corner and hopefully the bottoms of windows have even reveals too, so however that can be achieved… sometimes there’s no such thing as perfect - only ‘happy mediums’, or as I like to say ‘unhappy mediums’. lol
I would mostly be doing remodeling not new construction
So yeah, there’s usually ‘happy mediums’ with re-siding. A laser and receiver is a good way to do it. I’d go around the whole house shooting at least two walls at a time, then snap lines and measure up to the soffits and down to the bottom of wall to see how the measurements compare. If it is too far off you may be able to make a slight adjustment and run the siding a little out of level on longer walls to meet the soffits and bottom of the wall better… however I’d keep the windows in mind too, cause you don’t want those to be too tapered on the siding or land in different spots in the reveal.
Do you recommend a laser
They can be helpful… I worked without one for probably 8 years though. Not sure I can help you justify the cost lol. Without a receiver you have to wait till it’s darker out so you can see the line. If you’re going over really uneven surfaces and have many corners to set it can save some time by shooting multiple points in one go…. My answer is “It depends on the situation”. If you have the money and want to buy one to use for siding and other projects, I’d say go for it. I have rarely regretted buying a nice tool myself and always find other uses for things than what I bought them for… sorry probably not the answer you wanted. 😅
What’s with the strong?
It is a term used by tradesmen. If I say 1/4” “strong” it means just past 1/4” - in rough framing it means an extra 1/16”, but if I’m doing finish carpentry it will mean an extra 1/32”…. “Shy” means the opposite.
It's slang for a 16th over
why not just run your soffits first and bump ocp tight to it...your already doing the work by going up and leveling in off the facia...seems a bit backwards working up top first but gives a very tight finish and ensures perefct finish
That’s a good question… That would require either setting up a plank twice or installing all the soffit off from a ladder. In my experience it is faster to quickly toss the corners up then work the siding up as high as you can reach. Then you set up a plank and finish the top of the siding, soffit and metal all together…. Admittedly I did do this a little differently this time, because usually I just run the corner long on top and cut it later when I’m up there. The fit is always perfect either way.
@@sidingschool i wasnt knocking your work at all...i run soffit and facias first for this reason and another being that once i level the soffit in to the wall i can now measure down from the soffits and pop my starter line ensuring that my finisher is always exactly the same around the entire house...now this only applies to new construction work of course...remodel is a whole new animal
Oh, I didn’t take your comment as a slight against my work at all. And yeah, remodeling is a completely different beast and it requires a lot of out of the box thinking. Also having the corner posts the same length is a good idea, that way as you said the finishing “rip” of siding won’t be tapered.
Sorry but why is saying “strong” at the end of the measurement , I’m mechanic and welder but never heard this used before?
I guess I never explained what that means. It is sort of tradesmen slang… “strong” typically means 1/16” more than the stated measurement (when working finish carpentry it typically means 1/32” bigger) “shy” means either 1/16” or 1/32” short of the stated measurement (again depending on the tolerances of the work).
Thanks a lot for the reply and explanation.
No problem!
It's a trade term for anyone that measures something. "Strong" means add a sixteenth, weak means minus a sixteenth. Cunt hair weak or Strong depends on the ladles ya been with hahaha
--------------‐‐---------- measuring top down is OK .....measuring from your -- first 'intersection' could be bit better .....bottom of windows is your first intersection .....you'd want a even reveal under windows vs. very top ....no?
Keeping an even reveal on the bottom and tops of windows is a good way to do it as well (especially with fiber cement or wood siding!). Sometimes that is difficult to do when a framer shims the bottoms of their windows differently from each other. It would be even more problematic when the windows are closer together, as this would amplify the angle across the distance of the wall. I typically choose to use the bottom and tops of the walls to establish heights, that way you know you aren’t going to have to cross a rib in the siding at the top.
You guys should practice this before you do the video
This is an earlier video of me just working. When I first started my channel it was all raw footage, but I’ve started to focus more on the video quality lately. Thanks for your input!
I would never ever ever ever use staples. The only reason you use Staples is because you’re putting up a prefab home which all the sudden is gonna eventually buckle you saying it’s gonna move, but it ain’t gonna move once you hit those staples in when you line out a house, just so you know you started the lowest point of the house whether you’re down from the soffit or not you do not want your tape whatsoever. Otherwise your house is gonna look fucking crooked. I’m telling you. anyways there were some good things. I’m not saying anything bad too bad just saying do it yourself or I remove and replace Siding and I new home but I do not side construction homes.
Here’s some information you might find helpful regarding stapling vinyl siding:
The following is a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd
And here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf
I’m not sure exactly what you are trying to say, but the staple gun nose and air pressure are set so that the staples are not driven tight… the siding is free to expand and contract as it should. As I’ve proven with the above links, staples are approved by both the VSI and Certainteed.
I’ve installed vinyl siding for 16 years and can count my callbacks on less than one hand 🖐️. I agree that sometimes it is easier to hand nail on re-sides for various reasons.
Thanks for your comment!