Siding clamps- amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link) For my 3D Printed tools and digital plans- www.etsy.com/shop/ChadDIY My favorite tool in my shop! www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting?ref=ZD0p1c21pRes&variant=43897274630383
Reminds me of my father. He used to build 3 houses every summer from 1970 to about 2005. He did everything except the drywall and roofing as that is very labor intensive. He totally worked alone and was very fast
@@pleasetrylater6832 More like a house every 6 weeks based on the summer lengths in Ohio. When he started in 1970 a 1000 square foot house was acceptable. When he stopped building in the early 2000's They were 1500 sq feet mostly. His niche was building starter homes for young couples that were affordable. He could sell them cheaper by installing much lower end (cheaper) kitchen cabinets and counters. These were items they could upgrade later as their income increased. Just like some car companies make corvettes for the wealthier, others make Honda civics. My dad made lower end priced homes for people starting out. My dad built about 60 houses over that time. I realize the math does not work out from 1970 to 2005 as there were real-estate dry spells where he had to have a heating furnace service business to make ends meet.
I usually don't have a lot of problems with roofing unless there's a lot to tear off (2 layers or more). And I do need a helper to help me stretch out tar paper. Putting on shingles is the easy part. : )
Easily one of the best if not THE best diy videos ever on YT . Thank you for making it simple, no nonsense, mentioning the tools needed and helpful tips. Even ended with humor. This is exactly what I needed. Great job my man!
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
I've used the clamps on SmartSide siding. They do work ok, but there is a bit of variability on the thickness of the siding due to the texture. The clamps sometimes slip, which can be really inconvenient when you are working off a ladder! One thing you might consider on future projects: The window trim should be 5/4" so that the edges of the siding are not exposed. There is a 5/4 SmartSide trim product that works great. I sided a house years ago with 3/4 trim and the exposed siding ends, even when faithfully painted, do not hold up as well. Great Video! Thanks.
Hello Greg, great point on the thicker trim! When I did this project I didn't know they made the 5/4. Also the clamps can be a little tricky. I found that I couldn't clamp them down tight, or else the siding would fall through the back of them. Overall, they did work very well I thought. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you, this is only the second siding video I have found online that shows the use of those clamps. I bought a smaller, perfect rectangle house with all flat sides. Built in 1984, on a lake so lots of moisture. The original siding is there, in poor condition and someone slapped hideous vinyl siding over styrofoam a couple years ago. It feels and looks like an old fashioned waterproof plastic diaper and it is bug heaven underneath. Tar paper wrap. I cannot wait to carefully remove everything to inspect the walls and studs for water damage before wrapping it all up, and replacing the awful original windows that were never even flashed I think. I have a concrete foundation, thank goodness. Doing it all myself, with the help of great video instruction like this.
I would advise you to rethink before installing siding yourself especially if you've never done it before. There is not one single video on youtube that shows you how to install it correctly including this guy's. Theyre all hacks. There are already numerous mistakes and this is just one wall. To do it right is more involved than most people think. And if installed incorrectly it will create mold, rot and cause damage to your framing all of which are costly to fix and will compound quickly in an are with a lot of moisture. If you still decide to do it yourself I would recommend you use the best materials available like for housewrap use Hydrogap drainable wrap and for caulking use Quad Max it stays flexible and wont crack and let water in like the cheap stuff. between the trim and the window leave about a 1/4"-3/8" gap and stuff foam backer rod 3/8" deep and fill with caulking. Dont butt the trim up to the window frame like this guy did, it leaves barely any room for caulking. This is really important step because vinyl windows expand and contract and it you have a tiny bead of cheap caulk it will crack and let water in and deteriorate everything a lot faster. VS a 3/8x3/8" bead of high quality caulk which will easily be able to expand and contract providing years of trouble free service. Also preprime and precaulk the cuts on the trim where they butt up to each other. These steps are critical in achieving a solid installation that will last many years trouble free. Flashing above horizontal protrusions like window trim and such is also crucial. If you have any questions please feel free to ask Ive worked many years for siding company in Oregon that doesnt take shortcuts like most people.
Also dont use housewrap at the joints like he did. It is not UV rated for very long and will deteriorate eventually. Instead use 5x7 metal flashing you can pick up a pack of 100 for like 25 bucks at a siding supplier. Caulking the joints is optional but not recommended. instead install with moderate contact or leave 1/16" gap
@@senyashchukin391 I didn't read your whole post but I agree. This guy had no business posting this video. Siding is a trade that takes years to learn, it's an art, not to mention its THEE waterproofing for your house. So "No" you can't "Do It Yourself" and its not cheap. But go ahead, roll the dice, and see if you can keep your house 100% waterproof for the next 30 years. One wrong move could cost you 10,20,$40,000 down the road or more....just pay somebody...
How has it held up since you installed it, especially the bottom rows? Any cracked paint lines effect at the bottom side of the panels due to moisture absorption? 6 years ago I bought an old house with hip style roof with 2.5 ft overhangs. House had beaded cedar mill look Masonite siding that was face nailed and to many of my contractor's surprise it was still in pretty good shape, despite years of neglect. I couldn't find a matching siding so after remodeling I decided to replace it. When I took off the old siding, I was shocked to see that the only damage was on the bottom front of the first two rows and top rows were as as stiff and clean as brand new. And I really loved the cedar mill look. So now I want to install something similar and LP smart siding is the closest as far as the look goes. But I feel hesitant to use it after reading up all the negative feedback about it. Part of me says if Masonite siding could last on this house, LP siding should be just fine too. However my old siding had a smooth curved shape at the bottom, unlike the LP smart siding's rough shape, which makes me think that it may be more likely to absorb water and hence prone to a quicker failure, if I don't get a good paint coverage fast enough. I suppose those oversized overhangs on the house can only protect it so much. Oddly enough fiber cement siding is about the same price right now but my walls are anything but true or flat, so if needed, the face nailing may be out of question for fiber cement. So I'm looking for some honest feedback and recommendations from homeowner who have installed LP siding.
My LP siding has held up very well. I think any bad reviews you read about LP is from the stuff they made many years ago. The new stuff they make today seems to hold up great! Good luck with your decision!
good clear video. I've done close to a dozen structures now with Hardie (or other) siding. (I have a ranch with lots of cabins) One comment I'd make is that using siding nails on the trim is not ideal. Using them on the trim is unsightly and has to be caulked or something to make it look ok. Try instead to find stainless brad nails, like 2" long that you can use in your brad nail gun. I have a 16 Gauge nail gun, and no problem finding them, but they do make 18 gauge too if that is all you have. I've done this for maybe 5 years or more now and the trim is ON there. You can use extra nails as there is no visible problem. I've pried them off from time to time and for sure they hold well enough to never worry about the trim just "slowly loosening and coming off". By using the brad nails, no need for filling. The hole is small enough that the paint afterwards fills the hold and it becomes "invisible". I try to always use stainless siding nails anyway, (the siding IS constructed with cement and that is quite hard on regular nails, so that rust will show. Stainless keeps that Rust from happening.)
Yeah, Menards is my go to over Home Depot and Lowes. And yes, always a good idea to paint the cut edges. It slows the process down a little, but well worth it!
Hello, no I just caulked over the nails and then painted everything. You would have to look really close to tell where the nails are at, and it is kind of hidden under the overhangs as well.
Hello, I just followed how the manufacturer suggested to do it on new construction. Added the battens could help with drainage forsure if any water gets behind the siding.
What do you think of using the dewalt cordless roofing nailer with the siding attachment? I have a job coming up and I’m debating getting it so I don’t have to deal with a compressor and what not.
Hello, I believe the dewalt attachment is for vinyl siding only, so if that is what you are doing it should work. The siding in this video is LP Smartside, so you would want a dedicated siding nailer for that...good luck!
So when the foundation comes out further than the green plate is it standard to just side to the osb? Because I thought usually the siding should go past the green plate/ treated base of your exterior walls.
Hello, I guess I'm not sure what you would do with that. I have only worked with concrete slab foundation, so the green pressure treated bottom board goes right to the very edge of the slab.
Would it be easier to paint the planks first? That way it could be done in a controlled environment and not dependent on weather conditions outdoors? Thank you for the video!
You only nail the top part of the siding? What keeps the bottom from lifting up like with the wind ? I'm because I want to do this to my mobile home. Thank you
Great video. Why didn't you use the specific metal spacers for the butt joints? Also, I believe your not supposed to finger the OSI caulking after applying.
Thanks! I didn't use the spaces, because I didn't get pre painted siding, so as long as I was going to paint everything, it was easier to paint caulk than the spacers. You might be right on applying the caulk. I just did what I thought looked the best.
Looks just like my detached garage which flooded last year. How do you prevent water from coming in? Shouldn't there be some flashing before you put on the starter piece?
Hello Jack, I didn't use any flashing because I was building off a concrete slab so it doesn't matter if it got wet. If you are getting any flooding it sounds like it might be a grading problem with the ground around your garage.
My only question is where did you get those clamps at I'm always making jigs and having to have some one help on each end love the do it your self clamp
Hello, I'm not sure what 105 drop siding is. I just have house wrap on the outside and did fiberglass batts on the inside between the studs for insulation
Thanks! I believe I used 7 inch siding with an 1 1/2 inch over lap. I think the instructions said it had to be a minimum of 1 inch overlap...but make sure to check the instructions before you install.
After I did this, I saw a heated slab house like mine that had metal flashing that started on the OSB and then wrapped around the 2" pink foam. I should have done that! I am not too worried now though, the siding sticks out far enough so really water wicking back shouldn't be much of an issue, and if it does...The sill 2 by 6's are all pressure treated...time will tell though!
Hello Emaley, I think the air gap all depends on what type of siding you are using. I used L.P. smartside and this is the standard way it is installed in my area. I know some types of siding require the air gap material installed first. It really can vary though!
I didn't have a nail gun to install my cement siding, so I resorted to hand nailing. This didn't work very well. I decided about half way thru the job to predrill nail hole. The bits wore out endlessly because of the abrasiveness of the siding. So whilst drilling, I accidently snapped off yet another drill bit tip. Lo and behold, It worked better broken. So then I went and bot a 24 pack of 1/8 in bits and nipped the tips off all of them. It worked so well that I had no problems predrilling nail holes. Who'd have thot a broken drill bit works better than a sharp one for predrilling holes in concrete siding. Likewise I've found it easier to score and snap the siding instead of fighting with a skill saw.
Thanks for the comment and the tips Terry. All the issues you ran into are the reason I used LP Smartside instead of cement board. The LP cuts just like wood. They both look great once installed though!
Can all seams match or should you use different sizes of siding to not have the seams match? Im siding 1 side of my home where i could use 12' pieces of siding.
Hello David, you will want to stagger the seems when you install the siding. Just cut some of the siding to different lengths to get the random seem pattern. Good luck!
Someone just did my siding but they put the nails on the bottom too. Is that bad? It doesn't look nice like yours because your nails are hidden by the next layer of siding. Did they do it wrong?
Been there, done that a few times. Had help buy let him go, spent too much time on his cell phone, in the bath room and late to work. I bought a pair of those clamps, I call them Kenny.
I would seriously think about Z flashing and flashing tape over the outlet cover trip. I know its a protected circuit but its a real pain if the GFCI trips everytime it rains. I know becuse ive got one that does this. Granted its not as fancy a box And your vapor cover blocks water intrusion but its cheap insurance. Well worth the effort. You also should have done the window. The main reason for wood rot is poor flashing its worth the effort to add the extra protections. It dosnt take much water to start the rotting process becuse wood behind a outside surface wont dry out as fast then if it wasn't covered up so its best to keep the water away as best as possible.
What are the spacer hanging clamps you used, and what do they set the overlap at? Kind of important to know to figure coverage. If you overlap 1/2" or over lap 3/4" you could land 1 sheet short But also if you do a story stick you could space the laps to land full lap on the last top lap or close enough a trim board covers the gap at the top. Do the hanging clamps adjust?
@@chaddiy3512 Yes I looked at them, but id still do a story stick so I know where my laps tops land on a wall so I don't have to cut out for a window and land on it without adjustment or trimming one of them. Thats what they showed on this old house. I like the trim part you put on the outlet box but look above I made a point about flashing. My house is over 25 years old you really can tell when flashing wasnt done right or poor techniques were used when it was built. Its smart to look at things and why they failed then get at idea how to make them better with just a little extra work. My house has the Abit siding on it. The remedy by the manufacture was to paint it. Trust me ive seen houses by me that got plenty of paint on them and still look like crap. It was a piss poor product. Basically cardboard sheets. Paints only as good as the substrate under it. Back when my house was built they didn't use Typar and the sheting is OSB. Ive got plenty of water damaged wood. Ive seen it on sevral houses. I dont even like treated wood for trim work. The PVC holds up a lot better. It just cost more. But that also depends on what profile you use 2x or 1x Thanks that is a pretty cool tool ill have to buy a pair when I replace my lap siding. You think somone would come out with a system for sheet goods that works just as good. Around here they started to lap the sheet goods insted of using z flashing between sheets with a trim board over them it looks a lot nicer. I say this becuse my house is 2 story with walk out basment so ive got areas 3 and 4 sheets up 10x4 or 9x4
Chad my friend is replacing some siding on one side of her house but on a 14 ft height to 25 ft lengths a few pieces to replace. Do you have to start from the bottom up or can we go from top to bottom. We are only replacing what's needed. Please advise.
Hello, you can just replace the bad boards. They can be a little tricky to get the old ones out. I have done it with a crowbar lifting up the bad board and then use a sawsall to cut the nails hold the siding in place. Good luck!
That is a starter strip so the next board will be at in angle like the rest of them. Without that, the first board will be flat against the wall and the rest of the boards going up will be at angles as they over lap each other.
It sure can! You just need to pry up the bad boards from the bottom. Then use a sawzall with long metal blade to cut the nails holding the bad board. Then insert new board and face nail it. I have done it before, and it isn't too hard. Good luck!
Where did you find coil nails and nailer that shoot the recommended .113 nails? Im having trouble locating a coil nailer that shoots that large, and the nails to go with it. Thanks!
Hello Aj, I just used a regular siding nailer and .090 nails. Had no problems with that size nail holding well. To do the .113 nails I think you would have to use a framing nailer. Good luck on your siding!
Siding clamps- amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)
For my 3D Printed tools and digital plans- www.etsy.com/shop/ChadDIY
My favorite tool in my shop! www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting?ref=ZD0p1c21pRes&variant=43897274630383
Thank you! Everyone else didn't show first board placement! You also showed how to do seams. You are amazing!!
Thanks, I'm glad you found it helpful!
That's the first ive seen lp spliced that way, they make a splice to cover the seams. Ive seen concrete board done like that tho!
That's not how you do seams. Hope you watched another video
LP makes joint clips to hide your joints
This is the best instructional video on installing siding that I have seen. Thanks.
Thanks...I appreciate the comment!
Reminds me of my father. He used to build 3 houses every summer from 1970 to about 2005. He did everything except the drywall and roofing as that is very labor intensive. He totally worked alone and was very fast
Wow, That is very impressive to do 3 houses a summer. He must have been a hard working to get that all done by himself!
Building the house is labor intensive lmao
@@pleasetrylater6832 More like a house every 6 weeks based on the summer lengths in Ohio. When he started in 1970 a 1000 square foot house was acceptable. When he stopped building in the early 2000's They were 1500 sq feet mostly. His niche was building starter homes for young couples that were affordable. He could sell them cheaper by installing much lower end (cheaper) kitchen cabinets and counters. These were items they could upgrade later as their income increased. Just like some car companies make corvettes for the wealthier, others make
Honda civics. My dad made lower end priced homes for people starting out. My dad built about 60 houses over that time. I realize the math does not work out from 1970 to 2005 as there were real-estate dry spells where he had to have a heating furnace service business to make ends meet.
I usually don't have a lot of problems with roofing unless there's a lot to tear off (2 layers or more). And I do need a helper to help me stretch out tar paper. Putting on shingles is the easy part. : )
@@lazybbones Humping the bundles up a ladder can be brutal
Easily one of the best if not THE best diy videos ever on YT . Thank you for making it simple, no nonsense, mentioning the tools needed and helpful tips. Even ended with humor. This is exactly what I needed. Great job my man!
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words!
@@chaddiy3512 you're welcome 🙂
Thank you. Very helpful to me since I've never sided a house before. You make it look easy.
Glad I could help!
Excellent video!!! You get right to the point and show :"how to" very well and easy to understand. Thank you for the great tips! Jim
Thanks Jim for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it!
You have the gift of teaching! Very well explained. Thank you brother for sharing! You have a new subscriber.
I appreciate the kind words, and thanks for subscribing!
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
I've used the clamps on SmartSide siding. They do work ok, but there is a bit of variability on the thickness of the siding due to the texture. The clamps sometimes slip, which can be really inconvenient when you are working off a ladder! One thing you might consider on future projects: The window trim should be 5/4" so that the edges of the siding are not exposed. There is a 5/4 SmartSide trim product that works great. I sided a house years ago with 3/4 trim and the exposed siding ends, even when faithfully painted, do not hold up as well. Great Video! Thanks.
Hello Greg, great point on the thicker trim! When I did this project I didn't know they made the 5/4. Also the clamps can be a little tricky. I found that I couldn't clamp them down tight, or else the siding would fall through the back of them. Overall, they did work very well I thought. Thanks for the comment!
@@chaddiy3512 Yup...I've had them fall through the back too, but this is the best solo solution I've found.
Thank you, this is only the second siding video I have found online that shows the use of those clamps. I bought a smaller, perfect rectangle house with all flat sides. Built in 1984, on a lake so lots of moisture. The original siding is there, in poor condition and someone slapped hideous vinyl siding over styrofoam a couple years ago. It feels and looks like an old fashioned waterproof plastic diaper and it is bug heaven underneath. Tar paper wrap. I cannot wait to carefully remove everything to inspect the walls and studs for water damage before wrapping it all up, and replacing the awful original windows that were never even flashed I think. I have a concrete foundation, thank goodness. Doing it all myself, with the help of great video instruction like this.
Hello Shari, glad my video can help. It really is a pretty easy job with the clamps. Good luck on your project!
I would advise you to rethink before installing siding yourself especially if you've never done it before. There is not one single video on youtube that shows you how to install it correctly including this guy's. Theyre all hacks. There are already numerous mistakes and this is just one wall. To do it right is more involved than most people think. And if installed incorrectly it will create mold, rot and cause damage to your framing all of which are costly to fix and will compound quickly in an are with a lot of moisture. If you still decide to do it yourself I would recommend you use the best materials available like for housewrap use Hydrogap drainable wrap and for caulking use Quad Max it stays flexible and wont crack and let water in like the cheap stuff. between the trim and the window leave about a 1/4"-3/8" gap and stuff foam backer rod 3/8" deep and fill with caulking. Dont butt the trim up to the window frame like this guy did, it leaves barely any room for caulking. This is really important step because vinyl windows expand and contract and it you have a tiny bead of cheap caulk it will crack and let water in and deteriorate everything a lot faster. VS a 3/8x3/8" bead of high quality caulk which will easily be able to expand and contract providing years of trouble free service. Also preprime and precaulk the cuts on the trim where they butt up to each other. These steps are critical in achieving a solid installation that will last many years trouble free. Flashing above horizontal protrusions like window trim and such is also crucial. If you have any questions please feel free to ask Ive worked many years for siding company in Oregon that doesnt take shortcuts like most people.
Also dont use housewrap at the joints like he did. It is not UV rated for very long and will deteriorate eventually. Instead use 5x7 metal flashing you can pick up a pack of 100 for like 25 bucks at a siding supplier. Caulking the joints is optional but not recommended. instead install with moderate contact or leave 1/16" gap
I also own a home like this. Original siding is cedar, with the tar wrap. Really would like to redo it. Love the look, but it is in bad shape.
@@senyashchukin391 I didn't read your whole post but I agree. This guy had no business posting this video. Siding is a trade that takes years to learn, it's an art, not to mention its THEE waterproofing for your house. So "No" you can't "Do It Yourself" and its not cheap. But go ahead, roll the dice, and see if you can keep your house 100% waterproof for the next 30 years. One wrong move could cost you 10,20,$40,000 down the road or more....just pay somebody...
Very helpful video. I'm going to be redoing my 100 year old clapboard sided building with Hardie siding. This gives me some great ideas. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow fancy level action. Caught it
Awesome work! It looks easier than I thought.
Thanks, and yes...it is pretty easy!
Nice job. You made it look easy. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment...appreciate it!
How has it held up since you installed it, especially the bottom rows? Any cracked paint lines effect at the bottom side of the panels due to moisture absorption? 6 years ago I bought an old house with hip style roof with 2.5 ft overhangs. House had beaded cedar mill look Masonite siding that was face nailed and to many of my contractor's surprise it was still in pretty good shape, despite years of neglect. I couldn't find a matching siding so after remodeling I decided to replace it. When I took off the old siding, I was shocked to see that the only damage was on the bottom front of the first two rows and top rows were as as stiff and clean as brand new. And I really loved the cedar mill look. So now I want to install something similar and LP smart siding is the closest as far as the look goes. But I feel hesitant to use it after reading up all the negative feedback about it. Part of me says if Masonite siding could last on this house, LP siding should be just fine too. However my old siding had a smooth curved shape at the bottom, unlike the LP smart siding's rough shape, which makes me think that it may be more likely to absorb water and hence prone to a quicker failure, if I don't get a good paint coverage fast enough. I suppose those oversized overhangs on the house can only protect it so much. Oddly enough fiber cement siding is about the same price right now but my walls are anything but true or flat, so if needed, the face nailing may be out of question for fiber cement. So I'm looking for some honest feedback and recommendations from homeowner who have installed LP siding.
My LP siding has held up very well. I think any bad reviews you read about LP is from the stuff they made many years ago. The new stuff they make today seems to hold up great! Good luck with your decision!
good clear video. I've done close to a dozen structures now with Hardie (or other) siding. (I have a ranch with lots of cabins) One comment I'd make is that using siding nails on the trim is not ideal. Using them on the trim is unsightly and has to be caulked or something to make it look ok. Try instead to find stainless brad nails, like 2" long that you can use in your brad nail gun. I have a 16 Gauge nail gun, and no problem finding them, but they do make 18 gauge too if that is all you have. I've done this for maybe 5 years or more now and the trim is ON there. You can use extra nails as there is no visible problem. I've pried them off from time to time and for sure they hold well enough to never worry about the trim just "slowly loosening and coming off". By using the brad nails, no need for filling. The hole is small enough that the paint afterwards fills the hold and it becomes "invisible". I try to always use stainless siding nails anyway, (the siding IS constructed with cement and that is quite hard on regular nails, so that rust will show. Stainless keeps that Rust from happening.)
Hey, thanks for sharing that advice. Hopefully everyone will read it that are trying to learn how to side thier house!
Nice work. Love the multi use tool you have... the saw horse/wheelbarrow combo kit... nice!
Ha, thanks!...got to use what you have!!
Awesome video brother thank you for the lesson and the sharing of the word 🤙🏽🌸
Thanks Chad!! This is great, I plan on buying a house and am learning to do these things by myself.
Thanks for sharing. Those clamps are a life saver.
The clamps a re for sure the way to go...even if you have help on your siding project!
amazing. looks great. it was so easy.
Thanks!
Man I wish I had a Menards in our hood. Good call on painting the cut edges! Textbook LP installation!!👍👍
Yeah, Menards is my go to over Home Depot and Lowes. And yes, always a good idea to paint the cut edges. It slows the process down a little, but well worth it!
Menards is great
True craftsmanship standards Always prime/paint all 6 sides before reinstalling.
@@chaddiy3512 what does the paint do to the cut edges, help with moisture resistant?
The top piece wasn't shown. Did you put a vinyl finishing piece to cover up the last set of nails?
Hello, no I just caulked over the nails and then painted everything. You would have to look really close to tell where the nails are at, and it is kind of hidden under the overhangs as well.
Nice video made it look so easy and professional
Glad you liked it!
Great job! Why didn't U put battens in for ventilation drainage between the wall and the panels??
Hello, I just followed how the manufacturer suggested to do it on new construction. Added the battens could help with drainage forsure if any water gets behind the siding.
Thanks! Straight forward for my review. :) Love the clamps. was not on my radar.
Thanks for the comment Barry, and glad the clamps are on your radar now...They make all the difference!
Where I live, you must strap behind the siding unless it's vinyl. Installing
LP Smart Siding without strapping voids the warranty.
Looks great - outstanding job.
Thank you very much!
real professional, I like the way you Mark the studs I thought I was the only one that did that, good video.
Thanks Greg, to me...marking the studs is a must so you don't have to nail blindly. Thanks for watching!
Lol the only one huh
Best video on UA-cam dude 👍
Thanks, I appreciate it!
You make this look so easy! 😲 very helpful and much appreciated!
Glad I could help!
Very nice. Love the clamps. Where can I buy them? Thx for your video
amazon
Where’s the Z channel flashing above the window or around the electrical box? No laser/chalk line or level on the first row?
This video is probably the best "how to siding" video Ive come across. Wish you had made a soffit and fascia video!!!
Thanks Nathan, I appreciate that!
What do you think of using the dewalt cordless roofing nailer with the siding attachment? I have a job coming up and I’m debating getting it so I don’t have to deal with a compressor and what not.
Hello, I believe the dewalt attachment is for vinyl siding only, so if that is what you are doing it should work. The siding in this video is LP Smartside, so you would want a dedicated siding nailer for that...good luck!
So when the foundation comes out further than the green plate is it standard to just side to the osb? Because I thought usually the siding should go past the green plate/ treated base of your exterior walls.
Hello, I guess I'm not sure what you would do with that. I have only worked with concrete slab foundation, so the green pressure treated bottom board goes right to the very edge of the slab.
Great work thanks i seen sole comment people hating thats what people do, and i bet they dont have a single video of themselves doing it.
Thanks Ricardo! yeah, there is always a lot of hate on youtube...very true about the haters never having any videos of their own!
Would it be easier to paint the planks first? That way it could be done in a controlled environment and not dependent on weather conditions outdoors?
Thank you for the video!
Yep, it would be easier! If I did it again I would just have bought the prepainted stuff and not have to paint myself at all!
NICE WORK, SIR... AND THANKS FOR THE HOW TO DO KNOWLEDGE!💯💪💪
Glad I could help!
What a great job what type of siding nailer did you use can you please let me know and the nails thank you.
Thanks! and here is the affiliate link for the nailer I used amzn.to/2H8GeiI
Also, I believe I used 2 inch nails from the same brand as the nailer.
You made that look sooo easy!!!
Where is the flashing on the bottom of your siding?
I’ve read that we’re not supposed tape the bottom of the window for water to have a place to escape should water infiltrate?
Hi Josh, That might be true. I just did it the way I saw a few others do it on youtube...You should do it however you think best!
very nice job
Great video. I am going to be replacing cedar bevel siding. How should I handle the butt joints?
Hello, I'm not sure how you do butt joints with cedar. I don't think you caulk them...maybe just a flashing material behind each joint.
You only nail the top part of the siding? What keeps the bottom from lifting up like with the wind ? I'm because I want to do this to my mobile home. Thank you
Hello Sergio, you only need to nail the top. The boards are very stiff so the wind will not lift them. Good luck!
Is this fiber cement siding or masonite siding? If is fiber cement siding did you have to use special nails for the nail gun?
It is LP Smartside which is a wood based product, no special tools to work with it and it holds up great!
Beautiful work
Thanks!
Convinced I could do this as a 19 year old girl
🤌🏾🤌🏾🤌🏾🤌🏾🤌🏾
Go for it!
Looks real nice
Can you use a floor or pallets with this? I'm thinking I'll use it to store moving boxes and furniture.
good use of roofing nailer....2 3/8 in nails better for siding. framing nailer with adjustment so head flushes to wood surface
I thought I was seeing things. He said "siding" nailer. But don't mistake my comment, I've done that. I just thought he actually had one. 😅😅😅
What guage /depth nailer/nails are you using/prefer to use
Hello, I use a Bostitch nailer with 2-1/2-Inch x .090 nails. That set up works great!
Thanks I got those clamps for my brother they work great
The clamps really do make it so much easier!
What's the name of the clamp?
Great video. Why didn't you use the specific metal spacers for the butt joints? Also, I believe your not supposed to finger the OSI caulking after applying.
Thanks! I didn't use the spaces, because I didn't get pre painted siding, so as long as I was going to paint everything, it was easier to paint caulk than the spacers. You might be right on applying the caulk. I just did what I thought looked the best.
What is the name of that material which you are using exterior of the house 🏠.
It is called LP Smartside
@@chaddiy3512 it's make from plastic or other materials
Looks just like my detached garage which flooded last year. How do you prevent water from coming in? Shouldn't there be some flashing before you put on the starter piece?
Hello Jack, I didn't use any flashing because I was building off a concrete slab so it doesn't matter if it got wet. If you are getting any flooding it sounds like it might be a grading problem with the ground around your garage.
do you ever use spray foam behind the backing to further insulate the wall?
Hello, I wouldn't use spray foam, but many people do install foam sheets before they put the siding up.
Really good details!!
Thanks!
My only question is where did you get those clamps at I'm always making jigs and having to have some one help on each end love the do it your self clamp
Hello, you can get the clamps on Amazon. They are called Gecko clamps. Thanks for the comment!
Absolute Master
What Is the clamp thing called 🤔. Great video!
Thanks for the comment. The clamps I used are called gecko clamps. The link should be in the description.
what happens with the foam on the foundation? what i'm asking is why is it sticking out past the face of the siding?
The foam gets covered with metal flashing. And yes, it does stick out further then the siding
Hello Chad, nice video. Will those clamps work with 105 drop siding? Also, did you make a video on the insulation installation?
Hello, I'm not sure what 105 drop siding is. I just have house wrap on the outside and did fiberglass batts on the inside between the studs for insulation
No flashing on the bottom?? Or furring in between?
Amazing One Man Job,,Well Done....
Thanks a lot!
No frieze board ?
Yeah thats what im here to see
No link to those nifty clamps?
Wow such wonderful job easy not complicated I love thank u for such great work
Thanks for watching!
Great video, what size siding were you using and what over lap or reveal did you use?
Thanks! I believe I used 7 inch siding with an 1 1/2 inch over lap. I think the instructions said it had to be a minimum of 1 inch overlap...but make sure to check the instructions before you install.
why is there not a metal flashing under the Starting Strip ???
For sure. Need to cap that foundation.
@@johnd9541 --you mean what I call a (Metal termite barrier)--- If is a poured concrete base -No need in the townships code !
code is minimum standard. You want to divert water away from the sill area which could wick back into the framing members/sill plate.
After I did this, I saw a heated slab house like mine that had metal flashing that started on the OSB and then wrapped around the 2" pink foam. I should have done that! I am not too worried now though, the siding sticks out far enough so really water wicking back shouldn't be much of an issue, and if it does...The sill 2 by 6's are all pressure treated...time will tell though!
@@chaddiy3512 you could try some non-expanding foam, then paint it.
ok, so maybe the Typar is not "flat" but what about a proper air gap or rain screen for moisture?
Hello Emaley, I think the air gap all depends on what type of siding you are using. I used L.P. smartside and this is the standard way it is installed in my area. I know some types of siding require the air gap material installed first. It really can vary though!
Are you not installing j channels on windows or the edges of the house?
Hello, there is no j channel with this LP Smartside siding.
Hello what size nails did you use for the air gun? And where did you get the clamp guide
What size nail / nail gun did you use for this? 16g? 1 1/4”?
I think I used .113, 2 inch nails with a standard siding nail gun.
Good job !!! The clamps make it nice !
Thanks Dean...the clamps are the way to go!
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
This is smart siding , on James hardie you don’t have to caulk the seams, so I’m guessing you do on smart siding?
This is Smart siding
I didn't have a nail gun to install my cement siding, so I resorted to hand nailing. This didn't work very well. I decided about half way thru the job to predrill nail hole. The bits wore out endlessly because of the abrasiveness of the siding. So whilst drilling, I accidently snapped off yet another drill bit tip. Lo and behold, It worked better broken. So then I went and bot a 24 pack of 1/8 in bits and nipped the tips off all of them. It worked so well that I had no problems predrilling nail holes. Who'd have thot a broken drill bit works better than a sharp one for predrilling holes in concrete siding. Likewise I've found it easier to score and snap the siding instead of fighting with a skill saw.
Thanks for the comment and the tips Terry. All the issues you ran into are the reason I used LP Smartside instead of cement board. The LP cuts just like wood. They both look great once installed though!
That's what I do. Goes faster if you stack 3 boards to drill
what color is that paint at the end?
Hi Jim, it is called Bachelor Pad Gray
@@chaddiy3512 thanks. I have a plan for summer now.
Good luck!
Can all seams match or should you use different sizes of siding to not have the seams match? Im siding 1 side of my home where i could use 12' pieces of siding.
Hello David, you will want to stagger the seems when you install the siding. Just cut some of the siding to different lengths to get the random seem pattern. Good luck!
Can you tell me please.where we find all material for the sailing
You can get everything from Menards.
Someone just did my siding but they put the nails on the bottom too. Is that bad? It doesn't look nice like yours because your nails are hidden by the next layer of siding. Did they do it wrong?
I would say they did it wrong. I have never seen this type of siding done that way, but maybe a pro could chime in as well.
What type of sidings that ? And how much does it cost where dod you buy it from ?
Hello, it is LP Smartside that I got at Menards. You would have to check their website for pricing.
Im building a 12 X 16...So far Ive only done the framing & it feels wobbly..Is that normal??
That is normal, once you get the plywood or osb on it...it will not wobbly anymore. Good luck!
@@chaddiy3512 Thank you--HUGE relief!!! 🙏🏽
Nice work Chad. A link to purchase those nice clamps would be helpful. You sure made that siding job look easy.
Thanks! Here is a link to the clamps I used! amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)
Been there, done that a few times. Had help buy let him go, spent too much time on his cell phone, in the bath room and late to work. I bought a pair of those clamps, I call them Kenny.
Love the story! And good idea naming them Kenny!
Lol was that the name of the helper too that u let go
That's what I was wondering as well!
I've done this before on a 16x20 addition of a screened in porch converted to room. Not a bad job
Upload a video
Just in the middle of doing this exact job myself
I would seriously think about Z flashing and flashing tape over the outlet cover trip. I know its a protected circuit but its a real pain if the GFCI trips everytime it rains. I know becuse ive got one that does this. Granted its not as fancy a box
And your vapor cover blocks water intrusion but its cheap insurance. Well worth the effort. You also should have done the window. The main reason for wood rot is poor flashing its worth the effort to add the extra protections.
It dosnt take much water to start the rotting process becuse wood behind a outside surface wont dry out as fast then if it wasn't covered up so its best to keep the water away as best as possible.
COOL where did u buy those clamps
Hi David, I got the gecko siding clamps on Amazon
Hello thank I like the work u did
Hi one more question what size were those planks .LxWxH
What are the spacer hanging clamps you used, and what do they set the overlap at?
Kind of important to know to figure coverage. If you overlap 1/2" or over lap 3/4" you could land 1 sheet short
But also if you do a story stick you could space the laps to land full lap on the last top lap or close enough a trim board covers the gap at the top.
Do the hanging clamps adjust?
They are called gecko clamps, they are completely adjustable to leave any size overlap you want. They really work great!
@@chaddiy3512
Yes I looked at them, but id still do a story stick so I know where my laps tops land on a wall so I don't have to cut out for a window and land on it without adjustment or trimming one of them.
Thats what they showed on this old house.
I like the trim part you put on the outlet box but look above I made a point about flashing.
My house is over 25 years old you really can tell when flashing wasnt done right or poor techniques were used when it was built. Its smart to look at things and why they failed then get at idea how to make them better with just a little extra work.
My house has the Abit siding on it.
The remedy by the manufacture was to paint it. Trust me ive seen houses by me that got plenty of paint on them and still look like crap. It was a piss poor product. Basically cardboard sheets.
Paints only as good as the substrate under it. Back when my house was built they didn't use Typar and the sheting is OSB. Ive got plenty of water damaged wood. Ive seen it on sevral houses.
I dont even like treated wood for trim work. The PVC holds up a lot better.
It just cost more. But that also depends on what profile you use 2x or 1x
Thanks that is a pretty cool tool ill have to buy a pair when I replace my lap siding.
You think somone would come out with a system for sheet goods that works just as good. Around here they started to lap the sheet goods insted of using z flashing between sheets with a trim board over them it looks a lot nicer.
I say this becuse my house is 2 story with walk out basment so ive got areas 3 and 4 sheets up 10x4 or 9x4
Do you only need put nails on the top of the siding?
Yep, that's all it needs!
Chad my friend is replacing some siding on one side of her house but on a 14 ft height to 25 ft lengths a few pieces to replace. Do you have to start from the bottom up or can we go from top to bottom. We are only replacing what's needed. Please advise.
Hello, you can just replace the bad boards. They can be a little tricky to get the old ones out. I have done it with a crowbar lifting up the bad board and then use a sawsall to cut the nails hold the siding in place. Good luck!
Why use a nail gun? Did you keep space between head of the nail side of the house???
I used the nail gun because it is so fast. Not sure what you mean by space between head of nail.
Why did you start with 1 1/2 ? And not a full board ?
That is a starter strip so the next board will be at in angle like the rest of them. Without that, the first board will be flat against the wall and the rest of the boards going up will be at angles as they over lap each other.
Hi, we need to repair few boards in the middle, can it be done instead of replacing every each row?
It sure can! You just need to pry up the bad boards from the bottom. Then use a sawzall with long metal blade to cut the nails holding the bad board. Then insert new board and face nail it. I have done it before, and it isn't too hard. Good luck!
Chad DIY. What size nailer are you using?
I am just using a siding nailer with 2 1/2 nails
Awesome work 🤩
Thanks!
Where did you find coil nails and nailer that shoot the recommended .113 nails? Im having trouble locating a coil nailer that shoots that large, and the nails to go with it. Thanks!
Hello Aj, I just used a regular siding nailer and .090 nails. Had no problems with that size nail holding well. To do the .113 nails I think you would have to use a framing nailer. Good luck on your siding!
Can you use that nail gun for vinyl siding?
Hello, I don't think it would work for that. Vinyl is too thin, so I think the nails would just go right through it.
@@chaddiy3512 appreciate it