How to Replace Timing Belt & Cam Seals: Toyota Sienna 1997-2002
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- Опубліковано 27 тра 2021
- How to replace the cam seals and timing belt on a Toyota Sienna 2000. This video will show you step-by-step how to replace the cam seals and timing belt on a 2000 Toyota Sienna with the 1MZFE engine. I used an OEM timing belt kit made by Aisin and purchased on Amazon and genuine Toyota seals purchased from the Toyota dealership.
It will be helpful to show you which mistakes to avoid as you install the new seals and re-use the existing timing belt tensioner. Learn from the mistakes of others!
These are other videos that are helpful on this job:
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How to replace the power steering belt: • How to Replace Power S...
How to replace the serpentine belt: • How to Replace a Serpe...
This is the kit I used: AISIN TKT-024 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
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Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of Pen-Pusher, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. This video and all opinions are truthfully my own.
Pen-Pusher assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk.
Pen-Pusher recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Pen-Pusher, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Pen-Pusher. - Авто та транспорт
love it.
Excellent video!! Very clear and easy to follow. Well done.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Top notch video. Very helpful. Will be doing mine in a few weeks.
Glad you can learn from my mistakes!
Excellent video my friend, thanks for moving slowly and explaining how to do the cam seals. I have had the parts for some time and am confident after watching you and The Car Care Nut that I can do this. Thanks
You've got it! Slow and steady wins the race. :)
Great info! I was able to do my own '02 Sienna. Thank you!
You're welcome! :)
Thank You for posting a great video. I wish more people would stick to the job like you did. Thank you for showing us an affordable cam seal tool option also. Wishing you many more trouble free miles with your vehicles.
Thanks. Wishing you the same!
That cam seal too is awesome. While you are screwing it in to drive the seal...will the cam turn internally?
@@NextLevelAutoDiagnostics No, it doesn't. :)
@@Pen_Pusher TY
@@NextLevelAutoDiagnostics You're welcome!
Great tutorial video. Well-spoken mechanic for a change.
Thanks BG!
Nice video! I like the relaxed pace and extra time on the tough spots. I have two of these in the pipeline: '00 Sienna and '04 ES330.
Take your time and enjoy the process! :)
Thank you for sharing many helpful tips! I will be doing it on 1MZ-FE when the weather gets cooler. Great tips: using piece of the old belt to line it up for locking chain pliers, PVC tube to push in the new seal, marking the positions with visible paint, etc.
You're welcome! I hope it will be smooth sailing for you!
Great job and well done. Thank you very helpful.
Thanks a lot. Glad I could help! :)
Excellent job 👍
Thanks for the encouragement Narinder!
Like a pro ..great video 👉 🥇
Thanks ✌
Napa sells a tool to hold pulleys for around $20.00. It will work on the cam pulleys. Its made by evercraft.
Thanks David. Such a tool is quite useful!
Thanks Again P-P.
Great job. Thanks. 😍
Thank you !
You're welcome!
I have same car.... good job
Yes, these keep on going forever it seems!
What an excellent idea to use a paint can opener. Would be better if I could get you to do mine, but I could not afford to pay your round trip airfare. 😁 Say what? why dielectric grease? There is nothing electrical about it. I've always used oil and spin is a little to get the lips on the seal facing the right direction. Excellent seal press. Great idea. 😁
Hi John, I guess you can use different lubricants. I was told to use dielectric because it doesn't affect the seals. It is safe for rubber products.
Would love to see how you got the seal out with minimal problems. Had the same can opener but it just bent or pried the inner edge of the seal outward.
Sorry to hear about that. There seems to be some luck involved!
Used a slide hammer hooked behind a piece of drilled alloy at damper pulley
Nice. Thanks for sharing!
Great video! It's gonna help me when time comes for replacing the timing belt. Could you share the size of the chain locking gripper you used(or is needed)?
It is the size of a vice grip. :)
Tip here: If you don't have a vice you can compress the tensioner slowly using a bottle jack (carefully and slowly) against the jacking frame of the car. It will press it back in just like a vice.
Thanks Stellar. That should work well! :)
I have a 98 toyota sienna with 327,000 miles maintanance is certainly overdue. With timing belt water pump replacement cam seals etc...should i expect to get another 300.000 miles more out of ny 98 toyota sienna with of course the oil changes done along the way.
This is the 2nd video I am watching. I have a few more questions. What size of extension bar should I get to remove the nut on the harmonic balancer? Harbor freight has a set of socket extension with 9-1/4" and 4-1/4" length. Would it be long enough for this? Also did you have any screw that was rusted and head got broken off when you unscrewed with your socket wrench? I will not know what to do if I am screwed. So I am still holding off the project.
All you need to get the harmonic balancer bolt out is an impact wrench (I used an electric one). Same thing when replacing it - I just hand tightened it, then two or three short braps of the impact wrench and it’s just fine. Just make sure to replace the harmonic balancer bolt with a new one from Toyota, because bolts stretch when tightening and can more easily break off the second time around. If you take off the timing pulleys, replace those two bolts as well. If you need the Toyota part numbers for all the bolts, let me know and I’ll give them to you.
@@wolfmanradio Thanks for your reply. I used the starter bump method to get the harmonic balancer bolt off, meaning I put the breaker bar on the ground and crank without starting. I do not have an impact wrench, just a regular rachet wrench and a breaker bar. I did not replace the bolt. I thought about replacing the cam seals but held off because I don't have proper tools. I managed to replace the timing belt with timing marks aligned. This was the main thing, others are minors and have not cause me any problem yet.
you have many videos about 2000 sienna,it is great for me,but I can not find fix wobbly side mirror video
Sorry, I haven't had that problem yet. :)
How do you re adjust the sprockets if they have moved and not aligned?
If they have moved slightly you can just bring them back into alignment.
Please help I took my time cover off my 1mzfe 3.0 (1st edition WITHOUT VVT) because I have a crank no start after stalling while driving and I already checked getting spark with screwdriver trick also did carb cleaner trick spraying in air intake while cranking and nothing but some backfire so don't think it's fuel but looking at the cam pulleys when I put front one at Tdc the back cam pulley is at 9 O'clock and the belt is definitely severely warn but still intact IDK what position the crank pulley is in but aren't the cam pulleys always supposed to be at Tdc together and would or could this happen while driving and would it cause the car to stall then crank with a no start or would the car still run but run like crap and I'm missing something else that is causing the no start
Sounds like your timing belt is shot. :(
@@Pen_Pusher thanks for responding.. so the belt is intact but I can pull threads off the belt and it's the inside material left there's barely any rubber on it anymore lol it's actually the original belt with 440,000 thousand miles no lie but if I rotate the engine by hand and get the crankshaft pulley mark lined up to 0 mark on the timing cover the cam pulley's mark closest to the firewall is at 6-7 o'clock and the other Cam's mark is around 10-11 o'clock and that's in reference to TDC being 12 o'clock.. IMO from a lot of research you seem to be the best and most knowledgeable about this 1mz-fe engine & I have the one before VVT-I was added so I would love to ask a few questions that aren't in your videos I watched them all on this car 100s of X's
* So engine is definitely out of timing to where it won't start lol?
* There's debate if it's a non interference engine should I be worried of internal damage?
* What does the 15 10 5 0 marks on timing cover and v mark on crankshaft pulley really mean if timing marks are behind the cover and on the crank sprocket when you remove the pulley?
* The only things that stop this engine from starting are crank & cam sensors, spark, fuel, air & timing? Or is there something else not so obvious that it could be?
* Recap* it was driving and while stopping to turn it stalled and never started again and IDK if this means anything but another mentioned it while cranking my rpm needle barely moved if at all and when cranking it it wasn't a fast strong crank like your car after finishing the timing belt job mine cranked like half that speed/power with a freshly charged battery and a jumper on it.
I do apologize for picking your brain as I'm not a professional just someone who grew up around fixing cars and tries to teach myself through what I can find online as well as trial and error but a 1,000% truly appreciate it you have the time to respond and thank you in advance for any ideas/advice given
Hi I woner, both of came seal size are same? or little different?
They are the same size. :)
i mean how much money charge for that job?
Nice video, but those cam sprockets should be the same torque, because it’s exactly the same.
And that die electric grease on the cam seals, seems like it could make it spin. What about the water pump ? Might as well change it since you’re in there.
And I would put a new tension actuator, if it fails that timing belt will go.
Yes, it is a good idea to change the water pump while you are in there. I did that, and can be seen on another video. :)
Wow...your van has no oil leaks !
Probably thanks to valve cover gaskets and brake clean.
How long was this overall process?
Hi Timothy, as a home mechanic I suggest you put aside two days for a job like this. :)
What size chain grip did you use
The vice grip is 10" and the chain 20". 😊
how do you know if you need Cam Seals replaced? lots of miles or is there evidence of a leak?
Hi Jim, I just do it when I go in there anyway to change the timing belt. Call it preventative maintenance. :)
how many miles did it have before the timing belt was replaced?
120,000. I do mine every 60,000. :)
Thanks for your good instructions but missing one important point can be costly. @04:13 you did not show the tip that you have to put on the rod that goes in the middle of the crankshaft. I have access to some tools. So I grabbed what you showed and tried to pull the pully. Well it damaged the threads inside of the crankshaft and it's going to cost an arm and a leg to fix it. wish I had watched other videos too because they do warn you about that! also why didn't you use the start car trick to open the crankshaft nut. it only take 5 minutes to do and so effortless.
Hi Paul, what kind of tool did you use to pull the harmonic balancer?
What engine is this 1mzfe?
Yes, it is. It is very similar to the 3mzfe. :)
how much money chage for that job?
Hi Jorge, it will depend on your city and state, but I would think a few hundred. :)
Your timing belt installed in reverse direction. The arrow should be face to machine.
Belt is correct, that is why the markings line up with the sprockets. :)
Face to machine? hmm.
The arrows should be facing the front. Away from engine toward the fender or radiator; outward.
Is this not how it was installed? hmm..
Great video, but on your video to replace water pump & timing belt you did not show or report that the timing cover back plate has to be removed to remove the water pump …
Sorry Owen, that definitely needs to be done! :)
Edit the video so folks don’t get to remove the timing belt before loosening the cam sprockets …
@@owainstevens1097 I will look into that. :)
@@owainstevens1097 I actually do remove the timing belt before I remove the cam sprockets. :)
@@Pen_Pusher well it’s much easier with the belt on, you don’t have to grip the sprockets with grips & old timing belt .
The correct way is to loosen before belt is removed….
You must have a fairly new water pump or i would've replaced it also..mechanics here charge from $700 - $1,200 to do this job
Good thinking! Yes, I did the water pump and timing belt as well. Unfortunately I messed up on the seal installation on one camshaft, so I had to redo it.
Here is the vid with water pump: ua-cam.com/video/Fh-kNcsmZwE/v-deo.html
@@Pen_Pusher Oh man that must've been a bummer,didn't seat right?
@@roltyd22 Yes, as I explained in the beginning of this video, I hammered it in instead of pressing it in. It seemed to go in fine, but curled up and then leaked. So, got to do it twice. :)
Wait, What? you had to do it all over again??? Oh, that would be terrible but necessary. 😲
This is the life of a weekend warrior. You don't get to learn on customers' cars!
@@Pen_Pusher 😂
Now you will have to go in there a 3rd time to do the front main seal which you DIDN'T replace and you were right there🙄
Haha you're right! :)
@@Pen_PusherI like your video, as usual. I was going to ask what size PVC pipe and length you made for the crank seal replacement, but it looks like you didn't do it.
@@1usArmySniper If you do the crank seal you can let me know what size pipe to use, thanks. I will probably have to do it in future if it develops a leak. :)
@@Pen_Pusher The crank seal is 2 - 6\32" wide. The width 1\4" hard outer edge. And a 2\32 soft inner edge.
The 1.5 inch pvc pipe is just a little too small and 2" is too big; for this crank seal because it will hit the inner soft edge while you should stay on the hard 1\4" outer edge.
I have a 35 and 36mm axle socket that fit it perfectly and I switch to final tapping with a 3 inch 3\8th extension 'very light taps' until seated all the way.
Make sure the seal inner edge doesn't fold over on itself and just work it slow, first apply assembly lube or petroleum jelly.
@@DevJB Thanks for the sizing Dev!