If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases. amzn.to/41ij80e Ratchet wrench set: amzn.to/46JP0g5 😎👍 1. How to replace Timing Belt - (PART 2) ua-cam.com/video/AiPMyNv2GEg/v-deo.html 2. Engine died/stalled on highway - Common causes ua-cam.com/video/RgFlkqvhnkU/v-deo.htmlsi=2eNJYMN3CQ0IL4Sn 3. Replace Toyota Camry battery ua-cam.com/video/rHNmGztyIOI/v-deo.html 4. Replace Toyota Camry headlight ua-cam.com/video/l2oaAof3oyI/v-deo.html 5. Replace Toyota Camry shift cable ua-cam.com/video/dP8Zjbc3SbE/v-deo.html
I just replaced my water pump and timing belt for my 2001 Camry. I followed your video and so impressed how it turned out. You have detailed instructions and made it easy. My fav quotes “do not cross thread “ and “don’t rush it”. Thanks
Thanks for watching, and that is very kind of you to say. And yes, cross-threading bolts and rushing is a no-go on our channel. 😁 Awesome job making it a DIY project, you deserve that earned rewarding feeling. Great to hear it turned out well. Looking forward to 2024, many more helpful videos to come. 🧰
Thank you so much for this video. By far the best instructional video on this topic - everything from the narration, to steady and clear filming, and tips were really appreciated. This video was my main guide and reference for the entire job - and I now have a fantastic running car! It took me about a week and a few days more to do the job after parts arrived...and there were times when I was almost about to call a mechanic, but in the end everything worked out well, so I'm really glad I stuck to it (I learned heaps as well)! For the harmonic balancer removal, I had to order in a really heavy duty harmonic balancer socket to break free the bolt (with heat and penetrating oil). For the timing belt installation, mine was 1 tooth off and/or incorrect timing as the crankshaft pulley moved while putting the belt on (and I didn't discover it till later). So I ended up mainly using the markings on the oil pulley to set the timing (the pulley behind the harmonic balancer; there's a small notch at about the 11.30-12 o'clock at the back teeth which lines up to a small indent on the housing behind). This was easier than using the marking on the lower timing belt cover as I could insert the crankshaft bolt and spin it and align (if I knocked the pulley out of TDC) instead of putting the cover, the harmonic balancer, and then bolt back in and checking. So that solved the problem of being at TDC before/after installing belt as I could easily verify it before putting everything back on. To solve the problem of being off by a tooth (and thus when moving 2 rotations, everything is out of order), I just had to make sure all the tension was on the side opposite to the tensioner pulley (i.e. the belt between the camshaft sprocket and water pump was tighter than the side between the camshaft and oil pump and crankshaft sprocket...because when the tensioner pulley bolt was loosened, that side would become tight as well). If the belt isn't broken, it's good to make matchstick markings on the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket to make sure the belt isn't off by a tooth (and also verifying by spinning 720deg / 2 revs). In the end, got it on, but the crankshaft pulley was a few degrees off TDC however camshaft was spot on. That was the best I could manage. I ended up doing camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, oil pump seal, oil pump o-ring while there. The best way for doing the seals was using a screw driver approaching from the bore and prying it out that way. A small hook tool was also useful to fish out the seal after making an indent. To put the seal back in: for camshaft seal, press the old seal onto the new seal after pushing it in (making sure the lip hasn't come up - broke my genuine Toyota seal that way, had to use an aftermarket one to avoid waiting), reverse the camshaft sprocket and with the bolt, slowly screw in. For crankshaft seal: put it carefully in first with slight rotation. I used a pvc pipe at this point to edge it in. Then I finished it with a 3/8" extension and small mallet. For oil pump seal: first remove the oil pump (7 bolts), then lock it in a vice grip and remove. Changed the spark plugs while I was at it as well. Went to turn it on and...nothing. Would crank but wouldn't start. Verified it wasn't the battery (charged up previously + used a powerbank jump starter). Checked my connections (only a few for this car). Pretty sure it wasn't the timing as I had verified it many many times with the cover off. Had to use Chrisfix's car won't start video to figure it out (fuel, air, spark, etc). What worked was twisting the key to ON for 10 seconds to let the oil pressurise, and then start the car. Car finally was able to weakly start after two days and after that no problem. I think because parts took 1.5 months to arrive, all the fuel and oil stuff had drained so it was hard to start by just cranking immediately. Finished everything off with another video from you: hard/sticky gas pedal. Cleaned the throttle body (plus wiped the throttle cable with denatured alcohol)...and everything is running so smoothly now. So... Big thanks! Have subscribed and relaxing after everything done by watching your latest vid on how to cook up a quarter cow. Now that's some darn good topic coverage there!
I legit used your link because I want you to get a piece of the affiliate link money. This was extremely helpful. I am now just knowledgeable enough to be dangerous. Lol. (Enough to try this, such a waste to junk the car when all it needs is a timing belt)
@@adamfrbs9259 We appreciate you watching and writing us. We feel the same, it would be a waste of a good car. Replacing the timing belt and getting the car back on the road is the smartest route to take! 😁👍🧰
@DIYwithMichaelBorders this is the big weekend for the swap. We'll see how I do, most technical thing I've ever done is swap a gas tank on an old Ford van, had to get that stupid Ford fuel line tool for that one.
@DIYwithMichaelBorders dang, did it all, wanted to fire the first second, like a carbed car that wouldn't fire up. Then nothing, no almost fire or anything, just turned over n over. When you turned it around from the harmonic balancer with the wrench, were you holding it back from the compression making it want to jump forward as you turned it? That's what it kept doing to me, jumped forward, then the belt would lose some tension until I turned it some more. It seemed odd for the belt to lose as much tension as it did at those points when it would jump forward. That make sense? Is that normal?
@@adamfrbs9259 Thanks for the follow up. There’s a minor amount of room for error however not much at all. If we read this correctly, you are all finished and back up and running, correct?
Friendly tip. You need to make sure the timing belt is tight on the right side or the crank sprocket will move before the cam sprocket as shown in your video causing an out of time condition.
Excellent video brother and the camera angles are awesome, Quick question if I need to adjust the belt due to having a little slack do I need to align everything dead center or can I just adjust it by the tensioner pulley? Thanks
Thanks for watching. It may require 3-4 hours at the absolute max. The shop will have all the tools and parts handy to complete it rather quickly. Shop times and expertise may vary of course. 👍
question regarding your warnings (13:45): I did spin the crankshaft counter-clockwise a turn or two by mistake when trying to align it to the dead zero notch (with the timing belt still on, and before I watched your video). I am still in the process of changing the timing belt, water pump, and oil pump. What can go wrong once I put everything back together? Thanks.
@@mrvaltinho Thanks for watching, how is your project going? There is a little bit of play in regards to the engine tolerances if turned counterclockwise however not much at all. In other words, you will never want to turn engine counterclockwise during the alignment. Keep us posted. ☕️🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks for the reply. I ran into a problem where I installed a new oil pump only to realize that the socket for the crankshaft sensor was missing. So I ordered another oil pump and I am still waiting for the part to arrive. In the meantime I managed to change the camshaft seal. I will try to finish everything up by end of next week and I am worried that it won't even start after all this work. I will post the results next week.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders hello Michael, I just finished the job today (two weeks later than expected due to some additional alternator work) and I already drove over 20 miles for for some errands. The car is running perfectly and there are no leaks, no loss of power, and no overheating. Thank you very much for your detailed videos. It turns out that rotating the crankshaft pulley counter clockwise one or two full turns didn't damage anything. Thank goodness.
@ This is an awesome way to start our day, thank you for sharing this. We literally just sat down to sip our ☕️ and answer any and all questions for the DIY community. You did awesome and you deserve this rewarding feeling. Enjoy it, and hopefully many stress free days ahead for you. 😁☕️🧰
Great video 👍 I would of replaced all the seals that were accessible during timing belt replacement. Ask me how I know? 😅 When I was younger. I replaced a used engine on a 93 Camry without replacing the seals and orings. Unfortunately, the oil pump seal started leaking 😬 Present day: Helping a friend replace a used engine on a 97 Camry for his daughter. I told him to buy a re-ring kit so we can have a fresh engine that will last a long time and no leaks. 😊
@@elgatogordo9523 Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts and advice. That is a great idea and we appreciate you taking the time to write us. 😁👍🧰
@@nickelbus7596 Thanks for the reply. As long as your engine is a non-interference or zero-tolerance engine, nothing internally can be damaged when timing belt breaks while engine is running. 👍
Hi Diy with Michael borders thanks for your video it's helpful your English is clear you explained very well i wish you can do more video with this model of car such as a clutch disc and clutch plate replacement thanks a lot man
That means the world to us, thank you. We do our best to get the DIY community the important info they need without wasting their valuable time. Any and all feedback is welcome here on our channel. 😁👍🧰
Hey Great video, Just wondering... Why do you turn the engine an additional 7/8 turn to line up with marker on plastic cover? What purpose does this serve?
We appreciate that. It helps prevent shock to the gears and additional parts. Helps lower risk-of-damage during the first engine start and first rotation or all interior engine parts inside cam and valves. Also adds a bit of reserve to allow belt to properly set. 🧰
I have told a friend that I can help him replace his timing belt, but the issue I'm running into is that his belt is broken. How can I tell, even if I align the timing marks, that I am on the right stroke? Do you know which piston is supposed to be TDC on the compression stroke when timing marks are aligned?
@@6-Bike-Garage Thank for watching, how is your project going? Once belt breaks, you will follow the steps shown in this video to properly align engine to TDC. You will be positioning and aligning cam and pistons for proper timing while doing that step of the project. How far along are you and your friend into this project?
@ thanks for reply. For some reason, I got it in my head that there was a risk it could be 180 out on timing (maybe from working on motorcycles which can be slightly different). I was thinking, “sure, with timing marks aligned, piston one is TDC, but how does it know if it’s a compression or exhaust stroke”. It wasn’t until we had the valve cover off that I realized the cam gear turns 360 for every 720 of the crank and if aligned, you can’t be 180 out. It took us 10 hours yesterday, but car is running well 😅. The two biggest issues were the harmonic balancer bolt (had to engineer a “special tool” after breaking a couple things. Then had trouble getting timing correct when the belt was on, but we got there eventually. I’m going to try and post a short vid to my channel in the next couple days about the experience if you are curious about the tool I came up with. Cheers
@ Thanks for the follow up, that’s great to hear. I bet your friend appreciated the help, that’s awesome. Hopefully many good running days ahead for your friends car. 😁🧰
@@billythomas4527 Thanks for watching, the lower oil pump pulley is not required to be positioned a specific way per our service manual. In other words, the position it came to a stop at after belt failed, is the position it will remain until project is complete and engine is started. Upper crankshaft pulley must be properly aligned. 👍
good video Rachet/Wrenches say those year Camry were NON INTERFERENCE engines sure timing needs to be correct is that true? probably since broke belt did not destroy
You are welcome, thank you. The 99 Camry engine is non-interference. 👍 Let us know if you have any questions. Looking forward to 2024, many more helpful videos to come. 🧰☕️
Idler pulley question: instead of installing the spring first, and then forcing the pulley downwards -- against the force of said spring -- would it be okay to install the belt first, and THEN the spring?
Good morning ☕️ thanks for reaching out to us. We haven’t performed it in that order before…can’t really give you a confident answer…makes us curious though…🤔 If it was us, we would perform as shown in this video being that following our manual worked well. Keep us posted. Let us know if you have any questions. 👍🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Okay, thank you. Of course, the manual is the the correct way...but having said that, my common sense just says, "Why fight the force of the spring?"
@@Ian-of9oi Thanks for watching, that’s a great idea. To answer your question, we have a non-tolerance…aka…zero-interference engine. This type of engine stops immediately and turns off when Timing Belt breaks or slips… leading to no damage to the internal engine.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I made it to the part where remove the crank bolt. Tried heating it. Tried holding the crank with a belt wrench and using a breaker bar. Got scared of breaking something. Going to try again Monday with a hotter torch and a bigger impact wrench.
I just got this job done at my mechanic, wish I would have seen this first might have tried it myself to save $800 haha. Quick question, after the mechanic did this job, there is a light squeak from a belt not sure which one when I turn the wheel hard to the right or hard left, would that be caused by changing any of the belts? I know they changed the timing and other belts.
Thanks for watching, $800.00 is too terrible of a price for a full Timing Belt replacement however we agree, making it a DIY project is a great option. As far as the squeaky belt, it’s likely due to new belt and as the new belt settles in, it will go away soon. 🧰
@@RagingBull721 Thanks for watching. You should only need to purchase a 1-gallon pre-mixed container of coolant. If interested in purchasing coolant, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases. amzn.to/4dr7kxR 😁👍🧰
So my 1999 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder had to have the timing belt changed out after doing everything correctly back together I went to restart the car I started it again and it fired up but it was running very rough and shut right off now what do I do nothing skipped everything was online inline
@@PaulNobile-wc8gq Thanks for watching, any update? Have you taken engine apart to inspect? It’s possible that the engine wasn’t on Top-Dead-Center (TDC). Please keep us posted. 🧰
Good morning ☕️ The setup will be a bit different as to the parts you remove to gain access to the belt for replacement however it will hopefully get you more familiar with the procedure so you can plan out your project accordingly. In the meantime, we are always here to help answer questions. 👍🧰
Good morning, just poured a ☕️ and am sitting down to answer any and all questions for the DIY community. Thank you kindly. Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re interested, join our DIY ecosystem and help us grow an exclusive group of DIYers. toolboxtoken.com Reach out to us any time! 🧰
My belt snapped while driving. Does this mean my crankshaft is out of time? That being said does the crankshaft pulley still have to be removed with the notch on 0° TDC? Also i cannot remove the harmonic balancer bolt without it turning and misaligning the notch from the timing mark. How do i keep it from misaligning while unbolting the bolt?
Thanks for watching, your engine is ok since it’s a non-interference engine…that’s if your engine is the same as ours. You will actually realign engine later in the project as you’re putting everything back together. You may need to apply heat directly to balancer bolt however be extremely careful not to melt anything that isn’t supposed to be touched with heat.
Sell a Toyota Camry of these year models; are you crazy!. I had mine for 23 years now. Wouldn't change it to anything! It is a really DIY friendly car and dependable as no other car! And it is really stylish according to many young people I met. Not as ugly as the newer Asian made cars!
I would like to note that normally it's bad for the motor to try turning with a snapped timing belt, but this particular engine is actually 'non-interference'. For those that don't know, it means the car maker designed the motor so that even if this does happen, the pistons won't run into the valves when it's out of time, and the engine just won't start. Toyota is really good at doing this because, well, it's Toyota and you'd expect nothing less. Honda....not so much!
Thanks for watching, you are spot on. This engine is non-interference. Let us know if you have any questions, and we are looking forward to 2024, many more helpful videos to come. 👍🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Actually, I do have a question. tl;dr = lined up the marks, installed the belt, loosened the tensioner bolt so it's on spring pressure, rotated the engine two full turns, but something feels....off... There's just a little bit too much slack on the slack side of the belt and I'm guessing it's because I'm trying to use a cheap belt and will be upgrading to OEM tomorrow, but is it normal to have a bit of slack on the 'slack side' of the belt, even when the tensioner is fully sprung? The kit DID come with two springs and I'm thinking about trying the beefier spring, but I don't know that it'd make much difference. In a nutshell, it's not like the timing is off by a whole tooth, more like 15% of a tooth, is that normal?
@@Rekuzan Good morning ☕️ Aftermarket belts can indeed be off and can cause this. We are looking forward to hearing back from you on an update with the OEM belt. 👍☕️
@@DIYwithMichaelBordersCuriouser & curiouser... After visiting the lovely stealership (You heard me...) that is known as Mountain States Toyota and blah blah blah [Skip], the OEM belt IS tighter than the aftermarket one, but not nearly as much as I thought it would be. Beedteedubs, there is no other possible slack because I replaced the water pump, oil pump, oil pump housing, idler pulley, tensioner pulley & crank sprocket. (My crank sprocket didn't have threaded holes for a gear puller so I had to drill and tap my own, and even though I COULD have reused the old one, the sprocket itself was out of balance and would cause a subtle vibration). I even checked the cam sprocket for throw-out clearance and there was none to speak of. The motor itself was well maintained over the course of it's life, is very tight, and just needed new regular wear items. That being said, after installing the belt turning the motor, torquing the tensioner pulley to spec, blah blah blah, the rotational assembly itself seems fine, GREAT compression (I'm going to run a compression test tomorrow), but there is still that 'haunting' amount of slack in the left side of the belt. Something tells me Toyota designed it this way and it would make sense to have a little looseness on the slack side and I'm proooooobably just being overly cautious. That being said, two questions:
@@morenikejohnson9419 Thanks for watching, something is definitely off…not lasting more that 3 weeks is a major concern. Have you confirmed that you’re installing the exact replacement part/kit for your exact engine?
Good morning, just poured a cup of coffee and am sitting down to answer any and all questions for the DIY community. Thanks for sharing this. 😎👍 Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our DIY ecosystem and become part of an exclusive group of DIYers. toolboxtoken.com Reach out to us any time! 🧰
If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases.
amzn.to/41ij80e
Ratchet wrench set: amzn.to/46JP0g5
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1. How to replace Timing Belt - (PART 2)
ua-cam.com/video/AiPMyNv2GEg/v-deo.html
2. Engine died/stalled on highway - Common causes
ua-cam.com/video/RgFlkqvhnkU/v-deo.htmlsi=2eNJYMN3CQ0IL4Sn
3. Replace Toyota Camry battery
ua-cam.com/video/rHNmGztyIOI/v-deo.html
4. Replace Toyota Camry headlight
ua-cam.com/video/l2oaAof3oyI/v-deo.html
5. Replace Toyota Camry shift cable
ua-cam.com/video/dP8Zjbc3SbE/v-deo.html
Excellent video and explanation of the timing marks. I would not have attempted it prior to your video, excellent camera work!
@@joerubi03
Good morning ☕️ we appreciate that. That’s awesome you took this project on as a DIY project, definitely saved yourself a lot of money. 😁👍
I just replaced my water pump and timing belt for my 2001 Camry. I followed your video and so impressed how it turned out. You have detailed instructions and made it easy. My fav quotes “do not cross thread “ and “don’t rush it”. Thanks
Thanks for watching, and that is very kind of you to say. And yes, cross-threading bolts and rushing is a no-go on our channel. 😁
Awesome job making it a DIY project, you deserve that earned rewarding feeling. Great to hear it turned out well.
Looking forward to 2024, many more helpful videos to come. 🧰
Thank you so much for this video. By far the best instructional video on this topic - everything from the narration, to steady and clear filming, and tips were really appreciated. This video was my main guide and reference for the entire job - and I now have a fantastic running car! It took me about a week and a few days more to do the job after parts arrived...and there were times when I was almost about to call a mechanic, but in the end everything worked out well, so I'm really glad I stuck to it (I learned heaps as well)!
For the harmonic balancer removal, I had to order in a really heavy duty harmonic balancer socket to break free the bolt (with heat and penetrating oil). For the timing belt installation, mine was 1 tooth off and/or incorrect timing as the crankshaft pulley moved while putting the belt on (and I didn't discover it till later). So I ended up mainly using the markings on the oil pulley to set the timing (the pulley behind the harmonic balancer; there's a small notch at about the 11.30-12 o'clock at the back teeth which lines up to a small indent on the housing behind). This was easier than using the marking on the lower timing belt cover as I could insert the crankshaft bolt and spin it and align (if I knocked the pulley out of TDC) instead of putting the cover, the harmonic balancer, and then bolt back in and checking. So that solved the problem of being at TDC before/after installing belt as I could easily verify it before putting everything back on. To solve the problem of being off by a tooth (and thus when moving 2 rotations, everything is out of order), I just had to make sure all the tension was on the side opposite to the tensioner pulley (i.e. the belt between the camshaft sprocket and water pump was tighter than the side between the camshaft and oil pump and crankshaft sprocket...because when the tensioner pulley bolt was loosened, that side would become tight as well). If the belt isn't broken, it's good to make matchstick markings on the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket to make sure the belt isn't off by a tooth (and also verifying by spinning 720deg / 2 revs). In the end, got it on, but the crankshaft pulley was a few degrees off TDC however camshaft was spot on. That was the best I could manage.
I ended up doing camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, oil pump seal, oil pump o-ring while there. The best way for doing the seals was using a screw driver approaching from the bore and prying it out that way. A small hook tool was also useful to fish out the seal after making an indent. To put the seal back in: for camshaft seal, press the old seal onto the new seal after pushing it in (making sure the lip hasn't come up - broke my genuine Toyota seal that way, had to use an aftermarket one to avoid waiting), reverse the camshaft sprocket and with the bolt, slowly screw in. For crankshaft seal: put it carefully in first with slight rotation. I used a pvc pipe at this point to edge it in. Then I finished it with a 3/8" extension and small mallet. For oil pump seal: first remove the oil pump (7 bolts), then lock it in a vice grip and remove.
Changed the spark plugs while I was at it as well. Went to turn it on and...nothing. Would crank but wouldn't start. Verified it wasn't the battery (charged up previously + used a powerbank jump starter). Checked my connections (only a few for this car). Pretty sure it wasn't the timing as I had verified it many many times with the cover off. Had to use Chrisfix's car won't start video to figure it out (fuel, air, spark, etc). What worked was twisting the key to ON for 10 seconds to let the oil pressurise, and then start the car. Car finally was able to weakly start after two days and after that no problem. I think because parts took 1.5 months to arrive, all the fuel and oil stuff had drained so it was hard to start by just cranking immediately.
Finished everything off with another video from you: hard/sticky gas pedal. Cleaned the throttle body (plus wiped the throttle cable with denatured alcohol)...and everything is running so smoothly now.
So... Big thanks! Have subscribed and relaxing after everything done by watching your latest vid on how to cook up a quarter cow. Now that's some darn good topic coverage there!
Replaced the timing belt on my 98 Camry. The job didn't go as smooth as in your video but your video was very helpful. Thank you!
Good morning ☕️
Great to hear our video was helpful, we are honored to hear that. Awesome job making it a DIY project.
🧰
I legit used your link because I want you to get a piece of the affiliate link money. This was extremely helpful.
I am now just knowledgeable enough to be dangerous. Lol. (Enough to try this, such a waste to junk the car when all it needs is a timing belt)
@@adamfrbs9259
We appreciate you watching and writing us. We feel the same, it would be a waste of a good car.
Replacing the timing belt and getting the car back on the road is the smartest route to take! 😁👍🧰
@DIYwithMichaelBorders this is the big weekend for the swap. We'll see how I do, most technical thing I've ever done is swap a gas tank on an old Ford van, had to get that stupid Ford fuel line tool for that one.
@DIYwithMichaelBorders dang, did it all, wanted to fire the first second, like a carbed car that wouldn't fire up. Then nothing, no almost fire or anything, just turned over n over.
When you turned it around from the harmonic balancer with the wrench, were you holding it back from the compression making it want to jump forward as you turned it? That's what it kept doing to me, jumped forward, then the belt would lose some tension until I turned it some more. It seemed odd for the belt to lose as much tension as it did at those points when it would jump forward. That make sense? Is that normal?
@@adamfrbs9259
Absolutely! 😎👍
How did it go?
@@adamfrbs9259
Thanks for the follow up. There’s a minor amount of room for error however not much at all. If we read this correctly, you are all finished and back up and running, correct?
Friendly tip. You need to make sure the timing belt is tight on the right side or the crank sprocket will move before the cam sprocket as shown in your video causing an out of time condition.
@@Radar88269
Thanks for watching and sharing this tip, much appreciated. 😁👍🧰
Very clear and thorough instruction. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent video brother and the camera angles are awesome, Quick question if I need to adjust the belt due to having a little slack do I need to align everything dead center or can I just adjust it by the tensioner pulley? Thanks
@@rogeryanez8107
Thanks for watching, as long as the belt teeth don’t move out of their current slots…you will be good to go.
Good job brother. I am a Toyota specialist. My strength is in older models. I am getting ready to do my water pump. 👍
On my 01 Camry
How many hours is this job at a mechanic shop? Looks more than I could handle.
Great, clear, instructional video. Thx!
Thanks for watching. It may require 3-4 hours at the absolute max. The shop will have all the tools and parts handy to complete it rather quickly. Shop times and expertise may vary of course. 👍
i love this channel now. very helpfull and detailed. thanks dude
question regarding your warnings (13:45): I did spin the crankshaft counter-clockwise a turn or two by mistake when trying to align it to the dead zero notch (with the timing belt still on, and before I watched your video). I am still in the process of changing the timing belt, water pump, and oil pump. What can go wrong once I put everything back together? Thanks.
@@mrvaltinho
Thanks for watching, how is your project going? There is a little bit of play in regards to the engine tolerances if turned counterclockwise however not much at all.
In other words, you will never want to turn engine counterclockwise during the alignment.
Keep us posted. ☕️🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks for the reply. I ran into a problem where I installed a new oil pump only to realize that the socket for the crankshaft sensor was missing. So I ordered another oil pump and I am still waiting for the part to arrive. In the meantime I managed to change the camshaft seal. I will try to finish everything up by end of next week and I am worried that it won't even start after all this work. I will post the results next week.
@
We appreciate the follow up. Looking forward to hearing back from you. 🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders hello Michael, I just finished the job today (two weeks later than expected due to some additional alternator work) and I already drove over 20 miles for for some errands. The car is running perfectly and there are no leaks, no loss of power, and no overheating. Thank you very much for your detailed videos. It turns out that rotating the crankshaft pulley counter clockwise one or two full turns didn't damage anything. Thank goodness.
@
This is an awesome way to start our day, thank you for sharing this. We literally just sat down to sip our ☕️ and answer any and all questions for the DIY community.
You did awesome and you deserve this rewarding feeling. Enjoy it, and hopefully many stress free days ahead for you.
😁☕️🧰
Great video 👍 I would of replaced all the seals that were accessible during timing belt replacement. Ask me how I know? 😅 When I was younger. I replaced a used engine on a 93 Camry without replacing the seals and orings. Unfortunately, the oil pump seal started leaking 😬 Present day: Helping a friend replace a used engine on a 97 Camry for his daughter. I told him to buy a re-ring kit so we can have a fresh engine that will last a long time and no leaks. 😊
@@elgatogordo9523
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts and advice. That is a great idea and we appreciate you taking the time to write us.
😁👍🧰
Very good excellent it's so help this video
@@IsmaelC-yi8qq
Good morning, we appreciate the feedback. Many more helpful videos to come. ☕️🧰
Is it possible that the valves can bend if it breaks while driving?
@@nickelbus7596
Thanks for the reply. As long as your engine is a non-interference or zero-tolerance engine, nothing internally can be damaged when timing belt breaks while engine is running. 👍
Hi Diy with Michael borders thanks for your video it's helpful your English is clear you explained very well i wish you can do more video with this model of car such as a clutch disc and clutch plate replacement thanks a lot man
That means the world to us, thank you. We do our best to get the DIY community the important info they need without wasting their valuable time.
Any and all feedback is welcome here on our channel. 😁👍🧰
Very good video. Thank you. GOD BLESS YOU.
@@BenitoH-s7n
You are very welcome, GOD BLESS YOU.
Hey Great video, Just wondering... Why do you turn the engine an additional 7/8 turn to line up with marker on plastic cover? What purpose does this serve?
We appreciate that. It helps prevent shock to the gears and additional parts. Helps lower risk-of-damage during the first engine start and first rotation or all interior engine parts inside cam and valves. Also adds a bit of reserve to allow belt to properly set. 🧰
I have told a friend that I can help him replace his timing belt, but the issue I'm running into is that his belt is broken. How can I tell, even if I align the timing marks, that I am on the right stroke? Do you know which piston is supposed to be TDC on the compression stroke when timing marks are aligned?
@@6-Bike-Garage
Thank for watching, how is your project going? Once belt breaks, you will follow the steps shown in this video to properly align engine to TDC.
You will be positioning and aligning cam and pistons for proper timing while doing that step of the project. How far along are you and your friend into this project?
@ thanks for reply. For some reason, I got it in my head that there was a risk it could be 180 out on timing (maybe from working on motorcycles which can be slightly different). I was thinking, “sure, with timing marks aligned, piston one is TDC, but how does it know if it’s a compression or exhaust stroke”. It wasn’t until we had the valve cover off that I realized the cam gear turns 360 for every 720 of the crank and if aligned, you can’t be 180 out. It took us 10 hours yesterday, but car is running well 😅. The two biggest issues were the harmonic balancer bolt (had to engineer a “special tool” after breaking a couple things. Then had trouble getting timing correct when the belt was on, but we got there eventually. I’m going to try and post a short vid to my channel in the next couple days about the experience if you are curious about the tool I came up with. Cheers
@
Thanks for the follow up, that’s great to hear. I bet your friend appreciated the help, that’s awesome.
Hopefully many good running days ahead for your friends car. 😁🧰
@DIYwithMichaelBorders
Hey at 36:50 QUESTION. Is it normal the oil pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley aren't 100% aligned ? (On my car)
@@billythomas4527
Thanks for watching, the lower oil pump pulley is not required to be positioned a specific way per our service manual.
In other words, the position it came to a stop at after belt failed, is the position it will remain until project is complete and engine is started.
Upper crankshaft pulley must be properly aligned.
👍
How do you tighten the 19mm bolt on the harmonic balancer without the flywheel turning?
Put it in gear
@@h0udinlI'ts an automatic!
good video Rachet/Wrenches say those year Camry were NON INTERFERENCE engines sure timing needs to be correct is that true? probably since broke belt did not destroy
You are welcome, thank you. The 99 Camry engine is non-interference. 👍
Let us know if you have any questions. Looking forward to 2024, many more helpful videos to come. 🧰☕️
Idler pulley question: instead of installing the spring first, and then forcing the pulley downwards -- against the force of said spring -- would it be okay to install the belt first, and THEN the spring?
Good morning ☕️ thanks for reaching out to us. We haven’t performed it in that order before…can’t really give you a confident answer…makes us curious though…🤔
If it was us, we would perform as shown in this video being that following our manual worked well. Keep us posted. Let us know if you have any questions. 👍🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Okay, thank you. Of course, the manual is the the correct way...but having said that, my common sense just says, "Why fight the force of the spring?"
@@Maplecook
😁👍☕️
Superb video. Nicely done
We appreciate that, thank you. 😁👍
which engine is this? is very similar to the 3SGE but is it not.
either way it will help me fix my Celica
@@EseParalistDeAhi
Thanks for watching. This is the 2.2L
@@EseParalistDeAhi all these engines are basically the same with a different displacement. 1.8, 2.0, and the 2.2 all the same set up!
When and how did you torque the harmonic balancer bolt to 80 ft lbs?😮
Thanks for watching, if your manual states 80ft lbs, we recommend it.
I have a leaky oil pump gasket. I’m going to do the timing belt while I’m at it. Question. Your belt is broken. Why are your valves not bent?
@@Ian-of9oi
Thanks for watching, that’s a great idea.
To answer your question, we have a non-tolerance…aka…zero-interference engine.
This type of engine stops immediately and turns off when Timing Belt breaks or slips… leading to no damage to the internal engine.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders thanks for letting me know. I just bought one of these.
@
😎👍🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I made it to the part where remove the crank bolt. Tried heating it. Tried holding the crank with a belt wrench and using a breaker bar. Got scared of breaking something. Going to try again Monday with a hotter torch and a bigger impact wrench.
@
Thanks for the update. That hardware can be pretty stubborn. Hoping for a good and successful Monday for you.
I just got this job done at my mechanic, wish I would have seen this first might have tried it myself to save $800 haha. Quick question, after the mechanic did this job, there is a light squeak from a belt not sure which one when I turn the wheel hard to the right or hard left, would that be caused by changing any of the belts? I know they changed the timing and other belts.
Thanks for watching, $800.00 is too terrible of a price for a full Timing Belt replacement however we agree, making it a DIY project is a great option.
As far as the squeaky belt, it’s likely due to new belt and as the new belt settles in, it will go away soon. 🧰
Excellent video 👍
Thank you. 😎👍
How much coolant does it require
@@RagingBull721
Thanks for watching. You should only need to purchase a 1-gallon pre-mixed container of coolant.
If interested in purchasing coolant, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases.
amzn.to/4dr7kxR
😁👍🧰
Oil pump seals, Crankshaft seal and Cam seal was leaking. Why not replace these inexpensive parts while you're doing the job?
Good morning ☕️ not a bad idea at all. We appreciate you sharing your thoughts, always welcome here on our channel. 😁👍🧰
So my 1999 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder had to have the timing belt changed out after doing everything correctly back together I went to restart the car I started it again and it fired up but it was running very rough and shut right off now what do I do nothing skipped everything was online inline
@@PaulNobile-wc8gq
Thanks for watching, any update? Have you taken engine apart to inspect? It’s possible that the engine wasn’t on Top-Dead-Center (TDC).
Please keep us posted. 🧰
Than you Mr. Borders.
Good morning ☕️ you are welcome.
🧰
Lol I turned it counter clockwise owch 😂👍🏻
@@anthonyweber156
Thanks for watching, let us know if you have any questions.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders actually my harmonic balancer is seized what size bolts did you use in the video?
@@anthonyweber156
If remembering correctly, 19mm.
Excelente video 📸
Thank you, we appreciate that. 👍
Hello, will this work for a 1999 Lexus ES300?
Good morning ☕️
The setup will be a bit different as to the parts you remove to gain access to the belt for replacement however it will hopefully get you more familiar with the procedure so you can plan out your project accordingly.
In the meantime, we are always here to help answer questions. 👍🧰
Thank you ,good job.
Good morning, just poured a ☕️ and am sitting down to answer any and all questions for the DIY community.
Thank you kindly. Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re interested, join our DIY ecosystem and help us grow an exclusive group of DIYers.
toolboxtoken.com
Reach out to us any time! 🧰
26:14 do not drop these nuts😂
thanks for your video
Thanks for watching. 😁👍🧰
My belt snapped while driving. Does this mean my crankshaft is out of time? That being said does the crankshaft pulley still have to be removed with the notch on 0° TDC? Also i cannot remove the harmonic balancer bolt without it turning and misaligning the notch from the timing mark. How do i keep it from misaligning while unbolting the bolt?
Thanks for watching, your engine is ok since it’s a non-interference engine…that’s if your engine is the same as ours.
You will actually realign engine later in the project as you’re putting everything back together.
You may need to apply heat directly to balancer bolt however be extremely careful not to melt anything that isn’t supposed to be touched with heat.
If you have an impact gun, you can take off harmonic balancer bolt without crankshaft moving.
How do you loose the 19mm bolt on homonic balancer without counterclockwise turning the gear?
Just hold that bad boy down by hand from what I've seen. I'm trying to consume as much info about it before I try to do it.
I need an answer for this as well lol
Sell a Toyota Camry of these year models; are you crazy!. I had mine for 23 years now. Wouldn't change it to anything! It is a really DIY friendly car and dependable as no other car! And it is really stylish according to many young people I met. Not as ugly as the newer Asian made cars!
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. You are spot on, the 90’s Toyotas are the BEST! 🧰
Cam and crank seals should replaced plus the thermostat has a small hole must placing upward .
@@baungu1089
Thanks for watching, replacing additional seals is definitely a bonus. 👍🧰
I got it! Thank you!!
Thanks for watching. 🧰
I would like to note that normally it's bad for the motor to try turning with a snapped timing belt, but this particular engine is actually 'non-interference'.
For those that don't know, it means the car maker designed the motor so that even if this does happen, the pistons won't run into the valves when it's out of time, and the engine just won't start.
Toyota is really good at doing this because, well, it's Toyota and you'd expect nothing less. Honda....not so much!
Thanks for watching, you are spot on. This engine is non-interference.
Let us know if you have any questions, and we are looking forward to 2024, many more helpful videos to come.
👍🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Actually, I do have a question. tl;dr = lined up the marks, installed the belt, loosened the tensioner bolt so it's on spring pressure, rotated the engine two full turns, but something feels....off... There's just a little bit too much slack on the slack side of the belt and I'm guessing it's because I'm trying to use a cheap belt and will be upgrading to OEM tomorrow, but is it normal to have a bit of slack on the 'slack side' of the belt, even when the tensioner is fully sprung? The kit DID come with two springs and I'm thinking about trying the beefier spring, but I don't know that it'd make much difference. In a nutshell, it's not like the timing is off by a whole tooth, more like 15% of a tooth, is that normal?
@@Rekuzan
Good morning ☕️
Aftermarket belts can indeed be off and can cause this. We are looking forward to hearing back from you on an update with the OEM belt. 👍☕️
@@DIYwithMichaelBordersCuriouser & curiouser... After visiting the lovely stealership (You heard me...) that is known as Mountain States Toyota and blah blah blah [Skip], the OEM belt IS tighter than the aftermarket one, but not nearly as much as I thought it would be. Beedteedubs, there is no other possible slack because I replaced the water pump, oil pump, oil pump housing, idler pulley, tensioner pulley & crank sprocket. (My crank sprocket didn't have threaded holes for a gear puller so I had to drill and tap my own, and even though I COULD have reused the old one, the sprocket itself was out of balance and would cause a subtle vibration). I even checked the cam sprocket for throw-out clearance and there was none to speak of. The motor itself was well maintained over the course of it's life, is very tight, and just needed new regular wear items. That being said, after installing the belt turning the motor, torquing the tensioner pulley to spec, blah blah blah, the rotational assembly itself seems fine, GREAT compression (I'm going to run a compression test tomorrow), but there is still that 'haunting' amount of slack in the left side of the belt. Something tells me Toyota designed it this way and it would make sense to have a little looseness on the slack side and I'm proooooobably just being overly cautious. That being said, two questions:
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders tl;dr =
1. NGK or Denso?
2. Compression test specs? Normal range for a high mileage motor?
Very well explained
Good morning ☕️ thank you. 😁👍
What is the total solution to this timing belt problem. I am tired. The belt doesn't last for 3 weeks. I need help please.
@@morenikejohnson9419
Thanks for watching, something is definitely off…not lasting more that 3 weeks is a major concern.
Have you confirmed that you’re installing the exact replacement part/kit for your exact engine?
Take your spark plugs out next time and you won't have so much of a problem spinning the engine over
Good morning, thanks for sharing. ☕️
God bless u bro
Thank you, god bless you as well. 🧰
I remember 07 camry is timing chain
Good morning, just poured a cup of coffee and am sitting down to answer any and all questions for the DIY community.
Thanks for sharing this. 😎👍 Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our DIY ecosystem and become part of an exclusive group of DIYers.
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Good jop
We appreciate that, thank you. 👍
Why don't I fix the makeup like the machine head is at the bottom?
Good morning ☕️ how is your project going?