Maaaannn..... this tutorial is the best! I was able to replace my timing belt, water pump, and pulleys without any problems whatsoever... thanks a million for making this video!
At 65 I love the fact that there are Sons and Daughters that take up the fight. I grew up doing mechanical on the farm. Good, Honest work. Thank You Brother! Calgary, Canada
Neighbor asked me about doing this job. He said one place quoted $900. Another said starting at $400 but it could be up to $750 depending if both the belt and pump need to be changed. $700 seems fair. This looks like a bit of a job. I always feel more comfortable doing stuff like this the first time on my own vehicle.
It's about 6.5 hours labor to do the belt, pullies and pump. Multiply that by the shop's hourly rate then add parts. Usually a shop will double their cost of parts. So if the kit costs them $150 then they would resell it for $300. This helps pay for any warranty work if they need to tear back into it due to a failed component. $900 seems to be closer to what I would expect for this service from a professional shop.
You people are the heroes of those who, at the moment don't have $1,000 dollars to pay someone for this (what it costs around here). My timing belt is in very bad shape, and it needs to be replaced immediately. This video is a lifesaver.
Thank you for your generosity of heart to share this video. Just wrapped up my timing belt replacement. Watched your video through and then backed it up and stepped forward through the procedure 3-4 minutes at a time.
Watching you vid as a refresher. Im at 200k on my 06 sienna 3.3L. Those long water pump studs are a huge pain! I never got them off! PRO TIP: jack up the motor by the transmission and the water pump clears those studs. I didn't know about backing off 60 degrees. Will watch out for it this time around. I replaced cam seals last time with toyota seals. What a pain. They were fine last time. Im thinking of not replacing this time around.
I've done it though I did not follow all the steps in this video. Car running good. The top bolt of the tensioner gave me a hard time and broke my 1/4 inch ratchet but the box wrench took care of it. And at the end I've replaced that bolt with smaller head and shorter tread.
With all the 3.3 mzfe videos I like your the most. Very intuitive per oem spec but still able to bypass the step. I just bought 06 w/ 220kmi highway mile and it drive great just has badly oil soaks. I heard it can easily goes 500kmi. Thank you for doing this 3.3.
I appreciate this video. Very good job being clear and concise with your instruction. Good work with lighting and emphasis on the timing marks. Also like how you are refering to the service manual throughout. Overall, a quality viewing experience!
Agree. Very thorough, not rushing over important parts, and showing the times he got ahead of himself. Any chance we can get a copy of the manual steps PDF? 😊
Thank you so much for the clear instructions. Good videography and audio quality and torque specs! (I’m a mechanical engineer) I’m ready to tackle this on our old Sienna with 206k miles next month.
Great video! It would be helpful to hear time estimates with these, or maybe knowing how long it took you, including the extra time talking to the camera. In another comment you said "about 6.5 hours labor to do the belt, pullies and pump", but that might be the stock labor estimate, including doing some of the extra things you sidestepped. And would removing the cowl give a better view of that back pulley or any other benefit? It only took 10 minutes or so to remove for spark plugs, but probably just under that to reinstall, so maybe 15-20 minutes total. It all adds up. Thanks again. I'm doing the hoses at the same time, and it's time to replace the antifreeze too, so I'll just drain all that I can.
You don't need to remove the windshield drain to remove the vertical bolt that secures the torque strut mount. As you bring that bolt up angle it and it will come out
thank you robert, for you video the replace thi timing belt, i like so much you to jobs ok god bless you yours families, happy sabathday in jesus name amen. be carefull❤😮😊
Can I get some help here. I watched at least 5 videos on this n none of them finished up timing belt setup with turning the crank 2 revolutions. The instructions that came with Aisin kit 026 says to do that. So I did what it said n after 2 revs it back to TDC, the cam belt lines were off by a mile. It says everything should line up again, but it didn't. Am I somehow off timing now? What can I do. To add, I did do another 6 turns to get the cam lines to line up to marks again, well closer anyway. Only 1/2" off now. What do I do? It seemed fine turning the crank I felt compression resistance.
@@tomgaffney740 Don't worry about the belt lines. They won't line up after you turn the crank twice. What you want to line up are the marks on the gears. The cams should be at 12 o'clock and the crank should match the mark on the engine. Time index 20:49. Let me know if that helps 👍
@ValleyMobileAutomotive hello, n thank you for reply. I agree I figure how could they line up but from instructions it seems that's what they want. So what about me turning the crank 8 times n bringing belt lines back to within 2 teeth?
@@tomgaffney740 It doesn't mean anything. If you turn the crank enough times eventually the lines will line back up. Once the belt is on and the crank is turned the lines no longer matter. They are only used for initial installation.
Thank you very much for this terrific video guide. One of my E8 star head studs on the water pump was seized up and I managed to strip the head. Any suggestions on what to do to extract this stripped stud?
That's a tough one! Sometimes a little heat at the base of the stud helps. I hate to recommend vice grips but if it's already stripped you might get lucky.
On your video at about 1655 I see your front cam sprocket is lined up . My front is lined up but my rear sprocket is not. Should I force it to be lined by turning it clockwise to is is lined up? I had turned the lower 60 degrees counter clock wise as you did and as the instructions showed with the aisin kit. Help would be appreciated I don't won't to mess it up. Thanks
I'm a little terrified right now but also hopeful. I adjusted everything to line up but also made sure to back up the crankshaft 60°. I proceeded to remove the tensioner, tensioner pulley, and then the belt. But before I touched the belt, the back cam slipped and sprung backwards. Really hoping that having turned the crank back, saved me from misery. Almost like the engineers knew it would be under tension.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I definitely appreciate your reassurance! I've done plenty of my own work over the years but this is the first major engine fix that I've done I'm pretty confident with the rest of the procedure after watching hours of video and researching how to do this job. I heard that the back cam could move I just didn't imagine it would be with such a sudden snap! A little more than I was expecting
@ValleyMobileAutomotive finally got around to turning it over after taking care of the throttle body, thermostat and housing and the Battery. Such relief to hear it turn over and purr instead of explode into a bunch of metal confetti lol! Now while I have the cowl all torn apart, it's time to do the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and coils. I'm sure that back one will be exceptionally fun! Anyway thanks for the vote of confidence and the great tutorial. Keep up the honest work!
Thanks for the great video! I'm following along as I'm working on my 04 Sienna. Have a question. I moved the crank about 60 deg. BTDC but I was turning it clockwise instead of counter-clockwise (my mistake), did I mess up? After the move, both cams were away from the timing marks as well. Also, when I was removing the t-belt, both cams jumped. So after I replace the crank and cam seals but before putting on the new belt, can I just turn the cams clockwise back to their timing mark? and do the same for the crank? Thanks
60 degrees before and 60 degrees after TDC the piston is in the same location in the cylinder. Just one is on it's up stroke and the other is on the down stroke. But in either direction the piston should be far enough away that the valves won't crash into it when the cam moves. So you should be fine. When it comes time to align it all for belt installation move the cams first to their timing marks then the crank back at TDC. All is good 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for your reply. When I turn the cam's and then the crank to set timing, do I need to watch out for anything? I heard that if I turn them individually w/o the t-belt, I could potentially damage them. Also, is it okay to put the front of the van on jack stands with the driver side tire still on, for several weeks ? my progress is really slow. Thanks.
@@chrisken7724 It's important to turn and align the cams first while the crank is out 60 degrees then turn the crank second. I don't see an issue with leaving the vehicle on jack stands. Some might argue that it puts stress on the control arm bushings and the strut shock but I think if the suspension components are designed to carry the weight of the vehicle bouncing down the road they can handle being suspended for a time without issue. Just my thought
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Does it matter whether I turn the cams CW or CCW ? My front cam mark is at 4 'clock, rear cam mark is at 5 'clock so smaller turns if doing CCW. Thanks.
1:00 this piece won’t unscrew for me. I tried using a ratchet and the whole wheel moved with it. And I used a power drill and it wouldn’t budge. Any tips
Using an impact wrench like I did is the easiest way. Otherwise you need to hold the harmonic balancer from moving. They make a tool that will hold it while you use a long breaker bar to get the bolt loose.
Hey Steve, my manual is part of a professional subscription to Identifix. It's a little spendy unless this is what you do for work on a regular basis. Some other options are Alldata diy, Mitchell has a diy option or Toyota offers a 3 day subscription to everything you could ever want to know about your car including repair information and wiring diagrams.
Hi, Could you please answer this question. Two spacers fell out of the car when I was replacing my sienna water pump and the timing belt. I found them under the car. I do not know where they go. The hole is about 5/16 of an inch. You can look at my profile picture in the ABOUT section to see the picture of the spacer. Thanks!
Nice work. Super helpful comments add clarity. Couple of questions: 1) Which manual are you following, the official Toyota manual or an aftermarket version? 2) I get why the crank is moved 60 degrees prior to removal of the timing belt, but then how can you move the cams back to the reference position with the crank still at 60 BTDC?! Seems that would put you back in the danger zone for hitting the valves with the pistons, with the cams and the crank way out of "sync". What am I missing?
Hey thanks 👍. Good questions. This manual is from Identifix (similar to alldata). It says it's a reprint under license from Toyota Motor Sales. Once the crank is out of the way and the belt is off you can now safely move the cams back to their timing marks. This is a controlled positioning. Once in place they are pretty stable and don't feel like they are going to move. Now the crank can be put back safely. Yes you still need to be careful moving the cams too much but they can be moved a little as needed. If you pull the timing belt off with all marks lined up you don't know if a cam is at the edge of rolling. This way you know for sure.
I replaced the timing belt but I had to force squeeze it tight. All the marks lined up but when I went to start the car it’s making this horrible squealing sound like it might be too tight or rubbing against a cover… do you what this might be? Or how to loosen the timing belt? Thanks a much!
The timing belt has an automatic tensioner. There shouldn't be any force tightening needed. Try taking off the serpentine belt then start it and see if the noise goes away.
Just wondering how long it took you to do this job? Also would you feel comfortable buying a parts kit on eBay or would you suggest buying from Toyota, I just don't want to buy low quality parts and have an issue down the road.
The 60* is for belt removal not installation. When installing the belt the cams and crank need to be rotated separately to put them back. Then just line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the timing gears and you should be set to go 👍
In reality probably nothing. Moving the crank back 60 degrees moves the piston down from top dead center. This helps prevent the valves from coming in contact with the piston head if the cam decides to spin on you. In my experience the cam is moving too slow to cause any real damage if the valves do hit. But it does give you peace of mind 🙂
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I hope that is the case. Just had the back cam smack backward before I got the belt off, it made a sickening metallic ping. however I did have the crankshaft at 60° btdc after i matched everything up to begin with. Really hope it's all good...
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive all good, thanks for the quick reply! I thought it was seized but I needed a large breaker bar to reset it. I’m at a point now where I can’t get the 12mm upper bolt off the Timing Belt Tensioner 😂😂
Would the same steps for timing marks be the same for a 2006 sienna 3.3?? Im about to remove the tensioner and didn't know I have to turn the crankshaft to 60 degrees counterclockwise. THANK YOU!
I think I damaged my valve doing this procedure I didn’t backed the crankshaft 60 degrees back to set the alignment on the cams and while I was moving the belt to put it in place with the marks the bank1 camshaft moved on me I thought that putting it back in place was fine but apparently after I assembled the belt and started the engine I noticed a hesitation an lack of strength on the engine specially at around 1200 rpm any thoughts??? Please help!
I would recheck your timing marks. While it's possible, it's rare to actually damage a valve when the cam slips. Also the orientation of the belt is important. Weather the arrows point towards our away from the engine.
That's a good question. If the belt is symmetrical and there is the same amount of teeth between the cam markings and the crank marking then it should be in time regardless of if the arrows are pointing in or out. Some belts are directional but I'm not sure about this one.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive so I got it back on and turned on the engine. There is a crankshaft code. And it kind of sounds weird like little rattling or ticking. But I did remove the intake to replace the top and bottom gaskets and I haven't put back the back brakets to I dont know if its those making noise or its the motor.
I see your video on UA-cam thank you so much..and I need your help I don’t know what going on my power steering wheel fluid reservoir overflowing out I think not pump …need your help my car Toyota sienna 06 thank you
Yes, it's the same engine. I'm not 100% sure if all the torque specs are the exact same so you might want to double check those. But the procedure should be very similar to this video.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive they’re doing the timing belt, water pump, and whatever else comes in that kit for the timing belt. Also includes the coolant and diagnoses of the issue since I had it towed there. I thought it was a fair price I’ve had friends tell me it was a good deal. Thanks for the reply. Enjoyed your video.
Hi Robert, thank you for sharing how to do the timing belt and water pump. I'm in the process of doing mine but I'm a little scared to fuck it but I'm sure I will go for it. Would you share the PDF instructions? Thanks again
Hey Adido, it's a big project for sure. I've done a lot of timing belts over the years and I still get that nervous feeling starting it back up for the first time. Unfortunately I can't share the manual documents. Hopefully there is enough information in the video. If you have any questions feel free to send them in the comments 👍
Everything needs to line up. Double check that the belt is oriented correctly and that you are matching up the correct lines. If needed take the belt off and start over. You can move the crank a little to get it to line up. Or move the cams, whichever is easier. This is an interference engine so damage can occur if your timing is off.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I went and got a gates belt. Everything on that belt lined up. New problem. I start the car starts fine. I shut it and go to start, it just cranks. I keep cranking to start, eventually it starts but I get a bank 2' p0341 code. As the car runs the idle gets worse and car is shaking. Obviously it's a timing issue, how do I correct it. I double checked to make sure everything was like up
@@Jame6999 Unfortunately you have to take the belt off and reset the timing. There was another comment similar to yours and they said they accidentally had the belt turned around facing the wrong direction. Not sure if that's what happened but it is something that can happen.
@@Jame6999 That should be correct. Pull the timing covers off and double check all the marks on the cam and crank are in the right spots (don't worry about the lines on the belt at this point). You may be a tooth off?
Maaaannn..... this tutorial is the best! I was able to replace my timing belt, water pump, and pulleys without any problems whatsoever... thanks a million for making this video!
Awesome!
Working it now, only broke off two bolts so far!
At 65 I love the fact that there are Sons and Daughters that take up the fight. I grew up doing mechanical on the farm. Good, Honest work. Thank You Brother! Calgary, Canada
I followed his instructions and it worked fine. The torque specs were helpful. Thanks.
Did you have trouble getting off that 22" head
Neighbor asked me about doing this job. He said one place quoted $900. Another said starting at $400 but it could be up to $750 depending if both the belt and pump need to be changed. $700 seems fair. This looks like a bit of a job. I always feel more comfortable doing stuff like this the first time on my own vehicle.
It's about 6.5 hours labor to do the belt, pullies and pump. Multiply that by the shop's hourly rate then add parts. Usually a shop will double their cost of parts. So if the kit costs them $150 then they would resell it for $300. This helps pay for any warranty work if they need to tear back into it due to a failed component. $900 seems to be closer to what I would expect for this service from a professional shop.
Excellent, Excellent video! I've got a 2004 with 112,000 miles and this makes the process look so much more doable. Thanks 👍
Well did you do it?
I'm approaching 200K its time for the 2nd replacement, if its too difficult I'll go to the dealer.
You people are the heroes of those who, at the moment don't have $1,000 dollars to pay someone for this (what it costs around here). My timing belt is in very bad shape, and it needs to be replaced immediately. This video is a lifesaver.
Just hit 315,000 miles 🎉
I need to do this service, as well as valve cover gaskets. 👀
I have been on UA-cam for so Long? Your the Only Person Who really explained everything To A TEE! Thank you SO MUCH !
@@johnsoto8612 You're welcome! Glad this video is helpful 🙂
Thank you for your generosity of heart to share this video. Just wrapped up my timing belt replacement. Watched your video through and then backed it up and stepped forward through the procedure 3-4 minutes at a time.
@@jamesoiler2530 Nice! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Watching you vid as a refresher. Im at 200k on my 06 sienna 3.3L. Those long water pump studs are a huge pain! I never got them off! PRO TIP: jack up the motor by the transmission and the water pump clears those studs.
I didn't know about backing off 60 degrees. Will watch out for it this time around.
I replaced cam seals last time with toyota seals. What a pain. They were fine last time. Im thinking of not replacing this time around.
You saved me $1400 awesome video god bless have a great new year’s
what a benefit outstanding reach with long arms gives to easily access all those bolts on the passenger side of the engine
Thank you! This is a very informative video with a no-nonsense approach.
@@brandenwilson5586 You're welcome! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Thank you. I replaced mine. You're the best in town for
I've done it though I did not follow all the steps in this video. Car running good. The top bolt of the tensioner gave me a hard time and broke my 1/4 inch ratchet but the box wrench took care of it. And at the end I've replaced that bolt with smaller head and shorter tread.
I appreciate people like yourself! Thanks for the lesson.
@@mannyfresh8504 You're welcome! Glad this video was helpful 👍
With all the 3.3 mzfe videos I like your the most. Very intuitive per oem spec but still able to bypass the step. I just bought 06 w/ 220kmi highway mile and it drive great just has badly oil soaks. I heard it can easily goes 500kmi. Thank you for doing this 3.3.
Fantastic editing and information. Very clear and direct!!
Just want to comment. This video helped me. Thank you so much for putting the effort to make this video for us noobs!
@@ProjectWoke You're welcome! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
I appreciate this video. Very good job being clear and concise with your instruction. Good work with lighting and emphasis on the timing marks. Also like how you are refering to the service manual throughout. Overall, a quality viewing experience!
Thank you! Glad this video was helpful 👍
Agree. Very thorough, not rushing over important parts, and showing the times he got ahead of himself. Any chance we can get a copy of the manual steps PDF? 😊
This guy really was so informative he help me nail it thank you so much really appreciate you in the video.
Did you send anything
Good video. Easy to warch.
Thx
Very good, you're a very skilled mechanic
Hey thanks 👍
Thank you so much for the clear instructions. Good videography and audio quality and torque specs! (I’m a mechanical engineer) I’m ready to tackle this on our old Sienna with 206k miles next month.
Perhaps anything for the boy
Great video! It would be helpful to hear time estimates with these, or maybe knowing how long it took you, including the extra time talking to the camera. In another comment you said "about 6.5 hours labor to do the belt, pullies and pump", but that might be the stock labor estimate, including doing some of the extra things you sidestepped.
And would removing the cowl give a better view of that back pulley or any other benefit? It only took 10 minutes or so to remove for spark plugs, but probably just under that to reinstall, so maybe 15-20 minutes total. It all adds up.
Thanks again. I'm doing the hoses at the same time, and it's time to replace the antifreeze too, so I'll just drain all that I can.
You don't need to remove the windshield drain to remove the vertical bolt that secures the torque strut mount. As you bring that bolt up angle it and it will come out
You correct 👍
thank you robert, for you video the replace thi timing belt, i like so much you to jobs ok
god bless you yours families, happy sabathday in jesus name amen.
be carefull❤😮😊
Thanks Ramon 🙂
Can I get some help here. I watched at least 5 videos on this n none of them finished up timing belt setup with turning the crank 2 revolutions. The instructions that came with Aisin kit 026 says to do that.
So I did what it said n after 2 revs it back to TDC, the cam belt lines were off by a mile. It says everything should line up again, but it didn't. Am I somehow off timing now? What can I do.
To add, I did do another 6 turns to get the cam lines to line up to marks again, well closer anyway. Only 1/2" off now. What do I do? It seemed fine turning the crank I felt compression resistance.
@@tomgaffney740 Don't worry about the belt lines. They won't line up after you turn the crank twice. What you want to line up are the marks on the gears. The cams should be at 12 o'clock and the crank should match the mark on the engine. Time index 20:49. Let me know if that helps 👍
@ValleyMobileAutomotive hello, n thank you for reply. I agree I figure how could they line up but from instructions it seems that's what they want. So what about me turning the crank 8 times n bringing belt lines back to within 2 teeth?
@@tomgaffney740 It doesn't mean anything. If you turn the crank enough times eventually the lines will line back up. Once the belt is on and the crank is turned the lines no longer matter. They are only used for initial installation.
Ok, sounds good but what about me turning the crank 10 times, did I cause any problems at all? I mean did I cause a chance of piston valve collision?
@@tomgaffney740 not if the belt was lined up before turning the engine. You should be good 👍
Thank you very much for this terrific video guide. One of my E8 star head studs on the water pump was seized up and I managed to strip the head. Any suggestions on what to do to extract this stripped stud?
That's a tough one! Sometimes a little heat at the base of the stud helps. I hate to recommend vice grips but if it's already stripped you might get lucky.
On your video at about 1655 I see your front cam sprocket is lined up . My front is lined up but my rear sprocket is not. Should I force it to be lined by turning it clockwise to is is lined up? I had turned the lower 60 degrees counter clock wise as you did and as the instructions showed with the aisin kit. Help would be appreciated I don't won't to mess it up. Thanks
Yes you can turn the cam to line it up 👍
thanks, great videos you produce
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive
I'm a little terrified right now but also hopeful. I adjusted everything to line up but also made sure to back up the crankshaft 60°. I proceeded to remove the tensioner, tensioner pulley, and then the belt. But before I touched the belt, the back cam slipped and sprung backwards. Really hoping that having turned the crank back, saved me from misery. Almost like the engineers knew it would be under tension.
That's normal for the back cam to move. No worries 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I definitely appreciate your reassurance! I've done plenty of my own work over the years but this is the first major engine fix that I've done I'm pretty confident with the rest of the procedure after watching hours of video and researching how to do this job. I heard that the back cam could move I just didn't imagine it would be with such a sudden snap! A little more than I was expecting
@ValleyMobileAutomotive finally got around to turning it over after taking care of the throttle body, thermostat and housing and the Battery. Such relief to hear it turn over and purr instead of explode into a bunch of metal confetti lol! Now while I have the cowl all torn apart, it's time to do the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and coils. I'm sure that back one will be exceptionally fun! Anyway thanks for the vote of confidence and the great tutorial. Keep up the honest work!
Thanks for the great video! I'm following along as I'm working on my 04 Sienna. Have a question. I moved the crank about 60 deg. BTDC but I was turning it clockwise instead of counter-clockwise (my mistake), did I mess up? After the move, both cams were away from the timing marks as well. Also, when I was removing the t-belt, both cams jumped. So after I replace the crank and cam seals but before putting on the new belt, can I just turn the cams clockwise back to their timing mark? and do the same for the crank? Thanks
60 degrees before and 60 degrees after TDC the piston is in the same location in the cylinder. Just one is on it's up stroke and the other is on the down stroke. But in either direction the piston should be far enough away that the valves won't crash into it when the cam moves. So you should be fine. When it comes time to align it all for belt installation move the cams first to their timing marks then the crank back at TDC. All is good 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thanks for your reply. When I turn the cam's and then the crank to set timing, do I need to watch out for anything? I heard that if I turn them individually w/o the t-belt, I could potentially damage them. Also, is it okay to put the front of the van on jack stands with the driver side tire still on, for several weeks ? my progress is really slow. Thanks.
@@chrisken7724 It's important to turn and align the cams first while the crank is out 60 degrees then turn the crank second. I don't see an issue with leaving the vehicle on jack stands. Some might argue that it puts stress on the control arm bushings and the strut shock but I think if the suspension components are designed to carry the weight of the vehicle bouncing down the road they can handle being suspended for a time without issue. Just my thought
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thank you
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Does it matter whether I turn the cams CW or CCW ? My front cam mark is at 4 'clock, rear cam mark is at 5 'clock so smaller turns if doing CCW. Thanks.
Great video 👍 🏆 👏
1:00 this piece won’t unscrew for me. I tried using a ratchet and the whole wheel moved with it. And I used a power drill and it wouldn’t budge. Any tips
Using an impact wrench like I did is the easiest way. Otherwise you need to hold the harmonic balancer from moving. They make a tool that will hold it while you use a long breaker bar to get the bolt loose.
Your manual has nice directions and pictures, you didn't leave a link for where your manual was from?
Hey Steve, my manual is part of a professional subscription to Identifix. It's a little spendy unless this is what you do for work on a regular basis. Some other options are Alldata diy, Mitchell has a diy option or Toyota offers a 3 day subscription to everything you could ever want to know about your car including repair information and wiring diagrams.
Hi, Could you please answer this question. Two spacers fell out of the car when I was replacing my sienna water pump and the timing belt. I found them under the car. I do not know where they go. The hole is about 5/16 of an inch. You can look at my profile picture in the ABOUT section to see the picture of the spacer. Thanks!
Hey Paul. From what I can see that looks like the spacer washer for the tensioner pulley.
What headlight replacement are on this van?
Thank you sir. Perfect
@@Don-cq1no You're welcome! Glad this was helpful 🙂
What do you do when the timing belt doesn't have any marks on the belt that I purchased
@@jays9421 Before you pull off the old belt put your own marks on it where the timing gear marks are and transfer them over to the new belt.
Good well informed video!
Great tutorial, thanks alot!
Nice work. Super helpful comments add clarity. Couple of questions: 1) Which manual are you following, the official Toyota manual or an aftermarket version? 2) I get why the crank is moved 60 degrees prior to removal of the timing belt, but then how can you move the cams back to the reference position with the crank still at 60 BTDC?! Seems that would put you back in the danger zone for hitting the valves with the pistons, with the cams and the crank way out of "sync". What am I missing?
Hey thanks 👍. Good questions. This manual is from Identifix (similar to alldata). It says it's a reprint under license from Toyota Motor Sales.
Once the crank is out of the way and the belt is off you can now safely move the cams back to their timing marks. This is a controlled positioning. Once in place they are pretty stable and don't feel like they are going to move. Now the crank can be put back safely. Yes you still need to be careful moving the cams too much but they can be moved a little as needed. If you pull the timing belt off with all marks lined up you don't know if a cam is at the edge of rolling. This way you know for sure.
how do you know if you reached TDC? is it TDC on the exhaust stroke or TDC in the compression stroke?
The crank will not move unless you turn it the cams are spring loaded.and will stop at two specific spots
Great video ....thnks 👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
I replaced the timing belt but I had to force squeeze it tight. All the marks lined up but when I went to start the car it’s making this horrible squealing sound like it might be too tight or rubbing against a cover… do you what this might be? Or how to loosen the timing belt? Thanks a much!
The timing belt has an automatic tensioner. There shouldn't be any force tightening needed. Try taking off the serpentine belt then start it and see if the noise goes away.
Just wondering how long it took you to do this job? Also would you feel comfortable buying a parts kit on eBay or would you suggest buying from Toyota, I just don't want to buy low quality parts and have an issue down the road.
I wouldn’t buy a pencil off of ebay
Def don’t
the crankshaft sprocket notch has to be aligned with the dimple at 12 o clock. is that correct? not 60 degrees?
The 60* is for belt removal not installation. When installing the belt the cams and crank need to be rotated separately to put them back. Then just line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the timing gears and you should be set to go 👍
What will happen if I didn't turn back 60 degrees before I took off time belt
In reality probably nothing. Moving the crank back 60 degrees moves the piston down from top dead center. This helps prevent the valves from coming in contact with the piston head if the cam decides to spin on you. In my experience the cam is moving too slow to cause any real damage if the valves do hit. But it does give you peace of mind 🙂
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks I really appreciate your advice
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I hope that is the case. Just had the back cam smack backward before I got the belt off, it made a sickening metallic ping. however I did have the crankshaft at 60° btdc after i matched everything up to begin with. Really hope it's all good...
Why the instructions says we should turn the shaft to 60deg back and forth?
Good vid! But im not 100 i can do the timing lines and all those things you did after you took the covers off.
How do I adjust the timing on the lower crankshaft pulley if it’s stuck?? And way off.
Hey Brent, what do you mean by "stuck"?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive all good, thanks for the quick reply! I thought it was seized but I needed a large breaker bar to reset it. I’m at a point now where I can’t get the 12mm upper bolt off the Timing Belt Tensioner 😂😂
Would the same steps for timing marks be the same for a 2006 sienna 3.3?? Im about to remove the tensioner and didn't know I have to turn the crankshaft to 60 degrees counterclockwise. THANK YOU!
Yes, the same steps for 2006 👍
Does the timing belt controls thecams too?
Did you change the hytro belt tengener
Yes, the tensioner comes in the kit along with the pulleys 👍
Hi there!
There’s any way you are located near LA area? I really need your services
I think I damaged my valve doing this procedure I didn’t backed the crankshaft 60 degrees back to set the alignment on the cams and while I was moving the belt to put it in place with the marks the bank1 camshaft moved on me I thought that putting it back in place was fine but apparently after I assembled the belt and started the engine I noticed a hesitation an lack of strength on the engine specially at around 1200 rpm any thoughts??? Please help!
I would recheck your timing marks. While it's possible, it's rare to actually damage a valve when the cam slips. Also the orientation of the belt is important. Weather the arrows point towards our away from the engine.
Forgot to mention that I had to remove the cam sprockets to replace the cam seals and back plate cover.
Sorry, this video did not replace the cam seals. Just the timing belt and water pump.
Would the timing belt still be aligned correctly if the arrows are pointing in to the engine
That's a good question. If the belt is symmetrical and there is the same amount of teeth between the cam markings and the crank marking then it should be in time regardless of if the arrows are pointing in or out. Some belts are directional but I'm not sure about this one.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive yea even though I put the belt back wards I got all the marks to line up with eachother perfectly
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive so I got it back on and turned on the engine. There is a crankshaft code. And it kind of sounds weird like little rattling or ticking. But I did remove the intake to replace the top and bottom gaskets and I haven't put back the back brakets to I dont know if its those making noise or its the motor.
@@Nas678 what's the code number? Is it crank sensor performance or cam crank correlation?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive its code p0018 crank camshaft correlation. So I need to flip the belt around then
I can't get the tensioner to press in far enough to get a pin in the holes
I see your video on UA-cam thank you so much..and I need your help I don’t know what going on my power steering wheel fluid reservoir overflowing out I think not pump …need your help my car Toyota sienna 06 thank you
Is that engine the same engine as the 2006 Lexus RX330???
Yes, it's the same engine. I'm not 100% sure if all the torque specs are the exact same so you might want to double check those. But the procedure should be very similar to this video.
A local reputable shop in Washington State told me $1300 for this job all in. Does that sound reasonable?
If they are replacing the water pump as well then $1,300 is a good fair price here in Washington.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive they’re doing the timing belt, water pump, and whatever else comes in that kit for the timing belt. Also includes the coolant and diagnoses of the issue since I had it towed there. I thought it was a fair price I’ve had friends tell me it was a good deal. Thanks for the reply. Enjoyed your video.
Do you think a normal guy with not a lot of experience can do this? What kind of tools do I need?
Thank you.
Hi Robert, thank you for sharing how to do the timing belt and water pump. I'm in the process of doing mine but I'm a little scared to fuck it but I'm sure I will go for it. Would you share the PDF instructions? Thanks again
Hey Adido, it's a big project for sure. I've done a lot of timing belts over the years and I still get that nervous feeling starting it back up for the first time. Unfortunately I can't share the manual documents. Hopefully there is enough information in the video. If you have any questions feel free to send them in the comments 👍
Thank you
The arrow in the belt goes in or out
I cannot see the timing mark at the rear!! Help
@@bhadz100 You might try using a small mirror 👍
My lines do not line up on the crank. They line up with the cams
Everything needs to line up. Double check that the belt is oriented correctly and that you are matching up the correct lines. If needed take the belt off and start over. You can move the crank a little to get it to line up. Or move the cams, whichever is easier. This is an interference engine so damage can occur if your timing is off.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I went and got a gates belt. Everything on that belt lined up.
New problem. I start the car starts fine. I shut it and go to start, it just cranks. I keep cranking to start, eventually it starts but I get a bank 2' p0341 code. As the car runs the idle gets worse and car is shaking. Obviously it's a timing issue, how do I correct it. I double checked to make sure everything was like up
@@Jame6999 Unfortunately you have to take the belt off and reset the timing. There was another comment similar to yours and they said they accidentally had the belt turned around facing the wrong direction. Not sure if that's what happened but it is something that can happen.
The arrows on the belt are installed pointing towards the passenger. Or from if the engine. Am I correct?
@@Jame6999 That should be correct. Pull the timing covers off and double check all the marks on the cam and crank are in the right spots (don't worry about the lines on the belt at this point). You may be a tooth off?
Quick questions
How much a technician usually charge? including cam seals and ckank seal, Just to have an 💡idea
Ballpark around $900 give or take. It depends on the local economy.
I was going to ask the same question. I also need the spark plugs changed, so figured I would do it all at the same time
I wish you a health!
@@MrDirector88 Thank you 🙂
Any of you Saturday mechanics try it?
Lots of techs drop the engine for this type of job 👀
Excelente muchas Gracias
De nada 👍