Hey Everyone! Just wanted to reach out to my viewers and ask what yall did not enjoy about this video? It has received a large amount of dislikes, so I would like to know what I can improve on. Thanks!
People can’t appreciate the amount of preparation and work that goes into these videos , you showed the basic disassembly and re-assembly with adjustments , good job ! most who perform this should know to lube all pivot and contact points with the proper lubricants when assembling . 👍
Good video Newman, I just found your you tube channel or I would have been watching a long time ago. Everything was spot on, you got dislikes because people are just haters. Maybe if they knew who you are or what you do for a living, they wouldn’t be haters and you would get more “respect” from the know it all air gunners out there! Bahahaaa! Have a good one bud! Kevin (Stoti)
910 Airgun Tuning and Repairs Yeah man, I never touched the hex screw behind the trigger because Ernest said not to. What a difference that makes after adjusting the 1st and 2nd stage. Gets rid of that last little bit of creep. Best trigger pull on either of my Impacts. You da man!
Thanks for the video. It would be useful to know, when you say that your trigger is "aftermarket or modified", what you have done to it, and how much heavier it was from the factory? I have acquired a pre-owned impact and -having cleaned a bunch of Loctite off the screws and investigated the adjustment range-, I find that my trigger behaves just like yours: i.e. adjusting the 2nd stage screw makes almost no difference, except at the point where it stops the trigger working at all; adjusting the spring screw makes no perceptible difference; and the only way to add "weight" is either to increase the 1st stage travel, which soon makes the trigger too creepy, or to get the trigger shoe as close to the trigger bar as possible, effectively shortening the trigger post so as to minimise the leverage it exerts on the trigger bar. There seems to be no way to get above 1 lb, which I still consider a very light pull. In light of this, can you tell me what parts have you been modified to reduce the pull weight to this 3-barely 13 oz range? Ironically, I'd like to know so I can put some unmodified/standard ones in my rifle and get MORE pull weight for safer hunting use. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! My main modification is polishing the surfaces of the trigger wheel and trigger sear. I believe I still had the factory trigger spring in this rifle. From the factory, the max weight is about as you say, 16oz. For FX, that is consider a heavy trigger, as most come tuned to around 10-12oz from the factory, with the ability to go lower. Most of the higher-end PCP's are the same way, with lighter triggers. There is no safety concern of the trigger accidentally going off in the case accidentally bumping or dropping the rifle, unless you have the trigger tuned below 3oz, which is it not really made to go that low.
well the video was just fine. but the problem i have is my safety doesn't work. the trigger pull is 1.4 pound pull. do you think that is too light? thank you for your time.
Great channel you have! I have a Maverick .30 Sniper. Trigger pull seems a little heavy for my liking. How do I lighten the pull? I don't have a trigger pull gauge yet; will get one soon. Thx. subscribed.
You will need to remove the rifle from the stock. On the rear action, you will see where the trigger linkage connects. The most forward screw is your first stage travel, the second screw is the second stage travel/weight. Hope this helps!
Hello Sir I have 2 impacts and I see you have a Impact X model you did alot of Polishing on parts on it looks good. Do you mind me asking you put like a early model Power plenum on it I see instead of the new models. Where did you get that and was there a big improvement of power than stock. The air chamber on the back. Where did you acquire it and what was tge price and was there a difference could you get better shot count and didn't have to make the gun labor
The external plenum is for more power rather than better shot count. I installed it my self, given to me by Ernest for testing before he released the design to the public. I have a few in stock that I install on to rifles, but with the FX Power Plenum, they are nearly obsolete. Nearly, because the external plenum still provides a higher max power than the FX Power Plenum version, but not the shot count. Also, the external plenum wears out the rifle very fast.
When properly tuned with the other two stages, yes. It can determine how much the trigger springs down when you first cock the rifle, and if you decide to let go of a first stage pull (and not go to second stage).
The M3 has a heavier trigger spring to give the trigger a more crisp and solid break without adjustment. Unfortunately this results in a heavier trigger. It is difficult to modify the trigger spring and still have the proper settings. At most, I would say you could remove one coil from the trigger spring, but that is speculation. I am currently looking for a spring with different dimensions that will still provide proper trigger response while being lighter. 👍
Hi n thanks for the tips,,, I have seen the different cocking block on ur fx, is that custom made coz I’m having issues in my fix impact, i opened it and beneath the block there is the small screw under the block n I saw it’s not strong enough it’s a bit bent ., if your block is modified or you can make one I would like to order one or maybe you can advise for a better solution.?
Hey! I simply polished my block down to the bare metal, nothing else fancy. The new MK2 blocks have a reinforced M4 sized hammer pin, which is stronger. If your pins is bent, it can only be caused by firing the rifle without the lever pushed all the way forward. A bent pin will eventually lead to being unable to cock the rifle. I recommend purchasing a mk2 reloading block from your local FX distributor.
Thanks a lot for your videos, they are always very informative and interesting. I have an FX Impact MkII newly bought and I tried to slightly reduce the "pull pressure" on its trigger but I found that it comes heavily lock tite-ed from the factory. I couldn't turn the 2mm allen screw for 2nd stage pull pressure and I was not prepared to put excessive force in turning the allen key. Please could you help and advise? Many thanks.
Loctite's worst enemy is heat 😉 by this I mean is remove the trigger from the gun and apply heat to the second stage screw (dont burn yourself), and it should turn loose. That's the case with anything loctite, it will turn back to liquid under heat.
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs Thank you very much for your prompt response, I am petrified about tinkering with my rifle (I have 7 FX rifles) and the thought of removing the trigger assembly would scare me to death!! But I'm sure you're right with your advice about getting it freed from loctite. Would you use a propane torch or a hair dryer set on high heat? Keep safe and well.
I usually use a Propane torch with a fine tip nozzle for a small direct flame, so you don't put heat where you don't want it, and most loctite melting points are close to 200F degrees I believe
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs Many thanks, I'll try your method when I have a go at doing this trigger adjustment. I wonder if you have produced a video showing the whole procedure for swapping an STX barrel for a slug liner. I've just received my slug liner (a 700mm length one to replace my 700mm STX pellet liner in an FX IMPACT MkII) and would really welcome a tutorial video on how this is done. Many folk, like me, have been waiting for these slug liner A replacements for many months and FX have finally caught up with demand in the UK. Any guidance you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Hopefully someone can help me out? I'm having issues with my trigger assembly.. Somehow the sear isn't sitting ontop of the wheel when I try to pull the handle back it doesn't hold itself back. With a little bit of pressure on the sear it seats properly. What went wrong?
Hey Travis, do you have all stock components in the rifle? I have seen this when the hammer cannot pull back enough due to an oversized hammerweight. If all factory original, then your trigger wheel may be slightly too large, by about 0.01-0.02mm (1 to 2 Hundredths of a millimeter).
910 Airgun Tuning and Repairs I have all stock parts except for a double bottle adapter.. And haven't messed with the trigger adjustment until the handle didn't want to pull back all the way.. The sear just isn't lifting high enough to sit untop of the wheel like it used to.
I would like to see the trigger pull weight when the rifle is assembled and you are not holding the lever back as you are taking tension of the sear by holding it back, therefore it may be giving a lighter reading on the gauge
True, it may be lowering the weight a little bit. I hold the lever very lightly most of the time when it is back, as you can tell by my hand slipping and letting the lever go. (No worries this is my personal gun 🤣). I will keep the rifle intact and not hold the lever back in the formal video down the line. 👍 thanks for the feedback, I truly appreciate it!
This trigger can never work like it is intended !! The second stage ball schould touch the pin at the right side prior to firing or there is no second stage. Turned out completely like your trigger is, the ball with spring can never reach the pin. So in the first stage you should feel the resistance of the large spring, then in the end of that first stage you should feel the ball touching the right side pin and then you should have adjusted that ball/spring screw so that you only pull a little further to fire. I must say that this trigger will never be as smooth as some people want it without some changes and the stiffness of the ball spring is the main cause but overal the trigger it ok however i had lots better triggers in lots cheaper pcp's.
Actually as you described is exactly how the trigger functions. 99% of the time the trigger does have a very clean/crisp break after 2nd stage, if you have it set up at a 2 stage trigger. I agree the ball bear spring can be a little stiff at times, but I have made FX Sweden aware of this and they are looking into solutions, as they always do.
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs why do you not use the second stage then ? Ok it could be softer when you make the first stage verry short and just pull a little further but this seems not so safe to me...
Seems to me you just made it more confusing. Use an unmodified trigger. Show how to lighten it. Not kn keep going back and forth. Still good video just clear as mud.
I agree that it made the trigger different from a stock trigger, but this video is more demonstrating the overall methods and troubleshooting certain situations. Thanks for the feedback!
I was directing it towards the negative feedback you said you had received. I personally thank you for the time & effort you put into making a informative video that helped me with my impact 👍👍
Hey Everyone! Just wanted to reach out to my viewers and ask what yall did not enjoy about this video? It has received a large amount of dislikes, so I would like to know what I can improve on. Thanks!
910 Airgun Tuning and Repairs hi, im also wondering about the dislikes. I really like your content, keep up the great work! 👍🏻👍🏻
People can’t appreciate the amount of preparation and work that goes into these videos , you showed the basic disassembly and re-assembly with adjustments , good job ! most who perform this should know to lube all pivot and contact points with the proper lubricants when assembling . 👍
Good video Newman, I just found your you tube channel or I would have been watching a long time ago. Everything was spot on, you got dislikes because people are just haters. Maybe if they knew who you are or what you do for a living, they wouldn’t be haters and you would get more “respect” from the know it all air gunners out there! Bahahaaa! Have a good one bud! Kevin (Stoti)
Stoti! Thanks for the comment, I truly appreciate it! Glad you found the channel, hopefully more of the videos can help out.
910 Airgun Tuning and Repairs Yeah man, I never touched the hex screw behind the trigger because Ernest said not to. What a difference that makes after adjusting the 1st and 2nd stage. Gets rid of that last little bit of creep. Best trigger pull on either of my Impacts. You da man!
Sweeeet! Thanks again for another awesome video Newman.
If I just want to lighten trigger a little bit do I really have to go through all that
Thanks for the video. It would be useful to know, when you say that your trigger is "aftermarket or modified", what you have done to it, and how much heavier it was from the factory?
I have acquired a pre-owned impact and -having cleaned a bunch of Loctite off the screws and investigated the adjustment range-, I find that my trigger behaves just like yours: i.e. adjusting the 2nd stage screw makes almost no difference, except at the point where it stops the trigger working at all; adjusting the spring screw makes no perceptible difference; and the only way to add "weight" is either to increase the 1st stage travel, which soon makes the trigger too creepy, or to get the trigger shoe as close to the trigger bar as possible, effectively shortening the trigger post so as to minimise the leverage it exerts on the trigger bar. There seems to be no way to get above 1 lb, which I still consider a very light pull.
In light of this, can you tell me what parts have you been modified to reduce the pull weight to this 3-barely 13 oz range? Ironically, I'd like to know so I can put some unmodified/standard ones in my rifle and get MORE pull weight for safer hunting use. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! My main modification is polishing the surfaces of the trigger wheel and trigger sear. I believe I still had the factory trigger spring in this rifle.
From the factory, the max weight is about as you say, 16oz. For FX, that is consider a heavy trigger, as most come tuned to around 10-12oz from the factory, with the ability to go lower. Most of the higher-end PCP's are the same way, with lighter triggers.
There is no safety concern of the trigger accidentally going off in the case accidentally bumping or dropping the rifle, unless you have the trigger tuned below 3oz, which is it not really made to go that low.
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs Thanks for your reply.
well the video was just fine. but the problem i have is my safety doesn't work. the trigger pull is 1.4 pound pull. do you think that is too light? thank you for your time.
I am having the same issue with mine the 2nd stage not returning. Still need to mess with it doesn’t seem as crisp
Great info thanks for taking time to make these videos
My pleasure!
Assuming same trigger on other FX guns ? I have w panthera compact.
I have a video for the FX Panthera / Dynamic now 👍😁
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs yea I watched them all haha
Great channel you have! I have a Maverick .30 Sniper. Trigger pull seems a little heavy for my liking. How do I lighten the pull? I don't have a trigger pull gauge yet; will get one soon. Thx. subscribed.
You will need to remove the rifle from the stock. On the rear action, you will see where the trigger linkage connects. The most forward screw is your first stage travel, the second screw is the second stage travel/weight. Hope this helps!
Hello Sir I have 2 impacts and I see you have a Impact X model you did alot of Polishing on parts on it looks good. Do you mind me asking you put like a early model Power plenum on it I see instead of the new models. Where did you get that and was there a big improvement of power than stock. The air chamber on the back. Where did you acquire it and what was tge price and was there a difference could you get better shot count and didn't have to make the gun labor
The external plenum is for more power rather than better shot count. I installed it my self, given to me by Ernest for testing before he released the design to the public. I have a few in stock that I install on to rifles, but with the FX Power Plenum, they are nearly obsolete. Nearly, because the external plenum still provides a higher max power than the FX Power Plenum version, but not the shot count. Also, the external plenum wears out the rifle very fast.
I can't get mine to go into safety, so thanks for the video I am sure I will be able to fix that problem now much appreciated your video.
The screw with the spring does that have any effect on let off weight. Thanks
When properly tuned with the other two stages, yes. It can determine how much the trigger springs down when you first cock the rifle, and if you decide to let go of a first stage pull (and not go to second stage).
Does this method apply to the M3 as well? I can’t get it below 1 pound 11 oz….
The M3 has a heavier trigger spring to give the trigger a more crisp and solid break without adjustment. Unfortunately this results in a heavier trigger. It is difficult to modify the trigger spring and still have the proper settings. At most, I would say you could remove one coil from the trigger spring, but that is speculation. I am currently looking for a spring with different dimensions that will still provide proper trigger response while being lighter. 👍
The video is GREAT!!!
Hi n thanks for the tips,,, I have seen the different cocking block on ur fx, is that custom made coz I’m having issues in my fix impact, i opened it and beneath the block there is the small screw under the block n I saw it’s not strong enough it’s a bit bent ., if your block is modified or you can make one I would like to order one or maybe you can advise for a better solution.?
Hey! I simply polished my block down to the bare metal, nothing else fancy. The new MK2 blocks have a reinforced M4 sized hammer pin, which is stronger. If your pins is bent, it can only be caused by firing the rifle without the lever pushed all the way forward. A bent pin will eventually lead to being unable to cock the rifle. I recommend purchasing a mk2 reloading block from your local FX distributor.
good stuff right there!! thanks for another demo!!
Thanks Newman thanks man!!!
Thanks a lot for your videos, they are always very informative and interesting. I have an FX Impact MkII newly bought and I tried to slightly reduce the "pull pressure" on its trigger but I found that it comes heavily lock tite-ed from the factory. I couldn't turn the 2mm allen screw for 2nd stage pull pressure and I was not prepared to put excessive force in turning the allen key. Please could you help and advise? Many thanks.
Loctite's worst enemy is heat 😉 by this I mean is remove the trigger from the gun and apply heat to the second stage screw (dont burn yourself), and it should turn loose. That's the case with anything loctite, it will turn back to liquid under heat.
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs Thank you very much for your prompt response, I am petrified about tinkering with my rifle (I have 7 FX rifles) and the thought of removing the trigger assembly would scare me to death!! But I'm sure you're right with your advice about getting it freed from loctite. Would you use a propane torch or a hair dryer set on high heat? Keep safe and well.
I usually use a Propane torch with a fine tip nozzle for a small direct flame, so you don't put heat where you don't want it, and most loctite melting points are close to 200F degrees I believe
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs Many thanks, I'll try your method when I have a go at doing this trigger adjustment. I wonder if you have produced a video showing the whole procedure for swapping an STX barrel for a slug liner. I've just received my slug liner (a 700mm length one to replace my 700mm STX pellet liner in an FX IMPACT MkII) and would really welcome a tutorial video on how this is done. Many folk, like me, have been waiting for these slug liner A replacements for many months and FX have finally caught up with demand in the UK. Any guidance you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
I sure did make a video, but just about general liner removal/installation. All liners install the same. ua-cam.com/video/7ZqWIEyOijY/v-deo.html
never heard before about 1.27mm allen key
Yep! It's an available size! 1.3mm typically works too
i should have watched a little longer you might have answered my question. thanks again.
Hopefully someone can help me out? I'm having issues with my trigger assembly.. Somehow the sear isn't sitting ontop of the wheel when I try to pull the handle back it doesn't hold itself back. With a little bit of pressure on the sear it seats properly. What went wrong?
Hey Travis, do you have all stock components in the rifle? I have seen this when the hammer cannot pull back enough due to an oversized hammerweight. If all factory original, then your trigger wheel may be slightly too large, by about 0.01-0.02mm (1 to 2 Hundredths of a millimeter).
910 Airgun Tuning and Repairs I have all stock parts except for a double bottle adapter.. And haven't messed with the trigger adjustment until the handle didn't want to pull back all the way.. The sear just isn't lifting high enough to sit untop of the wheel like it used to.
910 Airgun Tuning and Repairs check IG.. Thnx
Maaantaap om...
I would like to see the trigger pull weight when the rifle is assembled and you are not holding the lever back as you are taking tension of the sear by holding it back, therefore it may be giving a lighter reading on the gauge
True, it may be lowering the weight a little bit. I hold the lever very lightly most of the time when it is back, as you can tell by my hand slipping and letting the lever go. (No worries this is my personal gun 🤣). I will keep the rifle intact and not hold the lever back in the formal video down the line. 👍 thanks for the feedback, I truly appreciate it!
I'm wondering why he didn't clean the parts before installing them.
This is my personal "abuse" gun, no need for cleaning 🤣 I only use this rifle to test out new modifications, it is not an every day rifle
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs ... Abuse gun? Not everyone has a 2000 .00 abuse gun but I guess I should have known that.
This trigger can never work like it is intended !! The second stage ball schould touch the pin at the right side prior to firing or there is no second stage. Turned out completely like your trigger is, the ball with spring can never reach the pin. So in the first stage you should feel the resistance of the large spring, then in the end of that first stage you should feel the ball touching the right side pin and then you should have adjusted that ball/spring screw so that you only pull a little further to fire. I must say that this trigger will never be as smooth as some people want it without some changes and the stiffness of the ball spring is the main cause but overal the trigger it ok however i had lots better triggers in lots cheaper pcp's.
Actually as you described is exactly how the trigger functions. 99% of the time the trigger does have a very clean/crisp break after 2nd stage, if you have it set up at a 2 stage trigger. I agree the ball bear spring can be a little stiff at times, but I have made FX Sweden aware of this and they are looking into solutions, as they always do.
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs why do you not use the second stage then ? Ok it could be softer when you make the first stage verry short and just pull a little further but this seems not so safe to me...
doesn't seem to have a nice solid stop
It does when you tune it to have one 👍 also, this trigger has been modified, so it does not work the same as a factory trigger
@@910AirgunTuningandRepairs gave mine a tweek after watching you do yours
Seems to me you just made it more confusing. Use an unmodified trigger. Show how to lighten it. Not kn keep going back and forth. Still good video just clear as mud.
I agree that it made the trigger different from a stock trigger, but this video is more demonstrating the overall methods and troubleshooting certain situations. Thanks for the feedback!
They probably don’t own an impact !!!
Not sure who you are directing this towards exactly, but if towards me, I explain in the video this is my personal Impact with a modified trigger. 👍
I was directing it towards the negative feedback you said you had received. I personally thank you for the time & effort you put into making a informative video that helped me with my impact 👍👍
Oh gotcha! It is my pleasure to be able to provide information and assist the community 😁 Thank you for watching!!
For a $2000 air rifle, the fx trigger is sucks