Fortress Compressor and My DIY Air Dryer System
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- I talk about my Fortress Air Compressor, some detail of how I built my copper compressed air dryer and a the basic layout of my overall system.
Stuff for my shop:
Machines:
Miter Saw: amzn.to/3i1XLZh
Band Saw: amzn.to/2yts75W
Sander: amzn.to/2Tx8WPR
Drill Press: amzn.to/31bAP2X
Table Saw: amzn.to/2XeJNeD
Grinder: amzn.to/2X0F2pv
Wet/Vac: amzn.to/3cZcORr
Dust Deputy: amzn.to/317INdJ
Dust collection hose: amzn.to/2XEPRxf
Hose clamps: amzn.to/2DONNvu
Misc.
Magnetic Light: amzn.to/2AZ87ZZ
LED Shop lights: amzn.to/3edWFYx
Remote for Shop Vac: amzn.to/2Xmmkrk
Wheels for implement dolly: amzn.to/2WWb3z0
Hooks: amzn.to/2TzxxDE
Retractable Cord: amzn.to/2WZVuGD
Pocket Screw Jig: amzn.to/2XuJqMo
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
One way to simplify the tops of the loops is to use a street 90 degree elbow that fits directly into the regular 90, eliminating the small piece of pipe and one solder joint.
I just made a similar air dryer! It seems to work great. Already have an auto drain setup for the tank.
I turned mine 90 degrees and have just one drain and plumbed it outside. My air is super dry now,the plasma cutter is happy!
Thanks!
Oiless means Teflon Coated Rings. They typically are not long lifed. I own a small 15 Gal one myself but my expectations are real. I also have an 80 Gallon one I bought used made in 1995 and it still works AWESOMELY. The ones made today fail after 3-5 years it seems. Especially Ingersoll-Rand that used to be a very high standard company, not so much anymore.
Outstanding job using the T as a turbulence change of air direction. It helps remove the Water vapor.
Thanks!
I have an oil-free Porter Cable upright 175 PSI that is 25 years old. It saw limited use for some of that time but is used daily now.
Very clean build
Thanks!
🔥🔥 that air compressor is very small. I always hated those small type of gauges to my air. Compressor is 60 gallons 2 stage. I put a digital hourmeter on it so I know how long I’ve been using it. I also put an air pressure gauge on it goes up to 200 psi in the air pressure gauge is 6 inches from the left to the right that’s how big the air pressure gauge is that way I don’t have to go walk across the garage to look at a small one and a half inch air pressure gauge which is insane. 🔥🔥
Thanks for sharing
So much expense & time to buy copper tubes & fittings, then time & skill & time to properly solder each tube junction. A tube & fin aftercooler like a Derale 15300 or an automotive AC condenser plumbed directly from the pump outlet with a small box fan blowing directly thru the coolers fins would be simpler, cheaper & more efficient than copper tubes. See (on UA-cam) a hobby sized, nearly passive cooler system designed by engineer Doug Kronemeyer, DIY #9 (3 videos), that is so good/efficient that it rivals the performance of a refrigerated cooler system! It will remove so much water from your compressed air, there will be no water in your tank! Check it out!
Well, your probably right but still, it was a pretty cool project. :)
The air now goes from pump/compresser into the tank and then through your dryer correct? You should have done it the other way around. pump>dryer>tank. Because now you still have water sitting in your tank rusting out the bottom. If you would want to keep your compressor/tank combo mobile you could use quick connects to take the dryer out from inbetween the pump and tank.
I think your right and I will probably do that eventually... Thanks!
Nice looking shop. Clean and orderly.
Thanks!
Not being funny but that dryer it’s pretty much useless in this setup, the ideea is to catch the water before getting into the air tank, not after, the hot air that leaves the air pump needs to be cooled off before hitting the tank so you avoid condensation, to be effective you need to bypass the air tank intake trough the air drier
Exactly this, right now he has an expensive looking wall ornament and a pressure vessel that probably doesnt get checked and is slowly turning into a bomb.
Just finished my system. Instead of coming out of the tank to the system. I mine comes out of the pump through the system and into the tank. That way it keeps the moisture out of the tank
I'm guessing that will work better than mine. Good job!
Glad you got it put together & going. Yeah, most people soldering for the first time get a bit out of line. You will get better.
Hello Hoot, the problem I have right now is that I am trying to learn to many new things all at the same time. Soldering, arc welding, MIG welding, TIG welding, plasma cutting, freeze drying, chicken coop construction, how to take care of chickens, ground mount solar and more... My head is going to explode! :)
If this compressor system was permanently installed and not a mobile system, how about putting 100 ft of coiled copper tubing around the perimeter of the shop.
I'm betting after 100 ft, any hot moist air will be pouring out of the pipe into a valve at the lowest point of the system.
The pipe could go up to the ceiling and around the perimeter of the room, and then drop down to a valve that would release the water.
I suppose you can do it like this video for the pipe goes up and down and up and down with lots of fittings and incurring a lot of expense.
I'm sure a roll of copper pipe would be a lot less expensive and have the same effect.
Interesting idea. Try it and send us the link to the video. :)
Beautiful work brother. You work is always fantastic. Keep it up and have a bless day.
Thanks!
9:25 PERFECT
Union to copper between filter and hose or another small hose . Or you can build a bypass
Thanks!
Well thought out job, looks very professional. Thks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I had a compressor of that magnitude several years ago and I couldn’t wait to get rid of it because it made a lot of noise and probably draws just as much amperage as my new compressor that I’ve got now that’s a 60 gallon two-stage
This one has worked really good for me but I am a light user. If your using it every day, I would up the game. It really depends on the individual needs.
Clean copper,
Flux parts,
Fit parts,
Wipe off excess flux,
Bend solder to 3/4” length per 3/4” pipe joint.
Bend 1/2” of solder for each 1/2” joint.
Solder, wipe clean with a dry rag.
Place heat on bottom and solder on top after plenty of heat. The heat will suck the solder into the joint.
Good summary. Thanks!
Looks good
Thanks!
I like your shop
I love working in this shop and I should have built it 20 years ago! Thanks!
nice job really nice shop
Thanks 👍
y ididnt u just put a union on the regualtor part instead of changing everything
Well, I guess I just didn't think of that... :)
That's a nice setup. Does having in that other room reduce the noise much in the rest of the shop?
Yes, that was one of the reasons I put the compressor and the shop vac in that room.
Dang nabbit BAU BAU is. I love da setup!!
Thanks!
My thought would have been 2 flex lines and mount filter lower, it's been 2 years how is everything doing
After 2 years I can honestly say that it really "LOOKS" great! :)
@Homestead Engineering I showed it to my nephew. Have a great weekend ( i fixed my spelling ) 😅
Did anyone ever use refrigeration copper y bends instead of 90s and tees to make a compressor air dryer just wondering if it would work
Not occasionally, regularly open the valves.
Good advice. Thanks!
At least you didn’t decide to do the attic piping in July 😅
Hello Jerry, that would have been pretty hot for sure. I did it in October and it was still over 100 up there. :)
@@HomesteadEngineering I remember that you followed Donald the webcajun on UA-cam. If you followed his forum there was a member named tbird. Saw that he passed away last week
@@jerryanderson9502 I am so sorry to hear that. I did follow Donald's channel and he is the reason I started a garden. At least we still have his videos to continue to learn from and to remember him by. Thanks
Nice
Thanks!
Very nice job. I bet that was a ding in the wallet.
It cost more than I thought it would. Its pretty cool but I don't know if I would do it again. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering Yeah, I priced it out today at HD, I decided to get the aluminum stuff on Amazon.
Great video. Unrelated, but was your solar build series you "learning for the first time" too? Cause you seem to do bloody good out of the box lol. Cheers.
TechStories79, yes, the solar was the first time as well. I can attribute this to three things:
1. I am older and I have done hundreds of projects from A-Z
2. I do a lot of research and planning before I start (over planner)
3. I am not afraid to fail
I did finally figure out soldering right at the end of the project. I needed a larger flame, a better angle and holding the tip of the hottest part of flame right at the material. That makes it heat much faster and just flows right in cleanly. The next one will be better. Thanks!
What type of fitting are you using at the compressor, a 1/4 to 1/2?
I think this one: amzn.to/3p44XIw
@@HomesteadEngineering thanks, just got the same compressor today and want to run 1/2 in hose but the coupling on the Fortress is 1/4. Was wondering if I needed to change anything. Nice job on your setup!
Is he in Florida?
Yes
Did you use type M or L pipe?
Thanks, I plan to use type M and thought I would check. The info I seen varies, but Type M seems to be good up to at least 170psi. At least that is what the internet tells me.
@@KMLTimesTwo Type L is slightly more expensive but has thicker walls and is good for 200 PSI at least. My compressor outputs 175 so I used type L. If you are only using 150 or less type M would suffice
@@anonimous2451 Thanks. I forgot what I used....but I built mine just after I posted this. It is working great so far. thanks for the video
What's the part number to your ball valves with the blue handles?
Something like this: www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-Brass-1-2-in-Copper-Sweat-Ball-Valve/1000242263
@@HomesteadEngineering so with that ball valve you recommended how do I attach that to 3/4 tubing. It fits loosely in the 3/4 copper tube. Is there a special copper fitting I need to attach the ball valve? I dont think I can braze copper/brass togeather
@@ddemier I used a T with a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" openings shown in the video. The 1/2" opening has a 1/2" pipe and that connects to the valve. (3:57) Note: This is just how I did it and I am not recommending anything in particular, I am just showing you what I did. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering did you solder/braze the joint? Valve to copper tubing
@@ddemier Yes, I did @ 3:00
What size pipe do you use buddy?
3/4"
@@HomesteadEngineering what is thickness of your pipe?
@@minkbandem8093Enough!
Its funny when i hear people say oiless, and then maintenance-free right after it. As if changing the oil of a compressor is not a 5 minutes task done every 5 to 10 years on a hobbyist shop.
Well Rolando, that may be true but it is still oil less and maintenance free.
Are you filming with a go pro? Weird wide angle..
Yes, I use a GoPro for a lot of the video. I think some folks really have a problem with the fisheye, for some reason, where others don't even notice it.
@@HomesteadEngineering it’s strange, it feels like you can’t really see what’s going on..
Wouldn't it be cheaper to but an air dryer instead of all that coper pipe
That would probably be a much more cost effective solution but this is pretty cool. :)
Not sure how that copper pipe is to act as a condenser, the air would need to be hotter than the copper. As is, the air after the regulator will be cooler than ambient.
Are you saying I should remove the regulator at the tank?
WOW , THATS A BIG PIPE SYSTEM ! hold the heat on the pipe until it sucks the solder into the pipe joint ! u could have used pvc ! very nice job ! Are you going to be doing a lot of painting ? i ask because of the elegaint dryer ?
I am planning to use if for my plasma cutter and they don't like water in the lines. I may use it for some spray painting as well. I would definitely not use PVC on a compressed air system because of the way that it can shatter when it fails. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering pvc works fine i have and know a bunch that have
0 leaks
I think I had one... Not bad for a beginner. :)
Very expensive!
Yes, but it looks great! :)
Remember to bleed your tank from time to time.
Yep, I actually just drained it about an hour ago. :)
May I ask why you have to bleed the tank please?
@@jwsolarusa There is a valve at the bottom of the tank. It gets the water out of the tank.
@@jwsolarusa because compressed air settles water out into the tank, without draining the water out, it will rust out the compressor tank bottom.
@@akbychoice
Thanks
Worthless project sorry
Well, You have to admit, It looks REALLY cool! :)
That was stupid, why didn't you use just hoses on both sides of the regulator?
Yep, that probably would have worked....
Nice
Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering may I ask you how much is the pressure drop because of the elements of the setup?? I want to do something similar but have more that 50 feet of tube ( so to avoid noise), I know that with fluids the losses are proportional to the cinematic energy, in gases I really don't know if applicable, I will have to check the fluid mechanics books.
Or maybe yes, but the continuity equation is not applicable?
@@andreselias5863 I don't think there would be any static drop in pressure but as soon as you open up at the far end your going to get a pretty quick drop. I would imagine that it is proportional to the volume of air that you let out. As a ball park estimate, I would imagine a 5-10% drop if you were to air up a tire. As the tire inflates the pressure will rise to the pressure set at the regulator. That's just my gut guess, I'll have to do an experiment and get back to you. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering yes I mainly want to isolate the noise of the compressor from the garage and the house. In that paper I have found there are some very good expressions that are basically the classic ones for flow in tubes. Thanks for the reply and love the content.