Just finished mine last night...pipe, tools, and drain/filter was about $500 all in. Also...I put a dead battery in my smoke detector to make sure I did everything the same way you did! ;). Thanks a million for the materials list and video...made it easier.
FABULOUS!!! Thank you so much, Sir, for the incredible detail to show those who are not as familiar with the workings, and construction of such a necessary component for anyone's pneumatic system, where a water-tainted airflow is literally disaster; auto and aircraft painting, sandblasting, et al. So kind and generous of you to supply this tutelage! Bless you. I am as deaf as a snake, and so I missed the screaming of your smoke detector, but the previous critic didn't realize that it was the soldering operation that triggered that alarm. The one in my shop goes off all the time, and I CAN hear it! Thank you for sharing you great intellect.
Change the battery in your smoke detector!!! Thought one of mine had decided to go bad and walked through the house trying to figure it out before I realized it was in the recording.
OK... Now that is funny! I just recently patched and repainted the wall that the smoke detector is on and decided to replace the whole unit. It ate batteries monthly. The new one is working perfectly. Still smiling!
I just changed the battery in one detector this week so I believed that another could be going out soon. When my dog heard the beep he looked at me and wanted to bark, so I also walked around trying to find the beep but it never came back. Sat back down at the computer and saw the annotation saying you replaced the detector; rewound the video and sure enough heard the same sound & my dog heard it too and came running. Guess he'll be a good secondary alarm if I don't hear the first!
Great presentation. One note, you need to change the straps that hold the pipe to the wall. It looks like you used steel straps used for electric conduit. Long term contact between dissimilar metals, will result in galvanic corrosion. You need to replace the straps with copper or plastic straps/pipe holders found in the plumbing dept.
@@mrtechnophile3483 Unless it’s in a vacuum or something, the moisture in the air will be enough to cause a problem. An air conditioned space will gain you a few years but that’s not enough, especially considering the cost of copper these days.
Built this system for my compressor. Glad I purchased the PneumaticPlus units that were recommended. They look really solid. This cooler in 2020 cost me about $500 to build. About 1/2 was on the dryer/filter/regulator and auto drain unit. The rest was all the plumping material. I didn’t purchase gas for soldering because I had that in my garage. I can’t recall if he specified the copper pipe wall thickness, but I bought L-series that has a thicker wall thickness. If you made it from M-series the price would drop about $40. I don’t think you can build it with 3 10ft length. Cuts just don’t workout. So, I purchase 4 10ft and have leftovers. Ended up buying the container of 90 elbows and T’s. If you bought them individually you paid almost as much for halve as many. I took my time and pressure checked. So, it is an 8 hour project. To pressure check, solder end caps over the outlets and pressurize the unit on the inlet side. Held 120 psi without any problems. My compressor and the 1/4 in supply line might have to be upgraded to something that can deliver higher cubic feet a minute.
Useful ideas there. I'm trawling youtube for all the best ideas from everyone's systems, then finally put my own together. For my purposes, I'll put my cooler/condensate trap between the compressor and the main receiver to keep the water out and stop it rusting.
You are more than welcome. It was worth the time it tool to document in the hopes that it help others either like it is or for some to improve. Good luck with your ideas!
Nice set-up. Although the best results for these come from placing them right after the pump so that you get cooler and dryer air into the tank which allows it to hold more air in volume than hot moist air. It already cools and condenses a lot just from the tank so it makes more sense to use a set-up like this before the tank instead of after the tank (or do both to some extent).
The compressor is going to create heated air which holds moister. The purpose of this unit is to cool the air in vertical channels to promote the moisture to condense and fall to the bottom of the channels. Then the channels can be emptied via valves and the autodrain. Placing this before the compressor would not be affective.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Of course it would be effective which is why a lot of people do it that way. You route the output of the pump to the cooler / condenser first, then have a ball valve drain and or water separator, then it goes into the tank much cooler and dryer which allows you to actually hold more air by volume at the same pressure because it is both cooler and dryer than hot, expanded, moist air. Compressors are of course sold with the pump going strait to the tank but a lot of people reroute it to a cooler first. I call it an APC or After Pump Condenser. It greatly eliminates excessive moisture in the tank.
@OldOwl - I am building the setup you are talking about. It is technically an intercooler if it is between the pump and tank. If it is after the tank it is an after-cooler.
Thanks for ALL the info, including the smoke detectors. I went thru this house, stopping the vid. thinking I'm going to find that sucker. Glad you let us all know, on all.
I appreciate the kind words. I built it in preparation for the project that I am currently working on. I had a lot of fun researching, planning and building this unit. Cheers!!!!
UCanDoIt2 awesome and after my comment I saw that and started watching your wiring videos. I’m in process of changing my blown injected to turbo LS so I’m finding those videos great as well.
I realize that this project is probably seven years old and I cannot believe I haven’t run into your sight before. I am a retired aerospace engineer/aircraft mechanic with 50 years of experience doing precision work. I am impressed with your design and my project looks similar to yours in many ways. (I’m still in a design phase). However I am most impressed with your drawings!!!!!! I can not find a simple CAD app that doesn’t require me to have extensive self training before I start a project that I have in my head. I still use drafting practices I learned in high school with graph paper and a good mechanical pencil. Can you PLEASE let me know what app you are using. I looked for a Visio app and couldn’t find it. That would be a game changer for me Thank you in advance. Mike G🍺🇺🇸
I use Microsoft Visio. I’ve been using it prior to Microsoft purchasing the company that originally created it. It is extremely simple. Drag a rectangle I just to the work area and resize it with handles. The bottom tells you the size of you are looking to create a scaled drawing. You can define the drawing scale. Most of my projects get a custom drawing to go along with my other documentation for my purposes but I like to share them as well. If you could find a cheap license to an 2010 + version. You’d be in great shape.
nice presentation so would you tell me if you are publishing the paper work that shows all material you need to set up the compressor? i would like to print it to set up my air compressor in my garage.
Update wanted , how did it do ? What position did you end up putting it in ? One of the best information I have seen on UA-cam ! Great job , I want to build one now
Might as well use pre-finned 3/4 copper lines, for baseboard radiation. Faster heat transfer for lin ft of pipe. Larger compressors would need them and a fan. Also, the joint is not ready until the side of fitting away from flame melts the solder. Priming is ok by melting a bit of solder near the flame, but make sure the solder sucks in on the cold side. The joint will be uniformly covered with solder. A drip of solder is good at the cold side. After 47 years of soldering, you don't really need to visually check. Many times that is no assurance or guarantee of a uniform internal dispersal of solder.
Seems you defeated a feature of your risers by joining the pipes at the bottom. If you cut the joints at the bottom of each vertical run and add to each an auto drain, then you don't need to worry about the position of the valves to the left (they can be removed), and you would maximize the system as the flow would need to go up and down each leg with an autodrain at the bottom of each leg. Other's I've seen just have the manual valve at the bottom of each leg and they require individual manual draining, but your idea to catch the water draining into a common pipe defeats each separate leg. Hope you post updates...
When you close at least two of the valves, it makes is so that it is not joined. Valves are much cheaper that the AutoDrains! I designed mine like the ones with valves at the bottom of each loop, then just added a common "Manifold" to bring them back together so that it could be caught in one spot. Then I realized that I could use an autodrain and leave the first loop open and most of the water would drain automatically. Work Fantastic! Feel free to alter as you see fit.... mine works great as designed.
Great video. Ive bought my supplies and started looking over your diagrams. I have found errors in the "Copper Length" part on the 1st page. In the PDF file F and G lengths are 1 inch shorter than described in the video. @6mins 50sec you can clearly see the laid out T and elbow connects with the pipe span length being F = 2 3/4" and G - 2 1/4".. (not 1 3/4 and 1 1/4 in PDF) also I think there is a mistype 11 for length E as only 1 E is used for this build..Just trying to save people from cutting there pipe too short. Again I loved the video, minus the smoke detector lol, and I appreciate you sharing. Best video I found on youtube and PDF file instructions. Thank you!
I am not that familiar with the ratings. You will need to make sure it can handle the amount of pressure you plan to maintain in the system. My compressor is set to max out at about 120 PSI. The pressure gauge in the radiator is set at 90 PSI for most tools. The Radiator needs to be able to handle the 120 as that is what is being contained.
Just as I had completed this unit, my 22 gallon air compressor threw a belt and I used that excuse to upgrade to a 60 gallon 2 stage Ingersol Rand. I am working on getting it properly connected. So the short answer is... I have not yet put it through it's paces.
Nice design and well thought out. I would also suggest even heating of the copper fitting, keep that torch flame moving and concentrate heat in the bends of the 90’s to suck the soldier into the pipe joint. You will have a better sweat’s that way. On the Teflon tape I wrap the threads 3 times. The Teflon is a lubricant for the threads not so much a sealer.
Having just done my own, I am surprised how similar they are. My only suggestion would be to use compression fitting type ball valves so they can be serviced later. Nice video! PS: Love the software you used to picture your design!
I use a MUCH SIMPLER DESIGN. My shop is large, the compressor is 30+ foot away from the first air outlet. I ran a MAIN AIR MANIFOLD just below the ceiling. Leaving room to take air from the Main Air Manifold out of the top ( bottom is WET). I used copper & using a Slight Slope away from the compressor(this is key point). The last outlet is 100+ foot away from air compressor with a larger diameter copper pipe going straight down with a hand valve. When I open that valve, it's like a water hose. I just shoot 🔫 the water out behind the barn. The first time I drained the vertical trap, I had a gallon of WATER. So this works VERY very well. Remember ALL air connections coming out of the air manifold at the TOP ( the bottom is wet with condensed WATER). Very simple & less expensive than all the T's and 90* and ball valves.
Great video, so many thanks. On min 6:48 you mention the dimensions for the connecting pipes (2 1/4 and 2 3/4) but in the drawings you have them as 1 3/4 and 1 1/4. But let the E tubing at 7 1/4 , could you be so kind to tell me what are the right dimmensions? thanks
I believe it is working as planned. I actually don’t use air tools that much. I still get a lot of water collected in the bottoms of the main compressor tank itself.
Great tutorial, really appreciate the drawings. I like your changes at the end, well thought out. My only suggestion would be to use a dielectric fitting on either side of your filters.
I know the smoke alarm comments have been done to death, but I got fooled too, and actually wound up discovering that my detectors were 20 years old and should have been replaced a decade ago. Thanks for the useful side benefit, I guess. Plus, the radiator design looks really cool.
Nicely done. Watched it then referred to it many times while designing my systen. First question, what app did you use for drawings. They are beautifully done. Second, now that time has passed, have you changed anything? Last, how is the Automatic Drain working out? Thank you in advance for your help.
For the drawing, I use Microsoft Visio. Simple program that I have been using for 20 years. I haven't changed anything yet, but plan to upgrade the filters soon. Cheers... Mike!
@@backlash00 I assume it works... I have never heard it fire off. And when I think of it, and manually bleed it, it appears to be empty. I am not a heavy user of the system. I bled the compressor tank not to ling ago and probably drain 2 cups of water out of it.
It is awesome how everyone comes up with their own solution to the same problem. As the body work is about to start, I am about to put it to a true test!!!! Cheers!
I used Type M. I used it a couple of weeks with a smaller 44 Gallon Compressor. Then I upgraded to a larger 60 Gallon 2 stage compressor and used it a couple more weeks without any issues. The new compressor offers an opportunity to change the configuration a little (placing the Radiator between the Pump and the 60 gallon Tank) which I am still debating on that configuration change. I will be really putting it to the test when I get to the body work of my Jeep Restoration. I built this in preparation of the real work to come! Thanks for watching. Feel free to use and modify the design to meet your needs. Cheers!
Coper comes in 5ft and 10ft long . Then use 7/8 over 3/4 . 3/4 is made for water and smaller wall . They all tack the same size fittings . Try using street 90's with regular 90's cuts down on size
If you are referring to the Yellow Pruning Shears @ 9:56 in the video. That is something that you can purchase anywhere. Amazon has a cheep pair (here: amzn.to/2g5WQrP). While that is not the intention of the Shears, I would have to say that they worked perfectly and relatively safe. Thanks for the compliment and good luck with your project!
Despite that i must you are clearly as OCD as i am when it comes to these things! Hope it works well and thanks for your effort but I know its just your way!
Stephen Simpson I built this for an upcoming project. Starting to get into the area where I will be putting it to the test very shortly. Very limited use to this point. Cheers and thanks for watching.
I think I'm going to combine your video with an idea from this other one ua-cam.com/video/jxfNGkyGt3g/v-deo.html where I'll use a large diameter copper pipe and try to do it all in one stage. Thanks for taking the time to share this.
I built this in preparation for a restoration on an old Jeep which is now underway. I have yet to really push large amounts of air through it during the Motor and Transmission rebuilds. It was originally designed and configured to support my 22 gallon small compressor and as notes was placed after the tank. I have since upgraded to a 60 gallon Ingersol Rand 2 stage and think I might change the configuration to place this Radiator between the Compressor and Tank. If I decide to do that, I will make an updated video. Thanks for watching.
Awesome.. I'll be waiting/watching..... I recently acquired an 80 gallon IR and currently doing research on the best setup for my needs. I'm thinking it's better to over do it than not. I want to set this up one time :)....
I really like the use of your drawing to come up with a parts list and measurements. However, I've seen some videos that caution against using damp rags, sponges, etc. to cool the joints. They said that can lead to microfractures in the solder and eventually start them leaking. Could be someone's idea of a joke, I don't know. If you had 3 auto drains, you could eliminate the short path valves and not have to fuss with it so much.
I appreciated the feedback. Not sure on the damp rag info, but it does sound logical. I had seen others do it, which is what gave me the idea. Hope yours turns out the way you want it. Mike
Thank you Tom! I am using Visio 2010. Any version of Visio and other simple drawing tools would work. I don't believe that I used any stencils in this drawing. It is mostly simple rectangles, some made up elbows, and stolen photos from the internet. I have been using Visio for about 20 years and it is my GOTO software for mocking up the ideas in my head. (Wine Racks, Sluice Boxes, Hope Chests, Comcast House Wiring Layout, Cheese Press, etc.) Best of luck with your projects!
That is way too cool coming from London!!!!!! Thank you for the compliment! Spent a week in London in 1995 and had a blast. Sounds silly, but we still jokingly use the phrase "Mind the gap"! Cheers to you!
lol -"mind the gap" a lot of people find that funny, some train stations still announce that. When you start using your auto drain compressed air system please make a video of it working, it would be great if it works as good as it looks.
Microsoft Visio. Very easy to use. I have a video that I uploaded a long time ago where I walked through using Visio to design a Wine Rack. Really cool stuff. I have been using Vision for more than 15 years.
Have you found lots of water? The reason I ask is that lots of people making these separators use 30-50 feet of copper, you have chosen quite a bit less, so I was wondering does the air cool enough to let water vapor to condense out to liquid and not come out your tools?
Close quarters tube cutter all those cuts ouch lol i built a 3/4 black pipe with 5 unions with 3 6ft turns 3 water traps had tons of extra ball valves laying around, by the time the air hits the third turn no water. i have a parker industrial sediment trap an reg before the cooler and 2 regulators out. 1 for hvlp with trap 1 with oiler an manafold for air tools get em from work they throw anything taken apart crazy i know.
I see this video is a few years old now. Did the system work without leaking air? I ask because your soldering is very poor. It looks like your flux may have been old and oxidized and you did not use nearly enough heat. You want to start heating on one side of the pipe, I prefer the bottom, and then move to the top (for pipes 1” diameter and less - larger pipes require a different technique). Heat until the flux begins to sizzle and then test with the solder. If the solder doesn’t melt instantly when it hits the pipe, it isn’t hot enough yet. Give it a few more seconds and try again. Don’t try to force the solder in as you did when it wasn’t melting readily. That can bridge a location and prevent the solder from getting drawn well into the joint behind the bridge. And never wipe a hot joint with a damp rag! That can shock cool the joint and cause hairline cracks in the solder. Wipe with a clean dry rag to smooth the solder and then come back with a damp rag to clean off excess flux once the joint has cooled to near room temperature. It is also better to put the regulator and filters at the point of use rather than where the compressor feeds in. That way you can have full pressure in the system and step it down as needed for whatever tool is being used. You could put a filter at the compressor, but I would not put the regulator there. Regulate at each outlet as needed for air tools, spray guns, etc.
UCanDoIt2 This man is pretty good. He is one of the few I have seen that can solder wet pipes using a special fitting. Watch his channel if you want to see how to solder in all sorts of circumstances. ua-cam.com/video/m7OKgujf0eQ/v-deo.html
Looks pretty and all, but you could have used way less pipe if you used fin tube. Also, all that up and down is going to make for excessive drain traps and the need to screw around with all those valves to flush. A better design would be to take the pump outlet before it goes into the tank, send it through a radiator, with a metering valve after the coelesing filter but before entering the main tank so you can increase the pressure difference (at the cost of flow) to effectivly refrigerate the air going into the tank via pressure drop from the head pressure being above the tank pressure.
Most people don't because you can make a far smaller and easier type by using a transmission cooler and small fan. These giant tube setups are unnecessarily large and labor intensive(And expensive) Combine with a water trap that auto dumps and you're all set in 1/10th the size.
NPT - National Part Thread eh? One ya reduced down to 3/8 at the filter, it’s useless to go back up to 1/2. Also, you could have put a tee out of your filter instead of an elbow. A few wasted parts there and the 1/2 size after the filter is redundant. Good job though!
Plan is good but the soldering part is not correct. The fitting should be heated from one side and solder should be filled from the other to make sure it flows with capillary action. Flame should never directly heat the solder wire.
Larry I would also suggest even heating of the copper fitting, keep that torch flame moving and concentrate heat in the bends of the 90’s to suck the soldier into the pipe joint. You will have a better sweat’s that way. On the Teflon tape I wrap the threads 3 times. The Teflon is a lubricant for the threads not so much a sealer.
I built one in my shop almost just like yours and still had water in my air ! my sand blaster stopping up. Then I built an after cooler with auto drain between the compressor and tank ... no more water . not even in the tank it stays dry . See my video .
@@larryhaney6608 Muchos gracias Amigo One picture speaks 1000 words, a moving picture, an encyclopedia! After slowing it down it seems to go Compressor > top of cooler > water separator > tank > air hose > whatever If that's correct then I can run with it. Seems straightforward enough. I mainly want it to dry out the air for the plasma cutter I have just bought. I was thinking of adding a dessicant dryer. But maybe that's overkill? Having priced the auto part (and nearly had a seizure) I was thinking of using ½" copper pipe which I can buy from an air conditioning supply. Any thoughts? It certainly takes a lot less hoo-ha than the wall mounted "trombones" that seem to be favoured by many. Thanks Bert Kirsten
@@bertkutoob Yep U have the order right . I mounted the cooler in front of the pulley /fan to draw air through it . If your talking about the price of the cooler I think I paid around $30 for it two or 3 years ago but thats nothing compared to the cost of a plasma cutter .
For the life of me, I cant understand why you put three valves on the bottom of the cooler lines. All you need is a valve on the inlet of the cooler because you would have no pressure on the cooler when you use the drain. why take the time to figure the links out when they aren't needed and the extra cost of the three valves.
Well to try to explain it... The Valve separate the "S" line from the bottom manifold. With all valves closed, the air only has one path and that is to follow the "S". At the bottom of each of the loops is where the water will settle. By opening a valve, you allow the water in that loop to drop into the manifold. If you run it with valves open, the air will not be forced through the entire "S" channel which is needed to cool and condense the moisture. Close all valves during operation. Open any or all valves temporarily to allow drainage of water in the loop. The Auto drain at the bottom works perfectly.
Have you experimented with valves open and valves closed to determine any difference? The surface area is the important part valves open or closed, if I’m recalling those classes correctly.
Where is the cooler at? Are you implying the copper tubing itself is the cooler? Don’t know how much moisture you will remove with that, generally to remove moisture having a cooler after the compressor pump before the tank is where the cooling should happen
Copper's a favorite because dozens of UA-camrs have made it popular, it's easy to sweat joints at home, it seems like the perfect material for heat dissipation, and you can buy it anywhere. But hundreds of pounds of hot moist air are constantly condensing inside feet and feet of copper tubing, picking up microscopic copper and producing gobs of copper oxides which carry on to contaminate your expensive filters and dryers, and aluminum air tools. Hello dissimilar metal corrosion. Sorry to give you the bad news, but there's a reason you don't find commercial copper heat exchangers for air compressor systems which have aluminum downstream. The only partial protection you have now, is to turn your tool oiler up to maximum flow. Let us know how your tools are doing in 5 years.
In a commercial or industrial environment I would agree. For a home use system water kills tools in short period of time. Which this system prevents. The long term galvanic reaction from years of contact will never occur.
You made me laugh. Or should I say LOL these days. You reminded me of when I was younger and someone had something really cool. You would ask them, "Where did you get that"? and their response was.... " The Gettin' place". Haha... I have my own Gettin' Place. Cheers!
Looks like a obsessive compulsive mess,, that I made much simpler and less expensive,, but the best way to dry air is cool it before it enters the tank,, I used a 1/2 inch copper coil tubing between compressor and tank with separator on end,,,dropped air temperature 80 degrees and moisture problem solved,, I have low drops on all my connection stations but not much water ever makes it that far.
@@topgunpressurecleaning8930 I use compressor fan and put a water separator before tank, the air travels so fast through the tubing I don't think fan helps much,, you would of had to convert the dc motor to ac to run it with your set-up, I've seen so many vedio of expensive piping ran after the tank not realizing the answer is to cool air before it condensates in tank.
Just finished mine last night...pipe, tools, and drain/filter was about $500 all in. Also...I put a dead battery in my smoke detector to make sure I did everything the same way you did! ;). Thanks a million for the materials list and video...made it easier.
FABULOUS!!! Thank you so much, Sir, for the incredible detail to show those who are not as familiar with the workings, and construction of such a necessary component for anyone's pneumatic system, where a water-tainted airflow is literally disaster; auto and aircraft painting, sandblasting, et al. So kind and generous of you to supply this tutelage! Bless you. I am as deaf as a snake, and so I missed the screaming of your smoke detector, but the previous critic didn't realize that it was the soldering operation that triggered that alarm. The one in my shop goes off all the time, and I CAN hear it! Thank you for sharing you great intellect.
Thank you for the kind words! Cheers to you and have a great time with all your projects!!!!
professional presentation (no foul language was a plus) with detailed instructions and diagrams. Thank you sir.
and no excessive farting was a plus, most don't like it. I do however.
Change the battery in your smoke detector!!! Thought one of mine had decided to go bad and walked through the house trying to figure it out before I realized it was in the recording.
OK... Now that is funny! I just recently patched and repainted the wall that the smoke detector is on and decided to replace the whole unit. It ate batteries monthly. The new one is working perfectly. Still smiling!
I just changed the battery in one detector this week so I believed that another could be going out soon. When my dog heard the beep he looked at me and wanted to bark, so I also walked around trying to find the beep but it never came back. Sat back down at the computer and saw the annotation saying you replaced the detector; rewound the video and sure enough heard the same sound & my dog heard it too and came running. Guess he'll be a good secondary alarm if I don't hear the first!
That's so funny! I became a little immune to it. But am proud to say that we are safe again! Love the dog story!
Yup, my dog bailed at the beep as well. She is now in the basement.
I was just about to go check mine when I saw your comment.
Great presentation. One note, you need to change the straps that hold the pipe to the wall. It looks like you used steel straps used for electric conduit. Long term contact between dissimilar metals, will result in galvanic corrosion. You need to replace the straps with copper or plastic straps/pipe holders found in the plumbing dept.
Great observation and that is a great idea! Thanks for watching.
Karl V wondering whether this happens when moisture is not present.
UCanDoIt2 or add a rubber pads between strap and pipe
@@mrtechnophile3483 Unless it’s in a vacuum or something, the moisture in the air will be enough to cause a problem. An air conditioned space will gain you a few years but that’s not enough, especially considering the cost of copper these days.
Very thorough, methodical and professional job! Thanks.
Built this system for my compressor. Glad I purchased the PneumaticPlus units that were recommended. They look really solid. This cooler in 2020 cost me about $500 to build. About 1/2 was on the dryer/filter/regulator and auto drain unit. The rest was all the plumping material. I didn’t purchase gas for soldering because I had that in my garage. I can’t recall if he specified the copper pipe wall thickness, but I bought L-series that has a thicker wall thickness. If you made it from M-series the price would drop about $40. I don’t think you can build it with 3 10ft length. Cuts just don’t workout. So, I purchase 4 10ft and have leftovers. Ended up buying the container of 90 elbows and T’s. If you bought them individually you paid almost as much for halve as many. I took my time and pressure checked. So, it is an 8 hour project. To pressure check, solder end caps over the outlets and pressurize the unit on the inlet side. Held 120 psi without any problems. My compressor and the 1/4 in supply line might have to be upgraded to something that can deliver higher cubic feet a minute.
Useful ideas there. I'm trawling youtube for all the best ideas from everyone's systems, then finally put my own together. For my purposes, I'll put my cooler/condensate trap between the compressor and the main receiver to keep the water out and stop it rusting.
Thanks so much for taking the time to put together this do it yourself project.
You are more than welcome. It was worth the time it tool to document in the hopes that it help others either like it is or for some to improve. Good luck with your ideas!
Appreciate your time and input! Will try this on my compressor 😅
It works very well for me.
Nice set-up. Although the best results for these come from placing them right after the pump so that you get cooler and dryer air into the tank which allows it to hold more air in volume than hot moist air. It already cools and condenses a lot just from the tank so it makes more sense to use a set-up like this before the tank instead of after the tank (or do both to some extent).
The compressor is going to create heated air which holds moister. The purpose of this unit is to cool the air in vertical channels to promote the moisture to condense and fall to the bottom of the channels. Then the channels can be emptied via valves and the autodrain. Placing this before the compressor would not be affective.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Of course it would be effective which is why a lot of people do it that way. You route the output of the pump to the cooler / condenser first, then have a ball valve drain and or water separator, then it goes into the tank much cooler and dryer which allows you to actually hold more air by volume at the same pressure because it is both cooler and dryer than hot, expanded, moist air.
Compressors are of course sold with the pump going strait to the tank but a lot of people reroute it to a cooler first. I call it an APC or After Pump Condenser. It greatly eliminates excessive moisture in the tank.
@OldOwl - I am building the setup you are talking about. It is technically an intercooler if it is between the pump and tank. If it is after the tank it is an after-cooler.
Well done! Where do I find the plans please?
In the description section below the video is a link to a FREE 3 page PDF.
I love the design, and how you showed that the original didnt work out. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
I like the auto drain idea. I might incorporate that into the dryer I build for my everlast plasma cutter.
Thanks for ALL the info, including the smoke detectors. I went thru this house, stopping the vid. thinking I'm going to find that sucker. Glad you let us all know, on all.
I'm Laughing!!!!! Sorry that you thought it was your Smoke Detector! Mine works just fine now that it has a good battery in it! Cheers!
Neal Schwabauer same same ask my wife what smoke detector is beeping lol
You could save the money on the three ball valves and buy three auto drains….. now it is totally automated. Nice build!
Nice job! This video is an excellent example of a useful how-to, with clear explanation and good detail on your steps. Thanks much.
I really appreciate the kind words Tom! Thanks for taking the time to respond and hope it helps you with your project.
What a well thought out, well executed build and video! Thanks for your effort
I appreciate the kind words. I built it in preparation for the project that I am currently working on. I had a lot of fun researching, planning and building this unit. Cheers!!!!
UCanDoIt2 awesome and after my comment I saw that and started watching your wiring videos. I’m in process of changing my blown injected to turbo LS so I’m finding those videos great as well.
Sweet!!!!
I realize that this project is probably seven years old and I cannot believe I haven’t run into your sight before.
I am a retired aerospace engineer/aircraft mechanic with 50 years of experience doing precision work.
I am impressed with your design and my project looks similar to yours in many ways. (I’m still in a design phase).
However I am most impressed with your drawings!!!!!!
I can not find a simple CAD app that doesn’t require me to have extensive self training before I start a project that I have in my head. I still use drafting practices I learned in high school with graph paper and a good mechanical pencil.
Can you PLEASE let me know what app you are using. I looked for a Visio app and couldn’t find it. That would be a game changer for me
Thank you in advance.
Mike G🍺🇺🇸
I use Microsoft Visio. I’ve been using it prior to Microsoft purchasing the company that originally created it.
It is extremely simple. Drag a rectangle I just to the work area and resize it with handles. The bottom tells you the size of you are looking to create a scaled drawing. You can define the drawing scale.
Most of my projects get a custom drawing to go along with my other documentation for my purposes but I like to share them as well.
If you could find a cheap license to an 2010 + version. You’d be in great shape.
Check out eBay.
nice presentation so would you tell me if you are publishing the paper work that shows all material you need to set up the compressor? i would like to print it to set up my air compressor in my garage.
There is a 3 page downloadable document in the description of tis video with the plans
Update wanted , how did it do ? What position did you end up putting it in ? One of the best information I have seen on UA-cam ! Great job , I want to build one now
Might as well use pre-finned 3/4 copper lines, for baseboard radiation. Faster heat transfer for lin ft of pipe. Larger compressors would need them and a fan.
Also, the joint is not ready until the side of fitting away from flame melts the solder. Priming is ok by melting a bit of solder near the flame, but make sure the solder sucks in on the cold side. The joint will be uniformly covered with solder. A drip of solder is good at the cold side. After 47 years of soldering, you don't really need to visually check. Many times that is no assurance or guarantee of a uniform internal dispersal of solder.
👍🏻👊🏻 Thank you! For the info! I will build mine now using you diagram and parts list. Cheers!
Seems you defeated a feature of your risers by joining the pipes at the bottom. If you cut the joints at the bottom of each vertical run and add to each an auto drain, then you don't need to worry about the position of the valves to the left (they can be removed), and you would maximize the system as the flow would need to go up and down each leg with an autodrain at the bottom of each leg. Other's I've seen just have the manual valve at the bottom of each leg and they require individual manual draining, but your idea to catch the water draining into a common pipe defeats each separate leg. Hope you post updates...
When you close at least two of the valves, it makes is so that it is not joined. Valves are much cheaper that the AutoDrains! I designed mine like the ones with valves at the bottom of each loop, then just added a common "Manifold" to bring them back together so that it could be caught in one spot. Then I realized that I could use an autodrain and leave the first loop open and most of the water would drain automatically. Work Fantastic! Feel free to alter as you see fit.... mine works great as designed.
You have some great ideas in your design that I'm going to use for powerplasma cutter dryer. The autodrain feature will be a huge blessing!
Sweet!!!!!! Customize to your heart's desire!!
Great video. Ive bought my supplies and started looking over your diagrams. I have found errors in the "Copper Length" part on the 1st page. In the PDF file F and G lengths are 1 inch shorter than described in the video. @6mins 50sec you can clearly see the laid out T and elbow connects with the pipe span length being F = 2 3/4" and G - 2 1/4".. (not 1 3/4 and 1 1/4 in PDF) also I think there is a mistype 11 for length E as only 1 E is used for this build..Just trying to save people from cutting there pipe too short. Again I loved the video, minus the smoke detector lol, and I appreciate you sharing. Best video I found on youtube and PDF file instructions. Thank you!
Jesse DiSano I’ll check into it. Thanks!
It's impossible to get type K equivalent plumbing here in Europe. Is Type L equivalent enough?
I am not that familiar with the ratings. You will need to make sure it can handle the amount of pressure you plan to maintain in the system. My compressor is set to max out at about 120 PSI. The pressure gauge in the radiator is set at 90 PSI for most tools. The Radiator needs to be able to handle the 120 as that is what is being contained.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Now I realized even Type M pipe is enough (up to 350 PSI). Thanks!
So you've had your system in use for a while. How's it working? Is it performing the way you thought it would?
Just as I had completed this unit, my 22 gallon air compressor threw a belt and I used that excuse to upgrade to a 60 gallon 2 stage Ingersol Rand. I am working on getting it properly connected. So the short answer is... I have not yet put it through it's paces.
Any update?
Nice design and well thought out. I would also suggest even heating of the copper fitting, keep that torch flame moving and concentrate heat in the bends of the 90’s to suck the soldier into the pipe joint. You will have a better sweat’s that way.
On the Teflon tape I wrap the threads 3 times. The Teflon is a lubricant for the threads not so much a sealer.
Having just done my own, I am surprised how similar they are. My only suggestion would be to use compression fitting type ball valves so they can be serviced later. Nice video! PS: Love the software you used to picture your design!
I use a MUCH SIMPLER DESIGN. My shop is large, the compressor is 30+ foot away from the first air outlet. I ran a MAIN AIR MANIFOLD just below the ceiling. Leaving room to take air from the Main Air Manifold out of the top ( bottom is WET). I used copper & using a Slight Slope away from the compressor(this is key point). The last outlet is 100+ foot away from air compressor with a larger diameter copper pipe going straight down with a hand valve. When I open that valve, it's like a water hose. I just shoot 🔫 the water out behind the barn. The first time I drained the vertical trap, I had a gallon of WATER. So this works VERY very well. Remember ALL air connections coming out of the air manifold at the TOP ( the bottom is wet with condensed WATER). Very simple & less expensive than all the T's and 90* and ball valves.
Great video, so many thanks. On min 6:48 you mention the dimensions for the connecting pipes (2 1/4 and 2 3/4) but in the drawings you have them as 1 3/4 and 1 1/4. But let the E tubing at 7 1/4 , could you be so kind to tell me what are the right dimmensions? thanks
So do you have an update? Looks good.
I believe it is working as planned. I actually don’t use air tools that much. I still get a lot of water collected in the bottoms of the main compressor tank itself.
I like your set up. I want to make something similar to get nice dry air to the everlast plasma cutter I want to buy.
Thanks for the feedback Jim. Hope it helps your Plasma Cutter setup!!!!!
You ever buy that Neverlast plasma cutter? I see these shill postings for Neverlast all over the place, wonder what people get paid for posting them.
Great tutorial, really appreciate the drawings. I like your changes at the end, well thought out. My only suggestion would be to use a dielectric fitting on either side of your filters.
Thank you!!!!! Yes you are probably correct on the dielectric fitting. Great suggestion! Cheers!
I know the smoke alarm comments have been done to death, but I got fooled too, and actually wound up discovering that my detectors were 20 years old and should have been replaced a decade ago. Thanks for the useful side benefit, I guess. Plus, the radiator design looks really cool.
Thanks for being easy on me. Yes it has been beat to death. Cheers to you! Mike
Nicely done. Watched it then referred to it many times while designing my systen. First question, what app did you use for drawings. They are beautifully done. Second, now that time has passed, have you changed anything? Last, how is the Automatic Drain working out?
Thank you in advance for your help.
For the drawing, I use Microsoft Visio. Simple program that I have been using for 20 years. I haven't changed anything yet, but plan to upgrade the filters soon. Cheers... Mike!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thanks Mike. Is the auto drain still working?
@@backlash00 I assume it works... I have never heard it fire off. And when I think of it, and manually bleed it, it appears to be empty. I am not a heavy user of the system. I bled the compressor tank not to ling ago and probably drain 2 cups of water out of it.
Add a pre tank cooler no water inside my tank ever!
How are you liking the pneumatics plus equipment? Thinking about it for my build.
They appear to work as designed. No complaints so far.
Thanks
nice! I didn't do the auto drain, but something similar and added a homemade desiccant tube
It is awesome how everyone comes up with their own solution to the same problem. As the body work is about to start, I am about to put it to a true test!!!! Cheers!
Great job! Did use use type "m" or "l" pipe? How's it holding up?
I used Type M. I used it a couple of weeks with a smaller 44 Gallon Compressor. Then I upgraded to a larger 60 Gallon 2 stage compressor and used it a couple more weeks without any issues. The new compressor offers an opportunity to change the configuration a little (placing the Radiator between the Pump and the 60 gallon Tank) which I am still debating on that configuration change. I will be really putting it to the test when I get to the body work of my Jeep Restoration. I built this in preparation of the real work to come! Thanks for watching. Feel free to use and modify the design to meet your needs. Cheers!
Coper comes in 5ft and 10ft long . Then use 7/8 over 3/4 . 3/4 is made for water and smaller wall . They all tack the same size fittings . Try using street 90's with regular 90's cuts down on size
Where do you get that de-burring tool from I never saw one like that. Please post a link to it. Really enjoyed your video.
If you are referring to the Yellow Pruning Shears @ 9:56 in the video. That is something that you can purchase anywhere. Amazon has a cheep pair (here: amzn.to/2g5WQrP). While that is not the intention of the Shears, I would have to say that they worked perfectly and relatively safe. Thanks for the compliment and good luck with your project!
No, I was referring to the tool that look like a battery post cleaner, red in color. The tool de-burred both the inside and outside of the tubbing.
OK.. That is a Pipe Fitting Brush used to clean off the oxidation on the copper pipe and fittings.. They are pretty cheap: amzn.to/2g9I0k5
Despite that i must you are clearly as OCD as i am when it comes to these things! Hope it works well and thanks for your effort but I know its just your way!
Works great! Cheers.
So how did this end up? Did you end up just having the first valve open or the second? Where did you find you get most of your water?
Stephen Simpson I built this for an upcoming project. Starting to get into the area where I will be putting it to the test very shortly. Very limited use to this point. Cheers and thanks for watching.
I made mine with the last connections to the 3 stage being standard flexible air hose.. so it can easily be taken out of the loop
What stage or stages do you trap the most water? Do you get most of the water with stage 1? Have you had any water show up at stage 2 or stage 3?
I think I'm going to combine your video with an idea from this other one ua-cam.com/video/jxfNGkyGt3g/v-deo.html where I'll use a large diameter copper pipe and try to do it all in one stage. Thanks for taking the time to share this.
Mostly in Stage1 very little in Stage 2 and I not noticing any in Stage 3. It is not exact science as they all ultimately dump into the same trap.
very very thoroughly thought out... thanks for sharing
Curious how your final setup is configure. Which valve did you end up having normally open and which part does the water collect the most?
I built this in preparation for a restoration on an old Jeep which is now underway. I have yet to really push large amounts of air through it during the Motor and Transmission rebuilds. It was originally designed and configured to support my 22 gallon small compressor and as notes was placed after the tank. I have since upgraded to a 60 gallon Ingersol Rand 2 stage and think I might change the configuration to place this Radiator between the Compressor and Tank. If I decide to do that, I will make an updated video. Thanks for watching.
Awesome.. I'll be waiting/watching..... I recently acquired an 80 gallon IR and currently doing research on the best setup for my needs. I'm thinking it's better to over do it than not. I want to set this up one time :)....
I now this is an old video, but it has some good thought-out information
Works very well. Cheers!
The first T you soldered, why dont you turn the joint vertical?
Thank you! What a wonderful video and detailed plan. That's really helpful!
I really like the use of your drawing to come up with a parts list and measurements. However, I've seen some videos that caution against using damp rags, sponges, etc. to cool the joints. They said that can lead to microfractures in the solder and eventually start them leaking. Could be someone's idea of a joke, I don't know.
If you had 3 auto drains, you could eliminate the short path valves and not have to fuss with it so much.
I appreciated the feedback. Not sure on the damp rag info, but it does sound logical. I had seen others do it, which is what gave me the idea. Hope yours turns out the way you want it. Mike
How has this cooling/air dryer setup worked for you? I tried looking for an update with no success.
@@Bennycion works as designed. I really like it.
Very helpful. thank you so much for making this!
Glad it was helpful!
Your preparation is amazing, great project - all very commendable! What version of Visio did you use for the drawings?
Thank you Tom! I am using Visio 2010. Any version of Visio and other simple drawing tools would work. I don't believe that I used any stencils in this drawing. It is mostly simple rectangles, some made up elbows, and stolen photos from the internet. I have been using Visio for about 20 years and it is my GOTO software for mocking up the ideas in my head. (Wine Racks, Sluice Boxes, Hope Chests, Comcast House Wiring Layout, Cheese Press, etc.) Best of luck with your projects!
Great video so well explained, your going to heaven for making this video, thumbs up from London uk
That is way too cool coming from London!!!!!! Thank you for the compliment! Spent a week in London in 1995 and had a blast. Sounds silly, but we still jokingly use the phrase "Mind the gap"! Cheers to you!
lol -"mind the gap" a lot of people find that funny, some train stations still announce that.
When you start using your auto drain compressed air system please make a video of it working, it would be great if it works as good as it looks.
cool project. thanks for sharing
Awesome build. What software did you use to diagram your system? Cheers
Microsoft Visio. Very easy to use. I have a video that I uploaded a long time ago where I walked through using Visio to design a Wine Rack. Really cool stuff. I have been using Vision for more than 15 years.
Have you found lots of water? The reason I ask is that lots of people making these separators use 30-50 feet of copper, you have chosen quite a bit less, so I was wondering does the air cool enough to let water vapor to condense out to liquid and not come out your tools?
Very Good!...
How many gas cylinders is use in charging air dryer
what program did you use to make that pdf?
Microsoft Visio!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks
2:31 Is that the tip of a gen 1 Camaro I see???
Maybe.... It is in line for a restoration once I get my Jeep done... Us old men have to keep ourselves busy somehow!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Waiting for funds to buy one for myself...
Seems like you could save on valves (but more ell joints) by doing a zig-zag up the wall.
Could add a muffin fan or two for better cooling.
Close quarters tube cutter all those cuts ouch lol i built a 3/4 black pipe with 5 unions with 3 6ft turns 3 water traps had tons of extra ball valves laying around, by the time the air hits the third turn no water. i have a parker industrial sediment trap an reg before the cooler and 2 regulators out. 1 for hvlp with trap 1 with oiler an manafold for air tools get em from work they throw anything taken apart crazy i know.
Jon A I was thinking of using black pipe but does the black pipe dissipate the heat and cause the condensation like a copper pipe does?
Heat rises. Heat on the lower side, apply solder to the top side. Solder flows towards the heat source.
Very nicely done. Thank you for the video.
Thank you sir!!!! Cheers!
If you get a bigger air compressor get a fs curtis you can't go wrong!👍
I see this video is a few years old now. Did the system work without leaking air? I ask because your soldering is very poor. It looks like your flux may have been old and oxidized and you did not use nearly enough heat. You want to start heating on one side of the pipe, I prefer the bottom, and then move to the top (for pipes 1” diameter and less - larger pipes require a different technique). Heat until the flux begins to sizzle and then test with the solder. If the solder doesn’t melt instantly when it hits the pipe, it isn’t hot enough yet. Give it a few more seconds and try again. Don’t try to force the solder in as you did when it wasn’t melting readily. That can bridge a location and prevent the solder from getting drawn well into the joint behind the bridge. And never wipe a hot joint with a damp rag! That can shock cool the joint and cause hairline cracks in the solder. Wipe with a clean dry rag to smooth the solder and then come back with a damp rag to clean off excess flux once the joint has cooled to near room temperature.
It is also better to put the regulator and filters at the point of use rather than where the compressor feeds in. That way you can have full pressure in the system and step it down as needed for whatever tool is being used. You could put a filter at the compressor, but I would not put the regulator there. Regulate at each outlet as needed for air tools, spray guns, etc.
You caught me! I had two joints that leaked! One I have fixed and the other I still need to get around to fixing! Cheers that thanks for the advice.
UCanDoIt2 This man is pretty good. He is one of the few I have seen that can solder wet pipes using a special fitting. Watch his channel if you want to see how to solder in all sorts of circumstances. ua-cam.com/video/m7OKgujf0eQ/v-deo.html
LTVoyager (
great work .
Thank you for the comment. Hope it helps you with your next project!
use some base board heating pieces then we could have the fins on there
Looks pretty and all, but you could have used way less pipe if you used fin tube. Also, all that up and down is going to make for excessive drain traps and the need to screw around with all those valves to flush. A better design would be to take the pump outlet before it goes into the tank, send it through a radiator, with a metering valve after the coelesing filter but before entering the main tank so you can increase the pressure difference (at the cost of flow) to effectivly refrigerate the air going into the tank via pressure drop from the head pressure being above the tank pressure.
Can we see an example of this?
Awesome thanks for sharing
Manufacture and sell these! Many people can't be bothered making these themselves.
Most people don't because you can make a far smaller and easier type by using a transmission cooler and small fan. These giant tube setups are unnecessarily large and labor intensive(And expensive)
Combine with a water trap that auto dumps and you're all set in 1/10th the size.
Did you star in the 1980’s movie Gremlins
NPT - National Part Thread eh? One ya reduced down to 3/8 at the filter, it’s useless to go back up to 1/2. Also, you could have put a tee out of your filter instead of an elbow. A few wasted parts there and the 1/2 size after the filter is redundant. Good job though!
Plan is good but the soldering part is not correct. The fitting should be heated from one side and solder should be filled from the other to make sure it flows with capillary action.
Flame should never directly heat the solder wire.
I can’t believe you filmed this entire video with your smoke alarm battery chirp going off.
for faster sweating of pipes, using Mapp Gas in the yellow container works faster and better on 3/4" copper.
Larry I would also suggest even heating of the copper fitting, keep that torch flame moving and concentrate heat in the bends of the 90’s to suck the soldier into the pipe joint. You will have a better sweat’s that way.
On the Teflon tape I wrap the threads 3 times. The Teflon is a lubricant for the threads not so much a sealer.
heat the opposite side of the fitting from where you apply the solder. You didn't have quite enough heat on the bottom of those.
Does that help "draw" the solder into the joint?
immensely
I built one in my shop almost just like yours and still had water in my air ! my sand blaster stopping up. Then I built an after cooler with auto drain between the compressor and tank ... no more water . not even in the tank it stays dry . See my video .
Larry
Can you please provide a link to your video.
@@bertkutoob Go to Larry Haney on YOU tube or just click on my name ,
@@larryhaney6608
Muchos gracias Amigo
One picture speaks 1000 words, a moving picture, an encyclopedia!
After slowing it down it seems to go
Compressor > top of cooler > water separator > tank > air hose > whatever
If that's correct then I can run with it. Seems straightforward enough.
I mainly want it to dry out the air for the plasma cutter I have just bought. I was thinking of adding a dessicant dryer. But maybe that's overkill?
Having priced the auto part (and nearly had a seizure) I was thinking of using ½" copper pipe which I can buy from an air conditioning supply.
Any thoughts?
It certainly takes a lot less hoo-ha than the wall mounted "trombones" that seem to be favoured by many.
Thanks
Bert Kirsten
@@bertkutoob Yep U have the order right . I mounted the cooler in front of the pulley /fan to draw air through it . If your talking about the price of the cooler I think I paid around $30 for it two or 3 years ago but thats nothing compared to the cost of a plasma cutter .
larry hane
For the life of me, I cant understand why you put three valves on the bottom of the cooler lines. All you need is a valve on the inlet of the cooler because you would have no pressure on the cooler when you use the drain. why take the time to figure the links out when they aren't needed and the extra cost of the three valves.
Well to try to explain it... The Valve separate the "S" line from the bottom manifold. With all valves closed, the air only has one path and that is to follow the "S". At the bottom of each of the loops is where the water will settle. By opening a valve, you allow the water in that loop to drop into the manifold. If you run it with valves open, the air will not be forced through the entire "S" channel which is needed to cool and condense the moisture. Close all valves during operation. Open any or all valves temporarily to allow drainage of water in the loop. The Auto drain at the bottom works perfectly.
Have you experimented with valves open and valves closed to determine any difference? The surface area is the important part valves open or closed, if I’m recalling those classes correctly.
Where is the cooler at? Are you implying the copper tubing itself is the cooler? Don’t know how much moisture you will remove with that, generally to remove moisture having a cooler after the compressor pump before the tank is where the cooling should happen
It's not good etiquette to post a video with the low battery smoke detector.
Copper's a favorite because dozens of UA-camrs have made it popular, it's easy to sweat joints at home, it seems like the perfect material for heat dissipation, and you can buy it anywhere. But hundreds of pounds of hot moist air are constantly condensing inside feet and feet of copper tubing, picking up microscopic copper and producing gobs of copper oxides which carry on to contaminate your expensive filters and dryers, and aluminum air tools. Hello dissimilar metal corrosion. Sorry to give you the bad news, but there's a reason you don't find commercial copper heat exchangers for air compressor systems which have aluminum downstream. The only partial protection you have now, is to turn your tool oiler up to maximum flow.
Let us know how your tools are doing in 5 years.
Good thing I'm not a commercial operation and that I do not buy expensive air tools. Cheers!
In a commercial or industrial environment I would agree. For a home use system water kills tools in short period of time. Which this system prevents. The long term galvanic reaction from years of contact will never occur.
Those metal brackets holding that copper is going to destroy your copper.
So, where is your parent's house?
I need same fittings LOL.
You made me laugh. Or should I say LOL these days. You reminded me of when I was younger and someone had something really cool. You would ask them, "Where did you get that"? and their response was.... " The Gettin' place". Haha... I have my own Gettin' Place. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike EL O EL
Looks like a obsessive compulsive mess,, that I made much simpler and less expensive,, but the best way to dry air is cool it before it enters the tank,, I used a 1/2 inch copper coil tubing between compressor and tank with separator on end,,,dropped air temperature 80 degrees and moisture problem solved,, I have low drops on all my connection stations but not much water ever makes it that far.
@@topgunpressurecleaning8930 I use compressor fan and put a water separator before tank, the air travels so fast through the tubing I don't think fan helps much,, you would of had to convert the dc motor to ac to run it with your set-up, I've seen so many vedio of expensive piping ran after the tank not realizing the answer is to cool air before it condensates in tank.
I made it to the 4 minute mark. The smoke detector was just too much.
this is not a dryer but an aftercooler..
Put a battery in your smoke alarm
That video is 6 years old... I have replaced the battery... unfortunately it started beeping again yesterday. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike 😆