Dirt Cheap DIY Dessicant Air Dryer
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Product links below!
With the humid air in my region, and my high SCFM air supply, I needed to upgrade my air dryer so that my blasting media stays dry over long hours of fossil preparation. Watch as I build a Dirt Cheap, Do-it-yourself, Silica Desiccant Air Dryer out of common items at your home improvement store.
Last video here: • How To Build Your Own ...
Pentek Filter Housing: amzn.to/3jyqSdk
Air Pressure Regulator Combo 3/8": amzn.to/3wWmtnB
PVC Pipe Sch40 3/4 Inch: amzn.to/3DClah9
PVC 3/4 SCH 40 coupling: amzn.to/3YGRsA3
Filter Regulator 3/8": amzn.to/3DJcFRM
Rubber Sheet: amzn.to/3jx0pgi
Hex Bushing 3/4 Inch Male x 3/8: amzn.to/40Yb8BF
Hex Bushing 3/8" Inch Male x 1/4": amzn.to/3wUhrrw
Hex Nipple, 3/8" x 3/8": amzn.to/3Ym4PoX
Pentek Spanner Wrench: amzn.to/3JGiTW8
Premium Silica Gel Blue: amzn.to/3l4oICx
manifold block 3/8" inlet by 1/4" outlet: www.pneumaticp...
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📌 You can find the previous video of this series here: ua-cam.com/video/tVtxD60aVvY/v-deo.html 📌
I just built one of these with an old water filter I had for yrs a garage sale find for 3 bucks. It said on the side it was good for 150 psi but I only put 80psi through it. I did proof test it at 150 psi for 24 hrs. I found I could use a carbon water filter cartridge for taste and odor instead of making up a PVC pipe for the inside. The filter has thin layers wrapped many times around the main core.
I used a razor knife on the outer edges and unwrapped 60% of the layers then wrapped the top 8.5" with a thick layer of electrical tape but left the bottom 1.5 inches uncovered, this forces the air down through the beads then it goes through the 1.5" then up and out of the filter.
I plumbed it the regular way to air enters the top of the beads then filters down then through the charcoal filter. So my beads start to discolor at the top.
The water filter also filters the air and keeps any beads from getting into the air system. These filters are cheap so you don't have to bother with the PVC pipe, I was going to until I found that water filter cartridge and figured I would try that, it worked perfect now my sand blaster and plasma cutter are happy with dry air.
I considered using the factory filter cartridge, but they take up so much space and would reduce the amount of silica beads. I didn't consider stripping one down to the core. But the PVC is cheap and about as small a diameter as you could get to work.
Air to silica gel = N2 ?
No, silica gel absorbs moisture from air, it does not absorb oxygen or produce nitrogen
Very glad you were not standing beside it. I feel like the system is still a sound idea though. And adding 'containment' may be easy as a ballistic cordura wrap. Just saying. Probably a good idea as a safety measure.
hey, so I have assembled a similar system in my shop with a Derale cooler to 'densify' the hot air before it reaches the beads . I used 2 Pentec housings in series ( overkill but air is REALLY DRY). a few things I've added to this idea for safety are.... 1- I added a 100 psi pressure release pop-up valve inline as a precaution and also a regulator and gauge beside it so the system is always running at least 25 psi below the rated limit. 2- I've added a perforated metal cup/shield that slip fits the plastic globes to contain shards in the event they ever fail. 3- I went to my local water filter store and bought these beautiful screw on screens for the induction tube in the housing which - despite being expensive - really opens the flow capacity through the beads. 4- I epoxied the brass bushings into the housing to eliminate leakage. 5- I also went to Amazon and bought some #40 mesh stainless screen and made a large "washer" that push fits up into the housing head and grabs in place like a Tinnerman nut; this also really opens the outlet compared to the scrub pad idea. Note: there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the system as you assembled it; I only offer these comments to you and your subscribers as 'upgrades'
What epoxy did you use to install the brass fittings to the filter head? I really like the idea. TIA
@@indylive4926 just JB Weld, and I let it cure for 4 days before any attachments to the brass (tef taped and tightened the flare adapter union into that brass fitting before epoxy ing it to the plastic head. The nice thing about the male flare fitting is that I can use hydraulic or AN type swivel 90° fuel line fittings to gently get any angle entry or exit I want. If you give me an email address I'll send pics of the system I tossed together. I cannot seem to attach pics in this forum 🥺
That's an easy to make interesting design, I,ll have to add one of those in.
Id use a collesiong filter from tip tools before the dryer to save on the beads. Their metal water trap pipe setup is easy to make and works very well, i never even get moisture in the initial water trap.
That’s a great idea; very resourceful and inventive. I wondered why you didn’t just use a cylinder of aluminium mesh at the bottom? Because of turbulence I suspect your small holes may well create a restriction, even if their combined area is greater than 3/8”. Also, at the top, it looked as though the 3/4” pipe might well fit over the lid duct without a fitting. Either that or perhaps the fitting could do with bushing. Finally, I found myself unable to spend 22 minutes watching this without skipping forward. I found the pace to be too slow for me, excruciatingly so at times. As an exercise, why not try editing that down to a six minute video and see what you end up with? Assembly sections after explaining, if included, are often better played at a faster speed. Feedback is well intentioned. Nice job. 👍
If the holes you drilled in the bottom of the coupling are 1/16" in diameter you would need 31 of them to equal the same area as a 3/8" diameter pipe fitting
Each time a stream of air or water changes direction , expands or contracts there is some head loss dependent on the flow velocity-squared. In this case the change of air flow is from the 3/8 inch pipe to many small holes, each having a inlet and exit loss factor, but the velocity is the critical factor. The more holes the better as velocity would drop significantly. I think that if he had fabricated a 1" tall x 3/4 in diameter stainless steel screen at the bottom of the PVC pipe instead of the PVC coupler with holes it would have been better, but if you have pressure to spare, you aren't concerned about a little pressure loss.
Gosh...
How did this work out? I'm looking for a water separator/drier for an HVLP paint gun. For probably 15-45 minutes of compressor run time (@5hp, 9cfm/40psi, 7cfm/90psi). Which seems well below your mentioned weeks/months between servicing it. (I'd be happy if I could get 1-2 days of painting between drying the desiccant; I paint very infrequently)
Any feeling on it it'd be good enough for painting?
I'm not sure if desiccant absorbs quickly enough to dry constant flowing air? But this is really appealing.
Another question:
In rejuvenating my silica gel, which is better:
The vacuum chamber, or the oven?
If the vacuum is fine, I need only to draw that in the housing, and need not even remove the silica gel from it.
I've been using the oven and it has worked well. Just make sure to keep the temp down about 250
So how do you change the Celica beads because when you pull that canister off and refill it you go to put it back on the bees are going to go right up that tube
I like your solution.
I went parallel, but instead of your cannister, I went with a 4.5" x 20" " Whole House " housing I got at Home Depot.
Additionally, I discovered a re-fillable cartridge, Hydronix EC-4520W White Empty Water Filter Cartridge Durable Construction for Pre Post, Fits Standard Housings 4.5" x 20" at Amazon for $20.00, which I intend to fill with bulk silica gel beads.
Now, I like your PVC solution a bit better as it directs the airflow all the way to the bottom of the column, and it has no other route than to completely pass through the entire charge of desiccant media.
One question:
Is the silica gel the best? There are others.
And Grainger has it in bulk for cheap.
Thanks!
Mark
The silica gel beads are the only desiccant I have used, so no info about other options
@@TheFossilFiend Cool man.
Ok, just got the refillable cartridge in, and much to my surprise, it also delivers to the bottom of the column forcing total filtration all the way up the media, just like yours.
I see a sand blast cabinet in your shop. This is probably the task that uses more air volume than anything else in my shop. How many hours of sand blasting can you perform before having to recharge the desiccant?
Yes, I used to have a sand blasting cabinet, but I didnt use it for true "sand blasting" . It was used for micro air-abrasion which is way less air volume than true sand blasting. I havent kept an hour-meter on this air drier, but depending on how heavy I use it for my fossil preparation, it lasts from weeks to months before needing to be changed.
Clever use of a water filter. I may try that!
Nice Idea. My compressor outputs 175 so I had to build one out of Galvanized pipe. I used a piece of aluminum screen wrapped around the holes I made at the bottom, tie wrapped it in place and epoxied it on the end and the seam of the screen. Works like a champ with ZERO desiccant extracted thru the holes. I did however use this on my smaller compressor I use for air brushing and thank you for the idea. I did however employ my screening to filter the holes. Works great too.
Glad you found some value in the video! Thanks for watching.
@Anon Imous Interesting building your own for higher pressure out of all metal components. Did you find plans online somewhere for this? How do you observe the color of the desicant so you know when to recharge?
The problem with compressed gas is that it expands explosively when suddenly released. Water filters are designed for water under pressure. If they fail it is not a problem because the water is not compressed and the pressure is relieved instantly. Your life and health are precious. Rebuild this with a real pressure vessel.
you're half right. Gases compress but they DO NOT "violently" expand. Thats the nature of the vessel. Youre assuming that a vessel created to with 125psi as a constant (plus engineering safety percentage) is not capable of handling 80psi as an occasional pressure. PLease do not build this desiccant filter. I even state that in the beginning of the video. Informational purposes only.
Those cans are well rated. It is only an issue for those that cannot evaluate their components.
Well done. Great presentation. Thanks for the information.
I need this air dryer to complete my shop air system.
I'm now ordering parts to complete my system.
I should be up and running in a few days.
Sand blasting, auto painting, air tools.
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve made one of these out of A execlon 4000 clear PVC and 3” diameter PVC. But I like the idea of using an off the shelf products.
So I’m making one for my airbrush booth.
My only concern is getting the length of the PVC exact. There’s an O ring inside the screw on top. So both gasket and o ring must be compressed.
Approx. how of the desiccant does it require to fill it up?
Until it is full.
OK, so in through the out door, got it!
Did you have a link for you manifold block, I didn't see that?
Thx!
thank you catching that! I just added it to the description. Its not a amazon item, but I threw away several of those and bought this one. I've been very happy with it. No issues with leaking, out-of-spec port threads here.
How frequent do you change your silica gel? And do do re use it after drying up?
I change it out when there is just little bit of blue color left at the top level. Absolutely re-use it! Dry it out in an oven, then store it in a sealed container. I like to use the original jugs the silica beads wear shipped in. I have them measured out now so that each one has just enough to refill the chamber.
Thanks for this video. It is exactly what I was after, and I found a robust secondhand unit on facebook marketplace for $10. I lok forward to building my one, once I can actually get into my workshop(!) as it is massively overcrowded with too much stuff....
Great build. I plan to put one together for my system. Thanks for the info and links.
I’ve made one of these out of A execlon 4000 clear PVC and 3” diameter PVC. But I like the idea of using an off the shelf products.
So I’m making one for my airbrush booth.
My only concern is getting the length of the PVC exact. There’s an O ring inside the screw on top. So both gasket and o ring must be compressed.
The desiccant should be first, followed by a particulate filter and coalescing filter. You can put your pressure regulator at the end or before. But some of these filters require a minimum psi to work so I put the regulator after everything.
Putting the regulator last also prevents any output pressure variations due to restriction and flow rate changes.
If you're using a lot of air in a humid climate the Harbor Freight air drier seems to have good reviews and reasonable price
$550 is reasonable? Nothing from that store is worth that much.
How is this going? Still working good?
Works fabulous 👌
So when you talk about your holes - I’m a little confused . How many holes did you drill. 1/8th” drill bit ??
Thanks
I don't remember how many I drilled. Just make sure its plenty so you aren't creating an air restriction
@@TheFossilFiend and what about clear vs. Blue ?? If I need to get clear I will . Amazon was over $50 plus wrench . I paid $16 or $19 with wrench at Menards - clearance
And thank you so very much for your reply
@jeffreyeiford2750 did you make sure to read the pressure rating? The specific model I use and link to in the description is rated for 120 or 125 which gives a good safety margin above my working pressure.
@@TheFossilFiend I will purchase the one you listed and here is the set up I bought before I saw your video If I can figure out how to post it Ha ha
It’s a NANPU 3/8 NPT Air DRYING SYSTEM
It would be based upon your consumption.
If you use a lot of air like I do, you need a lot of holes.
if you are just shooting paint.... not so much.
since its install how well has that modification been working?
Its fabulous! I'm completely happy with it.
Those canisters for the beads, what pressure rating are they?
Every manufacturer is different. This one (which is linked in the description) is rated for 120psi. I only run my air at 80psi so I have plenty of safety room
@@TheFossilFiend Thanks
@@TheFossilFiend
But your not running it at 80. Your running full compressor pressure on that housing. Your regulator is after that filter.
@a807511 wrong. There is an output regulator on the compressor
Dumb question. Did you use any glue for the slip joints on the pvc?
no, the joints are tight enough to not fall apart
I love your resourcefulness and creativity. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! 😊
Great idea just ordered mine! Hey what wrench was that you used to tighten the canister?
It's a pentek spanner wrench. Glad you enjoyed the video!
I really enjoyed your video. The 3/8" double male you mentioned is properly known as a pipe coupler.
A double male would actually be a nipple or if it's over ( I think it's 12 in but it might be 10) 12 in is just called pipe
A female on both ends would be a coupler
@@bretk7916 Thank you for correcting me.
@5:25 or you could hot glue some wire messh over that gapeing hole on the inside of the cap.
That would be a good option too. 👍
A thought occurred when looking the housing up. What about using a second one as an air filter? The filter cartridges are commonly available, come in various levels of particle size filtration, and are pretty cheap.
You could do that. I still needed a regulator, so that's why I went the option I used. The silica gel drier works more efficiently at higher pressure, which is why I wanted to put it in front of the reg.
@@TheFossilFiend but didn't the SAU330-N03G-MEP come with a regulator? I assumed you discarded it when you used the filter/regulator... but the idea of using a second cartridge holder which is $40 . Or am I not understanding something?
@@artdeco5464 The original filter/reg combo, yes it had a reg as the 3rd item. The total design I created has several reasons. I wanted to higher pressure in the silica drier because its more efficient that way. The original reg didnt have a filter with it and I wanted a final filter before going into my tools and my comco blaster. There was no way to mount the original reg without being joined to the original 3-part combo. Since I needed another reg AND another filter AND I didnt want to make this contraption any bigger, I chose the final parts I did.
Hopefully that explained the reasons?
Generally the water drops out of solution at a pressure drop. So if you drop the pressure after the dryer you get dryer air.
Every day here is humid. It’s the subtropics. 80 and up humidity is the standard here. I don’t have a desiccant filter, yet. As easy as the reducers screwed into the pentek I suspect they aren’t npt threads.
Awesome video! Thx
Glad you liked it!
Could you recommend a smaller Pentek then the 150071 that would be good in a small 2 car garage workshop and doesn't require as much desiccant.Don't spray much but like your setup but only smaller.Thanks
158214 is a 5in tall unit with 1/2in pipe fittings. They also do 3/8 and 1/4 pipe fitting units, but as @TheFossilFiend pointed out in the video, the smaller fittings likely imply more restricted passages inside. You should note that Pentek does not rate these units for compressed air, only liquid. The risk you take is on you.
My question for you - do I need to use a clear Pentex ??? I bought a blue one CHEAP !! It’s just not clear .
Thanks so much for your answer
The whole point of the clear container is that you can see when you need to change the media. If you are going blind, then you might as well make it from a steel tube and eliminate the weakness of using a plastic.
@@TheFossilFiend ok thanks - I’ll return it and get a clear one
I really appreciate your help
Why not to reverse the flow and no need for the Brillo !???
then you would be pushing air top to bottom. moisture settles, so its better to have it enter low and work its way up through the desiccant. gives you a more defined line of remaining dry desiccant.
Very helpful thx
What PSI are you running?
depends entirely on the tool I'm using.
Maybe I missed it in the video but why did you run the air backwards through the water filter? You ran the air in through the “out” port so it runs down through the center pipe and out through the large opening. Running it the other way would make the steel scrubber pad unnecessary. No doubt that your system work as designed. I just haven’t been able to come up with a reason for the reverse orientation on the water filter.
Its a good question, that I probably didnt explain in the video. Basically its a refill indicator! It will work effectively if run the normal routing (top to bottom) but you won't get the indication line of how much good silica is remaining. Bottom to top, the air must slowly rise through and dry, turning the silica color by the color indicator. If you run top to bottom, the moisture is constantly going down so it will be a constant change over all of it.
Seems good in theory. Without a Before:After measurement of water content or the "issue", the efficacy is unknown (yet that's common on YT)
Wrong. If you re-watch the video, I never claimed the original desiccant filter wasn't effectively drying the air. I said that I was needing to change the media once or more per day. This mod is completely about a larger volume that won't require daily changes
It ain't theory.
You’re asking for trouble with that water filter in a compressed air system
Yes, please re-read the warning at the start of the video.
been using a similar one i made daily for over 3 years at 135psi and have had zero issues.
@@qwikv6 overtime. It will become a problem if you notice any filter with a poly carbonate bowl always has a metal guard around it.
It’s on the filter to protect people from the shattering plastic that is going to happen
Eventually. It’s not the air pressure. It’s the lubricant that attacks the plastic.
@@rotarycomptech like I said 3+ years and it's been fine. the amount of lubricant that makes it to me desiccant filter should be pretty close to zero considering the only lubricant is the oil in the compressor and there's a tank and atleast 2 filters before the desiccant which is at the opposite end of the loop. this isn't exposed PVC. and yes I'm sure they put the metal guards around the typical ones because you know someone somewhere will do something dumb and try to sue. I could always fab up a little sheet metal cage if that makes you feel better.
@@rotarycomptech I believe the cage is more to prevent the bowl from being impacted, rather than to contain shrapnel.
The silica gel, doesn’t it expand when it absorbs moisture?
If yes, I would probably only put about 1/2-3/4 full for expansion.
Nice tutorial.
no, no expansion.