HERE IS THE LIST OF PARTS USED ON THIS BUILD! The tubing was cut to 72" to utilize the most space in that area. You want to have at least 40-50' of copper for this system to be effective. Here is the parts list for the Air Dryer , starting at the compressor 1x - 2 1/2" 3/4" brass nipple (Sioux Chief 17700324) 1x - 3/4" brass street elbow (female and male end) 1x - 3/4" brass ball valve threaded (both female ends) 1x - 3/4" Rapid Air Compressed Air Jumper Hose (Part # F0215) 1x - 3/4" Male Adapter (Nibco 604 3/4" to 3/4" threaded) 10x - 3/4" 90° Copper Elbow (Nibco 607) 3x - 3/4" Copper Tee (Nibco 611) 3x - 3/4" to 1/2" Male adapter (Nibco 604 3/4" to 1/2" threaded) 3x - 1/2" Ball Valves threaded (both female ends) 4x - 3/4" Copper pipe Type L ( I cut these to 72" for the main height) 9x - 3/4" Copper pipe in 2" pieces 1x - 3/4" Brass Compression fitting (to the regulator) 1x - 3/4" Rapid Air NPT Filter Regulator (K93217) The piping after the regulator was set up with 3 end points, one for my blasting cabinet 125 psi at all times, one for my tools and one for the paint gun. The paint side has a DeVilbiss 130502 Desiccant snake, a regulator, high flow fittings and a Devilbiss Rhi-01 Relative Humidity Indicator.
Busted Classic Garage I’ve pretty much built the same thing minus the manifold. I don’t do any painting. Just air tools. It’s been laying in my garage floor for about 2 weeks lol. To many projects going on plus work. I didn’t realize how much this was going to cost until I was to far into it😳. Damn thing cost as muck as my 60 gal compressor lol. Nice video man 👍
I'll try to at some point David. I have a ton of videos to get edited at the moment, but not a lot of time to finish them. I think the only thing that I would change about the design would be to have all three valves go into one.
While I can see what you did and the parts you used, I can't understand the theory behind it, or why you'd need to use 50' of copper (and all those fittings!) Surely you could just do a pressure drop into a small auxiliary tank (like from an old portable compressor that died) and put a single drain at the bottom? If you were super motivated you could fill it with aluminum honeycomb or similar to provide more surface area for condensate without going to all that expense. I have to say though - cracking job in fabricating the design you went with. Quality work fella.
As a professional HVAC, plumber and pipe fitter, to say I’m impressed with your piping skills would be an understatement. Although there are more expedient ways to fit and solder copper piping, most likely because it wouldn’t have made financial sense to buy that specific additional tooling, you understand the importance of the word “plumb” more than most of the guys in my field... Very well done sir...
Thank you John! The comments are really mixed for this video and it's nice to get some very positive feedback once in a while! I know some of it was a little overkill but I like to build it once and be done with it. It's not worth it for me to take shortcuts and have to do things twice, time is too precious to waste!
Wanted to add my thanks! I built a like system and currently using it to seal and prime my 56 Chevy in the humidity of Louisiana. The system is working flawlessly!
About 8 months later form my research and I'm about ready to build my copper piping cooling system and this clip has been on my mind all along. You've done your job well, is what I'm saying. Hats off.
I learned that Theory about 25 years ago when learning to carve/etch glass. The same problem/issue with water and paint pertains to blasting media. THEY HATE EACH OTHER.I also use a toilet paper filter at the very end. I love it. I live in North Carolina so the humidity is not bad but I learned this from a carver in Florida that had been using it for years. I'm sure mine was cheaper to build then ,than yours was. .but it is all relitave,I also made less $ then.Im sure you will love it. I'm an old guy so I didn't like the music but that's just me,and I'm sure there are trademark issues with music.
Humidity not too bad in NC? Regularly in 70-80%+ range. Your version of not too bad is different than mine though compared to Florida yes, almost need scuba gear to breath in FL sometimes. That last little filter at the end is cheap insurance and well worth it in my book. I buy extras. I blast and paint.
I say filter the crap out of it till you see a reduction in cfm's or pressure. Filters (for almost anything) are cheaper than the consequences of NOT filtering. Also another trick or mod to this type of system is to put a ball valve at the lowest parts ( it will pool there)I have 4. But I am VERY fortunate and I have a lot of space.You just bleed every time you walk by. And yes I hear people whine about humidity, Then they go on vacation to Miami and that changes things I someone is on a budget and time is not a factor,you can check construction sites.It is almost pathetic the things thrown away. They say it is cheaper to throw it away than to store it,so go dumpster diving and save a ton of cabbage. ( just talk to the super intendant first, and don't leave a mess.you will be amazed how nice they are. I was an electrician and had supers saving stuff for me.
@@oldcrookedfingercollins1417 I live in NC currently. Air in a hose laying on concrete will condense in the hose. I'm sure that phenomena would be worse in Miami , Memphis or St. Louis but it happens in Charlotte too. It only takes a few drops to kill a paint job or make a clump in a abrasive blaster. I once built a very nice large dog house out of wood tossed by contractors into a dumpster. Had a papered and shingled roof too. I have heard stories about some pretty good stuff in dumpsters at Lowes and Home Depot also. Treasure is were you find it if you are willing to look. Be safe out there crocked finger.
That is exactly why I had to use that music. Because the original audio had music in the background and I would have had over two dozen copyright infringement issues.
Your attention to detail is pretty awesome, I worked for a Ingersol Rand portable Diesel compressor company 25 years ago and learned a for amount about large volumes of air. And high and low pressure compressor differences. And I have had my own engine rebuild shop, and now CNC machine shop.... And have dealt with compressed air a lot.... The challenge with drying air is to understand a few different things. #1 - what pressure do you need.....and most importantly what CFM do you need at that pressure. The zig zag back and forth you built back and forth out of non-finned copper line is fine if you use almost now CFM..... Such as painting only. If you were to have someone run that sand blaster non-stop for let's say 30 minutes most basic $1000 and under garage compressors your compressor would never shut off running a Bastet and your copper line temp drop across those few lines would be almost nothing. And the water build up would be uncontrollable. The tank and air line temp would be out of control. The zig zag is a waste of time and money. What you need to do is much more simple.... First remove the air line off the compressor head manifold that goes to the tank ....and run it across the as far away as you can to an air dryer that is at least 50% bigger in CFM volume then you compressor puts out. Then box your shop in a overhead square up high so there are no dead end air runs.....then where ever you need drops plump up first then then turn 90 degrees back down ( water doesn't like to go up ) then plumb from your dryer back to the compressor tank then the check valve...... Now your tank will never even get warm if everything is sized right. Then plumb from your tanks discharge supply valve to your over head square box with all needed drop downs ( you can add drops under each drop supplies with electric moisture blow off's to make sure there is no water build up. ) if the dryer is big enough there will be no water. Remember air conditioned shops require smaller dryers .... Non air conditioned shops in humid areas need MASSIZE dryers sometimes 4 times bigger in CFM rating past compressor output . I have a system in my shop I personally built to keep dry air flowing to my CNC spindles so the lower spindle bearing that sees a constant 5 CFM of air flow at 90 psi to keep high pressure coolant from back splashing into the bearing. My compressor puts out about 40 CFM at 90 psi...... And much less CFM at 175 psi. This is a great video but Compressed air drying is much more complex and this example would only work with very low air volume. Blaster cabinets require much more cooling then this system would provide. ( this example is more towards painting only ) but you should still add a electric dryer. And auto blow off valves. If your air storage tank gets really warm or heaven forbid ( Hot ). You are going to have trouble. IndyDan
Dan Turen - Man I have a lot to learn! So for only painting...this system will work? I'm about to buy a compressor and want to do it right. Still new to all this. Thanks! :)
Really cool system and video ! I am a retired Woodworker between shops at the moment and i’m hoping my next place will be set up for both Woodworking and Automotive repair and painting hopefully utilizing one Compressor to run it all so i’m just kind of getting ideas fromUA-camrs like you at this moment
Fine word Amigo, I have 1 thing to share. If the line from your compressor to your first copper run connects at the top and same with your last copper run its a good way to make sure any water/condensation remains only in the copper pipes. Just info for u to do whatever with. Great vid
I've been soldering wires and electronics successfully since I was 14 and I'm north of 60 now but have always struggled with getting nice looking copper pipe sweating. I saw that you keep the hear much farther away from the open end of the connector than I ever did. Will give that a try. I've always cleaned the metal bright because it will never work with less than perfectly clean copper and always used a good flux but got ugly joints. Thanks for the tip!
So I watched this video about 6 months ago and since then I've always told myself "I need to make myself a set up like this". Well the day has finally come that it is going to get made. Thanks for the great video and the parts list in the other comments!
I separated the belt driven pump from the tank. Put the pump & motor on one side of the shop and the tank on the other side of the shop ( good 60' ) then ran the line on the floor along the wall behind cabinets and benches and such between the 2. Always way cooler along the floor. More material compared to time invested. Haven't had a single drop.
I thought leaks and fitings that don't work out ONLY happend to me. Your much more meticulous than me and it even happend to you. Nice to see I'm not alone.
Really like the way you take the time to think thru projects and attempt to do it right the first time....right down to using level. Keep up the good work.
keep your videos comeing,i want to see more videos,,your lucky ,down there old cars are alot cheaper to buy , up here in canada every body thinks their cars are made of gold,have a nice day
nice job, I like the attention to detail with all the male and female adaptors clocked the same, and all the union nuts and quick adaptors done the same. TWO THUMBS UP. now you need to grow a proper mullet to drive a 70's F body.
Dude! OMG.... this is the best video on youtube. If for nothing less, you just taught people how to take pride in their work! You even busted out a freaking level for a support block.
I love the videos and your attitude. It is way too easy to take yourself too seriously. You have just the right balance. I am working on a 72 short bed of my own. I am getting a lot of inspiration from all of your videos. Thank you.
Actually for an exit pipe out of a compressor tank your best option is stainless steel because it doesn’t rust or corrode in anyway and it’s way stronger than anything else. Yeah it’s pricey but what do you want perfect There it is besides whatever you use use good filtration. Great show man… Keep on rockin…
@@BustedClassicGarage You're welcome. I've done a few videos myself, mostly when UA-cam was in its infancy. Took more time to make the video than the project I was working on 🤣
I'm gonna steal this design on my new set up. Won't need 50' of copper tubing however... I have an 16 pass copper/aluminum fin condenser (pre-tank) going from the condenser into your design with the copper tubes and water catch areas at the bottom, from there into an air filter/water separator with a plunger style auto-drain and from that! Finally, into the 60 gallon storage tank. My reasoning behind all this, is I don't want to replace the tank lol. And I paint as well, so coming OUT of the compressor I may have a desiccant dryer specifically for painting... I feel like after all that, it would just be overkill BUT! I'll try it and see if the desiccant stays dry or not.
I built the same thing about 3 years ago. The trick I added to mine is an orifice within the supply line leaving the compressor where it enters the copper pipe.. so the air has a rapid expansion entering the radiator. It helped tremendously! Then I added a cyclonic water separator and large motor guard filter. I just change the toilet paper as it needs it. Or before starting a big job requiring a lot of air.. like running the blast cabinet, spraying, running the plasma table etc.. I like this type of system because it's basically maintenance free.. only additional changes I'm planning is an automatic drain system that drains the compressor tank as well as the copper manifold.
Too funny!!!! You are the first person that has actually given me a compliment on the music in this video. Most people are really upset about it... LMAO!
that's because people click on to see / learn what you're doing, most people have radios. narrate as you go, or put it in the computer and overdub what you're doing. no disrespect to you.
Using the compressor pulley fan to draw air through is lovely. I'm adding a small home built 1 hp compressor run off my off grid PV to keep my 500 gallon tank topped up and your video has been most helpful. It will run for long periods. I was wondering how well your float type drain has worked out over time. I need either that or on of the timer/electric types. Thank you! Bruce M
All I have on there is some ball valves, but it might be a good idea to put on some kind of Auto drain in the future. The system does what it's designed to do and I haven't had any issues with it so far.
Awesome video bud! might do the same but in 1/2". and at the bottom, I'll connect all 3 valve connection to one valve. to keep the cost down... copper fittings are super expensive now.
You obviously know what you are doing. My favorite part is showing the corroded inside of a steel pipe. I would never use black or galvanized pipe. Sch. 80 PVC will handle the pressure but if it ruptures, you have shards that injure. 3/4 in. Copper is great and I like the double kill of using Teflon tape with pipe sealant. Yes, 40 to 50 ft. run is minimum. You are far better than average !
Enjoyed this video. Just mad a manifold like this for my new air compressor. Mine doesn't look that good tho lol. Good job! Where did you find the hose that go from air compressor to manifold ?
When air is compressed it heats up and water is formed. You need to cool the compressed air back down to room temperature to get the moisture out. Hot air will flow in and out of a dryer and drop its moisture down stream on your paint. Mounting an air filter on the side of the compressor tank is a waste of time. The filter needs to be as far from the compressor as possible. Mount a box fan on your compressor so it blows across the motor and compressor, wire it so it comes on with the compressor. Putting another fan on your copper coils would help too. Run the air line from the tank up to the ceiling first, then down, make the water drain back to your tank. I get very little water in my lines by using a box fan on my compressor and routing the output line straight up
Nice job man. This is an entertaining and informative.video; just what I was looking for on how to set up an air system for my garage. These air system are going to cost more than a damm compressor if you want to do it right...especially for spray painting. Keep'em comming!
Thanks Shane! The cost isn't too bad for this system, but it can very quickly add up. Perfect example a desiccant snake vs a DeVilbiss Desiccant Air Drying System, it's only a $1000 difference...
I build this air dryer but decided to attach the dryer in between the compressor head and tank. worked great until today the copper got too hot and blew out the first solder joint. was this a poor decision on my end or is the compressor too hot? maybe i should attach the separator after the tank?
Question, I got a question.........I was going to do this with PVC pipe would it still work? If I do this in copper is there a flux I must apply or is it in the solder already? I need to protect my plasma cutter which already took a dump on me 2 times and dont feel like paying $2400 for another one. This video was helpful and I also ordered a cooler to attach to my portable compressor. Thanks
@@BustedClassicGarage Thanks. I have PVC already and wanted to do a setup to try for a month. I went to shop for copper and was about $200 for about 40 feet total and fittings. Thanks for the input.
That music at around 9:20 is awesome. At first I thought it was gonna be some generic BS canned metal licks. No, these guys have the groove and while obviously influenced by great classic metal, they really do have the feel in with some to give away.
I appreciate the copper air lines. This is how I'm going to run air in my shop also. I understand what you're doing with the six vertical pipes to condense the moisture and the valves at the bottom to remove it. I'm confused by all the connections at the end. It would be great if you had summarized at the end what you did and how it's supposed to work.
Everything after the regulator I built with a specific purpose for my setup. I could have just ran 1 copper pipe to a couple quick disconnects. The reason I overcomplicated it is because I wanted to have three different endpoints. I wanted to have 125 psi at all times from the main rapid air regulator to go to my blasting cabinet with a shut off valve, that way I never have to worry about air delivery by having to turn down the regulator or having to hook up an air hose to the blasting cabinet. The top connections were regulated down to 90 PSI with two quick disconnects for air tools. The paint connections have air flow in mind, all the quick disconnect were high flow, I made the desiccant snake easily removable to dry the desiccant in an oven once it got saturated with moisture. Also I routed the copper in a way where I could install an actual desiccant filter system in the future. So it just really depends on what you need at the outlet. You could get away with using a hose with high-flow fittings with a desiccant snake in between and you could bring down your psi on the main rapid air regulator and then regulate down also at the paint guns gauge. I hope that helps. Also I did just upload a paint booth build video, be sure to check that out. Thanks for watching!
"Over-complicate". That describes me as well. It looks really good. Thanks for the clarification. I'm hoping it works great. Oh and I did just watch the paint booth vids. Great job! I'll look out for more of your content.
The Galvanized steel valves will cause hysteresis. Brass with copper is a better choice and does not have the dissimilar metal corrosion problem. I know it's more money but 2 bucks per valve is nothing in the long run. The workmanship was excellent. I was surprised to see you DID use brass on the rest of the valves. I just installed black pipe out of my tank and after seeing your video and the corrosion issue I am thinking I may need to re-address that issue in the near future. sigh. Liked, subscribed and noti's.........Peace.
@@BustedClassicGarage I also was wondering after a re-visit why you did not install a union on some of those items that may need maintenance on them for easy quick removal and no ferrule replacement on your brass fittings..... or where they flared? A secondary point about the steel fittings. I do motorcycle repairs and Tank Sealer works miracles on steel. Coating that nipple would basically eliminate the corrosion issue, but, it has to be the full interior length without missing any spots. Not Hard just tape one end with some really GOOD Duct Tape, pour in an oz or 2 of the sealer, Tape other end, work it around inside back and forth very well, pull off one end of the tape, drain excess and let it set for 4 days to cure. End of corrosion problems.
@@anonimous2451 Honestly the main reason I probably didn't use unions was to save money. And it's pretty easy to resweat the joint if I really need to. I actually just remove the system from that wall because I moved to a farm house and it would've made it a little bit easier if I had put a Union between the air dryer and air filter but I got it moved no problem, just had to be extra careful about it.
Ah 2018, I remember you. Back when you could run copper tubing throughout a workshop without having to consider taking a 2nd mortgage out to pay for it.
Great video Man that's right to the point. Love your dog to exlent moment with the music it sat really well for me, I'm hoping to try find some of the tunes you used to listen to myself . Do you play music? As at one point I thought I wonder is this tune performed by you ? & your place looks cool to . Hey bro things break hey it happens to me to, and im thinking what next ? its frustrating . But for what you do its worth it. Same with me bro. It's very much worth it, I think that's why I think like that. Make nearly anything with the RND and experience of different trade's .
Thanks man! Check out the riff over the Busted Intro in the newest vid. That's a part from one of my songs. I have bits and pieces sprinkled throughout. ua-cam.com/video/Qdig_Qcas5E/v-deo.html
First off, great video, and workmanship. Now for the meat ,and potatoes. Coming from, and still in the air compressor business as a field service technician for all brands of air compressors, driers, and filtration for over 20 years,.. you effectively built a after cooler for the discharge air. Yes the receiver tank will also act as a after cooler too. However, all your copper tubing is at the mercy of your ambient temp of your garage. Other considerations are relative humidity. On high humid days, you will increase condensate output from the discharge air, and how much demand you draw from the compressor. The more the compressor runs, the more hot wet air it will produce. Especially on humid days. There is a reason why refrigerated driers are used. They cool the air to around 36 to 39 degrees. ( which is a good common low dew point for most compressed air systems) Do you think your piping system will get that low in temp? (Well it probably will in the winter time) Please don’t get me wrong here, I am not hating on your system, or you. Just putting out a little more information on air systems. If you have access to a dew point monitor, or hydrometer, measure the dew point at the point of discharge on you system. You will see what I am explaining. There is a lot more involved on this topic, which I do not have time to get into now. Keep up the great work, and good luck with you projects.
I have dealt with high moisture especially when the compressor is running consistently. I will at some point add an aftercooler between the pump and tank. Thanks for watching and the info.
Pierce, I am glad you posted this, I really like what he has done here. However, I have had the same concerns that you have listed. Let me ask you, if I build a piping basically like his but instead enclose it, (box in in some type of way), leaving only an opening large enough to vent a 5000 BTU window A/C, allowing this cold air from the A/C to have a steady supply of cold air over and through these home built pipes? Though it will not be in the thirties , but maybe if I am lucky the 40s or low 50'. Would this described set up be of benefit? I hope you see this as I really would like your advice. Thanks very much. Phillip Hall
@@BustedClassicGarage Excellent and educational video. I'm about to dive into fixing this same moisture issue in my shop, for sand blasting and painting. Out of curiosity, what factored into your decision to make the copper separator rather than an aftercooler b/tw the pump and tank? Interested to hear pros / cons from your experience and others'.
Very well documented build... Well done and thank you for sharing it. I appreciate the honesty in you sharing what worked, the parts list, what could have been better as well as the motivating music! One suggestion would be to include a snap shot view of the whole system in one picture... BTW how is is performing for your various uses?
Great video man, I had a few questions, but since since you're really on top of it with all these other questions I've already found my answers. That deserves a thanks in itself! Looking forward to checi=king out what all other videos you'v got. Only thing that'd make this video even better, in my opinion, would be to explain more of the theory, and the whys, bhind the hows. But again, you answer all these quetions so well and thoroughly I now know all the whys that I need to know. Can we get a video on that fiinger snap/point, to instantly install our fittings? If I were you, and knew how to do that sh***** I'd leave the solder and teflon far behind! Must learn! hahaha
Hahaha! Thanks man! I just ran into your comment sorry for the late reply. Funny you were giving me props on getting back to people and here we are 2 years later. Lol I'm looking to do an update video so I'm cruising through the comments for some questions I can answer. Is there any other questions you had?
I would suggest using AquaPex, made by Uponor, instead of copper for a couple of very good reasons. 1. The AquaPex tubing does not condensate anywhere close to what copper does, thus dryer lines. 2. Cheaper....way cheaper. 3. Easier by far, pretty sure this job would have taken me less than a day to plumb the whole shop. In saying that I do appreciate the attention to detail, but using copper is not the best option for air lines. It is a testament to your talent since it was still interesting and entertaining!
Thanks for the video which I have found really useful. And to questioners who raise valid points. I'm a DIY classic car enthusiast just recently 'discovered' air power & am preparing for my first respray this year. Also discovering some pitfalls to avoid. I do have a couple of questions though 1] about pipe length and diameter. It would appear that (assuming other conditions constant) longer pipe runs increase performance (up until last tap is dry?) - so I assume a smaller diameter pipe would need even longer runs - so proportional to inner surface area? 2] a questioner mentioned installing an 'orifice' (a wider pipe or plenum?) before the 'intercooler' to allow rapid expansion of air...since I do not know how wet pressurised air behaves, is there some 'theory' behind that addition? Have not seen that mentioned before. Had not seen a dessicant pipe before so will check that out too. Thanks again for sharing your experience & your time & effort to put this together. G
If you cruise over to my Instagram or Facebook page (link in the description) I have some pictures of the whole system there. I get the most water out of the left valve and it decreases as it goes down the line.
What are some good brand names for filter/dessicant-dryers? I'm looking at a Campbell Hausfeld comb and PneumaticPlus - both 130$ price range. Also, technical question. For a run and gun system (fixing a panel, varnishing some furniture) would a 25 ft hose (maybe an ice bucket) and one of those cheaper systems that I mention be enough? I wold assume so. I'm a once in a blue moon warrior (not even weekend) and I'm looking for a good system to varnish and paint. My compressor is a 27 gallon 1.9 hp Powermate.
A couple years ago I walked into Eastwood Alsip planning on spending $500 on a particle/desiccant filter system, after a conversation with the manager I had a way better understanding and a lot better game plan. At some point I'll buy a desiccant system from Eastwood or Devilbiss but for right now with the amount of painting that I'm doing the desiccant snake is way more than enough. So what I would suggest is to buy a good quality low Micron particle filter and moisture separator and then just plumb up a desiccant snake to your lines. Once the desiccant snake it's full of moisture you can set it outside on a really hot day or even put it in your oven at a very low temperature to dry it out. As far as making a very cheap system that would be efficient I would get at least 50 feet of hose (from comp to moisture/particle filter) and then have it go through a decent moisture separator filter and a desiccant snake. Rapid air does have a couple different moisture separator regulators like mine but with smaller 1/2" inlets and Outlets. But just keep in mind whenever you're building something try to build for the future, that way when you upgrade you don't have to redo it. That's the main reason why I chose the rapid air filter because of it but it's high PSI and I ran 3/4 inch piping all the way through the system. Because once I step up to a 2-stage 80 gallon compressor I'm not going to have any restrictions in my system.
Also if you do go the route of buying a desiccant filter and not a snake make sure there's parts available for it. Because I know the cheaper Devilbiss filter is actually getting discontinued and there's not going to be any parts available for any more.
for those that want to try to use pvc pipe as an inexpensive replacement for copper, keep in mind that pvc conducts heat very poorly so you would need a much larger cooling grid that could be 3 times the size of a copper grid.
This method of copper pipe works great, but to those interested, the other method you see well documented in the internet of using a trans cooler is much better. Here's why. Aside from the enormous amount of cost, work, and leak failure points for this method, look at the physics. The copper pipe is nearly against the wall which reduces air flow dramatically. A small trans cooler like the common Derale 15300 used in the other videos has 16 ft of tube (I bet you didn't realize that), and it is finned, and exposed on all sides. (Ever see baseboard heating without fins? Of course not). It is at least 2x efficient as unfinned pipe against wall. Then add a small fan and it is at least 3x efficient as copper pipe against the wall. That means a small 12"x12" cooler is equal to 48 ft of copper pipe against your wall. Lastly, who has so much wall space to kill? No disrespect to this guy who did an awesome job, I'm just trying to help people who are considering adding an aftercooler. Either method works extremely well. Whichever method you choose, be sure to install the cooler and a water trap BEFORE your tank to avoid the corrosion he showed in the piping happening in your tank (it's uncoated steel inside).
Hello can you tell me after the regulator. On the 3 end points was this from 3/4 inch copper or 1/2 inch copper then reduced down to 3/8 inch for the airline fittings and regulators.
NIce, very nice. You did a great job! I would like to ask you. When you put this in use, Do you always have water come out 'each' valve when you open them for draining? Thanks a lot........
Yes most of the time. The more the compressor runs or if its very humid outside I get a decent amount of water. Always more closer to the compressor and less further away.
Yeah that shouldn't be a huge issue. The main reason why I chose 3/4" was I didn't want to restrict airflow. Now I know after the filter I went to 1/2" but that gives me the ability in the future to redesign it in a way where I could use a bigger impact gun or tool that requires a lot more volume of air. Build it once!
The biggest thing I've painted was the cab to my truck. With only a 60 gal compressor, I had no issues with running out of air or any moisture. What little moisture might get through gets dried out with the desiccant snake.
@@BustedClassicGarage Thanks. I’ve got a 30 gallon lowes special. 1.8hp. It’s worked fine for me so far (ties, blow gun, impact air tools), but using a 1/4 angle grinder the other day I had water spitting a bunch. Definitely doing the copper pipes this weekend.
Very nice design and work. Like your style. You still use a small dryer at your spray gun right? I've found the rubber hose lying on concrete floor sometimes gets cool enough for condensation to form inside it. If you live in dry climate like Phoenix might not be a problem but in the south or other more humid climate, better use that little dryer at the gun. Every bit of insurance against moisture is worth it. New subscriber.
Double R Restorations thanks man! The editing of this video still gives me nightmares... lol But at least it's done and now I can move on to bigger and better things.
Great video! I made my lines from galvanized ,didn’t think about the crud that could get in the lines from using steel. Question is, thats a three line set up, so for a one line dedicated line for paint I only have to run about a third of what you have here here right? Also I have a Devilbliss dessicant dryer,can I dry that filter out in the oven instead of buying a new filter for 50 dollars? If I can didnt know you could do that. Thanks again great video.
I cut my teeth in body shops and became a full time painter both in body shops as well as industrial nonsense shooting up to 70 gallons a week poisoning my body from soaking it up through my sweat pours etc.. Anyway, nice setup.. Now I have a cabinet shop and would make a similar setup except I no longer paint anything at similar scale, mostly latex these days, occasional oil, but not enough to worry about.. I absolutely get the time thing.. In my shop now I have to run to the dump about once a month just to dispose of all the scrap wood and sawdust and my shop is a holy terror of messes plus I just don't seem to have the ability to throw out anything bigger than a 1x1 that isn't full of knots.. I can't even find a scrap guy to pick up scrap metal if I was still producing it.. The good news is I'm getting too old to keep this foolishness up so I'll probably sell off my equipment before I die of old age and have my kids sell it for themselves.. ;)
Lol, we are all hoarders in some way. I have 5 different HEI distributors... will I ever use them? Probably not, but I have them if I ever need to build 5 engines. Hahaha! The foolishness, I'm right there with you! Thanks for watching Martino!
Thanks jeff lindsey. Once I sprayed that hood and realized that my entire garage was covered in overspray, I decided to build a paint booth... I swear it never ends!
Looks good but I see a flaw in the system. The hose from the tank should be downhill and the connection to the water trap system should be below the level of the tank output port, yours is uphill ( yours is straight up ) witch means that water will flow back into your tank.
Thanks man! I've been thinking of filming a update video soon. I'm happy with the system, it has done what I needed it to do with no failures. Thanks for watching!!!
Check out Easton compressors out of Ohio Awsome mom and pop shop went big.big pistols on there compressors so the run slower and cooler. Also sounds like my motorcycle!
Where do you find 3M paper in Canada? I am in Montreal. I want 216U. Almost everybody seems to carry Gator or Norton. The 216U is formulated for water borne finishes btw.
@@BustedClassicGarage Yeah plus the time for shipping in these crap times. I'll manage. So far Norton ProSand (the 20 sheet contractor pack has been ok - just ok - sand very well but not sure if I got the few fish eyes from it or from using DNA to clean, or from dust contamination, time will tell as I troubleshoot). I wrote Jeff Jewitt the finishes and he said that he tried as many brands a few years ago and found no issues overall; the modern sterates seem to be better he said. Anyway, I'll see. I have some Mirka Gold on the way; that with 216U seem to be the gold standard for water borne finish.
This is not enough also needing a cooler in-between the compressor and the tank. I used a 25fot coil of copper tubing submerged in a bucket. Also put a small clear reservoir at the end where you connect the air line, you will see still there will be some moisture.
Nice work, however it doesn't matter if you use all steel , go to any shop, factory, or school thier air lines are steel and many times 50 years old, rust nodules inside the lines won't hurt unless they break loose, and clog your tools
Very nice build, design and execution BUT- That solder is too soft for >150psi. You need to use a silver solder or braze. Over time you'll be popping elbows/ tees. Also confused by the array of 1/2" tubing and outlets at the end. Some description of what/ why would help. 1/2" there also will restrict your flow a bit if you have a high load like a blaster (1/2" hose should be fed from 3/4").
The half inch fittings are only for the drain valves (for draining collected water) at the bottom of the drip legs. The airflow doesn't go through them. They could be 1/4"
Great video Man. Just what I was looking for. Curious about the desiccant snake? Does that just take place of not needing a desiccant filter with silica additives? Did you get most parts from same place?
Yeah the desiccant snake is basically a cheap way to get the benefits of canister filter with desiccant beads. If you're only going to be painting once in awhile it's definitely worth the purchase over a canister filter. I actually walked into Eastwood with money in my pocket to buy a canister filter and they sold me on the desiccant snake. Most of my purchases were made at Menards, Farm & Fleet and Eastwood. There's a parts list pinned to the top of the comments also.
I have question about sand blasting, could you come out of the compressor head and back into the tank with this setup to keep up blasting better and not lose the tank volume. Thanks Dennis.
Nice job! So what kind of "soldering" is that you're doing with the propane torch? I've never done that before. I've done regular soldering of small electrical components, but nothing like what you did here. Looks fairly easy though. Thanks!
I love your flow and style untill you gave me the oh shttt moment I just constructed my whole air dryer out of galvanized steel 1/2 pipe and am about to send it to a high dollar tsunami air filter.....
Thanks! I believe the copper was right around $150, the regulator was just under a $100, the desiccant snake was $30, the desiccant relative humidity indicator was $30, the jumper hose was $30, and I would say add another $50 for small pieces like some of the brass fittings and regulators. So you'll probably end up spending around 400 bucks with the solder and flux you're going to have to buy.
HERE IS THE LIST OF PARTS USED ON THIS BUILD! The tubing was cut to 72" to utilize the most space in that area. You want to have at least 40-50' of copper for this system to be effective.
Here is the parts list for the Air Dryer
, starting at the compressor
1x - 2 1/2" 3/4" brass nipple (Sioux Chief 17700324)
1x - 3/4" brass street elbow (female and male end)
1x - 3/4" brass ball valve threaded (both female ends)
1x - 3/4" Rapid Air Compressed Air Jumper Hose (Part # F0215)
1x - 3/4" Male Adapter (Nibco 604 3/4" to 3/4" threaded)
10x - 3/4" 90° Copper Elbow (Nibco 607)
3x - 3/4" Copper Tee (Nibco 611)
3x - 3/4" to 1/2" Male adapter (Nibco 604 3/4" to 1/2" threaded)
3x - 1/2" Ball Valves threaded (both female ends)
4x - 3/4" Copper pipe Type L ( I cut these to 72" for the main height)
9x - 3/4" Copper pipe in 2" pieces
1x - 3/4" Brass Compression fitting (to the regulator)
1x - 3/4" Rapid Air NPT Filter Regulator (K93217)
The piping after the regulator was set up with 3 end points, one for my blasting cabinet 125 psi at all times, one for my tools and one for the paint gun. The paint side has a DeVilbiss 130502 Desiccant snake, a regulator, high flow fittings and a Devilbiss Rhi-01 Relative Humidity Indicator.
Busted Classic Garage I’ve pretty much built the same thing minus the manifold. I don’t do any painting. Just air tools. It’s been laying in my garage floor for about 2 weeks lol. To many projects going on plus work. I didn’t realize how much this was going to cost until I was to far into it😳. Damn thing cost as muck as my 60 gal compressor lol. Nice video man 👍
Can you do a review of the dryer what do you do different if you have to redo the dryer. Thanks
Thanks Brian! Too many projects... sounds like my life!
I'll try to at some point David. I have a ton of videos to get edited at the moment, but not a lot of time to finish them. I think the only thing that I would change about the design would be to have all three valves go into one.
While I can see what you did and the parts you used, I can't understand the theory behind it, or why you'd need to use 50' of copper (and all those fittings!) Surely you could just do a pressure drop into a small auxiliary tank (like from an old portable compressor that died) and put a single drain at the bottom? If you were super motivated you could fill it with aluminum honeycomb or similar to provide more surface area for condensate without going to all that expense.
I have to say though - cracking job in fabricating the design you went with. Quality work fella.
As a professional HVAC, plumber and pipe fitter, to say I’m impressed with your piping skills would be an understatement.
Although there are more expedient ways to fit and solder copper piping, most likely because it wouldn’t have made financial sense to buy that specific additional tooling, you understand the importance of the word “plumb” more than most of the guys in my field...
Very well done sir...
Thank you John! The comments are really mixed for this video and it's nice to get some very positive feedback once in a while! I know some of it was a little overkill but I like to build it once and be done with it. It's not worth it for me to take shortcuts and have to do things twice, time is too precious to waste!
@@BustedClassicGarage Yeah build it once - for life.
@@BustedClassicGarage Better over kill that the "wish I woulda's".
What are the more expedient tools for soldering/sweating?
Wanted to add my thanks! I built a like system and currently using it to seal and prime my 56 Chevy in the humidity of Louisiana. The system is working flawlessly!
Awesome, sounds like a great project! Thanks for watching!
I've been watching several UA-cam videos and I think you are the first one to solder correctly by applying heat at the bottom and solder at the top!
Do it once, do it right. Lol
About 8 months later form my research and I'm about ready to build my copper piping cooling system and this clip has been on my mind all along. You've done your job well, is what I'm saying. Hats off.
Thanks man!
I learned that Theory about 25 years ago when learning to carve/etch glass. The same problem/issue with water and paint pertains to blasting media. THEY HATE EACH OTHER.I also use a toilet paper filter at the very end. I love it. I live in North Carolina so the humidity is not bad but I learned this from a carver in Florida that had been using it for years. I'm sure mine was cheaper to build then ,than yours was. .but it is all relitave,I also made less $ then.Im sure you will love it. I'm an old guy so I didn't like the music but that's just me,and I'm sure there are trademark issues with music.
Humidity not too bad in NC? Regularly in 70-80%+ range. Your version of not too bad is different than mine though compared to Florida yes, almost need scuba gear to breath in FL sometimes. That last little filter at the end is cheap insurance and well worth it in my book. I buy extras. I blast and paint.
I say filter the crap out of it till you see a reduction in cfm's or pressure. Filters (for almost anything) are cheaper than the consequences of NOT filtering. Also another trick or mod to this type of system is to put a ball valve at the lowest parts ( it will pool there)I have 4. But I am VERY fortunate and I have a lot of space.You just bleed every time you walk by. And yes I hear people whine about humidity, Then they go on vacation to Miami and that changes things I someone is on a budget and time is not a factor,you can check construction sites.It is almost pathetic the things thrown away. They say it is cheaper to throw it away than to store it,so go dumpster diving and save a ton of cabbage. ( just talk to the super intendant first, and don't leave a mess.you will be amazed how nice they are. I was an electrician and had supers saving stuff for me.
@@oldcrookedfingercollins1417 I live in NC currently. Air in a hose laying on concrete will condense in the hose. I'm sure that phenomena would be worse in Miami , Memphis or St. Louis but it happens in Charlotte too. It only takes a few drops to kill a paint job or make a clump in a abrasive blaster.
I once built a very nice large dog house out of wood tossed by contractors into a dumpster. Had a papered and shingled roof too.
I have heard stories about some pretty good stuff in dumpsters at Lowes and Home Depot also. Treasure is were you find it if you are willing to look.
Be safe out there crocked finger.
That is exactly why I had to use that music. Because the original audio had music in the background and I would have had over two dozen copyright infringement issues.
Your attention to detail is pretty awesome, I worked for a Ingersol Rand portable Diesel compressor company 25 years ago and learned a for amount about large volumes of air. And high and low pressure compressor differences.
And I have had my own engine rebuild shop, and now CNC machine shop.... And have dealt with compressed air a lot.... The challenge with drying air is to understand a few different things.
#1 - what pressure do you need.....and most importantly what CFM do you need at that pressure.
The zig zag back and forth you built back and forth out of non-finned copper line is fine if you use almost now CFM..... Such as painting only. If you were to have someone run that sand blaster non-stop for let's say 30 minutes most basic $1000 and under garage compressors your compressor would never shut off running a Bastet and your copper line temp drop across those few lines would be almost nothing. And the water build up would be uncontrollable.
The tank and air line temp would be out of control. The zig zag is a waste of time and money.
What you need to do is much more simple.... First remove the air line off the compressor head manifold that goes to the tank ....and run it across the as far away as you can to an air dryer that is at least 50% bigger in CFM volume then you compressor puts out.
Then box your shop in a overhead square up high so there are no dead end air runs.....then where ever you need drops plump up first then then turn 90 degrees back down ( water doesn't like to go up ) then plumb from your dryer back to the compressor tank then the check valve...... Now your tank will never even get warm if everything is sized right.
Then plumb from your tanks discharge supply valve to your over head square box with all needed drop downs ( you can add drops under each drop supplies with electric moisture blow off's to make sure there is no water build up. ) if the dryer is big enough there will be no water.
Remember air conditioned shops require smaller dryers .... Non air conditioned shops in humid areas need MASSIZE dryers sometimes 4 times bigger in CFM rating past compressor output .
I have a system in my shop I personally built to keep dry air flowing to my CNC spindles so the lower spindle bearing that sees a constant 5 CFM of air flow at 90 psi to keep high pressure coolant from back splashing into the bearing.
My compressor puts out about 40 CFM at 90 psi...... And much less CFM at 175 psi.
This is a great video but Compressed air drying is much more complex and this example would only work with very low air volume.
Blaster cabinets require much more cooling then this system would provide. ( this example is more towards painting only ) but you should still add a electric dryer. And auto blow off valves.
If your air storage tank gets really warm or heaven forbid ( Hot ). You are going to have trouble.
IndyDan
Thanks for watching and for the great info
Dan Turen - Man I have a lot to learn! So for only painting...this system will work? I'm about to buy a compressor and want to do it right. Still new to all this.
Thanks!
:)
Really cool system and video ! I am a retired Woodworker between shops at the moment and i’m hoping my next place will be set up for both Woodworking and Automotive repair and painting hopefully utilizing one Compressor to run it all so i’m just kind of getting ideas fromUA-camrs like you at this moment
Nice, glad I could help.
Fine word Amigo, I have 1 thing to share. If the line from your compressor to your first copper run connects at the top and same with your last copper run its a good way to make sure any water/condensation remains only in the copper pipes. Just info for u to do whatever with. Great vid
Thanks for the info and thanks for watching!
I've been soldering wires and electronics successfully since I was 14 and I'm north of 60 now but have always struggled with getting nice looking copper pipe sweating. I saw that you keep the hear much farther away from the open end of the connector than I ever did. Will give that a try. I've always cleaned the metal bright because it will never work with less than perfectly clean copper and always used a good flux but got ugly joints. Thanks for the tip!
No problem, thanks for watching!
So I watched this video about 6 months ago and since then I've always told myself "I need to make myself a set up like this". Well the day has finally come that it is going to get made. Thanks for the great video and the parts list in the other comments!
No problem, I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
I separated the belt driven pump from the tank. Put the pump & motor on one side of the shop and the tank on the other side of the shop ( good 60' ) then ran the line on the floor along the wall behind cabinets and benches and such between the 2. Always way cooler along the floor. More material compared to time invested. Haven't had a single drop.
I really like that idea. Do you have pictures posted somewhere?
I really like this idea as well. Would love to see any details you can offer. Seems like a GREAT idea!
I thought leaks and fitings that don't work out ONLY happend to me. Your much more meticulous than me and it even happend to you. Nice to see I'm not alone.
You are definitely not alone!
Really like the way you take the time to think thru projects and attempt to do it right the first time....right down to using level. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Kenneth! If you are going to do it once, do it right! Although I do like to complicate things a lot of times. LOL
keep your videos comeing,i want to see more videos,,your lucky ,down there old cars are alot cheaper to buy , up here in canada every body thinks their cars are made of gold,have a nice day
New video will be out tomorrow. Yea everybody want's top dollar even down here.
nice job, I like the attention to detail with all the male and female adaptors clocked the same, and all the union nuts and quick adaptors done the same. TWO THUMBS UP. now you need to grow a proper mullet to drive a 70's F body.
LOL Thanks and if you need full blown mullet action check out the Power tour videos!
Dude! OMG.... this is the best video on youtube. If for nothing less, you just taught people how to take pride in their work! You even busted out a freaking level for a support block.
Thanks Keith! I always say, build it once!
I love the videos and your attitude. It is way too easy to take yourself too seriously. You have just the right balance. I am working on a 72 short bed of my own. I am getting a lot of inspiration from all of your videos. Thank you.
No problem Dean! Thanks for the positive words and good luck with your 72.
It’s good to watch a craftsman.
Thanks man!
Who's watching in 2021 and thinking there's more money in that piping than their current car?
Hahaha! Now that's funny!
Actually for an exit pipe out of a compressor tank your best option is stainless steel because it doesn’t rust or corrode in anyway and it’s way stronger than anything else. Yeah it’s pricey but what do you want perfect There it is besides whatever you use use good filtration. Great show man… Keep on rockin…
Nice, thanks for the advice when I move to a different garage I'm definitely gonna upgrade those pipes.
Very nice job on the build and I can appreciate all the work you put into filming and editing. Very good job. Informative and entertaining. Thank you.
Thank you Kevin for being one of the few people that appreciated the amount of work that went into this one. It took about 4 months to edit.
@@BustedClassicGarage You're welcome. I've done a few videos myself, mostly when UA-cam was in its infancy. Took more time to make the video than the project I was working on 🤣
I'm gonna steal this design on my new set up. Won't need 50' of copper tubing however... I have an 16 pass copper/aluminum fin condenser (pre-tank) going from the condenser into your design with the copper tubes and water catch areas at the bottom, from there into an air filter/water separator with a plunger style auto-drain and from that! Finally, into the 60 gallon storage tank. My reasoning behind all this, is I don't want to replace the tank lol. And I paint as well, so coming OUT of the compressor I may have a desiccant dryer specifically for painting... I feel like after all that, it would just be overkill BUT! I'll try it and see if the desiccant stays dry or not.
Sounds great!
Love your video style 👌🏻 and the beautiful methodical symmetry of your work 🧐😲😎😁 thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills 🙏🏻🙏🏻😎
No problem, thanks for watching!
Making this is all above! The the power is from above
I built the same thing about 3 years ago. The trick I added to mine is an orifice within the supply line leaving the compressor where it enters the copper pipe.. so the air has a rapid expansion entering the radiator. It helped tremendously! Then I added a cyclonic water separator and large motor guard filter. I just change the toilet paper as it needs it. Or before starting a big job requiring a lot of air.. like running the blast cabinet, spraying, running the plasma table etc..
I like this type of system because it's basically maintenance free.. only additional changes I'm planning is an automatic drain system that drains the compressor tank as well as the copper manifold.
Nice, I will also install automatic drains at some point in the future.
Good vid. And finally someone that uses good background music instead of that annoying technocrap.
Too funny!!!! You are the first person that has actually given me a compliment on the music in this video. Most people are really upset about it... LMAO!
that's because people click on to see / learn what you're doing, most people have radios. narrate as you go, or put it in the computer and overdub what you're doing. no disrespect to you.
I find music in a talking video very annoying to say the least! There's no need for it! With that said, the video is great!!
Nice job, great tips
Thanks Jose!
Great video, Thanks. I didn't mind the music because I am quit hard of hearing! I'm going to get started on mine now. Thanks again.
No problem, thanks for watching!
I love the music, very VAI like!!
Using the compressor pulley fan to draw air through is lovely. I'm adding a small home built 1 hp compressor run off my off grid PV to keep my 500 gallon tank topped up and your video has been most helpful. It will run for long periods. I was wondering how well your float type drain has worked out over time. I need either that or on of the timer/electric types. Thank you! Bruce M
All I have on there is some ball valves, but it might be a good idea to put on some kind of Auto drain in the future. The system does what it's designed to do and I haven't had any issues with it so far.
Awesome video bud! might do the same but in 1/2". and at the bottom, I'll connect all 3 valve connection to one valve. to keep the cost down... copper fittings are super expensive now.
Never mind.... your way of doing it is the right way. :D
Thanks for watching Mario!
You obviously know what you are doing. My favorite part is showing the corroded inside of a steel pipe. I would never use black or galvanized pipe. Sch. 80 PVC will handle the pressure but if it ruptures, you have shards that injure. 3/4 in. Copper is great and I like the double kill of using Teflon tape with pipe sealant. Yes, 40 to 50 ft. run is minimum. You are far better than average !
Thank you! Yeah, I have read horror stories about PVC exploding under pressure, doesn't sound fun at all.
Enjoyed this video. Just mad a manifold like this for my new air compressor. Mine doesn't look that good tho lol. Good job! Where did you find the hose that go from air compressor to manifold ?
Thank you! Here is a Amazon link to the hose. I remember it being around $35... man has stuff gotten expensive lately. amzn.to/3YCgNLF
@@BustedClassicGarage I know it has but thanks for the link!!
@@RYoung09 no problem.
When air is compressed it heats up and water is formed. You need to cool the compressed air back down to room temperature to get the moisture out. Hot air will flow in and out of a dryer and drop its moisture down stream on your paint. Mounting an air filter on the side of the compressor tank is a waste of time. The filter needs to be as far from the compressor as possible. Mount a box fan on your compressor so it blows across the motor and compressor, wire it so it comes on with the compressor. Putting another fan on your copper coils would help too. Run the air line from the tank up to the ceiling first, then down, make the water drain back to your tank. I get very little water in my lines by using a box fan on my compressor and routing the output line straight up
I'm thinking about installing an aftercooler between the tank and the pump. That should help also.
Nice job man. This is an entertaining and informative.video; just what I was looking for on how to set up an air system for my garage.
These air system are going to cost more than a damm compressor if you want to do it right...especially for spray painting.
Keep'em comming!
Thanks Shane! The cost isn't too bad for this system, but it can very quickly add up. Perfect example a desiccant snake vs a DeVilbiss Desiccant Air Drying System, it's only a $1000 difference...
@@BustedClassicGarage "only" LoL.
Well done and good production. Don't ever have high humidity out West. Usually only 20%. We are building our air dryer this week.
Thanks Erik! This video was too much, way too much work for what it's worth. But I don't seem to learn and I just make future videos more complex.
I build this air dryer but decided to attach the dryer in between the compressor head and tank. worked great until today the copper got too hot and blew out the first solder joint. was this a poor decision on my end or is the compressor too hot? maybe i should attach the separator after the tank?
Question, I got a question.........I was going to do this with PVC pipe would it still work? If I do this in copper is there a flux I must apply or is it in the solder already?
I need to protect my plasma cutter which already took a dump on me 2 times and dont feel like paying $2400 for another one. This video was helpful and I also ordered a cooler to attach to my portable compressor.
Thanks
You don't want to use PVC because it gets brittle over time and then it can explode. Yes on the flux, you can get it at any hardware store.
@@BustedClassicGarage Thanks. I have PVC already and wanted to do a setup to try for a month. I went to shop for copper and was about $200 for about 40 feet total and fittings. Thanks for the input.
That music at around 9:20 is awesome. At first I thought it was gonna be some generic BS canned metal licks. No, these guys have the groove and while obviously influenced by great classic metal, they really do have the feel in with some to give away.
It's nice to find somebody that actually appreciates it because most of the comments are, "oh the music is terrible."
I appreciate the copper air lines. This is how I'm going to run air in my shop also. I understand what you're doing with the six vertical pipes to condense the moisture and the valves at the bottom to remove it. I'm confused by all the connections at the end. It would be great if you had summarized at the end what you did and how it's supposed to work.
Everything after the regulator I built with a specific purpose for my setup. I could have just ran 1 copper pipe to a couple quick disconnects. The reason I overcomplicated it is because I wanted to have three different endpoints. I wanted to have 125 psi at all times from the main rapid air regulator to go to my blasting cabinet with a shut off valve, that way I never have to worry about air delivery by having to turn down the regulator or having to hook up an air hose to the blasting cabinet. The top connections were regulated down to 90 PSI with two quick disconnects for air tools. The paint connections have air flow in mind, all the quick disconnect were high flow, I made the desiccant snake easily removable to dry the desiccant in an oven once it got saturated with moisture. Also I routed the copper in a way where I could install an actual desiccant filter system in the future. So it just really depends on what you need at the outlet. You could get away with using a hose with high-flow fittings with a desiccant snake in between and you could bring down your psi on the main rapid air regulator and then regulate down also at the paint guns gauge. I hope that helps. Also I did just upload a paint booth build video, be sure to check that out. Thanks for watching!
"Over-complicate". That describes me as well. It looks really good. Thanks for the clarification. I'm hoping it works great. Oh and I did just watch the paint booth vids. Great job! I'll look out for more of your content.
The Galvanized steel valves will cause hysteresis. Brass with copper is a better choice and does not have the dissimilar metal corrosion problem. I know it's more money but 2 bucks per valve is nothing in the long run. The workmanship was excellent. I was surprised to see you DID use brass on the rest of the valves. I just installed black pipe out of my tank and after seeing your video and the corrosion issue I am thinking I may need to re-address that issue in the near future. sigh. Liked, subscribed and noti's.........Peace.
Thanks man!
@@BustedClassicGarage I also was wondering after a re-visit why you did not install a union on some of those items that may need maintenance on them for easy quick removal and no ferrule replacement on your brass fittings..... or where they flared?
A secondary point about the steel fittings. I do motorcycle repairs and Tank Sealer works miracles on steel. Coating that nipple would basically eliminate the corrosion issue, but, it has to be the full interior length without missing any spots. Not Hard just tape one end with some really GOOD Duct Tape, pour in an oz or 2 of the sealer, Tape other end, work it around inside back and forth very well, pull off one end of the tape, drain excess and let it set for 4 days to cure. End of corrosion problems.
@@anonimous2451 Honestly the main reason I probably didn't use unions was to save money. And it's pretty easy to resweat the joint if I really need to. I actually just remove the system from that wall because I moved to a farm house and it would've made it a little bit easier if I had put a Union between the air dryer and air filter but I got it moved no problem, just had to be extra careful about it.
Always a pleasure to see someone as OCD as me. :)
Keep up the good work man!
Thanks man!
Dude wtf !!! Your a mastermind when it comes to this shit
Lol! Thanks!
Ah 2018, I remember you. Back when you could run copper tubing throughout a workshop without having to consider taking a 2nd mortgage out to pay for it.
Amen brother! It's gotten ridiculous lately.
Great video Man that's right to the point.
Love your dog to exlent moment with the music it sat really well for me, I'm hoping to try find some of the tunes you used to listen to myself .
Do you play music? As at one point I thought I wonder is this tune performed by you ?
& your place looks cool to . Hey bro things break hey it happens to me to, and im thinking what next ? its frustrating . But for what you do its worth it. Same with me bro.
It's very much worth it, I think that's why I think like that. Make nearly anything with the RND and experience of different trade's .
Thanks man! Check out the riff over the Busted Intro in the newest vid. That's a part from one of my songs. I have bits and pieces sprinkled throughout. ua-cam.com/video/Qdig_Qcas5E/v-deo.html
Cool video, where did you get the black rubber hose that come off the ball valve and do you know the psi rating?
Thanks
That hose is intended for air compressors, there is a parts list in the top pinned comment.
First off, great video, and workmanship. Now for the meat ,and potatoes. Coming from, and still in the air compressor business as a field service technician for all brands of air compressors, driers, and filtration for over 20 years,.. you effectively built a after cooler for the discharge air. Yes the receiver tank will also act as a after cooler too. However, all your copper tubing is at the mercy of your ambient temp of your garage. Other considerations are relative humidity. On high humid days, you will increase condensate output from the discharge air, and how much demand you draw from the compressor. The more the compressor runs, the more hot wet air it will produce. Especially on humid days. There is a reason why refrigerated driers are used. They cool the air to around 36 to 39 degrees. ( which is a good common low dew point for most compressed air systems) Do you think your piping system will get that low in temp? (Well it probably will in the winter time) Please don’t get me wrong here, I am not hating on your system, or you. Just putting out a little more information on air systems. If you have access to a dew point monitor, or hydrometer, measure the dew point at the point of discharge on you system. You will see what I am explaining. There is a lot more involved on this topic, which I do not have time to get into now. Keep up the great work, and good luck with you projects.
I have dealt with high moisture especially when the compressor is running consistently. I will at some point add an aftercooler between the pump and tank. Thanks for watching and the info.
Pierce, I am glad you posted this, I really like what he has done here. However, I have had the same concerns that you have listed. Let me ask you, if I build a piping basically like his but instead enclose it, (box in in some type of way), leaving only an opening large enough to vent a 5000 BTU window A/C, allowing this cold air from the A/C to have a steady supply of cold air over and through these home built pipes? Though it will not be in the thirties , but maybe if I am lucky the 40s or low 50'. Would this described set up be of benefit? I hope you see this as I really would like your advice. Thanks very much. Phillip Hall
@@BustedClassicGarage Excellent and educational video. I'm about to dive into fixing this same moisture issue in my shop, for sand blasting and painting. Out of curiosity, what factored into your decision to make the copper separator rather than an aftercooler b/tw the pump and tank? Interested to hear pros / cons from your experience and others'.
Its a great video i think... thanks .... i love it
Thank you!
Very well documented build... Well done and thank you for sharing it. I appreciate the honesty in you sharing what worked, the parts list, what could have been better as well as the motivating music! One suggestion would be to include a snap shot view of the whole system in one picture...
BTW how is is performing for your various uses?
those look like brandoms cabinets, I used to paint those years ago
Great video man, I had a few questions, but since since you're really on top of it with all these other questions I've already found my answers. That deserves a thanks in itself! Looking forward to checi=king out what all other videos you'v got.
Only thing that'd make this video even better, in my opinion, would be to explain more of the theory, and the whys, bhind the hows. But again, you answer all these quetions so well and thoroughly I now know all the whys that I need to know.
Can we get a video on that fiinger snap/point, to instantly install our fittings? If I were you, and knew how to do that sh***** I'd leave the solder and teflon far behind! Must learn! hahaha
Hahaha! Thanks man! I just ran into your comment sorry for the late reply. Funny you were giving me props on getting back to people and here we are 2 years later. Lol I'm looking to do an update video so I'm cruising through the comments for some questions I can answer. Is there any other questions you had?
You nailed it when you needed to!
Thanks!
I would suggest using AquaPex, made by Uponor, instead of copper for a couple of very good reasons. 1. The AquaPex tubing does not condensate anywhere close to what copper does, thus dryer lines. 2. Cheaper....way cheaper. 3. Easier by far, pretty sure this job would have taken me less than a day to plumb the whole shop. In saying that I do appreciate the attention to detail, but using copper is not the best option for air lines. It is a testament to your talent since it was still interesting and entertaining!
Thanks! I'll look into that for the next garage I set up.
Thanks for the video which I have found really useful. And to questioners who raise valid points. I'm a DIY classic car enthusiast just recently 'discovered' air power & am preparing for my first respray this year. Also discovering some pitfalls to avoid.
I do have a couple of questions though
1] about pipe length and diameter. It would appear that (assuming other conditions constant) longer pipe runs increase performance (up until last tap is dry?) - so I assume a smaller diameter pipe would need even longer runs - so proportional to inner surface area?
2] a questioner mentioned installing an 'orifice' (a wider pipe or plenum?) before the 'intercooler' to allow rapid expansion of air...since I do not know how wet pressurised air behaves, is there some 'theory' behind that addition? Have not seen that mentioned before.
Had not seen a dessicant pipe before so will check that out too.
Thanks again for sharing your experience &
your time & effort to put this together.
G
Yes the bigger the better, also the bigger equals more air volume.
Would have liked to see the system as a whole, and hear a little bit about how much moisture you got out of each leg of the system.
If you cruise over to my Instagram or Facebook page (link in the description) I have some pictures of the whole system there. I get the most water out of the left valve and it decreases as it goes down the line.
What are some good brand names for filter/dessicant-dryers? I'm looking at a Campbell Hausfeld comb and PneumaticPlus - both 130$ price range.
Also, technical question. For a run and gun system (fixing a panel, varnishing some furniture) would a 25 ft hose (maybe an ice bucket) and one of those cheaper systems that I mention be enough? I wold assume so. I'm a once in a blue moon warrior (not even weekend) and I'm looking for a good system to varnish and paint. My compressor is a 27 gallon 1.9 hp Powermate.
A couple years ago I walked into Eastwood Alsip planning on spending $500 on a particle/desiccant filter system, after a conversation with the manager I had a way better understanding and a lot better game plan. At some point I'll buy a desiccant system from Eastwood or Devilbiss but for right now with the amount of painting that I'm doing the desiccant snake is way more than enough. So what I would suggest is to buy a good quality low Micron particle filter and moisture separator and then just plumb up a desiccant snake to your lines. Once the desiccant snake it's full of moisture you can set it outside on a really hot day or even put it in your oven at a very low temperature to dry it out. As far as making a very cheap system that would be efficient I would get at least 50 feet of hose (from comp to moisture/particle filter) and then have it go through a decent moisture separator filter and a desiccant snake. Rapid air does have a couple different moisture separator regulators like mine but with smaller 1/2" inlets and Outlets. But just keep in mind whenever you're building something try to build for the future, that way when you upgrade you don't have to redo it. That's the main reason why I chose the rapid air filter because of it but it's high PSI and I ran 3/4 inch piping all the way through the system. Because once I step up to a 2-stage 80 gallon compressor I'm not going to have any restrictions in my system.
Also if you do go the route of buying a desiccant filter and not a snake make sure there's parts available for it. Because I know the cheaper Devilbiss filter is actually getting discontinued and there's not going to be any parts available for any more.
Question: I built one and am see no water out of the valves. Did you install yours between the compressor and tank or at the outlet of the tank?
I installed mine at the outlet of the tank to my filters.
for those that want to try to use pvc pipe as an inexpensive replacement for copper, keep in mind that pvc conducts heat very poorly so you would need a much larger cooling grid that could be 3 times the size of a copper grid.
And it likes to go... BOOM
@@BustedClassicGarage well, yes it does. personally i would never use pvc for compressed air but for some reason a lot of places around me do..
@@marzsit9833 definitely not worth the risk in my book.
This method of copper pipe works great, but to those interested, the other method you see well documented in the internet of using a trans cooler is much better. Here's why. Aside from the enormous amount of cost, work, and leak failure points for this method, look at the physics. The copper pipe is nearly against the wall which reduces air flow dramatically. A small trans cooler like the common Derale 15300 used in the other videos has 16 ft of tube (I bet you didn't realize that), and it is finned, and exposed on all sides. (Ever see baseboard heating without fins? Of course not). It is at least 2x efficient as unfinned pipe against wall. Then add a small fan and it is at least 3x efficient as copper pipe against the wall. That means a small 12"x12" cooler is equal to 48 ft of copper pipe against your wall. Lastly, who has so much wall space to kill? No disrespect to this guy who did an awesome job, I'm just trying to help people who are considering adding an aftercooler. Either method works extremely well. Whichever method you choose, be sure to install the cooler and a water trap BEFORE your tank to avoid the corrosion he showed in the piping happening in your tank (it's uncoated steel inside).
I've heard of the derail failure quite often no???
@@anthonymoy4471 Where have you heard this? The coolers are rated at 250psi operating and 300psi burst. No problem.
Just a question - what's the flexible line for (in the last minute of the video - the one that leaked)?
Desiccant snake from Eastwood Co.
Next time just leave the insulation where it is. It will compress no problem. Great build
Thanks Gene!
Hello can you tell me after the regulator. On the 3 end points was this from 3/4 inch copper or 1/2 inch copper then reduced down to 3/8 inch for the airline fittings and regulators.
Everything before the regulator was 3/4", everything after was 1/2" copper reduced to 3/8" air lines.
@@BustedClassicGarage Thanks.
Well done
Thanks!
So looks to be 1/2 coper do you have a schematic
NIce, very nice. You did a great job! I would like to ask you. When you put this in use, Do you always have water come out 'each' valve when you open them for draining? Thanks a lot........
Yes most of the time. The more the compressor runs or if its very humid outside I get a decent amount of water. Always more closer to the compressor and less further away.
@@BustedClassicGarage
Thank you for the video and thank you for the answer!
I have a 21 gallon compressor with an additional 11 gallon tank connected together my garage can I run 1/2 copper pipe?
Yeah that shouldn't be a huge issue. The main reason why I chose 3/4" was I didn't want to restrict airflow. Now I know after the filter I went to 1/2" but that gives me the ability in the future to redesign it in a way where I could use a bigger impact gun or tool that requires a lot more volume of air. Build it once!
Good God Almighty! What a sweet set up - all that and you end up using Harbor Freight junk.
So do you have any issues when the compressor is running while you’re painting?
The biggest thing I've painted was the cab to my truck. With only a 60 gal compressor, I had no issues with running out of air or any moisture. What little moisture might get through gets dried out with the desiccant snake.
@@BustedClassicGarage Thanks. I’ve got a 30 gallon lowes special. 1.8hp. It’s worked fine for me so far (ties, blow gun, impact air tools), but using a 1/4 angle grinder the other day I had water spitting a bunch. Definitely doing the copper pipes this weekend.
Very nice design and work. Like your style. You still use a small dryer at your spray gun right? I've found the rubber hose lying on concrete floor sometimes gets cool enough for condensation to form inside it. If you live in dry climate like Phoenix might not be a problem but in the south or other more humid climate, better use that little dryer at the gun. Every bit of insurance against moisture is worth it. New subscriber.
Yes, I do. Welcome to the channel!
That turned out great. Nice editing too.
Double R Restorations thanks man! The editing of this video still gives me nightmares... lol But at least it's done and now I can move on to bigger and better things.
Great video! I made my lines from galvanized ,didn’t think about the crud that could get in the lines from using steel. Question is, thats a three line set up, so for a one line dedicated line for paint I only have to run about a third of what you have here here right? Also I have a Devilbliss dessicant dryer,can I dry that filter out in the oven instead of buying a new filter for 50 dollars? If I can didnt know you could do that. Thanks again great video.
I cut my teeth in body shops and became a full time painter both in body shops as well as industrial nonsense shooting up to 70 gallons a week poisoning my body from soaking it up through my sweat pours etc.. Anyway, nice setup.. Now I have a cabinet shop and would make a similar setup except I no longer paint anything at similar scale, mostly latex these days, occasional oil, but not enough to worry about.. I absolutely get the time thing.. In my shop now I have to run to the dump about once a month just to dispose of all the scrap wood and sawdust and my shop is a holy terror of messes plus I just don't seem to have the ability to throw out anything bigger than a 1x1 that isn't full of knots.. I can't even find a scrap guy to pick up scrap metal if I was still producing it.. The good news is I'm getting too old to keep this foolishness up so I'll probably sell off my equipment before I die of old age and have my kids sell it for themselves.. ;)
Lol, we are all hoarders in some way. I have 5 different HEI distributors... will I ever use them? Probably not, but I have them if I ever need to build 5 engines. Hahaha! The foolishness, I'm right there with you! Thanks for watching Martino!
Cool video and a great project. I've got to do the same..
Thanks jeff lindsey. Once I sprayed that hood and realized that my entire garage was covered in overspray, I decided to build a paint booth... I swear it never ends!
Looks good but I see a flaw in the system. The hose from the tank should be downhill and the connection to the water trap system should be below the level of the tank output port, yours is uphill ( yours is straight up ) witch means that water will flow back into your tank.
Not a flaw, I would rather have the water flow back into my tank ( which gets drained regularly) then towards the filters.
I love it😊
Thank you!!!!
Looks amazing
Thanks! I'm glad it's finally done.
You done a killer job on air set-up!! After 2 yrs now, how's everything holding up? Going to look at some other videos of yours!
Thanks man! I've been thinking of filming a update video soon. I'm happy with the system, it has done what I needed it to do with no failures. Thanks for watching!!!
@@BustedClassicGarage new subscriber, your channel is great!
@@jeffbarker730 thanks man, I hope you like old trucks because there are a lot of C-10 videos coming soon!
Nice job
Thank you!!!
Check out Easton compressors out of Ohio Awsome mom and pop shop went big.big pistols on there compressors so the run slower and cooler. Also sounds like my motorcycle!
Nice, will do.
Great video! What brand/type of shutoff valves did you use in the piping after the air regulator (the ones with the red handles)?
Thanks.
Thanks! Those were just standard 1/2 ball valves, one side female and one side male ends. I think I got those at Menards so they would be Nibco brand.
don't feel bad, took me 2 years to get around to connecting 2 wires!
Lmao!!!!
Where do you find 3M paper in Canada? I am in Montreal. I want 216U. Almost everybody seems to carry Gator or Norton. The 216U is formulated for water borne finishes btw.
Can you get it online? I know eBay has a ton of it but you might have to pay an arm and a leg for shipping.
@@BustedClassicGarage Yeah plus the time for shipping in these crap times. I'll manage. So far Norton ProSand (the 20 sheet contractor pack has been ok - just ok - sand very well but not sure if I got the few fish eyes from it or from using DNA to clean, or from dust contamination, time will tell as I troubleshoot). I wrote Jeff Jewitt the finishes and he said that he tried as many brands a few years ago and found no issues overall; the modern sterates seem to be better he said. Anyway, I'll see. I have some Mirka Gold on the way; that with 216U seem to be the gold standard for water borne finish.
Canadian tire
This is not enough also needing a cooler in-between the compressor and the tank. I used a 25fot coil of copper tubing submerged in a bucket. Also put a small clear reservoir at the end where you connect the air line, you will see still there will be some moisture.
Yeah I will have to do that at some point. Whatever moisture's left in the system now gets picked up by my Desicant filter.
Nice work, however it doesn't matter if you use all steel , go to any shop, factory, or school thier air lines are steel and many times 50 years old, rust nodules inside the lines won't hurt unless they break loose, and clog your tools
Thanks Eric!
Very nice build, design and execution BUT- That solder is too soft for >150psi. You need to use a silver solder or braze. Over time you'll be popping elbows/ tees. Also confused by the array of 1/2" tubing and outlets at the end. Some description of what/ why would help. 1/2" there also will restrict your flow a bit if you have a high load like a blaster (1/2" hose should be fed from 3/4").
The half inch fittings are only for the drain valves (for draining collected water) at the bottom of the drip legs. The airflow doesn't go through them. They could be 1/4"
Great video Man. Just what I was looking for.
Curious about the desiccant snake? Does that just take place of not needing a desiccant filter with silica additives?
Did you get most parts from same place?
Yeah the desiccant snake is basically a cheap way to get the benefits of canister filter with desiccant beads. If you're only going to be painting once in awhile it's definitely worth the purchase over a canister filter. I actually walked into Eastwood with money in my pocket to buy a canister filter and they sold me on the desiccant snake. Most of my purchases were made at Menards, Farm & Fleet and Eastwood. There's a parts list pinned to the top of the comments also.
Busted Classic Garage right on. Ya eastwood is good customer service. And thanks for the tip. Saved me money man thanks
I have question about sand blasting, could you come out of the compressor head and back into
the tank with this setup to keep up blasting better and not lose the tank volume. Thanks Dennis.
No, this system is only to be used after the tank. If you want something between the tank and pump you'll want to look into a condenser.
Nice job! So what kind of "soldering" is that you're doing with the propane torch? I've never done that before. I've done regular soldering of small electrical components, but nothing like what you did here. Looks fairly easy though. Thanks!
It's the same soldering method you would use sweat copper pipes for you homes water system. Very easy! Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Have you had an paint adhesion issues with the flux/acid in the copper lines?
No I have not.
lol, one year ago...I have a few projects like that!
Yep, that's how it goes sometimes.
Amaturers .
I have projects going on 20 years !
And two wives ago! I'll finish them someday!
I'm so confused... this seems massively overbuilt and has so many unnecessary parts. Could you explain what the long copper pipes are actually for?
Hi man what is thikness at inside diameter of pipe?
I love your flow and style untill you gave me the oh shttt moment I just constructed my whole air dryer out of galvanized steel 1/2 pipe and am about to send it to a high dollar tsunami air filter.....
Oh no, that's not good!
I have wanted to throw the exact same HF dryer and a couple others. I can't paint anything
It felt sooo good to throw that thing! LOL
Why no use an A/C condenser or other purpose-made heat exchanger?
Great build..
Wondering what it basically cost to do that build ???
Thanks! I believe the copper was right around $150, the regulator was just under a $100, the desiccant snake was $30, the desiccant relative humidity indicator was $30, the jumper hose was $30, and I would say add another $50 for small pieces like some of the brass fittings and regulators. So you'll probably end up spending around 400 bucks with the solder and flux you're going to have to buy.
That's one hell of a trombone you're making
Lol
It's a soprano tuba.
Did you use 1/2 or 3/4 copper lines??! Thanks
3/4" Parts list is pinned in the comments.
@@BustedClassicGarage why 3/4 and not 1/2?
@@TropicBreezeRealty less air restriction, especially if you plan on using a 3/4" or 1" impact gun.
That's a good system for my everlast plasma cutter too.