How to Disassemble the Engine Head 2.4 MultiJet 20V Alfa Romeo 159, Brera and Spider
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2024
- Hello guys! Unfortunately, it is common for these 2.4 MultiJet 20v engine heads to break, although the first versions hold up quite well. It is then crucial to carry out further antifreeze maintenance and keep an eye on engine oil leaks.
In this video, I took the engine head off so I could appreciate how to proceed with the repair.
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#AlfaRomeo #alfabrera #AlfaRomeoNoProblem - Авто та транспорт
I think this channel is becoming a true alfisti community, yes it’s not very big but i think it’s a quality community, thanks bruno for all the hard work you do on this channel, i can’t thank you enought
Wow, thanks for your kind words! I'm very grateful. I'll keep going and keep pushing
Interesting video. I'm looking forward to the continuation. I would change the piston rings and connecting rod bearings.
Tip from lithuanian Alfa Romeo group: you can swap engine head from Alfa Romeo 156, 166 or Lancia Thesis with 2.4 20V JTD engine. It is just bolt on job
Hello. I already did a video for that, it's on the channel. And that's what I'm doing on this car too
Спасибо за Ваши детальный видео по alfa romeo. Сам являюсь владельцем 159 2.4, на Сто не любят заниматься такими авто. Но благодаря Вашим видео автомобиль стараюсь обслуживать своими силами
Thank you very much for watching! Remember, keep up with the oil leeks and replacement of the coolant
Great video! Keep up the good work👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching
Thanks for watching
Well this video is another pure gold video! Now i know how to fit a new head diy. Btw i am afraid of cracking the head of my spider 2.4… i know pollution is important but this is not a daily driver, it’a a jewel to preserve so who cares about emissions… damn i don’t know what to do
Hello, vídeo for the assembly or coming up soon.
If it's really not your daily driver and the remap is not running coal, I believe it's ok
Can’t wait for the rebuild video 😁
Anyway mine is completely stock, no remap, egr with the plate with holes and well functioning dpf
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! You are amazing!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the content i have the same engine in my brera can i restore my engine machining it and my crankshat ? i broke my crank shaft connecting rod and piston due to a hard acceleration and i can't find an engine in my country tunisia
Thanks for watching. Ask for help on a good engine machine shop. Maybe you'll have to go oversized and such
hello i have a fiat motor 1.9 16v jtd which i plan to disasemble the head are those bolts also reusable or i should just buy new ones ?
Hello. Like it was said in the video, can use 4 times. Including the first time from the factory. Thanks for watching
hi at 2:30 minutes we hear a sharp noise tapping my engine makes the same noise when starting, is this normal? Where does this noise come from?
1.9 jtd 140
Hello. Normally a bad injectors or a bad wrist pin
@@alfaromeonoproblem wrist pin I don't understand with my translator are you talking about a hydraulic pusher? of course after a few seconds or even minutes everything is normal and I have no problems with the car
@Yannou_JtD I'm talking about the pin on the piston. They tend to get loose. But yes, also may be hydraulic lifters
@@alfaromeonoproblem but is the problem serious knowing that mine is a CF3 and that I keep it at 1000rpm and there is no noise? I'm going to try a product for the hydraulic tampers from motul sa can't do any harm
Hello I have a question regarding the cylinder head bolts on the 1.9 8V engine. Do I have to replace them or are they reusable? In the official Alfa workshop manuals it says nothing about it. Thanks in advance!
Hello. They can be used 4 times. Including the first time in the factory
@@alfaromeonoproblem OK thank you very much!
Hi bruno! I have still not watched this video yet, but i will very soon. Meanwhile. I have to change the thermostat of my 2.4 jtdm, so i will flush the cooling system too… do you know if valid cooling flush exist on the market? I found very little
Hello. I do not use flushing products. I always use coolant to do the cleaning
@@alfaromeonoproblemthank you
Hi just be careful when using any products to flush the cooling system most of them here in South Africa are acid based and they can cause major damage to your radiator and other components
@@rafiekahmed8568thank you, also i am worried for the seals. I think i will stick with a classic water and coolant cleaning
BTW, my 159 on a highway feels more comfortable and more stable at 160 km/h then at 130. In fact, it feels very good at 160 km/h. I read somwhere that the factory aligement for the front weels is some toe in, and that the front weels straighten to 0 degrees at 160 km/h (that the car was designed for that cruising speed). Is that true?
Too bad that the speed limit is a mere 130 km/h, like in the 1950s...
Here the limit is 120. To prevent tire ware I do alignments at zero on the front, factory at the back.
Normal cars do not have ground effects, so the hight on them doesn't move all that much, so I don't believe that to be true.
It's way more noticeable during hard braking.
I also noticed that my both 159 SW TI very stable at any speed. Even in bad weather conditions it holds the road. I had 156 which was also very stable on highway but had worse sound insulation compared to 159, but it was more agile.
@@Neatspejamasis Yeah, it is great at higher speeds. Too bad that the fаsсist laws are not allowing them.
I also have good tyres on mine, Pirelli P Zero PZ4 SC and Pirelli Cinturato Winter 2.
@@DashCamSerbia I also bought new 235/45 ZR19 Hankook Ventus S1 EVO 2. Good grip on corners, stable on rain.
@DashCamSerbia winter tyres do not like speed
How many kilometres?
Around 200 thousand
Hi, first thank you for all the very good content i learned so much here over the years 👍. When it comes to the 2.4 5 cylinder, i have done nearly everything with this engines (up to 500hp/1000Nm no joke) ua-cam.com/video/BgkSXE3Ph5w/v-deo.htmlsi=eBTrp7OvPw3ni4-v
and if there is interest i can say in short: The reason for cracked heads is from exhaust. With DPF/KAT there comes a heat problem (egt+emp) with the time and less flow. Even with stock software. With tuning stages even more/quicker.
The older 2,4jtd M-jet (841G.000, 129kw) has 6mm Valves and can handle heat a little better than the newer 2,4jtdm (939A9,154kw) with only 5mm Valves. Since i used open exhausts or 3,5" diameter in racing i have had NO cracked heads anymore. Even with R110, 2000++ bars railpressure, boost 2,8bars,WMI and NOS together. Always keep eye on EGT's and the problem is gone. Please go on with always good content 🔧💭
Hi! So what do you suggest to a stock 2.4 owner that wants it’s engine to last?
@@william_mazza oh that's clear : buy dpf and cat delete pipes, install it and make "dpf & egr off" in the software. Every chip tuner can do this for you. Then install little 'egr off' plate (only 6 screws near intake manifold) and join ur five cylinder🤗
I would like to do that but i fear the MOT, i think it would not pass
2.8 Bar?! :O Do you mean 1.8 Bar (plus 1 Bar of atmosphetic pressure)?
@@DashCamSerbia no😂🙏
WeFor all Alfa Romeo 159 brera spider potential customers: I strongly don't recommend buying models with a 2.4 engine. On the Internet you can see a lot of positive information regarding this engine but it's not true. I think more than 70% of cars have problems with head cracks and the main problem is that it's almost impossible to find a used good one. It means if you are faced with the same problem then be ready to throw the car in the junk yard. It's much better to buy 1.9 jtdm or 2.2 jts. I saw a lot of stupid meanings that 2.2 jts is a bad engine. But in real life the main problem with these engines is the only timing chain which is easy to change one time and never have more trouble with the engine. 1.9 diesel is fine as well only a couple problems such as swirls flaps and bad injectors after 200k+ kilometers. The main good news for the 1.9 engine is that the used parts market is full of good and cheap parts which you can buy easily. I hope my comment will be helpful for somebody!
I have a 2010 159 saloon manual, with 2.2 JTS engine. It still has original chain, and no chain related errors yet. It has 184.000 km (real mileage). It had a failed solenoid valve (one of them) when I got it, and I was lucky to find a new original one, and replaced it. No problems since then. Only thing is that the camshaft lobes are a bit worn, but not causing any issues. And the oil consumption. I also had some oil leak on the crankshaft front seal. So it was loosing about 230 mll of oil every 1.000 km. Now it looses (burns) about 160 ml.
The main problem is the parts availability. For diesels, you can buy new parts. For petrol engines, since 2020, 2021, 2022 or thereabouts, Afla no longer stocks new parts for them. And not even aftermarket manufacturers are making parts for petrol engines for 939 Alfas. For example engine mounts. Nowhere in the world you can find a single new one for sale, from any manufacturer. Not even no-name Chinese one. I even asked some Chinese sellers that work in engine mount factory in China, and they told me that they don't have it...
Hello. Just did the chains and water pump on one 2.2 this week, not easy. Did not record because I needed training first
@@alfaromeonoproblem Wow, nice! Too bad you did not record anyway. :(
Did you record anything else reggarding the 2.2 JTS engine?
@DashCamSerbia not yet, it's truly the first time and I do not feel comfortable yet recording. The timing sets were really difficult to replace. The water pump was the worse, my body did not like it at all
@@alfaromeonoproblem Well, I hope you at least took a look around the engine a bit, for future reference.
BTW, they say that for the 3.2 JTS, chain job is much much worse.
That is one of the reason why I think that the longitudinally mounted engines are the best solution.
I don't want to be ass but you make it and not much properly. You should disassemble the front of the car firstly and pull out the turbo instead of using the cran. The water reservoir can stay in the car. Regarding new parts: I strongly recommended using only Eleing gaskets! Victor rainz is shit and doesn't hold.
Maybe that would mean more work for him. If he is used to doing it this way, it would be quicker for him.
Both Elring and Vitcor Rainz are good gasket manufacturers. Corteco as weel (maybe the best even?). It just depends on the engine. For some engines, one manufacturer made the gasket better than for the others.
Hello. I did like this so anyone at home can do it. I know and I said that this is not the way. And I said that there is no need for the bottle to come out, but this one is broken.
Thanks for watching
And I only use original jackets for most locations.