I did this two years ago on my 166 V6, also replacing all the gaskets and seals but with the engine on the car. On 156/GT is not a lot of space, in 166 is plenty... Removing the crankshaft pulley was the most difficult part. You need a thin 41mm socket, a strong impact gun and a three-jaw puller. On your video this looks like a walk in the park :) You have a mark on the crank pulley for TDC (for reference only). Also there are marks on the camshafts. The camshaft sprockets are not keyed.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thanks Bruno, quite central then. I hope I don't need your services, but it's good to know there is a trustworthy specialist in the area if I have an alfa emergency.
Tack! This will come in handy this summer. You said in the beginning that this engine came from a wreck. How can you trust it without doing any leak down test or compression test?
A great tutorial video with clear instructions. I'm looking to put a 3.0 into my 155 and aim to change all the belts etc before the engine swap. A quick question, i noticed the wire clip on the coil connectors. I used to pull the clip out like you demonstrated but I've found that you simply just need to push down on the wire clip from the top and then it will release. Do those connectors not function that way ?
Hi. Would there be an opportunity to show us a video on cylinder head replacement on how to strip and reinstall hopefully on a single head and twin head types
Out of curiosity I had a v6 prv which looks a lot ( belt routing) to this lusso except that on the car I made there were phase shifters!!! a stupid question do you have to take out the engine for distribution or can we do it on the vehicle even if there is a little lack of space???
Cool video but sorry to say not all Busso V6 24v... The early type used in the Alfa 164 has a different tensioner and needs a special tool with a 2 kilo counterweight to give correct tension. I have one... that's how I know!! At least the cam locks are the same but the water pump is a unicorn just now....
Hi. I need to ask a question on the Cam locking tool. I noticed that the engraving on the cam locking tool said 2.5 and 3.0. I have a 3.2. Is there another different cam locking tool for the 3.2. Also, is the 3.2 an interference engine. if the belt gives way, do the pistons hit the valves, causing damage. Thanks
Do you think that if I used Dirko silicone on the water pump seals and thermostat, will it be good or bad? Will this silicone harden and let the coolant through? Install new seals and use Loctite (39:20)? I haven't started the engine yet...
Hey! Can you make a video on how to replace the starter in an AR 166 Busso with a catalytic converter behind the engine and how to remove the oil pan without removing the engine? I would like to replace the rubber o-rings at the oil pump...
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thank you, I can always count on you. The rest think they are nobody knows who and won't even reply... Do you think removing the catalytic converter will give me full access?
I need to remove the oil pan to replace the rubber o-rings on the oil pump. In my opinion, there is no pressure at the top. I will also check the condition of the connecting rod bearings. I think I need to hang the engine, then unscrew the oil filter mount, remove the axle shaft and lower the beam. Only then will I have access to all the oil pan bolts. What do you think?
very interesting... since mine is leaking a bit of oil on the (older model, using engine oil pressure) tensioner but had the cam belt done recently, I was wondering if it's at all possible to do this minimal job without the (horrible) special cam holders by reference marks etc.? The other idea, since I have a 3d printer and am semi-proficient in CAD, maybe it would be possible to print a couple different cam timing blocks.
Hello. I do not advise for that. Like I said on the video, the process of tensioning the belt, will move the cams. A external cam lock could work, but you do not know if the engine was timed correctly the last time
@@alfaromeonoproblemAh thanks, I see... so I guess either use a lock and repeat the last setting (right or wrong - I know it runs ok at least) or buy the overpriced Alfa tool, eh?
There is a 3.2jts engine in the 159 (crappy engine), fitting a busso in an 159 can be done but is a lot of work and I am sure some custom modifications have to be done.
@@alfaromeonoproblem and for the water pump? is it possible to change on the car? actually I have a small lift, that can pick up the car just for 1 meter, so I need to think could I make all before i come in trouble )) with understanding i am stuck on some moment Thank you in advance!
Nice but hmm, I would not grease the cam gear tapered surfaces. It relies on friction to transmit the torque, and the grease limits that. I doubt it would slip that easily, but that friction is all that is keeping it in time after all! Thanks for making the video!
I did the 24V on my 164 myself, with engine in. Pig of a job with a hydraulic tensioner and the limited space. It is absolutely a NO to lube the camshaft tapered surface where the pulleys go on. It can slip. Also, the cam pulley bolt torque is 110Nm, not 80Nm. (80Nm is the value on the TSB, but the workshop manual says 110). Check George Bonadies on YT for proof.
You surely dont know what you are doing. The bolts are NOT to be reused on the fasteners as they are too short and when rotating the engine you will strip the top part of the bolt hole. 2turns in an alu head means that you will pull the bolt out and strip the hole. You MUST use longer special bolts for the cam fasteners!!!
I did this two years ago on my 166 V6, also replacing all the gaskets and seals but with the engine on the car. On 156/GT is not a lot of space, in 166 is plenty...
Removing the crankshaft pulley was the most difficult part. You need a thin 41mm socket, a strong impact gun and a three-jaw puller. On your video this looks like a walk in the park :)
You have a mark on the crank pulley for TDC (for reference only). Also there are marks on the camshafts. The camshaft sprockets are not keyed.
Huge amount of work. Great, Bruno! Respect!
Thanks for watching! One of the coolest timings I ever did. And did two or three after this and it was amazing, even on the car
As usual very good content and methodical instructions. Thanks for all the work you put in making these videos!
Thank you very much for your support!
Very good video and explantation. Thank you.
Thank you very much for watching
Clear and concise as usual. Very good.
And thanks for watching, and for the support.
Where abouts are you in Portugal, just in case I need a Busso mechanic on my travels this month?
@jameskirk7746 I'm in Leiria area, Monte Real village. Near the air force base n5.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thanks Bruno, quite central then. I hope I don't need your services, but it's good to know there is a trustworthy specialist in the area if I have an alfa emergency.
47:30 If you change the cam belt on the car, you need that tool.
17:00 Not if you go to the dealer. They will charge the full working hours for both jobs.
You know it! Unfortunately..
Tack! This will come in handy this summer.
You said in the beginning that this engine came from a wreck. How can you trust it without doing any leak down test or compression test?
Hello. Very hard to know. The engine supplier assured warranty on it. And in fact it is s very healthy and good condition engine
educational video, thank you for the tutorial
Thanks for watching
A great tutorial video with clear instructions. I'm looking to put a 3.0 into my 155 and aim to change all the belts etc before the engine swap. A quick question, i noticed the wire clip on the coil connectors. I used to pull the clip out like you demonstrated but I've found that you simply just need to push down on the wire clip from the top and then it will release. Do those connectors not function that way ?
Hello. I try to avoid that at all costs, they usually break off..
Thanks for watching
Hi.
Would there be an opportunity to show us a video on cylinder head replacement on how to strip and reinstall hopefully on a single head and twin head types
Hello. A rebuild you mean? I do have some removals but no assembly do far, I will have two soon on a TS and a 5cyl 20v. On a V6 not yet
Great video as usual! Thank you
Out of curiosity I had a v6 prv which looks a lot ( belt routing) to this lusso except that on the car I made there were phase shifters!!!
a stupid question do you have to take out the engine for distribution or can we do it on the vehicle even if there is a little lack of space???
Hello. Never done a prv, but did some 2.7 and 3.0 hdi ford jaguar one.
No need to remove the engine
Cool video but sorry to say not all Busso V6 24v... The early type used in the Alfa 164 has a different tensioner and needs a special tool with a 2 kilo counterweight to give correct tension. I have one... that's how I know!! At least the cam locks are the same but the water pump is a unicorn just now....
Hello. Thank you very much for watching, and thank you for the information.
Hi.
I need to ask a question on the Cam locking tool.
I noticed that the engraving on the cam locking tool said 2.5 and 3.0. I have a 3.2. Is there another different cam locking tool for the 3.2.
Also, is the 3.2 an interference engine. if the belt gives way, do the pistons hit the valves, causing damage.
Thanks
Hello. Yes the 3.2 is a different set of tool. And yes, the engine will go KaBOOM
You're a Legend!! Thank you 💯
Thanks for watching
Do you think that if I used Dirko silicone on the water pump seals and thermostat, will it be good or bad? Will this silicone harden and let the coolant through? Install new seals and use Loctite (39:20)? I haven't started the engine yet...
Hello. I do not recommend any silicon glue.
Great work. Is that a engine out job?
Hello. Thanks for watching. I only did it in place on 166, and it's not a engine out. On other cars maybe
No it's not.
Bruno did you get the left and right cam locks mixed up ? Standing in front of cam pulleys left should be left os S on the lock not D ?
Hello. The ones fit just like this
hello, i have 3.0 V6 12v, is it the same to do or the 2 more camshaft makes it totally different ?
Hello. On the 12v uses no lock tools. ua-cam.com/video/tvowRWebTkY/v-deo.htmlsi=jZNrBIx57GCtheYu
@@alfaromeonoproblem thank you so much !
Hi.
Thank you for your very quick reply. This does help, and yes, we do sell hand grenades down here that go Kaboom!! Lol
I believe this is a much more expensive grenade. Lol.
Hope you can do it, the locks are quite expensive
How did you torque up the crank pulley?
Hello. I did not. I just used the impact gun.
Hi. I like your videos. Plz i need an advice. I have to replace my clutch kit on alfa147. Wht do you recommended valeo or luk? Thanks for replying
Hello. I have several videos for that. Please do use Luk ever.
ua-cam.com/video/NY4dxc2PHMY/v-deo.htmlsi=rhp3SG_zaEwYAube
Hey! Can you make a video on how to replace the starter in an AR 166 Busso with a catalytic converter behind the engine and how to remove the oil pan without removing the engine? I would like to replace the rubber o-rings at the oil pump...
Hello. Once I have a car for that I will. For the sump I have no idea yet.
For the starter you must remove the back manifold
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thank you, I can always count on you.
The rest think they are nobody knows who and won't even reply...
Do you think removing the catalytic converter will give me full access?
I need to remove the oil pan to replace the rubber o-rings on the oil pump. In my opinion, there is no pressure at the top. I will also check the condition of the connecting rod bearings. I think I need to hang the engine, then unscrew the oil filter mount, remove the axle shaft and lower the beam. Only then will I have access to all the oil pan bolts. What do you think?
@silentosu-x9n yes, we for sure! And it's not all that bad. Just dealing with rusty exhaust bolts..
@silentosu-x9n i did removed a oil pan on the engine stand, it's on the channel. Check out the playlist on the description below. Maybe it will help
very interesting... since mine is leaking a bit of oil on the (older model, using engine oil pressure) tensioner but had the cam belt done recently, I was wondering if it's at all possible to do this minimal job without the (horrible) special cam holders by reference marks etc.? The other idea, since I have a 3d printer and am semi-proficient in CAD, maybe it would be possible to print a couple different cam timing blocks.
Hello. I do not advise for that. Like I said on the video, the process of tensioning the belt, will move the cams.
A external cam lock could work, but you do not know if the engine was timed correctly the last time
@@alfaromeonoproblemAh thanks, I see... so I guess either use a lock and repeat the last setting (right or wrong - I know it runs ok at least) or buy the overpriced Alfa tool, eh?
@decnet100 there are aftermarket tools. Unfortunately with the Chinese market few are decent. Try to buy a set with warranty like I did
Thank you!!
Thanks for watching
Is there going to be a guide on how to remove and replace central display in Alfa 156?
No, not yet on my channel, sorry.
Okay, thank you. Keep up the good work
Very good video,
Can I put a 3.2 V6 on a 159 ?
At the moment it’s a 2.4 jtdm
Hello. Modifications are not my thing.. so I do not know. Also they are not allowed here in Portugal
There is a 3.2jts engine in the 159 (crappy engine), fitting a busso in an 159 can be done but is a lot of work and I am sure some custom modifications have to be done.
Would be nice if you record chow replace injectors in best ever alfa's engine - 2.0 JTS (direct injection).
Hello. Yes, but did not sell here in Portugal. Sorry.
Nice Bro,Do you Twin spark clip?
Hello, thanks for watching.
ua-cam.com/video/Uo3rg8mhEkU/v-deo.htmlsi=5JeC_qKPL0dSnke2
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thank so much
im so happy not working on alfla romeo last time i changed the starter only is a night mare.
What brand waterpump did u use... Great video bud.. Keep it going ❤😊
Also cant wait to stary my 2.5v6 project 🤗
Hello. I use what I can get. This one is a Graf if I recall.
Excellent explication !!!!
Thanks for watching!
20:02 Wow. Someone didn't change oil to often.
Where are you located? I’m considering purchasing a gtv6 and will probably need to replace the timing belt.
Hello. I'm in Portugal, Leiria area.
hi there, thank you for this useful video! Is it possible to change the belt without engine dismount?
Hello. Yes it is. I just did it like that because I did a swap afterwards
@@alfaromeonoproblem and for the water pump? is it possible to change on the car? actually I have a small lift, that can pick up the car just for 1 meter, so I need to think could I make all before i come in trouble )) with understanding i am stuck on some moment Thank you in advance!
@andriilahuta its possible to do on the car, but you have to remove the timing belt completely out
The Best camlocks are from BETA. They are expensive but fit perfect
Thank you very much
S stands for "Scarico" or "Scappamento" 😊
Your italian is close to be perfect!
Hello. I'm Portuguese, I'm just trying.. sorry.
@@alfaromeonoproblem do not Say sorry, It is just a detail. Your italian is much more better than my purtuguese 😂
Nice but hmm, I would not grease the cam gear tapered surfaces. It relies on friction to transmit the torque, and the grease limits that. I doubt it would slip that easily, but that friction is all that is keeping it in time after all! Thanks for making the video!
Hello. Thanks for watching. Benn doing it for 20 years now, no problem if you apply the correct tork
Hello,
Can I use antiseize hightemp graphite or copper grease or it should be something special?@@alfaromeonoproblem
@jla1875 use something that if it contacts the seals will not cause issues.
wauu, big job
And all complete for you guys! Thanks for watching
Now try it with the engine in the car.
I did. And I explained why I did this one off the car. Thanks for watching
I did the 24V on my 164 myself, with engine in. Pig of a job with a hydraulic tensioner and the limited space. It is absolutely a NO to lube the camshaft tapered surface where the pulleys go on. It can slip.
Also, the cam pulley bolt torque is 110Nm, not 80Nm. (80Nm is the value on the TSB, but the workshop manual says 110). Check George Bonadies on YT for proof.
Thanks for the info, thanks for watching
Pretty sure it's 80Nm.
You surely dont know what you are doing. The bolts are NOT to be reused on the fasteners as they are too short and when rotating the engine you will strip the top part of the bolt hole. 2turns in an alu head means that you will pull the bolt out and strip the hole. You MUST use longer special bolts for the cam fasteners!!!
I'm aware. I'm not using the locks to do any force or anything else. That's why I used the other tools too. Thanks for watching