I bought my 96 from this guy about 6000 miles ago, I now have 127000 on it. Had runability issuses immediately after I drove it home from the purchase. Oil seeping through valve cover connectors, so I installed new valve covers gaskets. Installed new CPS due to vehicle randomly dying and running rough. That fix has gotten me all the way to winter, now I’ve been fighting these cold weather starts. I realized my glow plug relay has never clicked on and I changed the EOT sensor today with a new pigtail. My HPOP was a 94.5-95 for some reason in my 96. Went with the newer sensor. Now my glow plug relay turns on!! All these “simple” fixes have been made possible mostly in thanks to your channel! I can’t thank you enough for providing such valuable content.
You are a life saver. I have a 00' F650 for a small business I started and your videos have really helped me gain some knowledge. Would be cool to see you do some videos on Forscan or a diagnostics program for the 7.3. You explain things very thoroughly. Thank you!
Thanks Brand new to the 7.3. I used to rebuild DT 466 Engines. My truck I just got seems like possible Injector issue but sort of a lifter tick. Avoiding taking off the valve cover just yet. Serviced the engine now and will delete EGR next. Doe's seem to have a lot of Blow buy. Revved up it doesn't seem to have a miss like at Idle. It's a 99 F-450. 114000 on it. Coolant and Oil are looking good. When I pull the valve cover I will also check the rocker arm. I hear they waller out and get sloppy. Thanks again New Subscriber who pushes the Like Button every time.
I love being retired, I can binge watch your vids and drive you crazy with all my comments telling you how much I appreciate them! LOL Good stuff bud. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for your channel. My 7.3 has been nothing, but headaches for me as it’s my first diesel ever owned. But you have made owning a diesel a little simpler. Keep up the good work.
@@justmemrb unfortunately, it hasn’t gotten any better. It’s become my grocery getter and every once in a while do I use it for towing or hauling things around. Gonna get rid of it soon.
4:38 interesting that my truck has the exact opposite symptoms. runs great on cold starts, runs rough when warm rough idle when warm miss/hesitation at hard pedal high rpm, light pedal low rpm is fine holding high rpm in neutral causes surging and cutouts forscan says my EOT sits at around 190f
Mines flashing with fuel light and misses at same time 99 f 250 7.3 manual trans ... been through most of your videos Removed engine harness and inspected. Cleaned and taped and reinstalled , changed a bunch of sensor and pcm Still does it . Water light comes on occasionally and checked bowl . No water . Drained and fresh fuel . Still same
Iv got a crank no start an I've started updating all the stuff you say to ,still gotta check the valve cover gaskets yet an the oil temp sensor an gonna swap out the old pedestal to eliminate the common oil leak.
good advice. i had an intermittant check engine light that responded to light throttle and no throttle. do not have fancy diagnostic tools. i changed engine oil temp sensor on back of hpop resivour and no check engine light. 300,000 miles on motor.....thanks.
I swapped out this sensor because my test set was telling me it was bad and had defaulted to -20F. The new sensor reads the same, and the engine is running really rough. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. I'm having a hard start issue with my 2002 7.3 with 236,000 miles and I've done everything but replace the injectors! This is a cheap and easy install so I'll try this today if I can find one. Or, I'll just order one. Thanks again.
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you for your quick response. I've covered most of that but my truck only has a hard start in the mornings or when it hasn't been cranked in 8-12 hrs. I pulled the clip off my icp and it has a good bit of oil on it and some leaking I hadn't seen before. I'm going to replace that too. Thanks again for your videos and your time.
Your low pressure oil pump may be allowing the the high pressure pump reservoir to seep back to the crankcase. Check the oil level in the HPOP reservoir before you try to start. Low oil there means no start.
I don't recall my 95 7.3L going that high ever when idling. Wonder now if my oil temp sensor may be acting up all these years even though there's no codes or any symptoms of it failing. Also wonder now if that's also why my exhaust back pressure valve when it's really cold out will close up when I put the truck in gear and pull out the driveway with very little pedal in it, but then open right back up once I roll a little more pedal into it. 🤔
I changed the IPR valve and the ICP before I realized it was my crankshaft positioning sensor. Don't judge me. Whether I'm getting a little flicker of a check engine light and light flicker like that the whole time I'm driving. But there are no drivability issues. Any ideas? No SES light issues before the repairs. By the way I enjoy your videos. It's already in my favorite alongside diesel tech Ron and diesel powerstrokehelp The IPR valve and the camshaft positioning valve roem the ICP is aftermarket and I did not change the wiring to the ICP
To many variables you need to get the codes pulled from the pcm , Flickering light usually is a bad, loose wire and always remember new parts can be defective
No one around me has the eot sensor near me and delivery a long time but i did see they had the coolant sensor looks the same but can i use that instead its a on 1994 diesel i dont think so though
I own a 2002 XLT Super Duty 7.3 with the 4R100 transmission (maybe, I'm the 3rd owner) and went to replace the Automatic Transmission Sensor and found no wires to a sensor and saw no sensor. Now I have a mystery to solve. Possible I was looking right at it but didn't see. Can it be behind the valve body where the 2 solenoids are located? ... Would like to contribute monetarily but have found nowhere at your site to do so. Thank you. Oh, is it possible to have the other oil sensor to the left and up front even though I do no have a manual transmission? Did install the oil sensor on the back of the high pressure oil reservoir and idling much better from cold start now. Transmission shifts better too it seems.
Do early 99 trucks have different parameters for when high idle is activated? When I first bought my truck, it never would increase idle speed, regardless of temperature. I installed a TS 6-position tuner and it would idle up normally, but more recently upgraded to a hydra and it no longer goes into high idle.
Its a must as long as you won't be installing a Adrenaline HPOP then its not necessary . The x over really quiets the engine down and equalizes the flow
I replaced the EOT sensor because I have been experiencing the miss/hesitation st the 1500 RPM range with light throttle. After replacing it I watched it on the Autoenginuity scan tool and when the oil reaches 150* it starts acting up again. I replaced it after doing a contribution test the tool said it was out of range. Been fighting this "death rattle" for a year and am no closer to fixing it. I quit driving/being towed home a year ago. Any help will be appreciated.
It would be helpfull to see a video while cold then hot when it happens BUT I have to make some assumptions soooo I keep track in my service computer of issues and fixes over the years here is the list, injector spring broke even though it pasted all tests/ installed the black CPS instead of the gray stopped the problem/ wires harness under valve cover / bad plug pre valve cover harness/ cracked piston Misfire only at 1480 to 1630/ valve seat and valve the spring set to high started pulling the valve through the seat / wire harness connection that big plug on drivers side valve cover the wires where worn and grounding only when valve cover got hot.
I have a code... Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Low. The truck idles REAL strange. A lot of clatter. Then, it'll seem better when its warmer, but it'll randomly start running rough and surging. If you rev it above 1500rpm, it'll die if the engine is too cold. It smokes a LOT.
sound like more than 1 sensor or one issue ,,, pull the OTS get a ohm meter and a heat gun/hair blow dryer hook up the ohm meter to the sensor best to use gator clips the sensor at 70 degree's f should read around 2.7 ohm hit it with the gun/dryer the numbers should fall but not any further then .166 if it gets here that sensor is bad
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Clint... I discovered the issue, this afternoon! After a scan, I had cylinder 3 high to low side open awhile back, and thought nothing of it. Wired super duty uvch connectors in, and it actually ran... like dogshit. Lol! I related my failed CCT for #1 and# 3 to the #3 high to low side open and pulled the harness. Sure enough, #3 injector circuit was full of resistance. Inside the wire was black. Replaced the wire, and it runs better than I've ever heard it! No more smoke. It has the turbo you recently reviewed installed on it, as well! Hope to have it on the road at the end of summer! Great thanks, from New Hampshire, United States! Subscribed, sir! New harness in the future!
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD 1997, hydra tuned, and manual. I would assume it's all due to the tuner but then again in the "stock mode" it still had never let the idle raise or any of that
That is a clear sign of a failing HPOP and or a LPOP either way if none of these 2 have ever been replaced do both at the same time //// go here and get the adrenaline model www.dieselsite.com/1994-200373ldieselsiteadrenalinehpop.aspx ///// and here for the lpop www.dieselsite.com/dieselsite73lhighvolumelowpressureoilpump.aspx ////// A additional oil cooler won't do much with that kind of load you need much more oil ,. Also if you are getting a high temp light for coolant if I am misunderstanding you you need a thicker radiator
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you! No, temp of coolant is fine... just the engine warn goes off and then it runs rough until I restart the engine... only does it with a real heavy load up hills.
@@gixxer4eva monitor the fuel pressure also you can hook up a fuel gauge on the back of the bowl anything under 50 psi you could have clogged filter or upgrade to a fass or airdog high volume fuel pump another though but more than likely the first comment
Hey Clint, I own a 5/98 built truck that seems to have late 99 sensors and early 99 turbo. Have you seen that before? Btw, I'm replacing a counterfeit motorcraft icp that failed immediately. Ebay be damned.
always try hot shot fuel treatment and there sticksion treatment if it improves you know the injectors need attention could need a rebuild or just a poppet shimming
Two things... do you know the Kelvin temps?? and my favorite is... Is that adjustable wrench Metric or Standard?? I set the wife a huntin for that elusive Metric wrench once 🤣😂😎
Jeez haven't had to deal with Kelvin since crane engineer school The trainer was all about that. I do have a true metric adjustable with metric scale on the jaw The odd part its from Germany instead of China and have no clue how I ended up with it, but I keep it in my service truck acts as a Wrench, Hammer, Crow bar, Spacer. Love the wife story though
Hey Clint your by far the smartest 7.3 mechanic I know of I wish I had more to donate. I have a head scratcher local mechanic cant figure it out or just likes taking my money idk, however hopefully you can help. So I have a 7.3 says its a 99 but in the door its says 06/00 just incase that matters for what I'm about to ask you. This has been happening for awhile now cant say exactly for how long, but when my truck is warmed up and lets say I'm backing up to put on my truck camper I'm constantly going forward and backward trying to get it lined up. However for some reason if I'm ever stopped and turn the wheel it try's to die or even sometimes does die. I can put into park and fires right back up but I feel it shouldn't do this. Just this weekend drove about 2 hours to camp we stopped at camp boss shack to pay and while I was waiting in truck it was fine but soon as I put into drive and tried to turn it tried to stall out, or few weeks back when my brother flew up to visit was waiting at the airport line for him to throw his bags in and soon as i cut the wheel to pull off out of line it stalled but again it did fire right back up. I cant tell if it idols rough cause its a 7.3 and seems normal and the rpms seem fine when sitting at a red light. Also doesn't seem to matter if its reverse or drive. i had a friend who owns a 7.3 say change the oil changed the fuel filter which I'm going to cause its pretty close to that time but i cant imagine that is the cause. I apologize if this is confusing I'm horrible at typing lol
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD the steering is still janky from dead stop its like it draws a lot of power. All my other issues were caused my damn field mice chewing through wires. I did what you said and bought a engine harness installed and problem didn't go away had it towed well guess i should have changed the harness from engine harness to PCM cost 2700 buck for them to figure out and repair but she definitely runs better.
I bought my 96 from this guy about 6000 miles ago, I now have 127000 on it. Had runability issuses immediately after I drove it home from the purchase.
Oil seeping through valve cover connectors, so I installed new valve covers gaskets.
Installed new CPS due to vehicle randomly dying and running rough. That fix has gotten me all the way to winter, now I’ve been fighting these cold weather starts.
I realized my glow plug relay has never clicked on and I changed the EOT sensor today with a new pigtail.
My HPOP was a 94.5-95 for some reason in my 96. Went with the newer sensor. Now my glow plug relay turns on!!
All these “simple” fixes have been made possible mostly in thanks to your channel! I can’t thank you enough for providing such valuable content.
You are the only person to really explain the 7.3. Thank you and please keep it up.
Arthur/ 1996 F350 powerstroke/ auto trans.
You are a life saver. I have a 00' F650 for a small business I started and your videos have really helped me gain some knowledge. Would be cool to see you do some videos on Forscan or a diagnostics program for the 7.3. You explain things very thoroughly. Thank you!
Informative, good visuals and presentation very well done.
Thanks Brand new to the 7.3. I used to rebuild DT 466 Engines. My truck I just got seems like possible Injector issue but sort of a lifter tick. Avoiding taking off the valve cover just yet. Serviced the engine now and will delete EGR next. Doe's seem to have a lot of Blow buy. Revved up it doesn't seem to have a miss like at Idle. It's a 99 F-450. 114000 on it. Coolant and Oil are looking good. When I pull the valve cover I will also check the rocker arm. I hear they waller out and get sloppy. Thanks again New Subscriber who pushes the Like Button every time.
Your channel is a wealth of information I wish I’d seen years ago. Thank you sir!
You are very welcome
Loving the 7.3 content.
Awesome video! Love that you put the parts your talking about up so we can see them.
I love being retired, I can binge watch your vids and drive you crazy with all my comments telling you how much I appreciate them! LOL
Good stuff bud. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Love the videos cuz Great info... plus I've had my 2000 F-250 7.3 'Big Blue' for 22 years and counting!
Right on!
Thank you sir for the free information 👍
My pleasure
Thank you for your channel. My 7.3 has been nothing, but headaches for me as it’s my first diesel ever owned. But you have made owning a diesel a little simpler. Keep up the good work.
For me i got an OBS 7.3 and everything is falling apart but the engine lol
@@justmemrb unfortunately, it hasn’t gotten any better. It’s become my grocery getter and every once in a while do I use it for towing or hauling things around. Gonna get rid of it soon.
4:38 interesting that my truck has the exact opposite symptoms.
runs great on cold starts, runs rough when warm
rough idle when warm
miss/hesitation at hard pedal high rpm, light pedal low rpm is fine
holding high rpm in neutral causes surging and cutouts
forscan says my EOT sits at around 190f
Mines flashing with fuel light and misses at same time
99 f 250 7.3 manual trans ... been through most of your videos
Removed engine harness and inspected. Cleaned and taped and reinstalled , changed a bunch of sensor and pcm
Still does it .
Water light comes on occasionally and checked bowl . No water .
Drained and fresh fuel .
Still same
Another great vedeo 👏👏👍 thanks for showing us all this details 👌 👍 😀 cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
what would you consider 'high' oil temps?
Iv got a crank no start an I've started updating all the stuff you say to ,still gotta check the valve cover gaskets yet an the oil temp sensor an gonna swap out the old pedestal to eliminate the common oil leak.
good advice. i had an intermittant check engine light that responded to light throttle and no throttle. do not have fancy diagnostic tools. i changed engine oil temp sensor on back of hpop resivour and no check engine light. 300,000 miles on motor.....thanks.
I swapped out this sensor because my test set was telling me it was bad and had defaulted to -20F. The new sensor reads the same, and the engine is running really rough. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. I'm having a hard start issue with my 2002 7.3 with 236,000 miles and I've done everything but replace the injectors! This is a cheap and easy install so I'll try this today if I can find one. Or, I'll just order one. Thanks again.
P.s....64 ounces of hotshot stiction eliminator in my last oil change hasn't changed a thing. Neither has the hotshot fuel additive.
@@marcuswyatt5642 did we hit down on all of these ua-cam.com/video/ZJ5BSBntTzA/v-deo.html
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you for your quick response. I've covered most of that but my truck only has a hard start in the mornings or when it hasn't been cranked in 8-12 hrs. I pulled the clip off my icp and it has a good bit of oil on it and some leaking I hadn't seen before. I'm going to replace that too. Thanks again for your videos and your time.
Your low pressure oil pump may be allowing the the high pressure pump reservoir to seep back to the crankcase. Check the oil level in the HPOP reservoir before you try to start. Low oil there means no start.
@@brendawernicke7663 my hpop oil level is fine. Thanks though.
I don't recall my 95 7.3L going that high ever when idling. Wonder now if my oil temp sensor may be acting up all these years even though there's no codes or any symptoms of it failing. Also wonder now if that's also why my exhaust back pressure valve when it's really cold out will close up when I put the truck in gear and pull out the driveway with very little pedal in it, but then open right back up once I roll a little more pedal into it. 🤔
Another great video! Thank you for the information!
Our pleasure!
Any good ideas on locations for oil temp gage ?
Great channel. Everyone should subscribe!
I changed the IPR valve and the ICP before I realized it was my crankshaft positioning sensor. Don't judge me. Whether I'm getting a little flicker of a check engine light and light flicker like that the whole time I'm driving. But there are no drivability issues. Any ideas? No SES light issues before the repairs. By the way I enjoy your videos. It's already in my favorite alongside diesel tech Ron and diesel powerstrokehelp
The IPR valve and the camshaft positioning valve roem the ICP is aftermarket and I did not change the wiring to the ICP
To many variables you need to get the codes pulled from the pcm , Flickering light usually is a bad, loose wire and always remember new parts can be defective
No one around me has the eot sensor near me and delivery a long time but i did see they had the coolant sensor looks the same but can i use that instead its a on 1994 diesel i dont think so though
Does it matter which way it gets wires?
I own a 2002 XLT Super Duty 7.3 with the 4R100 transmission (maybe, I'm the 3rd owner) and went to replace the Automatic Transmission Sensor and found no wires to a sensor and saw no sensor. Now I have a mystery to solve. Possible I was looking right at it but didn't see. Can it be behind the valve body where the 2 solenoids are located? ... Would like to contribute monetarily but have found nowhere at your site to do so. Thank you. Oh, is it possible to have the other oil sensor to the left and up front even though I do no have a manual transmission? Did install the oil sensor on the back of the high pressure oil reservoir and idling much better from cold start now. Transmission shifts better too it seems.
@@johndowe7003 yes thank you
Do early 99 trucks have different parameters for when high idle is activated? When I first bought my truck, it never would increase idle speed, regardless of temperature. I installed a TS 6-position tuner and it would idle up normally, but more recently upgraded to a hydra and it no longer goes into high idle.
Clint what's your thoughts about the high pressure oil crossover line modification?
Its a must as long as you won't be installing a Adrenaline HPOP then its not necessary . The x over really quiets the engine down and equalizes the flow
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you for the fast response and sharing your wisdom with us all 👍👍
Thanks for the great info 👍
What about explanation for P0196 ?
Can you recommend thrusting company for this pcms
Thanks
I replaced the EOT sensor because I have been experiencing the miss/hesitation st the 1500 RPM range with light throttle. After replacing it I watched it on the Autoenginuity scan tool and when the oil reaches 150* it starts acting up again. I replaced it after doing a contribution test the tool said it was out of range. Been fighting this "death rattle" for a year and am no closer to fixing it. I quit driving/being towed home a year ago. Any help will be appreciated.
It would be helpfull to see a video while cold then hot when it happens BUT I have to make some assumptions soooo I keep track in my service computer of issues and fixes over the years here is the list, injector spring broke even though it pasted all tests/ installed the black CPS instead of the gray stopped the problem/ wires harness under valve cover / bad plug pre valve cover harness/ cracked piston Misfire only at 1480 to 1630/ valve seat and valve the spring set to high started pulling the valve through the seat / wire harness connection that big plug on drivers side valve cover the wires where worn and grounding only when valve cover got hot.
After changing the eot do u have to put oil back in the truck
Is this for oil temperature or coolant temperature?
oil temp ??? yes
2k f250 brand new icp ipr cps and idm all motorcraft, still has low icp voltage code dies at every stop light when deceleration. Bad Hpop ??
I have a code... Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Low. The truck idles REAL strange. A lot of clatter. Then, it'll seem better when its warmer, but it'll randomly start running rough and surging. If you rev it above 1500rpm, it'll die if the engine is too cold. It smokes a LOT.
sound like more than 1 sensor or one issue ,,, pull the OTS get a ohm meter and a heat gun/hair blow dryer hook up the ohm meter to the sensor best to use gator clips the sensor at 70 degree's f should read around 2.7 ohm hit it with the gun/dryer the numbers should fall but not any further then .166 if it gets here that sensor is bad
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Clint... I discovered the issue, this afternoon! After a scan, I had cylinder 3 high to low side open awhile back, and thought nothing of it. Wired super duty uvch connectors in, and it actually ran... like dogshit. Lol! I related my failed CCT for #1 and# 3 to the #3 high to low side open and pulled the harness. Sure enough, #3 injector circuit was full of resistance. Inside the wire was black. Replaced the wire, and it runs better than I've ever heard it! No more smoke. It has the turbo you recently reviewed installed on it, as well! Hope to have it on the road at the end of summer! Great thanks, from New Hampshire, United States! Subscribed, sir! New harness in the future!
So what if my truck is showing below 158° EOT on scan tool but my idle isnt riased to to 950?
depends on the transmission ,tuner settings , year
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD 1997, hydra tuned, and manual. I would assume it's all due to the tuner but then again in the "stock mode" it still had never let the idle raise or any of that
Why my fuse box is making noise on 2002 Ford f550 7.3 power stroke
? relay shorting out
How can I add additional oil cooling? I have a t444e dump truck and get a engine warn light when I climb hils with a full 7 ton load.
That is a clear sign of a failing HPOP and or a LPOP either way if none of these 2 have ever been replaced do both at the same time //// go here and get the adrenaline model www.dieselsite.com/1994-200373ldieselsiteadrenalinehpop.aspx ///// and here for the lpop www.dieselsite.com/dieselsite73lhighvolumelowpressureoilpump.aspx ////// A additional oil cooler won't do much with that kind of load you need much more oil ,. Also if you are getting a high temp light for coolant if I am misunderstanding you you need a thicker radiator
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you! No, temp of coolant is fine... just the engine warn goes off and then it runs rough until I restart the engine... only does it with a real heavy load up hills.
@@gixxer4eva monitor the fuel pressure also you can hook up a fuel gauge on the back of the bowl anything under 50 psi you could have clogged filter or upgrade to a fass or airdog high volume fuel pump another though but more than likely the first comment
Hey Clint, I own a 5/98 built truck that seems to have late 99 sensors and early 99 turbo. Have you seen that before? Btw, I'm replacing a counterfeit motorcraft icp that failed immediately. Ebay be damned.
Oh yes 98 to early 99 was and is normal for a mfg to use up old parts or intro new parts early on old models Makes working on them a adventure
Would this cause a crank no start on 02 ?
no ,,, here is a over all check list ua-cam.com/video/6vQ9Jh0Jxhc/v-deo.html
Thanks!
You bet! AND THANK U
My truck oil gage goes when I throttle but when I’m driving and get above around 40 it will starts to shutter real bad and bog down and die
You need a running diagnostic if you don't have any po codes
Mine is reverse of this. Good cold but rough warm
always try hot shot fuel treatment and there sticksion treatment if it improves you know the injectors need attention could need a rebuild or just a poppet shimming
Two things... do you know the Kelvin temps?? and my favorite is... Is that adjustable wrench Metric or Standard?? I set the wife a huntin for that elusive Metric wrench once 🤣😂😎
Jeez haven't had to deal with Kelvin since crane engineer school The trainer was all about that. I do have a true metric adjustable with metric scale on the jaw The odd part its from Germany instead of China and have no clue how I ended up with it, but I keep it in my service truck acts as a Wrench, Hammer, Crow bar, Spacer. Love the wife story though
Can i put teflon tape??? Asking for a friend
2 wraps as long as its not a tampered thread
bet you wont say
Thanks!
Hey Clint your by far the smartest 7.3 mechanic I know of I wish I had more to donate. I have a head scratcher local mechanic cant figure it out or just likes taking my money idk, however hopefully you can help. So I have a 7.3 says its a 99 but in the door its says 06/00 just incase that matters for what I'm about to ask you. This has been happening for awhile now cant say exactly for how long, but when my truck is warmed up and lets say I'm backing up to put on my truck camper I'm constantly going forward and backward trying to get it lined up. However for some reason if I'm ever stopped and turn the wheel it try's to die or even sometimes does die. I can put into park and fires right back up but I feel it shouldn't do this. Just this weekend drove about 2 hours to camp we stopped at camp boss shack to pay and while I was waiting in truck it was fine but soon as I put into drive and tried to turn it tried to stall out, or few weeks back when my brother flew up to visit was waiting at the airport line for him to throw his bags in and soon as i cut the wheel to pull off out of line it stalled but again it did fire right back up. I cant tell if it idols rough cause its a 7.3 and seems normal and the rpms seem fine when sitting at a red light. Also doesn't seem to matter if its reverse or drive. i had a friend who owns a 7.3 say change the oil changed the fuel filter which I'm going to cause its pretty close to that time but i cant imagine that is the cause. I apologize if this is confusing I'm horrible at typing lol
I first figured out this part of youtube did you find the issue or is it still persistent
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD the steering is still janky from dead stop its like it draws a lot of power. All my other issues were caused my damn field mice chewing through wires. I did what you said and bought a engine harness installed and problem didn't go away had it towed well guess i should have changed the harness from engine harness to PCM cost 2700 buck for them to figure out and repair but she definitely runs better.