Hi Clint, thank you so much for your video's, I changed all sensors and put in new harness and IDM still had rough idle ,watched your vid and fitted the 86Industries (Fischer Bro's) spring = Problem solved, it was a costly $$$$ diagnosis here in Australia as most of our parts people supply after market junk from another place I won't mention I rely on your video's and RiffRaff (Clay) shipping is a killer but worth it for Ford OEM parts. Kind regards from the Pilbara Western Australia. My truck is Aus spec 2005 S/Duty 7.3 made in Brazil and has done a lot of outback work. Stay safe.
Interesting that you have a 2005 with a 7.3. As you're likely aware, in the states, the 7.3s ended in 2003 when the 6 Blows came out. Had no idea the 7.3s lived on. Happy trucking...
@@melrobinson6919 Yes Ford produced them with Australian spec they stopped after the 7.3 if you wanted a Fseries after 2005 you had to import one and convert it to RH drive.
@@banjomaisey9050Thanks, I learned something new today....hah. I imagine you may be thankful you didn't get the 6 Ohhhh. The owners of those I've spoken to...most have been very unhappy and out thou$ands keeping them running.
@@melrobinson6919 No problem my friend, I know of a few 6Ohhhh disasters that were purchased in USA and imported then converted to RH drive Aus spec and they had nothing but trouble, Ford lost the plot with that power plant? To import a F250 S/Duty and convert was working out AU$150K I brought mine new off the shelf from a Ford dealer local and fitted it out for Outback work, ARB Bullbar Warn winch 270litre long range fuel tank and got rid of the vacuum hubs and fitted warn freewheel hubs. Thanks for the replies it is great to talk to you guys in the states , you are lucky as access to parts would be great I use Riffraff for a lot of mine Clay is amazing but the freight can be a killer. Stay safe , kindest regards from the Pilbara Western Australia.
@@banjomaisey9050Interesting additional info, so thanks again. I can't imagine the disappointment and frustration dropping $150 grand on a 6.0 only to experience that misery. Take care, my friend. I enjoyed the conversation....
For those wondering, you CAN get a brand new main engine harness still. Riff Raff Diesel sells them. You just have to send them your VIN so they can make sure they send you the correct harness. So no you don’t have to rebuild your old harness anymore.
@@hawkeye1776, sweet. I have only changed out my ICP and CAM sensor. Haven’t had to change out the harness because mine is in good shape still. I just so happened to stumble upon riff raff selling harnesses by accident and i kept that in mind when the time comes ever since.
@@hawkeye1776, cool! I haven’t had the need to replace all the sensors yet since mine is still a baby at 158K. Really only replaced the CAM sensor as a precautionary measure. Had to replace the ICP because it was just starting to leak through to the connector but the connector was undamaged.
@@hawkeye1776, i’ve been a master diesel tech for years as well. I never said anything about building an engine that will blow up at 100K. I know how to build a diesel engine. My 7.3L fuel system has already been fully upgraded minus a sump and FASS or Airdog fuel pump (which will be next). I have a fuel return kit already installed so there will be no “deadhead” issues with the fuel. And in reality the turbo for any year 7.3L is too small for the size of the engine. The Garrett GT38R or a turbo from KC turbos or Ryan’s diesel service are a drastic improvement over stock or even a factory housing with upgraded internals.
Early 1999 F250: I have a totally different surging. Engine is cold and surging 1,000 rpm’s every minute. On Forscan you can visually see the IPR build until it crashes at or around 40%. It smooths back out for a few seconds and surges again. It does this until the oil temp gets to 160 degrees and then I’m good. I still have the bucking in 1st & 2nd gears though. All New; Main Harness, Valve Cover Harnesses, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure at 62 with no drops in pressure, Ford ICP, IPR, every sensor has been changed out with Ford brand, High Voltage IDM, Stage 1 High Pressure Oil Pump, Hybrid 180cc 80% nozzle injectors, Gas Peddle, Transmission, Slave Cylinder & so much more. I have spent over $4,000 chasing this problem not counting Transmission, it had 423,000 miles on it and was tired. Problem started after 37,000 miles on rebuilt motor. I have videos of the Forscan numbers during operation showing IPR numbers. Truck has 53,000 miles on rebuilt engine and 423,000 over all. I’ve learned to live with it instead of keep throwing money at it, but would be nice to get it figured out.
@@johnhof5657, does your ICP pressure hold strong? May have a failing stage 1 pump even though you’ve recently replaced it. Or it can be a situation where your low pressure pump is having a hard time delivering the oil needed for the high pressure pump to operate correctly.
After I swapped out the chinesium IPC, IPR and cam sensor, my truck started running great again. There are certain things in life that you can't save money on and that is those three items. Buy verified OEM only. Had to replace several connectors, but the wiring in the truck isn't too bad for a 99.5 model. I installed new Alliant injectors as well, because it still had original Ford installed injectors with 317k miles and cylinder #1 was not getting enough fuel. That cylinder was a dead miss, wasn't contributing. #6 and #8 seemed to run hotter than the rest, so just did all injectors and glow plugs at that point and now the truck starts/runs like a brand new diesel, thanks in great part to your videos. Love it. Also installed a Powerstroke 6.4 liter starter and now it cranks so fast you think it's at idle speed before it even lights off.
Thanks again Clint! 97 auto here, got all my goodies from riff raff. Truck was doing strange things at 45 mph, check engine would come on and felt like someone else was pressing gas pedal. New oem icp installed and that issue has gone away. Still waiting on oil sample from black stone. And haven’t had the time for ccv catch can yet. Your insight on these trucks are amazing. The time and $ you have saved me are unimaginable. How is the obs project coming along? Still waiting on blacksone results
Clint thanks you have been my go-to everytime I had any trouble with my ob's 7.3. I have a question about what I need to do with all the extra plugs left over after my fuel bowl delete and efuel install etc. Please and thank you Sir.
Thanks for the info Clint again a great helpful video makes the 7.3 easy to understand and rock the road and is still cheaper then a new one at 80.000$ hahahahaa pavement princess
1997 2wd 7.3 10 sec after start up (perfect idle) idle jumps iratic like it's running on 3 cylinders, but improves just a little when idle for a lengthof time (new wire harness from Swag) new icp, ipr, cam sensors, new IDM, ICP still not fixed problem fault resets everytime key on and off but on while running
Similar to mine and replacing all the same parts as you. Checked fuel pressure and it was at 94 psi. Previous owner installed the blue spring in regulator. I put stock spring back in, idles perfect. Similar but I had no fault codes.
Clint, I wish you could do 6.0 tech talk for all us 6.0 lovers out here. We’ve lost Ron and now Bill 😢. Lots of 6 liters out there and we’re keeping them going. 💪🏼🇺🇸🦅
Thank you so much for taking the time to post all your videos. Can 1 bad injector cause the truck to run for a second then die? 02 powerstroke. Frustrated to the point of throwing parts at it. Parts thrown-new valve harness and under valve harness, new wire harness, new cps (ford), new ipr, new icm, new pcm. Everything ohms correctly at the icm plug. Even the #3 injector that is throwing po267 (low to high open) and p1273 (high to low open). New injector on the way, but would think the truck would still start and run with one bad injector. The wires look good where they cross over the valve cover. It starts right up, runs good for a second then very rough then dies. I can put my foot on the gas pedal when I start it and it will start, rev up, run rough then die. Tried unplugging the ICP same results. Fuel pump easily fills the bowl, but have not checked the pressure yet as the pump is newer. I really thought I was chasing a wiring-sensor-module problem. After reading back through this post I think it might be on the fuel side. Sorry this is so long. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
"A short like that" meaning what? He didn't mention any particular short so can you be more specific & how it relates to his symptoms? I've literally been trying to fix my '02 Lariat 4x4 for YEARS and NO ONE seems to know they're ass from a hole in the ground!! After watching Clint's video, I'm thinking all the ground wires & connections are what I need to check! I've literally spent thousands upon thousands with multiple diesel mechanics that have NEVER resolved my problem and I've discovered that it's primarily CAC (Con Artist Communication) at their best! They BS their way through everything they aren't capable of fixing, take your money & then leave you & your family stranded in the middle of no where on I-95N on Thanksgiving Eve night! So when I read all these comments, every word carries a lot of weight for me so they need to make sense!
@@keithace1 I'm speculating, but I believe he was talking about the internal short in the injector that I had listed as bad, and was throwing the codes.
Clint surging idle on 01 7.3 follows intermittent windshield wipers, no surge on highest setting or off. Surge seems a bid more dramatic with lights on.
Thanks for the vid . I have a project 99 7.3 with some stif steering wheen at a stand still , i still have some further diagnosing but im suspecting the steering pump but i might also look into the hydroboost. This video was very helpful .
I have a 97 7.3 with 228k ml, my issue with a surging idle happens whether it's cold or hot and is a more aggressive romp from like 700 to 1200 rpm and will not stop til I push a little on accelerator. Now if I change the tune 1 step up on the hydra from stock it won't do it, one person told me it was the trans selector on the side of the transmission. Thanks
I’ve got the symptoms in idle of icp. But it’s new and international brand. New ipr as well. Was getting a code first thing in the morning only pressure hi low . If I’d start the truck let it run a min. Turn off and restart the code be gone for the day.. ipr replacement fixed that. Still got a idle hunting about 100 rpm. Actually more like 50-75 rpm now that I did the oil crossover
Hey clint My 99 sd has the slight surge all the time cold or hot since the day I bought it can the icp still be the issue or is it only when hot like you mentioned in video? Or is it something else?
Very good info. Have some electric problems with a 7.3 early 99, April 15 1998 engine mfg date. Received a new engine wire harness which was incorrect for this engine, in process of correcting problem. Original symptoms were weak crank, check engine light stayed on about 2 minutes light goes off immediately rpm surge followed by irratic running of engine. As the engine warms it levels out andruns smoothly, however has a tendency to surge at low speeds. Also the alternator got quite hot quickly on starting ( had slight current feed back with key off in plug for wires) short in alt? brush dust at fields to armature? Will replace with new alternator. Checking harness for damage, hopefully can get the correct new one . Anyway, thanks for your invaluable information. Great video.
Hi Clint, new sub here. I have an 01 excursion 7.3 289k. The engine will hiccup, like hitting a kill switch on a gas engine for a millisecond. Not just one cylinder, all cut out for a second. It’s usually around 2k rpm. I’ve replaced CPS and ICP sensors. Harness over left valve cover has been repaired after rubbing through on the valve cover. I’ve been driving it like this for years. Sometimes, no miss, other times, really bad. No check engine light. Cheap scanner shows no codes. Help! Thanks from Florida 🇺🇸
Wow that IPR sound is what i have when it warms up, i call it the old freight train sound but it only does it warm and im pretty sure i changed the IPR, they are not cheap. I wonder if cleaning it will help?
Clint, this is off the subject. I have a 2001 f250 7.3. I got new, and I only have 69000 miles on it. I keep up with all the maintenance on it. But was wondering if there is anything I need to do on it being its 23 years old. No tunes in it don't care for them. I need to change the icp out after watching your video. I went and checked it and had oil in it. I use it mostly to pull our camper around, and I keep it parked in my shop when not using it. Last camp trip we had a few bad rain and cold weather went to start it and started no problem then check engine light came on and I had no petal went light went out 3 to 5 seconds i had petal again. Did it all the way back home, pulling camper. Then it was like it would buck like in over drive when leaving red light. Anything i really need to look at. Sorry so long. Thanks ahead of time. AL
@@melrobinson6919 Still haven't heard anything but went to go camping again a few weeks ago and started it up. It would sit and lope for a bit then start a good idle. If I shut it off and crank again would do same thing . Didn't want to take a trip doing that. Code I had was a P1690 Waste gate solenoid circuit so got a new solenoid and code went away. Now it just lopes for a bit before it idles right. Not sure what else it could be. Not showing any codes so not sure where to go from here. Was think the fuel petal idle switch. Was going to change petal out but don't want to be a parts changer. Thanks for asking. AL
If anyone can help out I’d appreciate it. I have a 97 7.3 with 387k on it. Not sure if it’s the original engine, minimal blow my like normal, white steam but the no pressure, the cap doesn’t even move. I’ve never tested compression but honestly I doubt it’s bad. This engine runs fantastic! Extremely smooth, and very powerful. Blue smoke at cold idle and no smoke when warm, both cases have a heavy fuel smell that burns your eyes, enough that I ended up installing a cat onto my straight piped exhaust… Turbo rebuilt 160/0 injectors installed Hydra tuned for these injectors New injector o rings (motor craft) New glow plugs New GP controller New UVCH New valve cover gasket New HPOP Like I said with all these new parts she just purrs. But stinks Next I’m trying a new IPR.. I think In general my issue is over fueling or unburnt fuel. Either from a tired fuel pump, sticking IPR or new injectors are bad? It smoked before I replaced them too Any thoughts?
I replaced my ipr because my truck had a terrible shake/vibration at idle and poor performance when set on tunes, when I started it, it ran like total crap and scared me so I shut it off and haven’t touched it since, I’m confused on how a brand new $200 sensor would make it run worse
Replacement parts since 2020 have been piss poor at best but getting better Ford oem had a bad run also and current real not counterfeits have come back to original quality
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I purchased it through thoroughbred diesel, I’ve read where it may run rough for 10 minutes then settle out but I’m scared to try because of how rough it is running
I have a 02 f250 7.3 idles good slow speeds engine jerking and ruff, but when getting up above 60 mph, it's OK again I think it's the throttle pedal $800 since it has power adjustment
Clint how about when you first start in morning? Surges. ICP Plug dry. Live in warm climate. Had 179k. Would do it one day. Then not for a while. Thank you. 99 sir..
I have a slight surge at idle for about 3 seconds upon start up and then goes away. It happens on cold start and when the engine is warmed up. Also, when at idle the rpm will jump about 50 when the engine is warmed up. I have replaced ICP, IPR, CPS, EBP, Mass air flow sensor, main engine wire harness. Put brand new odyssey batteries, battery cables, alternator, starter, valve cover gaskets, under valve cover gasket harness, new glow plugs among a few other things. What would you recommend I take a look at next?
My AIT sensor will do that to my idle I couldn’t figure it out. Looking at a scan tool I noticed it was reading all over the place. I replaced it and it stopped but if I unplug it will come back. Not sure why that is but I can send you a video of it plugged in and unplug it and it will start doing the fluctuating idle.
loved the video . my 2002 f350 has an idle surge around 600rpm increase . then sputters like it is running out of diesel . if i rev it it will not stall but will happen again . if i do not rev it the truck will stall , and restart 99% of the time and run fine for 50 - 100 + miles .i have changed all above sensors 2 times incase i got a bad one , 3 cam sensors ( one international brand -purple color ) . it went thru over 6 garages & two dealers . been acting up for 5+ years . any other suggestions ? thanks Al
Hey Clint love your videos. I have a 99 7.3 have P1211, P1209, P0470, P0472, P1281. I have changed the ipr, icp, EBP with a new tube. Truck is still idling rough. Help.
My 99.5 does the 50-70 thing at idle but whats weird is it does an injector surge at precisely 1600rpm. Runs quite and fine under that rpm and runs loud and fine over that rpm. If I'm running around 1600rpm in high gear it bucks like a manual trans when you are driving to slow in too high a gear. This is with almost no throttle input at all. If it bucks, and I press the throttle down , it goes away.
Nothing to do with this video but ever sense I had to put both new computers in my 02 the high idle doesn't work would it be my injectors have almost 200,000 on them ?
Hey Clint I have an 02 f250 7.3 powerstroke it's knocking like crazy. But when I get the rpms up it goes away. I think it's a injector or glow plug. What do you think?
Mornin,ive followed your instructions about several things on my 7.3, i replaced the wiring harness,the IPR OEM and the ICP OEM and the exhaust sensor and the hpop,PCM and the valve cover gaskets,the fuel bowl OEM and a fuel tank mod,so my problem is after doing all this it ran great then about 2 wks ago the truck just lost power,and when i start go to start it it turns over then starts and misses for a couple of minutes. NEED HELP> Thanks
E99 233k I've been having an issue where my truck almost dies or does die when I'm at a light or start going. It doesnt always do this. It can drive just fine most of the time. Seems like it happens in the rain. Fusebox seems dry no water on carpet or behind fusebox. I have changed my cps sensor. I've now been lost in the forums from wiper geound to pop to icp. It started wanting to clunk out while getting on the onramp to the free way. First time its really done that. Any have suggestions or should i just tske it to a mechanic?
Driving along, check engine light appears, rpm gives a slight drop and stays there. Put it in neutral, cycle the key off then restart, engine light doesn't reappear, RPM normal. Ran a scan while driving, code said "System Pass" Nothing else. Not sure what that means. Have you heard of that?
i really need help , i have 2000 7.3 with idle surge issues along with a weird shake when reving coming back down to idle, as well as it stalling out if i hold it to 3k rpm and letting go this was all tested in park at warm temps, please help
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I've got a 97 7.3. Bought with a loping down idle. Guy had replaced hpop, manual swapped crate zf5 from jasper, bigger injectors that he couldn't even tell me the size of, and everything else stock. I didn't know much at the time so just replaced the cps. My icp was leaking and no difference when unplugged so I changed it and pigtail and now it does changed the idle but still lopes and had a more clattering sound when unplugged. The truck felt quite strong. I've got an ipr code " excessive injector control pressure" since it was bought. My ebp is unplugged because it was probably clogged causing the turbo hiss and low power in 60 degrees but no CEL. It's always had a loping idle and the stall if you come to a redlight without touching the fuel before pushing the clutch but felt quite strong anywhere past 1500 rpms. I've pulled 20k lbs no problem. Anyway, the other night it started missing bad fairly bad. Lower power, the idle still idles the exact same, my duty cycle bounces around at idle and icp psi with it of course. My fuel filter was dark but who knows when it's been last changed. Truck had never lost much oil and it's had to been leaky given its oily underside. I drive this truck 100 miles a day 6 days a week and it's all I have. I've ordered an ipr but I don't know what would be causing the miss. The only step I haven't went through is a cyl contribution test given I can't get the oil to stay above 180 long enough for the scan tool. What's your thoughts on the miss by any chance? Also thanks for the reply, much respect to any channel that cares about viewers
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD forgot to mention replaced a valve cover gasket 3 weeks ago I had glow plug pins burnt along with injectors passing a buzz test so I wouldn't expect an idm problem or voltage issue or anything orlf that sort.
I had a 3-4 second long crank when starting on 104k mile 01 7.3 I bought. It drove me nuts for months. I replaced all sensors with oem, glow plugs, engine harness, fuel filters, injector o rings, under valve cover harness, hutch mod install and ipr. Still long crank! Checked fuel pressure….94 psi. Previous owner installed blue spring. I installed new oem spring with fuel bowl rebuild. Starts instantly now! I also had occasional rough idle, that stopped too.
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thankyou for the fast reply and good info! Love your videos too by the way. I will definitely be looking for a 6 spd when I get a 7.3 for my business in the future!
Clint, My '01 7.3 auto with Commiefornia emissions (GPCM in lieu of the 49 state relay) is throwing a P0683 code (GPCM TO ECM COMMUNICATION CIRCUIT) that appeared after I swapped out the GPCM with a Motorcraft one. I had been getting 3 individual GP errors and no P0683 with the old original GPCM. Would you suggest getting a new engine harness to try or do you have any other words of wisdom? The connection points inside the GPCM connectors on the harness look a little mangled and the lock tabs have broken off so I zip tied the connectors to the GPCM to ensure the connections. Thx...
I meant to add that the truck runs perfectly and has no problem starting even on cooler mornings (for Cali). I have to get the code to stay off due to Cali smog requirements. Thx again.
My 95 f250 has a bad fluctuating tach even drops off causes a intermittent stall and the wait to start lights up but keeps goin so far got new batteries few days ago and a new cam sensor still has the issue the tach jumping way more then this video is throwing me off things original never had a issue till a day ago HELP
I have a newer icp and ipr and cam sensor (only about 4 months old on each) and all are oem. With the cold weather coming up I put new glow plugs in and I put some injector harness pig tails on 3 of the 4 injector harness plugs. Could I have done it wrong and caused a surge in the idle with that? It never surged until I did that and it mainly does it when the engine is cooler. When the engine is at operating temp it still does it but it's not as noticeable
Hey so my 1997 f350 powerstroke with the 7.3 is really acting up and I have no idea why. Basically gears 1-3 are just not shifting right. I'll be at 4000 rpms going 45 easy and 2500rpms going 25 easy. Sometimes I'll turn it on and it shifts no problem other times I can't get it out of first other times it would shift past 3rd. I've had the od light flash when it's doing this but it's also done this with no od light flashing (quite often) and there are no codes to help put. I've changed the cpm, I've ran seafoam through the gas and engine oil to clean everything, I replaced the solenoid pack, I've replaced the actually od stick and that's where I'm at. Any ideas of what could be going on? Help would be amazing I'm about ready to light the truck on fire.
Hi Clint, thank you so much for your video's, I changed all sensors and put in new harness and IDM still had rough idle ,watched your vid and fitted the 86Industries (Fischer Bro's) spring = Problem solved, it was a costly $$$$ diagnosis here in Australia as most of our parts people supply after market junk from another place I won't mention I rely on your video's and RiffRaff (Clay) shipping is a killer but worth it for Ford OEM parts. Kind regards from the Pilbara Western Australia. My truck is Aus spec 2005 S/Duty 7.3 made in Brazil and has done a lot of outback work. Stay safe.
Interesting that you have a 2005 with a 7.3. As you're likely aware, in the states, the 7.3s ended in 2003 when the 6 Blows came out. Had no idea the 7.3s lived on. Happy trucking...
@@melrobinson6919 Yes Ford produced them with Australian spec they stopped after the 7.3 if you wanted a Fseries after 2005 you had to import one and convert it to RH drive.
@@banjomaisey9050Thanks, I learned something new today....hah. I imagine you may be thankful you didn't get the 6 Ohhhh. The owners of those I've spoken to...most have been very unhappy and out thou$ands keeping them running.
@@melrobinson6919 No problem my friend, I know of a few 6Ohhhh disasters that were purchased in USA and imported then converted to RH drive Aus spec and they had nothing but trouble, Ford lost the plot with that power plant? To import a F250 S/Duty and convert was working out AU$150K I brought mine new off the shelf from a Ford dealer local and fitted it out for Outback work, ARB Bullbar Warn winch 270litre long range fuel tank and got rid of the vacuum hubs and fitted warn freewheel hubs.
Thanks for the replies it is great to talk to you guys in the states , you are lucky as access to parts would be great I use Riffraff for a lot of mine Clay is amazing but the freight can be a killer. Stay safe , kindest regards from the Pilbara Western Australia.
@@banjomaisey9050Interesting additional info, so thanks again. I can't imagine the disappointment and frustration dropping $150 grand on a 6.0 only to experience that misery. Take care, my friend. I enjoyed the conversation....
For those wondering, you CAN get a brand new main engine harness still. Riff Raff Diesel sells them. You just have to send them your VIN so they can make sure they send you the correct harness. So no you don’t have to rebuild your old harness anymore.
@@hawkeye1776, sweet. I have only changed out my ICP and CAM sensor. Haven’t had to change out the harness because mine is in good shape still. I just so happened to stumble upon riff raff selling harnesses by accident and i kept that in mind when the time comes ever since.
@@hawkeye1776, cool! I haven’t had the need to replace all the sensors yet since mine is still a baby at 158K. Really only replaced the CAM sensor as a precautionary measure. Had to replace the ICP because it was just starting to leak through to the connector but the connector was undamaged.
@@hawkeye1776, i’ve been a master diesel tech for years as well. I never said anything about building an engine that will blow up at 100K. I know how to build a diesel engine. My 7.3L fuel system has already been fully upgraded minus a sump and FASS or Airdog fuel pump (which will be next). I have a fuel return kit already installed so there will be no “deadhead” issues with the fuel.
And in reality the turbo for any year 7.3L is too small for the size of the engine. The Garrett GT38R or a turbo from KC turbos or Ryan’s diesel service are a drastic improvement over stock or even a factory housing with upgraded internals.
Early 1999 F250:
I have a totally different surging. Engine is cold and surging 1,000 rpm’s every minute. On Forscan you can visually see the IPR build until it crashes at or around 40%. It smooths back out for a few seconds and surges again. It does this until the oil temp gets to 160 degrees and then I’m good. I still have the bucking in 1st & 2nd gears though.
All New;
Main Harness, Valve Cover Harnesses, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure at 62 with no drops in pressure, Ford ICP, IPR, every sensor has been changed out with Ford brand, High Voltage IDM, Stage 1 High Pressure Oil Pump, Hybrid 180cc 80% nozzle injectors, Gas Peddle, Transmission, Slave Cylinder & so much more. I have spent over $4,000 chasing this problem not counting Transmission, it had 423,000 miles on it and was tired. Problem started after 37,000 miles on rebuilt motor. I have videos of the Forscan numbers during operation showing IPR numbers. Truck has 53,000 miles on rebuilt engine and 423,000 over all. I’ve learned to live with it instead of keep throwing money at it, but would be nice to get it figured out.
@@johnhof5657, does your ICP pressure hold strong? May have a failing stage 1 pump even though you’ve recently replaced it. Or it can be a situation where your low pressure pump is having a hard time delivering the oil needed for the high pressure pump to operate correctly.
I don’t know what us 7.3 freaks would do without ya Clint love ur channel it’s a life saver ♥️✌🏼
5:18 ICP Sound
6:25 IPR Sound
8:44 CPS Sound 1
9:04 CPS Sound 2
Thanks again. Now I'm pretty sure it's my IPR.
Was it?
After I swapped out the chinesium IPC, IPR and cam sensor, my truck started running great again. There are certain things in life that you can't save money on and that is those three items. Buy verified OEM only. Had to replace several connectors, but the wiring in the truck isn't too bad for a 99.5 model. I installed new Alliant injectors as well, because it still had original Ford installed injectors with 317k miles and cylinder #1 was not getting enough fuel. That cylinder was a dead miss, wasn't contributing. #6 and #8 seemed to run hotter than the rest, so just did all injectors and glow plugs at that point and now the truck starts/runs like a brand new diesel, thanks in great part to your videos. Love it. Also installed a Powerstroke 6.4 liter starter and now it cranks so fast you think it's at idle speed before it even lights off.
Clint, you are a 7.3 wizard. Thanks for all the info and great advice. Take Care Be Safe
We need more people like him!! Really helpful
I have 7.3 lov it. Thanks for all great videos. Use to watch Bill on 7.3 but he passed away. I believe I can still bring up his videos too.
Thanks a ton! perfect timing for this video, my 97 is doing this right now
Bill, Ron, Dave and now this guy! Great stuff
Which channel is Dave? Ain’t heard of him
@@Cfass1 Dave’s auto center
I just subscribed, I have learned a lot from your videos and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge . Very thorough work
Always enjoy your content and delivery.
What an incredible video, thank you for including the audible differences between the issues!
Thanks again Clint! 97 auto here, got all my goodies from riff raff. Truck was doing strange things at 45 mph, check engine would come on and felt like someone else was pressing gas pedal. New oem icp installed and that issue has gone away. Still waiting on oil sample from black stone. And haven’t had the time for ccv catch can yet. Your insight on these trucks are amazing. The time and $ you have saved me are unimaginable. How is the obs project coming along? Still waiting on blacksone results
Great video thanks for the good info... 225K on my 7.3
Thanks for all the good videos
Clint thanks you have been my go-to everytime I had any trouble with my ob's 7.3. I have a question about what I need to do with all the extra plugs left over after my fuel bowl delete and efuel install etc. Please and thank you Sir.
Still watching!!
Thanks Clint, helped heaps. Fantastic content and very well explained. All the best from Down under.
Thanks for the info Clint again a great helpful video makes the 7.3 easy to understand and rock the road and is still cheaper then a new one at 80.000$ hahahahaa pavement princess
1997 2wd 7.3 10 sec after start up (perfect idle) idle jumps iratic like it's running on 3 cylinders, but improves just a little when idle for a lengthof time (new wire harness from Swag) new icp, ipr, cam sensors, new IDM, ICP still not fixed problem fault resets everytime key on and off but on while running
New ECM as well
Could be the injectors
Similar to mine and replacing all the same parts as you. Checked fuel pressure and it was at 94 psi. Previous owner installed the blue spring in regulator. I put stock spring back in, idles perfect. Similar but I had no fault codes.
😊
Clint, I wish you could do 6.0 tech talk for all us 6.0 lovers out here. We’ve lost Ron and now Bill 😢. Lots of 6 liters out there and we’re keeping them going. 💪🏼🇺🇸🦅
Thank you so much for taking the time to post all your videos. Can 1 bad injector cause the truck to run for a second then die? 02 powerstroke. Frustrated to the point of throwing parts at it. Parts thrown-new valve harness and under valve harness, new wire harness, new cps (ford), new ipr, new icm, new pcm. Everything ohms correctly at the icm plug. Even the #3 injector that is throwing po267 (low to high open) and p1273 (high to low open). New injector on the way, but would think the truck would still start and run with one bad injector. The wires look good where they cross over the valve cover. It starts right up, runs good for a second then very rough then dies. I can put my foot on the gas pedal when I start it and it will start, rev up, run rough then die. Tried unplugging the ICP same results. Fuel pump easily fills the bowl, but have not checked the pressure yet as the pump is newer. I really thought I was chasing a wiring-sensor-module problem. After reading back through this post I think it might be on the fuel side. Sorry this is so long. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Ive heard if the IDM detects a short like that it can shut down the entire bank of injectors to protect itself
"A short like that" meaning what? He didn't mention any particular short so can you be more specific & how it relates to his symptoms? I've literally been trying to fix my '02 Lariat 4x4 for YEARS and NO ONE seems to know they're ass from a hole in the ground!! After watching Clint's video, I'm thinking all the ground wires & connections are what I need to check! I've literally spent thousands upon thousands with multiple diesel mechanics that have NEVER resolved my problem and I've discovered that it's primarily CAC (Con Artist Communication) at their best! They BS their way through everything they aren't capable of fixing, take your money & then leave you & your family stranded in the middle of no where on I-95N on Thanksgiving Eve night! So when I read all these comments, every word carries a lot of weight for me so they need to make sense!
@@keithace1 I'm speculating, but I believe he was talking about the internal short in the injector that I had listed as bad, and was throwing the codes.
Clint surging idle on 01 7.3 follows intermittent windshield wipers, no surge on highest setting or off. Surge seems a bid more dramatic with lights on.
Thanks for the vid . I have a project 99 7.3 with some stif steering wheen at a stand still , i still have some further diagnosing but im suspecting the steering pump but i might also look into the hydroboost. This video was very helpful .
Life saver. God bless you
you have saved me so much money! thank you sir!
I have a 97 7.3 with 228k ml, my issue with a surging idle happens whether it's cold or hot and is a more aggressive romp from like 700 to 1200 rpm and will not stop til I push a little on accelerator. Now if I change the tune 1 step up on the hydra from stock it won't do it, one person told me it was the trans selector on the side of the transmission. Thanks
Thank you for your work Iam new to the 7.3
I’ve got the symptoms in idle of icp. But it’s new and international brand. New ipr as well. Was getting a code first thing in the morning only pressure hi low . If I’d start the truck let it run a min. Turn off and restart the code be gone for the day.. ipr replacement fixed that. Still got a idle hunting about 100 rpm. Actually more like 50-75 rpm now that I did the oil crossover
Hey clint My 99 sd has the slight surge all the time cold or hot since the day I bought it can the icp still be the issue or is it only when hot like you mentioned in video? Or is it something else?
Mine too, let me know if you solve it thanks!
Awesome video- think I’m having ICP issues, would get really noisy clatter & then just instantly quit down
Right on
Very good info. Have some electric problems with a 7.3 early 99, April 15 1998 engine mfg date. Received a new engine wire harness which was incorrect for this engine, in process of correcting problem. Original symptoms were weak crank, check engine light stayed on about 2 minutes light goes off immediately rpm surge followed by irratic running of engine. As the engine warms it levels out andruns smoothly, however has a tendency to surge at low speeds. Also the alternator got quite hot quickly on starting ( had slight current feed back with key off in plug for wires) short in alt? brush dust at fields to armature? Will replace with new alternator. Checking harness for damage, hopefully can get the correct new one . Anyway, thanks for your invaluable information. Great video.
Your the best.im still waiting for the last video on the crank case vent mod .i got a dog house
Hi Clint, new sub here. I have an 01 excursion 7.3 289k. The engine will hiccup, like hitting a kill switch on a gas engine for a millisecond. Not just one cylinder, all cut out for a second. It’s usually around 2k rpm. I’ve replaced CPS and ICP sensors. Harness over left valve cover has been repaired after rubbing through on the valve cover. I’ve been driving it like this for years. Sometimes, no miss, other times, really bad. No check engine light. Cheap scanner shows no codes. Help!
Thanks from Florida 🇺🇸
Had that same problem the valve cover harness were disconnecting under the valve covers.
Wow that IPR sound is what i have when it warms up, i call it the old freight train sound but it only does it warm and im pretty sure i changed the IPR, they are not cheap. I wonder if cleaning it will help?
ua-cam.com/video/by1xh7v6tfk/v-deo.html
Clint, this is off the subject. I have a 2001 f250 7.3. I got new, and I only have 69000 miles on it. I keep up with all the maintenance on it. But was wondering if there is anything I need to do on it being its 23 years old. No tunes in it don't care for them. I need to change the icp out after watching your video. I went and checked it and had oil in it. I use it mostly to pull our camper around, and I keep it parked in my shop when not using it. Last camp trip we had a few bad rain and cold weather went to start it and started no problem then check engine light came on and I had no petal went light went out 3 to 5 seconds i had petal again. Did it all the way back home, pulling camper. Then it was like it would buck like in over drive when leaving red light. Anything i really need to look at. Sorry so long. Thanks ahead of time. AL
What was the solution? An '01 with that few miles.... a keeper if there ever as one..!
@@melrobinson6919 Still haven't heard anything but went to go camping again a few weeks ago and started it up. It would sit and lope for a bit then start a good idle. If I shut it off and crank again would do same thing . Didn't want to take a trip doing that. Code I had was a P1690 Waste gate solenoid circuit so got a new solenoid and code went away. Now it just lopes for a bit before it idles right. Not sure what else it could be. Not showing any codes so not sure where to go from here. Was think the fuel petal idle switch. Was going to change petal out but don't want to be a parts changer. Thanks for asking. AL
Could it be icp if 96 only bucks at 70 mph?
If anyone can help out I’d appreciate it. I have a 97 7.3 with 387k on it. Not sure if it’s the original engine, minimal blow my like normal, white steam but the no pressure, the cap doesn’t even move. I’ve never tested compression but honestly I doubt it’s bad. This engine runs fantastic! Extremely smooth, and very powerful. Blue smoke at cold idle and no smoke when warm, both cases have a heavy fuel smell that burns your eyes, enough that I ended up installing a cat onto my straight piped exhaust…
Turbo rebuilt
160/0 injectors installed
Hydra tuned for these injectors
New injector o rings (motor craft)
New glow plugs
New GP controller
New UVCH
New valve cover gasket
New HPOP
Like I said with all these new parts she just purrs. But stinks
Next I’m trying a new IPR.. I think In general my issue is over fueling or unburnt fuel. Either from a tired fuel pump, sticking IPR or new injectors are bad? It smoked before I replaced them too
Any thoughts?
Ever figure it out? I got same 97. 230k stinks when cold and idle hunts about 100rpm at warm idle.. ive replaced everything
Check compression.
I replaced my ipr because my truck had a terrible shake/vibration at idle and poor performance when set on tunes, when I started it, it ran like total crap and scared me so I shut it off and haven’t touched it since, I’m confused on how a brand new $200 sensor would make it run worse
Replacement parts since 2020 have been piss poor at best but getting better Ford oem had a bad run also and current real not counterfeits have come back to original quality
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I purchased it through thoroughbred diesel, I’ve read where it may run rough for 10 minutes then settle out but I’m scared to try because of how rough it is running
I have a 02 f250 7.3 idles good slow speeds engine jerking and ruff, but when getting up above 60 mph, it's OK again
I think it's the throttle pedal
$800 since it has power adjustment
Thanks
Clint how about when you first start in morning? Surges. ICP Plug dry. Live in warm climate. Had 179k. Would do it one day. Then not for a while. Thank you. 99 sir..
I have a slight surge at idle for about 3 seconds upon start up and then goes away. It happens on cold start and when the engine is warmed up. Also, when at idle the rpm will jump about 50 when the engine is warmed up. I have replaced ICP, IPR, CPS, EBP, Mass air flow sensor, main engine wire harness.
Put brand new odyssey batteries, battery cables, alternator, starter, valve cover gaskets, under valve cover gasket harness, new glow plugs among a few other things. What would you recommend I take a look at next?
2/98 7.3
New hpop an low mellen oil pump
Not getting any pressure at icp. Rail i filled resavoirto hpop draing has been resolved
Is my new hpop junk ?
My AIT sensor will do that to my idle I couldn’t figure it out. Looking at a scan tool I noticed it was reading all over the place. I replaced it and it stopped but if I unplug it will come back. Not sure why that is but I can send you a video of it plugged in and unplug it and it will start doing the fluctuating idle.
loved the video . my 2002 f350 has an idle surge around 600rpm increase . then sputters like it is running out of diesel . if i rev it it will not stall but will happen again . if i do not rev it the truck will stall , and restart 99% of the time and run fine for 50 - 100 + miles .i have changed all above sensors 2 times incase i got a bad one , 3 cam sensors ( one international brand -purple color ) . it went thru over 6 garages & two dealers . been acting up for 5+ years . any other suggestions ? thanks Al
Hey Clint love your videos. I have a 99 7.3 have P1211, P1209, P0470, P0472, P1281. I have changed the ipr, icp, EBP with a new tube. Truck is still idling rough. Help.
My 99.5 does the 50-70 thing at idle but whats weird is it does an injector surge at precisely 1600rpm. Runs quite and fine under that rpm and runs loud and fine over that rpm. If I'm running around 1600rpm in high gear it bucks like a manual trans when you are driving to slow in too high a gear. This is with almost no throttle input at all. If it bucks, and I press the throttle down , it goes away.
Hey CustomWorks, what would cause one to idle "different/not as smooth" after replacing the lift pump?
So my truck fluctuates from just below idle up to about 1000 rpm what could that be?
Nothing to do with this video but ever sense I had to put both new computers in my 02 the high idle doesn't work would it be my injectors have almost 200,000 on them ?
Mine does this real bad unplugged the icp and stopped right away new Icp so I have a wire problem ?
I have a 2000 model that surges and dies during the warmup cycle, does not do it when it gets to operating temperature.
Hi'
I have a 95 powerstoke 7.3 and the bluetooth scanner no conect to the ecu.?? What i need to do.
Thanks
Your the best
Hey Clint I have an 02 f250 7.3 powerstroke it's knocking like crazy. But when I get the rpms up it goes away. I think it's a injector or glow plug. What do you think?
Mornin,ive followed your instructions about several things on my 7.3, i replaced the wiring harness,the IPR OEM and the ICP OEM and the exhaust sensor and the hpop,PCM and the valve cover gaskets,the fuel bowl OEM and a fuel tank mod,so my problem is after doing all this it ran great then about 2 wks ago the truck just lost power,and when i start go to start it it turns over then starts and misses for a couple of minutes. NEED HELP> Thanks
E99 233k I've been having an issue where my truck almost dies or does die when I'm at a light or start going. It doesnt always do this. It can drive just fine most of the time. Seems like it happens in the rain. Fusebox seems dry no water on carpet or behind fusebox. I have changed my cps sensor. I've now been lost in the forums from wiper geound to pop to icp. It started wanting to clunk out while getting on the onramp to the free way. First time its really done that. Any have suggestions or should i just tske it to a mechanic?
Driving along, check engine light appears, rpm gives a slight drop and stays there. Put it in neutral, cycle the key off then restart, engine light doesn't reappear, RPM normal.
Ran a scan while driving, code said "System Pass" Nothing else. Not sure what that means. Have you heard of that?
security system fault or key fault
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Hmmm its a 1996 Do I have a security system? I don't have a key fob
Mine did @@genogeno6643
i really need help , i have 2000 7.3 with idle surge issues along with a weird shake when reving coming back down to idle, as well as it stalling out if i hold it to 3k rpm and letting go this was all tested in park at warm temps, please help
My biggest question is would an ipr cause a miss on acceleration?
Ahhnnn Ipr is more like a stall even if brief
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I've got a 97 7.3. Bought with a loping down idle. Guy had replaced hpop, manual swapped crate zf5 from jasper, bigger injectors that he couldn't even tell me the size of, and everything else stock. I didn't know much at the time so just replaced the cps. My icp was leaking and no difference when unplugged so I changed it and pigtail and now it does changed the idle but still lopes and had a more clattering sound when unplugged. The truck felt quite strong. I've got an ipr code " excessive injector control pressure" since it was bought. My ebp is unplugged because it was probably clogged causing the turbo hiss and low power in 60 degrees but no CEL. It's always had a loping idle and the stall if you come to a redlight without touching the fuel before pushing the clutch but felt quite strong anywhere past 1500 rpms. I've pulled 20k lbs no problem. Anyway, the other night it started missing bad fairly bad. Lower power, the idle still idles the exact same, my duty cycle bounces around at idle and icp psi with it of course. My fuel filter was dark but who knows when it's been last changed. Truck had never lost much oil and it's had to been leaky given its oily underside. I drive this truck 100 miles a day 6 days a week and it's all I have. I've ordered an ipr but I don't know what would be causing the miss. The only step I haven't went through is a cyl contribution test given I can't get the oil to stay above 180 long enough for the scan tool. What's your thoughts on the miss by any chance? Also thanks for the reply, much respect to any channel that cares about viewers
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD forgot to mention replaced a valve cover gasket 3 weeks ago I had glow plug pins burnt along with injectors passing a buzz test so I wouldn't expect an idm problem or voltage issue or anything orlf that sort.
Has anybody dealt with having too high of a fuel pressure causing the injectors to leak and causing rougher idle that way?
I had a 3-4 second long crank when starting on 104k mile 01 7.3 I bought. It drove me nuts for months. I replaced all sensors with oem, glow plugs, engine harness, fuel filters, injector o rings, under valve cover harness, hutch mod install and ipr. Still long crank! Checked fuel pressure….94 psi. Previous owner installed blue spring. I installed new oem spring with fuel bowl rebuild. Starts instantly now! I also had occasional rough idle, that stopped too.
Hey Clint, what do you prefer? A manual 7.3 or an automatic 7.3?
Manual all the way 6 spd zf650 easy to rebuild doesn't leave you sitting But the highest purpose is towing which is what all my trucks do in the fleet
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thankyou for the fast reply and good info! Love your videos too by the way. I will definitely be looking for a 6 spd when I get a 7.3 for my business in the future!
Do you have a video on the p1211 code, mines doing the same surging at idle and throwing the code every once in a while
Check his playlists.
What is the Ford Part # for IPR? 2002 Ford f250 7.3. VIN # 1FTNW21F12EA11971
www.riffraffdiesel.com/search.php?search_query=7.3%20ipr§ion=product ua-cam.com/video/by1xh7v6tfk/v-deo.html
Clint, My '01 7.3 auto with Commiefornia emissions (GPCM in lieu of the 49 state relay) is throwing a P0683 code (GPCM TO ECM COMMUNICATION CIRCUIT) that appeared after I swapped out the GPCM with a Motorcraft one. I had been getting 3 individual GP errors and no P0683 with the old original GPCM. Would you suggest getting a new engine harness to try or do you have any other words of wisdom? The connection points inside the GPCM connectors on the harness look a little mangled and the lock tabs have broken off so I zip tied the connectors to the GPCM to ensure the connections. Thx...
I meant to add that the truck runs perfectly and has no problem starting even on cooler mornings (for Cali). I have to get the code to stay off due to Cali smog requirements. Thx again.
💙💙💯
My 95 f250 has a bad fluctuating tach even drops off causes a intermittent stall and the wait to start lights up but keeps goin so far got new batteries few days ago and a new cam sensor still has the issue the tach jumping way more then this video is throwing me off things original never had a issue till a day ago HELP
I have a newer icp and ipr and cam sensor (only about 4 months old on each) and all are oem. With the cold weather coming up I put new glow plugs in and I put some injector harness pig tails on 3 of the 4 injector harness plugs. Could I have done it wrong and caused a surge in the idle with that? It never surged until I did that and it mainly does it when the engine is cooler. When the engine is at operating temp it still does it but it's not as noticeable
There is a connector, cable or plug that is jumping to ground or a bad sensor IT HAPPENS
Hey so my 1997 f350 powerstroke with the 7.3 is really acting up and I have no idea why. Basically gears 1-3 are just not shifting right. I'll be at 4000 rpms going 45 easy and 2500rpms going 25 easy. Sometimes I'll turn it on and it shifts no problem other times I can't get it out of first other times it would shift past 3rd. I've had the od light flash when it's doing this but it's also done this with no od light flashing (quite often) and there are no codes to help put. I've changed the cpm, I've ran seafoam through the gas and engine oil to clean everything, I replaced the solenoid pack, I've replaced the actually od stick and that's where I'm at. Any ideas of what could be going on? Help would be amazing I'm about ready to light the truck on fire.
Other times it won't shift past 3rd*
Other times it won't shift past 3rd*
🔧👍💯
I had my volume all the way up. I'll never hear my grandchildren...
I have a 7.3 diesel there's a man called Juniors water pressure my engine and it won't crank over don't overseas clubs CC valve
It was a bad injector causing the problem.
I meant IPR issues
Algorerythm
or replace the ebps pipe as its broke in 1/2. lol
MMTRGA !