This video is worth its weight in gold. My old Whisperflo locked up solid, and I took the advice of the pool guys and bought another one, some $250. Only a year later the thing started whining loudly. When I asked around about repairing it, I was told "we don't do bearings", and after calling around was told the only service shop that would repair old pumps in this city of 1 million people had closed up. I'll be dammed if I was going to pay another $250 for a pump that failed after only a year, so took it apart using your video. I used the rubber pipe strap wrench on the impeller as stated below. I had bought two bearings, but the back one (as in the video) was fine. The front one was working, but felt a little grindy to me, especially under side pressure. I think all of these pumps fail because of water incursion in the front. My seal looked ok, but rust along the shaft said a little water got past. I took the front bearing apart just to see. It still had a fair load of grease, just obvious that the balls were getting corrupted, by rust or wear. You can tell by comparing to a new bearing or to the back bearing. Unfortunately the trend is going to wholesale replacement of items like these. The old guys who knew how to do this are retiring. I haven't done this much mecanics since 30 years ago, but that's a way not to just chuck it and eat the cost. Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My motor was tripping the breaker every time I switched it on (no hum) and figuring it was shorted, I almost bought a new one. Then I checked the price. Then I saw your video. Long story short. I pulled out a fried lizard that got stuck between the stator and rotor. Ordered a new seal/o-ring kit and it works awesome. High five brofessor.
Video is much appreciated. Installed myself and saved 200$$ on labor from my pool guys.... figured it wasnt too labor intensive.... much thanks pool techs
This is a great video!! It helped me with my stuck humming motor. In my case I took it partially apart and cleaned out some debris from the impeller which fixed it temporarily. But then about 3 weeks later the pump was getting stuck and just humming again. I took it apart -- had to use an impact wrench (450 foot-pounds) to get the Seal Plate bolts off since there was so much calcium build up. And the Seal Plate was a mess, tons of build up. I could see why the motor wasn't turning; it was because the bottom bolts had so much calcium (from water leaking onto them for over 10 years), they pushed the bottom of the plate forward. However the top bolts were fine (no build up) therefore the top of the plate was not pushed forward. This caused the plate to basically lean diagonal, instead of up-and-down, thus it was pinching the shaft so it couldn't spin. I ordered a new Seal Plate and that fixed it! I actually ordered the wrong one, and it almost fit but the bolts didn't line up and I didn't want to force it. I was so frustrated, so I ordered another which fit perfectly. If anyone needs a new seal plate for their Pentair WFE-4 WhisperFlo you can get it on amazon named "Pentair 350202 Almond Seal Plate with Gasket Replacement Kit Inground Pool and Spa Pump". On a side note, for troubleshooting, you can confirm its an issue with the plate, if the impeller doesn't turn (or is very hard to turn), but once you take the impeller off, then the shaft spins rather easily. You can also see the impeller doesn't look like it aligns perfectly vertical and parallel with the pump; you can see it closer to the pump on bottom, and father away on the top. Anyway, hopefully this is useful for someone. I also found my waterslide pump stopped working too, so I took it apart as well, and it had the exact same problem with build up on some of the bolts, so now I am ordering another plate!
great video, can you please tell me what kind of bearing you used to change it, it's a 203 but whats the full part number from the box or the manufacture. Thank you !
the new motor I purchased from a pool company (they ordered it from a parts distributor) claims OEM replacement. New motor does not have a threaded shaft. Now what...... The old motor and shaft has serious corrosion.Through bolts are severely corroded. Does the threaded end of the shaft unscrew from the shaft?
Hi Thank you for very specific procedures to follow. What is the difference between 203 ff ball bearing & 203 ss ball bearing? Can I replace with any one of these? Thank you
Another tool that works nice on the black impeller (instead of large channel-locks) is a Multi-use Rubber Strap Wrench. I have one to use on oil filters.
I want to thank you for these videos. Helped me greatly. I, too, broke one of the through bolts, but I believe the other three will hold it in place. If I get one more lifecycle use out of this pump, it was definitely worth the effort. Again, thanks so much!
lots of easy ways to get rid of a broken bolt. If there is any stub you can grab it will channel locks or similar. If you can't even get a stub, you can drill a small hole in the middle (use oil to cut it). Then a left handed stuck bolt remover from home depot gets it out. Apply a lot of penetrant oil to the bolt for 24 hours before you try it. They actually make "penetrant oil", but I have had luck with wd-40 as well. Its a mix of solvent and oil, and carries farther into the threads than oil alone.
i have this bearings spin fine but when it runs high pitch noise then low high low when it runs what the heck is it water pumps threw but i was told motor was trying to cycle but it cant motor is going out is that true
I've tried to take the back of the motor off on 2 different motors with the same result on both - one or more of the thru bolts break off on the threaded end. Any way to lube those or any advice on how to avoid it. It seems that no matter how careful I am the torque on those long bolts is just too much for the thin size when there is any kind of corrosion.
+Patrick Alley If the motor has seen water those thru bolts can get stuck big time. You can try spraying some spray lube on the bottom ones through the vent slots. You can also try soaking the threads as they are behind the 3/8 bolt holes on a c frame motor. A light duty impact wrench can also help remove the stuck ones. Normally we try seeing if the bolts will come loose before we decide to repair the motor instaed of replacing.
Hi Jay. Our pool was put in 8 years ago. It holds 14500 gallons of water. It has a 1.5hp whisper Flo with a cartridge filter system. I turned it off today to service the cartridge and add chlorine tabs. When I turned it back on it just hummed. I replaced the capcitor but no help. Shaft is hard to spin from the back of the motor. So I figure it's probably a bearing. My question is: should I replace the bearings or is it more advisable to just replace the whole pump.
Thank you for your video! About 6 months ago I followed your video and replaced the seals in my pump as well as the motor bearings. The motor was screaming from the front bearing that had been exposed to leaking water for a year or so. Got it back together and it worked great, until now. The motor won't run and it pops my breaker every time the motor tries to turn on. The motor made a pop sound and a little puff of smoke looked like it came out, any idea what would cause that? I haven't touched it for 6+ months and it was working fine, I took off the rear cap and the motor spins freely with no resistance.
Not much to go wrong inside the motor besides bearings. My amateur guess would be shorted winding. Its been three years since you posted this, what did you end up doing?
Hi, thanks for the detail video. I have a question that you plugged cords to load circuits to test the motor. Did you build that cord or you bought special cord that was already built? If you made it yourself, can you tell me how you built it? ty
Flip the switch on the motor (newer ones) or change the wires for 110v operation. Take an old lamp cord, cut it, strip the ends of the wire and either get electrical lugs to match the ones on the motor wire entry or get alligator clips with plastic covers (local or online electronics supply will have them). Clip that to the motor terminals and plug in. In electronics we call this a "suicide cord", you can guess why.
6:45 What you look for here is that when you use the power tool, you snap the bolts and then throw away the entire motor. Then you can just buy a new motor and all your problems are solved! Remember folks, these guys rehearse these videos, so you don't get to see how they struggled through the first tear-down. Don't use power tools on these long bolts that go all the way through the motor. Use hand tool and VERY carefully feel the back pressure from the bolt. That way, the next time you do a tear-down, you know exactly how much force you can exert before it snaps. Better method is to get some spray in there to loosen the threads before you put too much pressure. New pump should not have a problem, but who replaces parts on new pumps? Oops - Sammy Joe already mentioned this. OK, well, I second the idea then ; )
Hello Jay, I have a pump like this one, a Superflo, and I bought as they said it was the most quite ones in the market, any way, after 18 months it lost warranty, and Pentair Tech service were not very nice on the phone giving any help. My pump is humming like crazy,and I will go to disassemble it, very possible bearing problem, my question is could you refer me where to buy the Bearings, sealers, and washers? I just want to change it all, and not found my self waiting days to find the parts.
I get them from my pool distributors. There are only 3 different size bearings a 203, 204 and 304. Let me know if you cannot find as we sell some stuff on ebay and I can list what you need.
first we check the capacitor on these switchless motors .the DIFFUSER o-ring was damaged by chlorine, and shaft seal this is what caused this motor to fail in the first place! this is the pump you sell to somebody you don't like wisperjunk.
Great video. My impeller was really stuck. The pool store suggested breaking it off to get to the brass. I made one last try and flipped it impeller down on the vise and clamping just the outside of the impeller. Got a good grip and broke it loose.
Thanks for the video -when you mentioned wa wa in part 2 that was the key word, was not the bearing which i thought but rear housing spacers ,now nice and quiet saved me $ Thanks again
10 year old video shot on a potato and its still the BEST PUMP video on YT! THX!
This video is worth its weight in gold. My old Whisperflo locked up solid, and I took the advice of the pool guys and bought another one, some $250. Only a year later the thing started whining loudly. When I asked around about repairing it, I was told "we don't do bearings", and after calling around was told the only service shop that would repair old pumps in this city of 1 million people had closed up. I'll be dammed if I was going to pay another $250 for a pump that failed after only a year, so took it apart using your video.
I used the rubber pipe strap wrench on the impeller as stated below. I had bought two bearings, but the back one (as in the video) was fine. The front one was working, but felt a little grindy to me, especially under side pressure. I think all of these pumps fail because of water incursion in the front. My seal looked ok, but rust along the shaft said a little water got past. I took the front bearing apart just to see. It still had a fair load of grease, just obvious that the balls were getting corrupted, by rust or wear. You can tell by comparing to a new bearing or to the back bearing.
Unfortunately the trend is going to wholesale replacement of items like these. The old guys who knew how to do this are retiring. I haven't done this much mecanics since 30 years ago, but that's a way not to just chuck it and eat the cost.
Thanks again.
I just replaced my bearing with no hitch! thanks to your video, it's very detailed. Now no more howling noise. and save me a ton $$. Thank you again!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My motor was tripping the breaker every time I switched it on (no hum) and figuring it was shorted, I almost bought a new one. Then I checked the price. Then I saw your video. Long story short. I pulled out a fried lizard that got stuck between the stator and rotor. Ordered a new seal/o-ring kit and it works awesome. High five brofessor.
Video is much appreciated. Installed myself and saved 200$$ on labor from my pool guys.... figured it wasnt too labor intensive.... much thanks pool techs
This is a great video!! It helped me with my stuck humming motor. In my case I took it partially apart and cleaned out some debris from the impeller which fixed it temporarily. But then about 3 weeks later the pump was getting stuck and just humming again. I took it apart -- had to use an impact wrench (450 foot-pounds) to get the Seal Plate bolts off since there was so much calcium build up. And the Seal Plate was a mess, tons of build up. I could see why the motor wasn't turning; it was because the bottom bolts had so much calcium (from water leaking onto them for over 10 years), they pushed the bottom of the plate forward. However the top bolts were fine (no build up) therefore the top of the plate was not pushed forward. This caused the plate to basically lean diagonal, instead of up-and-down, thus it was pinching the shaft so it couldn't spin. I ordered a new Seal Plate and that fixed it! I actually ordered the wrong one, and it almost fit but the bolts didn't line up and I didn't want to force it. I was so frustrated, so I ordered another which fit perfectly. If anyone needs a new seal plate for their Pentair WFE-4 WhisperFlo you can get it on amazon named "Pentair 350202 Almond Seal Plate with Gasket Replacement Kit Inground Pool and Spa Pump". On a side note, for troubleshooting, you can confirm its an issue with the plate, if the impeller doesn't turn (or is very hard to turn), but once you take the impeller off, then the shaft spins rather easily. You can also see the impeller doesn't look like it aligns perfectly vertical and parallel with the pump; you can see it closer to the pump on bottom, and father away on the top. Anyway, hopefully this is useful for someone. I also found my waterslide pump stopped working too, so I took it apart as well, and it had the exact same problem with build up on some of the bolts, so now I am ordering another plate!
Great video. I work repairing pools and you did great!
great video, can you please tell me what kind of bearing you used to change it, it's a 203 but whats the full part number from the box or the manufacture. Thank you !
the new motor I purchased from a pool company (they ordered it from a parts distributor) claims OEM replacement. New motor does not have a threaded shaft. Now what...... The old motor and shaft has serious corrosion.Through bolts are severely corroded. Does the threaded end of the shaft unscrew from the shaft?
Hi Thank you for very specific procedures to follow. What is the difference between 203 ff ball bearing & 203 ss ball bearing? Can I replace with any one of these?
Thank you
Another tool that works nice on the black impeller (instead of large channel-locks) is a Multi-use Rubber Strap Wrench. I have one to use on oil filters.
I want to thank you for these videos. Helped me greatly. I, too, broke one of the through bolts, but I believe the other three will hold it in place. If I get one more lifecycle use out of this pump, it was definitely worth the effort. Again, thanks so much!
lots of easy ways to get rid of a broken bolt. If there is any stub you can grab it will channel locks or similar. If you can't even get a stub, you can drill a small hole in the middle (use oil to cut it). Then a left handed stuck bolt remover from home depot gets it out. Apply a lot of penetrant oil to the bolt for 24 hours before you try it. They actually make "penetrant oil", but I have had luck with wd-40 as well. Its a mix of solvent and oil, and carries farther into the threads than oil alone.
why do you need to take the rear end bell off ?
great job !!!!you know pool pumps !@ are a great teacher
i have this bearings spin fine but when it runs high pitch noise then low high low when it runs what the heck is it water pumps threw but i was told motor was trying to cycle but it cant motor is going out is that true
....WHAT IS THE PART NAME OF THE V-SHAPED SWITCH THAT PROVIDES POWER TO THE CAPACITOR?
where can I find the 10" thru bolts for the wisperflo motor
Thanks Jay,
I certainly understand why that would decide whether to try to save the motor. If they break the motor is junk.
Thanks jay I had the same problem but i fixed it on my own cause your videos helped me
I've tried to take the back of the motor off on 2 different motors with the same result on both - one or more of the thru bolts break off on the threaded end. Any way to lube those or any advice on how to avoid it. It seems that no matter how careful I am the torque on those long bolts is just too much for the thin size when there is any kind of corrosion.
+Patrick Alley If the motor has seen water those thru bolts can get stuck big time. You can try spraying some spray lube on the bottom ones through the vent slots. You can also try soaking the threads as they are behind the 3/8 bolt holes on a c frame motor. A light duty impact wrench can also help remove the stuck ones. Normally we try seeing if the bolts will come loose before we decide to repair the motor instaed of replacing.
Whisperflo pump 2.0 hp is making whistling sound once starting after 20 minutes goes away. Any thoughts? thx
spot on information. I know I saved a few hundred bucks easy!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video , very informative
Thank you for a very helpful video.
Thanks for the video! I have a waterleak between the moter and the housing. I know how to fix it now! greetings from Belgium!
Thanks for your video. Made my day. God Bless you.
Would it be same procedure for pentair superflow vs ?
Hi Jay. Our pool was put in 8 years ago. It holds 14500 gallons of water. It has a 1.5hp whisper Flo with a cartridge filter system. I turned it off today to service the cartridge and add chlorine tabs. When I turned it back on it just hummed. I replaced the capcitor but no help. Shaft is hard to spin from the back of the motor. So I figure it's probably a bearing. My question is: should I replace the bearings or is it more advisable to just replace the whole pump.
Thank you for your video! About 6 months ago I followed your video and replaced the seals in my pump as well as the motor bearings. The motor was screaming from the front bearing that had been exposed to leaking water for a year or so. Got it back together and it worked great, until now. The motor won't run and it pops my breaker every time the motor tries to turn on. The motor made a pop sound and a little puff of smoke looked like it came out, any idea what would cause that? I haven't touched it for 6+ months and it was working fine, I took off the rear cap and the motor spins freely with no resistance.
Not much to go wrong inside the motor besides bearings. My amateur guess would be shorted winding. Its been three years since you posted this, what did you end up doing?
What does it mean when you turn the power on and all it does is flash green lights on a Pentair
Hi, thanks for the detail video. I have a question that you plugged cords to load circuits to test the motor. Did you build that cord or you bought special cord that was already built? If you made it yourself, can you tell me how you built it? ty
Flip the switch on the motor (newer ones) or change the wires for 110v operation. Take an old lamp cord, cut it, strip the ends of the wire and either get electrical lugs to match the ones on the motor wire entry or get alligator clips with plastic covers (local or online electronics supply will have them). Clip that to the motor terminals and plug in. In electronics we call this a "suicide cord", you can guess why.
6:45 What you look for here is that when you use the power tool, you snap the bolts and then throw away the entire motor. Then you can just buy a new motor and all your problems are solved! Remember folks, these guys rehearse these videos, so you don't get to see how they struggled through the first tear-down. Don't use power tools on these long bolts that go all the way through the motor. Use hand tool and VERY carefully feel the back pressure from the bolt. That way, the next time you do a tear-down, you know exactly how much force you can exert before it snaps. Better method is to get some spray in there to loosen the threads before you put too much pressure. New pump should not have a problem, but who replaces parts on new pumps?
Oops - Sammy Joe already mentioned this. OK, well, I second the idea then ; )
Hello Jay, I have a pump like this one, a Superflo, and I bought as they said it was the most quite ones in the market, any way, after 18 months it lost warranty, and Pentair Tech service were not very nice on the phone giving any help. My pump is humming like crazy,and I will go to disassemble it, very possible bearing problem, my question is could you refer me where to buy the Bearings, sealers, and washers? I just want to change it all, and not found my self waiting days to find the parts.
Thanks Jay, I have the exact same problem.. my only question is where do you get the parts (the right bearings and gaskets)?
I get them from my pool distributors. There are only 3 different size bearings a 203, 204 and 304. Let me know if you cannot find as we sell some stuff on ebay and I can list what you need.
@@dapooltec Grainger
Thank you for making this video
Where to get parts?
I got everything from Amazon.
Thanks for the video it was awesome and easy to do
where is part 2???
first we check the capacitor on these switchless motors .the DIFFUSER o-ring was damaged by chlorine, and shaft seal this is what caused this motor to fail in the first place! this is the pump you sell to somebody you don't like wisperjunk.
Great video. My impeller was really stuck. The pool store suggested breaking it off to get to the brass. I made one last try and flipped it impeller down on the vise and clamping just the outside of the impeller. Got a good grip and broke it loose.
Thanks for the video -when you mentioned wa wa in part 2 that was the key word, was not the bearing which i thought but rear housing spacers ,now nice and quiet saved me $ Thanks again
"She's hummin"...nice...
Very good explained thank you so much.. 🙏
THE WORSE part of this pump is the seal plate!!!!!
Noisey pump