Seal replacement WhisperFlo® & IntelliFlo® pump with Pentair Genuine Quick-Kit
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Detailed instructions on how to replace a pool pump seal for a Pentair WhisperFlo® & IntelliFlo® swimming pool pump using a Pentair Genuine pump seal Quick-Kit. You'll learn how to disassemble the pump and the steps involved to replace the mechanical shaft seal and all the other seals in the pump. If you have water leaking between the pool pump housing and the motor assembly, this video will show you how to fix it.
Great, clear, instructive video. The presenter doesn't pretend to be a "TV host" with useless time wasting blather. The tutorial was perfectly suited for this repair job. I followed the steps and procedures exactly as the video demonstrates. The repairs worked perfectly. Thank you.
Not sure how many folks are looking at this video in mid 2021, but I wanted to share my experience.
1. GREAT instructional video for the inner workings and parts of this pump (good job Pentair!)
2. NOTE: this is being demonstrated on a NEW unit, so no calcium build-up, stuck bolts, degraded seals, etc.
3. NOTE: The work is being done on a bench...... much easier access.
My experience.. I not only have the main variable speed main pump, but also another pump for the in-floor cleaning system (Wonderful, by the way) However, this put the main pump between the 'in-floor' pump and the main filter tank. 6 inch or less clearance all the way around. Extremely tight, cramped quarters.. much bending, crouching, etc. Also the main 'housing' (with the basket) is glued in place to both the feeds from the skimmer/bottom drain as well as the line to the filter tank.. no moving this..
Where this was an 11 minute video, it took me 5+ hours.. I had ALL tools and part needed 'on-hand'. This is not for the faint of heart... with that being said, without this video, I would not have done the work myself, saving multiple hundreds of $$ I'm sure.
If I ever need to do this again, I will definitely just disconnect the wiring, and take as much as I can to my workbench...
I just did mine and I agree about the stuck bolts and missing seals but the video is on point about the process except for the backend of that new motor. I have an older pump which I have rehabed with new seals several times over 12 years and it has a fan on the back which makes using a wrench impossible. There is a screwdriver slot in the end of the shaft to hold it, but it is not friendly, and invariably the impeller is hardest part to remove (without breaking it... be prepared). Beyond that this job is a piece of cake and anyone who can follow these instructions (with the proper tools) can do it. Your pump is the tight space is a whold different deal... mine is pool use and sitting on a slab behind my garage...
@@chuckallen9906 Thanks for the words of advice/encouragement. My first attempt didn't work.. 2nd try, disconnected electrical and move the whole thing to the workbench.. same deal with the slot for taking off the impeller, but on the bench I at least could get some leverage! And.. so far, so good!!!
UPDATE: 1st attempt was not successful. Confirmed leak the day after posting this. Just repeated the process, except... I disconnected power and took the whole unit (flange/seal plate) and put it on the workbench. Able to spend the time with all the 'fussy bits' and make sure they were done correctly. So far so good. So if you are needing to fix a leaking pump, it definitely can be done.. just follow the sage advice of working smarter, not harder...
One other tip is to break loose the 4 bolts holding the motor to the seal plate BEFORE removing the entire assembly from the main pump. Those are the bolts that get stuck most often.
Why do you think pool guys charge so much now? We can have this done in about 5/10 minutes sometimes more. We work in cramped none desirable conditions, sweating our asses off to get the job done. Having done about 250/300 of these it’s never fun, and usually only Pentair pumps…
This is by far the best instructional video I’ve ever watched!
Best, precise instruction guide that I have ever seen on UA-cam. Great job.
I live in Florida fort myers and many of these pumps were completely submerged. I put new motors on them and the drives still worked. Amazing
I'm in Cape Coral and just bought a used IntelliFlo off Facebook marketplace for 300$. The bearings were shot in it. I opened up the drive unit just to check it out - there's never been a spec of dust or drop of water in it! They do an amazing job of sealing these puppies up! I tossed new bearings and a seal set into it and it's running perfect
Aye North fort myers
Just used this video tutorial. Cost me $30 total and it worked like a charm.
Awesome video. Thx for sharing
Actually I was just here to figure out which way to turn the impellor to remove it. Thanks.
Thanks for the video very informative 😊helped me very much I am in Houston Texas Heat 112 degrees and this video helped me finish the job pretty quick
Thanks for the video. It was helpful. Now to stick it on and see if it runs...after it stops raining.
The shaft seal needs silicone? If so which silicone can we use? I did everything as shown but still have a leak around the shaft seal.
I use GE100% waterproof silicone 2.8 Oz tube. Use the silicone and wait 24 hours before starting the pump.
😂 silly boy lol 😂
The kit comes with a packet of silicone to use on the rebuild. I also have a video on my channel on replacing the motor on a whisperflo, & I rebuild the pump as well as replacing the shaft seal. Here's the link, Thanks 👍
ua-cam.com/video/yOkypa74qfw/v-deo.html
Great step by step instructions. I was able to did the seal plate rebuild with no issues. Thank You!
EXCELLENT instructions!!!! Thank you!!
Very professionally done.
has anyone ever had an issue with the rotating shaft assembly being stiff after installing new seals and impeller? I have done this exact replacement on my Whisperflo and once together, before even installing the defuser, the shaft doesn't spin freely. Its like the new seals are so tight that it doesn't rotate as freely.
I am having the same issue and trying to find the solution, have you?
Thanks.
I replaced all these seals seamed perfect but I put it back together and leaking even worse I did notice the propeller seal didn't seat flushed but no room to push it further
Yes! This was perfect! Fantastic step by step
Thank you... Thank you... THANK YOU !!
In the wiring it say L1 an L2
L2 has a post fir a wire but L1 doesn't , but it has a screw.
On the old one both had a post to hook up
Will this work if I put the wire on the screw
Very thorough. Well done.
You mentioned adding silicone adhesive when placing the new seal in the seal plate. Is it adhesive or lubricant? If adhesive what kind do you use? Thanks
Any kind of silicone.. I recomend GE silicone II or Permatex RTV clear
Thank you for putting together this video!
Do you have a part number for the quick kit?
excellent instructions....
What do you do if you follow all the steps and the pump still has a little leak? I've installed 2 seals and there is still a little leak.
Make sure they’re seated properly and make use a little gasket glue (silicone) to hold them in place.
need link to order kit, need a link to script. I typed on for myself to keep for future reference. But a good rule of thumb for any tutorial is to provide the script.
very easy to do all he is doing on a new pump and sitting on a Bench.
If you have a salt water pool, you need a seal that is specifically built for it.
outstanding video. kudos.
Whats size of the shaftseal? 5/8 or 3/4!
Great job man and thanks
So you put silicone adhesive on the seal before you installed it? I’ve seen so many conflicting things about using anything on the seal! We’re trying to replace ours, and really need to do it right! Can you offer some advice please? Thanks!
He puts silicone ADHESIVE only onto the shaft seal lip that is pressed into the seal plate.
@@JustinAlexanderBell Is there a particular type of silicone adhesive that should be used? Or your basic Loctite brand marine grade good?
@@TooMuch637 I used an aquarium grade silicone adhesive as it's in direct contact with the plastic housing. Loctite might be fine but I'm not sure.
@@TooMuch637 The kit comes with a packet of silicone, I have a video on my channel of replacing the motor on this whisperflo pump & replacing all the gaskets & shaft seal as well. 👍
Here's the link
ua-cam.com/video/yOkypa74qfw/v-deo.html
It comes with lube for the o-rings, not the silicone for the seal
This is the only video that shows adding silicone to the flange of the seal prior to installation and waiting 24 hours for it to dry. Most other videos just use seal lube. Not saying you're wrong, but I'm not sure who is right?
My 2-cents worth.. I used the seal lube, no wait.. reassembled. All good.
Just my opinion, but I think that if the silicon glue is absolutely necessary, it would have been included in the kit. After all, the o-ring lube is included in the kit. So why not the silicon too? I’m guessing it’s optional, but “best practice”.
@@totallyfrozen thats because this is expected to be installed by a professional, and they only add the lubricant as courtesy. Yes silicone is a must, its what is used from factory.
could of saved myself time and money if I would of seen this first before I broke stuff
where to buy the kit
No screw in the center of mine.
What do I do if I accidentally touch the seal with my finger... or it gets dirty? What can I clean it with?
Is it possible that this repair could eliminate the air in the basket and coming out of my return jets? Also, can this repair be done without removing the pump from it's location? The pump was installed without the ability to remove it from the system.
The o ring for the removeable suction strainer lid could be the problem. Replace this with a new one that you have applied silicone LUBE on, do not use silicone adhesive. They are two different silicone types.
If after doing this you still have air leak, try replacing the o ring on the strainer basket drain plug if equpped, if it still has air bubbles, it probably is a poorly glued suction line fitting. Try pressing your finger around the joints, you may hear a difference in the air leak if you seal it with your finger. This can be fixed easily, just do a youtube search.
Repairing pump would have no effect on air in basket. Air in basket is coming from cracked basket housing, or o ring for lid, or any suction line back to pool skimmer and main drains.
Might want to get someone to install unions on the supply and return pipes, when the time comes..
It could help. I also noticed my suction-side pool vacuum was sucking air through the hoses. So check your pool vacuum hoses and replace as necessary.
9:15 Torque required for these fasteners?
This is not how you replace a seal on an IntelliFlo, you can’t put a wrench on the motor shaft.
got a link for kit??
O-Ring Rebuild Repair Kit for Pentair WhisperFlo/IntelliFlo, Black Gasket, fits years 2/08 and later, Go kit 32. www.amazon.com/dp/B083ZM7W6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BGK844N9643G3HQEQSFB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
After you take a few old ones apart, you realize you need to PUT ANTI-SEIZE on every fastener! Especially including the long through bolts that hold the end caps on the motor. When I install a new motor/pump assembly, I take it apart and put anti-seize on all the fasteners before placing it in service. If you have ever had to drill out or hacksaw off stuck fasteners, you know what I mean. Even the little screws that hold on the capacitor cover, ALL of them. One stuck fastener can ruin your whole day...
Use 1 1/4” pvc, not 1” (or 1 1/2” as one poster stated)
That's not a 1 inch PVC coupling in the video at 6:16. It's larger than 1 inch. The reason its not a 1 inch is because a 1 inch won't work.
1-1/2” ID
1 1/4” pvc works
It is a 1 inch coupling.
2
Totally done wrong ,the seals are being installed wrong and the pump will leak.
Yeah !!! Lube up the bolts !! So they can vibrate off!!!!!!! Ha!!