Useful Hack / Top Tip - Remove Old English 3 Speed Bicycle Bottom Bracket Easily! - Park Tool HCW11
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2020
- Park Tool HCW-11 : amzn.to/3jV9Mkr
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Don't struggle with those old English 3 Speed bottom brackets! Use the Park HCW-11 and bolt it to the cup! - Розваги
I really like this type of short video to supplement your build videos. Great advice on that.
That's good to hear! Perhaps I'll try and think of some more.
Thanks for this phenomenal trick 👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️🙏🙏🙏🙏 You made my day! Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Thanks for this easy tip. Just worked for me on my 1980s Raleigh Record which has a 5S inside!
Friggin' genius. You've helped us more than you know. Many thanks!
Glad to help
Great video. Inspired by your video I purchased 100mm m14 bolt, two M14 nuts, 2x 40mm penny washers and a couple of 28mm washers and used them to hold my Park HCW11 firmly in position to undo stubborn ancient Raleigh sprocket side bearing cup. Bolts etc cost me a about 2 pounds. A bit of careful hammering loosened the cup and I was able to remove it. Many thanks
Thanks for posting this as it was very useful.
You don't need a special spanner at all; just the big bolt, washers and nuts. Do it up tight and keep going. When the nut & bolt can't tighten any more the cup will start to turn instead. Use a big spanner on the outside nut if you want to take out a left hand thread cup as you tighten the n&b - use a socket with extension on the inside nut if you want to take out a right hand thread cup as you tighten up the n&b. If you use a long bolt and lots of nuts so that they poke out of the far side of the BB shell, then you don't even need a socket and extension; just a regular spanner(wrench).
Perfect timing working on a 1954 rudge have a sparkling day😎
Awesome! Hope it works out!
This is a great idea thanks for this tip.
Why couldn't you have done this video 6 months back when I was restoring an old Raleigh racer. Jeesh!
Hahaha sorry! Anyone got a time machine?
But you actually did do this in a video a good while back. I can’t remember exactly which bike you were restoring but it was the first time I commented on your videos to thank you for that exact tip,
what did you replace it with? I am doing this at the moment and it needs a specific Raleigh size bb
The dog's molluscs with that DIY tool. Excellent work as ever.
Thanks Zeke!
Fabulous advice. Thank you.
You are so welcome!
Great job and well done on showing how a tool or threaded bar can be used.
Thanks 👍
Excellent suggestion helped my a lot with an old claud butler.
Glad it helped
@1:10 I just had to remove a BB like this last night and I didn't have the right spanner, it was really tight but I found a pipe-wrench did the job! I was sort of surprised but I think it came down to the fact that it sort of self tightens as you put more pressure on it.
thank you for the show;
am going for the regular ball bearing, after considering other brackets, as the all aluminium 'thunder mtb' cannot take chances, still have a long way to go,
I love this video I have a the same bike and I did not know how to do it .but now thanks to you I am go get to work on it
Glad I could help
Blooming brilliant. And very timely as I've got a Triumph Trafficmaster (aka Raleigh Twenty) to work on soon. Time to get some M16 rod, nuts and washers!
Honestly, bolting any BB tool down makes the job so much easier. I bolt the multisplined Shimano BB tools to the old UN55 etc BBs too.
Great tip.
I’ll go try that now.
Hope it works!
Awesome video on removing bottom brackets
Thanks 👍
Thank you…great tip …sound technique
You're welcome!
Genius! THANK YOU!!
You're welcome!
That a great tip 👍👍
Glad you think so!
great tip☆;
securely removing the right side of the bracket🤞,
Neat trick! Thanks for sharing....
No problem!
I've done it using a similar method which has the downside of knackering the cup. This looks like a much better method. Thanks!
You're welcome.
Great video 👌
Thanks 👍
Brilliant !
Thanks.
thanks for an important tip !
No problem!
Awesome hack. 👌
Thanks.
Great stuff m8
Thanks John
Thank you so much
Any time.
Good tip clamping the tool on. I did this recently and instead of hitting it with a hammer i used a piece of scaffold pole as a cheat bar. Worked a dream!
That works too! Unfortunately I don't think my Park stand would cope with the rotational torque and I'd just end up spinning the hole bike round in the stand!
MonkeyShred I popped the wheels back in it and stood it up.
Worked first time on an old doug hartley frame! Wasn't sure it would as the tool barely had an edge on it, but after a few heavy hammer blows it started to turn. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Hi mate,just did same method on my triumph traffic master on monday,worked first time and that was one of those that are painted👍
And they're even more of a pain! Why would Raleigh do that?!
Nice!
Thanks!
Yes that BB was 10 times easier to remove after watching your clip. I was soooo frustrated before so thanks. Put on a hollow press fit BB to replace the old cup type.
great!!!
Brilliant! One of these defeated me last week. I had the cup in the vice by the flats and tried to turn the frame, but it kept popping out. I've never seen one of those tools before either. Thanks for posting. 🙂
It's a bit useless by itself but works well when bolted down like this!
by the vice did I remove my fitting, a challenge to discover the direction,
It is definitely a good way to keep the wrench from slipping. All I did was take a bolt with the head on the inside of the tube, added some fender washers to the threads sticking out then put a nut on it then tightened it down. Doing this I just ratcheted the cap right out.
That's one way to do it too. I'm sure I've done it like that as well at some point to a seized cup
Great video. What do you call the tool you used on the non drive side?
I do the same with stubborn sealed square tapered BBs. But you use the rod from a quill stem and just screw it in so the tool locks in. I sometimes have to sit down on the ground, put my feet on the frame and then "deadlift" to get the BB out.
Works like a charm.
I definitely bolt them too now. I just use some more spacers and use the thread in the end of the axle to bolt them too though.
@@MonkeyShred I think RJ the bike guy showed that tip. Not sure. Either way that guy's a gem.
One time I had to use a blow torch on the frame, then use another frame connected to my spanner wrench to lengthen the momentum arm. It was the craziest sketchiest solution ever.
But I got it out, booyah.
cheers
Can't remove my fixed right cup at the moment and it looks so satisfyingly good watching it slowly turn
You can do it!
Fabulous
Cheers!
thanks... 💯
You're welcome!
That's a fantastic tip - after all, nobody wants to damage their tool ;)
Thanks
Oh that’s genius. The “New” Argos bike has this style of BB I think. It’s less than 6 months old and already has a wobble on it. What sort of grease would you recommend? I’ve got some old Molybdenum car grease for joints. Would that be ok?
Great video, I thought you were going to use the nut & bolt / impact driver RJ method. Dunno if I'd wanna invest in the park tool for it's limited use, though it must be nice to have one.👍🏼
Oh no! I've done that method on the 1939 Raleigh Dawn I "had".... It left me with a fractured drive side cup and flattened threads on the NDS ruining the frame... and the cup was still stuck!
I wish i thought of this years ago when I had a '68 super course project. It took 1 week of pb blaster and a wrecked wrench to get mine free.
Honestly, I know the feeling! Now I bolt down any tool I can on a BB
Thanks a lot. I'm gonna have to get a long rod then 👍😅😝
100-150mm should be plenty. It doesn't have to be too long!
Another variation on your trick is to use a lock washer in the place of one of your washer so you have a washer then the lock washer then the nut. Take a 18+ inch breaker bar and socket and turn the nut clockwise. The nut will tighten on the lock washer the lock washer will tighter on the regular washer turning the whole bottom bracket off.
Thanks interesting
You're welcome
If this method fails, you can set up the same way,or use a bolt & nut minus the BB spanner and use an impact gun. Once set up a local garage will usually help.
I've tried that method after seeing RJ do it. It didn't work for me, trashed the NDS threads and actually fractured the drive side cup! The cup was still stuck in the frame.
Shouldn’t you put some type of protection between the nut and cup on the backside to prevent damage to the bearing race? Maybe a rubber washer? Or reinstall the other cup and but a washer and nut against that?
It was a great idea but risk on scratching and pitting the bearing race.
Don't worry, the cups on old english bikes are very hard
Yeh you can do but they are hardened to a good degree and I'm not actually bolting it down with much force. Just finger tight to hold the tool down.
I’ve got into the bad habit of leaving that cup in if the race looks good once cleaned out. I don’t own the particular park tool though and it’s a battle with the adjustable spanner. Top tip though!
The adjustable can be clamped too, it might still wiggle itself open though :(
Great video - I've used my Park Tool headset press to similar effect. I've just started to work on a friend's frame with this style BB and (as I've seen mentioned below), the drive side cup is painted which seems will make the whole process harder! Just waiting for the tool to be delivered and not looking forward to it.
I was hoping to replace this bb with a modern cartridge sealed unit. I've read conflicting evidence that some of the shells have a thread with 26tpi others with 24tpi. If I find I cant fit a modern BB because it's the wrong thread, I don't see why couldn't fit a modern crankset still? I have modern Sturmey 1x crankset that requires a 103mm bb width - do you know if I can buy a 103mm spindle that would fit this old style BB? Hope that makes sense and sorry for the essay!
Yeh sure! Indeed it is a case that a lot of these older bikes ran 26tpi, espeically after Raleigh bought the companies. The other "issue" is the width of the BB shell often being 71mm. I have used the original cups and just upgraded the spindle though so you can get away with that. From memory, I think spindles beginning with 3 suit 68mm shells, 5 suit French and Italian 71mm shells and 7 suit the 73mm mountain bike shells.
I've noticed you doing this in several of your videos. You really have this down pat! And it's not something that would have occurred to me ...
Good spotting ;)
I always use an m14 Bolt and nut and put it trough the cup. Then i make it really tight. And then i put a big wrench on the bolthead and the cup Comes right out.
Its kinda janky but it works
I can see that working too!
I even bought a vintage Nos Usa park tool for this! Still struggled!
The shallow flats are honestly a nightmare!
oh this is a great hack! did you come up with this yourself?
I think so. I just got frustrated with it slipping off all the damn time!
3:50 that was easy - I have been tapping with hammer like that for 2 days and I made only one rotation counterclockwise, it is still hard to move it a millimeter... like it is welded...any idea how to take it off quicker
Очень интересно, но было бы приятно, если бы были русские субтитры. Автор, вы молодец)
Придется научиться говорить по-русски!
had a few probs with old stuck ones myself,think first,then get violent
Words to live by.
So the first side you removed had 7 bearings inside a little plastic case and the last side had 11 bearings just against the cup with no plastic casing?
Just in time, I've been struggling with my Raleigh Courier BB. Can you just leave that side in and put bearing racers in through the other side?
You can! It's a little more awkward to clean, add the grease and bearings but it is doable.
🙏❤️🙏
Can I change the bottom bracket to a different model or I need to replace with the same?
With these old bikes you're a bit stuck, especially if it is 26tpi. New cups for that are non existant. 24 tpi cups and axles are available though
can I toss this bottom bracket out and use normal bracket with normal system like -> SunRace Square Taper Bottom Bracket For 68mm Shell Alloy Cups, I'm struggling to remove that terrible bracket side. - never mind fixed and replacement support I had from cube fitted just fine, so I have thrown away that old crap.
Um, if it was a 26tpi like this one, the answer should be no because new products tend to run 24tpi and either fit a 68 or 73mm shell instead of this 71mm
@@MonkeyShred 68 was direct fit in my case.
fuck me thats good idea.... lmao i just left that on when i was restoring my bike. Taped it up when i was painting it too haha
It occurs to me that really, you could just leave that stuck part in there, as you have removed and gotten access to the bearings already. Just clean it out as best you can, repack the bearings, grease up the inside of the stuck part, put it all back together and you are done, with the hardest part skipped.
Of course you can. You could just squeeze new oil in through the oil port if you really didn't want to take it apart too.
could you provide key name ??
The HCW-11? It's mentioned in the video, the title, and the description.
I can’t count the times I’ve slipped and damaged my tool! 🤪
Oh I know! I ruined one and had to buy a new tool.
if I had this key I wouldn't look it up on youtube.
useless
I'm going to just weld something to the cup
So why are you here? Top tip for you, a bit of threaded rod with a washer and a couple of nuts is a lot easier to use than a welder.
@@MonkeyShred removing something with special key is obvious, it is useless to make a video about using key, because if someone has this key it would be removed.
It took me 3 minutes to unscrew it with welded rod, without need of buying special tool just to use it once.
@@jc438 so again, why are you here? 😂 You completely missed the point of the video btw. It’s not about saying this is the tool you need. It’s how to use it easily. Try and use it without bolting it to a stubborn cup and see what happens.