Hello RJ, great videos! I noticed in this video you install the cotter pins with the fixing nuts facing in the SAME direction. However, doing this may cause the crank arms not to be pointing 180 degrees apart. Explanation and remedy: the bevel angle of the first cotter pin will cause the first crank to be facing slightly off the diagonal of the first flat part of the axle. When installing the second cotter pin with the fixing nut facing in the OPPOSITE direction, you will have the second crank again facing slightly off the diagonal of the second flat part of the axle, but in the opposite direction, thus compensating for the off on the first crank, and therefore having the crank arms pointing neatly 180 degrees apart. Greetings from Vienna Austria, Mikko Stout/Stadtradler
I had a Peugeot racer when I was a teenager. I watched my father repair the cotter pins which didn't fit and also had to be filed down. This video brought back some happy memories. Thank you.
I have fond memories about my peugeot bike: In the summer when I was ~15, I earned money delivering the local newspaper, also taking over from "colleagues" in vacation time. The money earned I used to buy a brand new Peugeot ?H10 in 1979 / 1980 or something like that. I rode it for over 7000 Km before it was stolen. It was such an elegant bike, loved it...
Hello, Your videos are SOOOO helpful and informative. I say Thank you! I would like to say, that if anyone is having the darnedest time getting that Bottom bracket cup off on a Peugeot, its very possible the drive side cup loosens the opposite direction. Clockwise. I couldn't get it off , then I tried the other way and then it came undone. So not all Peugeots loosen counter-clock wise. Hard to say what models had what threading in the mid - late 80's on Peugeots. Thank you again!
I'm glad that I'm not the only one to have had the cotter pin problem. To solve my problem, I purchased a can of computer de-duster (compressed air stuff). I turned it upside down, and I sprayed the cotter pin til it was ice cold. After that, I bashed it through!
I would have tried using liquid propane... which is very cold stuff. `100 or something. Outside and away from the house, and on a windy day... at the very least wear thick winter gloves while fooling around like this..... Before you install the cotter pins, leave them in a freezer for 8-24 hours (or more): the metal will shrink a bit, so will go into the hole a little easier and farther. :-) Install them right after taking them out of the freezer. You could freeze the with the lube on them...
Thank you for this freezing tip both of you: it is much more available than heat!! These sort of tricks and tacit knowledge is much harder to acquire, than any this kind of job on higher level. @@christophergreen5735 but wouldn't this freezer trick put them too tight, a trouble for the next guy.. Hmm, perhaps not, as you would spare the 50 mi retightening. Thanks! PS. I think I'll use bolt tar spray, after installing, to keep the rust out..
I know this is an old video but maybe somebody will read the comment. About a year ago I got one bike that needed cables, started watching these videos and others. I fell in love with making a bike ride right now I have six. I'm waiting on parts right now so I'm going to have to settle for a ride! There's a couple people that are getting bikes this year for Christmas. I got to clear out space to fix some more!
I had to do the first part yesterday on a Peugeot mixte. I wasn't sure if it's French or Swiss threading, I had to judge it visually once I took off the adjustable (non-drive side) cup and looking inside. The threads look opposite to each other, so I took the gamble and started hammering my tool on the drive-side clockwise to undo it, and it worked! Phew! But now I have a swiss BB with worn cups, and I don't know whether they're still OK to use. I had to drill my cotter pins and my advice, to make your life easier, buy a cobalt drill bit, they are tough and sharp and go through metal like butter. They are a bit more expensive, I bought a 4mm and 6mm bit separately and they did the job. I'm waiting for my new 9mm cotter pins to arrive and I'll start putting it all back together with the worn cups... If it doesn't feel smooth, I'll take them out again and splash out on some threadless BB cartridge alternative...
I had a bottom bracket set up just like that on a 1973 echo road bike that I'm redoing right now and I literally it was so rusted I had to cut it off just to get the bracket out. Thanks for this video I've been looking for one like this so I know how to convert that old bracket style to the new one you're the man brother
This is a good video for a cotter pinned BB overhaul regardless of original nationality of the manufacturer. When removing an old cotter pin apply a real rust breaker, to both ends of the cotter pin, after you loosen the fixing nut about one turn. With the nut loosened one turn, use your hammer on the nut. This can preserve the threads on the cotter pin so you can use those pins again. With that nut on the threads it makes the impact point stiffer and this will transfer more loosening force into the cotter pin slope to loosen it without a drill bit. Another way to avoid drilling the cotter pin. Loosen the nuts, or take the nuts off, spray the cotter pin with rust breaker and go ride the bike. When installing the fixed cup or the adjusting cup one should apply grease on the cup threads and the bottom bracket threads in order to get an even coating on all the threads. This will make it easier to adjust the BB with this installation and make overhaul easier next year or a decade after the install. Trying to anchor, tighten, the cotter pin with the fixing nut RJ is absolutely right. DON'T try to pull the cotter pin into its tightened final position with that retaining nut. The cotter pin will snap into two pieces. That nut is just to keep the cotter pin from backing out, loosening. If the retaining nut does not have a Nylock retainer built into the nut, use a retaining liquid to keep the nut from loosening itself. If you don't want to buy the all time favorite 'Blue' medium strength thread lock, use some finger nail polish on the treads. Fingernail polish color doesn't matter. Before you make your final adjustment of the bottom bracket bearings, install the drive side crank arm. With this arm in place you can use it like a lever to detect a looseness. Lift the arm up to about a 2 or 10 o'clock position and let go. This will let you see how smooth it is moving.
nicely done! .. brings back memories.. I had a white Peugeot UO8 (UO8s had chromed forks, as in the videos, the AO8s did not) just like that one back in the seventies (rode it until ~mid 80's).
Thank you so much for this video, RJ The Bike Guy. I'm wanting to overhaul the bottom bracket on my '79 Raleigh Superb and you've really made things clear and concise. Keep'em coming.
Super Nice! Thanks! I am a young bicycle repair mans apprentice and for my own old bike I needed this information since at my work we have mostly modern bicycles with different systems.
Thanks for this video, and the others. I've just bought a PV10 that needs a lot of tender loving care to get it back on the road, and your videos are a great help.
Thank you for creating and sharing this video (an your many other videos). I just got my mid 70s Peugeot back home and am going to start on the restoration. The cotter pins look daunting, but I'm glad to know it can be done! Also, thanks for linking the tools.
Thank you RJ! I have the same Peugeot and felt the bearings go sour yesterday. This will save make it possible for me to do this myself. Excited and nervous to give it a whirl.
Superb video. I have just taken out the cotterpinned BB of a Raleigh Chiltern. But the pedal arms are about 10 degrees out when reassembled. Bit of an odd one so looking at replacing the axle. Lots of different dimensions for the axles but hopefully get sorted. Thanks George UK
Since it can be hard to adjust the bearing play when reassembling I would suggest attaching the DRIVE crank first since then you can use the crank arm as leverage to see if there is still play while still having easy access to the adjustable cup and lock ring if they need to be adjusted. The bearings might seem fine with no arms attached but still have play when the DRIVE arm is attached and need to be tightened slightly.
Hey RJ... Your videos are so helpful and informative. Those links to those tools you used also saved my knuckles and checked my frustration level. Thank you Sir.
Upgrading the crank to a modern square taper crank is very easy. The procedure is as you show it up to the point of inserting the spindle. At this point, insert a JIS square taper #5 spindle which is the correct length to work with the original cups. Adjust as you show and then any JIS square taper crank can be mounted. A modern aluminum crank would be much lighter than the steel original and much easier to overhaul the next time.
But if the threads are both clockwise a modern bb will only fit on one side. I guess an italian thread bb with and english thread cup off another bb might work.
RJ, next time you try to remove a pin or bolt, heat the bolt with a torch, cool a bit, douse with penetrating oil, repeat, then drive out the pin, it will come out clean and reusable that way.
THANK YOU i have a travel bike based on an old mountain bike and have kind of the same system but the iron balls are conected and always brake the iron conecter......now u gave me the idea to place only the balls inside....... i think we did it old times...... sorry for my english....
It seems to me the French and the Italians had the right idea here. I know this is rare, but I know someone who built a retro fixie using an old English frame, and one problem he had was the drive side bearing unscrewing. Pedals are made to tighten as we ride, but not the drive side on bottom brackets. I know they can be hard to remove, but I doubt being self tightening would make a lot of difference.
Boogering up the threads hitting on that pedal arm pin. Leave the nut on and loosen it then hit the nut, that way when you unscrew the nut it straightens out the threads if they get smashed a little. I've done it that was since the 70's
Great video . Just a heads up on the cotter pin. Next time use a air chisel hammer tool with a blunt tip. The pin pops right out and you can even reuse the cotter pin if needed . cheers and keep posting.
I am most of the way through this job on the same bike. The pins tend to bend when using a tie rod tool, so pressing has limited use. On the drive side it took a lot of drilling to get it out, a lot of work. Using the same method on the left side I had it out in under 10 minutes. Luck of the draw on these.
this is so helpful, thank you! I just watched your other video, how to make an inexpensive cotterpin press from a top beam clamp = it totally worked! I'm ready to start filing my cotterpins....
My left crank can move slightly while Rte the drive crank is stationary. Do that mean my axel is possibly broken? Also where's the best place to get parts in Canada/USA? Thanks! Great video btw. Restoring the bike I had when I was 14 . Love it .
BrainSeepsOut Okay....I think removing modern cranks with a $10 puller is a heck of a lot easier than old cottered cranks. And you don't have to replace the cotter pins, which includes fileing the new ones down to match the taper etc.
Very good technique throughout. I too like to work without gloves for better feel. What i would object to, however, is keeping your gold ring on in the process.
Saludos desde Uruguay!!yo también poseo una bicicleta Peugeot y no pude encontrar un video en mi idioma que mostrara claramente el armado del eje centro..muchas gracias ...me va a ser muy muy util.
Похож на велосипеды "Турист","Спорт" и "Спутник" производства Харьковского велозавода, даже защитный диск на заднем колесе такой же как на ХВЗ. А внутренний размер покрышек интересный не 622 мм как на велосипедах ХВЗ, а 630 мм.
Thank you so much for you help i have a peugeot and i didn't know how to remuve the cup cone is very old too and may be de 3rd or 4 rt owner, Looks the same but in read I give you like
I would have tried a punch fitted closely to the diameter of the bolt.....and a lead hammer....that didn't work I would have tried a regular shop hammer. Maybe a nut threaded on to beat on rather than the bolt itself. Or just let the penetrating oil work at least overnight. Rusted parts 'welded' in place are often unpredictable. My roommate in college my first yr had this exact bike (racing bar in front)....maybe even the same color. I had no idea what a real quality road bike was in those days....I was envious of his compared to my three spd Columbia.
Using a wooden board to hold the crank while hitting the cotter pin is why he could not remove it. The wood just absorbs most of the G-force from the blow. Use something steel instead - or even brick or concrete block.
I usually don't remove fixed cup to overhaul the BB unless I need to replace a new BB. And the tool used in this video to remove/tight lock ring are really tend to slip when you apply torque, so need to be really careful using it. One thing I am confused is that my BB shell is clean and the threads are in good condition, so is my BB. But it really could not thread in with only hand, as smooth as it showed in this video. I can only use hand to give it two or three turns then need to use tool. Not sure if there is something wrong in my situation.
Hi RJ, thanks for another brilliant video. Can you please tell me what the corrugated plastic tube present in bottom bracket is and is it necessary to put it bank in?
Hi RJ another interesting video, I was wondering if you have plans to do one with setting up and adjusting these old style gears which would have been fitted to this kind of bike cheers
Hi! Great video! I have a old German bike and I'm trying to take the lock nuts out but I guess the screw is damaged. I twist them and they just turn around and around and don't come out. They are not rounded. Do you think I would need to drill the nut and the pin as well?
RJ, thanks for all the great videos. Very helpful! I am restoring a 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, with Stronglight cranks. I have the 23.35 crank pull from Stein. I understand the non-drive side bottom bracket threads to be right hand thread, removing counter clockwise. You mention French and Italian bottom brackets to be right hand thread also on the drive side, requiring removal with counter clockwise effort. Before I try to unscrew the BB on the drive side of this English bike, can you let me know which way it will unscrew? I am inclined to unscrew clockwise unless you advise otherwise. Thanks so much!
You can probably install square taper cranks, but that is probably the limit as old French bikes have different threadings. You would need to buy some square taper cranks, and a French threaded bottom bracket to match.
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Thanks to your video now i know what to do but next time try using a vice grip to hold your bar, that way you'll be able to hit it harder.
Hi RJ thanks for the video! What/where/How did you buy the right cotter pins? I have the same bike. Cheers
Thank you for this video, really helps the family 👍
Ok
Hello RJ, great videos! I noticed in this video you install the cotter pins with the fixing nuts facing in the SAME direction. However, doing this may cause the crank arms not to be pointing 180 degrees apart. Explanation and remedy: the bevel angle of the first cotter pin will cause the first crank to be facing slightly off the diagonal of the first flat part of the axle. When installing the second cotter pin with the fixing nut facing in the OPPOSITE direction, you will have the second crank again facing slightly off the diagonal of the second flat part of the axle, but in the opposite direction, thus compensating for the off on the first crank, and therefore having the crank arms pointing neatly 180 degrees apart. Greetings from Vienna Austria, Mikko Stout/Stadtradler
I had a Peugeot racer when I was a teenager. I watched my father repair the cotter pins which didn't fit and also had to be filed down. This video brought back some happy memories. Thank you.
I have fond memories about my peugeot bike: In the summer when I was ~15, I earned money delivering the local newspaper, also taking over from "colleagues" in vacation time. The money earned I used to buy a brand new Peugeot ?H10 in 1979 / 1980 or something like that. I rode it for over 7000 Km before it was stolen. It was such an elegant bike, loved it...
I have this model in Blue. It's unbelievable what videos you find on UA-cam, this is exactly the solution to my problem. Thank you.
Amazing tutorial. Absolutely exactly what I precisely needed. You have no idea how helpful this is.
You are a saint to save an old bike like this. Most would throw it in the trash due to it's condition, complex servicing, and rarity of parts.
Hello, Your videos are SOOOO helpful and informative. I say Thank you! I would like to say, that if anyone is having the darnedest time getting that Bottom bracket cup off on a Peugeot, its very possible the drive side cup loosens the opposite direction. Clockwise.
I couldn't get it off , then I tried the other way and then it came undone. So not all Peugeots loosen counter-clock wise. Hard to say what models had what threading in the mid - late 80's on Peugeots. Thank you again!
I'm glad that I'm not the only one to have had the cotter pin problem. To solve my problem, I purchased a can of computer de-duster (compressed air stuff). I turned it upside down, and I sprayed the cotter pin til it was ice cold. After that, I bashed it through!
I would have tried using liquid propane... which is very cold stuff. `100 or something. Outside and away from the house, and on a windy day... at the very least wear thick winter gloves while fooling around like this.....
Before you install the cotter pins, leave them in a freezer for 8-24 hours (or more): the metal will shrink a bit, so will go into the hole a little easier and farther. :-) Install them right after taking them out of the freezer. You could freeze the with the lube on them...
Thank you for this freezing tip both of you: it is much more available than heat!!
These sort of tricks and tacit knowledge is much harder to acquire, than any this kind of job on higher level.
@@christophergreen5735 but wouldn't this freezer trick put them too tight, a trouble for the next guy.. Hmm, perhaps not, as you would spare the 50 mi retightening. Thanks!
PS. I think I'll use bolt tar spray, after installing, to keep the rust out..
My 30 years old bottom bracket loosen this morning, first I worried about what to do but your video relaxed my very much. Thanks!
I know this is an old video but maybe somebody will read the comment. About a year ago I got one bike that needed cables, started watching these videos and others. I fell in love with making a bike ride right now I have six. I'm waiting on parts right now so I'm going to have to settle for a ride! There's a couple people that are getting bikes this year for Christmas. I got to clear out space to fix some more!
Thanks, picked up a Coppi folding bike and have never repacked any bicycle bearings before, this helped a lot.
I had to do the first part yesterday on a Peugeot mixte. I wasn't sure if it's French or Swiss threading, I had to judge it visually once I took off the adjustable (non-drive side) cup and looking inside. The threads look opposite to each other, so I took the gamble and started hammering my tool on the drive-side clockwise to undo it, and it worked! Phew! But now I have a swiss BB with worn cups, and I don't know whether they're still OK to use. I had to drill my cotter pins and my advice, to make your life easier, buy a cobalt drill bit, they are tough and sharp and go through metal like butter. They are a bit more expensive, I bought a 4mm and 6mm bit separately and they did the job. I'm waiting for my new 9mm cotter pins to arrive and I'll start putting it all back together with the worn cups... If it doesn't feel smooth, I'll take them out again and splash out on some threadless BB cartridge alternative...
This is exactly the video I needed to fix up a 1975 BSA Tour of Britain. Great job!
I had a bottom bracket set up just like that on a 1973 echo road bike that I'm redoing right now and I literally it was so rusted I had to cut it off just to get the bracket out. Thanks for this video I've been looking for one like this so I know how to convert that old bracket style to the new one you're the man brother
Thanks for the good explanation! On my mid 80s Peugeot the fixed cup was left-hand threaded, just to remind future me.
Its called a Swiss thread.
This is a good video for a cotter pinned BB overhaul regardless of original nationality of the manufacturer. When removing an old cotter pin apply a real rust breaker, to both ends of the cotter pin, after you loosen the fixing nut about one turn. With the nut loosened one turn, use your hammer on the nut. This can preserve the threads on the cotter pin so you can use those pins again. With that nut on the threads it makes the impact point stiffer and this will transfer more loosening force into the cotter pin slope to loosen it without a drill bit. Another way to avoid drilling the cotter pin. Loosen the nuts, or take the nuts off, spray the cotter pin with rust breaker and go ride the bike.
When installing the fixed cup or the adjusting cup one should apply grease on the cup threads and the bottom bracket threads in order to get an even coating on all the threads. This will make it easier to adjust the BB with this installation and make overhaul easier next year or a decade after the install.
Trying to anchor, tighten, the cotter pin with the fixing nut RJ is absolutely right. DON'T try to pull the cotter pin into its tightened final position with that retaining nut. The cotter pin will snap into two pieces. That nut is just to keep the cotter pin from backing out, loosening. If the retaining nut does not have a Nylock retainer built into the nut, use a retaining liquid to keep the nut from loosening itself. If you don't want to buy the all time favorite 'Blue' medium strength thread lock, use some finger nail polish on the treads. Fingernail polish color doesn't matter. Before you make your final adjustment of the bottom bracket bearings, install the drive side crank arm. With this arm in place you can use it like a lever to detect a looseness. Lift the arm up to about a 2 or 10 o'clock position and let go. This will let you see how smooth it is moving.
Thank you so much for your time and attention when reading and answering my ques. your awesome.
nicely done! .. brings back memories.. I had a white Peugeot UO8 (UO8s had chromed forks, as in the videos, the AO8s did not) just like that one back in the seventies (rode it until ~mid 80's).
iv got 1 with the full touring package
Watching stuff like this is so satisfying
chuchas
Thank you so much for this video, RJ The Bike Guy. I'm wanting to overhaul the bottom bracket on my '79 Raleigh Superb and you've really made things clear and concise. Keep'em coming.
Super Nice! Thanks! I am a young bicycle repair mans apprentice and for my own old bike I needed this information since at my work we have mostly modern bicycles with different systems.
Im restoring a old peugeot road bike and your video really help me thank
Thanks for this video, and the others. I've just bought a PV10 that needs a lot of tender loving care to get it back on the road, and your videos are a great help.
I'm rebuilding an old racing Bike , these Videos are priceless thank you
6:46 “such fun” lmfao I lose it every time 😹
Thank you for creating and sharing this video (an your many other videos). I just got my mid 70s Peugeot back home and am going to start on the restoration. The cotter pins look daunting, but I'm glad to know it can be done! Also, thanks for linking the tools.
Thank you RJ! I have the same Peugeot and felt the bearings go sour yesterday. This will save make it possible for me to do this myself. Excited and nervous to give it a whirl.
Superb video. I have just taken out the cotterpinned BB of a Raleigh Chiltern. But the pedal arms are about 10 degrees out when reassembled. Bit of an odd one so looking at replacing the axle. Lots of different dimensions for the axles but hopefully get sorted. Thanks George UK
Since it can be hard to adjust the bearing play when reassembling I would suggest attaching the DRIVE crank first since then you can use the crank arm as leverage to see if there is still play while still having easy access to the adjustable cup and lock ring if they need to be adjusted. The bearings might seem fine with no arms attached but still have play when the DRIVE arm is attached and need to be tightened slightly.
Love too see the vintage bikes be work on .. thanks !
Keep em Rollin
Hey RJ... Your videos are so helpful and informative. Those links to those tools you used also saved my knuckles and checked my frustration level. Thank you Sir.
oh jeez this is an old video... but just what I need. I have to do this exact thing to my old Atala 5 speed. Thank You
Upgrading the crank to a modern square taper crank is very easy. The procedure is as you show it up to the point of inserting the spindle. At this point, insert a JIS square taper #5 spindle which is the correct length to work with the original cups. Adjust as you show and then any JIS square taper crank can be mounted. A modern aluminum crank would be much lighter than the steel original and much easier to overhaul the next time.
can you replace the entire bottom bracket altogether? and if so, what kind of bottom bracket would you need if you wanted a square taper?
depends on the size, so check it
replacing the bb is also expensive
But if the threads are both clockwise a modern bb will only fit on one side. I guess an italian thread bb with and english thread cup off another bb might work.
Another enjoyable and educational video. I'm on a bike video watching binge tonight.
Thanks, RJ the Bike Guy. :-)
cotter pin = trouble， thanks for the information
This video has been so helpful. Thank you so much 😊
This system with a pins in the crank levers must pain in ass 😅 Hate it since my childhood
RJ, next time you try to remove a pin or bolt, heat the bolt with a torch, cool a bit, douse with penetrating oil, repeat, then drive out the pin, it will come out clean and reusable that way.
this video is way better than parktool or anything
THANK YOU i have a travel bike based on an old mountain bike and have kind of the same system but the iron balls are conected and always brake the iron conecter......now u gave me the idea to place only the balls inside....... i think we did it old times...... sorry for my english....
Like this: ua-cam.com/video/BNfRD4ETDL0/v-deo.html
Nice video. I had a bike in my childhood with exact cotter pin system. Crank arms never kept 180 degree sweep each against other.
Peugeot road bike? How nice.
Yes. 1970-74 Peugeot. Maybe a UO-8 or something similar.
Use a cotter pin press ar a makeshift one with ac clamp And a socket, works great and you can reuse the pins
Good video. Thanks for taking the time to produce a quality video!
It seems to me the French and the Italians had the right idea here. I know this is rare, but I know someone who built a retro fixie using an old English frame, and one problem he had was the drive side bearing unscrewing.
Pedals are made to tighten as we ride, but not the drive side on bottom brackets.
I know they can be hard to remove, but I doubt being self tightening would make a lot of difference.
Split10 i think it would work better right ? probably a bitch to take out but oh well.
Boogering up the threads hitting on that pedal arm pin. Leave the nut on and loosen it then hit the nut, that way when you unscrew the nut it straightens out the threads if they get smashed a little. I've done it that was since the 70's
Eleven 😃 i just tried aaand the result is unbelievable 👍 thanks
I have the same grease gun and it is my favorite bike tool!
Great video . Just a heads up on the cotter pin. Next time use a air chisel hammer tool with a blunt tip. The pin pops right out and you can even reuse the cotter pin if needed . cheers and keep posting.
Very Good so many bike do not know even what a cotter pin bottom bracket is ,Excellent ,I have an old Mistral super sport
Greatings creativiti unlimited👍
Impressive work RJ...
Super helpful. Thank you.
I am most of the way through this job on the same bike. The pins tend to bend when using a tie rod tool, so pressing has limited use. On the drive side it took a lot of drilling to get it out, a lot of work. Using the same method on the left side I had it out in under 10 minutes. Luck of the draw on these.
this is so helpful, thank you! I just watched your other video, how to make an inexpensive cotterpin press from a top beam clamp = it totally worked! I'm ready to start filing my cotterpins....
Good video good knowledge repairing of bicycle bottom bracket thank you sir for this video . 🚲🚴🚴❣️☺️
Job well done,love you videos,i always learn from them thanks
Super Film
pls make a video introducing the tools you have used to remove the nuts/ locknuts and grease-gun and where they would be available online.
ua-cam.com/video/KBvUIQSmkcA/v-deo.html
Great video, thank you!
Thanks so much this is exactly what I needed!
Great video
Very well done sir. thank you
My left crank can move slightly while Rte the drive crank is stationary. Do that mean my axel is possibly broken?
Also where's the best place to get parts in Canada/USA? Thanks!
Great video btw. Restoring the bike I had when I was 14 . Love it .
you fixed my doubt.....thank you
One advantage of the vintage bottom brackets-No crank puller required!
BrainSeepsOut Okay....I think removing modern cranks with a $10 puller is a heck of a lot easier than old cottered cranks. And you don't have to replace the cotter pins, which includes fileing the new ones down to match the taper etc.
Point taken.
Just clean the fixed cup in situ and yes a little fiddly!
but it saved you 10$ ;)
Very good technique throughout. I too like to work without gloves for better feel. What i would object to, however, is keeping your gold ring on in the process.
I rarely take my wedding ring off.
Saludos desde Uruguay!!yo también poseo una bicicleta Peugeot y no pude encontrar un video en mi idioma que mostrara claramente el armado del eje centro..muchas gracias ...me va a ser muy muy util.
very good ! i have several little "pijo" in france !
Thanks. FYI, there are three common pronunciations: Peugeot (UK: /ˈpɜːrʒoʊ/, US: /puːˈʒoʊ/; French: [pøʒo])
i pronunce "pijo", as a joke....... hi! rj ! mich, france
Ahhh! :D
Perfect 🥰 👌👌👌👌
I use a small flat wore out punch after the wd 40 to get pins out
This was very helpful.
Похож на велосипеды "Турист","Спорт" и "Спутник" производства Харьковского велозавода, даже защитный диск на заднем колесе такой же как на ХВЗ. А внутренний размер покрышек интересный не 622 мм как на велосипедах ХВЗ, а 630 мм.
great stuff!
Well done, thanks!
I would coat the cotter pin with anti-seize compound and put a drop of blue Loctite on the cotter pin nut.
very interesting, it's a Nervar cranckset? could you send the leght of the axle? the bottom bracket shell is 70mm? Thanks
Thank you so much for you help i have a peugeot and i didn't know how to remuve the cup cone is very old too and may be de 3rd or 4 rt owner,
Looks the same but in read I give you like
I would have tried a punch fitted closely to the diameter of the bolt.....and a lead hammer....that didn't work I would have tried a regular shop hammer. Maybe a nut threaded on to beat on rather than the bolt itself. Or just let the penetrating oil work at least overnight. Rusted parts 'welded' in place are often unpredictable. My roommate in college my first yr had this exact bike (racing bar in front)....maybe even the same color. I had no idea what a real quality road bike was in those days....I was envious of his compared to my three spd Columbia.
Thank you!!!
Try using a butane torch and heat it until it glows red.
No way to remove the chain ring from the drive side crank arm?
Using a wooden board to hold the crank while hitting the cotter pin is why he could not remove it. The wood just absorbs most of the G-force from the blow. Use something steel instead - or even brick or concrete block.
I usually don't remove fixed cup to overhaul the BB unless I need to replace a new BB. And the tool used in this video to remove/tight lock ring are really tend to slip when you apply torque, so need to be really careful using it. One thing I am confused is that my BB shell is clean and the threads are in good condition, so is my BB. But it really could not thread in with only hand, as smooth as it showed in this video. I can only use hand to give it two or three turns then need to use tool. Not sure if there is something wrong in my situation.
Did you grease the threads (BB & cups)?
Hi RJ, thanks for another brilliant video. Can you please tell me what the corrugated plastic tube present in bottom bracket is and is it necessary to put it bank in?
It helps keep debris away from the bearings. Necessary, no. Recommended, yes.
Great video! Small question about the drilling: how does it work (what makes it loosen up)?
You're definitely entertaining mate...
thanks dad
matur suwun ilmunya mister.. ☺☺
Hi RJ another interesting video, I was wondering if you have plans to do one with setting up and adjusting these old style gears which would have been fitted to this kind of bike cheers
u r legend
excellent tutorial, helped me a lot.
Hi! Great video! I have a old German bike and I'm trying to take the lock nuts out but I guess the screw is damaged. I twist them and they just turn around and around and don't come out. They are not rounded. Do you think I would need to drill the nut and the pin as well?
hello uncle, what is the tool for removing the bottom bracket, and where do you buy it?
I'm from indonesa

RJ... I just purchased a 1985 peugeot p8. Wonder what bottom bracket I'd have? French Swiss British? The bike says made in France
Hey good video man!
RJ, thanks for all the great videos. Very helpful! I am restoring a 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, with Stronglight cranks. I have the 23.35 crank pull from Stein. I understand the non-drive side bottom bracket threads to be right hand thread, removing counter clockwise. You mention French and Italian bottom brackets to be right hand thread also on the drive side, requiring removal with counter clockwise effort. Before I try to unscrew the BB on the drive side of this English bike, can you let me know which way it will unscrew? I am inclined to unscrew clockwise unless you advise otherwise. Thanks so much!
Clockwise. ua-cam.com/video/P9oIUmdI5JU/v-deo.html
how hard would it be to put a modern crank set on an old french bike. I dont like the 70s bulky cranks
You can probably install square taper cranks, but that is probably the limit as old French bikes have different threadings. You would need to buy some square taper cranks, and a French threaded bottom bracket to match.
I think from my point of view that you should have heated it with a gas torch before drilling it. Anyway thanks for the video and take care.