removing a seized shimano bottom bracket
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2022
- hello pals, so today I struggled to get this shimano bottom bracket out, even with a breaker bar it would not budge.
So I thought of a plan to remove it and let you know incase you come across the same challenge.
please like and subscribe if you find the video useful!
thank you !
I just had one of these! Plastic cups on both sides (both damaged!), had to smack the axle out and drill/melt out most of the plastic cups, remove bearing outer race from NDS (god knows where the bearing had gone!), and punch out the DS! Favor for a neighbour that turned into about 4 hrs work! The thread gods were smiling on me, and granted the new METAL! BB safe passage after all that carnage (after 30 mins chasing out the threads!) The satisfaction of seeing that bike leave was glorious! I will try this method next time definitely, and will charge!
Did one earlier, had a 2 foot breaker bar and almost turned my arse inside out with the amount of force necessary, and when it cracked I hit the ground like a meteor.
After 31 years being in a shop, I finally had one that I simply could not budge. I had soaked it, heated it and did your method and nothing was working. So I took an impact wrench, and that did work... but it had to be a higher end model that had more power to accomplish that. Glad that you were able to get yours out, some days these older bikes are a challenge, but it certainly is fun to work on them.Thanks for sharing!!
Great technique. I've got a Shimano bottom bracket on a mountain bike from 1987. I'd tried getting off the bottom bracket in the 90s but couldn't budge it. In about 2018 after a couple 20 mile rides I redid the wheel bearings, and feeling like a good boy I went after that bottom bracket. Took me a couple of days. Never thought to put the tool in my bench vise that was ten feet away. (duh). But I finally got it off. It did not spin like the one in your video, it was like it was full of sand. Replaced, my 35 year old bike pedals like a new bike. And it has a double front derailleur, I couldn't find any new MTBs with the same gear range - so I haven't bought one. Great video - wished I'd seen this twenty years ago....
I did the same at my old job, then one day I stuck it in the vice but like you said you just don’t think to use vice
Thanks for your comment and I like how long you kept your bike 👍
Hello retro bike fit, sorry I am a year late for you. But this is a good idea of mine if you haven't already tryed this. I had a right pig of a seized, bottom bracket. I applied liberal WD40, let it soak and the applied heat to the threaded part of the bottom bracket, making sure I did scorch the paint work and then with the BB tool you had taped the bar witt a hammer to help release the thread and it worked for me 😮😊. David from Northampton. Great vlog thank you.
I've removed a few stuck bottom brackets by this method. A further tip is to bolt the tool onto the BB spindle (hand tight), this holds the tool in place better in case you don't hold the frame perfectly level. This can often save the non-drive side cup. Holding the tool on also lets you shift between the vice and the stand (or ground) more easily.
The same method can also be applied to removing screw-on freewheels from old wheels. Note that in the case of a NDS cup or a freewheel the bolt will need to be loosened to allow the tool to move away from the spindle and in most cases you can remove the bolt once the thread has started turning and extreme force is no longer required.
how do you "bolt the tool onto the BB spindle"?? The tool doesn't bolt on it just sits into the splines?
@@liam314 Use a washer and the original bolt - If necessary, a slightly longer bolt
Thank you hope you see this , all day had tried gave up till next day then saw your vid , 5 minutes later off 👍
Awesome mate glad it helped and nice one 👍
I just removed a seized bb from my 2008 BadBoy Cannondale bike. I had to bolt the splined removal socket into the squared tapered bb. I had to also use a "cheater bar" to give me enough torque to budge the !@#$%. Long-story-short, road grime intruded into the threads on the drivetrain side and basically welded the cartridge to the BB threads. Guess what happened? Yup, I stripped the frames bb threads. The overnight soaking of copious amounts of PB Blaster and heat did not even come close to loosing or work its way into the threads. I haven't found a video yet that shows the BB threads getting stripped. Living the dream.......
Good job but having done a lot of these myself I can tell you an even easier more reliable way of doing this.. take a crank bolt from your axle into your local nut and bolt place and buy a 30mm bolt with that thread and a big thick washer for it which has an outer diameter bigger than the back of your socket. go bolt your socket onto your bottom bracket and get a big spanner onto the sockets hex. dont tighten the bolt completely. back it off just a tad so your bottom bracket part can undo.. this way you have literally bolted in place the socket. it can not rock or pop out at all. If your doing a full restoration including paint, you can also lightly heat with a blow torch the area of frame around the bb threads and spray in crc while still warm and expanded from that will help with seized ones. I currently run an ebike shop and also do a lot of restoration and custom built ebike stuff from older bikes. rebuilding them from the ground up. enjoy.
Mother of the Church! Look at all that rust drop out of the shell.
Anyone else that would also laugh if the vice had broken of the workbench? 😆
I have seen that happen in a workshop.
I did have to stop myself laughing.
Brilliant !
Nice - alternately if you don't have a vice or the teeth of the bb tool won't bite well you can rig a clamp up with a bolt through your bb tool into the thread of the square taper. Spin a nut down it onto a washer to tighten down enough to hold it in place. Use an adjustable spanner to turn the bb tool.
Yeah good method for worn teeth 👍
@@retrobikestuff760 crappy cheap tool in my case 🤣
@@russellspeight5175 😆
Blimey, I’ve just had exactly the same. Them plastic BB’s eh?!???? Mine was on a ‘94 Specialized Hardrock I was upgrading to a hollowtech II. I used a plumbers torch in the end and it just melted way. I used a pick to get it out in the end, then on the other side I’d heated it all up sufficiently that it came out after all.
Grand job, just got yourself a new subscriber 👍 Had similar issues many times, found a hammer action drill with a socket adaptor can also work to shock it loose. That or a long pipe for extra leverage. Had one that left the metal cup inside the BB, had to saw the cup into sections before it would budge. Hope you did not bend the frame nor weaken the welds? Cheers :-)
Thank you, I noticed when I watched it back the frame did flex a little but I think it’s ok 👍
Theres more than one way to Worcester ay there mate, fair play
There is matey lol
That's one way to do it lmao...
Note to self: **Need to buy vice**
😂😂
That was a good en
Thanks pal
Hello. After researching how to remove rust from a bicycle. I am trying to restore an vintage bicycle with a rusted sealed bottom bracket. After inspecting the bottom bracket I discovered that the bottom bracket appears to have layered rust on the bottom side. Do you have any knowledge or ideas on how to remove the rust. Awaiting a reply and have a good summer.
Reply
Did you try your breaker bar method with frame on the floor?
I tried just in the stand mate but the breaker bar makes the removal tool twist making it even more difficult to get out, thanks for your comment
You should have tried giving it a clean before you started... may loosen something 😊
Lol you have a good point but In this case it would have made no difference
Need a warning on this due to the free gun show 👀
😂😂
Wow, how on earth did it get so tight?
Did you see the depth of the corrosion? It was fused through corrosion, metal on metal.
Not even this technique worked for me with an old Marin. The frame would break before the bottom bracket would come out. It's still functional so i just left it. It will need to be drilled out eventually.
Have you tried soaking mate
@@retrobikestuff760 Yes. I soaked it in WD40 Specialist Penetrant. The left hand plastic side of the bracket sheered completely off in the top few mm so now there are is nothing to grab the tools teeth. There will be no way except to drill it out. I'm suspecting that Marin used some kind of thread lock. It looks like that.
@@ryanstark2350 I am also trying to remove a BB from my Marin frame, the bike shop says its seized in place and even their longest bar would not budge it. I dont mind if the threads inside are stripped because I only want it out to fit a mid drive motor through the frame hole.
what kind of drilling out were you thinking of / did?
@@utubeape You'll have to just drill holes through the parts that hold the botton bracket in until you can loosen it enough to remove. Even then, that could be difficult if Marin have thread locked it in. The plastic side should be easy but the metal side obviously won't be. I just left mine in. The whole bike was reconditioned apart from this part. It still works find but had a little play. I just flushed it out as best as I could and then let some thickened oil soak through that seems to have got into the bearings well enough to lubricate. It's pretty smooth now except for being a bit loose. It will probably be fine for many years. It's not worth drillig it until it's actually broken.
@@utubeape Once you have removed one side you should be able to get the actual bottom bracket out then some kind of narrow saw could be used on the other threaded part to weaken it.
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Ever heard of a heat gun chief my lord