Fuji X-H2S: A Canon User's Review
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- The new Fuji compared to more expensive full frame cameras
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0:00 Why care about the X-H2S
1:16 The lenses
2:48 Fuji vs Canon photos
3:54 Low light
4:07 Resolution comparison
4:17 In camera colours
6:58 Sponsored by Riverside
8:06 Video tests
10:26 Fan accessory
11:00 Autofocus
11:33 Speed and body design - Наука та технологія
Dude that throwback of you and Chris is WILD
The focus point moving was most likely cause by your nose or thumb touching the screen while the evf is engaged. By default Fuji cameras have this turned on to move the focus point with the touch screen while you're looking through the finder but it's easy to accidentally move the point to the other side of the screen when the camera is on just hanging around your neck. I turn this off right away on any new Fuji camera.
Yup that might have been it
It's happened with me 🤣
Even happens on my A7iii if by some accident I've activated touch. Took me far too long to figure this out the other day - I was going mental! xD
@@stalman Bro I watch your videos alot. Looking into the Fujifilm xh2s. Please shooting in F-log 2 with base iso of 1250 what is required ND filter to use? How many stops of ND
Please state applicable disclaimers: Is this an unbiased review or a Fujifilm commercial? How did you come to possess the camera and lens? Did Fujifilm have any inputs or conditions for publishing the video (explicit, implicit, or otherwise)? Are you compensated somehow for the "review" through a third party affliated with the manufacturer? Even if you have another video on the topic and disclaimers, it should be stated within each video review or at the very minimum referenced. Most viewers will not sift through your channel to search for it. If you want to know how it's done properly, see Gerald Undone's reviews. Best!
Setting things like noise reduction affects what your grain is going to look like. It’s a different kind of grainyness than you get with the grain setting.
Some of the film recipes are extremely close to their film spec sheets, like the Tri-X, others are not.
Many are made to replicate a look for certain pictures they used, while a few will behave like the film in any situation because of following the spec sheets.
Also, with many if not most you need to set the whitebalance to what daylight is actually at in your part of the world.
Great video, Tyler! I always appreciate your takes on things!
18-55 is the bomb. I just got one again and i am very happy. Fuji did some job with it. Has a very round 7 blade aperture and ois is a big help
I've been shooting with the X-H2s for almost a year now. I have always had fujifilm cameras. I think a lot of people think that you can only use the film simulations when shooting jpeg, or that the film simulation is permanently tied to the shooting settings whether that's raw or jpeg. But all of those film simulations will be available to you to decide between in post (at least it is in CaptureOne and Lightroom Classic). I have always shot raw files, and having that flexibility to select a good base for the further color grade has been great for me. I'm an avid hiker/backpacker, so the smaller body and weight is a must for me. It actually still feels big to me, I upgraded from the Fujifilm X-T4 haha. I needed the video capabilities though..
My favorite lens is the Fujinon 16mm f/1.4 by far, but they have so many budget friendly primes that are compact and weather sealed. Exactly what you need for hiking in the elements.
After a 5 year Canon user, Fuji just really hit me with their Xh2s. It’s not the best camera out there, nor the most performing, but it works on its own, it’s incredibly amazing from colors to that open gate in ProRes 😮
Great review Tyler! Would love to chop up Fuji talk with you some day.
Bro I watch your videos alot. Looking into the Fujifilm xh2s. Please shooting in F-log 2 with base iso of 1250 what is required ND filter to use? Also please what is the quality of the Metabones speed booster like. Any Color shift?
@@shridexdigi1982 i have a video coming out tomorrow about flog2 to! keep a look out!
@@CineDailies Hey, bro please I am still waiting on your review. Would be so exciting to see some EF glass on the Metabones speedbooster for fuji x mount. How good it is. Kinddly check out my youtue channel to see some stuff. I shot with Fujifilm xt3. Love from Nigeria, Africa
Thanks for the great video. I’m both canon & Fuji user I do a lot of portraits, events and Weddings for me there is two main differences obviously the depth of field with the standard zooms and the Canon R6 gives me cleaner images especially in low light and u can also push the iso higher on the Canon’s. Apart from that it comes down to weight.
Both can get the job done nicely when on a long wedding day especially now with the Xh2s the AF consistency is pretty much the on par. Interesting about the DR settings on the Fuji I used to do the same shoot exclusively around the 640 iso or higher but after a while the trade off I found is u get more noise in the shadows compared to iso 160. So especially outdoors 160 will still give u great DYNAMIC Range as long as u don’t over expose, but I found cleaner shadows and a better IQ overall.
Great review!! Love those Fuji colors!!
Great review! According to Pal2tech, you gain DR by picking DR400% (ISO 640) even in RAW. It works by keeping the highlights at the same brightness and lifting the shadows (therefore it needs to raise the ISO).
I had no idea it affected raw's, ill have to use this on my x-t4 😮
We love PAL2tech
Technically it doesn't affect raws. What a lot of people don't see is that when you set it to DR400, your camera actually exposes the image at base ISO, but boosts the shadows by 2-stops to give the effect that it was exposed at ISO 640. This is for the JPEG preview only. Lightroom and capture one read the RAW images exif data and see that it was taken with DR400, so it automatically does this same adjustment, while leaving the highlights untouched and "less exposed" than the shadows. So you aren't actually saving any data by shooting with DR400 in RAW, the camera/editing software just brings back the shadows of the underexposed image. If anything, you might save more data by just ETTR and bringing up the shadows in post by yourself, because the in-camera method introduces noise into the shadows.
@@Bocsaphoto Hey according to Pal2tech, it does affect RAW’s as well, even when pushing. But I would have to do test myself to confirm.
@@BTMovieSecondChannel It affects it only in the sense that it pre-applies slider changes to the RAW when imported. You can still undo this as if you never shot in DR400 to begin with after the fact.
This is such a good helpful review - thank you
It’s been so humid in Hawaii lately. Sucks when the trade winds die down. The good thing is we haven’t had any Vog (volcanic fog) lately float up from Big Island. Glad you got to enjoy your vacation and yeah my XH2S hasn’t over heated yet in Hawaii.
I have been out and about for 4 days now with a full Fuji GFX kit. I workout, you would think it wouldn’t hurt. I carry it a few times a week also for work. But less intensive I guess. The Fuji XH2S starts to look so good. Watching to understand the specs.
If the X-H2S is in Video mode, then you stop/start using the main shutter button. The small red video button is to start video when you are in stills mode.
Nice work Tyler! You need to try and get your hands on a 90mm F2 next time you test a Fujifilm. One of my favourite lenses in any mount.
Great review man! I also love the Maui footage and photography! Would recognize that place anywhere. Hope the island was great to you. Aloha!
I shoot Astia, Velvia, and Acros. I love the rich colors or the tunable b/w.
This new fuji camera is amazing for video and rivals the rivals. The kit lens has been described as the best kit lens in the world and other reviewers won’t even call it a kit lens as it’s basically an insult to the lens.
My favorites are the 16-55 2.8 and the 90f2. The 1.4 primes are great and have great bokeh and the f2’s are small, light and affordable.
And lately fuji has some great third party choices too
I have the Fuji X-Pro1 and the X-T1. My lens for them are the 18/2, 35/1.4 and the 56/1.2.
I bought a Canon R6 intending to get some more lens to add to my 16-35/4, 70-200/2.8, 100-400 and my 500/4. The RF lens cost is eye watering, even for a well funded amateur like myself. I can’t ever see me buying an RF lens and there’s little point getting any EF lens so I’m kind of in limbo with my Canon kit.
If I get an X-H2S/X-T5 will the AF match up to the R6 eye detect, which as a bird photographer is what attracted me to the R6 in the first place. I’ve only recently realised that Fuji has a 150-600 lens, if I’d known that my Canon purchase wouldn’t have been a definite thing. I did look at Sony, but I didn’t want the hassle of a complete system change, a new Fuji body wouldn’t have been such an issue.
IQ wise my older Fuji bodies easily compete with the R6, it’s just the animal eye focus which to be fair is so good on the Canon system. I’m trying to learn video at present, finding it a bit daunting to be honest, but I’ll stick it out for now. Apparently the Fuji video is very good, I’m not sure how it compares to Canon though…………
So, I do like the R6, I’m not hating on it, it’s just the cost of RF mount lens. If Canon open up the mount to Sigma that may help, but they would still struggle to match the Fuji lens.
In my opinion Fuji crushes Canon. Fuji has a soul unlike other brands. Been shooting Fuji since 2013.
I switched three months ago from canon to Fuji and I was shooting Canon for 10 years. I love the heck out of Fuji. I did have to give up lenses I used a lot but I’m slowly getting their replacements on Fuji. I also got a manual lens to go full manual. With focus peaking red high, I think I like manual focusing more than auto! I never had a camera that made me trust the auto focus as much as I would like. Even though the most expensive mirrorless I tested was the Canon EOS R. I’m sure the R5 and Sony auto focus is crazy good. At least I heard. But I have no regrets getting the X-T3.
@@itsbeaker6571 I know exactly how you feel. Back in 2013 I got the X-E2 and I fell in love. I kept the 18-55 kit lens for a long time and added vintage lenses to my collection. In 2019 I upgraded to the X-T3 and now I added the X-H2s to my bag. Enjoy your X-T3.
@@mariusmocan8491 I will! I keep seeing a lot of love for the kit lens and I have it, I guess im not shooting enough to appreciate it. But yeah I am in love. I want to go out and shoot more than ever. Its like I got my first camera again.
@@itsbeaker6571 For sure. The gear matters as far inspiring you to shoot. I currently own many Fuji lenses, but the 18-55mm is amazing and aged well with the Fuji system. It also has OIS so great for video too.
SOUL… I couldn’t have described it better. I love Fuji.
Nice video , I'm a huge r5 fan but would be interesting putting some of the more modern Fuji glass on the little machine .. and seeing how it performs.
You both look so baby faced in the 2011 clip haha love it!
In the days before beards
I think you’d like the Fuji red label lenses, they are extremely sharp!
planning to buy this camera soon 😀
Hi, great video, thank you! I am an analogue photographer for almost 20 years now, and have been thinking about filming the whole process. Starting at idea and capturing, and ending at darkroom, and enlarger work. I am torn between X-H2S and R8/R6MK2. Any thoughts about that? I want to be able to film in darkroom, that is really important to me. Very low, red light, tough conditions for sensor.
Also, film can "clip" :), especially positive, like Velvia, Provia, Astia. Negative films, like Across, C200 etc. can have much more latitude, but still highlights can be blocked.
Not sure if you are away but the shutter release button triggers the video record when in video mode. Greater video
The 16mm f1.4 lens is one of the Fuji's best. You should try the close distance focusing...really amazing.
The new 18mm f/1.4 is optically a step *far beyond* the 16mm f/1.4. Yes, there's a difference between 16mm and 18mm. Yes, there's a LOT more to a lens than just test charts! But even Fuji hasn't included the 16mm f/1.4 on their "high resolution ready" lens list. I own the 16mm f/1.4, it's a great lens, but it has... quirks, let's say.
@@AyeBeAPirate agree, I own both. Use the 18 now!
@@AyeBeAPirate Hopefully Fuji will release a new version of the 16mm soon. Maybe slightly improved AF (quieter) and ready for the higher resolution.
@@AyeBeAPirate You beat me to it! I have both and the 18mm F/1.4 IS superior, however they are both brilliant. Add to that the 56mm F/1.2 WR and the 90mm F/2 and you have a superb lineup.
I’m kinda waiting for your next podcast with Simbarashe to chat about this. Love all the episodes but the ones with him rock.
So one of my favorite things about shooting Fujifilm is after a long day at a wedding or even, I’m not near as tired. The gear is significantly smaller. I can also use JPEGs in a lot of situations when I need a quick turn around. Might be able to do that with Canon as well but no way could I on Sony
My xh2s records using the shutter button in video, did so out of the box. I know I’m nitpicking but otherwise great review. I’m loving mine so far and I’ve used almost every camera under $7000
How is your autofocus? I love fuji and panasonic colour science but I’ve seen reviews of most youtubers and they say the autofocus is real bad on both. What’s your take on this?
@@alibinfarman video af is actually pretty good! Way better than Panasonic, not quite as good as Sony.
If you hold in the joystick for a few seconds itll come up with a menu for you to change it to "Push to Unlock"
Hey! What were your film simulation & tone curve settings for the DJI video? Those colors look amazing!
The recipe in this video are the same settings I used in the DJI video. I'll also mention that video was exposed about a stop brighter than in it should have been, I could have saved more highlights
I'm obsessed with how the colours pop! 😂 Looks so nice! Definitely between this and the Lumix S5 for me
What did you end up picking? I was set to get the s5, but the xh2s is almost within my price range and definitely an interesting value proposition.
@@karikaru S5 was the dream but work bought an X-H2S 🙌🏼 can’t complain though, it’s so much fun to work with 💯
@@JamesAlexBarton congrats! It seems like a beast of a camera!
will i have problems on wedding photography with this beauti? I got a r6 but thinking about to switching to fuji
Cracking video! Cheers
4:50
Try using the hilight tone curve to give highlights a more filmic response.
Wow glad to know that review was shot on Fuji. I noticed something different it looked filmic
I'm sure you can customize the shutter button to start/stop video recording.
Great video. I am a 100% Fujifilm Cinematographer. After seeing the video and determining your style of shooting with the camera, I strongly suggest that you get the Fujifilm X-H2 with 40mp sensor and 8k video for under $2000 instead of the Fujifilm X-H2S. Furthermore, the two Fujinon lenses that you tested are old lenses with old technology. Three new lenses will be announced today September 8th at 2pm with the new release of the Fujifilm X-H2. Cheers 🍻.
I heard that the problem with the X-H2 is the rolling shutter, which is why they quickly came out with the X-H2S.
you can't be serious right?! 😅
As a Canon guy considering Fuji, your video is much appreciated!
Good to see someone objectively review the XH2S and taking the time to use/fully understand his camera. Good job enjoyed the video 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
It's still crap
@@nnix The problem with trolls like you is that you don't have the nerves to use your real profile but hide under fake account to say nonsense.
fuji needs to release a prosumer cinema camera competitor to the FX30
Do you know a gimbal that works with the xh2s via cable or Bluetooth?
Thank you so much🙏🏻
You are probably noticing the Fuji is sharper due to x-trans not using an anti-aliasing filter on top of the sensor. That’s why a lot of people complain about “sharpening worms” in Lightroom, Fuji files are sharper out of the box than a bayer sensor.
Hello, what do you think about the X-H2? Without the S? Can you review that camera?
Very informative, even for this Fuji user. The choice is between speed and resolution when looking at the X-H2 vs X-H2s. I'm waiting for the X-H2. Thou not doing a lot of video, I want to try 8K video just for fun. With 400mp files, I would need to invest in larger disk space:)
I prefer to process Fuji files on capture one. It let's you apply the film simulation to their raw files.
10:09 was this also shot with the kit-lense?
Sir , Can we Live stream at 1080p & record 4k internally with FUji X-H2S ? . Awesome video , Thanks :)
I want this shirt! So cool! 😍
Tyler, thank you for this review. I completely agree. I waited patiently for years to the next iteration of the X-H line, and the Xh2s has not disappointed. This, for a video shooter, is truly competitive video camera and luscious color and image quality. Plus, IMO, the Super 35 crop sensor is superior for video. Thank you Fuji for giving us video shooters a real video-oriented camera. PLEASE, just give us False color and a Waveform, and just a touch better Stabilization. PLEASE!
Just curious, would you get the X-H2s or the GH6? If they were the same price.
X-H2S hands down
What picture profile did you shoot your DJI video on with the XH2S? I usually shoot eterna but you said you leaned into classic chrome so I’m wondering lol
I didn't find a sweet spot for eternal, still need so much work I might as well shoot log. Chrome had it dialled right out of camera
@@stalman I loved your shots with chrome so now I’m looking into it! Haha
It just seems you’re not the target user of film emulations. You like editing your pictures. Things like Fuji X weekly recommend a dynamic range setting so you can easily get the vibe of a preset in your shots. You’re always free to tweak from there, of course.
Also, regarding the clipping of whites. Isn’t that just that you over exposed them or didn’t meter the scene properly? Honest question.
why wasn't opengate something used by default by all mirrorless since the beginning? i mean why did they choose the route of cropped 16:9 (or whatever it is), instead of what should be logical (now that i see these new "affordable" cameras implementing it) - reading the entire sensor?
I bring this up with every camera brand I can
First time watching one of your videos. Nice perspective on the camera. I think maybe you should reach out to Ritchie at FujiXweekly and do a joint video with his channel. His film sims are amazing and he's always the first to say his recipes are a suggestion and are "season to taste". Your video sounded somewhat critical of the recipes for being restrictive but that's really not what they are about. No jpeg is ever going to look truly like film but shooting some of his recipes side by side with the real film stock some of them are darn close. Cheers.
The shutter button actually triggers recording too.
I miss Fuji a lot. They have a great community and you can’t beat the size. But when you showed the Photoshop images, I saw that same old watercolor effect in the background imagery. I always considered that to be a sharpness flaw. This is why I switched to Canon and sharpness was no longer an issue. I think this all relates to the X-Trans sensors lack of full compatibility with Adobe and them wanting you to use CaptureOne.
For a pixel perfect image, I would still choose Canon. And you're right that I should be using CaptureOne to see the best of the Fuji but I just already had all the examples sorted in LR
@@stalman Lightroom also has Fujifilm simulations in the colour profile section, that way you can apply them to your raw files.
@@stalman yup, Capture One for Fuji 100%. For some reason Lightroom doesn’t like Fuji files.
This is to do with the X-trans unique sensor layout - which requires specific de-mosaicing by RAW software to process correctly. There are plenty of folks using Lightroom with Fuji, there are tips and options to work around this, or alternatives like Capture One who've put in the effort to work with x-trans very well, and other alternatives are out there too, like DxO PhotoLab.
@@AsuquoTravelsProductions LR tries to simulate the colours whereas I believe C1 worked with Fuji to get the colours correct.
not much people talks about is when after you preview a picture (playback mode) then you want to quickly change to shooting mode again altough is only a push of a button there's tha delay.. this is so annoy me. I often miss a moment becauce of this, I just dont know how to fix this. fujifilm should address this and fix it.
Hey Tyler, if you want open gate on your canon R5, you can use the canon c70 speedbooster to boost the full frame image circle, you will get vignetting, obviously, but you can pull a 1:1 crop from most full frame lenses and sometimes even get medium format footage from larger image circle lenses like the sigma full frame primes. I do this all the time if I want open gate on the R5, autofocus, works great, and an extra stop of light is always a plus!
Thats is not what shooting open gate is.
@@jessebyman9210 it gives you the ability to crop the 16:9 image to where the 4:3 or 3:2 full frame would be if the R5 had open gate. You have to take the full format image and crop the sides, yes, but you can actually get a larger vertical frame than open gate would have. It’s complicated but it works!
@@kylehessling2679 Yes I understand what you mean. But shooting open gate means you are utilizing the whole sensor of the camera. Yes you get a similar aspect ratio with this "open gate" method, but you arent shooting open gate.
@@jessebyman9210 that makes more sense, yes it’s a work around for sure but given the resolution of the sensor I never had a problem with cropping, but yes we’re essentially making the sensor larger with optics and then cropping the sides
I wish Fujifilm stuck with the video/photo switch versus putting it all on one dial so users could keep settings, button mapping, etc, for each photo and video
Agreed.
@4:48 - whaddya mean by "using their DR settings like DR400"? Is that a preset related to Fuji that somehow manipulates dynamic range automatically in LR? Or is it something else?
It’s a fuji setting. It has a massive impact on jpeg/video files, and also retains more detail in raws
@@stalman Thanks for explaining. Because you talked about it while on LR- I was thinking this was a feature used in post.
Anyways, great to hear out a Canon user trying other things. I also find it hard to move away from Canon, despite wanting to advance (as Canon is behind others, it's basics like skin colors out of the box, cinematic feel to the footage, etc- are still solid). All these new cameras look great on paper, but only some do impress when you see a raw handheld sample footage. And from what I've seen- this X-H2S looks impressive (mostly with a speed booster on). Hope they will have a full frame model that will still offer the same features and look+feel. It's always a mess to handle and buy equipment for cropped sensors. Always better to keep it all full frame or maybe Super35.
I enjoyed your take on the X-H2S, Tyler. As a Fuji and Canon user, it was interesting to hear you compare the two bodies. Two things I want to add to the conversation.
First, the DR setting and ISO: The X-H2S's maximum dynamic range is available at ISO 160. As you already know, changing the ISO setting doesn't make the sensor more sensitive. It amplifies the data coming off the sensor. The DR setting puts the amplifier into a tone mapping mode where shadows are boosted up to two stops (at 400% setting) while highlights may not be boosted at all. This is why the process doesn't work at base ISO. There is no amplification of the data coming off the sensor. How is this different than shooting at base ISO and raising the shadows in post? For RAW files, it isn't. However, there are many reasons why you may not want to or be able to shoot at base ISO. It is important to note that, depending on your RAW processor, you may not notice the difference between a RAW ISO 640 image at DR100 and another at DR400 until you start editing it. You will have additional latitude for recovery in the DR400 image. I believe that Canon's Highlight Tone Priority setting works the same way.
Second, I would argue that you are overstating the size difference between these two systems. The 18-55 F2.8-4 is a nice compact lens for sure but it is not representative as a whole. For example, look at Fuji's best "red badge" zooms. Fuji's XF 50-140 F2.8 is 50% larger and heavier than Canon's equivalent RF 70-200 F4L and the price difference is negligible. Fuji's outstanding XF 16-55 F2.8 is barely smaller and lighter than Canon's RF 24-105 F4L and the price difference is negligible. Fuji's XF 100-400 is very similar in price and weight to the Canon RF 100-500. It is definitely less expensive but it is also noticeably inferior in terms of optical quality. Fuji's excellent XF 8-16 F2.8 is both heavier and more expensive than Canon's RF 14-35 F4L. It's the same story when comparing Fuji's XF 80 F2.8 macro with Canon's RF 100 F2.8L. There is no size or weight advantage. (Yes, Canon's F1.2L primes are huge and stratospherically expensive but there are no Fuji equivalents for these lenses. The _equivalent_ primes to Fuji's F1.2 and F1.4 are Canon's F2 primes.) The bottom line is that there are plenty of reasons to get into the X-Series. It is excellent. But size and weight aren't usually great reasons.
One final note for video shooters. Fuji's lens lineup is weird. Even with the great video capabilities Fuji is building into their latest bodies, many of their lenses are only so-so for video. It is though there is no coordination at all between the lens designers and body designers, even for some of Fuji's newer lenses. It's not like with Canon where everything seems to be designed as a system that just works.
U would disagree with the lens argument. You are comparing for similar DOF.
Crop sensor users need to accept there is thinner DOF. When I shoot basketball I would never contemplate a 70-200 F4, I would be comparing the 2.8 lenses for low,light gathering and when you make those comparisons then most Fuji lenses are lighter
@@foxtrotyankee6131 Hi FYE. I certainly agree that a full frame F2.8 lens is heavier than an APS-C F2.8 lens. But that's not equivalence. The larger full frame sensor is going to gather 2.25x (1.5 crop factor squared) more photons to yield a higher quality, lower noise image. A full frame image shot at F4 and ISO _800_ will give you the same _noise_ _level_ and _shutter_ _speed_ as an APS-C image shot at F2.8 and ISO _400_ . There is no advantage either way. That's what equivalence means. Your basketball shots will look the same. Of course, this is theoretical. We're assuming that the two lenses have a similar efficiency of light transmission, that the two sensors have similar noise characteristics, and that the FF camera at F4 and the APS-C camera at F2.8 focus equally well.
As an older photographerwho worked in film (mostly slide film so I could print ilfochrome), I find the obsession with emulation quite odd. I guess that in a disconnected world it gives people a visual language to share (easier to say classic chrome, than say a sort of washed out look) but applying the limitations of 20-60 years ago seems an odd approach. Then again, we still refer to ISO!
There is a software update and it helps the joystick
Love the POV from a Canon user.
what camera do you use to film yourself?
gotta love john
Dynamic range setting is really something to be careful with, because … DR-settings limit the base iso, and there’s rarely a case where base iso is not the optimal goal… DR400, that your recipe uses… base iso will be 800!
This.
Super excited for Fuji right now and they may end up getting me to switch, but with the new lenses that are supposed to drop as well as the H2 and XT5...gonna hold off just a lil bit longer to see if there's other surprises on the near horizon.
I miss Fuji. I was so happy with the X-T4, but the overheating I was getting was just too much and almost cost me a couple projects where there was no time to wait for cool downs. Full panic mode. I'm so happy that camera companies are starting to make their cameras so much more robust internally and/or just adding fans. Its critical. Open gate is really the way to go. ALL companies should offer this. Let US choose, please.
Every camera should have a fan option now, it should be a requirement for serious video cameras.
@@stalman We agree. Mandatory fans✅. Open gate option✅. #TeamGinger 🤙
@@stalman please I will like to see a proper test of the Fujifilm xh2s F-log 2 ProRes vs the Canon C70 C-log 2 in the highest compressed quality (not raw). Hopefully with a neutral lens like a Sigma 18-35mm. Please 🙏🏽. Between lovely video and Colors
@@shridexdigi1982 it would be a fun test, but also consider that the Fuji is less than half the price and the C70 is a proper cinema camera. It would be closer than the price implies though, I’d assume!
If I were a video pro, as a Canon user I would look straight at the R5C. Why fiddle with the limitations of hybrids?
Love This Camera, Love shooting Weddings and Love shooting In Apple Prores Raw.
Just wondering if the Fuji good at dog autofocus like the Canon is
It looks like they have matched Canon for face tracking. Only problem I had was when it would hunt a few times in video mode when it would jump to other faces, but I didn't try playing with the AF settings yet. I know I can make it less aggressive
I think it’s good enough for animals. If you can’t take a good photo with this camera it is 100% on the user. Animal AF makes my life so much easier.
I am a videographer, what do you advise me to do because I have a problem with darkness? --a7R IV --- Fuji X-H2S -- Fuji X-H2
I’m really curious how much of this will trickle down into the future X-T5 and X-Pro4
Me too, or the X100 VI
Fuji's DR settings basically lower the ISO by 1 or 2 stops from what ISO you see on your screen, and then applies a tone-curve to raise the shadows by 1 or 2 stops.
This way it preserves the highlights.
So you do not actually get more dynamic range. And it does affect the RAW file insofar as that you actually have shot at a lower ISO, and thus (most likely) at an ISO that has greater dynamic range.
Since the Fuji sensor is mostly ISO-invariant, you do not get any extra noise in the shadows from them being raised by the tone curve.
Canon cameras have a similar setting but I forgot what it's called and my own Canon is on loan to my son so I can't easily check it out in the menus!
On the DR400. It’s a meta data tag to raise the “exposure” by two stops when developing the raw. So it doesn’t actually effect the RAW file.
It’s actually something that Sony do too!
That said I shoot my X100V in DR400 all the time because it shows me what my dynamic range is really gonna be in the final file. I also like the grain!
You say that like it's straight forward 😅 I have to do a lot more testing to figure this out, even with identical exposure settings raw files are holding on to more detail in a way that's really counter intuitive.
Most of the ways I'm interested in it are for baked in jpg/video settings
@@stalman for video it’s going to give you the same dynamic range as Flog1 (it raises the base ISO to 640 just like Flog1). I do this on my X100V with the eterna profile because I don’t love how Flog works with the 8 bit codec it has. That seems to give a cleaner look.
For stills it’s super strange though because even though I know it’s not technically got more dynamic range DR400 sort of makes my mid tones feel brighter even if I match exposure.
I didn’t worry to much on the X100V because I had the internal ND but I’m gonna have to do more testing on this.
My first XH2s got returned for some sensor issues but I’ll be sure to test it out when I get my replacement.
Also it’s. Oh straightforward at all and I wish Fuji would talk more about it!
This isn't quite right - the DR setting does indirectly affect the raw file by the fact that it's essentially underexposing the image. DR400 will essentially underexpose the image by 2 stops and then bring the image back up in processing (or in the case of the raw, meta tags will tell the processor to raise the exposure). So even though DR400 says that it's shooting at ISO640, it's actually shooting at 160 and exposing as if its at 640. DR200 is the same, but only 1 stop.
@@longhaulflyer well put 👍🏻 if you adjusted exposure in post on a shot with the same shutter speed and aperture but iso 160 at DR100 it would look similar to iso 640 at DR400 without exposure adjustments.
The meta data tag I was talking about was to compensate for the under exposure… but honestly you where way clearer than me here.
QUESTION for Tyler: Best "overall" camera - R6 or XH2S?
Tough call. The R6 really is a workhorse but the XH2S is smarter about many of it's features. If I could only have one right now, I'd take the Fuji
@@stalman - big thanks for the recommendation.
1:48 dope..
Great points about Fuji and canon color. I just HATE the fact that they cannot keep up with Sony for AF and as a casual user it’s so important. I’m leaning toward a6700 to compliment my Ricoh for video work and some photo would love a Fuji to do it all but alas
What is the main camera you are using?
I'm usually shooting with the Canon R5 and C70
@@stalman Thank you!!!!!
shotting in dr400 with 400 iso should be same with shotting in iso 100 with -2EV exposure,
If I am correct, it should be the camera turn up the shadow and reduce the highlight in body
It’s the same concept but will yield very different results depending on the tone mapping algorithm
”Film would never clip”
Uh… it would. Film (yes, including negative film) clips WAY easier than any modern digital camera.
Honestly, I think our obsession with avoiding clipping in unhealthy anyway and often leads to weird-looking images with a weird HDR look. Clipping is fine!
I think I phrased that poorly. Analog formats can lose all detail, but they wouldn’t have a white value of 100%.
@@stalman I still don't quite agree, but I can 100% agree that the transition to those full whites looks much better in negative film. There's some beautiful magic going on there for sure!
Either way, thanks for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it. And thanks for making the video.
Fuji Dynamic range is only for the JPG files and has no effect on the RAW files.
The DR 200 and 400 modes are VERY dangerous if you shoot Raw+Jpeg. Cuz what it does is almost like what you would do, shoot to protect the highlights and then up the shadows in post to match. But it does it automatically in the camera.
But it don't bring more DR to the raw at all, raizing the shadows is done by bumping it up with the ISO (that's why you need to up the ISO to use it). The consequence is that, in post, you can't up the shadows, because it was already upped by 1 or 2 stops. But you may not even really realise this when shooting.
If you shoot Jpegs only it's okay, but it kind of kill your DR, in the shadows, in the Raw images. When shooting Raw+Jpegs, I sometimes use DR 200 cuz, I may still have 1 stop of latitude but never DR 400...
It actually does bring more DR to the RAW files, there's a video on youtube somewhere where someone did a test. The ISO on fuji cameras doesn't really matter as it's an invariant ISO. If you shoot an image at 160 and push it up a few stops, it'll be exactly the same as if you shot it at the equivalent ISO needed for the same exposure in camera.
Nope. As Jay says, the DR mode effectively increases dynamic range. At ISO 640 and a DR setting of 100, data coming off the sensor is amplified by 2 stops at every pixel. At DR400, data coming off the sensor is selectively amplified depending on its brightness value. It boosts shadows more and highlights less, effectively tone mapping before the RAW data is written to the file. The penalty is that you get a level of noise in the shadows based on ISO 640, but this is no different that shooting at ISO 160 and boosting the shadows by two stops in post. There's no good reason I'm aware of to not use DR400 when shooting RAW. In certain circumstances, JPG files may come out looking a little flat, not unlike LOG video footage.
Fujifilm is very different that’s why I like them so much
I must say I dont get the whole thing about supposed size and weight on Fuji. I just checked the specs. Dimensions are basically identical. The R5 weighs 738g vs 660g for the Fuji. I just got my R7 and it feels like a quality toy in terms of size. It too is not really different to the latest FF bodies in a meaningful way. You can not make it smaller because people have hands of a given size. So what is the deal?
The only thing I don’t get (this goes to all brands), is why the hell do they put a record button separately from the shutter button…I know you set a camera to record when pressing the shutter button, but why all the hustle?
These cameras are hybrid, they are not videocameras, I’m fine with having one button to shoot… less buttons, less worries 🤔
It’s a shame that you got two of the oldest lenses in the Fuji lineup. The 16/1.4 is a great lens, but compared to their newest selection of lenses it really shows its age. Same goes for the 18-55.
As for the DR400 setting carrying over to RAW, I don’t remember the actual conclusion but Reggie Ballesteros did a test to find the answer a few years ago on his channel, it should be easy to find that video :)
They did offer the new ones but these two just happened to fit the way I was shooting on this trip. Which of the new ones do you love?
@@stalman the 33/1.4 has basically been glued to my camera since the day I got it, it is just perfect. I suspect that the 18/1.4 would be equally good, and a good substitute for the 16mm.
As for zooms, the 16-55/2.8 is my workhorse zoom, yes it’s quite a lot bigger and heavier than the 18-55 (there goes the weight argument in Fuji’s favour) but dear lord what a difference it makes to use a red badge zoom! The sharpness and focus accuracy are something else… that said I am using an X-T3 so maybe the gap in AF between older and newer lenses is smaller on the newer X-H2s
@@stalman There are also 3rd party lenses that work great with the new autofocus system like; Tamron 17-70, Viltrox 13, 24, 85mm, etc
33 1.4, 23 1.4 (WR LM) 18 1.4, 16-55 2.8, 50-140 2.8 those are the lenses that are best for video and IQ.
The 18-55 is awesome for both, but the 16-55 is just a notch above. Love that lens.
@@stalman The newer 18mm F1.4 is the sharpest lens from Fuji, with the 23mm F1.4 and 33mm F1.4 being close behind being based on the same formula. The 18 is also the fastest-focusing first party lens, the Viltrox 13mm F1.4 is very close though. The Fuji 90mm F2 is also excellent, and they're releasing a modernized 56mm this week.
Lol @ old stalman. The glow up is real.
OMG!!! What can you not do? Excellent videos, photography, podcasts, tutorials and now shooting with a fuji. You are chef's kiss my friend. I am raising my production value and techniques because of you and this channel. I know it's personal but would you share your video settings and color profile settings done in the DJI RS3video? You should make a pdf of how you use the X-H2s custom settings wink Wink.
Thanks so much! The settings I used are the ones in the middle of this video
Maui. Lovely place
I just use a 35mm f2, wonderful
I want to try the whole lens lineup now
6.2k 4fps lol...fuji looks pretty nice!
wdym fuji does not have top range products..they do the gfx line
Fuji users when you call the 16mm small:
😂
According to photonstophotos you'll lose 1 to 1 1/2 stops of DR when comparing DR100 vs DR400 on the RAW file.
Great review, as always.
I wonder if they fixed an issue with green channel that plagued previous Fuji cameras. Judging by your footage it looks good.
On my ageing xt2 yes the DR setting will affect your shots, so when you look through the view find the shots look exposed (jpeg preview) but take the raw file into lightroom the shots will be underexposed lightroom strip all the info away for some reason because yo can see it briefly before it dose on the import screen. I find that fuji sensors like to be treated the other way when shooting just raw and ill overexpose to saturate the senor and bring the highlights back ALSO if you shoot anything over 1600 and you over-expose, you can bring back way more highlights detail eg time square jumbo screens look white but you can bring them back to see their images but its a balancing act. For some reason, the camera works really well at 1600 and less noise is apparent then let's say at 6-800, I'm guessing there is dual gain read-out being used. This is my experience with the XT2 not the newer cameras so your mileage may vary.
HI gaza4543, that brief flicker you see when importing into Lightroom is lightroom regenerating a new jpg preview file, throwing away the one the fuji created, and then displaying the new one. Adobe does this with all manufacturers. And because no camera manufacturer releases the specifics of their RAW files, nor of their jpg conversions Adobe has to reverse engineer this for every different RAW file type. Thus, the Lightroom preview is always going to look slightly different than the initial preview image displayed.