Worth The Price? Creality Ender 3 S1 3d Printer Review
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
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In today's video we take a look at the brand new Creality Ender 3 S1. This is Creality's latest offering in their popular line of printers. This follows in the footsteps of the original Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2. There are some serious upgrades with the highlights being automatic bed leveling as well as a dual gear direct drive extruder. We will go over the printer's specs, unboxing and set up, how it prints, and I will give you my final thoughts on this machine.
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I agree with you on their product lineup. I was considering picking a creality printer up just to try one out, and after wasting a few hours trying to decide on one, I decided against it lol. they should slim their lineup down to like 4-6 models and focus on making those way better
Having gone the "Ender 3 Pro modding adventure route" I'm going to say I really regret not spending a bit more money and getting an S1 to start with. Modding ultimately costs more in money, and of course, consumes a LOT of time and material dialing them in - where the S1 delivers most of the mods you will NEED right out of the box. It's possible my experience with the E3P (and a Tevo Tornado) helped make my experience easier with the S1 (I got a Tenlog TL-D3 Pro IDEX up and printing great within an hour of unboxing), but really, it was just a great experience. As you yourself mentioned, there are still mods to be done to the S1 (I highly recommend the "pro" community firmware upgrade and a lightbar), and I'll likely upgrade the hotend before too long - but that's not a mod that will frustrate me like the mods I did on my E3P. It's a pretty terrible experience trying to mod a printer, only to find you are missing a critical component or need to print a tool (but your printer is disassembled) because Creality press-fit a gear on your extruder motor, for example... I also have a dual Z-axis mod for my E3P that went back in the box because of binding issues... so the Ender 3 S1 gets a big thumbs up from me for all levels of 3D Printing enthusiasts. Far fewer headaches with troublesome mods just to bring a printer up to decent and consistent performance.
This is kind of what I was waiting for these years. While the costs have been down for a while I was waiting for someone to develop both a lowish cost and require next to no setup. While I want a 3D printer to pursue a hobby I have no intention on turning 3D printing into the hobby. It is a tool and I don't want to have to work on it but work with it. I am currently debating if I want to just get the Ender 3 and tolerate some of the more manual aspects or if I want to just bypass that but pay a good bit more for the S1.
excellent review! 👏
I also think it should come with a full metal hotend, we need to get rid of those PTFEs near the high temps
Thanks Mars! Yeah I am really hoping that in the next year we get to a point that we just have all metal hotends as a standard. Stainless/bi-metal heatbreaks are so inexpensive that it should add much cost to the machine price.
Agreed. Using something that gives of cancer causing fumes at high temperatures is silly. Strictly PLA and SBS filaments on my printers. All print at 215/60.
Even the popular ABS gives of toxic fumes at high temperatures.
So, it isn't just for printing at higher temperatures, but a safety factor.
all 3d printers should come with a cheap 8 dollar peyt plate could be 1 dollar in bulk, fucking rediculous we have to use glue
Just got this for the kids to print models for £230 and cant wait to play with it more than them. I know this is the hobby I've been waiting for.
Great overview of the Ender 3 S1 Printer. I agree with you that Creality should have included the things found in the S1 Pro into their first model and just charged another $50-$70 for the only model. I did purchase the S1 several weeks back and have been very pleased with it’s performance and the quality of the prints I’ve gotten so far. I had originally purchased the CR-10 Smart, but had some serious bed leveling issues that couldn’t be resolved easily so I took it back. I order the CR-10 Smart Pro (with the camera) and got an email saying it would be shipped by the end of April so I picked up the S1 to get me started in 3D printing. Fortunately or Unfortunately the CR-10 Smart Pro arrived the day after I got the S1, but I was able to convince my wife that I could keep two printers busy and that has been the case since then. I really like the S1 and would highly recommend it as a first printer over the standard Ender 3 just for the upgrades you get that most people seem to add anyway.
How are you liking the CR10 smart pro? I have not used the original smart either but didnt hear great things about it. Glad to hear you that you are enjoying the S1 and that you were able to convince the wifey :)
@@ModBotArmy The amount of build space on the 10SP is great and I’ve made several large items with it that just don’t fit on the 3S1 build plate. The camera and ability to stop a print remotely is fantastic, which was one of the selling points in going with the SPro and I haven’t regretted it since it arrived just a few weeks back. I did have some issues where it wouldn’t feed some PC filament, but the 3S1 hand;ed it just fine. I also had an issue where the wood filament blocked the nozzle and I found the printer running patterns an inch above the model so I ended up trashing that nozzle. Also, the ability to have auto-leveling AND be able to tweak the settings is another major selling point that works awesome. I really like and use both printers and have used them a lot since they were assembled on the workbench.
I think Creality tends to try to flood the market with variations on their printers, and I personally don't understand it. (I mean they've been doing it and making money, so it seems to be working for them, but I am convinced it divides up their focus, away from QC, customer feedback, etc).
I'd rather they produce fewer product lines and focus that extra energy on things like QC or being able to source additional features at lower rates.
flood market with affordable ok-ish product, let influencers do all the critics and talks about it, make the market of it bigger, then raise the price and quality of the product.
i've seen these tactics in many hobbies way too many times.
You and me both. I would love for Creality to go the Prusa route in that they make their machines upgradable. It actually seems they are starting in a way to do some things like making their own ABL addons, bed upgrades, and even all metal heat breaks but imagine buying an original Ender 3 and then every couple of years they have an upgrade kit to take it to the next generation. I am sure it all comes down to money.
I have no idea what the inner workings are like but perhaps just shooting out a bunch of different machines and moving onto the next makes the most? I would think the negative feedback on QC would take its toll but they have made it this far.
A lot of Chinese companies do this.
Nice video 👍. Watched it after I bought my Ender 3 S1....
I own an original Ender 3, an Ender 3 Max, Biqu B1 and now the Ender 3 S1.
Out of the box it worked great.
But that 1st layer...
Permanent filament embedding...
So I have been fine tuning my Z offset. But happy with my purchase.
I need a printer that works.
No fiddling with bun files and all that. It must work out of the box, not be over complicated to work, and the warm tip settings and the cure profile had me getting the same results as the pre-sliced files on the 8GB memory card.
So a 9/10 printer for a straight user, not for mods.
theres a modified cooling fan duct on thingiverse that i feel works pretty well. Ive also discovered that if you position your model in such a way that the majority of the length of any overhang is in alignment with the y axis, that you can get some pretty crazy overhang angles successfully printed. Im waiting for availability to buy a sprite pro and swap out the stock sprite. I just wonder if Id be able to flash over the standard e3s1 to the e3s1 pro firmware for the increased temperature range, i sure hope so
I bought 2 Voxelab X2 and modify the Hot end with Gold coast Robotics all Metal hot end, harden steel nozzle, Ghub flexible metal plate, new RGB quiet fans and works Great been printing every Day for past 3 months all that for $80.
I flashed Klipper on my Ender 3 S1 last week and the performance is unreal. The stock firmware is okay, but the print speed is unacceptably slow and you get terrible ringing at higher speeds. With Klipper with pressure advance and input shaper tuned, I can print at 100mm/s and 3000mm/s^2 with incredible results. If you have a Raspberry pi and accelerometer I highly recommend you try it out.
Same here, with klipper the Ender 3 S1 work really well
What do you mean by accelerometer? Can you provide some more information on the klipper upgrade
I have the ender 3 S1 also and want to get the sonic pad but did you upgrade the hotend or extruder at all?
@@Sillysillylittleman I put the all metal hotend version of the sprite extruder on it after the stock one broke on me, but I haven’t changed any other hardware. These days I use it exclusively to print 85A TPU which has to print very slow anyway, so not really getting much out of Klipper anymore.
i just bought the pro sprite extruder for my base ender 3, upgraded the board, plate added tensioners from a dead v2. I basically have a poor mans s1, lacking a bed leveler, and runout sensor.
It was a journey to say the least, but for convience, the s1 pro would defintley be a good buy for a casual user if they want all the fancy stuff right out of the box.
The other reason to buy the S1, and that's why I got a S1 pro, is I already have a highly moded V2, and I picked it as my second printer.
I picked up an S1 as my first printer back in February, and I've honestly been quite happy with it. I've got no issues modding things, but in this case, I wanted something that could get up and running relatively expediently because I don't think my seven year old son would be as patient as I getting things spun up.
I will say that going with the mrisoc custom firmware (which you did show the github page for in the video) is an absolute no brainer. It allows you to go up to 9x9 for the autolevel mesh (although in my experience it failed after the 64th point, so I can only do 8x8), and has the bed tramming assistant. It's amazing how much the bed could be adjusted when you can actually look at the autolevel mesh.
As mentioned, though, kinda of a surprise the hotend isn't all metal. I've been getting by printing PETG (just watched your video on that today) for most of my prints at 235/65, but I definitely would like to make things all metal at some point for a buffer.
Something that is random and frustrating on mine is that it reboots sometimes if I click on a button on the controller. Currently trying to start a print and it keeps rebooting every time I click on the file. Other than that, this printer has been incredible.
@@BenWilson24 Well that's no good.
Have you investigated the E3V2/S1 Professional Firmware to see if that helps things?
@@JasonGillmanJr I have not. This has been pretty irritating though. I've been running several creality printers for a few years for my business and haven't had anything like this before. I'll have to try a firmware upgrade
@@JasonGillmanJr Just tried it with new firmware, new SD card. Same problem...
@@BenWilson24 Huh. Yeah, I got nothing then
You can buy a replacement all metal hotend directly from Creality that allows up to 300C temps.
Well ... if someone wants a really good equipped printer, then the S1 Pro (for half the price of an prebuild Prusa Mk3S+) is a solid choice!
With the Sonic Pad its even faster. It's also always nice to the option to upgrade the machine somehow if needed or wanted, even if it's just for fun!
Thats one thing the Bambu Lab P1P lacks.
Creality already sells 2 all metal throats for the Ender S1 a Titanium one and a bi-metal one.. both under $30. They also sell a hotend kit that come with the metal throat, a heatblock with cartridge thermistor, and a 50W heater. You can also buy the Sprite Pro Extruder by itself. So, lot's of options.
We just bought one, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.
I am with you on all metal hot ends. It is stupid to limit the first-time owner to 250 degrees C and a PTFE tube. I love to mod things but have not been able to get the Ender 3 V2 Neo to update software and I am using the SD card that came with the computer. So, I formatted the card with the 4096 byte allocation size, downloaded the software from Creality's website. I bought a Sprite to upgrade my Neo and could not get that software installed either. Maybe I have a bad SD card. The one out of my camera would not allow me to do the 4096 byte allocation so I went back to Creality's card with no luck. Great job on the video. I want the Sprite Pro and hope I do not have to buy the S1 Pro to get it.
I always find people who think this a great printer at not a bad price I’m just waiting for people to notice the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro/Plus/Max which starts at 230
Currently upgrading my ender 3 into an ender 3 s1
Great review as always man!
Thank you Jon :)
the hotend cooling fan is suuuuper loud, if anyone wishes to get their S1 to a more manageable noise level, I recommend you change it with a "
WINSINN 30mm Blower Fan 24V 3010 Dual Ball Bearing " (amazon has it), and make sure you also buy some "1.25mm JST 2 pin" connectors ( also amazon has them, but make sure the polarity of the plug is correct, as the ones I got had it reversed so I just soldered red from fan to black on connector and the other way around).
PS: if you are allergic to soldering, I recommand the white "heat shrink solder sleeves".
PS2: you also need a bit shorter screws for mounting the fans
haha I said that the machine was quiet. Compared to other machines I have tested over the months this is one of the more quiet machines by far. Motion I really cannot hear and the only sound I do get is the cooling fan but even that is much less than many other machines lately. That is cool to know though that you did find a quieter option that you can drop in.
Thanks for the heads up on the replacement fan. not a lot of info regarding what is worthwhile upgrades just yet for this lil machine.
I got a bimetal heat break from slice engineering and it’s a perfect fit.
Seriously? For the S1? Do you have a part number or link?
@@ModBotArmy search for copperhead heat break - standard - G2. Good stuff.
Yes The Creality ender3 S1i one of the best for your money.. More effective if you activate leveling corners and mesh bed leveling..
Is there a custom firmware out there that enables this already?
I love my ender 3 pro I'm a car guy so I absolutely love modifying things lol
What do you think about the longevity of that angled fan with it sucking up debris?
I just bought one for 260 out of rage due to my modded ender3 v1 being a turd. GLAD to hear she is gonna be a good one for me. Also i think that flash is still poppin off on amazon guys.
Good review and lots of good information and logic. I'm about ready to give up on Creality, as others have said they seem to be going in to many directions at once. I'm in the process of replacing 3 of my Ender 5 that I have modded extensively with another Rat Rig keeping only my Ender 5 plus. I'm going on my 4th year of 3D printing and to me this is a natural progression
What RatRig are you currently running? I have my eyes set towards a couple different Vorons but RatRigs are also really attractive to me as well. At 4 years in you are seasoned haha I can totally see you wanting to upgrade your modded machines.
@@ModBotArmy I have 400 cube with a glass plate and an OmniaDrop, and EZABL It has been my workhorse - it just prints. I love the tramming on the bed. The Rat Rig Kits are great - you can pick the parts you want and purchase your own to save shipping and taxes.
I backed the cr scan lizard project and they stopped responding about the status ever since they got sued. I think I'm done with creality. And I have 4 of their printers currently
Funny that David is my middle name lol
@@BenWilson24 I backed the CR-6 SE and when I received it, was disappointed in the lack of any upgrade path. I gave it to a neighbor. I'm building my second Rat Rig a 500mm cube. Will end up removing two of my Ender 5s to gain room. No more Creality for me.
Can it print a solid propeller for small, medium aircraft/drone toys in perfect dimensions and weights ?
The big advantage of Creality or Anycubic is their ease of setup.
A couple of months ago, I got into 3d printing by getting the ender 3 v2. I have had get success with a couple problems here or there but overall, great. But I have been using this printer all the time so I'm wanting to get a second to increase capacity, and Im seriously thinking about the ender 3 s1. It would be great for me, I'm not super comfortable modding something I rely on. So thank you, this video has helped me immensely in my decision.
Try the ANYCUBIC VYPER...omg this printer is so much NICER than the Ender stuff... I got the Ender 3V2 and love it.. took a minute to get the hang of leveling and solid prints...but the amount of money and time in upgrades are a little ridiculous. I learned alot.. but I don't want to have to rebuild a whole nother printer from the ground up like I did with the Ender. The Viper straight out-of-the-box takes 5 minutes to set up. It's got a touch screen. It's got dual Z axis and it's got a light plus so many other features!! Oh yea!! Out-of-the-box it's got a 16-point leveling system! You will never have to level your bed again and get perfect print every single freaking time! It does take about 3 or 4 minutes to level but once it's level you're good for usually a few weeks! I wanted the second printer cuz I'm always running my other one. I was going to get something bigger and that's the other thing this thing is massive as well! And it's only like $60 more than the Ender 3 version 2
@@Savage1776_ witch anycubic vyper do you have
I don't know, I think that buying the S1 and slapping a bimetal heatbreak and a PEI spring steel sheet would be much cheaper than buying the pro (touch screen is more of a luxury IMO, I really like it but it doesn't play nice with octoprint)
And even then, I think the Anycubic Vyper is a better buy (I've seen it at 450 or less when they have dicounts), lest the direct drive extruder
BTW my first and only printer is an Anet ET4 that I've heavily moded to make away with the closed source stuff, added a V6 clone with bimetal heatbreak and a magnetic bed with spring steel sheets; I've yet to add the linear rails I bought and the second z motor
I agree, there's nothing on the pro that I couldn't easily add myself. I hate spring steel sheets. Which already come on the S1 by the way. I'll be changing it to glass soon. I don't care about screens either.
The only thing I did to my E3V2 to get it to print as good as a prusa MK3 was all metal hotend, all metal extruder (not even direct drive) bedsprings and Jyers firmware
You don't really have to change anything on an S1. People just do because they don't know what they're doing or they think they need it because someone on UA-cam told them they needed it. Or they blame an issue with their prints on not having something. When in reality they could have just adjusted things a little. I got my S1 for $390. I don't think I'd pay $450 for it. I'd get another Sapphire sp5 before I did that. In fact, I'm considering selling both of my Enders and getting two more SP5's.
If I had a nickel for every time someone told me I needed something that I didn't, I'd be a rich man!
Amazon is selling the S1 for $365 right now. Sheet upgrade is $25, new all metal hotend from Creality is $30. So unless you care about LED lights (which you can also buy) it the touchscreen you can have the best bits of the Pro for substantially less
Great video i have a question i started with flashfordge finder 6 months ago and im getting great prints from it but want to do bigger stuff would this be a good upgrade ? Also is there a difference in the quality of prints ?
Hi i had same issues with my ender 3 pro printing at 0.30 mm of layer high. Thing is that the resolution multiplier for the z axis should be 0.04 because of the lead screw advance distance. so you have to do your ratf print either at 0.28 or 0.32. Give it a try ando you will see.
As always exelent video
Thanks. But what about two things respecting its maintainability and upgradeability: 1) what heatbreak it uses (some standadrd or something new - respecting replaceability after wearness from composites)? 2) What about stepper drivers and MCU - is all of them 2208 and what abou LA support? Does MCU have enough flash space to enable LA (it is 256kb or 512kb)?
I have a Ender 6 SE and it has been awesome 😊
I had to get rid of mine due to space limitations but yeah I really liked mine. Did you install the community firmware?
@@ModBotArmy
Not yet. Should I ?
Ill with my Vyper that I got. They are very similar printers and I got the vyper for 335 on newegg.
your amazon link isnt the ender 3 s1
you should review the S1 Pro
oh yeah man its so great that both enders i got a used and a brand new both couodnt print from sd lol and one kept freezing. my SUNLU s8pro with PET is WAAAAY BETTER man
I tried to upgrade my S1 and it bricked it. Had to ship it back because it was stuck on the splash screen....
There is no firmware currently to fix this issue. SO DO NOT UPGRADE
Ouch, where you upgraded the board firmware or the screens firmware? Have you reached out to Creality yet?
I feel like this is a wierd product to put out there when they are shipping the S1 Pro in may with a 300C hotend, magnetic PEI print surface, the Sprite Pro extruder and LED lights...
Most people only wanna print pla and maybe petg though, no need for a 300 extruder
If you thought that was weird, how about the recently announced S1 Plus? I’m curious on what Modbot thinks between the three. Maybe a talking head video based on the information that’s available and his own experiences and expertise? Might be good during this time when he’s prepping to make a move.
I bought the Ender 3 S1 for its out of the box performance, but as I was new to 3D printing I wanted simple. The S1 has proven to be reliable, but from recommendations I swapped to a glass bed and use an adhesive which makes a huge difference to print reliably sticking. I agree, the pro version of the Ender 3 S1 is a waste, swap out the heat break for an all metal version and you have the Pro equivalent for £15 delivered. I watched reviews of the touch screen and not hugely impressed, I would not spend the money there, but I am going to install insulation under the print bed, why isn’t this included on the S1 ?
First off. You don't need adhesive on glass. Neither my E3V2, S1 or Sapphire sp5 ever had any kind of substance put on the bed. Thousands of prints later. I simply clean it after every 20 prints with isopropyl. If you're having issues with your prints sticking to a glass bed your settings are wrong.
The reason there's no insulation is because the bed is small and it's not necessary.
You still seem pretty new. I don't know if you should be giving out advice yet.
@@dangerous8333usually you out on glue to get it off as far as i understand. No need to be aggressive
What petg filament is the black brackets and parts organizer. The black and green
The black is Printed Solid Jesse PET-G Sould black, the green is a PLA. It is Proto Pasta Cloverleaf Green.
@@ModBotArmy Just finished a roll of jesse soul black myself, love the surface finish of it :)
You can pick up the Sprite Pro extruder by itself on Ali for about $70, would make an interesting video seeing you try to turn some cheap printer into Ender 3 s1 Pro. You can still pick up an Aquila for $160 if you watch for a lightning deal. Toss a few extra cheaper/budget upgrades on it and see how close you can get and where you land on price. Then see what you think of it compared to this one.
Isn't the Aquila one of the printers that had main board issues?
@@bwselectronic There is a less desirable board for the Aquila, the h32 chip, but there was never anything wrong with it. It could just only use official firmware from Voxelab/Flashforge. It needed a non free/expensive compiler for the chip, but Voxelab bought that compiler for Alex. Alex is the guy who maintains the community firmware, and a beta has already been released. Not saying it wasnt a crappy move by Voxelab, I sure wouldnt want an h32 chip, but there was never anything wrong with the board or the stock firmware, it just wasnt as modifiable as some would like. It is also my understanding that after the community got upset they moved away from the h32 chip as quickly as they could. There is still h32 chips out there, but I think when they are gone they are gone for good.
Im also not saying to necessarily use the Aquila, a frame is mostly a frame when you are doing a highly modified printer. The point of this video is just an exercise to see where you land as far as features vs price in a more premium printer vs a highly modded printer. To see if you could replicate it in a diy solution but for cheaper.
I have seen Ender style frames from lesser known companies/less popular printers be clearanced out for super cheap multiple times. I personally bought a Anet A8 Plus from Walmart for about $80 some time ago, with a few mods that frame is now a workhorse for me. The Aquila simply came to mind because it was a frame anyone could get and follow along with the build, and it regularly goes on sale for $160.
Throwing klipper on an ender 3 pro is the best 150$ you can spend on 3D printing. 100$ ender 3 pro from microcenter, 25$ 3a+ and 20$ PSU for the pi
Spend an extra 16$ on an ADXL345 and the jumper cables you’ll need will make it even better and I’ve gotten a stock one up to 150mm/s with slight under extrusion
Mine is a POS. I also have a kingroon kp3s, a flsun q5 which runs circles around the S1 and is an absolute workhorse of a unit, a Sunlu S8 Pro and Qidi X-Plus and all my problems are the S1. My first and last creality product
you can even do tpu without much stringing.
Yeah, I need to dial in temps/speed for TPU on this. It did a great job of extruding it.
Great review as ALWAYS!!! Was shocked by the price for the pro model and was also perplexed by Creality's decision to make two versions of a printer that the pro is clearly the way to go. But 5 bills is a bit much. I'll stick to my modded Ender 3 pro :)
Thank you :)! Yeah I know right now everything is more expensive and I am not wanting to use that as an excuse for them since the og Ender 3 has not really gone up in price. I am hoping that it ends up going down in price. Absolutely if you have already modded an Ender 3 it is going to be as capable if not more.
Adding up the worthwhile mods that the new one has... It's almost double the cost of starting with a v1 pro and upgrading. Pei bed, all metal hotend, dual z, a few things you can print and a probe. I'm also assuming ignoring the touchscreen and running Klipper. At $500 I would consider get a Voron 0.1 kit plus printed parts for a bit more instead. (Unless someone knows they are going to need to print larger things anyway, or doesn't have the skill to assemble one.)
Interesting. The "full metal" hot end just appears to be a titanium Kraken heat break (which fits fine in all stock Creality hot ends).
As a factory solution, the direct drive appears acceptable, but you can certainly do much better buying your own parts. Creality direct drives are all, large, clunky and overly heavy as they insist on using full size steppers and extruders. One thing I'd be really interested to see is if they bothered to upgrade to a cartridge style thermistor, as the bead type they usually use have PTFE coated cables.
This direct drive is pretty nice. It is one of the nicer or maybe nicest I have seen on a budget printer. I do agree though something like an LGX or Hemera I am sure is better. I may have to rip it open to check the thermistor type. I cannot remember.
@@ModBotArmy I saw a good view of the thermistor in another video. Maybe Chep?
It is the bead type with PTFE lined cables.
My heavily modified Ender3 V2 works beautifully, but my next printer must have dual extruders and a heated enclosure.
Do you have your eyes set on a specific machine?
@@ModBotArmy Not yet. I'll probably have to wait a while. I may design my own.
I just ordered the S1, it's on route. It's my first 3D printer. Should I have just paid the extra $150CAD for the pro? How hard would it be to upgrade to all metal one day?
Does the Jyers Custom Firmware actually already exist for the
Ender 3 S1 ❓
And if so where 👀 ❓
I would be very grateful for a tip... 🙂👋🏼
im soooo confused with the bed leveling , i do the paper test for the z offset but yet when the printer starts printing the skirt it comes in 3 lines and not smoothly combined , what to do ?
also i still dont get the auto bed leveling it seems useless
It works fine.. you are just not doing it right.
I love the idea of the ender 3S pro. While I enjoy wrenching on my ender 3 pro, I like printing with it better. 5 bills is a bit much for me right now. I'll do the upgrades to my pro for now....maybe in the future though! I have the micro swiss hot end, want to get the direct drive and a glass bed for sure.
I love Creality printers but I feel this is a little to late for me as I have already committed to purchasing the Prusa Xl. I also agree with you about the S1 should be the S1 Pro
Bit much to compare it to the XL. I rather buy this then the MK3+ though. As a in-between printer for the next 2 years and then i will see if i need a Prusa and then the XL and mk4 will be available
I ordered the XL as well. I think majorly different calibers of printers though. How many tool heads are you planning on getting?
I bought an MK3S+ last November and have been pretty damn impressed. The specs are nothing too special but the damn thing just works. I hit print and the part prints well. Alot of it is in how refined the firmware is for it. I ended up having a bad bearing on the one I bought after a week or two and they had a full set of new smooth rods and bearing to me within 3 days. I plan on making a video covering my experience.
1:20 and about 5 secs after, it sounds like you were going to say "but more importantly (then something important)". pls what was it.
I will probably buy the s1 pro because i got a promo. I would not mind modding or replacing parts in any case, just with this promo it is a good value and i guess i can mod it later on, when next gen mods have been marketed. Mabye linear rails, who knows? There will allways be something "next".
Lastly i have sub and liked this video.
Please review the S1 pro
this is the first time I have ever heard of that cat print
Think it’s possible to retrofit the sprite hot end to a Ender 5?
Yeah, it's kind of silly. They should have just put out the S1 Pro. I would imagine it would make their life a bit easier from a manufacturing stand point.
Is there a reason the S1 is $339 on the link you have in description, vs $379 on the actual site?
280 on amazon
This is what I wished the ender 3 V2 was. This machine is already pretty much decked out.
Yeah the V2 was almost just a refresh IMO of the E3 this printer feels more like their next gen.
Yh, unfortunately for now I'm still on the E3V2 but I am planning on buying gradual upgrades overtime.
Yeah I bought my e3 v2 in December and saw this on creality's website, but I had the itch and needed a printer now! I would have bought the s1 if it was available, I bought a large majority of these upgrades for my e3 including a direct drive kit that isn't installed. I would have saved money I'm pretty sure heh
@@marijuanas Yeah, tbh the only upgrade I really care about is probably auto bed leveling, the others I'm not too bothered about. I've already upgraded the bed springs but my printer has a warped bed so a bl touch or cr touch would be ideal.
@@marijuanas Direct drive is completely unnecessary on an E3v2.
I only have an all metal extruder and all metal hotend and print everything from TPU to abs/asa at 100 mm/s.
What’s ur support settings
How would you compare it to the B1 or Neptune 2s?
I have an artillerx1. Right now but if I were to replace it which machine would you recommend similar to that prusa? Or something else?
Have anyone released an all metal upgrade kit to the sprite extruder?
My first Ender 3 s1 broke after 6 weeks, thanks to Amazon they sent me a new one. So far no issues.👍
You should share with everyone how it broke.
That would be helpful.
As of right now your comment is just a review of Amazons return policy.
I’m mod my Ender 1 right now
What are you modding on it?
Ender 3 S1 "Pro" with the stated upgrades will be twice as better than the S1. So if you can wait a month or two, do so that you won't regret the decision later.
I wouldnt say twice as better. It has a touch screen, PEI, and all metal heat break.
the only point of geting ender3 is to mod is
I get 2 ender 3 pro 2 weeks ago (for 220$) just to mod (one is going to be switchwire and one TBD) its the fun of base H/W and mod if I was looking for working out of the box printer I will get some of the 700~1500$ ones
There are quite a few people that get into 3d printing with an Ender 3 with no intent to mod. It is great though that if you do stick with it there are so many directions you can go thanks to the massive user base/community.
I'd rather build a Voron Trident than bother building a switchwire...
Expensive printers need to be tinkered with as well. In many cases they also need upgrades.
You're not getting a better printer necessarily by spending $800 on it, they're just overpriced now compared to the options we have.
Time for the older companies to bring their prices down because they're not the only game in town anymore.
@@ModBotArmy Agree. I found that my E3V2 and S1 really didn't need any mods. With a little ingenuity and technical know how most of these things can be dialed in in their stock form to produce really good prints.
Any mods I did are mainly for convenience.
@@dangerous8333 so yes and no
I get 2.4 and its in the same cost as Trident (800$ tag) my build for switchwire will be sub 500 (120$ for the prod + 50$ asteners Screws Nuts Full Kit +80$ Linear Rail +40$ belt rest is parts I get at home like orange pi 0 and hotend )
the "older companies" price is the price of parts + price of support did you ever see bend bed on Ultimaker? its the cost of QA so not a lot of "meat" in the printer (if you look at ultimaker you can add the cost of cura too as far as I know its 10~15 dev guys )
Ok so my question is, I can get the Ender 3 S1 for $200 or I can get the S1 Pro for $280. This would be my first printer, and having looked at all the options have been confusing.
I'd like an all metal hotend, and dont mind upgrading the S1. But, for $80 is it worth just to buy the S1 Pro? Having the light woukd be nice too but not necessary.
I'd truly appreciate anyones feedback. Thank you
were can you get the S1 Pro for $280?
@@diamondly6250 Microcenter had them on sale. They still might be on sale now.
Great video, thanks. Have you heard of a marketing called, line extension? This is used in car industry, where a model would run for 5 years or so, with each year an increment on features, until the next model arrives. Seems like there is a marketing person behind there iterations. Hot end ( I have the 3 S1), if I change out the heartbreak with an all metal one, do I also have to change out the heater cartridge, and thermistor( thermocouple)? I would want to print ASA, ABS and the like, would like to get the temp up to about 250 degrees C. Any help is appreciated, thanks
I have not heard of line extension but that is very interesting. Someone told me there is a heatbreak from Slice engineering that you can use to convert this S1 hotend to all metal. I have not been able to get the specific model but Creality also has a bimetal upgrade for $20 listed for this. I placed an order and if/when it comes in will make a video.
great, honest review. unfortunately mine is still no nearer to being fixed.
What's wrong with it?
I have two with zero issues.
@@dangerous8333 I thought I had a blockage so stripped it all down and prints ok for a minute or two then it’s back to poor quality. I think it may be the stepper motor. Going to strip it all down again and start again
@@dangerous8333 before that issue. It printed great for 10 weeks
Sorry to hear that. Did you end up reaching out to them? If so have they been helpful?
What should I choose between Ender 3v2 neo and Ender s1.
Which is better to have if yo can't upgrade. The metal thing neo has, or the dual drive on s1 but with plastic part on extruder?
I have both… the Ender 3 s1 with a sonic pad or the professional firmware upgrade
@@hateforall4012 I keep thinking s1 must be better. Because it is one upgrade away from printing high temp filament. Whereas neo is like 5 upgrades away from it
@@thesouthwestern just the direct drive alone makes it easier to use.
@@hateforall4012 Decided to just go with the pro. Because all upgrades here is hard to find and more expensive
I'm hanging in there for the "Ender 3 S1 Plus Pro": a large printing area with a 300 degree hot end and (ideally) 110 degree bed. You can upgrade the hot end but the existing firmware won't let it go above 265 or something like that.
I got the ANYCUBIC VYPER and it BLOWS this printer away!! I hate to say it because I started out on Ender stuff...but damn!!
The Vyper is a solid machine. I prefer direct drive if I have a choice but the machine itself is definitely impressive.
For me the Ender 3 S1 is like a more expensive Artillery Genius Pro: it has auto bed leveling, non-all-metal direct drive, dual Z & 32 bit board. The main difference is the fact the Artillery Genius Pro costs about $340 max (but you can get it for 300 or less easily), it has mains voltage for the bed (making it heat up realy fast) and it has a glass bed & touch screen.
I'm not sure why I'd buy this printer - the quality seems good but if you consider you can't print all materials that benefit from direct drive (fan too weak, not all metal) ... . The Genius Pro has a similar issue but its fan is really powerful so at least it doesn't suffer from that problem.
I got my S1 for $390. I don't know if I would pay $450 for it which I've seen it go up to. The Artillery printers look nice.
I think I went with Creality because they're the only ones really innovating amongst the cheap printer companies. I like to support companies that innovate, and I liked my E3V2 so much. However I just picked up a Sapphire SP5. I'm still running it through its paces but if it holds up and shows to be reliable I'm selling both my Enders and getting two more SP5's. The Sapphire had a bumpy start but they pretty much fixed all the issues with that machine.
MEH, if it’s cheaper I’ll buy it otherwise I’m fine with my awesome ender 3 v2, good old glass plates, never saw the necessity of the metal magnetic beds. Not enough difference to make me upgrade, maybe wait a few generations before I buy again. Don’t mod for mods sake, unless I have a pragmatic reason for the upgrade modifications.
Have you used a flexplate? I was late to the flexplate party. I started printing in 2014 and didnt try one until 2014 thinking glass works fine and felt it was over rated. After I got one, it changed my mind completely. Helped keep my bed level, no more waiting for parts to cool, and just made my workflow nicer. Still not saying it is a must, but it is pretty damn sweet.
@@ModBotArmy I have had a flex plate, but prefer the glass plate and the way print comes off when there done. I have had them fail on me as well, so I preferer the glass plate to a magnetic steel one.
The real question is, did they connect the motherboard fan to the cooling fan like they did with the V2 so you can roast your board when printing ABS. (thankfully you can change this, just like their garbage firmware and their over-tuned steppers) I also can't believe the case underneath STILL doesn't have slots that mirror the PSU. While I agree the Ender3 series are great printers for the price. Creality is a terrible company with awful R&D and Q&A. The S1pro does actually seem like a upgrade to the series, and like you said if it was just the S1 and at the same price, then I think they would have an argument on why people should buy it
The popularity of the Enders speaks for itself. Even amongst people like CHEP and other people that know what they're doing. I read all kinds of post from noobs complaining about this or that. They just lack the technical skills. I didn't run into any of those problems and if I did the fix was so easy. I mean 5 minutes.
I don't care about the firmware. As somebody who's been in IT for 25 years now third parties always make better firmware anyway. As long as it's open source I'm happy.
I spend hours every month keeping my machinery going in my metal fabrication shop so having to fix the random issue with a 3D printer that I got for dirt cheap to begin with is not an issue for me. I'm actually fine with how these printers come from the factory. If it keeps it cheaper that's a benefit for me since I can usually fix things for cheaper than the company would.
I think every Chinese printer brand needs to be tinkered with. That's the trade-off for getting such a cheap machine to begin with. Hell, even a prusa has to be tinkered with.
@@dangerous8333 The Ender 3 is cheap because it has rollers, a single z axis, plastic single gear extruder, cheap build plate, cheap steppers, non-consistent bed heating, and doesn't use a all metal hot-end. Not because they connected the MB fan to the cooling fan. But hey, you want to take a saw-saw to your Ender7 so you can tell your one friend that you modded it to see the first layer go down and not stick to the build plate, then go ahead. Weird ass logic since things like the Voron exist. No one gives af if you want to support a trash company though. I also said the Ender3 is a great printer for the price, especially if all you print is PLA. I find that narcissistic douchebags only like to talk about themselves while adding nothing to the conversation. But go off on how people are just noobs and you know-it-alls can fix all of their poor design choices in 5 min. They should spend the 5 min fixing it themselves since its so easy
I've had issues with the s1. The print quality was meh. I got way too much ringing and ghosting and i assume thats from their sprite extruder. I like the anycubic vyper even more though and have never had an issue with that machine.
Interesting, what slicer are you using? I havent noticed the ringing/ghosting at least not on the stock profile speeds. I could see pushing it causing that over the Vyper with the Vyper having a lighter bowden extruder setup.
@@ModBotArmy I use cura and print at 60mm/s on it and have even slowed the speeds to 30mm/s and it just has issues. I returned it and had the same issues. I tried their slicer as well and even made a custom profile in s3d and nothing seemed to work. I just accepted it since it prints accurately and I print a lot of functional stuff so appearance isn't as important.
@@minnow11 i suggest calibrating acceleration control and jerk. instead of your mm/s if you havent calibrated that you are likely not even reaching 60mm/s
No, it's you.
Why is it that in the 3D printing community it seems that no one ever blames their own technical skills, they always blame the machine.
I don't see that in metal fabrication, woodworking or anything else.
I have calibrated the machine. All my machines are calibrated. I have 23 machines with a few specialized for specific needs. The s1 I have tuned and printing well. The prints are just ugly but accurate especially for the price of the machine. Creality is a China based company so there is bound to be QC issues.
with how tech has come along in the last few years in the 3D printing maker space, honestly, 'ptfe lined' is obsolete... there is no benefit to it really over a properly tuned, tested, designed, all metal hotend. And for the $110 price tag of the extruder/hotend alone - it's right up there with the other options out for all metal hot ends, costing anywhere from $25 to $150 (not including extruder/motor in some cases)
I just can't see the price being worth it for this. $100 cheaper, and sure, this would be a no brainer, but the price at current point isn't that fantastic - you compared other Ender models for your upgrade path, but there are other Printers in general around the same price range, that don't require 'upgrades' that are actually "better" and more trusted. I mean, $415 or so price range is in the market of used Prusa's, and 'a little more' goes a long way. This product needed to be closer to the $300 range, maybe starting at $350 and going on sale for $300 at some points to really be "buy this now, it is fantastic"
It depends on where you are in the world. My ender 3 V2 costed about $400, and I easily spent another $300 on mods. I can get the S1 for about $600 here, and it has more features than my moded V2
oooh, sounds like you got suckered into buying a Prusa.
best printer i ever owned prints perfect pricy but worth it dont buy a prusa that guy ripps you off
Hey @ Modbot I just recently got into 3d printing and really didn't know what to expect, so I went with the voxelab Aquila since it has similar specs as an ender 3. Although I was unsuccessful in my attempt to print, I know it was because I didn't have the correct setting for my printer. Now that I've been doing some more research I see that a lot of people go with the ender 3 but there are some other brands that seem like they offer a Lil more, like the sunlu terminator, or the v400, or even the voron 2.4, but I think that would be too complicated of a build for me, would you have any advice on what you look for to get set up? Thanks
I own the Aquila and it prints great. Make sure your glass bed is cleaned with soap and water, level it and you should be getting good prints.
Just a bit longer then necessary otherwise very good
Its a constant balancing act. :)
They’re taking a page from the iPhone making the basic version than the pro to make more money come on man you know that.
Let me help you understand why it costs so much. Company profits!
There are various technologies for 3D printing metals, such as electron beam melting (EBM), direct metal laser sintering (DMLS), and selective laser melting (SLM). These technologies vary in how they employ heat to melt and fuse the metal powder.
Compared to conventional manufacturing techniques, the metal 3D printer has many benefits. It permits the creation of specialized and low-volume parts and simplifies building complex geometries and detailed designs. By utilizing only the appropriate material, metal 3D printing eliminates waste and can lead to more effective use of resources and energy.
us.snapmaker.com/
Sorry to say that you talk too much.
Still shipping these ridiculous adjustable build plates.
cr touch is a ripoff of the patented BLTouch.
It's actually more accurate.
That Creality S1 video is UBER CHEESY! with terrible acting, why they did not video someones real reactions to the machine with a back story explaining the specs and who they are going to present the machine to is beyond me, it would have been much better than the drivel they did release
lmao OMG right? When I was grabbing the screen recording I was just thinking WTF is this? lol I may not be an actor but even I could have made it less cheesy.
Totally, would have been cool for them to have some sort of technical case study over that.
@@ModBotArmy Ithought long and hard about this after commenting and I think this kind of acting is endemic in Chinese television and Indian television although Indian TV is slowly changing, so I cant blame Creality 100% but then again they are introducing their product to a world audience, I think they need international eyes looking over things like this, The S1 and S1 Pro are IMO the second time Creality has got it right and I hope they continue to, I think previous failures after the Cr10 , Ender 2 and 3 were down to the Marketing suits being given too much power in R&D and changing designs for cheaper parts and cutting QC even Naomi Wu couldnt convince them and had to part company with them, If Creality is to succeed in the future some major changes are needed
Almost stopped watching when you said mac, get a fucking computer.