Creality S1 Plus Has all the right features - Let's compare it to PRUSA I3
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- Опубліковано 29 лис 2022
- The new printer from Creality comes with a 300mm x 300mm x 300mm print volume, it assembles in 30 minutes, has Firmware Bed Leveling with a touch sensor, filament runout detection and it's easy to use. Best of all it works right out of the box. No upgrades or modifications needed. To everyone who thinks Prusa is still dominant: Have you see what Creality is doing?
Check out my detailed review of the Prusa I3 Mk3s: • Why Does Nobody Speak ...
Mihai Designs Extrusion Explanation: • What I've learned abou... - Наука та технологія
My work just got a bunch of S1PLUSs and they're quite impressive. That said, I did notice that there is another PTFE tube going down into the hotend and butting up against the nozzle.
Yeah. I got that detail wrong. Thank you for the correction. Creality does sell an all-metal version if you want to print high temperature plastics. PTFE lined hotends are quite good up to 260°C. It's Teflon like your non-stick frying pan. Molten plastic doesn't stick so you get fewer nozzle jams. All metal need to be made with high quality standards. Polished bore so that there isn't texture for molten filament to stick to it. Also high temperature non-stick coatings are beneficial. This is a lot more expensive and doesn't provide benefit if you are only going to print with PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG.
0:26 I'm still using an iPhone 6 because I recently broke my other phone. It gets the job done!
Creality has a legit licence for trinamic drivers. Trinamic even has the Creality logo on their offical website.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the bambu lab printers!
I have the S1 Plus. Combined it with the Creality Sonic Pad for Klipper. Absolutely a beast now. I did not like the the TouchPad that came with printer layout terrible. Klipper pad and using web interface is much better. Great video
agree, printing from cure is VERY convenient. it made me go back and add octoprint to my prusas haha
My GF has an iPhone 8. Works pretty well still.
Yes, and the Prusa I3 Mk.3 "works pretty well still." I should have said in the video "Who do you know is still buying an iPhone 8 in 2022" If anyone already has a Prusa I3 Mk.3 keep using it until it no longer works and you can't fix it. It prints just fine. No need to replace it, but for goodness sake don't recommend that anyone purchase a new one when there are now options like the Creality available.
@Design Prototype Test this should be pinned as the top comment should shut up a lot of the fan boys you are unbiased in this review and this comment hits it on the nail if you have a MK3 great glad you're happy with it but don't recommend it in todays market as there is now cheaper and better alternatives.
@@DesignPrototypeTest that's definitely a fair distinction between continue to use vs buy new now at full original MSRP.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I absolutely 100% agree with this type of advice. Prusa's are great. I love mine (and my Ender pro and e3d bigbox), but would I buy the same Prusa today at the same price (or more) with no improvement over my 3+ year old original, when there are so many other as good/better and cheaper alternatives? No.
@@DesignPrototypeTest In all your insanity, double quotes that cannot be argued with.
Ps. Add thank you and memberships
Good to see you making videos still.
The standard S1 is my first printer and it took me just over an hour set up and start first print. I was being extra careful to not mess anything up, so I see how it could be faster.
I'm loving my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I installed a 3rd party firmware called "professional firmware" which is way better than the stock. I had to downgrade the touchscreen to the Ender 3 V2 screen which uses a wheel. Nathan Builds Robots has a modder board you should look at. I bought a second Sprite assembly for swapping out nozzles. I have plans
I've owned a mk3 from preorder and just got a mk3s+ and have thousands of hours between them. bone stock. I recently got an ender 3 s1 pro, which is one model up from the one you have, and I even added sonic pad (runs klipper), got input shaping and pressure advance tuned, and I still disagree with virtually everything you said. I don't remember the last failed print I had on the prusas. my ender has had many. the pros: it's way more quiet than my bambu carbon x1, but a hair louder (thanks to fans) than my prusas. (not sure if pro differs much from the plus). the motion system is more quiet thanks to the wheels on gantry motion system, but the prusa comes with noctua for the heat brake, so fan-wise, it wins. print quality-wise, stock for stock the ender s1 pro wins slightly, but with a caveat. smooth surfaces looked better, like the bow of benchy, but considering default speeds are like less than half of the prusas, I'd hope so. the actual caveat is that when you print a calibration cube, you see it has bulging edges and really badly needs pressure advance. klipper fixed that, but after adding klipper it loses the price advantage. (if you got at full price like I did, I think it was about $550 + $160 for klipper, so $710). out of the box, with bulging corners like that, it's not a great choice for practical parts with engineering tolerances for fit. the prusa's calibration cube out of the box is a thing of beauty. also, the prusa starts printing so much faster. the bed leveling is way better with pinda. the ender is still faster than my bambu at bed leveling, but the prusa smokes it. with the prusas, I do what most prusa owners do. start a print, and after the first layer, use the menu to crank speed to 200%. it just works and gets very respectable print times with virtually no difference in quality. doing this, it absolutely runs circles around the ender. even after klipper I can't get it to beat the stock prusa. I can get faster prints out of it but the print quality suffers greatly. the prusa's name brand parts (especially the hot end) just perform better at speed than the enders. I imagine the pro does even better as I think I remember the plus and base s1 don't get the all metal sprite extruder like my pro variant.
it was worth getting and tinkering with, but it just isn't reliable enough to replace one of my prusas. talk to anyone who went the other way around, from an ender to a prusa, and you'll hear their praises about getting fed up with constantly tinkering with the printers for various failure reasons, then finally just getting a printer that works every time with no drama with the prusa.
also slightly unrelated, but I've had my carbon x1 with AMS for a few weeks now and I still haven't sold my prusas for several reasons. it's slightly tempting, as when it DOES print right, it prints VERY quickly with VERY solid quality. the prusa's quality benchy still beats both the carbon x1 and ender 3 s1 (even on klipper), but the carbon x1 can get VERY close while printing at 2-4x the speed of the prusa, so it gets a pass. the $700 p1p is tempting as I don't even use the lidar now, but being forced to have a lower quality cameras kind of sucks, so who knows. they're so loud that I think for that reason alone, I won't sell both prusas. maybe one of them, but for now, at least one will stay as my printer when I need to be near the printers.
1) You sure are throwing around a lot of claims. My cousin's third uncle says he saw your office and you don't have a Ender 3 S1 or a Bambu Labs printer to actually compare to your Prusa.
2) Why are you conflating things by bringing in the sonic pad? You don't need it. I showed the two printers out of the box. The Creality printed better even without the sonic pad.
3) Now you are just listing small defects and lots of other confusing variables in an effort to make the Prusa sound superior. What you are doing is called bullsh!tt!ng.
4) You said "talk to anyone who went the other way around, from an ender to a prusa" those guys don't exist. That's why I have a job on UA-cam. I am the guy who has both and I disagree with your assessment.
What kind of guy buys all these printers like you say you have? Are you another UA-camr who gets sent these things for free. I know SERIOUS 3D printer hobbyists and they are all selling their Prusas to buy the Bambu Labs printer. See, they don't actually make money from their print farm attempts so they can't justify purchasing all these printers. How does your wife feel about all this wasted money you spend? Your entire comment sounds like a guy who works in the Prusa marketing department who is trying desperately to put out every fire at once. You are trying to use this single comment to disparage all possible competitors to the Prusa. The Bambu Labs printer and the Creality have almost nothing in common EXCEPT that they are both threats to Prusa sales. Why you would see it necessary to disparage both...you are sus.
@@DesignPrototypeTest This dude is on something, The only thing a prusa has in common with a Bambulab is that that use electricity to run. There is no comparison, for the price The X1 stomps the prusa.
@@No0o0o0o0o0 nah x1 stomps in terms of speed. Reliability not so much. I have both a prusa, an x1 and a fully tuned voron trident and In terms of quality the x1 is a bit behind the prusa and the voron is miles ahead. Speed wise voron crushes the bambu but the bambu decimates the prusa. Reliability, the prusa blows both out of the water and the voron is noticeably more reliable than the x1. Longevity wise, idk bout the voron and x1 but the prusa has 25000 hours on it
I'm still running my Ender 3 v2. I have mods like the Micro Swiss direct drive kit with a BL touch, although I'm still running the stock hot end and heat sink with a Slice Engineering heat break, a Red Squirrel fan shroud with a 40x40x20 cooling fan and a 5015 blower for the part cooing. 80mm fans cooling the mainboard and power supply. I put silicone springs on the bed adjusters and a heat shield on the bottom of the bed. I never have to manually level the bed. Printed a handle for the bed and extended feet to raise it up to get more air to the electronics. I extended it to 400mm on the Z with dual motors and screws. I'm running the Jyers UI firmware on the mainboard and display. The printer is almost completely silent. The print quality is just as good as a Prusa, the print area is larger and I have less than $400 invested with all the mods.
Great review. Thank you.
With the release of the sv06 I am lost why people still look at prusa. An amazing clone for under 300
name brand parts and top quality service. there's a reason why every print farm uses prusas. sure, they can get 2-3x more prints from creality or sovol, but they end up spending way more time tweaking and fixing and repairing and replacing. there are several UA-cam videos where people tired other brands and switched to prusa and they praise the hell out of it as they went from constant issues to a whole farm that just hums along. the original i3 design came out just about 11 years ago. it has received very subtle and slow updates, but to the places where it counts, and that's what has gotten it to be so polished. and considering they print their printers from their own print arm, of their own printers, they get thousands of personal testing hours to help them identify weak points and such. you can tell, as the printer looks basic, but the performance and reliability you get out of it is super impressive. also, even if you can get a printer that performs 90% as well for cheaper, another thing people forget about is noise. the prusa is VERY quiet, even without using silent mode. it comes with real Japanese linear bearings and a name brand noctua fan. and the silent stepper drivers. in silent mode, it's so quiet it's crazy.
I did preorder the sv06, as I'm just curious and couldn't resist for the Black Friday pre order price of $230
and for the record, I have an ender s1 pro with sonic pad (klipper), and a bambu carbon x1 with AMS. both are cool in their own ways, but haven't provoked me to sell my prusas yet. the bambu comes close, but it's super loud, stilll isn't as reliable, and quality lacks behind the prusa a tiny bit, but that doesn't matter when you need the speed, as the quality is very close.
Because you're paying for more than just the printer. You're paying for the support which is some of the best in the consumer printing industry, you're paying for much higher quality parts, you're paying for continued research and development, you're paying for the printables website to remain ad free and you're paying for a company to pay their employees a living wage.
@@101stsurvivor exactly
The sv06 is a hot pile of garbage
I have a nearly original CR10, the first one that came out. I have just added during time an all metal hot-end and auto bed leveling, then I moved to klipper (with an old RPI I had around) and since I got rid of the spring the quality became amazing, I am so happy that I hope it will last for ever.
during all these years I found that I used the 30x30 bed 10% of the time, but it helped me a lot to have such a larger bed. I think that 2525cm bed is too small, at least for me, I still think that the sweet spot is 30x30.
another thing I doon't get is why do they still use springs when they have auto bed leveling... I got a huge improvement in quality when I got rid of them...
my 2 cents....
What kind of bed leveling you have in your CR-10? There is no need for replacing mainboard?
@@ArtillaVeq no, no need to replace mainboard. I have added bl-touch because I wanted to get rid of the knobs that are under the bed. getting rid of the knobs and springs is where you get improved quality the most.
I had the i3 mk3s+ and bought an Ender 3 S1 Pro. I then bought another. The S1 is my printer of choice and I'll keep buying more of them. It's just better all around.
Still using the Ender 3 Pro with genuine BLTouch, Duet 2 FW for fear of messing with success. I finally changed to a Mosquito all metal hot end but kept the stock heater block so as to continue using your Air duct, Nice upgrade. A whambam3d flex bed covered in PEX, which works w/ petg, pla, abs, LW-pla. For flexible filament I still use the proprietary Cetus3D Mk2 that still prints beautifully onto blue tape. I'm done with CUrA and only held on because printing single layer rc planes with LWPLA dictated using CURA settings uo to now. Started with PrusaSlicer which seems to work well on stock ender settings, but will now try SuperSlicer. Enjoy your candid reviews and tolerated the intro with minimal cringe hehee.
I purchased the S1 Plus instead of springing for a Prusa. After weeks of calibration tests and tweaking settings I found that I was outside of the timeframe I had to return it. I just assembled my Prusa last weekend and haven't touched the S1 since. Maybe I'm just unlucky and got a crap one but the Prusa has surpassed my expectations.
The Prusa is a workhorse, reliable and has been refined for years. These other brands start from scratch every time and want you to keep buying a new model instead of upgrading what you have.
Wanna sell it? Lol
family bought a Printer Ender 3 S1 Pro. ( VERY NICE machine! )
they are beginners, but they are very happy with it.
they manage pretty well for a bunch of newcomers to 3D printing.
I myself have 2 self-build Prusa i3 (not a buy Prusa) but really self-build*DIY* with M5 Z axis threads. (still works fine!)
Healthy and Friendly Greetings from the Netherlands!
Rob
I got into 3D printing about 3 years ago just before the COVID crisis. I bought an Ender 3 and it has out preformed the Prusa I3 since. Having worked on building an I3 I laughed when I heard 9 hours to build the i3, my Ender 3 took about 1-2 hours to assemble and that’s with no experience with using an 3D printer before. Since then I’ve upgraded my Ender 3 to have a CR touch and touch screen, it’s outperformed my brothers CR 10 and friends i3 since. When setting up the “smart sensor” on the i3 you have to very carefully tighten the screws that hold it in place on the printer at a specific height, otherwise the printer doesn’t work. When using the i3 myself and the group of younger children working on the printer encountered errors that stopped us printing for about 5 days vs my Ender 3’s easy setup. I’ve printed helmets and Cosplay armour on my Ender 3 with ease and my friends with their 2 prusa i3s can’t print anything better than a “batterang” from the Batman Dark Knight. I recently discovered how to have the best quality print profiles on my brothers CR 10 whilst having the fastest time without sacrificing quality. I took 2 day long prints (48 hours on Cura) down to just 13-15 hours. He’s never seem such high quality on his printer and speed. Now I can’t wait to get myself an Ender 3 S1 Plus you’ve sold it to me from this video and I’ve never seen a video by you before. As a manufacturing engineer I instantly understood all of the points that you made and found some very interesting. Thank you for being so informative.
You sound like a savvy individual. Its no suprise you've managed to make good use of your tools. Others don't have your innate abilities lol.
I loved my so much I bought another one...Thank You
He's back!
These are the reviews we came to see.
Never thought Prusa was worth the price. My #1 printer is the Artillery Sidewinder X2 for around 250 dollars shipped.
I have seen print quality from the Sidewinder X1 and X2 it's amazing out of the box took less than 10 minutes to setup as oppose to the Prusa Mk3 kit which can take up to 6 -10 hours build time. Only an idiot would think Prusa is a better choice in term of price and print quality.
Hey I’m looking to buy that exact printer soon, do you have any problems with the bed adhesion from what I see it has a non removable bed so I would probably buy a removable PEI coated bed plate. Also I know it has silent steeper motor, but what are the fans like? Are they creality level loud?
@@geovannyguzman8721 I've used a mirror bed and gluestick for years so I am a little biased but I think the x2 bed does not adhere as well. I was thinking about just clipping a pei sheet to it instead of doing the magnetic thing to reduce weight but it's probably fine with the magnetic backing. This thing is quiet as a mouse. When it is on and idle, no fans are running. When it is printing, you can barely hear it. Print a few add on's like rubber feet, and the z axis stabilizers and this thing excellent even though stock is great too. Look up 3d printed props video on youtube. He has a decent coupon code. That's how I got mine.
I have an Ender 3 8 bit old school and it runs near 24/7 printing petg with a microswiss all metal hotend, the metal extruder, capricorn tube. yeah it took me some time to get right but now it's just a dead steady beast. Also have an Ender 3 S1 Pro running Klipper, and an Ender 5 Pro w Klipper. These are all very good machines. I don't get the hate.
Hey, thanks for help us to open our eyes
Great review......so good I bought the s1+ today. I found it for $399 @ Microcenter in Columbus, Ohio
Hello Sir. I have had a 3nder3 for a while but am still very much a noob. Can you please make a video where you take a ender3 and upgrade it to print like a Prusia. I live in Huntsville Al.
I want to see the S1 vs Neptune 3 Pro vs Vyper in a side by side.
Do you have those 3 printers?
For the money, and on paper it looks like they might finish according to their respective prices.
I know the Vyper is not a direct drive, but the extended arm for the geared extruder and shortened Bowden setup might just be as capable as anything on this side of Ninjaflex.
Thanks for the good comparison review. Any chance you can get your hands on the Flying Bear Reborn 2? That is a very compelling printer for the money. Only thing it would be nice to have is an upgraded control board to run Klipper.
What an astonished piece of 🎨artwork. Please keep the amazing videos coming👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍🙌🙌🙌👍👍💯💝
Klipper is already fully compatible with the Ender 3 stock board (for a while actually).
I swapped the display on my S1 plus for the old version with the rotary knob. After that I was able to upload the professional firmware without any problems.
Yep, almost all printers use Marlin which you can exchange gcode because it’s standardized. Klipper supports the same gcode also. Prusa has a proprietary gcode which is dumb :(
I, for one, would love to see you design a split part cooling fan duct for the sprite extruder. I am very interested in that
As you wish. I'm working on it now.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I’ve got a start on one, the f3D is on my Patreon if you want to take some inspiration
There are some good 5015 part cooling options for the Sprite.
I also think there was some research done by some bloke on youtube on cooling ducts where open cooling works better than to much restricted area with "clever" cooling ducts.
Can you check out the Sovol SV-06? I got it for $229 and have had a great experience.
I use a first gen iPhone SE. Should I get the Prusa because I like Atmel and old tech or should I get the Creality because I'm cheap? If you guessed cheap then you are right. I paid $138 (shipped) to get a refurbished Ender 3 Pro. The included filament printed a great 3D benchy then then next day was crackling and popping from absorbed moisture and I had to dry the filament to get it to print well again. The 1kg spool of Creality branded PLA does not have this problem so I don't think it is from the same source as the sample, which is a good thing.
Hello, what about the Bamboo X1 compared with the Voron 2.4?
i changed my sprite pro extruder fan to a 5015 fan because little strings of plastic would get in the fan and make a buzzing sound but only because of that, because the peformance of the default fan is actually really good
I've printing with one in my farm, and I can confirm that machine is a beast. 5 months printing 24/7 no problem at all, quality like the first day. Awesome printer.
For the heatbreak the one the machine have is the same the ender 3 s1 has, that heatbreak has teflon inside, they got a pro kit you can buy with a bimaterial heatbreak, that works way better.
I should have dug into it deeper before declaring that "all metal" The thing is for PLA PETG ABS and TPU the PTFE liner is superior. Friction free and it's not possible for molten plastic to bond to it. Even a very smooth bore all metal really needs a coating to match the non-stick performance. Most Chinese manufactured throat parts don't have all that smooth of a bore. I think CNC kitchen did a video about bore smoothness.
@@DesignPrototypeTest yes maybe is s better solution for some materials, but also needs more changes of that piece trough time. E3d V6 uses that type of heatbreak with a thin channel between both sides, and works fine with all the materials
E3d has very good quality control. A very smooth bore in the throat and a top secret coating. A Chinese all metal hotend is not nearly so trustworthy. A part which is so difficult too verify for the end consumer should only be purchased from a reputable brand. Slice engineering makes an amazing product in this regard. Much better than E3D.
Put in my mk3s+ order! Thank you for this unbiased review
My feelings for Prusa are well known but this was as unbiased a review as anyone could make. I didn't cheat. the results speak for themselves.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Yes you did cheat. You know that yourself
@@TheOfficialDarkICE Hi, can you show me where? I asume that there wasnt shown this pointy thing from prusa but only from creality.
@@panpeople1119 There are so many things wrong. He sped up the prints and knows himself that firmware accelerations settings are different. Usually much lower on Creality printers. The MK3s finished much earlier. Didn't show the creality part with the flashlight but even then you can see the print artifacts for a moment there. I bet the top part was printed with slower settings and not just different retraction settings. Those print issue looked like weak part cooling. It's just a crusade against prusa nothing else. He usually criticize china and copycats and all of the sudden it doesn't matter any more. Creality violated the GPL numerous times and the sonic pad debacle was on another level. Prusa at least contributes back even though the MK3s need some serious update. What he never takes in consideration is that manufacturing in the EU is more expensive. I doubt that Creality even has a valld CE Certification.
@panpeople1119 he neglected to use the prusa slicer (which has been meticulously tuned for the mk3). In my opinion, this would be what a prusa buyer would use out of the box. Creality does have their own profiles but the slicer choice for an ender would be something like Cura
I messed up and got the Ender 3 Max (not the S1 Plus) and added on the Creality hotend and auto level sensor. I never could get it to work (as a set) and had to return it. The good news was that right after that the Bambu came out. Had I got this one, I'd probably be using Ender instead of Bambu today.
The non pro moniker of this one has a ptffd tube in the hotend and I don't like it. Switching to an all metal hotend would allow me to print up to 300C safely?
Is the Ender 3 S1 Plus compatible with the "Creality3D Sprite Extruder Pro Kit"????
Any plans to review the Sovol sv06?
haha love the video sign-out algorithm voiceover!
I have the cheapo ender 3 I bought for under $200, I love it.
Its like comparing apple 8 to the latest version of 2022. But still I love the innovation and standardisation that the Prusa company does in the field of 3d printing. It was Prusas flagship years ago and it made other companies improve their products. Prusa has always had great support vs no support (unless you can talk chinese). I enjoy Prusas website, challenges etc that they host.
There is nothing bad in buying newest Ender or the newest Prusa. I think that both printers need maintenance in some point and tweaking to find the right print settings.
And can`t deny that people like brands and enjoy them. A Scoda is not a BMW but both are cars that you can use for driving. An older BMW is still more expensive than a new Scoda. The same anology is with Lego and cheap copy bricks from china - you can make builds with both of them, but everybody likes the genuine article more and is ready to pay 4x times more over Chinese copies.
I will continue using my Prusa even it if would be from the fifties. Never had any serious issues: it works, works, works ....
Yeah. If it ain't broke don't fix it! But for God's sick don't buy another one in 2024 or tell anybody else that they should get one. There are much better options if you're buying today.
so which one was the best i gave over 500 for my s1plus
Any way you could make a video upgrading it to Klipper! we all own the Creality S1 Plus. not a big fan of the Prusa, specially knowing it comes from mr Prusa. thanks for the great videos
could u review a printer named pixel 3d s1 i intent to buy it but there is no review or anything regarding this printer
Really glad see you still doing great videos, fan boys just defend the brand because they spend so much in garbage if they don't defends it they will feel like idiots spending that much money in really outdated technology, keep doing videos like this, Good luck!
Nothing outdated about the Prusa. There's printing companies using those 24/7 with minimal downtime. It's open source, you can get or print parts. Where's the 5 filament loader for the Creality? Where's the upgrade path?
Nice that you touched a "holy cow", please do the same for Vorons to see how they are holding up.
You should do a little comparison video printing the same model but sliced on Prusa Slicer but using the built in profiles. Also do the same, but both sliced in Cura (using the built in profiles too). Maybe we can see if prusa intentionally makes subpar profiles for ender machines
Interesting idea. As critical as I am of Prusa I doubt they would do something like that. The slicer is open source after all. The handicapping would be clear to see to any programmer who opened up the github files. I guess they could release a compiled slicer that is different than the source code they shared. Possible but highly unlikely. Not that Prusa is above cheating like that but it would be a bad tactical decision.
Prusa prints well and prints fast
They also have a Klipper controller for this printer. Sonic Pad.
I am still a newbie (owner) of 3d printers. When I went to buy my first, I researched many printers. I almost purchased a Prusa, but then, my local 3d printing company guy showed me their farm. Not a Prusa in sight. I asked what I a newbie should buy and he recommended five Chinese printers. I settled on the Anycubic Vyper and I am happy. My next one though will be the X1 Carbon. Thanks, I am enjoying your videos. Binge watching today!
I added a linear rail kit from Amazon to my Ender 3S1 Pro.
Can you do a video tutorial about SuperSlicer? I have added it to my slicer stable and am still trying to figure out if I want to use Cura, SuperSlicer or PrusaSlicer. I know PrusaSlicer is a SuperSlicer fork, so it would be interesting to see what are the differences.
Super slicer is a prusa slicer fork and prusa slicer is a fork of slic3r, if you want maximum control use SS, if you have a prusa use a prusa slicer, Cura is a mixed bag, I love tree support, but the models themselves seem to slice better in PS and SS
@@budhiw I have noticed the same thing. I don't have a Prusa, but it slices well for my Kingroon KP3S Pro, using the Prusa Mini Profile and changing a few things. The FLSun Q5 seems to like Cura or Prusa Slicer. I was just curious about the differences, and whether or not I should try a new slicer or just use what I have been using and be content. But I will give SuperSlicer a look and run it through it's paces.
@@JohnDStrand try it out, I love the amount of options in Super slicer, have PS and Cura installed but not used at least a year
I bounce back and forth between Cura (currently using v5.2.0 Beta) and IdeaMaker. I know that IdeaMaker made noticeably nicer prints than earlier versions of Cura, but I'm liking the way the latest version of Cura is performing.
ender extruder assembly is smaller, but saying it wins is funny. even on klipper, it can't touch the prusa in speed (while maintaining performance). we're comparing their new sprite extruder to a name brand e3d hot end, name brand bond tech gears, higher torque extruder motor, and name brand noctua heat brake fan. and the stock part cooling fan works fine. centrifugal fans have good static pressure, and being that close to the bed, it cools just fine, even printing virtually everything at 200% speed like most prusa mk3 users do.
and apparently someone skipped statistic class if they think the setup routine is showmanship. it's an inductive sensor. they're noisy. to get the most accurate measurement, you want the most powerful reading, and you get that by being perfectly centered to the read locations. you don't get that by checking it once. you test it from many directions, many times, and take an average to get a nice solid answer. maybe some kalman filter for good measure. and you complain about setting up the pinda height, but the instructions literally tell you to mount it one zip tie distance from the bed while the nozzle is at perfect printing height. I got it first try. read the manual! and you keep mocking the "it just works" thing, but I've had my mk3 (non-s, non-s+) from preorder and have thousands of hours on it, and I've never tightened a single crew or belt. not one damn thing. six years, still the calibration done on day one. still prints perfectly. that's "it just works". and the lengthly pined calibration is why it can mesh level the bed in like 1/3 the time other prints like the ender takes, and nail it every time. 1st layer is one of the single most important things in 3d printing for success and reliability. prusa knows where to put their time and effort.
So do you consider it your job to sow the seeds of doubt. Nothing you are saying is concrete. Your entire game is just to make things seem less clear cut. Both extruders clearly print without issue up the maximum speed that the printers can be run at. You are just trying to pick off each win of the Creality one by one and make them seem like they aren't wins.
You are a propogandist. Why do you behave this way? Are you being paid, or is this just a hobby for you? Are you some new sort of troll? You aren't here for the LOLs you are here for the manipulations?
Seriously though. Stop trying to manipulate the internet. Let the printers speak for themselves. Tell Josef to make a competitive printer which is competitively priced instead of forcefully selling us on his 5 year old overpriced inferior machine.
@@DesignPrototypeTest propagandist? oh man, you're about to motivate me to make a video in direct reply to your clown ass. where do i even start?
first, none of these printers would exist without Josef's contributions to 3d printing. i built my first 3d printer just about 11 years ago and it was a reprap mendel i3. i bought prusa's pcb bed heater. slapped on a sheet of glass with binder clips and layered kapton tape on the surface. frame was A frame with threaded rods from the hardware store and joints were abs printed by my friend on his printer, in the spirit of reprap. brains? arduino mega and some drivers on 0.1 pitch headers on a shield. generic chinese steppers.
while clowns like you have this hilarious hate for prusa, they never realize what he's done to consumer 3d printing. he could've done what bre pettis did and sell out and go private. nope. makeebot, and therefore stratasis, acquiring thingiverse, then changing for EULA to say they own all objects uploaded to it, motivated him to create what's how called printables.
he made a great fork of slic3r. opened it to all printers and includes profiles for competing printers and filaments. leaves it completely open source. called bambu out on it when they based their slicer on prusa slicer but didn't contribute back per license. (they complied)
he standardized flexible magnetic build plates. and PEI surfaces. and mesh bed leveling. and the use of silent microstepper drivers. filament runout sensor. power panic recovery. and remember, the mk3 had all of this six years ago. everyone is playing catch-up. and he didn't hoard any of this. it's all open.
also, garbage in, garbage out, filament quality was not consistent, so he bought equipment and started making his own. it was game changing, and we can thank him for forcing the market to shift, and most filaments improved since. even a lot of cheaper ones list their tolerances how. he doesn't wait for the industry to change. if he sees the need, and opportunity, he leads with change
he will go down in the history books for being one of the biggest players in bringing turn-key consumer 3d printers to our homes.
some idiots always get stuck on the wrong side of history, so i'm not surprised that your responses were personal attacks with no data to back your blind rebuttals. i speak from experience. pointing a camera at your printer and uploading it to youtube doesn't automatically mean you know what you're talking about.
by the way, you've already shown that you don't know what you're talking about multiple times in this video alone. you said you doubt anybody would run klipper against that oem marlin board. ha, you mean the oem board that runs a 32 bit SoC? the one that people directly flash klipper onto? and even more hilarious, CREALITY themselves do what you claim doubt that nobody would do. the sonic pad. runs klipper. still uses the oem board to drive the kinematics.
i could go on and on but why bother? you're like the rest of the clowns coming out of the woodwork that got into 3d printing late and have no idea about Josef carrying the industry to where it's at today. the bambu fanboys are the worst if it, but apparently ones without bambu's like you exist too. morons. claiming print farms don't make money as a way to try to discredit their printer choice. get a clue
I'm always in favor of using POM over metal when you can. For 3D printers the loads are so low that I would often prefer polymer for motion components given their cost/lifetime.
Exactly! That analogy I came up with in the video of the wheel being like a tire is very apt. You don't see cars driving around on metal wheels without tires. Like you said because there are no loads why not reap the benefits of having a tire?
@@DesignPrototypeTest One thing I would like to see more of is the investigation of polymer as a motion component. I believe the Bambu uses polymer on their CF rods. Have wanted for a while to run Igus polymer on a 3D printer. The lifecycle and loads claimed are out of this world. Potentially you could ditch the wheels entirely and run directly on the 2020 extrusions.
would you also do a critique of the new version of the ender 5?
have here the original verison of this printer here and... really was not very impressed with it in the end. however what might be cool (for your channel content) is to compare the NEW ender 5 to the zero-g project. Which is an aftermarket project to upgrade it to a much higher standard. At which point then the modified zero-g version of an ender5 would be... something a bit more like a voron i suppose. so then the value of upgrading a garbage creality frame. vs starting from scratch and just spending the same on a printer that is higher quality to begin with. if that makes any sense, because it's a dilemma that many of us have. which is something harder to assess the value of. Since with a creality you end up throwing away a substantial amount of the original parts that you originally paid for. Which then in turn changes the relative value of upgrading so much of it.
i wish the CR10s had a chassy like the ender 3 s1 because it actually has extra space for a mosfet or anything else
XYZ calibration in MK3 includes XY calibration which automatically measures XY skew and saves the skew coefficient. That means the XY angles will be very precise so you can print mechanical parts that fit together. On other printers you have to print diagonal test object, measure it manually, insert into calculator and then insert the skew parameters into the FW (if it's possible). It includes also XZ and YZ skews but takes much more work.
only the s1 pro has the all metal hotend , the s1 plus and the s1 have a ptfe insert inside the throat so 260 is the limit, but i prefer not going above 230 on my ptfe printers
why would the fan turn on if its not even hot, or is that the fan for the power supply
I’m still using my iPhone 8. And I think it’s better then all the ones after it.
That's actually pretty cool. If he bought a Prusa 5 years ago and it's working for you, you should continue to use that one as well. The quality of Prince you will get out of all of the better machines is a barely noticeable difference. But I'm sure you're not telling anyone to buy an iPhone 8 in the year 2023. Especially if the iPhone 8 cost more than the current version. Neither should you tell them to buy a Prusa which costs more than the new printers that do a better job.
Creality are a no questions asked with sending parts if you show them a pic.
Nathanbuildsrobots does his own custom adapter boards Matt. He's a young mechanical engineer but he's learning quick. Great humor like you as well. He also has a few different versions of part cooling that keeps evolving. I know him and he's like minded.
I disagree with the touchscreen being better than a click wheel + lcd display, i always prefer a tactile interface to a non tactile one
(plus a lcd will work with klipper if u ever feel the need to upgrade)
I do agree that the creality is generally better than the prusa for the price, but for prusa money, a corexy is def the way to go rn
A actually hate that damn knob. Sometimes pressing the knob also changes the selection. I have one of the original CR-10 (not even a CR-10S) from back in the days and had nothing but problems with it -- some of which are difficult to impossible to fix. Though I am glad to see other companies getting it right because with more competition we get more choices and better machines in the end.
The sprite extruder is $90 so the lion kingdom is sticking with its obsolete $40 direct drive. Wonder what the weight difference is.
I guess the S1 Pro has the more full metal print head. Or is it just marketing? I bought the s1 pro rather than the plus for me to be able to print some more exotic materials. Expected delivery time in January :/
We just bought an Ender 3 S1 Plus, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.
If it doesn't work there are avenues to getting your money back. Consumer protection laws exist. It's not that hard. Why are you here complaining on a Random UA-camr's video about a problem between you and the vendor? Are you being a Karen? Are you attempting to shill for Prusa by damaging Creality's reputation online.
Looks great, but v-wheels for the y axis, and non-replaceable stepper drivers seems ridiculous for the price of the S1 Plus
Going to review the bamboo carbon p1p?
Yes.
I am really looking forward to test mine in january when I recieve my own p1p 😃
I pointed out what you said wrong: Prusa parts are made of ABS. not PETG. As you say he is 5 years old and it is true. 5 years warranty and support from this company, they are confirmed by people. Creality where? The warranty is just a piece of paper. My CR10SPRoV2 printer damaged the thermistor and shows the temperature incorrectly, and despite not moving it, I complained and the company does not respond. It doesnt work in EU countries. That's right, it's 8 bit, but it uses 100 percent more power than 32 bit printers. It prints flawlessly and has a dozen confirmed filament profiles that you don't have to fiddle with to set up. You're right that it was 5 years, but look at it honestly, they've only just caught up to Prusa level. For 5 years Creality has been pushing people cheap printers like the Ender 3, I remember they said it was better than Prusa and it wasn't true. A marketing scam. But what about the fact that the S1 Pro has just come out ... I'd rather you talk about Bambu Lab X1 Carbon or P1P because they can be compared to Prusa. Creality in my eyes is a joke and scammers. If the Prusa mini version, I would prefer Kingroon KP3S Pro, Ender 2 Pro is also a joke and a dump. I have noticed that Creality bribes Yootubers like Chep who favor and despite other printers dont reviews. Anyway, I don't favor Prusy, because I have Voron 2.4 350 and as I wrote, I had a CR10SProV2, it was my first printer that disappointed me quite a bit. I have friends who have a Prusy farm. And when I look at the Ender farm, I think they come out the same, because people have to spend on mods to get to the level of Prusa. And you know what's best, I see the comparison. Prusa had less breakdowns than Enders. If something broke, they got it for free. Creality no, you would have to order and pay.
I still have an iphone 8 and it prints just fine, don't see the need to buy an other phone if the current one is just printing fine.
Thanks for your real world comparison between a modern 3D printer and a Prusa. I have an iPhone 4 (and not the "S" version), but that's besides the point. I'm still running my first generation Ender 3 that I bought for under US$180 at least 6 years ago. I learned a lot with this printer and it has been a very enjoyable adventure. There was only one thing that needed upgrading and that was the plastic filament feeder. Even after hundreds of hours of prints, I'm still running the stock POM (Delrin) rollers. I've added several "upgrades" to my geriatric Ender 3 through the years, but most of them were not necessary, I just like to tinker. I have 7 printers at the moment and my next one will probably be a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon for only a couple of hundred dollars more than an antiquated Prusa.
Than why I still use the prusa?🤔
No need to swap out the main board, just run klipper of off a pi and use the front usb to connect.
Watching this on an iPhone 8 Plus. It works great. I have had 0 problems with it in 5 years of use. Don’t see a reason to change.
Uh huh but would you recommend somebody buy an iPhone 8 in 2022 when they can get the newest model for half the price?
@@DesignPrototypeTest I am just not really using an analogy for 3D printers. I just heard your comment about iPhone 8 and realized it was my phone and it still works great. I guess if I were to be using an analogy it would be “if you have had a Prusa MK3 that is five years old, would you upgrade to the ender 3, or just keep using the MK3. I agree that the ender is a better printer. I am not a Prusa fanboy, I have only ever owned one 3D printer, the original CR-10. Like my iPhone 8, the CR-10 has given me years of great service. I do think Creality, much like Prusa have not innovated and have been caught with their pants down by bamboo labs.
I saw that you commented on the difference in size and mass of the bed and how it affects the acceleration and jerk parameters. But I believe this comparison is not fair, as the S1 plus is a large format printer. It would be fairer for the comparison to be made using the S1 Pro or the normal S1, as they have a bed size close to the Prusa I3 MK3.
I was giving the S1 Plus credit for having the larger print volume so it's only fair to speak about the drawback that comes with that larger format. BTW, I would call 100-150mm beds "Small format" 200-350mm beds "Medium Format and 400-600mm "Large format. I don't think the S1 Plus qualifies as large format. But that's just my opinion.
I use Iphone 6s????? What is a problem????????
Check out the sovol sv06, it is a prusa clone for $260. Please look into it!
If only this video had been out before I bought a Prusa.
Sure it works but I could have gotten 2 other printers for the price of this one and be printing twice as fast.
I personally do not recommend Prusa's to people.
I’m using an iPhone 8. If you upgrade just because they tell you you can, I have some Florida swamp land to sell you. It’s almost as silly as hanging on to a Prusa mk3 printer!
Okay, but would you tell somebody to buy an iPhone 8 today if it cost twice as much as the newest model?
@@DesignPrototypeTest I guess I don't understand. The Ender 3 v2 is now $199 but I'm looking into the S1 Pro. I guess I need to watch the rest of the video but this stuff falls out of relevancy faster than the iphone 8!
Incidentally, I would indeed suggest the iphone 8 due to the enhanced tracking and recognition features of subsequent models. I've thought every iteration was great but they will quit supporting them to get you to keep moving along with the program.
Prusa it may well have it's backing but as far as i am concerned it is well over priced.
i now have 2 printers a Tronxy x5sa Pro and a Voxelab x2 out of the box the X2 was spot on and great prints from it every time.
the Tronxy X5sa Pro well it has it's problems i got this at half price even at a full price i still got 2 for less than a Prusa.
over the past week i have the X5sa now sorted with updates from Tronxy and it now works great prints every time it was a fault with software that is now sorted.
would i go and put klipper etc on these no as i do not see the point.
Great vid. THX.
Thank you! I hope you have a pleasant evening and a wonderful day tomorrow.
@@DesignPrototypeTestThank you. You as well. Hope to bounce ideas off you sometime when I'm organized lol. Keep up the great content.
SVO6 would be my next choice, I am so over V wheels !
Powerloss recovery is very likely to be the culprit for the texture on that cone
I considered that explanation. I discounted it because the same artifacts can bee seen on the Prusa print. Albeit to a lesser extent. Prusa printers do not suffer from that powerloss recovery issue like some Chinese printers do. When I used a different slicer the spire printed cleanly. Meaning the slicer is the variable causing the issue. I suspect that it is a wipe or coasting setting that was exacerbated by the incorrect retraction for the Ender 3. I don't care enough to figure it out at this time. I've moved on to other projects.
@@DesignPrototypeTest thank you for the detailed explanation. Good luck
@@DesignPrototypeTest Indeed. The recommended retraction for a Ender 3 is about 6mm, while it's about 0.8mm for the Ender 3 S1. That's a huge difference, and probably the core of the problem. Keep in mind that a too high retraction setting on a direct drive extruder can also give clogging as a result.
Hmmm… different from my experience. The Ender 3 S1 was my first printer and I learned a lot from it because I did way too much tinkering in past year. Now it runs Klipper and can print with quite incredible speed. However, I almost have to tune the settings for each model I created to achieve a good enough quality. I find this frustrating, as it could not “just work”. This is especially a problem if one aims to print for profit. Plus, the bed leveling mechanism is very unreliable. You could see people proposing all kinds of solutions in Facebook groups.
That was why I ended up buying a Prusa MK3S+ to see how good it is, since people running print farms appraise its consistency. For me, it was day and night. Although it looks like a dinosaur, it is old tech, the movements are relatively loud, and it cannot hit the top speed of a Klipper machine (you lose some useful features if you go Klipper on MK3 and it’s a bit more complicated to install Klipper than more modern machines, so I’ll assume you won’t do it), the print quality seem to me surreal at first. No, I didn’t get that obvious artifacts on the surface like on your video. And the consistency is as good as what I heard. Now I rarely have to tinker print settings. I can press print, walk away and it won’t fail.
We don't know who you are. You could be working for the Prusa marketing department. Your entire comment is a testimonial contradicting what I have documented on camera. If you want us to take you seriously make a video proving your words. I'm sure Prusa would be happy to retweet it and blow up your channel. What's adds to the sus factor of your comment is the single upvote. Most other comments don't have that. Looks like you used your alternate account to upvote your own comment. Everything you said just seems to be manipulation without substance.
Nah… I’m just sharing my experience and I have no will to make sure everyone take my words seriously. Just like I won’t 100% believe anyone’s content. It’s more like “okay, someone had that situation”. People can do their own DD and make their own decision.
@@burnout.c dude don’t bother arguing with DPT every time he sees positive things about prusa it’s “prusa marketing team” and whenever he sees negative comments he encourages them as they “prove his point”
DPT lives in his own spy movie where he is saving the world from Dr. Prusa and
his infiltrated agent like YOU. What a teenager
If you design a new and inspiring T shirt design, I might purchase it.
Ok.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Are you going to review the QIDI iFast?
Rod and bearings are much superior to v rollers, POM Z nuts are much superior to brass Z nuts. Prusa has z motors with integrated threaded rod, that together with the POM nuts mitigate z banding issues. On the Creality printed spire under harsh light, you can see z banding in your video.
Pusa does have more surface artifacts than most other modern printers using modern stepper motor drivers.
The creality machine has a bed probe that makes physical contact with the print surface and that is much superior to the non contact probe used by Prusa.
Edit: The prusa metal frame in the zy plane, that used to be a positive as other mendel style printers used acrylic or wood, now I wish it was standard aluminium extrusions so that I could bolt a proper spool holder or other things to it securely without drilling and tapping the frame.
The calibration aspect of the mk3, not talking about the first layer calibration, is typically run once after the machine has been fully assembled. On my geniune Mk3s, it passed calibration without problems. On my clone Mk3s I got a very specific error, I forget the exact error, when I went to check I saw there was an error on my part and I fixed it and the calibration completed successfully. Without the calibration I would have eventually caught the error myself but still it was cool that even on a clone mk3s the calibration caught the error.
Not a bad comment since you're talking about your personal experience and what you learned from it. Your first sentence however is untrue in the absolute sense of untrue. Not only are they not much better they're not measurably better nor visibly better in the final product.
@@buzzbbirdI agree, I've managed a lab with many different machines, and own 9 of my own machines, only one of my personal machines has rod and bearing and that's my original i3 prusa, I had to stop using it when the rods got scarred up from dust and started to bind. (It was old and not worth fixing) After a decade of experience I'll take the V rail and wheel set up every time hands down, it's also a great place to hide the drive belts which is an excellent design feature instead of the belts just free floating and vibrating like a guitar string causing them to eventually wear out or go out of calibration.
so who sent you the prusa then? or you had to get it by other ways?
My Neighbor had an extra one unbuilt in a crate: ua-cam.com/video/p22VtORQ79E/v-deo.html
@@DesignPrototypeTest haha cool! glad you could do this without having to spend any money on it. fantastic 👍
I'm pretty sure Creality is based in Shenzhen China, which is quite close to Hong Kong geographically, but isn't in that special economic zone.
I see all kinds of print farms on youtube featuring all kinds of printers. The majority of them have few if any Prusa's. When watching videos to try to glean information from all sources I see the Prusa farms making odd assumptions about upkeep on roller wheel machines that seem off. Watched one last night and the take away was "I have 20 Prusa's because I don't want to adjust all my wheels every week".
Approaching 3 years of using home 3d printers and I get so little useful info from Prusa featured videos. I use original Ender 3 Pro upgraded over the years to half the price of a Prusa kit printing 95% in ABS consumables for out small business or replacement parts for machines we use I designed. Still on the original belts, motors, and wheels and I have replaced 2 fans and just had a cable go bad. I think i have to had adjust my eccentric nuts 3 or 4 times and tighten my belts 2-3 times.
I am happy I didn't buy into the Prusa hype back then. To be honest it wasn't the cost that stopped me it was the PEtG printed parts and the damn zip ties in key areas that combined with printing ABS in an enclosure that exceeded my comfortable risk level.
So glad you know the difference between HK and CHINA
Superb review and analysis; considerably better than any of the many others I’ve seen.
Regarding the Prusa “it just works” supposition: my factory-assembled Prusa has exasperating reliability and manages to botch a surprising percentage of prints, all of which could have been prevented with better engineering. I paid a premium for the Prusa after believing the hype from Prusa fans, but various aspects of the machine as well as PrusaSlicer are truly harebrained, not just antiquated with a design well past its expiration date.
Arguably worse than the i3 MK3S+ is their customer service. I have decades of electronics experience and resent requests to upload videos/photos to Prusa to prove, say, the thermistor is bad when it obviously is (tacit message: “we don’t believe you”). They clearly don’t value customer time and must not be receptive to some of the negative feedback they’ve received, perhaps instead preferring to bask in the illusion of their superiority. With competitors rapidly gaining ground and one of them (Bambu Lab) on the precipice of leaving Prusa in the dust, Prusa’s reign as the foremost consumer 3-D printer will soon be over.
Similar experience here. Mini arrived with the y-axis belt loose and impossible to tighten using the stock parts. Hotend grub screws were overtightened leading to complete hotend replacement on the first serious jam. On my 3rd hotend now, again overtightened and destined for a landfill within a year or so. At this rate I'm going to essentially rebuy the printer every 3 years, cost-wise. Not what I expected from a premium brand.
Support claimed this is the first time they hear about the hotend issue (which was all over their forums at the time), while also claiming the grub design isn't being used anymore (it is, an if it wasn't why would that be?)
But I'm sure Prusa's legion of "customized it in my machine shop and it's perfect" fans would disagree.
Fwiw out of all four people I know who own a printer (five including myself), none of us has a Prusa Machine and we all unanimously agree that the Prusa is a pretty "meh" machine.
Hello, thanks for the video... I am researching a first printer, for my 3 kids and I... they are 9, 12, and 15... it will be used for all sorts of hobby stuff, and will be a part of our homeschooling technology curriculum.
I am leaning towards the Ender 3 S1 Pro , please let me know if you think that would be a good choice for some beginners as a first purchase.
Also, is there anything else that you think we should acquire to help us get started smoothly, besides some filaments?
Any suggestions for where to get materials, parts, and even the printer itself? We live rurally in the mountains and I don't think there is anywhere locally to get these type of things, so looking for a good , reputable source to order from.
We hope to add this to our home after New Years. After Christmas we will be building a desktop PC to use for this and a Silhouette Cameo cutting machine, as well as other uses.... it is almost identical to the PC that my son built just under a year ago, so I have faith that it will be a decent project and serve our household desktop PC needs...
Thanks for this video, liked and subbed , and hope to check out the channel more soon... cheers and happy holidays.