Ender 3 S1 Pro: so good it begs for Klipper! 3D Printer + Creality Sonic Pad
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- Опубліковано 3 лис 2022
- Ender 3 S1 Pro is the Top 3D Printer of the Ender 3 Line. Klipper might be a better fit than Marlin for this printer. Luckily, the Sonic Pad makes Klipper very easy to install on Creality Printers.
Ender 3 S1 Pro:
🔥geni.us/CrealityEnder3S1Pro on Creality Store
▶︎ geni.us/Ender3-S1Pro on Amazon
Sonic Pad:
▶︎ geni.us/sBecAVh on Creality Store
▶︎ geni.us/CrealitySonicPad on Amazon
Sprite Extruder Pro Kit:
▶︎ geni.us/SpriteExtruder on Creality Store
▶︎ geni.us/CrealitySpriteExtruder on Amazon
- As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
- I earn commissions from direct purchases from Creality
- I appreciate Creality for sending the "Ender 3 S1 Pro" and the "Sonic Pad" for me to review, no money involved. This is not a sponsored video.
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STL Models on this video:
Maker's Muse "Clearance Castle"
▶︎ www.makersmuse.com/clearance-...
Videos:
Can you Conquer the Clearance Castle?
- • Can you Conquer the Cl...
The Ultimate Guide to Perfect 3D Prints
- • The Ultimate Guide to ...
Clockspring3D "Torture Toaster"
▶︎ thangs.com/designer/Clockspri...
More from ClockSpring3D:
- / clockspring3d
- www.myminifactory.com/users/C...
- / clockspring3d
Pin Support Challenge
▶︎ fullcontrol.xyz/#/models/67cf20
Watch this video from "My Tech Fun" before printing:
- • Pin Support Challenge ...
Creality Rabbit
▶︎ www.printables.com/model/1432...
3D Benchy
▶︎ www.3dbenchy.com
Cali Cat: The Calibration Cat
▶︎ www.thingiverse.com/thing:154...
XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube
▶︎ www.thingiverse.com/thing:127...
Original "Maneki-Neko Lucky Cat"
▶︎ www.thingiverse.com/thing:923097
PS: I have no idea where the Cat from the SD Card came from - can you help?
All in One 3D Printer Test
▶︎ www.thingiverse.com/thing:265...
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Written, Performed and Produced by Everson Siqueira
I use royalty-free music from Epidemic Sound:
👉 geni.us/IW1NyB
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100% this is a big turning point in 3d printing. Machines are all feeling the same now so the only way to go is speed! 40 hour prints need to be a thing of the past.
Klipper will push things in a very flexible direction - and it will evolve very fast because most of the firmware is programmed in Python (that is so much easier and fast to program than C++).
I got one - my first printer and I love it. Sadly I think many folks got into printing in the past, and jumped out due to the learning curve, and while there is still one here, it seems this printer is much easier to get started with.
I've since hooked up an old PC to it and am running klipper - that made all the difference in the world. Being able to upload files and monitor from my phone or another computer has been amazing.
Hi Ricky. This same monitoring and ability to upload and print straight from the slicer is also possible running OctoPrint with Marlin - and works quite good.
Anyway, I think Klipper is the next mainstream firmware, so, you are in the right direction!
What do I need to do to run klipper from my computer on the the ender 3 s1 pro?
What do I need to do to run klipper on my computer to my ender 3 s1 pro?
That was very informative and well put together. Thanks for sharing.
Had first one on release date still working a dream pid auto tune built in to i love it .
It is a great printer indeed. Expensive, but good!
At first, I thought it's another complimentary review. I'm so glad to be wrong! You've pointed out some really importent details. Great job!
Thanks! I am glad you found new, useful information for you - it is the challenge of making a review MONTHS after the launch 🤣🤣🤣
Dude, this video was so satisfying to watch, please keep up the great work!
Oh, thanks! Sure, I’LL do! We had to move from the small apartment we rented and we bought a big old house - I am finishing the last essential settings for my workshop/UA-cam studio and I’ll be back to a frequent upload schedule 🤗👍❤️
Love your energy! Great vid🔥
Thank you so much!
Great videos man! Fun and with great info also. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Welcome to the channel!
Absolutely had to subscribe. I love everything about your video: good review, some comedic moments, your excitement...I can tell you are very passionate about making quality videos. Can't wait to watch more 👍
Thank you! Oh, lovely words - it made my day better. Yeah, I really love making videos - doing them as a professional UA-camr is an emotional roller-coaster… mostly because of financial uncertainty. Absolutely, more videos on the pipeline!
@@GeekDetour I completely understand. I'm such a newbie to UA-cam, I don't have the proper setup and I'm really not much of a people person. Lots of money and energy to invest but you do it well! Keep it up, maybe one day I'll be able to quit my day job 😉
+1 sub.
Really nice video - I'm in agreement that about the only things letting the S1 down is the initial assembly problems and the firmware. I found a few errors in the old firmware regarding bed levelling, but thankfully updating to the newest version has solved these.
This was a very well made informational video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! 🤗
I did the Sprite Pro Extruder head on my 3v2 and it was totally worth it.
I also did dual Z with sync belt/wheel and light. All aftermarket but now I basically have an S1 now lol. I love it. Put professional firmware on it and now it's pretty much everything I wanted.
Wow! Yeah! The Sprite Extruder is really amazing. I will totally upgrade my FrankenstEnder3 with one.
@@GeekDetour Can't wait to see another video on this.
Also added the creality filament runout sensor on a pivot, thingiverse, but I would probably have gotten the aftermarket one that uses 2 screw pattern that is meant to mount on it.
For the dual z sync pulleys I did 60teeth and a 696x6 mm belt but it was too small and binds higher up so I am ordering a 700( I think 700 will be spot on) +710mm belts to try.
Also the stock lead screws are a little short for the pulleys to mount up top so I would order 400mm (stock is 365)set. Or... like I am going to order a 600mm lead screws(want them to sit higher for pulleys to have room.for mount) and 600mm extrusion, as the long cable for the Sprite Pro and y motor are long enough.
I also have the support rod setup to help stabilize the setup. Which I will extend with m6 rod. Along with a new wire to extend the filament sensor. That is the only cable that needs extension.
Will be nice to add over 200mm more in height for about $100. But that is only.because the Sprite Pro.comes with such a long cable.Will just need to tap the extrusion and then it will be a straight forward install, update machine limits and done.
If you ever want to connect let me know. There's some things I wish I new before doing some of these upgrades and already went on long enough.
Wow! Great review! Love it❤
Hi MOM!!!! Thank you so much!!! ❤️❤️
to really get the Klipper speed you'll need the CHT nozzle, as that will be the thing limiting your volumetric speed.
congrats for a very nice and informative video. Havent heard from klipper yet, thanks and cheers :-)
Nice! Thank you for the video! :)
Thanks for watching! 🤗
I have watched your dx1 video and 29 seconds of this one and I already love your channel
Thanks! That’s very kind! Welcome to the channel - I am finishing a new studio so, very soon I’ll be back to making videos!
EXCELLENT REVIEW!
Glad you liked it! ❤️
I know nothing about 3d Printing... just started looking into it yesterday because I saw this model for sale for $130 CAD and they show a picture of what it sells for on Amazon for $495 CAD its new in box... you pretty much told me to go buy it... Thank Youp!
You are doing Gods Work my friend
Great video! 👏👏👏
Glad you liked it! 🤗❤️
I got an Ender 3 S1 Pro second hand and brought it back to life. Awesome printer! I purchased a Sonic Pad to go with it, and it is absolutely worth it. Sonic Pad comes preinstalled with Fluidd, and Creality even gives you a root SSH login, so you could swith to Mainsail if you wanted to. I also have a Bigtreetech Pad 7 for another printer, and it's no where near as polished as the Sonic Pad.
Interesting! I also want a BigTreeTech Seven Pad to Klipperize another printer… Everybody says it’s great, so I am finding interesting that you see the Sonic Pad as a more polished product. I’ll eventually be able to compare them myself too. Thanks for sharing!
great video! 👏
Hi there Marsgizmo! Thanks man! Big hug to you and your brother 🤗 Take care of him - he might go crazy making his own slicer, but I am cheering for him!
You might have me decided on my next printer
Congrats from Brazil !
Thank you! É nóis! 🇧🇷
Love your productions, videos, so professional made! 👍👍👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪🤩🤩🤩
Thank you very much!!! 😄 Each video takes a LOT of time - I’ve been fighting this since I began making videos… I hope one day I’ll be able to hire a video editor to help me. Right now I still need to do it all by myself.
I bought the sprite extruder kit, dual Z, and the sonic pad for my Ender 3 pro
My prints look just as good if not better than my friends prusa MK4
It was completely worth it and it is perfect for my budget and my needs
Duuuude! Klipper on a pad!! Holy cow . I’ve been trying to install clipper I break my machine I had to put the old firmware back on and I still didn’t get it to work yet man that sounds awesome.
Yeah, if you have one of the supported Creality Machines, installing Klipper with the Sonic Pad is really a smooth experience!
@GeekDetour so I have a question about klipper, is the firmware only on the sonic pad or rasberry pie (if used instead), or is the firmware of the printer changed as well? Just a bit confused if you could just unplug the sonic pad or rasberry pie and have it run on stock marlin.
Hi Tyler! Klipper has 2 big parts: all the software that runs on the Pi/Linux PC/Pad/whatever - and that’s what you interact with to use the printer, using a Web Browser. And there is also the part that runs on the Printer board. And, yeah, it replaces Marlin. Once you install Klipper you cannot run Marlin.
But if you regret moving to Klipper, you can always flash Marlin back to your printer - it is just not convenient to swap from Marlin to Klipper and vice-versa.
I wish there was an initiative to “combine” both and you could select which one you liked, when you turn on your printer, for example.
I heard from a few guys that they keep 2 SDCards ready for switching firmware - I never tried doing that. In practice, people that move to Klipper tend to stick to it.
Man there is not much love for this printer online and I don't know why ?!
it's my first printer since 3 months and I love it ... the only thing that annoys me is the leveling doesn't seem right and the sonic bed should have been a default kit
also me not seeing the first layer because of that giant fine in the front LOL .. they should have put it on the side
I'm planing to put klipper on it because the OEM firmware is useless
P.S I'm jealous of how accurate & clean the results of yours ! butthankful for your results .... gave me a hope and not to sell it
Hi Evertest (sorry if I spelt that wrong) I just wanted to thank you. About a year a go today I found your video on Arduino vs elegoo kit and even though I had never heard of Arduino before it got me very interested in the hobby then I got the kit and now have learnt how to program Arduinos and now Ive just got a 3d printer because of your videos. I just wanted to thank you for inspiring me to start these hobbies I dont know what I’d be doing now if I hadn’t found your video but now I’m about to enter a national science competition tomorrow based around an Arduino project . So just wanted to say thank and I love your videos
Wow Duller! Your message just made me super emotional and happy! I wish you all the luck on your competition. I know winning is the goal, but the really important thing is to live the experience, make friends, learn from the other teams. Only one team can win - but everybody can get better just by participating, and that’s priceless. Enjoy every moment of it my friend! ❤️🏆
@@GeekDetour Thank you so much, will do
Great Video ..."This is the way" 😉
This is the way🖖 …wait!! 😄 Thanks!
Hey, it's me and I brought a CR10 SE recently and I also own an Ender 3 S1 pro, and in my opinion CR10 SE is like an upgraded version of Ender 3 S1 pro with a more capable firmware "Klipper", which gives CR10 SE the capability to go at 600mm/s lightning speed and still maintaining descent print quality, which is somehow mind blowing for a bed slinger, also with some hardware upgrades for running at high speeds. That sounds too good in paper but in reality, for achieving such high speeds without compromising with the print quality, we need more complex and capable algorithms (like which Klipper uses, input shaping, pressure advance, z-offset ,etc) which is totally fine but with more complexity comes more challenges which is a matter of concern especially for beginners, also in my experience with both of these printers I have suffered a lot with my CR10 SE (especially in terms of print quality) as compared to my Ender 3 S1 pro, which prints slowly and uses marlin but offers me much higher print quality, sometimes input shaping doesn't works correctly and my print shows ghosting or ringing which is quiet annoying, especially if you want that print for some decoration or simply if you want it as you sliced, and in that case your precious filament which costs many dollars get simply wasted, and yeah if you guessed it why, then you are right, "because of speed" which Klipper provides and not merlin, I know speed is also important but in my opinion not as important as print quality, and if you agree with this, please help us by contributing some more content related to this topic on, "how to gain better print quality even at high speeds", also thanks to it's open source nature that we can tune it's algorithms as per our needs. As Klipper is becoming mainstream and more and more people were getting into this, our effort towards it provides significant value to our community and helps our "makers of tomorrow", contributing towards better.
#GeekDetour
I just found your channel and already love it 🤩. You are so easy to understand!
I'm just not sure I agree the Sonic Pad is all that. In truth, I don't have one. I wanted it, but I heard it had so many compatibility issues with the Ender 3 series, I forgot about it. The S1 Pro I have 2. One for high temp filament, the other for everything else
Hi there! Thank you and welcome to the channel 🤗
Almost one year later, I can say I used the Ender 3 S1 Pro a LOT and I still stand saying it is an excellent printer - the price, now, should go lower to be competitive since there are incredible new printers out there.
About the Sonic Pad: it bothers me that the source code has not been openly published - it is a Fork from Klipper and the good practice would be keeping it open. And if it was open, the community could be way faster to fix the problem that the product faced than just by Creality alone. Overal, mine worked great - but I would be lying if I said I never had a problem. In fact, in two occasions I had prints that simply stopped printing (like, a 1/3 of spool for the trash) with a completely nonsense error message. On the first time I tried it again and the print had the same fate. 🤬 Months later, when something similar happened, I just moved to the Neptune 3 Pro (that uses Marlin). Since then I never printed big things with the Sonic Pad - just small parts. Maybe I should burn Marlin back… 🤷♂️😬
It is a pity the world spins so fast now… everybody expect you to get a printer and publish a review in two weeks tops… it is impossible to spot all problems so fast.
If you are enjoying your Ender on Marlin, be happy. No need to change just because.
I have Klipper on a different machine and I love it - but I am just using the AnkerMake M5C that runs on Marlin - and it is INSANELY fast.
Which programm do you use for slicing? And how did you set up the printer to make the parts so beatiful in quality?
i got the ender 3 as my first printer and it didnt work out as planned and i ended up having to return it with no thought of trying again.
then the s1 pro came out and its coming on the 25th!
Hi Dab! 3D Printing has some learning involved. Printers today are much easier: auto-bed leveling helps a lot, the PEI sheet also helps a lot - but there is the eccentric nuts adjustment, z-offset, keeping the bed clean (otherwise prints won’t stick). Be prepared to learn what you must learn to use it.
Other than that, lots of fun waiting for you 🤗
Hi Everybody! If you have questions about the Sonic Pad and the Ender 3 S1 Pro, bring them on! I'll try my best to answer - I am still learning about Klipper, be gentle! ha ha ha
I installed the sprite pro extruder kit on my Ender 3 pro
Are you ever planning on upgrading your Ender 3 pro to the sprite extruder
I would love to see a video on it!
Hi, what slicer are you using and what settings? I have the printer but Cura doesn't give clean prints.
Very interesting, I have a one and I still working on making it more perfect as well. Question, is it one pad by machine? Or you can use the same pad on multiple Ender3 S1 Pro?
I just installed a recent update that allows you to have 4 printers… BUT I am not sure they work simultaneously… I need to check that, but I got the impression it is a “Switching” thing.
lovely ARM Cortex M4, 84MHz. 50 I/O's Nice.
What are your slicer settings that you used?
PS: Great video!
I am owner of s1 pro but without "linear advance" the the corners and dimensional accuray is not so good. We are glad if you make a video how we can use "linear advance" .
Hi there! I don't know when I am going to make a video about Linear Advance and bulged corners.... Until there, try, in your slicer, check the acceleration being used - if it is anything less than 1000, try 1500.
Meanwhile bamboo is about to lap everyone again.
I hope so!!! It costs more more than twice 🤣
@@GeekDetour its more than twice as good. It's built for printing not tinkering with.
first time watcher and i loved the video. I just got the sprite for my ender 3 pro after some thermal coooling issues on the hot end . the best upgrade i have done recently. I'm intrested in the sonic pad but I have some pis lying around so i may just run klipper of that. But whats the advantages of klipper? thanks in advance! I'll see if you've done a video on that :)
Thanks!! I sure need to make a video comparing Marlin and Klipper - I am still learning about Klipper and how to customize it. The most striking difference is how fast you can change settings without the need to compile anything. I just changed the settings to use the whole bed plate (235 x 235mm instead of 220x220) and you change a config file, save, restart, done!
@@GeekDetour thanks ! Might have to do it then !
The knob display port is bc the ender 3 s1 (not pro) has a color know display instead of touchscreen
True! I saw a few people buying the S1 Pro, and buying a “replacement” S1-Knob-screen to use the “Professional Firmware” from Miguel Risco-Castillo
No way, sonicpad looks beautiful. Spent year to make my printer to be someting like S1 comes out of the box... Time for Klipper? 😏
Ha ha ha, it is unfair, isn't it? 😆 I cannot say the Sonic Pad is more advantageous in every single way compared to putting your own Raspberry Pi solution... But, PRICE ALONE it already makes sense! The screen is gorgeous - you can still access the Fluidd Web Interface on your browser, and connect a webcam. But to me the best part is: if you have one of the already supported Creality Printers, installing Klippy is ABSOLUTELY brainless.
@@GeekDetour and what about compatibility? If I have modified ender with bigtreetech skr e3 v3 mini will sonicpad work for it? or exclusively creality boards? Thank you in advance.
I have two S1 pros, excellent machines. Also two Sonic pads, it has some growing pains. However I see Creality is doing some updates so it will get better. I like this setup and it can only get better. 💪
Why 2 sonic pads? Can’t one pad run multiple printers?
@@portcityengineering because I wanted to do it this way. For calibration sake it's easier.
Just got my ender 3 S1 Pro today at £389 in the UK from BOX on Ebay took only 3 days for it to arrive AND now I see this Sonic Pad so it got me thinking Shall I go the whole hog and go for it / I like plug and Play out of the box so it looks like a win.
Hi Janet! Is it your first 3D Printer? You can learn a LOT, print thousands of things and have a bunch of fun with the Ender 3 S1 Pro the way it comes, without going Klipper.
Marlin has a larger user base and it is easier to get answers for any question than Klipper right now.
I am loving Klipper and the Sonic Pad is great - but again, I have some mileage with the hobby already and I missed a couple of things in the Marlin that came on the S1 Pro (as I explained in the video).
I don’t see how you would regret buying the Sonic Pad - but maybe it can wait a bit while you explore everything your printer already can do.
No not my first, have a FLsun and a A10 dual color, always printing gears for clock making as there are 2 people on UA-cam I follow and buy there files when available, have 6 working models todate
Don't you mean: Ender 3 S1 Pro: so [expensive] it [should come with] Klipper!
Well, I agree it is not cheap… When you think of the current prices for a Raspberry Pi + LCD Screen… I think the Sonic Pad has a fair price. The Ender 3 S1 Pro has a steep price for people getting into this hobby. When I started 3D Printing, I got the cheapest things I could find. Today I am willing to pay almost $100 for the Sprite Extruder Pro Kit - for an old Ender 3 Pro that has cost me $200 three years ago 😆
Received my E3 S1 Pro yesterday and am a complete noob. So easy to get up and level. Have printed the pre sliced models on the SD card and was amazed at the quality. Just printing my first ever Benchy, 🚤 then Torture Toaster is next. Can’t believe I’m already looking at reviews of the sonic pad 🤦♂️.
Anyway loved your enthusiasm so thank you for the honest review. I got 2 full spools of filament with Just Creality’s own brand PLA in black and white. Im after some other colours and potentially different types. Does anyone have any suggestions? This 3d printing looks like it gonna be fun. Many thanks
Hey! My pleasure man! 3D Printing is HIGHLY addictive - you’ve been warned! 🤣 Enjoy the ride, there is so much to learn all the time ❤️
Finally, someone who tells the truth. Thank you so much. Very good video, informative but simple. Thank you so much...
Ha ha, thanks! 🤗 Well, everybody is somehow biased - I am an optimistic person and I think there is a product that gives the best bung for your buck. The Ender 3 S1 Pro is VERY good and, if are not on a budget, it is a solid choice. I hope Creality releases a new firmware soon with Linear Advance and M600 (filament change) - so, it would be “Perfect” for me out of the box.
Love the video. I am looking at buying an Elegoo Neptune Pro 3 (maybe plus).
How does this printer compare?
Hi Joshua! Elegoo sent me both the N3Pro and the N3Plus to review - I am late in launching these videos… Here is the thing: it is very hard to beat the price on the new Neptune 3 lineup, very good printers, good firmware, it is a solid purchase. IMPORTANT: the Plus and the MAX are not printers for beginners, they take much more space, will print slower (it is a heavier moving bed), calibration is a bit harder, so you need to ask yourself if printing BIG is a need.
The Sprite Extruder from Creality is really, really good - if you are willing to pay the premium price, buying the Ender 3 S1 or S1 Pro gets you the best extruder.
Elegoo’s new extruder is also good. It is an excellent product for the money.
So, there are no wrong purchases here, if you have the money. If you are on a budget or prefer to use part of the money to buy lots of filament colors, the Elegoo N3 Pro is a very good choice.
Did it help? Or made it worst? 🤣
what slicer and slicer setting do you use and could you share them please because i’m having trouble getting good prints. thanks
Can you make a video on programing the gcode to pause for filament change? I have an S1 PRO and would like to print Hueforge print but don't have a print that has color chnging like the Bambu lab
Nice vídeo
Thanks! 😁❤️
HI can you help me I have an ender 3 that frints fine when the layer is solit but when i lifts mid layer i globs when it sets down can i enable something to print 1 solid layer instead of picking up.
Hi Shadow, the BEST way to get help with your failed prints is joining a Facebook User’s Group - and POSTING PHOTOS of print. Without a photo, we can only imagine what is happening - when you post a photo, we can really understand what’s going on.
Here: Creality Official Users Group
facebook.com/groups/creality3dofficial/?ref=share
Do you have videos for s1 stock vs with klipper to compare the print quality difference?
Great stuff you are sharing there, very well explained, really pleasant to watch and learn from your videos.
Printing with Klipper Sonic Pad can increase highly print speed, up to 160mm/s keeping great quality.
What do you think of this standard basic aluminium heat block? It does the job at a certain point.
What about improving the heat sink and heat block to increase the melting zone, meaning the material flow too?
I created a plug and play kit in this matter, zero tool heat set swap, copper heat block and conical nozzle for increased thermal efficiency and flow, only need tester to confirm the improvements... :)
Nice video. New subscriber to your channel.
Thanks and welcome to the channel! 🤗
Hello ! awesome video ! what have you set on the sonic pad/klipper for the rotation variable of the extruder (which replace marlin esteps)? because by calculation it should be 7.6xx but not sure it is really the good setting
That’s an excellent question - I don’t recall changing this value. I am sorry for not being able to check now - most of my printers are disassembled / packed because we are moving!
@@GeekDetour hello, dont worry ! creality did not documentate that and saw on reddit most users used a value around 26.X despite the calculation resulting in that 7.6X
Wow! That seems a big difference… I need to check this in two weeks 🤣 thanks for mentioning!
Excellent video great energy and so appreciated that you take the time to do this for many many people that may not show there appreciation. But they do appreciate just don't think to say thank you................. thank you and hey everyone please subscribe to this fellow he is really good at what he does. Let's keep him going.
Oh, thank you so much, Robert! Very kind words and I really appreciate them. I am incredibly happy with this video - not just for the views: there were a lot of thankfully replies - and even quite a few “super thanks” with is something I am seeing for the first time in my channel. It is a fast-paced world that has been very often hostile, so I feel very rewarded by every person that stops to give any feedback. When it is so kind, it’s a party 🎉
How well do you think this would work on the regular S1? I have a few upgrades already. I’ve been thinking about trying this but I’m nervous I don’t know enough to get it all squared away
Hi there! You mean, the Sonic Pad? To run Klipper? Maybe you should first try the “Professional Firmware”, that was recently released for the Ender 3 S1 (not Pro) - it is A very decent compilation of Marlin, with a better usage of the LCD screen, more information, more menus, I think it has linear advance enabled, etc.
Klipper is clearly the future - but it is more stuff to learn.
@@GeekDetour oh I’ve had the pro firmware since I got the thing. I updated that after like a week. I didn’t realize the sonic pad was so plug and play, I thought there was gonna be coding or advanced wiring or rigging or some other complicated work to do. I have a regular S1 with the pro firmware from GitHub I put the all metal hotend in, I bought the light. I basically turn my S1 into the pro buying all the pieces separately because I bought my S1 like a week and a half or two weeks before the S1 Pro was announced and come out or I probably just would’ve got that one. The only thing I don’t really have that the pro does is the touchscreen so if I buy the sonic pad and plug it in and hook it up, it will automatically install clipper on the printer and it will be ready to run with may be a couple minor things to do or set up? Obviously a change in slicer settings and such.
@@GeekDetour I want to learn. That’s why I’m here. I absolutely love this stuff. I’m in the process of teaching myself fusion360 too
Hi there! So, the TouchScreen of the S1 Pro gets completely useless (it stays black) after you install your Sonic Pad - everything will be done on the Sonic Pads screen or on the WebInterface on your computer.
The “conversion” is: you chose the printer on Sonic Pads screen… if will write an SD Card for you… that SDCard you insert on your 3D Printer… power on… it will be flashed “Klippy” (the part of Klipper that runs on the printer’s board). That’s all.
Your printer will always need the Sonic Pad - it won’t run Marlin anymore (you could flash Marlin back if you want… but you get it: you don’t have both ways at the same time).
Fusion 360 is great! Go for it!
Your Benchy looks a hell of a lot better than my Benchy on the same printer 😂😂
Ha ha, thanks! But it depends a lot on the profile - and I eventually make tiny adjustments for each model I print. I just got an AnkerMaker M5C - super fast awesome printer: it got me a less than ideal benchy with the profiles that came. I eventually got it perfect, but that’s trial and error.
Hello, Thank you for this video. But I have 2 problems. First the colling fan for the filament coming out the nozle is lower ( closer to the bed ) as the nozle it self. So the paper method to level is not working. As far as I see the fan can not be adjusted, now what? Secondly as a print start the extruder ( and so all that has to be close to the bed ) goes up for more ore less like 5 to 6 mm. Result lost filament. HELP PLEASE.
Hi there! Are you sure the whole print head is not loose? I mean, when you grab it with your hand, it should move from left to right and nothing else, no up and down or twisting… If it has other movements, the eccentric nut is loose (so that explains the fan hitting the bed). Oh, I am pretty sure you can adjust the fan a little bit in either case. It is mounted with screws! Hope you can adjust everything and have it working soon!
Hello. I’m might want to upgrade my 3d printer and there’s so many options and I would like to know what you would recommend. I would like a fdm printer over a resin one. So far I kinda like the Flashforge Adventurer 4 and Ender 3 s1 pro. Are those good one, or any others that would be better? My current printer is an Ender 3 v2, so I have some experience Thank you
I don’t know the Flashforge Adventurer 4… but I just checked and it costs more than 700 USD!!!! On this price-range I would TOTALLY go for a Bambu Lab P1P
your voice is amazing bro
Thanks!!!! You made my day! ❤️
video on how to install sprite extruder on ender 3 pro? I bought one and got stuck : (
5:03 is that screw on the left broken or is that just a reflection? it looks like the screw is broken in half
Hi there! There was nothing broken on the extruder, everything came (and still is) fine 🤣
Hi . where I can get fixed soft for ender 3s1pro
What slicer are you using? how do you get your prints to come out so clean! it must be the slicer settings?
Thanks Mark! The first big step is assembling and adjusting the mechanics correctly - nothing should wobble and yet the wheels shouldn’t be super tight. Belts should be well tensioned (of course there is a sweet spot tension). And finding the correct extrusion flow is also VERY important, not under extruding nor overextruding (and that varies a bit with every filament). There is no magic slicing settings that compensate for a wobbly printer.
And, well, being on camera with studio lights makes everything more beautiful 🤣👍 Ok, that’s true, but the prints got very decent indeed.
Great video really interesting even though I don’t 3d print. DO you think you’ll make a review on the new Arduino kit
Hi Duller! I will be back to Arduinos soon - I have a few more 3D Printers to review, a Laser engraver - and then I’ll start working on “Maker Projects” that will mix 3D Printing with Arduinos
@@GeekDetour can’t wait
Hello, am trying to use timelapse and i have really bad quality prints. Did you change anything on retractions etc?? Thanks in advance
I need to say that I only make TimeLapses when “video” is more important than the actual piece I am printing. When I need a perfect, clean print, I don’t make a timelapse.
I need some help mate.
Recently I bought an ender 3 s1 pro and hoping to design a UV glue dispenser toolhead for it. There is a few questions:
1) People said klipper mapped all pins of controller MCU, is that means I can repurpose the fan pins/detector pins/heater pins on extruder tool head?
2) Also I found a breakout diagram shows there are a couple of spare pins amongs the 24 pin ribbon, can they be controlled by klipper marco?
3) is there GPIO pin left on mainboard? are they mapped by klipper?
4) can I add an extra G-code to fire up that spare pin/ repurposed pin?
I only need one to fire a high/low signal to my arduino nano😭
My goodness, these are the questions I also want answered for a few projects of mine. The hard part is that the Printer boards are very specific… So far I understand that, when you compile Klipper (the part that is compiled, that runs on the MCU), all the pins are mapped - but which is which you need to try to find on the board documentation (some are very well documented, some are not). Also, the boards might not expose / break out all the MCU pins into connectors for you to use. I don’t know in the case of the Ender 3 S1 Pro, how many extra pins are available, besides the ones the printer used. In the case of the ribbon, if there are unnused ones, that can be useful - BUT, the challenge might be how to connect whatever you want to both sides. MAYBE IT IS an easier approach to connect an extra MCU via USB to the Rasbberry Pi you might want to use to install Klipper, and use Macros and GCode to enable/disable pins on that extra MCU.
The Sonic Pad might not be the best Klipper Host for a tinkerer like you. A Raspberry Pi gives you more flexibility.
This guy connected a second board to his Klipper, so he could control more things:
ua-cam.com/video/HFKuOtuOYIM/v-deo.htmlsi=8HbJENlNZVbqCOTS
What slicer and setting did you use? Also did you use z-hop because I have an ender 3 s1 pro and I'm having some stringing problem when I have z-hop turned on.
Yeah, ZHop is a controversy feature, right? Some people don’t like it - I actually do. All my profiles have ZHops. But they work well because my retraction settings are well adjusted as well as Pressure Advance (or linear advance in Marlin)… So when the extruder stops, nothing (or very little) plastic will ooze from the nozzle. I think ZHop is important for fast moving without hitting things - but that’s my preference. Depending on your settings, ZHop can be worst, or good… It depends on many factors.
@@GeekDetour thanks,what slicer do you use?
Oh, I need to use Everything… Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio, OrcaSlicer - and I am enjoying Orca A LOT! It is my recommendation now. When I made this video I am sure I was using PrusaSlicer for the Ender 3 S1 Pro.
Is there no easy way to run Klipper without the expensive sonic pad? I mean it has a nice touch screen already. and how to upgrade the firmware and screen firmware?
Hi Hennie! Before the pandemics, buying a Raspberry Pi 3B was extremely cheap and that was the cheap way into Klipper. Search for “cheap Klipper” on UA-cam and I bet you will find alternatives. Easy alternatives is a different story.
What slicer did you use and what settings? because I have the same printer and I followed a UA-cam guide on setting it up, but the roof of my benchy would not bridge. And a lot of my prints are not staying in place but I’m not sure if it is a sticking problem or if something is in the wrong place and knocking itself off. I’m new to 3D printing and want to know how to fix it, thanks.
Hi there 👋 I cannot stress enough: squeakily clean bed (washed with dishwashing soap under warm water, well rinsed and dried with a paper towel - do NOT touch with your fingers after that), then proper leveling and finding the right Z-offset is the KEY to success in 3D Printing.
Here, a nice video about how to adjust your printer: ua-cam.com/video/rGyVjqCD2Pk/v-deo.html
I will do those but I still think that it has to do with the settings I put into cura, and I don’t know what to change
Is there a simple way to connect remotely to the sonic pad with out being on the same LAN?
That’s an excellent question! The important point is: how to do it safely. You could configure a specific port on your Router and do a port-forward to the Sonic Pad - but That is dangerous. The Sonic Pad didn’t have any password set. This is certainly a topic for a good video! Sorry for not having a good solution ready to go.
@@GeekDetour Was thinking about same thing as Mike, guess ill have to leave my old laptop next to printer which will be connected to sonic pad on home wifi, and then use windows remote control to control that laptop from anywhere on my phone :D
Valeu!
🤑🤑🤑 Thanks!!! 🤣
I just got mine, and I'm really thinking of running Klipper from my computer to control it. Is it worth it? I'm kinda new to 3D printing, so I don't really know if it's the path I should follow so soon. Also, I have to flash it onto the printer, right? Can I simply go back with the stock Creality firmware if I want? Also, I got an laser engraver module. Can I keep using it with Klipper?
Since you have the laser engraving module I think it is better to keep using the Marlin firmware that has the support for laser
@@GeekDetour I did a quick research since yesterday. I think I'll try Klipper at least once, whenever I receive my filaments (probably today). Laser engraving is not a priority right now, and still, I can go back to Marlin
Hopefully Creality releases a laser capable firmware for the Sonic Pad soon enough, so people can implement it the right way on Klipper, too.
Ricke Impey has a solution to changing colors, look at his channel. I had the same problem you did, the extruder went to home, I started changing the filament and it went back to printing! Almost burned my finger I was like WTH. Don’t understand why Creality didn’t fix this right away
Exactly. The printer is awesome - but firmware could have more attention!
Ricke solution is ingenious… but Geezzz… that’s the type of workaround I really don’t want to deal with! I want M600 implemented correctly 😄 because on PrusaSlicer it is very easy to mark the layers where I want filament change.
6:58, The Machine lol
I have the Ender 3 Pro with the Sonic pad, the quality and speed are even better than with Marlin and you can really dial in your printing, great video, new subscriber, the only thing that confuses me with Klipper is bed levelling, as I manually level, then calibrate the Z probe, then run auto level, but the variance on the auto level can be as high as 0.8, the prints are still coming out great thou :)
Hey, on the Aurora Tech channel they show the set up of the Sonic Pad ua-cam.com/video/EkRj0HA30rI/v-deo.html Maybe what they do will help you out as they point out the Z height issue.
I'll run auto mesh and adjust from there, might take a few tries but ya, after manual adjust the auto there to much variance.
are you going to go more indepth with the S1 Pro install on the Sonic Pad ?
Installing Klipper on the Ender 3 S1 Pro using the Sonic Pad is so, so absolutely easy… nobody needs a video! Ha ha ha. I literally just followed the instructions of the screen and in about 5 minutes it was ready.
Fine tunning your printer using Klipper, that surely deserves a few videos. I am still learning.
@@GeekDetour how is the tune with klipper on this?
Have you needed to do much from stock install ?
Sure was hoping Sonic Pad had more profile customization for other printers. Ive got a few and ann the reviews are saying Creality is trying to keep it close to the chest, trying to force their own ecosphere
Oh, if you change the tension of the belts, it changes the resonance frequencies of the printer, so with Klipper you can calibrate “input shaper” again. Advance pressure compensation will change depending on the temperature and speed you intend to print… and filament also have specific ideal flow rate (that will always change).
Also, by tuning, I also include creating your own Macros.
@@GeekDetour the Macros you're using would be a great video.
you can't install your own firmware, the touch screen firmware is not opensource, you'd need to change the screen if you want custom firmware
Hi Victor! You are right: people that want to use the excellent Miguel Risco-Castillo’s “Professional Firmware” on the Ender 3 S1 Pro are replacing the touch screen and on its place they put the Rotary Display from the Ender 3 V2. Luckily, it is quite cheap to buy it: around 30 dollars.
Thanks for pointing that out!
@@GeekDetour is any way to activate la on stock firmware?
Wow. This man could sell snow to an Eskimo or the Ender 3 S1 pro to an Ender 3 owner.
Ha ha ha - I will take it as a compliment 😆 I still have my Ender 3 Pro - the first 3D Printer I bought - it prints well. But it primarily served me as a playground for breaking things, fixing, testing and learning. The Ender 3 S1 Pro that Creality sent me is a much more reliable, more mature printer - out of the box. Sure, it is way more expensive as well.
Marlin is open source but Creality has not released the source code for this printer AFAIK.If you use community versions be aware these are not compatible with the touch screen.
You are right. It is possible, though, to buy the same knob-screen used on the S1 and use it instead of the touchscreen, then you can use the “Professional Firmware” from Miguel Risco-Castillo.
@@GeekDetour Yes, I'm aware of that but that's an extra cost that users shouldn't need to pay for. Creality really should be releasing the source code for the printer firmware.
I got the non pro version, same thing happened with my ender 3 pro I got it replaced for. All my prints turn into spaghetti after a few minutes! Help would be appreciated.
secret edit: once its fixed i might install klipper!
My first printer was an S1 (non pro) and the bed was horribly warped. Creality told me they couldn't do anything through warranty (told me "no bed is perfectly level" and mine was "withing spec"). Ultimately they suggested I buy another bed or stack supports under the plate to raise the warp.. I was super disappointed and sold it for a huge loss. I received my Carbon X1 a month ago and my Ankermake m5 is on the way. So, I would love to see some videos on those two printers.
Hi there! There is some truth on what they said: no bed is really flat. A few months ago I reviewed the Elegoo Neptune 3 - it is a solid bed with no adjustments whatsoever, it was a bit warped at the back (almost 1mm)… but in the end it prints perfectly because of mesh-bed-leveling.
My first Ender 3 had a terribly dip in the center (around 1mm as well), but back then, it didn’t have BLTouch or 3DTouch… I used glass for a while (it helped a lot), but later I took it off and I used an Orbital Sander to make it as flat as I could. I got it around 0.1 of deviation, which is very acceptable. And finally, with 3DTouch I never have level problems.
I don’t have an Ankermake or a Carbon X1 - maybe one day they send me one of those to review 😄
Yes with proper understanding of mesh leveling, your hws doesn't need to be flat. Don't worry though, it's definitely a learning curve and no issues moving to a more beginner friendly printer
@@azimuth9819 my ender was REALLY unlevel. Like almost an 1/8th inch from the center to the right corner. I would have had to stacked hundred of post it notes. There is no algorithm that could have compensated. Ender is trash because they have zero QC.
@goawaybaizuo2309 I agree about the QC. Big problem is most "how to" videos on leveling your bed for Crtouch are completely wrong, and people are constantly too high, always. Using a 0 y offset mount helps a lot but should come standard. Once the CRtouch nonsense is figured out it's great, literally havnt had to level my bed in months othan than when I moved it to add Oldham couplers. Perfect quality tbh
Aluminum foil tape works well... fixed my Ender 3 pro bed dip in the middle. Best 2$ ever spent lol
Nice editing, love the video, but less music would be better or at least not so loud.
This sonic pad will work with 3s1 Plus right?
Creality support told me it does. I'll know next week
You dont need a Raspi4 for this. I have mine running wirelessly on a pi3 with a cheap wifi adapter. DYOR.
Oh, I also have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ around… but all the Raspberry Pis are INSANELY expensive to buy right now. Sure, doesn’t NEED to be the 4.
This is my first printer and i am having the worst leveling problem it will not hold a level or level in the middle correctly and i scratched the crap out of it beacuse of it, and i kinda feel scammed bc people online are calling it "trash" but at the same time i see pro level prints on this printer please help me i actually cant take it anymore.
Yeah, when you are having your first experience with a 3D Printer, it is very difficult to identify what is wrong. You are saying it is bed leveling, but your bed could be wobbly (the wheels under it not being with the right tightened/eccentric nuts). The print head could be also wobbly and that causes everything to behave irregularly. You should watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/qNCDXdjJb90/v-deo.htmlsi=k2q0xGMAwH2bFYRB There are many things we check on the mechanics of a printer. That is not a tutorial, but will give you insights.
what slicing software are you using?
I guess I used SuperSlicer, if not, it was PrusaSlicer.
What the difff between Ender 5 S1 3D Printer vs ender 3 s1
There are a few differences - mostly structural: the Ender 5 S1 is more rigid and it promises faster speeds with less artifacts. This is because of the “cubic” frame and the fact that the print bed doesn’t move on the Y axis (it goes down as the print progresses). This is particularly nice for printing BIG, heavy parts.
4:24 I see that you run the autotune with the cooling fan off. this is common mistake, eaiest way for me is to use m106 sXXX (If you have too much cooling installed like me its smart to pid tune with the fanlevel i need for each material :) makes the process a little smoother and you get much more consistent flow. Learning things over is a good way for an old fart to stay at the level i am :) Keep making these video my 3d printing madmad :)
Very interesting! That’s definitely something that is worth investigating. Shouldn’t PID also be performed while extruding plastic? I don’t see much discussion around it. Thanks!
@@GeekDetour it should indeed be extruded at the rate you are planning to run at. Perhaps at an offset of 10-15% to compensate for irregularities that are inherant to this hobby. Im too cheap to extrude while pid tuning to be honest🙃 so i run at about 20 degrees hotter when i calibrate. Always kept my flow even., s its so even now that i am picking up vibrations from the extruderstepper. Think i maxed out on accuracy and finish i on this custom once a cr10v2. I started noticing when printing very soft tpu that i needed to recalibrate the pid. As the fanspeed varied on the model the temps went a bit up and down giving an uneven flow due me pushing the thing to its limit on feedrate. Best so far is esun 95a at 120mms and its 99% perfect on this old piece of lugs.
Also i chamfered the extrution gears toothside to about 37.5, it reduced the chatter like effect alot.
The extrusion gears are a subject that deserves more and more investigation…
@@GeekDetour like many others in this hobby i have accumulated many clones and few originals, but i got lucky finding two gears in my bin that matched well. With alot of fine machining and file and sandpaper work the gears now enter and exit each other with the least resistence and as even as i can get it so far. I too found that the locking screw offsets the gear. So i removed the stepper from the printer and filled the flat part of the shaft and increased the diameter of the shaft and ground it down with a homemade rig. The gear now has to be heated and the shaft chilled to fit them together. I used the setscrew hole as a guide to drill and tap a hole for a slightly longer setscrew to lock like a pin. This eliminated tht offset completely. The axial slop/play along the gears face do not affect extrusion👍 currently having a little fun with the old 8bit board to have the steppers run i uart instead of legacy. Them be some TINY solderpoints, but its gonna be fun
my ender 3 s1 pro sound noise when z go up and down. someone can help me how to fix
“Premium 3D printer” 😂😂 oh man..
If you tell me that a Premium Printer is a Bamboo Lab X1... I will say that's an insanely expensive printer 🤣
I can't use the m600 code either, it doesn't give me time to change the filament😢
Yeah… look, I found a video showing a working hack in Cura… he is addressing the problem and it kind of works. But it is very “hacky”: ua-cam.com/video/BZeFiAH1-bg/v-deo.htmlsi=Mqg2tta_cGXHCNdK
How do you choose between neptune 3 pro and ender 3 s1 pro?
Hi there! I am making a review of the Neptune 3 Pro, but I can share some insights here already: it is an awesome printer for the money! By having dual Z axis and a direct drive, the N3Pro is substantially better than the N3. It is a solid choice if you are trying to keep the budget low. I tried the last Beta firmware from Elegoo and it came with all I need: Linear Advance and Pause for Filament Change (the things I criticized the Ender 3 S1 Pro for not having enabled on its firmware).
The Ender 3 S1 Pro’s Sprite Extruder is still better than the Neptune 3 Pro’s extruder. Does it justify the huge difference in price? That’s something hard to decide… I always think that it is better to not spend all your budget on the printer because it is much more fun to spend a hundred bucks in different filament colors 😂
@@GeekDetour Thank you very much for replying to me. You are a good man
Ive been 3d printing for about 4 years and I've never printed a benchy. I know. I'm a freak.
Yes you are. It’s never too late to fix that 🤣