Ken it’s works great on my toro after seeing your idea..!! I did make a new hole little bit away from the old one so it stay farm on plate..!! Manufacturers ripping of on this rubber paddle..!!
FYI: Ken's adaptation will not work with the metal grommets. The nuts and bolts will tighten against the grommets and then the plates cannot grip the paddles. Looks like Toro realized they were unnecessary and removed them when they released the 4-stroke models in 2012. At the current price for new paddles, especially the extended wear version, this hack is well worth trying. Thanks Ken. I'll be trying this on my 221.
That was a clever solution to save money. I was thinking of buying used 3/8” conveyor belting to cut out on my Band Saw. Your way is much easier. Thanks for sharing a good idea!
At about the time I did this; my neighbor tried making new paddles from rubber belting for his blower. He worked very hard at trying to make it work but was never very satisfied with the results.
I planned on outlining with a new set of paddles, using a fine tooth band saw blade, the holes I would have tested with different types of drill bits. Maybe fixturing the paddle and using an endmill. The challenge was obtains the belting. I could not find any in small quantity.
QUESTION-is the electric start 110volt that needs an extension cord? Or is it 12 volt with a battery that works anywhere. I may buy one of these cheap on an online auction, to get the engine for a kids riding toy project. 4 stroke & electric start is what I want but it needs to 12 volt. I’ll be using a remote control kill switch to keep the kid out of trouble, but they need to be able to fire it up again without getting out & pulling a rope. It has the same blue control box on handlebar. I notice you started it with rope?
Paddle or fan clearance with the housing is the number one factor for throwing distance and will also reduce jamming in the discharge chute. To Beaut Ween, if you have an auger you probably have a two stage blower. Reducing the clearance to the housing will improve throwing distance. I up graded a two stage thrower a number of years ago by pop riveting pieces of rubber belting to the face of the fan paddles extending them for minimum clearance to the housing. If you have a blower with loose manufacturing tolerance on the clearance it's possible to reduce the clearance and get better throwing distance than when new. Be careful not to touch the housing with a paddle extension, that could ad friction resulting in loss of power.
wow i bought my Toro 721QZS Feb. 2015 - the first snow in lorain ohio it would not throw - it was not powdery but that should make no difference - i called where i got it - they picked it up replaced paddles & scrapper for $240 - now i must wait for next snow - i use to replace the rubbers on my other one all the time so i went to this one a little larger - i hope that was the problem now i see how you did that - might try that in 5 yrs if i'm still around me 71 MERRY CHRISTMAS
Awesome tips! My grandma just gave me her old 421qe. 👍👍👍 Unfortunately the electric starter malfunctioned and I had to remove it in order to get it started by hand.
Ken thanks for the video. Suggestion - after you install the new paddles measure the distance from the metal plate to the edge of the paddle so you know how far to extend the paddles after cutting the holes.
The metal plate left a wittiness line on the paddles, it was easy to partially tighten the bolts and pull the paddles out, eyeballing the quarter inch needed.
I have one of these blowers and they work really well. Please make video showing full replacement of the blades and scraper. My dealer charges a lot of money to replace them and I'd like to learn to do it myself. Toro now makes a heavy duty longer life paddle set..btw.
That must be what’s wrong with my Craftsman single stage. I’ve replaced the cable and the belt but still doesn’t throw like it used to. Especially the wet snow. I’ve probably got 20 hours on these blades but I do a lot of concrete driveways which I think wears the blades down more.
Sno❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️blow Seems as a very rapid degradation of distance distribution. Wish they lasted longer. Wish I could work that fast. I always drop small part and spend half an hour on a hunt. There’s that contact lens! They are a great little blower but that paddle wear is a bit of a bummer. Should be a quick easy way to fire in new paddles. The scraper bar is easy but it doesn’t really do that much anyway and it last a bit longer. The sharp edge of a new on will remind you of arthritis in your wrist when it hits a small raise in surface. I guess it needs a second stage impelling force but then cost complexity goes up. Even though short range will clear drive it’s funner to throw it thirty feet. The engine is great and doesn’t need electric start. Will start very easy at thirty below zero. 5-20 oil is good for nippy mornings. Still gives adequate film strength.
Just curious to know what happened with the steel insert bushings usually in the paddle bolt holes? Just don't have any on yours or don't bother obviously using them right??? But then again I have a 621E and 721E.
Thumbs up given, what if the blower doesn't want to throw the snow far it's jamming up in the auger but I don't want to buy any new parts. What else can i do? Tighten the pulley perhaps tighten screws grease lube spinning mechanisms?
Other than this hack that Ken has tried, I don't think there's any cheap (= no no new parts) fix for the problem you're describing. I had the same problem you're describing. I know my paddles should have been replaced a couple of years ago yet but I never got around to it. Last winter I noticed my blower's performance had deteriorated very significantly and I wasn't sure why. I used it for the first time this season in 5-6" of snow and like you describe, it was hardly thowing anything and constantly jamming up in the chute and I had to keep clearing it. I decided to check the paddles because I knew they were a wear item that had to be replaced. Mine had never been replaced in 6 seasons and when I actually looked at them they were obviously very well toasted (to put it mildly). Because we had a forecast for another dump of snow today, yesterday I made a point of going and buying a set of new paddles and installing them to be ready for today's dump. I couldn't believe the difference. Absolutely nothing was getting clogged in the chute, because as Ken described, when the paddles are wiping the walls of the intake drum very closely the way they are supposed to, the auger speed is strong and fast enough to throw anything it gets far away and just like new again. I still have to replace my scraper bar but at least my machine is throwing snow again. Next time I need to replace the paddles on my 221QE (2 cycle engine not 4 cycle) I'll keep Ken's hack in mind to try to reduce the cost.
Beaut Ween Just to add a couple more points to my story ... 1. you're probably referring to the 2 metal spacers that are pushed into the 2 holes on each paddle, that the bolts that hold the paddles onto the attachment plates go through. You need to reuse all the spacers, bolts, screws lock nuts etc. that you take off. 2. as Ken mentioned it's very awkward to attach the new paddles on the left and right sides because of the tightness on the space you have to hold the lock nut in place, while you try to get the bolt started. (It's made even more awkward because you have to work against the stiffness of the new paddles working against your pressure trying to get the bolt started on the lock nut). What worked best for me was 1st struggling with getting the bolts on the left and right side started, before working toward the center for the 6 other bolts. 3. If you google 'toro 3362-541' you'll see the parts manual and assembly diagrams for my machine and it will likely look the same as yours ... but double check by googling the parts manual for your specific Model #. 4. I'm located in Toronto and the prices of the parts here in Canada are significantly more expensive than in the US. I got my parts at a handly small engine repair place (that also sells outdoor equipment and stocks common parts). I paid $CAD 44 each for the paddles (ouch), but I knew I had to get the job done asap, regardless of the cost :-( Good luck
Ken thank you for the video. I have some questions I have an older snowblower than yours it is a single stage with paddles also a Toro. I bought mine for $40 I could not even test it before I brought it home anyhow I got it running and used it to do mine and some of my neighbors driveways. I noticed a couple things the first night there was about eight inches of powder and everything seemed like it worked really well there were some real highspots and when I would hit those specially if the street plows had plowed the ends of the driveways in sometimes I would hear a little belt squeal and I noticed my handle moves very easily. does the Belt have a lot to do with how far the snow is being thrown or not. the other question that I have I am not quite to the holes on my paddles about an eighth of an inch off if I check the distance of my paddles to the scraper I can get my fingers in between the paddle in the scraper but when I keep turning the paddle I cannot get my fingers between the paddles and the wall of the drum. The videos all say you should not be able to get your fingers between the scraper and the paddles but I noticed you were checking the paddle distance at the drum which makes more sense to me especially since I am not to my wear holes yet. In a 3 in snow my blower is hardly throwing it any distance at all unless I let it move really fast. should I be measuring the paddle to the drum or to the scraper and what do you think about the fact that I am not to my wear holes yet. it scrapes the ground well it just does not throw it well unless I have more volume of snow thanks have you made any videos showing how to do the belts and handle adjustments also I see that you can buy very cheap paddles or more expensive original parts do you have any experience or an opinion on that thank you Simonl
Ken thank you for the video. I have some questions I have an older snowblower than yours it is a single stage with paddles also a Toro. I bought mine for $40 I could not even test it before I brought it home anyhow I got it running and used it you do mine and some of my neighbors driveways I noticed a couple things the first night there is about eight inch of powder and everything seemed like it worked really well there were some real highspots and when I would hit those specially if the street plows had plowed the ends of the driveways in sometimes I would hear a little belt squeal and I noticed my handle moves very easily. Does the Belt have a lot to do with how far snow is thrown or not. Answer: You may hear a little belt slip as you engage the paddles but there should be no slippage during normal operation. Your belt may be worn, or in need of tension adjustment. The other question that I have; I am not quite to the holes on my paddles, about an eighth of an inch off if I check the distance of my paddles to the scraper. Answer: All things considered, within an eight inch of remaining wear area the blower should throw snow reasonably well. I can get my fingers in between the paddle in the scraper but when I keep turning the paddle, I cannot get my fingers between the paddles and the wall of the drum. The videos all say you should not be able to get your fingers between the scraper and the paddles. But I noticed you were checking the paddle distance at the drum which makes more sense to me especially since I am not to my wear holes yet. Answer: The distance between the paddles and the scraper determines how well the surface will be cleared. The distance from the housing determines how well the snow will be thrown. It's a snow thrower not a broom. In a 3 in snow my blower is hardly throwing it any distance at all unless I let it move “really fast”. Should I be measuring the paddle to the drum or two the scraper and what do you think about the fact that I am not to my wear holes yet. it scrapes the ground well it just does not throw it well unless I have more volume of snow thanks. Answer: Minimum clearance between the paddles and the housing improves performance in light snow. In light snow conditions the snow may fall between the paddles and the housing and not achieve required velocity for ejection from the machine. With greater snow value the snow on the paddles will impart velocity to that wisp of snow following the curve of the housing. Have you made any videos showing how to do the belts and handle adjustments. Answer: See www.toro.com/getpub/45232 for adjusting the control cable. Also, I see that you can buy very cheap paddles or more expensive original parts do you have any experience or an opinion on that thank you Simon Answer: I have only used original equipment manufacturers parts.
@@kbittell Ken thank you for the answers I could not get that link that you left to work but that aside does the control cable to the handle have anything to do with the belt tension I assumed that the belt was self tensioning am I wrong on that and if so how do I learn to tighten the belt. Also was wondering how you know when the belt is shot thanks again for all your answers and all your time Simon PS I was quite thrilled that I got it started and I've already gotten my $40 out of it helping my neighbor's out. the squealing was when I would hit high plowed snow it was very high and I would tip the snow blower up take a swipe lower take a swipe kind of like you do with tall grass and a push mower. Every once in awhile I would here's squeal if I it's something hard or too high but overall it seems like it's working I don't think the cable tension is very tight but I wasn't sure what that had to do with anything as long as the paddles go around. What does the cable tension actually do.
@@simonkenton5927 Go to www.toro.com, search for an owners user manual for your snow blower. The manual should have instructions for tensioning the Belt.
That depends, if it's a 4 cycle like mine use the same fuel you use in your car. If it's a two cycle it requires a mix of gasoline and two cycle oil. If it's electric, use an extension cord.
There are steel inserts that go in those holes that were cut. Need to put the steel inserts from the old paddles back in the holes That is an unsafe way to install the paddles at the RPM that turns I wouldn't trust it They are probably out of alignment because they are installed wrong
Actually if it does have steel or metal grommets just removing those could pick up an 1/8 of an inch Then you could just take a drill bit on the bottom of the whole and pick up another 1/16 Re install the bolts with no grommets lift up when tightening and Boom Dare it iz.
Ken's adaptation will not work with the metal grommets. The nuts and bolts will tighten against the grommets and then the plates cannot grip the paddles. At the current price for new paddles, especially the extended wear version, this hack is well worth trying. Thanks Ken. I'll be trying this on my 221.
@@ralphfraumeni6190 my paddles lasted so long that buying a new set (3) didn’t bother me I’m in the Northeast so we get plenty of snow in the winter. I think they lasted so long ( almost 20 yrs ) because the snowblower was only used on a paved driveway. You are right about the grommets they will not allow you to really torque down on the pads.
Trying to replace paddles on a Toro 418. What tool do I need to turn the bolt head on the bolts going through the paddle? I have tried to simply remove the nut but the bolt simply turns and does not release the nut. Thanks
I The screws on my machine are Torx 25 for the outer fasteners. If you're planning to pull up the center of the paddles don't remove the outer screws. Work with just the center fasteners. My center fasteners are hex head and hex nuts.
You may have some luck with losing the fastener without the Trox driver by wedging a screw driver blade between the the rubber paddle and the mounting plate. If you can increase the friction between the paddle and the screw head maybe the nut will loosen.
at that price you're buying cheap aftermarket that will wear out in one season,Genuine Toro will last many years.i have 5 of these Toros,and have tried aftermarket a few times,all were JUNK,same for non OEM scrapper blades,LOL.not even one season on them,you can cheap out and do what this guy did,but not worth it,put new OEM paddles and scrapper and you'll be good good foe many many years,hearing the paddles rubbing all over the places on this guy;s blower was hilarious,notice that doing what he's doing ONLY moves out the middle of the blades,everywhere else they are still just as worn out as they were before,ONLY when you put new blades will you ACTUALLY a great difference and your machine will be working like new again,
@@mariomartin1981 point is to extend the life...30mins for an extra season or even half season for the typical homeowner is worth it...in a commercial setting-one must weigh the time/money cost differently
I wouldnt ever recommend doing this to any machine. By extending the holes you might gain what, one season? That scraper is shot, eather way. The belt is probably stretched out too. No, they offer a cobo package on these things, just do that. For the ammount of work, it doesnt seem like a great Idea. The holes should be punched, not drilled through the paddle anyways.
I don’t agree. Extended paddles have 80% of the life of new ones. If the scraper where replaced at the same time that life may be 100% of new. My belt has never slipped and never been replaced. The design of the 421 QE makes it easy to undue just four bolts at the center of the paddles, slot the holes to the nearest edge with diagonal cutters and reassemble with the paddle extended. (Not everyone has that large of a hole punch to make new holes.) This avoids the difficulty with limited access to the fastener on the left side paddle attachment. Earlier snow blows had metal bushings in the center holes preventing the center mounting plates from gripping the paddle. The bushings are not needed.
You said it Ken I was a Navy Seabee in my younger years. Every once in awhile we had to politely encourage an engineer to come out to an actual job site to learn why what they drew on paper wouldn't work in reality. Their eyes would get like a child seeing Santa Claus for the first time. But as long as you didn't shame them you probably made a good friend for life.
Yes, it works fine and the beauty is the paddles can be adjusted a second and a third time for nearly triple the life.
Ken it’s works great on my toro after seeing your idea..!! I did make a new hole little bit away from the old one so it stay farm on plate..!! Manufacturers ripping of on this rubber paddle..!!
Just replaced mine two days ago. I wish I saw your video. What a great idea to avoid replacing!
Paul Stevens u
If you spray the impeller housing inside with silicone spray things will slide alot easier and smoother.
FYI: Ken's adaptation will not work with the metal grommets. The nuts and bolts will tighten against the grommets and then the plates cannot grip the paddles. Looks like Toro realized they were unnecessary and removed them when they released the 4-stroke models in 2012. At the current price for new paddles, especially the extended wear version, this hack is well worth trying. Thanks Ken. I'll be trying this on my 221.
That was a clever solution to save money. I was thinking of buying used 3/8” conveyor
belting to cut out on my Band Saw. Your way is much easier. Thanks for sharing a good idea!
At about the time I did this; my neighbor tried making new paddles from rubber belting for his blower. He worked very hard at trying to make it work but was never very satisfied with the results.
I planned on outlining with a new set of paddles, using a fine tooth band saw blade,
the holes I would have tested with different types of drill bits. Maybe fixturing the paddle
and using an endmill. The challenge was obtains the belting. I could not find any in small quantity.
QUESTION-is the electric start 110volt that needs an extension cord? Or is it 12 volt with a battery that works anywhere. I may buy one of these cheap on an online auction, to get the engine for a kids riding toy project. 4 stroke & electric start is what I want but it needs to 12 volt. I’ll be using a remote control kill switch to keep the kid out of trouble, but they need to be able to fire it up again without getting out & pulling a rope. It has the same blue control box on handlebar. I notice you started it with rope?
Paddle or fan clearance with the housing is the number one factor for throwing distance and will also reduce jamming in the discharge chute. To Beaut Ween, if you have an auger you probably have a two stage blower. Reducing the clearance to the housing will improve throwing distance. I up graded a two stage thrower a number of years ago by pop riveting pieces of rubber belting to the face of the fan paddles extending them for minimum clearance to the housing. If you have a blower with loose manufacturing tolerance on the clearance it's possible to reduce the clearance and get better throwing distance than when new. Be careful not to touch the housing with a paddle extension, that could ad friction resulting in loss of power.
If paddle extensios are to long they will wear and conform to chute very quickly.
wow i bought my Toro 721QZS Feb. 2015 - the first snow in lorain ohio it would not throw - it was not powdery but that should make no difference - i called where i got it - they picked it up replaced paddles & scrapper for $240 - now i must wait for next snow - i use to replace the rubbers on my other one all the time so i went to this one a little larger - i hope that was the problem now i see how you did that - might try that in 5 yrs if i'm still around me 71 MERRY CHRISTMAS
Awesome tips! My grandma just gave me her old 421qe. 👍👍👍 Unfortunately the electric starter malfunctioned and I had to remove it in order to get it started by hand.
I've has no problems with my electric starter. Thankyou for your comments.
Ken thanks for the video. Suggestion - after you install the new paddles measure the distance from the metal plate to the edge of the paddle so you know how far to extend the paddles after cutting the holes.
The metal plate left a wittiness line on the paddles, it was easy to partially tighten the bolts and pull the paddles out, eyeballing the quarter inch needed.
I have one of these blowers and they work really well. Please make video showing full replacement of the blades and scraper. My dealer charges a lot of money to replace them and I'd like to learn to do it myself. Toro now makes a heavy duty longer life paddle set..btw.
That must be what’s wrong with my Craftsman single stage. I’ve replaced the cable and the belt but still doesn’t throw like it used to. Especially the wet snow. I’ve probably got 20 hours on these blades but I do a lot of concrete driveways which I think wears the blades down more.
What a fantastic idea Ken thanks a lot I will be trying this today👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great idea, did it hold up ok?
Good to know but I think I would of added some sort of Star washer to make sure that the vibration does not cause any movement.
Sno❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️blow
Seems as a very rapid degradation of distance distribution. Wish they lasted longer.
Wish I could work that fast. I always drop small part and spend half an hour on a hunt.
There’s that contact lens!
They are a great little blower but that paddle wear is a bit of a bummer. Should be a quick easy way to fire in new paddles. The scraper bar is easy but it doesn’t really do that much anyway and it last a bit longer. The sharp edge of a new on will remind you of arthritis in your wrist when it hits a small raise in surface.
I guess it needs a second stage impelling force but then cost complexity goes up.
Even though short range will clear drive it’s funner to throw it thirty feet.
The engine is great and doesn’t need electric start. Will start very easy at thirty below zero. 5-20 oil is good for nippy mornings. Still gives adequate film strength.
Just curious to know what happened with the steel insert bushings usually in the paddle bolt holes? Just don't have any on yours or don't bother obviously using them right??? But then again I have a 621E and 721E.
My machine didn't have any bushings, if it had bushings I would have discarded them.
This is great Ken, thanks for posting!!! Did you see a need to also elongate the side bolts or were the center ones you elongated good enough?
Slotting the sides is not necessary. Slotting the sides would be difficult and require the proper torx driver
You had a ton of snow waiting for a demonstration of distance...what happened ??
It snowed then I cleared the driveway. Worked great.
How did this end up working out for you? How much time did it extend if it did indeed work?
This will be the second season (2016-17) with the adjusted paddles. I have new paddles on hand but don't expect to need them till next season.
Thumbs up given, what if the blower doesn't want to throw the snow far it's jamming up in the auger but I don't want to buy any new parts. What else can i do? Tighten the pulley perhaps tighten screws grease lube spinning mechanisms?
Other than this hack that Ken has tried, I don't think there's any cheap (= no no new parts) fix for the problem you're describing. I had the same problem you're describing. I know my paddles should have been replaced a couple of years ago yet but I never got around to it. Last winter I noticed my blower's performance had deteriorated very significantly and I wasn't sure why. I used it for the first time this season in 5-6" of snow and like you describe, it was hardly thowing anything and constantly jamming up in the chute and I had to keep clearing it. I decided to check the paddles because I knew they were a wear item that had to be replaced. Mine had never been replaced in 6 seasons and when I actually looked at them they were obviously very well toasted (to put it mildly). Because we had a forecast for another dump of snow today, yesterday I made a point of going and buying a set of new paddles and installing them to be ready for today's dump. I couldn't believe the difference. Absolutely nothing was getting clogged in the chute, because as Ken described, when the paddles are wiping the walls of the intake drum very closely the way they are supposed to, the auger speed is strong and fast enough to throw anything it gets far away and just like new again. I still have to replace my scraper bar but at least my machine is throwing snow again.
Next time I need to replace the paddles on my 221QE (2 cycle engine not 4 cycle) I'll keep Ken's hack in mind to try to reduce the cost.
When paddles are replaced the scraper should also be replaced. For my Toro, parts are available online, hadrware stores and dealers.
Beaut Ween Just to add a couple more points to my story ...
1. you're probably referring to the 2 metal spacers that are pushed into the 2 holes on each paddle, that the bolts that hold the paddles onto the attachment plates go through. You need to reuse all the spacers, bolts, screws lock nuts etc. that you take off.
2. as Ken mentioned it's very awkward to attach the new paddles on the left and right sides because of the tightness on the space you have to hold the lock nut in place, while you try to get the bolt started. (It's made even more awkward because you have to work against the stiffness of the new paddles working against your pressure trying to get the bolt started on the lock nut). What worked best for me was 1st struggling with getting the bolts on the left and right side started, before working toward the center for the 6 other bolts.
3. If you google 'toro 3362-541' you'll see the parts manual and assembly diagrams for my machine and it will likely look the same as yours ... but double check by googling the parts manual for your specific Model #.
4. I'm located in Toronto and the prices of the parts here in Canada are significantly more expensive than in the US. I got my parts at a handly small engine repair place (that also sells outdoor equipment and stocks common parts). I paid $CAD 44 each for the paddles (ouch), but I knew I had to get the job done asap, regardless of the cost :-(
Good luck
@@MrJohnTubeYou Amazon.ca $20ea next/two day delivery...
Ken thank you for the video. I have some questions I have an older snowblower than yours it is a single stage with paddles also a Toro. I bought mine for $40 I could not even test it before I brought it home anyhow I got it running and used it to do mine and some of my neighbors driveways. I noticed a couple things the first night there was about eight inches of powder and everything seemed like it worked really well there were some real highspots and when I would hit those specially if the street plows had plowed the ends of the driveways in sometimes I would hear a little belt squeal and I noticed my handle moves very easily. does the Belt have a lot to do with how far the snow is being thrown or not. the other question that I have I am not quite to the holes on my paddles about an eighth of an inch off if I check the distance of my paddles to the scraper I can get my fingers in between the paddle in the scraper but when I keep turning the paddle I cannot get my fingers between the paddles and the wall of the drum. The videos all say you should not be able to get your fingers between the scraper and the paddles but I noticed you were checking the paddle distance at the drum which makes more sense to me especially since I am not to my wear holes yet. In a 3 in snow my blower is hardly throwing it any distance at all unless I let it move really fast. should I be measuring the paddle to the drum or to the scraper and what do you think about the fact that I am not to my wear holes yet. it scrapes the ground well it just does not throw it well unless I have more volume of snow thanks have you made any videos showing how to do the belts and handle adjustments also I see that you can buy very cheap paddles or more expensive original parts do you have any experience or an opinion on that thank you Simonl
Ken thank you for the video. I have some questions I have an older snowblower than yours it is a single stage with paddles also a Toro. I bought mine for $40 I could not even test it before I brought it home anyhow I got it running and used it you do mine and some of my neighbors driveways I noticed a couple things the first night there is about eight inch of powder and everything seemed like it worked really well there were some real highspots and when I would hit those specially if the street plows had plowed the ends of the driveways in sometimes I would hear a little belt squeal and I noticed my handle moves very easily. Does the Belt have a lot to do with how far snow is thrown or not.
Answer: You may hear a little belt slip as you engage the paddles but there should be no slippage during normal operation. Your belt may be worn, or in need of tension adjustment.
The other question that I have; I am not quite to the holes on my paddles, about an eighth of an inch off if I check the distance of my paddles to the scraper.
Answer: All things considered, within an eight inch of remaining wear area the blower should throw snow reasonably well.
I can get my fingers in between the paddle in the scraper but when I keep turning the paddle, I cannot get my fingers between the paddles and the wall of the drum. The videos all say you should not be able to get your fingers between the scraper and the paddles. But I noticed you were checking the paddle distance at the drum which makes more sense to me especially since I am not to my wear holes yet.
Answer: The distance between the paddles and the scraper determines how well the surface will be cleared. The distance from the housing determines how well the snow will be thrown. It's a snow thrower not a broom.
In a 3 in snow my blower is hardly throwing it any distance at all unless I let it move “really fast”. Should I be measuring the paddle to the drum or two the scraper and what do you think about the fact that I am not to my wear holes yet. it scrapes the ground well it just does not throw it well unless I have more volume of snow thanks.
Answer: Minimum clearance between the paddles and the housing improves performance in light snow. In light snow conditions the snow may fall between the paddles and the housing and not achieve required velocity for ejection from the machine. With greater snow value the snow on the paddles will impart velocity to that wisp of snow following the curve of the housing.
Have you made any videos showing how to do the belts and handle adjustments.
Answer: See www.toro.com/getpub/45232 for adjusting the control cable.
Also, I see that you can buy very cheap paddles or more expensive original parts do you have any experience or an opinion on that thank you Simon
Answer: I have only used original equipment manufacturers parts.
@@kbittell Ken thank you for the answers I could not get that link that you left to work but that aside does the control cable to the handle have anything to do with the belt tension I assumed that the belt was self tensioning am I wrong on that and if so how do I learn to tighten the belt. Also was wondering how you know when the belt is shot thanks again for all your answers and all your time Simon PS I was quite thrilled that I got it started and I've already gotten my $40 out of it helping my neighbor's out. the squealing was when I would hit high plowed snow it was very high and I would tip the snow blower up take a swipe lower take a swipe kind of like you do with tall grass and a push mower. Every once in awhile I would here's squeal if I it's something hard or too high but overall it seems like it's working I don't think the cable tension is very tight but I wasn't sure what that had to do with anything as long as the paddles go around. What does the cable tension actually do.
@@simonkenton5927 Go to www.toro.com, search for an owners user manual for your snow blower. The manual should have instructions for tensioning the Belt.
Tks ken
I messed mine up (cut the opening too wide). I need a washer to fix the opening
What kind of gas should I use in Toro snowblower?
That depends, if it's a 4 cycle like mine use the same fuel you use in your car. If it's a two cycle it requires a mix of gasoline and two cycle oil. If it's electric, use an extension cord.
There are steel inserts that go in those holes that were cut. Need to put the steel inserts from the old paddles back in the holes That is an unsafe way to install the paddles at the RPM that turns I wouldn't trust it They are probably out of alignment because they are installed wrong
Some machines have insert. This one does not. It is not a problem.
Actually if it does have steel or metal grommets just removing those could pick up an 1/8 of an inch
Then you could just take a drill bit on the bottom of the whole and pick up another 1/16
Re install the bolts with no grommets lift up when tightening and Boom Dare it iz.
Ken's adaptation will not work with the metal grommets. The nuts and bolts will tighten against the grommets and then the plates cannot grip the paddles. At the current price for new paddles, especially the extended wear version, this hack is well worth trying. Thanks Ken. I'll be trying this on my 221.
@@ralphfraumeni6190 my paddles lasted so long that buying a new set (3) didn’t bother me
I’m in the Northeast so we get plenty of snow in the winter.
I think they lasted so long ( almost 20 yrs ) because the snowblower was only used on a paved driveway.
You are right about the grommets they will not allow you to really torque down on the pads.
Trying to replace paddles on a Toro 418. What tool do I need to turn the bolt head on the bolts going through the paddle? I have tried to simply remove the nut but the bolt simply turns and does not release the nut. Thanks
I The screws on my machine are Torx 25 for the outer fasteners. If you're planning to pull up the center of the paddles don't remove the outer screws. Work with just the center fasteners. My center fasteners are hex head and hex nuts.
You may have some luck with losing the fastener without the Trox driver by wedging a screw driver blade between the the rubber paddle and the mounting plate. If you can increase the friction between the paddle and the screw head maybe the nut will loosen.
@@kbittell I will first try this
You are buying paddles and scraper at the wrong place.I just bought all for $38 with free shipping.
brunswick30robert Where did you purchase?
Bought from mowandsnow on Ebay $37.88.
Thank you.
Thank you!
I went on ebay and paid only 40.00 for belt, paddles and scraper.
Yep,about right. Amazon had a special $43. A day later, same place $50. What the hell?
at that price you're buying cheap aftermarket that will wear out in one season,Genuine Toro will last many years.i have 5 of these Toros,and have tried aftermarket a few times,all were JUNK,same for non OEM scrapper blades,LOL.not even one season on them,you can cheap out and do what this guy did,but not worth it,put new OEM paddles and scrapper and you'll be good good foe many many years,hearing the paddles rubbing all over the places on this guy;s blower was hilarious,notice that doing what he's doing ONLY moves out the middle of the blades,everywhere else they are still just as worn out as they were before,ONLY when you put new blades will you ACTUALLY a great difference and your machine will be working like new again,
@@mariomartin1981 point is to extend the life...30mins for an extra season or even half season for the typical homeowner is worth it...in a commercial setting-one must weigh the time/money cost differently
I wouldnt ever recommend doing this to any machine. By extending the holes you might gain what, one season? That scraper is shot, eather way. The belt is probably stretched out too. No, they offer a cobo package on these things, just do that. For the ammount of work, it doesnt seem like a great Idea. The holes should be punched, not drilled through the paddle anyways.
I don’t agree. Extended paddles have 80% of the life of new ones. If the scraper where replaced at the same time that life may be 100% of new. My belt has never slipped and never been replaced. The design of the 421 QE makes it easy to undue just four bolts at the center of the paddles, slot the holes to the nearest edge with diagonal cutters and reassemble with the paddle extended. (Not everyone has that large of a hole punch to make new holes.) This avoids the difficulty with limited access to the fastener on the left side paddle attachment. Earlier snow blows had metal bushings in the center holes preventing the center mounting plates from gripping the paddle. The bushings are not needed.
p
Never ever alter a proven engineered part. This is insane.
I take it you are not an engineer and not qualified to make such a claim.
You said it Ken I was a Navy Seabee in my younger years. Every once in awhile we had to politely encourage an engineer to come out to an actual job site to learn why what they drew on paper wouldn't work in reality. Their eyes would get like a child seeing Santa Claus for the first time. But as long as you didn't shame them you probably made a good friend for life.