GM Power Door Lock Actuator Rebuild...
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- In this video, I go through the entire process of removal, cleaning, refurbishment, and testing of a GM power door lock actuator. This actuator is used from the 1970's through the middle 90's and possibly longer.
The actuator locks and unlocks the doors when you press the remote keyfob buttons; or when you press the manual "lock / unlock all doors" switches on the interior door panels.
The actuator is a DC permanent magnet motor, with rack and pinion mechanism. It is not a solenoid.
Hope you guys like this one. It got longer than I had planned, but I wanted to show all the steps.
You are a smart guy, that is what I call knowing how to save money thank you god bless you
Glad to help, thanks!
One of the most educational and clear videos on UA-cam. Fabulous. Thank you so much!
Excellent; thanks for the positive feedback!
Thanks, I was going to spend money on a new actuator and even a switch but after using your guide my c3 locks both work. I salute you and God bless
This is one of the best, step by step videos out there! Thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks well done..mine moved but intermittent glitchy if helped. Cleaned brushes, stator contact, without splitting case as it was not frozen..works perfect, i could reach nuts so no need to weld...blue thread locker and lockwasher...79 corvette
Excellent! Glad it helped you.
Thank you for your video,I have that problem and I going to fix my thank again
Glad it helped
Excellent video, I know now what the problem is with my passenger door lock
Very informative unlike many other videos on youtube that are just one minute long.
Thanks for the comment! Yep this actuator rebuild wasn't a one minute job! :)
Great idea using the test light! Can't beat a test light for a simple, yet powerful tool. I'll have to remember that trick.
Wires breaking in the door boot was a big problem for 80s and early 90s VW/Audi products. My 88 Audi 5000 had at least 8 broken wires in that boot. There were a ton of wires going to the driver's door between the 4 power windows, radio, mirrors, power seat memory, and lock controls.
Thanks for the very informative video. it's nice to see someone that can and will do a rebuild rather than a replacement. also, nice to watch someone else using a drill, drill press, and pin vise in combination to accomplish the end means. don't know what i would have done without them. I'm working on one myself now, i have an
Astro Van and have rebuild the door handle on both front doors, one has a bad actuator so i'll get a chance to use these methods to finish my repairs. wish i could find one showing the repairs to the dutch doors on the rear of the van but i'm sure i'll get it figured out. Thanks again for a fantastic video showing a true rebuild.
Hi Don. Thanks for the positive comment! I'm sure you'll get your Astro door mechanisms working as good as new before long!
I have one in my Astro van that needs attention and now I know, but if I never used the knowledge I learned how they work which was my intention in the first place. You put out a quality video, I've spent several hours trying to get some automotive related info tonight and still haven't got it. The focus goes in and out and and the point of view darts around like a squirrel on meth. So much for watching some guys how to vids. Thanks for an informative, well done video that I never intended to learn the subject of, but now I'm damned glad I did
Thanks Howard. Very pleased you found my video useful. I am different from many of the other UA-cam 'car video' people. I post what I have learned works, through my own experiences. It doesn't matter how many people watch the videos I post, just so long as some folks are helped by them.
I know what you mean about channels having differing opinions, making much chatter and little action, and being riddled with buzz words but no actual content. This has frustrated me so much in the past. Some of these channels are just trying to get views and ad hits, so they put on a good show with little useful content.
I admire you (A person that does true repair & not merely replacement) with the great job you did here, both for your self and then making this well organized video clip to help others. Its only people like you that can truly keep this country Great, Again or as Ever! not the empty promises and nonsense words of pee head politicians...
When using that blower, its nice if you could use one of those cheap head band LED lights that can provide ample illumination for video, yet don't handicap you, by virtue of not involving any hand. Try it for your next video, when light is needed.
Very well done.
BTW you must be a magician cuz @09:42 you dropped a small part of the interior (?brush) but soon in next clip @09:50 it was disappeared! :)
Keep up the great work and you have a thumbs up & another subscriber.
LOL at the magician comment! It was just that I cut out some 'dead time' in the video and apparently I had moved that piece.
Thanks for the positive comment about my repairs. I do not believe in the Throw-Away society as we are becoming dependent upon things which can be taken away from us without notice. That's a bad dependency for sure.
I do have a headband LED light but it seems to be an issue with the camera. May get another better one soon.
Thank you for sharing . I did the same process but the moter still does not have no power. Great video 🙂👍.
That is frustrating. More than likely, the relay or a circuit breaker is not operating correctly.
@@davida1hiwaaynet thank you for replying . It does activate but it does not have power enough to unlock or lock the door o well 💁🏻♂️ I want to coment that your video is the best explain one on out in UA-cam thank you for sharing the process step-by-step it was very helpful once again thank you from Mexico will de watching more of your videos 🙂👍🙌👍.
Awesome video! Thanks
This was a grate video thank you for sharing the whole process.
thank you very much very good vido good explanation . very clear accurate .
Great video , ill be doing my two front doors as they havent been working since I bought the van.. Thanks !
Great video i can now know why the door lock on my c4 only move half way will get it out tomorrow and repair it thanks to your video
Thank you for the positive comment! Very happy this helped you.
Dude great video!!!! Thanks!!!
Thanks, glad you found it helpful!
that's gonna be useful info! I have a 1992 gmc k2500 pickup I'm repairing that has this kind of symptoms and it might have these motors in the doors. I'll give it a shot!
Thanks for doing this video, saved me the trouble to find out what is inside. The video would be better if you could do a test segment that shows how much weight can be lifted from full down and pushed up using weights or spring scale for a normally working unit post repair. The television show wheeler dealer (Ed China) did a video segment how to engineer to add power door locks to an old car that was being restored that didn't have power door locks. Ed used weights to figure out how much power was needed to lock or unlock the doors and to prove the units had enough power to lock and unlock before he installed the hardware. My 94 Chevy Astro van sliding side door does not work all the time and I paid a shop and they replaced the actuator with a new one, but not working any better. I checked the electrical power and its good so my next step is to remove the latch and clean it and lubricate and reassemble and hope it works. Must be a better way to troubleshoot this problem.
Thanks man for all your effort , I have the same problem on my Chevy , Thumbs up
Very detailed and thorough!
Thanks for posting this!
Great informative video!!!
Thanks!
To take this to the next level instead of welding the nuts on, just silver solder them. Make a ring of solder by wrapping it around a phillips screwdriver. Then coat the bracket and nut with flux. Stack everything up little shot of heat and you get a professional job. It's also something any guy could do.
The actuator is pretty expensive at the parts store (~$50, 9/1/18) and very inexpensive online (2 for $24.00 on Ebay) but you have to wait for shipping. I came across your video after going to the junk yard. They has at least ten Astro-Safaris. I was shocked when ALL of the door actuators read either high resistance or open. Figured brushes had to be the problem and your video confirmed it. GREAT JOB! I come from a "one man" TV shop background where we used to pick through windings to find the break so I'll probably skip waiting for a new one and just rebuild mine. THANKS!
Question: Any reason you can't just use a 1/4" drive 1/4" socket and skip drilling out the rivets? Has to be done by "braille" but it should be possible, at least on Astro-Safaris.
Hmm I found 4 good ones at junkyard i'd like to get off a 86 Oldsmobile cutlass ciera Brougham Model. They all 4 worked tested them with a drill battery to see but just gotta go drill them out an grab them before car gets crushed . I've already stripped and swapped the redish leather interior over to my 87 celebrity Eurosport from that car
It also had power windows that i want too but since mine didn't come with them I can't use it which sucks since they all worked perfectly
A Very, Very informative video. Very nicely done. I'm a another subscriber now. Keep up the great work davida1hiwaaynet. I think you helped out more than some folks. [A lot of folks]!
Peace!
Thanks! Glad you find my videos useful!
@@davida1hiwaaynet , I followed your instructions to a tee and my actuators work but, they don't seem to produce enough power to open and close the locks. I oiled the door locks and other mechanisms, and the switches are working too, but still no luck. I tested them without the door paneling on, so it's not being obstructed any kind of ways. Do you think it could be in my door wiring? Any ideas what it could be?
Thanks in advance,
Peace!
Hey, sorry you're having trouble with the lock mechanism.
It could be voltage drop due to wiring, but that would be sort of unlikely. It seems that the wiring usually going to break completely all at once.
I've had many cars where even new actuators won't move the door mechanism. It seems they are just powerful enough to move a perfectly free and good-condition door lock mechanism.
In the past, I have had to remove the mechanism from the door, (3 Torx bolts around the latch opening where the striker goes in) and clean it with solvent; dry it, and then lubricate it with chain and cable lube.
Another possible binding point is the "bellcrank" mechanism where the actuator linkage connects to the manual lock button linkage. That often gets stiff. Also, I usually take the spring off from that part as well, so that the actuator doesn't have that extra resistance to work against.
Hope this helps!
davida1hiwaaynet , I'll give that a try and if it works, I'll post it for others who may need the help as well. Thanks again for very informative information. Keep up the great works helping people. I'm about the same things. [Solving problems and helping other people and all living things. Trying to produce Justice for all people].
Peace!
great info and video
Funny how GM's door actuators don't ever work, I wanted to watch a rebuild for a 2013 Impala's actuator but didn't realize this is for an old GM. Although it does seem that this part is of better quality seeing how it lasted longer than whatever ACchina part is inside Impala doors.
So much easier to deal with then the awful ones in my Volvo that work/don't work depending on outside temp.
I never sold any of those used, just ACDelco replacement units. I don't think anyone refurbishes them commercially either.
Hi David, any updates to this procedure since you made this video? Can you provide a link to get the boot you use? Thank you very much for the video!
I think I will just buy a new one! LOL
Be thankful if you can get a new one. Some day there won't be any more new ones. :(
👌👌👍👍
Have you worked on a later model unit? I have one out of my 2004 Astro van, everything is the same except for the fuse. Mine is not glass, it's two metal electrodes that are somehow bonded together. By doing a continuity test, that's where the break in electrical flow is and why my unit is not working. I've never seen this type of fuse (circuit breaker) before. The metal halves are still bonded, by no continuity from one side to the other. I doubt I can replace them??? Maybe the ole make a field fuse with chewing gum foil? oy....Any suggestions?
David, did you ever find a source for the bellows? if not can you share where you got the one in this video? thanks!
Hi Taylor. I never found a source for these, but I haven't done much additional searching. The one I had in this video was in a large buy of mixed and unpackaged random hardware. I have no idea what it would be for, by application. Thanks for your comment, though.
David, after watching this video, I think I got religion concerning the dew wipes on my doors of my car. Definitely a priority now. Did GM use the same actuator design across their car/truck lines for a period of time? Would all the a-body cars use this actuator? I didn't catch it, but what acid did you use for the spring clean up? Thanks!
I think that all the A-cars used these. I haven't see everything - but I have never run across ANY GM car of the 80's and 90's era which didn't have these.
It was aluminum brightener. That's a commercial blend of acids and surfactants. Not sure exactly what is in it but it works well!
At the end where you test the actuator are connecting the alligator clips( the green and the black) to the same terminal on the actuator?
One clip went to one terminal on the actuator. If both clips went to one terminal on the actuator, it would have created short circuit.
What did you use for the umbrella seal boot?
What size bolt and nuts did you use. I have no way to weld if I use a rivet what size should it be? Thanx
One picture of a commercially available unit showed Tinnerman wrap around (U-style) nuts. That should work well.