5 Common Electrical Panel Mistakes
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Electric Pro Academy - Real Skills to make real money.
Synopsis:
Joel continues to highlight some best practices pertaining to electrical panels and some errors left behind by a previous sub-contractor, particularly an incompatibility breaker, debris inside the panel, and mediocre mounting practices.
Laced within the technical instruction are recommendations and points of professionalism employed daily by Jefferson Electric masters, journeymen, & apprentices.
If the instruction in this video is unclear or skew to what you are searching for, feel free to comment below for additional assistance. Got a question or ideas for a future video? Leave a comment below and submit your idea here: forms.clickup.com/f/23xa9-70/...
Thank you for watching; we value your feedback and monitor this channel daily.
Products We’d Recommend:
[] Blunt, machine-threaded screws: www.homedepot.com/p/8-32-x-7-...
[] Electrical Panel Cable Clamp Connectors (Available in different sizes): www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-8...
National Electrical Code (NEC) referenced in this video:
Free Access Here: www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standa...
[] Electrical Equipment Listing & Labeling [NEC 110.3(B)]
Outline:
0:00 - Introduction
0:12 - Breaker Compatibility
0:38 - Foreign Objects
0:59 - Bushings (Good & Bad)
2:08 - Proper Cover Fasteners
2:54 - Proper Panel Mounting
Connect With Us:
Jefferson Electric services residential, commercial, solar, and Tesla systems in Indianapolis, IN.
www.jeffersonelectricllc.com/
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As a 40 + year electrician the thing that really bothers me is guys who trim the wires to the exact length when terminating to the breakers, and then bundling the wires so tightly that troubleshooting individual wires is impossible. A service panel will probably last 40 years or more and many modifications are going to take place after you are long gone. Circuits will be added, breakers replaced and loads will get moved around. Also, the heating and cooling of conductors will cause them to expand and contract, allow for this movement. Always, always, always leave an extra loop of wire inside the panel. Run the wire down past it's breaker a few inches and then come back up to terminate. Trimming a panel isn't an art contest, it's all about function, safety and future servicing. The need for splicing wires in a service panel because they are too short is bad practice and usually frowned upon by inspectors.
@@ElectricProAcademy Thank you! An example I can give, and there are many, is adding a panel mounted surge suppressor. For this device to be most effective, it should be connected as close to the main and with the shortest wires as possible to dissipate any erroneous currents as soon than they enter the panel. They normally require a 2pole 20amp breaker so this would entail relocating the 2 closest circuits to the main.
@@davenag957
As another 40+ year electrician, I agree with everything you said. Especially the extra wire length. I always do it just as you described.
Another example of the need to "rearrange" breakers would be a generator manual lockout situation where the generator breaker needs to be adjacent to the main.
There's probably a happy medium as far as the "art project" aspect. Serviceable and functional, yes... but not a "bowl of spaghetti" either.
Panel can be used as a junction box. If the wire isn’t quite long enough, extend it. Twist your wires good
Was taught over 50 years ago to leave wire at least entire length of panel so a wire could easily be moved. Now with 42 & 84 circuits it's not practical. At the large hospital/research center that I retired from they had at least six 84 circuit 120/208 panels on each of the 12 floors. All conduits were 1" EMT leaving only at top of panel. They made contractor pull a total of 19 #10 guage wires from panel to first pull box for all the 20 amp receptacle circuits do even ty rabbing wires was a crowded mess having over 175 #10 guage wires at top of panels.
@@zachdalehite2165 Do that too many times and you fill up the panel box. It's better to not have to junction to begin with, if you can avoid it.
Just watched the installing an EV charger, top notch! I really appreciate your attention to detail, level, well anchored etc. Its evident you take pride in your work. All those tips learned from experience. I’m learning a lot from your videos….THANK YOU!!
I love your videos!!! As an electrical apprentice your videos provide so much information and code that helps me out alot
@@ElectricProAcademy how about some commercial code applications?
Keep it up brother! You are a great teacher. Your videos are very nice and organized! Very informative and clear
Thank you. You are my go to Pro for electrical.
You sound so patient and gentle talking about how not to fuck up the panel that it's making me laugh. I'm usually like, "WHY THE HELL DID YOU DO THIS? FOR FUCKS SAKE STOP DOING THAT."
I'm here after watching you install that Leviton panel from the future. Man I really like your style. You're a great example for people looking to run their own company someday. Keep it up!
One of my pet pieves is when i open up a panel or j box and find all the metal shavings from where they drilled their KOs in the bottom. Use your magnet on your level and clean that mess out
I just discovered your videos and wish I had had them decades ago! I am a long time (40+ years) DIY'er who has done a lot of electrical work in the course of three historic home remodels. While I am now comfortable with almost all residential electrical, there is always something to learn. Your videos are great. You are concise, articulate, and focus on the details and tips that most electricians are reluctant to share. I am amazed (and disappointed) that you have only 8000 views on this video....you should have 800,000. Keep up the good work. Cheers, bob
So your illegally doing electrical work for profit is what I’m hearing
Today 89.392 viewers..
@@chrissilva5659 In many jurisdictions it's legal for the owner to perform their own contractor work as long as it's to code.
Very good advice. I appreciate it.
Yes sawdust and debris at the bottom of a stud bay by sloppy builders is a fire hazard also. Good point about the panel screw also! Only problem is when the hole becomes stripped out and you have to use a larger screw, choose a new screw carefully.
Ok i was hoping for a little more than that, but in fairness those are all valid points.
What a great way to connect wires vs wire nuts. I ordered the 90 piece kit! Thanks. One question - is there a similar way to connect #8 wire? I've wired a stove outlet with some existing wire I had lying around so I didn't have to purchase more, but found the outlet was 6" too high. I would really to 'simply' extend these #8 wires. Any recommendations?
Joel looks like the Bob Ross of electrical instruction... “We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents.”
How should the cables enter a free standing panel do we need cable glands in such panels?
Thank you for your post A question please how would one identify the common wire 100amp the ground where is Marked but not the common it's been installed in the pipe underground
Thank you for your time
In Canada we use push in Style as you can put 2 14/2 wires in the same hole. In Canada we are not allowed to Ty wrap wires in a bundle
Quick question, where can I find code reference on the blunt screw for the panel cover?
Thanks god bless
When the sub panel door is open, is it normal to have a gap on the top and bottom of the panel? It’s out doors and it exposes the wood and insulation.
Is there Vapor barrier behind your panel?
In my area bundling more than 3 wires together is a code violation. I noticed you had all of your wires tie wrapped together.
Do all breakers trip to the centre? Mine are stab-loc federal pioneer .
Ooh ooh I get to be the keyboard electrician that names one more: If those wires up top are zip tied together for more that 24 inches they are subject to bundling codes and need to be derated. Don't zip tie them they- they get stapled to a 2x4 in the bay instead (if the local musicality requires that)
Thanks for the video!
He’s a dyi UA-cam electrician he knows how to read a book short of he needs to derate not all dry wall 1/2 he whines about connectors really residential easiest possible work
Do your local musicality sing a good tune?
I gotta change out the screws that hold my panel cover on!
The ones that came with the house are the pointy, little ones, and I don't want stuff to be dangerous and/or not up to code!
Can you leave extra breakers inside the panel box?
In addition I always push the wires away from where the screws enter the panel just to make sure the wires dont contact the screws.
Just found your videos. Excellent! Straight to the point. No jibba-jabber. I just subbed. Also, you said "half inch in front of drywall" at the end. I assume you meant half inch in front of the framing? When talking about bushings and connectors, I suggest showing a closeup of the hardware so we know exactly what you're talking about. Though I've worked with the two-screw connectors, I haven't worked much with panels and wondered if these were special bushings you were referring to.
@@ElectricProAcademy One question for you brotherman. Electrician U said to put 20A receptacles on 20A circuits, since the 15A receptacles are, by code, limited in amperage they can accomodate; hence overheating & fires. Which really made sence to me.
But today, on a Resi job, instructions are to put 15A receptacles in the kitchen, "because they aren't a dedicated receptacle". Apparently this company feels that putting a 20A receptacle on a 20A circuit, with other receptacles, is an issue.
What are your thoughts?
@@ElectricProAcademy Ok, I'm going to rewatch his video again, pull out my book and reread what you said. I mistakenly thought this was simpler than it actually is. Thanks for the homework.
@@ElectricProAcademy OK, I rewatched Electrician U's video again, and I'm still missing something. Dustin stated,
"The maximum load you can plug into that 15A receptacle is 12A. So if you’re only plugging in something that is up to 12A then it’s not going to melt. Which is why it’s ok to put a 15A receptacle on that circuit because you’re not allowed to plug in anything more than 12A…But the problem is when people plug multiple things in and they go over the amount that the receptacle was designed for."
I believe I understood your (10 + 10) math equation, but the user was using two receptacles.
Based on Table 210.21(B)(2), the maximum amp load for a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit is 12 amps. Dustin brings up the very point that I'm concerned about; which is the end user (who doesn't know anything about amps and circuits) who plugs in a space heater, specifically the Dreo Portable 1500W Space Heater which states it requires > 16A, and also a laptop, then are they not overloading that 15A receptacle?
Isn't Dustin's case the best argument to have 20A receptacles on 20A circuits?
don't know if the 2x4 close in, but i do know the box expands out. especially in the middle.
@electricproacademy- Looking to move an outside A/C unit to the other side of my garage. Is it a code requirement to run the 10/3 inside conduit above the blocks in the rafters. Clearly need conduit from box to rafters. I see lots of other wire 12/2 - 14/2 in the wild (no conduit) in my rafters. Thanks for the great videos!!
Happy Accidents that burn your house down.....Yeah I see the happiness there....
I'm pro-conduit, though. Best protection a wire can get.
The raceway or conduit is not directly connected to the panel. It's code to bond the ground to the outlet box.?
I just watched your video about installing the 220 outlet for an EV. Probably the best DIY video I've watched on You Tube. Last year, I was going to put a Hot Tub on my back deck and the Electrician wanted about 3k to install a 220 outlet out back. Does that seem right? Good to know you're in Indy. I live in Lawrence.
@@ElectricProAcademy yea, it’s through vinyl, along the side of the house and attach to another vinyl siding wall. Drilling the hole would be the easiest part :-)
Why would they run neutral and ground wires behind the buss bars?
Does the romex insulation have to be removed right after entering the panel or can it stay on until close to the termination connections? Stripping the last 5” is easier than 24”.
@@ElectricProAcademy it seems it would be an added layer of protection but perhaps not work well in a full box. Stripping 6” is faster than 3’. Thanks
The full Romex cable with insulation is a lot bulkier than the conductors alone that often need to be routed to different places in the panel anyway.
The reason why the outer sheath is stripped right after it exits the bushing into the box is a heat issue and one of accessibility. You have too much crap crammed into a small enclosed space and not enough air, it’s going to generate more heat.
The outer sheath is more to protect the inner insulated wires from being nicked or marred, exposing the copper to its surroundings and causing potentially dangerous things like arcing and short circuiting.
It doesn’t seem like it but a bunch of wires with the outer sheath and the inner paper insulation etc takes up substantially more room.
I would disagree that stripping 24” of Romex vs 5” is really any more work, especially for someone with some experience. It doesn’t take but a couple of seconds (less than 10) more to strip an extra foot or two. For real.
And then manageability and accessibility being the second reason. It’s a hell of a lot easier to bend and shape a single conductor wire vs an intact Romex bundle. And as you have to (possibly later) move or add new branch circuits, it’s a lot easier to work with individual wires, especially considering as the other comment said… different conductors may have to to different places or in a full box you may need to finagle things behind or around this or that and it’s going to be a hell of a lot tougher with a full Romex cable with only a tiny bit of conductor sticking out at the end- especially when you start getting to thicker gauge wires rather than just 14 or whatever. Your fingers will hurt after a long day of terminating 12 gauge, I can tell you- I did that myself recently.
Was an electrical inspector for 20 years. I’ll always remember this one electrician that left cigarette butts at the bottom of his new panel installation. What a sloth he was!
ewwwwww
I was changing a light switch in my kitchen. I tried to locate the circuit breaker to disconnect the power, but after trying each one separately, the power was still on. I then turned off all of them, and the power to the switch was off. I then started to turn each breaker on, one at a time, and the power finally came back on so I thought I now knew what breaker controlled the switch. So, I turned the rest of the on and turned off the breaker that I identified. Guess what? The power remained on. Turns out that the electrician who installed the switch initially had the switch on two breakers. Since the electrician did this work about 3 years ago, I called him and told him what I found. He said it wasn't dangerous and said, "You can leave it that way if you want, or I can come over next week and fix it. I chose to wait and have him fix it. He said the reason why this happens is because "we never turn off power in the box while working and it was just missed." This is a problem when they take short cuts when doing electric work. After he fixes this, I will never use him again.
Very helpful video, thumbs up, but.... drywall isn't always 1/2"
Shouldn’t you have a point of attachment for all wires entering the panel within 12” of the top of the panel?
No where in the NEC does it specify blunt tip screws, only that it is securely fastened with a fastener... I get where your headed, but I have also seen these panel screws nick wires when the wires are passing in a bundle passed a screw hole. The screws you are referring to are a special kind of hardened thread generating screw. They are only available from an electrical supply house.
@@ElectricProAcademy text offers no real personal expression, but I was trying to help... I only mentioned my thoughts because once upon a time in multi-family condos in my state of Florida... I had to figure out how to fix 15-20 units where the green guys blew out the holes for the load center. Instead of using metal epoxy to fix the hole, I just went to the code book to see what it said about how the cover is to be fastened... After that went to ACE got some self tapers and replaced all the screws making them match up sizing the fastener then cutting off the self drilling part. Beat having to remove the load center and replace with a new one.
@@DishitoutNetwork Could you just tap to another size and use a machine screw?
@@illestofdemall13 the special screw has very fine hardened threads because the panel lip is only like 3/32 inch thick so another machine screw has to be like #12 @ a 32 thread those are hard to find... So I just go with a self tapping and self drilling tek screw with a collared washer and start at #10... But hey as long as they are all the same and secured and removable...
the better tip would be ensure no wires are near screw holes on inside of panel cause I don't think I came across a panel yet in 30 years that had all the factory screws in it , regardless I wouldn't want a factory dull end screws touching wires in there either .
Without reading through all the comments, Is the main breaker feeding this panel within sight?
@@ElectricProAcademy Then you need a main breaker in the sub panel. Unless you can throw 6 breaker disconnects or less in the panel to de-energize everything
As a sparky in the Netherlands is am amazed about the number off group switches as we call them.(translated in english off course!)Is this for a normal house or for a factory or what?I know your houses are in general bigger than ours,but still,thats a lot off switches!
yes, it's very typical in north american homes (and commercial business) -to have many individual breaker switches. these days where LED lights are most common, we could certainly simplify a circuit a bit more, but what you're not considering is that we have 120 volt standard sockets, only 2 or 3 devices require 220 volt (2 lines of 120 volt). so when we are dealing with a 15 amp circuit, that can be used up to capacity quickly. ,so, more circuits...
Many garages use 5/8 inch type X gypsum board not 1/2 inch.
Another thing not to do is all those home runs coming into/out of the panel…they’re bunched up in two major bundles. Try to avoid that and go with no more than three or so. Heat is a killer in bundles like that.
Is there code for a limit of bundling?
@@SouthwestD313 Yes, you can only bundle as many cables together through a bushing as what the code allows for that bushing size.
@@thekobaz What's the code number?
@@SouthwestD313
For bundling derating, check out NEC 2020: 310.15(C)(1) More Than Three Current Carrying Conductors: “The ampacity of each conductor shall be reduced…where the number if current carrying conductors in a raceway or cable exceeds three, or
where multiconductor cables not installed in raceways are installed without maintaining spacing for a continuous length longer than 24”.“
Then you have to look at Table 310.15(C)(1) for derating based on number of current carrying conductors, and Table 310.15(B)(1) for temperature derating.
Also, 334.80
Ampacity: “Where more than two NM cables containing two or more current carrying conductors are installed, without maintaining spacing between the cables, through the same opening in wood framing that is sealed with thermal insulation, caulk, or sealing foam, the ampacity of each conductor shall be adjusted in accordance with Table 310.15(C)(1).
There is no derating (that I’ve come across) for NM entering a bushing in a panel KO.
@@SouthwestD313 "as what the code allows" I believe he should have said "what the listing allows." You must conform to the bushing manufacturer's rating. However, in my AHJ, you will get popped if more than two wires are in a single bushing, regardless of the listing.
I prefer the push in bushings over the 2 screw ones because once thats drywalled you are not undoing the 2 screw connector with out removing rock. The panel lip may need to be 5/8 out as in certain locales garage wall to house wall is 5/8'. So set the screw in center so it can be adjusted after ock is in if needed,
Push in connectors all the way. Set screws screw you when trying to pull that wire out with sheetrock surrounding the panel
I surface mount all my panels.
I ran into this in my home and realized the panel cover (I'm flush mounted) is so much wider/taller than the panel itself that creating an opening in the drywall just large enough to poke a screwdriver through allowed me to loosen the bushing without any cosmetic issues after the panel cover was reinstalled.
Hey bro so we aren’t gonna talk about the zip ties holding the wires together isn’t that bundling here in Oregon it’s illegal I guess it varies state to state huh. Great videos man !
Felt like I was listening to a DIY guy talking about electrical.
A solution for a panel that is flush with the stud and has no reveal is?
Thanks
Loosen the mounting screws and pull it out to the face of the finished wall surface.
@Electric Pro Academy lol. Thanks. I took it granted that you would assume the only reason I asked the question is because the box is filled with wire and walls (3/8" OSB for ability to hang something anywhere & drywall because I hate how OSB looks) are up. I used some plastic stand off and screwed cover on. I was very displeased with myself for the installation and wanted to do something about it, assuming there was a simple fix. Oh well. BTW, I have found your content very helpful.
After that panel is closed up and drywall is installed there is no way your adding additional circuits thur an existing romex connector. Good luck if your on an outside wall.
It's not an electrical issue, but why aren't the side tabs of those fiberglass batts stapled to the studs? What good is the vapor barrier if it's left open? That is an open invitation to unnecessary air infiltration.
UL requires the square head screws on the assembled unit that's shipped to the customer. Everybody knows these screws get lost. There should be six more screws inside the panel attached and labeled "Spare non-piercing panel cover safety screws." And allow as an alternate mechanical shielding that prevents wires from being in harms way.
Until something like this is done, asking a homeowner to go to the hardware store to buy a special screw that they don't even understand is all you can offer, yet dysfunctional from a regulatory perspective. Before I knew what I know now, I left missing screws still missing, and I left replacement screws in place when I opened panel boards in the past. After I finished writing this I'm going to buy a bunch of spares for my toolbox.
I see several white wires attached to breakers, in our jurisdiction these need to be covered at each end with black or red tape at both ends of the run.
No, they are neutrals of afci, they must not be marked as power cables
1. Don't use incompatible breakers.
2. Don't leave debris in the panel.
3. Romex must enter through protective connector.
4. Use blunt tipped fasteners for the panel cover.
5. Panel must emerge 1/2 inch past studs.
6. Watch the "working space" video
Eaton "could" seek to expand their listing to accept Square-D, but seemingly helping the competition is not what shareholders are looking for. But if Eaton wanted to disrupt the market with a universal panel, killing panel sales for everyone else... Also this making their own breakers in a commodity, driving down prices for all brands of breakers (that are now stupid expensive), they could. However, they would have to chase all new breakers released by all others and pay for compatibility tests. The fat money is in the fancy new breakers that protect most in 30 years when outlets become sloppy loose, that improperly torqued screw didn't matter until some day a space heater is plugged in...
These c a f c i and GFCI plus CAFCI breakers have little circuit boards, capacitors, failure prone solder joints, and are in a thermal cycling environment. These breakers are to protect houses burning down after they age, the one exception being they should also trip when deficient power strips are in the chain of the continuous power appliances like space heaters, air conditioners, dehumidifiers, and even refrigerators in the freezers. I support using the new circuit breakers, as an electrical engineer who has designed safety circuits and who has investigated fires, but the way this is playing out with very expensive breakers in a monopolistic market is causing a lot of workarounds, and horribly likely preventing people from upgrading old panels and fuse boxes and federal Pacific boxes because the new panel with its compliment of breakers could run $800 before the electrician's labor is even counted.
$800? Where you get it that cheap? Lol
Eaton makes a breaker that will fit Homeline and many others (CL) it's been tested to fit and approved by U.L. , Square D could do the same but has chosen not to
Zip-tied Romex bundles outside the top of the box are a no-no.....No?
If a panel is designed to be between studs why are there twice as much knock outs or even at all on the sides for cable entry?
Because the sides are longer than the ends and can accommodate more knockouts.
Sometimes they are surface mounted. Just use a surface mount cover.
So what is the "SMOKES" circuit?
Smoke detectors 😅
@@ElectricProAcademy 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤣
Assuming that wall is insulated because it’s an exterior wall your video shows one of my pet peeves, putting the panel in an exterior wall that the code requires to be insulated to R-15 or R-20 and because of the panel there ends up being a cavity that is roughly R-0. I’ve encountered situations where the panel was so cold there was condensation all over inside, not good! There’s too many of us willing to be “that guy” because it saves us 10 minutes of work or a couple of bucks in wire. I would love to see a building inspector fail a final building inspection for this reason and make the electrician move the panel at his expense.
Hahaha try to find the right breakers during this times haah
Writing on scraps of insulation with a sharpie is not worth the time. Open that panel up in a few years and you most likely will find the sharpie ink soaked in to the insulation making it totally not readable. Weird but true.
Son, you are not allowed to strap wires with cable ties like that :) that's a failed inspection in my state
So what do I do to cover all the wires that are not in conduit to a back mounted panel on back porch of 120 old house. I’ll need room to run all the new wires as I eliminate the tube and knob wires. Currently no framing no conduit.
if you're considering external wiring, it would have to be BX -metal clad-armor cable, as used in apartment/commercial buildings, and anything metal studs. you can also do conduit, depends on the look you want to finish with.
otherwise, but holes in drywall/wall panels, and use fish tape/rods where you can to run wires behind the wall panels
I'd watch zip-tying bundles of conductors after they exit the panel. This is not a good idea. This can cause heat build-up between the conductors due to lack of air circulation.
Fire barrier is 5/8 drywall
Shouldn't bundle wires going into box like that. Overheating could result. Give wires breathing room.
#6 You need insulation covered.
@@ElectricProAcademy fiberglass... That looks like paper.
The push in connectors are reusable.
You missed the elephant in the room when stating the breaker vs. panel compatibility. There are many panels out there where the original mfgr. is no longer in business. And some of those do NOT have an official replacement by another mfgr....although there are breakers made that fit and work well. There are arguments over this all the time.. The code is vague, but seems to cover it..No...you do not have to tear out your panel (at least last time I checked) even though there are no "official" replacement being mfgd. And as far as push in vs. 2 screw connectors. Are you kidding? Use what you want. We do remodels and have to deal with this type of thing every single day. For starters,..cutting (and repairing afterward) the sheetrock along the top is by far a bigger pain than dealing with the metal vs. plastic connectors that are the next thing to deal with.
I don't believe "must be listed for its intended purpose and use" is very vague.
Although it looks nice, you have too many cables bundled together and need to derate them. Better practice would be to put a nailer board above the panel.
Thats Overrated. Get it. Buh dum psh.
@@Adobo121 hahaha, I love it
What is a "nailer" board?
@@meganw6007 a board installed across the stud cavity that has the sole purpose of allowing you to securely attach fasteners. In the case of this video, it would be set back in the cavity to allow more space to fasten groups of Romex instead of having to derate the Romex due to grouping more than 3 cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 OH!!! THOSE things!!
I know what you're talking about now!
Thanks for such a great explanation!
@4:07 You mis-spoke and said half inch in front of drywall...
He misspeaks quite a lot. But it's not the end of the world.
We can't use Romex in Chicago most of these videos are useless to us
Every machine thread screw is blunt end...
I notice you have ring on your finger ?
Ok rain man
That's funny. A square d breaker is a much better breaker than a ge or any other lesser breaker. Cutler hammer is good too since they use square D internal workings. Too bad they don't cross list them. The whole purpose for homeline panels is so homeowners can interchange breakers. I personally would never install a homeline, don't trust the aluminum bus bars. And why would you want someone putting a ge breaker in a square D or ch panel.
Interesting many of his so called shorts were actually bad connections, Shocking how many electricians agreed with this error.
1) Cables CAN enter a panel without a connector in some jurisdictions. In the Southwest (AZ), our panels are almost exclusively placed outdoors and all the cables enter through a single large bushing in the back. It may not be NEC compliant but it is allowed here and has been the standard since the 60''s.
@@ElectricProAcademy
The bushing protects you from chaffing on the "raw panel". Which is what the connectors do. You can have squeeze connectors but its not required.
@@ElectricProAcademy We are usually a few years behind some of the country. Im retired now so I don't pay too much attention. All I know for sure is that has been the standard method here since the early 60's. 99% of our houses are built on slab with no basements and 99% of our service panels are outdoors so it is a simple and logical way to build.
When the internet came along, I was surprised to see SE cable was still being used and NEC compliant in some parts of the country. I have only seen exposed wires or cable used for servive conductors here one time, out of thousands I have looked at. I've had houses built in the 20's and the service conductors were protected by conduit.
That said, they used a LOT of "indoor" panels for the outside services throughout the 50's :) They often function fine until the 2000s when I replace hundreds of them. I only saw one that actually blew up. It was under a roof valley and the water poured straight into it for decades :)
fire code requires 5/8 fire rated drywall not soft 1/2in
Nothing about that panel would pass Canadian codes LOL
And halve ass candian way of installing panels sideways is dangerous . Every breaker or switch must have ON position in the u
UP position. Common sense. Somebody should tell Mike Holt to place a disclaimer every time his electrician mounts a panel sideways ( horizon ) on shows that are played in the USA.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp one of the dumbest statements i seen yet, and coming from a country where grounds and neutrals can be placed on the same bar, branch circuit wires and unfused line wires can be mixed in the same space and double stapling cables is common place. Probably should be quiet, you don't even have a good reason why a panel can't be mounted sideways mounting a panel vertically means no breaker handles go up lol. Plus you can't spell.
No words about NOT USING a driver to tighten Romex and mc connectors!!!? You would get a box of cat asses from me....have a nice day.
Dam
These American measurements sure fcking confusing
How so?
Ew... music... boo
You used the non word “umh” only once, unlike Benjamin… from another channel. He was prolific in the use of the non words and I was compelled to unsubscribe!
Dude you don’t know what you are talking about. Cover screws are not available.
@@ElectricProAcademy thanks but it was a GE panel.
Stop trying to scare people. Give me a bucking break
This guy knows nothing about breakers he is she seeing what he is told
Like you have never made a mistake....or still make mistakes.....Give us a break....As a City Inspector for a major city in California.....Trust me, your not perfect and I would LOVE to inspect your work. Without you knowing I was coming.....just sayin. Great tips...but try not to act so clean as a whistle.....
Studpack subscriber reporting in 🫡
Pretty sure you are wrong about the breaker compatibility. See reference linked below from Eaton themself.
www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/low-voltage-power-distribution-controls-systems/circuit-breakers/classified-circuit-breakers/ul-classified-replacement-circuit-breakers-sa00304001e.pdf
Nah. They are are all UL classified, interchangeable they are.
They are not "interchangeable". The panel directly states what type of breakers it can accept. By that standard if you could somehow miracle a zinsco breaker into an eaton panel all is well. Both are UL listed(UL is just one of several certifying companies).
@@ElectricProAcademy Homeline will fit BR but BR will not fit Homeline , Cutler Hammer CL's will fit both
Just because there's an apparent dimensional and physical compatibility doesn't mean they're compatible. There are other factors, such as thickness of bus blades, dimensions of bus blades, design of the swing "clamps", etc.