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@@shawnshurtz9147 Agreed. I don't think a splice would be necessary very often during initial installation. But often time we want to add a sub panel or we may need to more some circuits around and splices will be our only option.
Two other factors governing the use of anti-short bushings: 1, Some agencies require the use of all supplied components from the manufacturer.(whether actually required or not.) 2. Some jurisdictions still have the requirement on the books from decades ago. (Hence, why they're still shipped.) Legacy; code, standards, and requirements exist all over industry!
Liked the info; it’s funny to me that perceptions can be just so strong and at times even defy code. I know where I am if you don’t use no Alox you’ll fail an inspection and won’t get a service sticker to allow equipment to be energized. You can show a code section but the gist is safer rather than sorry and it’s not hurting anyone. I was so glad to get out of the commercial space as industrial/municipal is so much better and more sane, at least as far as code compliance. The biggest thing to try to convince people of is following torque spec, as it is required but, seemingly rarely followed, at least outside of larger equipment.
6 months ago i installed a new I-line panel 480 v 800 amp and used a torque wrench on every connection and breaker. it's surprising how much torque it actually takes to tighten up the lugs. 300 - 500 inch lbs is a hell of alot.
I was surprised by the splicing in the panel. I was watching my electrician doing a panel upgrade and saw him doing a ton of splices in the panel. It was a combination of old wiring and the panel length increasing that required him to splice a bunch of wires just to get them to reach the new breakers. I guess people forget that splices always need access (in addition to what you read as code) and you certainly have access in the panel. Thanks for keeping us informed.
I was surprised too. When i installed my new panel I had a few circuits where I was short of wire on the old runs so did the extensions in a box outside the new panel. Would have been simpler inside for sure. I live in Ontario so it might be different, something I’ll have to check if I ever need it again.
Hey John! Thanks for this one - I must admit that the 15A/20A receptacle on a 15A breaker was new to me. I've never tried to do this (we use 15A recepts on our resi projects), but my internal "common sense" would have told me that there was no issue (similar to putting 20A wire, or #12 AWG, on a 15A breaker - it's still protected). But the point about "encouraging" the use of higher-wattage (20A cord cap) equipment from a receptacle/load point of view does make perfect sense!
I understand why the no ox requirement was waived as I live in Colorado where the weather is as dry as a popcorn fart. The thing is, I’ve dealt with low voltage RJ45 connectors in marine environments and the air alone in that environment is aggressive enough that anti oxidation materials are prudent regardless of code recommendations.
My grandparents had a new house built in 2004 in Arizona. In 2007 an aluminum wire feeding the AC Compressor corroded at the panel and started a cascade failure, melting the wire. It left burn marks on the trusses and other framing; it damn near burned down the house. Noalox was not used on either end. I learned 2 things from this incident. If I have AL wire, I use Noalox, period, regardless of code. Also, when I built my new house, I spent the extra money and used copper for feeding subpanels, ovens and HVAC. Was it expensive? Yes. Am I ever going to have to worry about it? No.
Iv'e seen examples of aluminum wire feeding manufacturing plants corroding to the point of catastrophic short and explosion. And there have been many a mobile home burning to the ground because of aluminum wiring. I would never even consider it's use in ANY building or equipment. It should have been outlawed decades ago.
More than likely it was a loose connection.. that caused that. Not the lack of nolox. Alot of fires could be prevented if people properly used a torque wrench when installing.
If copper is clamped onto aluminium it can cause corrosion. WAGO allows to use its clamps with aluminium only with anti-corrosion paste. WAGO offers anti-corrosion paste for this purpose. Omitting this paste is a violation of the manufacturer's specifications.
The new AA-8000 aluminum conductors are rated for copper lugs with no antioxidant paste. But if you find the manufacture has not caught up and still requires it then you should use it with their equipment.
@@BackyardMainethe code section you showed says that aluminum is one of the conductor types allowed, and that aluminum has to be an 8000 series alloy unless it's bigger than 1000 MCM. It does not say that AA-8000 is interchangeable with copper. If you have a device with terminals that are spec'ed for copper wire only, you cannot use AA-8000 in it. Whether NoAlOx is required also goes by the manufacturer instructions.
When I first started learning the Code, one thing became very clear: it is not a guide to the best practices for using and installing electrical devices. It is the base requirement that can be approved. Do you have to install a redhead when installing armored cable? Nope. But, you are a fool if you do not. A proficient worker could find dozens of such examples. Don't confuse code requirements for good methodologies.
So even though NEMA says don't use them, they are not required by code, the connectors are not listed for their use, and the reason people think they're needed is because they confuse the requirement with what's required for BX we should still use them... The code is far from a minimum standard. I have been in the business as an electrician or an electrical engineer for 40 years and have spend considerable time writing best practice methods and procedures for a semiconductor manufacturing company. There are very few instances when the code needs to be exceeded.
@@BackyardMaine In that case sir, you need to talk to somebody who knows more than you do. Apparently, you think I don't. It's fine, I started doing electrical work in 1964. So whose is bigger? It doesn't matter whose is bigger, it matters what the best practice is. Any person with one working eyeball can see a sharp edge and a conductor that needs to be protected. Is there a functional distinction between the sharp edge of BX and the sharp edge of AC or MC??? If NEMA can't see that, then perhaps they should visit a good eye surgeon. The code clearly states that all work should be done in a workmanlike manner, and that is the coverage for this approach of best practice. HTH.
In every dwelling unit I've worked in, it is a universal practice to install 15A receptacles on the required 20A kitchen, bathroom, laundry room and garage receptacles. Equipment with NEMA 5-20 plugs are very seldom encountered in a typical family home, so I've only installed single NEMA 5-20R devices in homes to identify it as a 20A individual branch circuit for something like a large refrigerator or expresso machine if the manufacturer's instructions specify a 120V 20A individual branch circuit regardless of whether the equipment in question has a 15 or 20a plug, since per the NEC a single receptacle outlet on a branch circuit must match the rating of the overcurrent protection device. In the unlikely event you see an appliance with a 120V 20A plug, such as a commercial grade microwave oven for example, even if the electrician had installed 20A devices on the 20A circuits, you should check the instruction manual because it will probably say something like "FOR USE ON AN INDIVIDUAL 120VAC, 60Hz, 20 AMPERE BRANCH CIRCUIT ONLY" in which case 110.3 (B) applies. As always, we need to also be aware of any local codes which may be more stringent than or have requirements that go beyond the NEC. For example some jurisdictions could require 20A devices to be installed on 20A circuits even though the NEC permits 15 or 20A devices on 20A circuits.
Many of these may not be required but reflect better installation practices when used. It is always best if you can have workmanship that always "meets or exceeds code" than simply "meets code".
I completely agree with better workmanship and best practices. But I don't agree with doing something that provides no value to the customer and actually is not recommend by the manufacturer. In this case it does not exceed anything other than possibly the bill. If your plumber painted all your copper pipe would than exceed code since its not required?
@@BackyardMaine Exactly. Too many have the belief/perception that "minimum" code (perhaps we should stop using the word minimum, with all its connotations) is exactly one small step away from a disaster so exceeding the minimum gets you farther away from that disaster. Nonsensical.
The code may not require anti-ox, but there are still manufacturers that require it, and the code states if anti-ox is required by the manufacture, then it is required by the code.
If the inspector wants to be a pain in the ass then that's one of the first things they try to enforce. Best practice is to smear a little bit of paste on the front side of the wire insulation to make it look as though it was used hence you avoid the hassle to begin with
I was doing some MC recently in the attic and my old Greenlee cutter was in the basement, but my little M12 bandsaw was at hand. I tried it on the MC and obviously, it cut the MC. Just then I used my good ol Klien reamer/debur to remove any edge (there was almost none), I have a ton of old single screw fasteners (not the new ones you show). The protector goes in nice and smooth. It looks like the collar/clap type connectors for use without the bushing may cause issues as the clamp could squeeze down on the cable and bushing too much. BTW: The little M12 bandsaw is great for EMT, RMC, MC, copper, AL, etc.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
@@nicholassmi4091 There is no explicit allowance in the NEC that addresses it the way I have, but there is no prohibition. This is a clear example of the importance of comprehensive NEC knowledge (as opposed to knowing just the rule you're focusing on). The NEC says a grounded conductor must be white its entire length, for example. Changing that entire length color to black now disallows it as a grounded conductor and allows it to be used as an ungrounded conductor (which can't be white, gray or green). Changing a black conductor to white along its entire length allows it to be used as a neutral. There is nothing in the NEC that says conductor color must be directly from the manufacturer. Field markings are allowed unless otherwise prohibited.
@@BackyardMaine when we have an electrical conduit we are not allowed to pull an individual white color conductor and re-identify it . If i am wrong please send me section of NEC that can proof that i am mistaken. And Section 200.7 saying that we can re-identify only if it is (1) part of cable assembly , (2) A flexible cord. Thank you
There's still a few questions I have. 1. Related to re-identifying a white wire as a hot wire. What does code define as a "permanent" marking? Electrical tape can be peeled off after it's applied, and to me, isn't permanent. I've thought of using heat shrink tubing for this, because it doesn't suffer from the problems that electrical tape or permanent markers have, and also wraps 360 degrees around the wire, but it can also be removed once it's applied, just like electrical tape. 2. Related to the 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. Does the same apply to switches too? Could it be the situation with switches is actually reverse of receptacles? Or something else?
Electrical tape is an approved method listed in 200.7(C) in the code. The NEC allows a 15A-rated switch to control loads on a 20A circuit as long as the switch is used to control a lighting load or other device that does not exceed the switch's rating. This is because switches are designed to handle the current drawn by the load they are controlling, not necessarily the full capacity of the circuit. NEC 404.14: The relevant section of the NEC (404.14) indicates that snap switches, such as typical light switches, are allowed to be used on circuits with a higher ampacity than the switch rating, provided the load does not exceed the switch rating.
The NEC does not say the marking method must be permanent, as in not removable. It says "permanently reidentified...by marking tape, painting or other effective means..."
For reidentifying white wires as hots, you might want to add that while you can do that to a cable assembly such as romex or MC- you cannot do this for THHN in a conduit. (Unless the wire is #4 or larger)
Correct. I did show the text in 200.7 detailing that fact but maybe I should have said it as well. I was showing and talking about NM cable so I didn't think it was necessary.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
When reidentifying a wire with tape, I recommend NOT using black tape. Black tape can be mistaken as a repair of the insulation rather than a reidentification. If you must repair the insulation on a neutral conductor, use white tape so someone doesn't mistake it for a reidentified wire. The above isn't a code requirement; it's just a best practice.
Actually, a black tape repair on a white conductor and using it as a neutral would be a code violation. Grounded conductor must be white its entire length and a 1" wide piece of black tape renders it not white along its entire length.
I know that anti short bushings are not required on MC cable but always use them. After stripping any armored cable jacket cut the sharp edge at a 45 degree angle When cable companies supply undersized anti short bushings will install two of them staggered around wires.Can remember the coated flimsy paper anti short bushings from the 1960's. Often after a few short years in a damp location they would fall apart.
It’s incredible how much extra work is done because an inspector one time told an electrician that they had to do something even though it had no basis in reality
@@MrAncientAstronaut you’re not wrong, but I think that this is pretty widely misinterpreted. Just because the individual inspector is a representative of the AHJ doesn’t mean that they can just make stuff up. I can picture a piece of 2 inch pipe with a 90 in the middle of it supported with a one hole strap and inch away from the coupling. Wow this might technically meet the code requirements that sagging 90 is going to put pressure on the coupling and should be supported. Requiring anti-shorts where the manufacturers have repeatedly and specifically addressed the matter isn’t open for interpretation.
I always find videos diskussing the do's and dont's of electrical installation interesting. They are highlighting the different practices used at different times, at different location, etc. This video is nicely done, I miss however one important piece of information: The area where the contend of this video applies. I'm located in Europe, and obviously, while the information provided in this video is interesting (and certainly correct) ... it doesn't apply to me. Are laws regarding electrical wireing the same in the whole US, or do they vary per state? Do they apply to Canada as well? ... I would be simply good to say the one important sentence right in the beginning: The content of this video applies only in --- insert region here ---
Thanks.. I often don't think to say that but it's a good idea. Here in the USA we have a national electrical code that has been adopted by all 50 states. Some states will have a few amendment but they are usually minimal. I think the state of Maine where I live has five minor amendments and they are more about terminology rather than standard. Some cities and counties will have more amendments which I think is ridiculous and would love to see that change. Canada has their own code but it is very similar to ours here in the USA.
Our crew sticks with snap/push-in barrel style mc connectors which already has the plastic bushing wire protection but I still use the anti shorts sometimes or pull a tiny bit of slack from the mc cable and wrap a piece of tape over the conductors then retract 'em back into the metal armor if my cut is questionable (I'm often OCD on things though and hate potential mistakes).
Great video and I agree about the 20 receptacles on a 15 amp circuit, but in my 60 years, I've actually never seen a 20 amp plug on any appliance. I know they exist, but the toaster oven example isn't one of them. We used to install 20 amp receptacles under the impression that they were built better, but haven't done that in decades.
You will not find any consumer appliances with 20 amp cord caps. What you will find is certain areas requiring a single 20 amp receptacle (dedicated circuit) for appliances like a permanently mounted microwave or similar because some draw 1800+ watts and could be considered as continuous draw even though they are within the 80% rule. That outlet also qualifies as a service disconnect.
As a DIYer my biggest mistake was not using commercial grade receptacles, especially for locations with frequent plug-ins. These just don't last and I am having to replace them.
@@scottkolaya2110 that depends on how long "years ago" was. In the 70s / 80s we didn't have the flood of units made with Chineseium. If you are talking maybe 25 years ago, that's another story.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire, or any wire, that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
My favorite thing to do is ask people to show me the specific article in the code that allows or forbids something. It feels like many professionals have never even read the code and only know what they were taught as an apprentice. *I was typing this out as the video still played. As I was typing you just said "that's what I was taught as an apprentice" 😂
When you got two different metals in contact is when you use the antioxidant and most of what you're saying may not be cold violations but they are really good practices. Fairly certian you cant reidenfied green and white or grey 2023 no grounding or grounded conductor. Also you have to have a neutral in every box. Even if myths its the way it should be done.
The neural only needs to be at one switch box for 3-way and 4-way switches as per 404.2 in the 2023 code. You cannot re-identify a ground wire but you can a neural wire per 200.7 of the 2023 code. AA-8000 conductors can only be connected to connectors that are listed for aluminum wire. Almost all these connectors or lugs used in load centers are listed for copper and aluminum. AL/CU. For a listed a AL/CU lug antioxidant is not required.
So because we found a way around the old minimum of pipe, we have created so many more problems and also new minimums, that in the long run cost more, but now code allows it, but 1/3 as much wires, afi and, fire alarm equiptment in every home. While it does provide job security, the quality, and effort goes down with every step we take away.
You also forgot cable sizes 4 or larger can be re-identified cable sizes 6 and smaller can be re-identified if they're part of a cable assembly. If I remember correctly.
You are correct but I didn't forget that. I was referring to cables for home wiring. I showed 200.7 in the video. I didn't show 200.6 since that was really not the point of the video. I may do another video covering marking since so many seem to not understand what you clearly do understand.
NEMA stands for National Electrical Manufacturers Association. They do not require Anti-shorts for MC cable. And since the connectors are not listed for use with anti-shorts you could be in violation of 110.3(B) by using them.
Many will study the code to get licensed and then take a code update every three years as required. They don't read the manufacturers instructions and they don't read the code. Then they argue with those that do..
200.7(C)(1) is in relation to cable assemblies, so Romex/mc/cable tray etc. is fine. But pulling a white THWN-2 in a conduit and then reidentifying it is not.
@@BackyardMaine You showed Romex, but didn't mention it. Also didn't mention it's strictly in relation to cable assemblies. Not that a lot of home owners would use individual conductors, the point is still the same. 200.7(C)(2) would be for flexible cords, at least in the 2023 revision.
@@Crasoum I actually showed the code article in the video which states its for cable assemblies and below that was (2) for flexible cords.. The reasoning is that with conduct you can pull in the correct wire color.
@@BackyardMaine No argument there, my sticking point had more to do with how people tend to approach information (they take it at face value and don't read the fine print.) You say anything confidently enough and most people will take it in without a second thought.
Connectors for NM cable will be listed for a certain number and size cables. This listing or rating needs to be followed by the installer to meet 110.3 (B)
25 years ago I saw that tip in a magazine, drill hole in tip of marker for easy wire id. Tried it on one job and even though I trimmed out days after I marked them, went home with sharpee ink all over my hands. The first time was the last timeNeat idea, not so great in practice.
At 9:40 you should also mention the load restriction of a 20 amp breaker. This load shall not exceed 80% of the breaker. The standard for most household circuits are rated either 15 amps or 20 amps. An important note to remember is that circuit breakers can only handle about 80% of their overall amperage. That means a 15-amp circuit breaker can handle around 12-amps and a 20-amp circuit breaker can handle about 16 amps. The National Electrical Code (NEC) doesn't specify how many outlets can go on a 20-amp circuit. Instead, it focuses on the circuit's maximum power capacity-2,400 watts in this case-and recommends a safety margin of 80% of that load's total capacity. Jun 26, 2024
That's maximum continuous load. For example a toaster is not considered a continuous load. Also a circuit breaker is designed to carry full circuit load indefinitely. The breakers trip at their set rating and time curve but is list for it's full load.
@@BackyardMaine yes, the continuous load is the new benchmark on so many things now that we commonly see permanently installed microwaves and EVs in the garage.
Backyard Maine, What is your opinion on Fuses vs Circuit breakers? Are not fuses more positive to open on the overcurrent rating then Circuit breakers?
Circuit breakers have become very reliable and I would rather have them than a fuse in a residential setting. A breaker can be reset easily and be used to turn off and on a circuit safely if needed. Fuses are pretty much fool proof when it comes to reliability. The issue with them in residential use is they can't be easily and safely replaced by an inexperienced person. They cannot be reset so you will need to buy a fuse when one blows and an inexperienced person could easily put in a larger fuse to keep it from tripping not knowing they have created a hazard. I hope this helps.
Use the antishorting bushings!. I have MC in my home, and even with the MC cable connectors its still possible for the clad to cut in to the wire and cause a short! The bushings are cheap & easy to install why take a risk & cut corners for something as cheap & easy?
8:51 - This is a common sense requirement: a 20 amp receptacle will accept cords connected to equipment that may draw higher currents than the 15 amp breaker can handle safely.
Installing a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit is just lying to the end-user. Seeing a 20A receptacle should tell you that circuit is sized and properly wired to deliver 20A. You wouldn't install a 50A receptacle on a 30A circuit either. Edit: And you wouldn't install a 3ɸ receptacle on a 1ɸ circuit.
Here are a few more myths. General purpose receptacles in dwellings are calculated at 180 watts or 1-1/2 amps. You can only put 10 receptacles on a circuit in a dwelling. Voltage drop is “required” to be no more than 2% on a feeder and not more than 3% on a branch circuit. Conductor ampacity ratings must always be at 60C in 310.15(B)(16) for 15 amp through 60 amp circuits. The “ONLY” place that grounded conductors and equipment grounds are bonded is at the first means of disconnect in the system. The device that you plug your appliance into is called an “outlet”. Circuit breakers will trip as soon as they go over their rating, IE 21 amps on a 20 amp rated breaker. Ground fault current on equipment grounds goes to the grounding electrode system for protection. These are just a few more for you. If you need clarification, just ask a question.
Those are some good ones, better than this list, I'd say, of which only one was something I didn't know but never really thought about (and I'm not a licensed electrician). The Ground fault current one is common enough I've had to explain it to multiple people before.
I like your site because you go to the code book. I have a question about using a GFCI outlet to replace a two wire outlet. I believe that it meets code and supposedly will trip as designed but I believe it still does not give you a path to ground. I think I heard that you should not put a ground and neutral under the same screw in the buss bar in a panel. Under no circumstances should a ground use the neutral back to a panel. Please direct me to a verified authority.
You can install a GFCI on a circuit without a ground wire and it will still work. Yes always keep the neutral and ground separate and never use a ground wire as a neutral. All of this is detailed in the NEC.
Yes I knew you use the GFCI to replace a two wire outlet. However doesn’t it need to be labeled “no equipment ground.” This tells me you still do not have a path to ground. Grounds and neutrals do not do the same thing, is that correct. They go to the same place but they are not the same. That is why you shouldn’t put a ground and neutral under the same screw on the buss
@@marvinostman522 Yes it does need to be labeled like you mentioned. The neutral wire also called the grounded conductor is used to carry current back to the source. So it's a current carrying conductor. The ground wire is used to bond conductive surfaces in order to provide a path for fault current. Its not considered a current carrying conductor because in does not carry current during normal operation. When a fault occurs the equipment ground wire carries fault current back to the panel where it travels across the system bonding jumper to the system neutral and back to the source. Remember the ground rod is there for surge protection (primarily cause by lightning) and is not a very good path for fault current. As a matter of fact without the bond to neutral the ground rod or electrode would not allow enough current to flow to trip a standard 20A breaker.
You can use a 20amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit so long as it’s not a dedicated circuit and the breaker is 15amps. You 100% use anti shorts on the mc flex especially since a lot of dudes out there don’t get the connectors with intergraded anti shorts.
No you cannot by code (showed in video) install a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit. You can probably use anti-shorts as long as an inspector doesn't ding you on 110.3(B)
Can I also run two Romex wire in the same knockout hole in a plastic two gang box. Three gang box, four gang box also Also add NEC code for that would be nice
I don't find anything in the code that specifically prohibits two cables in the cable clamp. However it is implied since it does say that single gang non-metallic boxes without clamps can contain multiple cables. I think it comes down to 110.3 (B) where we need to follow the manufacturers instructions which would depend on the box manufacturer. This one on those things that comes down to the interpretation of the AHJ if you cannot find what the manufacturer recommends. I could be missing something... There are plenty of clamps in these boxes so the need to add two cables to one clamp should not be required.
For when using a switch leg. I've always been taught to use the white wire from the light to the switch. So that the black wire gets connected to the light. Is that a code thing or just safe practice?
200.7(C) If used for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet. This is to prevent any confusion at the light about which wire is actually the neutral.
The problem were i live is the electrical code isn't available to the public an most electricians are self inspected (so they write the compliance cert sometimes without checking there work or the other worker who is installing it), so until something goes wrong (house burns down, serious injury etc) or a complaint gets put through you can be an might be living in a death trap....The amount of registered electricians i have had that don't do things right boggles my mind, this is why i believe knowledge is key an should be available but state exactly what a DIY person is allowed to do an what requires a certification (as there are grey areas) - when i say death trap like installing 3 phase cabling through steel framing with no protection an it cutting the wires (cause they clearly didn't want to spend $50 or so on conduit for a 7k job) great video :)
if you live in the US, you can buy a copy of the NEC. but it would be nice to have it available in public libraries. it would also be nice if the NFPA would go back to having it available in PDF format.
File a Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) with your local jurisdiction. Each one writes their own electrical code. They usually adopt the NEC and then enumerate any exceptions. Since the NEC is LEGALLY incorporated into local laws, a copy should be available for public inspection along with the municipal ordinance. There are court cases affirming this; I don't have citations offhand.
@@jovetj self inspected electricians will obviously "overlook" any violations they WANT to make, but they will also miss most of their errors, as well, just like proofreading your own writing.
Bonus myth: On a 20A circuit that terminates in a single location, you can't use a 15A duplex receptacle. I can't cite the exact code section, but this is a misinterpretation of the rule that for a 20A circuit supplying a single receptacle, the receptacle must be 20A. However, 15A receptacles are allowed on 20A circuits where there is more than one receptacle, and a duplex receptacle counts as two receptacles on that circuit, so a lone 15A duplex receptacle CAN be used on a 20A circuit. Not saying it's a good idea; just saying it's a common myth.
That is true. I think the terminology in the article is directed toward two or more 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit but it can be misleading as written.
9:10 Interesting that the chart shows you can't put a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit (makes sense). But you can put a 50A receptacle on a 40A circuit ???
Trick question... depends on the wire size. You don't want to get caught in the middle with a continuous draw appliance and allow a larger draw than the rest of the circuit can handle. If your wire was rated for 50 amps then why have a 40 amp breaker? The breakers cost about the same.
Wire size is determined by the overcurrent device not the receptacle that's installed. 220.18. Remember that the table I show applies to branch circuits that supply more than one receptacle.
@@BackyardMaine back to my "trick question".... nobody makes a 40 amp receptacle so you are stuck with something else. A 50 amp plug is probably not a good choice on a 40 amp circuit, although some might argue it's close enough because of the 80% rule.
@@rupe53 Sorry. I was answering comment quickly and I missed your intent. You are correct there is no NEMA 40A receptacles. I was focusing on the circuit rating and wire size.
Damn, I got dinged by an electrician that told me that I couldn't use phase tape to turn "neutrals" into "hots" when I needed to get my box inspected for new solar.
Not true check your code. (C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More The use of insulation that is white or gray or that has three continuous white or gray stripes for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or more shall be permitted only as in (1) and (2). If part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded conductor by marking tape, painting, or other effective means at its termination and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. Identification shall encircle the insulation and shall be a color other than white, gray, or green. If used for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet. A flexible cord having one conductor identified by a white or gray outer finish or three continuous white or gray stripes, or by any other means permitted by 400.22, that is used for connecting an appliance or equipment permitted by 400.10. This shall apply to flexible cords connected to outlets whether or not the outlet is supplied by a circuit that has a grounded conductor.
As long as it's in a cable or cord you can re-identify a white to be used as a hot. The commenter below is incorrect. Many electricians get this wrong because they confuse the requirements in 200.6. Maybe I need to make a dedicated video discussing this subject.
When re-identifying a wire, it must be permanently marked on some way: how is applying some electrical tape "permanent"? I cant really think of any other plausible method that ISN'T permanent, aside from tape. I scribble them black with a Sharpie. 🤷♂️
Surely you *NEVER* connect neutral to earth/ground? The Distribution Network Operator routinely does, yes, but the consumer *never* does except for brief tests.
The neutral (grounded conductor) is required to be bonded to the grounding electrode conductor at the first switch or panel. This bond is crucial to the safety and reliability of the system and can only be done in one location
“The receptacle is higher than the circuit, so it’s protected, right?” Using the breaker as the primary limiter instead of the safety backup it’s supposed to be is like saying “I can drive as fast as I want, because the crumple zones/seat belts/air bags will protect me if I get in a crash.” 🤣
@@BackyardMaine Oh, no, I was totally agreeing with you, just not the person who would have made that comment about the breaker protecting the circuit so the outlet didn’t matter! It’s like football helmets becoming safer, so players use their heads as battering rams more, while the designers are saying “No, we did that in case you *accidentally* hit your head!” Safety measures are there in case something goes wrong; they shouldn’t be relied on for normal use.
It is required but in 40 years as an electrician and an electrical engineer I have never seen it done even once. The requirement is actually a fairly new update. I don't think it's really necessary for an experienced electrician. I know I can tighten it to or slightly over spec without a torque driver. The spec is actually quite wide. With large cable I would always torque but not on electrical receptacles and light switches.
The bottom line is this. A neutral can only be bonded to ground in one location usually at the first service disconnect. So when connecting a generator for back up, the generator needs to have a floating neutral meaning it's not bonded to ground. This way the bond is still in one location as required by code. If not you can have all sorts of issues. It is possible to remove the bond if your generator is bonded. For a connection like I showed in a previous video the generator needs to be floating. In this case a ground rod is not required or recommended. Some generators, often whole home backup systems will have a bonded neutral. In this case the transfer switch needs to also switch the neutral conductor along with the hots to maintain a single bond. Then the generator would be considered a separately derived system. These system are required to be connected to a grounding electrode if not already connect to an existing electrode. Since we're not switching the ground wire we would still be connected to the building electrode, so it would still not be required. It is a common practice to install a ground rod with these system but we need to be far enough away from the existing electrode as per 250 in the code.
That's a nice desk. I wish I had that kind of money. Food would be nice right now. While some things aren't exactly code required, there is still best practices, like no splices in circuit box. Best to avoid it IF possible. Antioxidant paste is also a good practice. Won't hurt anything to go the extra effort. It is also better practice to use bushings and fittings on MC as long as it doesn't violate a code. I am the kind of attitude where it is better to have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it. And if it exceeds code and doesn't violate it, why not ? Also, when people build a house or have a rewire, they should always go with the highest amperes possible. For example, eliminate all 14 gauge wire, the smallest should be 12, and thicker for higher circuits. And kitchen circuits should always have a separate circuit from the top to the bottom portion of the outlet. Prevents overloading when the toaster oven, fryer, coffee maker, simmer cooker, etc are all on at the same time. Also light circuits should be independent so that IF there is a problem, you're not in the dark wondering what happened. Great video. Maybe one day I will be able to afford nice things. Maybe one day, I'll be able to afford food again.
there are several reasons for not putting a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. Probably the most important reason is that a 20-amp appliance in that receptacle would cause frequent tripping. That will cause the breaker to wear faster. But the home user might try to prevent the tripping by placing a 20-amp breaker to replace the 15. This would result in a dangerous situation where a 20 amp breaker was protecting 15-amp wire.
I wonder if there even are any consumer grade appliances with 20 amp plugs? I've never seen any. I have a large toaster oven that draws 1800 watts which is close to the 80% limit of 20 amps but it has a standard cord. Of course it doesn't really get any continuous use for more than about a half hour. I have it on it's own 20 amp circuit and a single 20 amp receptacle.
Is a duplex receptacle considered a single receptacle. Also is there a code that says no device shall be used in a circuit that is of a lower amperage rating than the overcurrent device supplying power to that circuit.
Good questions. First a duplex receptacle is two receptacle on a single device yoke as per article 100. A single receptacle has just one receptacle per device yoke. Also 15A receptacles are rated for 20A passthrough current per their uL listing. So they can safely carry 20A and are permitted to be installed on a 20A circuit as long as it's not a single receptacle. 15A receptacles are designed so a 20A plug cannot be connected. A 20A plug will have one horizontal blade and will not physically connect to a 15A device. I hope this helps.
We had an old ( since retired ) inspector that only allowed either colored shrink wrap tuning or black ( or other color other then white, green or grey ) paint to reidentify a white conducyor.
It can be tough to fight city hall but the AHJ cannot make up requirements. The will win every argument about interpretation but in this case its clear that other methods are compliant. I get it though. If you piss off an inspector you can make your life miserable.
On 200.7C there is a caveat, Note the words CABLE ASSEMBLY. That means it's only OK to re-identify a white wire in Romex, MC, BX, or other manufactured cable assembly. What you can't do is to re-identify a single white, gray, or green, THHN inside a conduit. I assume the reason is that it is just as easy to pull the the right color wire in this case.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
I get apprentices and journeymen that argue these things with me all the time, they claim that because the code does not require these practices, they should not have to do them. I demand certain standards of work, and my argument is why should our goal be the laziest, shittiest install we can get away with? Kinda funny that these same guys are the ones who are willing to ignore actual code requirements at times and try to get away with it, then bitch and whine when they fail inspections. Aluminum anti-ox is not required sure, but over time it still prevents corrosion. Anti-shorts are not required, but we still use them to avoid wire abrasion.
Side note on wasting money on 20 amp receptacles for residential settings. I installed over 25 receptacles in my house and only have one 20 amp receptacle ( because that was they only color I needed in stock for a GFCI ) In the 50 years living in the house and having contractors using large table saws, hammer drills , worm drive 8.5" circular saws. Floor sander, etc never had a 20 amp 120 volt male plug that had to be plugged in. I took a few different companies 15 & 20 amp duplex spec & cheaper grades receptacles apart and they all were made with the same guage & material. So don't waste money on 20 amp dup!ex receptacles.
It always depends on the AHJ and what the inspector wants to see. I built a service where one inspector passed it and the next one did not on the other. One situation was I was knocked down for not using colored wire on wire less than #6. I taped up the conductors and I had to come back and use green and white wire. Another time the inspector required me to go lugs hot on a 6-12 panel. I had the Z-clip and fed the main service conductors to a HOM2100 breaker but was told that the service wires had to be landed on the lugs. What keeps someone from putting 3 100 amp breakers in the panel and overloading it. In my career, came across a trashy slum trailer court lord that had a service burn to the ground because he had a 6-12 100 amp panel stuffed with 3 100 amp breakers feeding separate trailers.
Some get confused on this. 200.6 tells us that the neutral grounded conductor size 6AWG and smaller needs to be a colored white or gray with a few other manufactured options. And that for 4AWG and larger they can be colored or marked by an approved means at every termination. But 200.7 allows a white or gray wire that's part of a cable assemble (like NM cable shown in the video) to be re-identified as a hot ungrounded conductor at its termination and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. I have had to read this to inspectors in the past. There job is code enforcement not code writing.
You cannot reidentify white wires in a switch box though. Code tells you you need a neutral every switch now. No-lox is just good practice. Use it outside, in bad environments, or any place with excessive moisture. You will figure this out when a leg goes on a main breaker.
A neutral has been required in switch boxes since 2011 with 5 exceptions. In 2023 they removed exception 2 so there there are four exceptions where a neutral is not required. But since 2011 and not including any of the exceptions 404.2 tells us that we only need a neutral in of the switch boxes where multiple switches control the same lights. So with 3-way and 4-way switches only one box requires a neutral by code and a re-identified white wire used as a traveler is code compliant. I would agree that No-lox or another brand of antioxidant may be a good idea in a corrosive environment.
You can reidentify any wire in a cable assembly to anything you'd like. It's not best practice to do with white, gray, or green but you can. You can't reidentify a bare wire though. Flexible cords also require ground to be green and insulated. You can phase tape any hot/ungrounded single conductor wire any color that's not reserved (green, white, gray, orange for high leg. Plus three grey/white stripes along a conductor; length wise, not circular. Green with 3 yellow stripes is reserved for grounding conductors.) You do need to keep the colors consistent across your phases. If you have multiple systems the colors need to stay constant. Like Black, Red, Blue, White for 120 and Brown, Orange/Violet, Yellow, Gray for 480. But if there's only one system then there's no "standard" in NEC code, other then keeping the phases the same labeling/color/tag. You can only reidentify a color for a single conductor that's not protected into a protected color if it's 4 gauge or larger. (Code says #6 or smaller, which is the same thing) So white stays white, green stays green, gray stays gray, black/orange/red/maroon/teal can be anything you want it to be. (This would be 200.6, which talks about grounded conductors 250.119 talks about equipment grounding conductor/EGC or your ground conductors. They both start with how the cable color shall be identified, and then allows remarking of other conductors. 210.5(c)(1) talks about branch circuits and it's required colors.) There's also some other stuff that can be exceptions or requirements, like DC circuits which have a reserved red and black (along with white, gray, and green.). It boils down to if you are pulling individual wires in raceways, you should be able to purchase the colors you need in the smaller sizes. But with cable assemblies, what you get is what you get. For larger sizes colors might not be available. The NEC is huge, and has a lot of very dense and very specific info.
What the code says in 200.6 is conductors 6 and smaller need to be colored to what they are. White or gray for neutral, green, green with yellow stripes or bare for ground. Anything but those colors for hots. 4 and larger can be field marked. 200.7 allows us to re-identify the white wire to use as a hot when part of a cable or flexible cord
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Splices terminating in the panel are fine. A panel isn't a junction box however.
@@shawnshurtz9147 Agreed. I don't think a splice would be necessary very often during initial installation. But often time we want to add a sub panel or we may need to more some circuits around and splices will be our only option.
where can I get the NEC code book?
Two other factors governing the use of anti-short bushings:
1, Some agencies require the use of all supplied components from the manufacturer.(whether actually required or not.)
2. Some jurisdictions still have the requirement on the books from decades ago. (Hence, why they're still shipped.)
Legacy; code, standards, and requirements exist all over industry!
My boss requires the use of them and he supplies all the materials so I use them.
Last rolls I bought didn't have any come to think.of it never have gotten any on the 1000 foot rolls.
@@thomasmarable6818 , Interesting. That's information. That'd release some from the obligation. Others would order them specifically.
Liked the info; it’s funny to me that perceptions can be just so strong and at times even defy code. I know where I am if you don’t use no Alox you’ll fail an inspection and won’t get a service sticker to allow equipment to be energized. You can show a code section but the gist is safer rather than sorry and it’s not hurting anyone. I was so glad to get out of the commercial space as industrial/municipal is so much better and more sane, at least as far as code compliance. The biggest thing to try to convince people of is following torque spec, as it is required but, seemingly rarely followed, at least outside of larger equipment.
6 months ago i installed a new I-line panel 480 v 800 amp and used a torque wrench on every connection and breaker. it's surprising how much torque it actually takes to tighten up the lugs. 300 - 500 inch lbs is a hell of alot.
I was surprised by the splicing in the panel. I was watching my electrician doing a panel upgrade and saw him doing a ton of splices in the panel. It was a combination of old wiring and the panel length increasing that required him to splice a bunch of wires just to get them to reach the new breakers. I guess people forget that splices always need access (in addition to what you read as code) and you certainly have access in the panel. Thanks for keeping us informed.
It would be horribly impractical if splices weren't allowed. What's the alternative? Putting a bunch of boxes outside the panel?
I was surprised too. When i installed my new panel I had a few circuits where I was short of wire on the old runs so did the extensions in a box outside the new panel. Would have been simpler inside for sure. I live in Ontario so it might be different, something I’ll have to check if I ever need it again.
Hey John! Thanks for this one - I must admit that the 15A/20A receptacle on a 15A breaker was new to me. I've never tried to do this (we use 15A recepts on our resi projects), but my internal "common sense" would have told me that there was no issue (similar to putting 20A wire, or #12 AWG, on a 15A breaker - it's still protected). But the point about "encouraging" the use of higher-wattage (20A cord cap) equipment from a receptacle/load point of view does make perfect sense!
Very welcome.. When I talk about code compliance I try to provide some context. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
@@BackyardMaine Totally agree - helps us all to remember those codes as well when we understand a "why".
no only an electrician would know the difference. ave consumer wouldn't know . they just plug in whatever they got
@@ronblack7870 A 20A plug will not physically connect to a 15A receptacle.
I understand why the no ox requirement was waived as I live in Colorado where the weather is as dry as a popcorn fart. The thing is, I’ve dealt with low voltage RJ45 connectors in marine environments and the air alone in that environment is aggressive enough that anti oxidation materials are prudent regardless of code recommendations.
I would agree that it’s a good idea in a corrosive environment although it’s not required.
Good info, thanks!
I encourage you to get a padded mat under your feet while standing at your desk. That concrete floor will damage you.
Thanks. I was actually thinking that while I was recording this video. Much appreciated.
In depth but also simple to understand. As always, great video John!
Much appreciated my friend.
My grandparents had a new house built in 2004 in Arizona. In 2007 an aluminum wire feeding the AC Compressor corroded at the panel and started a cascade failure, melting the wire. It left burn marks on the trusses and other framing; it damn near burned down the house. Noalox was not used on either end. I learned 2 things from this incident. If I have AL wire, I use Noalox, period, regardless of code. Also, when I built my new house, I spent the extra money and used copper for feeding subpanels, ovens and HVAC. Was it expensive? Yes. Am I ever going to have to worry about it? No.
Iv'e seen examples of aluminum wire feeding manufacturing plants corroding to the point of catastrophic short and explosion. And there have been many a mobile home burning to the ground because of aluminum wiring. I would never even consider it's use in ANY building or equipment. It should have been outlawed decades ago.
copper isn't even that much more expensive in smaller sizes.
And follow the instructions on the NoAlOx bottle, and torque to spec.
@@charliesullivan4304 and use any actual brand but Noalox.
More than likely it was a loose connection.. that caused that. Not the lack of nolox. Alot of fires could be prevented if people properly used a torque wrench when installing.
If copper is clamped onto aluminium it can cause corrosion.
WAGO allows to use its clamps with aluminium only with anti-corrosion paste.
WAGO offers anti-corrosion paste for this purpose.
Omitting this paste is a violation of the manufacturer's specifications.
The new AA-8000 aluminum conductors are rated for copper lugs with no antioxidant paste. But if you find the manufacture has not caught up and still requires it then you should use it with their equipment.
Just using a wago is asking for a fire
@@MrUbiquitousTechthe entire rest of the world uses wago-type connectors just fine. 🙄
@@OrdinaryDude67 🤣😂
@@BackyardMainethe code section you showed says that aluminum is one of the conductor types allowed, and that aluminum has to be an 8000 series alloy unless it's bigger than 1000 MCM. It does not say that AA-8000 is interchangeable with copper. If you have a device with terminals that are spec'ed for copper wire only, you cannot use AA-8000 in it. Whether NoAlOx is required also goes by the manufacturer instructions.
When I first started learning the Code, one thing became very clear: it is not a guide to the best practices for using and installing electrical devices. It is the base requirement that can be approved. Do you have to install a redhead when installing armored cable? Nope. But, you are a fool if you do not. A proficient worker could find dozens of such examples. Don't confuse code requirements for good methodologies.
So even though NEMA says don't use them, they are not required by code, the connectors are not listed for their use, and the reason people think they're needed is because they confuse the requirement with what's required for BX we should still use them... The code is far from a minimum standard. I have been in the business as an electrician or an electrical engineer for 40 years and have spend considerable time writing best practice methods and procedures for a semiconductor manufacturing company. There are very few instances when the code needs to be exceeded.
@@BackyardMainehave you seen fools using dykes to cut it instead of a mc cable stripper. Leaves that nice sharp edge.
@@BackyardMaine In that case sir, you need to talk to somebody who knows more than you do. Apparently, you think I don't. It's fine, I started doing electrical work in 1964. So whose is bigger? It doesn't matter whose is bigger, it matters what the best practice is. Any person with one working eyeball can see a sharp edge and a conductor that needs to be protected. Is there a functional distinction between the sharp edge of BX and the sharp edge of AC or MC??? If NEMA can't see that, then perhaps they should visit a good eye surgeon. The code clearly states that all work should be done in a workmanlike manner, and that is the coverage for this approach of best practice. HTH.
like you said code is bare minimum
@@stevedonovan22 Not even close.
In every dwelling unit I've worked in, it is a universal practice to install 15A receptacles on the required 20A kitchen, bathroom, laundry room and garage receptacles. Equipment with NEMA 5-20 plugs are very seldom encountered in a typical family home, so I've only installed single NEMA 5-20R devices in homes to identify it as a 20A individual branch circuit for something like a large refrigerator or expresso machine if the manufacturer's instructions specify a 120V 20A individual branch circuit regardless of whether the equipment in question has a 15 or 20a plug, since per the NEC a single receptacle outlet on a branch circuit must match the rating of the overcurrent protection device.
In the unlikely event you see an appliance with a 120V 20A plug, such as a commercial grade microwave oven for example, even if the electrician had installed 20A devices on the 20A circuits, you should check the instruction manual because it will probably say something like "FOR USE ON AN INDIVIDUAL 120VAC, 60Hz, 20 AMPERE BRANCH CIRCUIT ONLY" in which case 110.3 (B) applies.
As always, we need to also be aware of any local codes which may be more stringent than or have requirements that go beyond the NEC. For example some jurisdictions could require 20A devices to be installed on 20A circuits even though the NEC permits 15 or 20A devices on 20A circuits.
I agree with everything in your comment. Thanks for adding to the conversation.
Never seen any jurisdiction require 20amp receptical on 20 amp branch circuits
good stuff. you answered most of the questions I could never find. Thanks!!
Many of these may not be required but reflect better installation practices when used. It is always best if you can have workmanship that always "meets or exceeds code" than simply "meets code".
I completely agree with better workmanship and best practices. But I don't agree with doing something that provides no value to the customer and actually is not recommend by the manufacturer. In this case it does not exceed anything other than possibly the bill. If your plumber painted all your copper pipe would than exceed code since its not required?
@@BackyardMaine Exactly. Too many have the belief/perception that "minimum" code (perhaps we should stop using the word minimum, with all its connotations) is exactly one small step away from a disaster so exceeding the minimum gets you farther away from that disaster. Nonsensical.
The code may not require anti-ox, but there are still manufacturers that require it, and the code states if anti-ox is required by the manufacture, then it is required by the code.
If the inspector wants to be a pain in the ass then that's one of the first things they try to enforce. Best practice is to smear a little bit of paste on the front side of the wire insulation to make it look as though it was used hence you avoid the hassle to begin with
110.3(B)?
@@weavercattlecompany that is a half ass deceitful scabby way to do things
@@weavercattlecompany that is not a "best practice".
I was doing some MC recently in the attic and my old Greenlee cutter was in the basement, but my little M12 bandsaw was at hand. I tried it on the MC and obviously, it cut the MC. Just then I used my good ol Klien reamer/debur to remove any edge (there was almost none), I have a ton of old single screw fasteners (not the new ones you show). The protector goes in nice and smooth.
It looks like the collar/clap type connectors for use without the bushing may cause issues as the clamp could squeeze down on the cable and bushing too much.
BTW: The little M12 bandsaw is great for EMT, RMC, MC, copper, AL, etc.
You can use and reidentified white conductor as a phase conductor only if it’s part of cable assembly
I put up 200.7 in the video.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
@@pld8993 where i can find it in the NEC book ?
@@nicholassmi4091 There is no explicit allowance in the NEC that addresses it the way I have, but there is no prohibition. This is a clear example of the importance of comprehensive NEC knowledge (as opposed to knowing just the rule you're focusing on). The NEC says a grounded conductor must be white its entire length, for example. Changing that entire length color to black now disallows it as a grounded conductor and allows it to be used as an ungrounded conductor (which can't be white, gray or green). Changing a black conductor to white along its entire length allows it to be used as a neutral. There is nothing in the NEC that says conductor color must be directly from the manufacturer. Field markings are allowed unless otherwise prohibited.
@@BackyardMaine when we have an electrical conduit we are not allowed to pull an individual white color conductor and re-identify it . If i am wrong please send me section of NEC that can proof that i am mistaken. And Section 200.7 saying that we can re-identify only if it is (1) part of cable assembly , (2) A flexible cord. Thank you
There's still a few questions I have.
1. Related to re-identifying a white wire as a hot wire. What does code define as a "permanent" marking? Electrical tape can be peeled off after it's applied, and to me, isn't permanent. I've thought of using heat shrink tubing for this, because it doesn't suffer from the problems that electrical tape or permanent markers have, and also wraps 360 degrees around the wire, but it can also be removed once it's applied, just like electrical tape.
2. Related to the 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. Does the same apply to switches too? Could it be the situation with switches is actually reverse of receptacles? Or something else?
Electrical tape is an approved method listed in 200.7(C) in the code.
The NEC allows a 15A-rated switch to control loads on a 20A circuit as long as the switch is used to control a lighting load or other device that does not exceed the switch's rating. This is because switches are designed to handle the current drawn by the load they are controlling, not necessarily the full capacity of the circuit.
NEC 404.14: The relevant section of the NEC (404.14) indicates that snap switches, such as typical light switches, are allowed to be used on circuits with a higher ampacity than the switch rating, provided the load does not exceed the switch rating.
The NEC does not say the marking method must be permanent, as in not removable. It says "permanently reidentified...by marking tape, painting or other effective means..."
For reidentifying white wires as hots, you might want to add that while you can do that to a cable assembly such as romex or MC- you cannot do this for THHN in a conduit. (Unless the wire is #4 or larger)
Correct. I did show the text in 200.7 detailing that fact but maybe I should have said it as well. I was showing and talking about NM cable so I didn't think it was necessary.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
That's why I use blue THCC and tape-label them at all terminations. Seems legal, amirite?
Good channel. You explain things in a down to earth fashion, classic Mainah.
Thank you..
This is REALLY some good information❗️Thanks for keeping us updated👍
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
When reidentifying a wire with tape, I recommend NOT using black tape. Black tape can be mistaken as a repair of the insulation rather than a reidentification. If you must repair the insulation on a neutral conductor, use white tape so someone doesn't mistake it for a reidentified wire.
The above isn't a code requirement; it's just a best practice.
A better way would be not using the white wire as live, just run new romex. Stay safe
@@thecorzofamily9483 Sometimes not practical, and a tape repair meets code requirement and provides moire than sufficient electrical insulation.
Actually, a black tape repair on a white conductor and using it as a neutral would be a code violation. Grounded conductor must be white its entire length and a 1" wide piece of black tape renders it not white along its entire length.
thats why i use RED heatshrink and then I label it as well
I know that anti short bushings are not required on MC cable but always use them. After stripping any armored cable jacket cut the sharp edge at a 45 degree angle When cable companies supply undersized anti short bushings will install two of them staggered around wires.Can remember the coated flimsy paper anti short bushings from the 1960's. Often after a few short years in a damp location they would fall apart.
Clear and concise. Thank you!
I can't imagine not using red-heads on any m/c cable. The clamps can still squish the armor.
the pop in connectors dont
@@JeffPenaifypop in? Do you mean screw in?
@@merlinious01 no the snap on connectors
You are over tighten them please read the instructions before installing.
Love your professionalism!! Thanks good information!!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching friend.
When a conduit type system is installed, the minimum conductor size for re identifying is number four or larger
I put up article 200.7(C) where it states in a cable 1- If part of a cable assembly and 2- If part of a flexible cord.
It’s incredible how much extra work is done because an inspector one time told an electrician that they had to do something even though it had no basis in reality
The code defers to the AHJ, I believe
@@MrAncientAstronaut you’re not wrong, but I think that this is pretty widely misinterpreted.
Just because the individual inspector is a representative of the AHJ doesn’t mean that they can just make stuff up.
I can picture a piece of 2 inch pipe with a 90 in the middle of it supported with a one hole strap and inch away from the coupling. Wow this might technically meet the code requirements that sagging 90 is going to put pressure on the coupling and should be supported.
Requiring anti-shorts where the manufacturers have repeatedly and specifically addressed the matter isn’t open for interpretation.
@@MrAncientAstronaut And some As are AHs.
@@MrAncientAstronaut An individual inspector is not the AHJ and should be called out for made-up code requirements every time.
Yes the white wire (or neutral) can be re designated ( or colored for conducting electricity if needed)
JOHN- Nice job and info as usual. The desk pitch is a little of a stretch
Thanks. I don’t care what anyone buys but I love the desk.
I always find videos diskussing the do's and dont's of electrical installation interesting. They are highlighting the different practices used at different times, at different location, etc. This video is nicely done, I miss however one important piece of information: The area where the contend of this video applies.
I'm located in Europe, and obviously, while the information provided in this video is interesting (and certainly correct) ... it doesn't apply to me. Are laws regarding electrical wireing the same in the whole US, or do they vary per state? Do they apply to Canada as well? ... I would be simply good to say the one important sentence right in the beginning: The content of this video applies only in --- insert region here ---
Thanks.. I often don't think to say that but it's a good idea. Here in the USA we have a national electrical code that has been adopted by all 50 states. Some states will have a few amendment but they are usually minimal. I think the state of Maine where I live has five minor amendments and they are more about terminology rather than standard. Some cities and counties will have more amendments which I think is ridiculous and would love to see that change. Canada has their own code but it is very similar to ours here in the USA.
Check first with your inspector (AHJ) about anti shock inserts, and either flex or Mc wiring.
No, find out what the local code is and follow it. An inspector is not the AHJ; he is enforcing the written codes that the AHJ has adopted.
I'm not a licensed electrician but at my own home, I follow the code book. I was an electronic tech, and know enough to follow the book.
Loving my Flexi spot desk. It's only a 2 legged model, but holy cow it doesn't wobble at all.
I was blown away by this desk. Top quality in a world when everything you buy is disposable.
Very interesting about the MC cable anti-short protectors, John!
I used them for years until I had to prepare to teach a code class and found out they were not actually required.
Our crew sticks with snap/push-in barrel style mc connectors which already has the plastic bushing wire protection but I still use the anti shorts sometimes or pull a tiny bit of slack from the mc cable and wrap a piece of tape over the conductors then retract 'em back into the metal armor if my cut is questionable (I'm often OCD on things though and hate potential mistakes).
@@eds6569 I have used them as well. The bushing on those doesn't actually go up inside the armor at least not the ones I've used.
Great video and I agree about the 20 receptacles on a 15 amp circuit, but in my 60 years, I've actually never seen a 20 amp plug on any appliance. I know they exist, but the toaster oven example isn't one of them. We used to install 20 amp receptacles under the impression that they were built better, but haven't done that in decades.
You will not find any consumer appliances with 20 amp cord caps. What you will find is certain areas requiring a single 20 amp receptacle (dedicated circuit) for appliances like a permanently mounted microwave or similar because some draw 1800+ watts and could be considered as continuous draw even though they are within the 80% rule. That outlet also qualifies as a service disconnect.
commercial grade plugs are rated for plugging and unpluggind things more frequently, but that's pretty much it.
As a DIYer my biggest mistake was not using commercial grade receptacles, especially for locations with frequent plug-ins. These just don't last and I am having to replace them.
@@KameraShy they weren't that easy to get years ago.
@@scottkolaya2110 that depends on how long "years ago" was. In the 70s / 80s we didn't have the flood of units made with Chineseium. If you are talking maybe 25 years ago, that's another story.
Reidentifying/recoloring of the white wire is only allowed in Romex and other multiconductor cable. Not individual conductors.
I showed that in the video. 200.7(C) 1 and 2.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire, or any wire, that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
My favorite thing to do is ask people to show me the specific article in the code that allows or forbids something. It feels like many professionals have never even read the code and only know what they were taught as an apprentice.
*I was typing this out as the video still played. As I was typing you just said "that's what I was taught as an apprentice" 😂
When you got two different metals in contact is when you use the antioxidant and most of what you're saying may not be cold violations but they are really good practices. Fairly certian you cant reidenfied green and white or grey 2023 no grounding or grounded conductor. Also you have to have a neutral in every box. Even if myths its the way it should be done.
The neural only needs to be at one switch box for 3-way and 4-way switches as per 404.2 in the 2023 code. You cannot re-identify a ground wire but you can a neural wire per 200.7 of the 2023 code. AA-8000 conductors can only be connected to connectors that are listed for aluminum wire. Almost all these connectors or lugs used in load centers are listed for copper and aluminum. AL/CU. For a listed a AL/CU lug antioxidant is not required.
The point is there are other legit reasons to re-identify a white wire that do not involve avoiding a neutral in a switch loop's switch box.
@@jovetj I talked about them in the video.
So because we found a way around the old minimum of pipe, we have created so many more problems and also new minimums, that in the long run cost more, but now code allows it, but 1/3 as much wires, afi and, fire alarm equiptment in every home. While it does provide job security, the quality, and effort goes down with every step we take away.
Since when is pipe the old minimum? Ever hear of knob and tube?
Anti shorts are very much required on all Ac/90 and teck cables in the Canadian regs.
Like I said in the video the anti-shorts are required for type AC cable here as well.
Nolox may not be required by code, but it is required by some jurisdictions. Mine specifically does require it
As always, great content, flyboy.
Thank you...
Great stuff!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very helpful
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for keeping me updated 😂
Always!
Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
You also forgot cable sizes 4 or larger can be re-identified cable sizes 6 and smaller can be re-identified if they're part of a cable assembly. If I remember correctly.
You are correct but I didn't forget that. I was referring to cables for home wiring. I showed 200.7 in the video. I didn't show 200.6 since that was really not the point of the video. I may do another video covering marking since so many seem to not understand what you clearly do understand.
Good stuff. 👍👍
Time to cook some popcorn and go read the comment section 😆😆
Hope you enjoy. Same deal with the forums.. Arm chair experts who don't read the code.
Code requires installation per MFG instructions. Anti short bussings are required accordingly.
NEMA stands for National Electrical Manufacturers Association. They do not require Anti-shorts for MC cable. And since the connectors are not listed for use with anti-shorts you could be in violation of 110.3(B) by using them.
A lot of this kind of grief can be avoided by reading the manufacturer’s instructions. But that’s contrary to human nature.
Many will study the code to get licensed and then take a code update every three years as required. They don't read the manufacturers instructions and they don't read the code. Then they argue with those that do..
200.7(C)(1) is in relation to cable assemblies, so Romex/mc/cable tray etc. is fine. But pulling a white THWN-2 in a conduit and then reidentifying it is not.
Yes I believe I showed that in the video. It also applies to flexible cords as well.
You're correct
@@BackyardMaine You showed Romex, but didn't mention it. Also didn't mention it's strictly in relation to cable assemblies.
Not that a lot of home owners would use individual conductors, the point is still the same.
200.7(C)(2) would be for flexible cords, at least in the 2023 revision.
@@Crasoum I actually showed the code article in the video which states its for cable assemblies and below that was (2) for flexible cords.. The reasoning is that with conduct you can pull in the correct wire color.
@@BackyardMaine No argument there, my sticking point had more to do with how people tend to approach information (they take it at face value and don't read the fine print.)
You say anything confidently enough and most people will take it in without a second thought.
Here’s a good one…how many NM wires can a 3/4 metal romex connector hold??
As many as it's rated for!
Connectors for NM cable will be listed for a certain number and size cables. This listing or rating needs to be followed by the installer to meet 110.3 (B)
Here I just saw a jiffy marker type tool that had a donut-shaped nib that you can feed the wire through to mark the whole thing at once.
I just saw that as well. lol
I've often wanted one with a hook, a closed loop just seems like more bother than benefit.
25 years ago I saw that tip in a magazine, drill hole in tip of marker for easy wire id. Tried it on one job and even though I trimmed out days after I marked them, went home with sharpee ink all over my hands. The first time was the last timeNeat idea, not so great in practice.
At 9:40 you should also mention the load restriction of a 20 amp breaker. This load shall not exceed 80% of the breaker. The standard for most household circuits are rated either 15 amps or 20 amps. An important note to remember is that circuit breakers can only handle about 80% of their overall amperage. That means a 15-amp circuit breaker can handle around 12-amps and a 20-amp circuit breaker can handle about 16 amps.
The National Electrical Code (NEC) doesn't specify how many outlets can go on a 20-amp circuit. Instead, it focuses on the circuit's maximum power capacity-2,400 watts in this case-and recommends a safety margin of 80% of that load's total capacity. Jun 26, 2024
That's maximum continuous load. For example a toaster is not considered a continuous load. Also a circuit breaker is designed to carry full circuit load indefinitely. The breakers trip at their set rating and time curve but is list for it's full load.
@BackyardMaine I see that you're getting a good grasp of the NEC. Thank you.
@@BackyardMaine yes, the continuous load is the new benchmark on so many things now that we commonly see permanently installed microwaves and EVs in the garage.
Thanks for another great piece!!!!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching..
Backyard Maine, What is your opinion on Fuses vs Circuit breakers? Are not fuses more positive to open on the overcurrent rating then Circuit breakers?
Circuit breakers have become very reliable and I would rather have them than a fuse in a residential setting. A breaker can be reset easily and be used to turn off and on a circuit safely if needed. Fuses are pretty much fool proof when it comes to reliability. The issue with them in residential use is they can't be easily and safely replaced by an inexperienced person. They cannot be reset so you will need to buy a fuse when one blows and an inexperienced person could easily put in a larger fuse to keep it from tripping not knowing they have created a hazard. I hope this helps.
I'd always trust a fuse and a newer breaker equally, but I'd trust a 50 year old fuse before I'd trust a 50 year old breaker.
Use the antishorting bushings!. I have MC in my home, and even with the MC cable connectors its still possible for the clad to cut in to the wire and cause a short! The bushings are cheap & easy to install why take a risk & cut corners for something as cheap & easy?
Absolutely use them if you want. I doubt if many inspectors will fail the use based on 110.
8:51 - This is a common sense requirement: a 20 amp receptacle will accept cords connected to equipment that may draw higher currents than the 15 amp breaker can handle safely.
And yet some people are arguing in the comments that its acceptable.. lol
Installing a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit is just lying to the end-user. Seeing a 20A receptacle should tell you that circuit is sized and properly wired to deliver 20A. You wouldn't install a 50A receptacle on a 30A circuit either. Edit: And you wouldn't install a 3ɸ receptacle on a 1ɸ circuit.
@@jovetj Well said.
Awesome video!
Thanks for the visit
Here are a few more myths. General purpose receptacles in dwellings are calculated at 180 watts or 1-1/2 amps. You can only put 10 receptacles on a circuit in a dwelling. Voltage drop is “required” to be no more than 2% on a feeder and not more than 3% on a branch circuit. Conductor ampacity ratings must always be at 60C in 310.15(B)(16) for 15 amp through 60 amp circuits. The “ONLY” place that grounded conductors and equipment grounds are bonded is at the first means of disconnect in the system. The device that you plug your appliance into is called an “outlet”. Circuit breakers will trip as soon as they go over their rating, IE 21 amps on a 20 amp rated breaker. Ground fault current on equipment grounds goes to the grounding electrode system for protection. These are just a few more for you. If you need clarification, just ask a question.
You’re correct. I can come
Up with many more too.
Those are some good ones, better than this list, I'd say, of which only one was something I didn't know but never really thought about (and I'm not a licensed electrician). The Ground fault current one is common enough I've had to explain it to multiple people before.
@@jovetj So if not a licensed electrician, what do you do? Many do not know where a ground fault goes.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
You bet! Thanks for watching my friend.
I like your site because you go to the code book. I have a question about using a GFCI outlet to replace a two wire outlet. I believe that it meets code and supposedly will trip as designed but I believe it still does not give you a path to ground. I think I heard that you should not put a ground and neutral under the same screw in the buss bar in a panel. Under no circumstances should a ground use the neutral back to a panel. Please direct me to a verified authority.
You can install a GFCI on a circuit without a ground wire and it will still work. Yes always keep the neutral and ground separate and never use a ground wire as a neutral. All of this is detailed in the NEC.
Yes I knew you use the GFCI to replace a two wire outlet. However doesn’t it need to be labeled “no equipment ground.” This tells me you still do not have a path to ground. Grounds and neutrals do not do the same thing, is that correct. They go to the same place but they are not the same. That is why you shouldn’t put a ground and neutral under the same screw on the buss
@@marvinostman522 Yes it does need to be labeled like you mentioned. The neutral wire also called the grounded conductor is used to carry current back to the source. So it's a current carrying conductor. The ground wire is used to bond conductive surfaces in order to provide a path for fault current. Its not considered a current carrying conductor because in does not carry current during normal operation. When a fault occurs the equipment ground wire carries fault current back to the panel where it travels across the system bonding jumper to the system neutral and back to the source. Remember the ground rod is there for surge protection (primarily cause by lightning) and is not a very good path for fault current. As a matter of fact without the bond to neutral the ground rod or electrode would not allow enough current to flow to trip a standard 20A breaker.
No, you can make splices in panels as long as you don’t have too many splices on the same breaker, check your load requirements!
I believe I stated we can make a splice in a panel.
Like the Air Force hat
I still use the anti short bushing regardless
You can use a 20amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit so long as it’s not a dedicated circuit and the breaker is 15amps.
You 100% use anti shorts on the mc flex especially since a lot of dudes out there don’t get the connectors with intergraded anti shorts.
No you cannot by code (showed in video) install a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit. You can probably use anti-shorts as long as an inspector doesn't ding you on 110.3(B)
Can I also run two Romex wire in the same knockout hole in a plastic two gang box. Three gang box, four gang box also
Also add NEC code for that would be nice
I don't find anything in the code that specifically prohibits two cables in the cable clamp. However it is implied since it does say that single gang non-metallic boxes without clamps can contain multiple cables. I think it comes down to 110.3 (B) where we need to follow the manufacturers instructions which would depend on the box manufacturer. This one on those things that comes down to the interpretation of the AHJ if you cannot find what the manufacturer recommends. I could be missing something... There are plenty of clamps in these boxes so the need to add two cables to one clamp should not be required.
@@BackyardMaine ah I see understand thank you very much
Thank you - great information!
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching.
For when using a switch leg. I've always been taught to use the white wire from the light to the switch. So that the black wire gets connected to the light. Is that a code thing or just safe practice?
200.7(C) If used for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet.
This is to prevent any confusion at the light about which wire is actually the neutral.
Using a white wire for hot is only when it's in a cable assembly, otherwise it has to be greater then 6awg
I showed that in the video. It also cover flexible cord.
In my experience in my part of the world it is required by the AHJ!
I would ask them to point out the code reference..
The problem were i live is the electrical code isn't available to the public an most electricians are self inspected (so they write the compliance cert sometimes without checking there work or the other worker who is installing it), so until something goes wrong (house burns down, serious injury etc) or a complaint gets put through you can be an might be living in a death trap....The amount of registered electricians i have had that don't do things right boggles my mind, this is why i believe knowledge is key an should be available but state exactly what a DIY person is allowed to do an what requires a certification (as there are grey areas)
- when i say death trap like installing 3 phase cabling through steel framing with no protection an it cutting the wires (cause they clearly didn't want to spend $50 or so on conduit for a 7k job)
great video :)
You can purchase a code book. Anyone can but I will say without training they can be hard to interpret.
if you live in the US, you can buy a copy of the NEC. but it would be nice to have it available in public libraries. it would also be nice if the NFPA would go back to having it available in PDF format.
File a Freedom of Information Act (FOIA) with your local jurisdiction. Each one writes their own electrical code. They usually adopt the NEC and then enumerate any exceptions. Since the NEC is LEGALLY incorporated into local laws, a copy should be available for public inspection along with the municipal ordinance. There are court cases affirming this; I don't have citations offhand.
Self-inspection is pointless. It's like expecting all computer programmers to write perfectly-functioning bug-free code 100% of the time.
@@jovetj self inspected electricians will obviously "overlook" any violations they WANT to make, but they will also miss most of their errors, as well, just like proofreading your own writing.
Bonus myth: On a 20A circuit that terminates in a single location, you can't use a 15A duplex receptacle.
I can't cite the exact code section, but this is a misinterpretation of the rule that for a 20A circuit supplying a single receptacle, the receptacle must be 20A. However, 15A receptacles are allowed on 20A circuits where there is more than one receptacle, and a duplex receptacle counts as two receptacles on that circuit, so a lone 15A duplex receptacle CAN be used on a 20A circuit.
Not saying it's a good idea; just saying it's a common myth.
That is true. I think the terminology in the article is directed toward two or more 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit but it can be misleading as written.
9:10 Interesting that the chart shows you can't put a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit (makes sense). But you can put a 50A receptacle on a 40A circuit ???
Trick question... depends on the wire size. You don't want to get caught in the middle with a continuous draw appliance and allow a larger draw than the rest of the circuit can handle. If your wire was rated for 50 amps then why have a 40 amp breaker? The breakers cost about the same.
Wire size is determined by the overcurrent device not the receptacle that's installed. 220.18. Remember that the table I show applies to branch circuits that supply more than one receptacle.
@@BackyardMaine back to my "trick question".... nobody makes a 40 amp receptacle so you are stuck with something else. A 50 amp plug is probably not a good choice on a 40 amp circuit, although some might argue it's close enough because of the 80% rule.
@@rupe53 Sorry. I was answering comment quickly and I missed your intent. You are correct there is no NEMA 40A receptacles. I was focusing on the circuit rating and wire size.
Damn, I got dinged by an electrician that told me that I couldn't use phase tape to turn "neutrals" into "hots" when I needed to get my box inspected for new solar.
For wires smaller than 6awg you aren't supposed to phase tape any conductors
Not true check your code.
(C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More
The use of insulation that is white or gray or that has three continuous white or gray stripes for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or more shall be permitted only as in (1) and (2).
If part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded conductor by marking tape, painting, or other effective means at its termination and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. Identification shall encircle the insulation and shall be a color other than white, gray, or green. If used for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet.
A flexible cord having one conductor identified by a white or gray outer finish or three continuous white or gray stripes, or by any other means permitted by 400.22, that is used for connecting an appliance or equipment permitted by 400.10. This shall apply to flexible cords connected to outlets whether or not the outlet is supplied by a circuit that has a grounded conductor.
As long as it's in a cable or cord you can re-identify a white to be used as a hot. The commenter below is incorrect. Many electricians get this wrong because they confuse the requirements in 200.6. Maybe I need to make a dedicated video discussing this subject.
When re-identifying a wire, it must be permanently marked on some way: how is applying some electrical tape "permanent"? I cant really think of any other plausible method that ISN'T permanent, aside from tape. I scribble them black with a Sharpie. 🤷♂️
The tape will come off with a little bit of effort but the code accepts this as a permanent method. It won't fall off or become unreadable over time.
@@BackyardMaine ok then. Thank you.
NOalox us usually applied now after the engineer requires it. They didn't get the memo.
Surely you *NEVER* connect neutral to earth/ground? The Distribution Network Operator routinely does, yes, but the consumer *never* does except for brief tests.
The neutral (grounded conductor) is required to be bonded to the grounding electrode conductor at the first switch or panel. This bond is crucial to the safety and reliability of the system and can only be done in one location
@@BackyardMaine This is actually illegal in the UK, and can only be done by the DNO (either in the cutout, or not at all because it is TT or TN-S).
I live in a spider web of extension cords some of them are actually TENS for my power tools and some 12s😢
“The receptacle is higher than the circuit, so it’s protected, right?” Using the breaker as the primary limiter instead of the safety backup it’s supposed to be is like saying “I can drive as fast as I want, because the crumple zones/seat belts/air bags will protect me if I get in a crash.” 🤣
I think you completely missed the point I was making.
@@BackyardMaine Oh, no, I was totally agreeing with you, just not the person who would have made that comment about the breaker protecting the circuit so the outlet didn’t matter!
It’s like football helmets becoming safer, so players use their heads as battering rams more, while the designers are saying “No, we did that in case you *accidentally* hit your head!” Safety measures are there in case something goes wrong; they shouldn’t be relied on for normal use.
The reason why we need to use antioxidants to aluminum wires is when they are subjected to weather or moisture.
No, exposure to oxygen is why it's used. Prevents aluminum oxide from forming.
I never see anyone in these electrical videos tighten their screws with a torque wrench. How come?
It is required but in 40 years as an electrician and an electrical engineer I have never seen it done even once. The requirement is actually a fairly new update. I don't think it's really necessary for an experienced electrician. I know I can tighten it to or slightly over spec without a torque driver. The spec is actually quite wide. With large cable I would always torque but not on electrical receptacles and light switches.
John, You said that you would address the requirements for ground rods with generators?
Sorry Jerry I have had some commitments to take care of. I have one more video and then I'll make the one on grounding.
The bottom line is this. A neutral can only be bonded to ground in one location usually at the first service disconnect. So when connecting a generator for back up, the generator needs to have a floating neutral meaning it's not bonded to ground. This way the bond is still in one location as required by code. If not you can have all sorts of issues. It is possible to remove the bond if your generator is bonded. For a connection like I showed in a previous video the generator needs to be floating. In this case a ground rod is not required or recommended. Some generators, often whole home backup systems will have a bonded neutral. In this case the transfer switch needs to also switch the neutral conductor along with the hots to maintain a single bond. Then the generator would be considered a separately derived system. These system are required to be connected to a grounding electrode if not already connect to an existing electrode. Since we're not switching the ground wire we would still be connected to the building electrode, so it would still not be required. It is a common practice to install a ground rod with these system but we need to be far enough away from the existing electrode as per 250 in the code.
@@BackyardMaine Wow, Thanks John.
That's a nice desk. I wish I had that kind of money. Food would be nice right now. While some things aren't exactly code required, there is still best practices, like no splices in circuit box. Best to avoid it IF possible. Antioxidant paste is also a good practice. Won't hurt anything to go the extra effort. It is also better practice to use bushings and fittings on MC as long as it doesn't violate a code. I am the kind of attitude where it is better to have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it. And if it exceeds code and doesn't violate it, why not ?
Also, when people build a house or have a rewire, they should always go with the highest amperes possible. For example, eliminate all 14 gauge wire, the smallest should be 12, and thicker for higher circuits. And kitchen circuits should always have a separate circuit from the top to the bottom portion of the outlet. Prevents overloading when the toaster oven, fryer, coffee maker, simmer cooker, etc are all on at the same time. Also light circuits should be independent so that IF there is a problem, you're not in the dark wondering what happened. Great video. Maybe one day I will be able to afford nice things. Maybe one day, I'll be able to afford food again.
After watching this video it's official, I'm a certified DIY electrician.
there are several reasons for not putting a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. Probably the most important reason is that a 20-amp appliance in that receptacle would cause frequent tripping. That will cause the breaker to wear faster. But the home user might try to prevent the tripping by placing a 20-amp breaker to replace the 15. This would result in a dangerous situation where a 20 amp breaker was protecting 15-amp wire.
I wonder if there even are any consumer grade appliances with 20 amp plugs? I've never seen any. I have a large toaster oven that draws 1800 watts which is close to the 80% limit of 20 amps but it has a standard cord. Of course it doesn't really get any continuous use for more than about a half hour. I have it on it's own 20 amp circuit and a single 20 amp receptacle.
I love it when they point to the upper left corner and claim that there's something there. But it's not so I guess I'm not watching the next one.
I believe I said I’ll link it at the end of the video
Is a duplex receptacle considered a single receptacle. Also is there a code that says no device shall be used in a circuit that is of a lower amperage rating than the overcurrent device supplying power to that circuit.
Good questions. First a duplex receptacle is two receptacle on a single device yoke as per article 100. A single receptacle has just one receptacle per device yoke. Also 15A receptacles are rated for 20A passthrough current per their uL listing. So they can safely carry 20A and are permitted to be installed on a 20A circuit as long as it's not a single receptacle. 15A receptacles are designed so a 20A plug cannot be connected. A 20A plug will have one horizontal blade and will not physically connect to a 15A device. I hope this helps.
Great !!!
We had an old ( since retired ) inspector that only allowed either colored shrink wrap tuning or black ( or other color other then white, green or grey ) paint to reidentify a white conducyor.
It can be tough to fight city hall but the AHJ cannot make up requirements. The will win every argument about interpretation but in this case its clear that other methods are compliant. I get it though. If you piss off an inspector you can make your life miserable.
On 200.7C there is a caveat, Note the words CABLE ASSEMBLY. That means it's only OK to re-identify a white wire in Romex, MC, BX, or other manufactured cable assembly. What you can't do is to re-identify a single white, gray, or green, THHN inside a conduit. I assume the reason is that it is just as easy to pull the the right color wire in this case.
Yes I showed that in the video.
@@BackyardMaine Sorry, I missed it.
Close. You are allowed to re-identify a white wire that's not part of a cable (making it a hot or ground, for example) as long as the color is changed along its entire length.
I get apprentices and journeymen that argue these things with me all the time, they claim that because the code does not require these practices, they should not have to do them.
I demand certain standards of work, and my argument is why should our goal be the laziest, shittiest install we can get away with?
Kinda funny that these same guys are the ones who are willing to ignore actual code requirements at times and try to get away with it, then bitch and whine when they fail inspections.
Aluminum anti-ox is not required sure, but over time it still prevents corrosion. Anti-shorts are not required, but we still use them to avoid wire abrasion.
Do you also install conduit bushings on all EMT connectors and oversize your wires by a couple sizes? That would be a little better right.
Still come for the information and hat. USAF all the way.
Thank you so much.. 🇺🇸
Box Fill is the Article within the NEC to determine how many wires of AWG
I'm very familiar with box fill calculations. I actually have that on my video list.
Side note on wasting money on 20 amp receptacles for residential settings. I installed over 25 receptacles in my house and only have one 20 amp receptacle ( because that was they only color I needed in stock for a GFCI ) In the 50 years living in the house and having contractors using large table saws, hammer drills , worm drive 8.5" circular saws. Floor sander, etc never had a 20 amp 120 volt male plug that had to be plugged in. I took a few different companies 15 & 20 amp duplex spec & cheaper grades receptacles apart and they all were made with the same guage & material. So don't waste money on 20 amp dup!ex receptacles.
if you went to an industrial rated outlet, it would be different inside... and three times the price.
Great video
Thank you...
It always depends on the AHJ and what the inspector wants to see. I built a service where one inspector passed it and the next one did not on the other. One situation was I was knocked down for not using colored wire on wire less than #6. I taped up the conductors and I had to come back and use green and white wire. Another time the inspector required me to go lugs hot on a 6-12 panel. I had the Z-clip and fed the main service conductors to a HOM2100 breaker but was told that the service wires had to be landed on the lugs. What keeps someone from putting 3 100 amp breakers in the panel and overloading it. In my career, came across a trashy slum trailer court lord that had a service burn to the ground because he had a 6-12 100 amp panel stuffed with 3 100 amp breakers feeding separate trailers.
Some get confused on this. 200.6 tells us that the neutral grounded conductor size 6AWG and smaller needs to be a colored white or gray with a few other manufactured options. And that for 4AWG and larger they can be colored or marked by an approved means at every termination. But 200.7 allows a white or gray wire that's part of a cable assemble (like NM cable shown in the video) to be re-identified as a hot ungrounded conductor at its termination and at each location where the conductor is visible and accessible. I have had to read this to inspectors in the past. There job is code enforcement not code writing.
You cannot reidentify white wires in a switch box though. Code tells you you need a neutral every switch now.
No-lox is just good practice. Use it outside, in bad environments, or any place with excessive moisture. You will figure this out when a leg goes on a main breaker.
A neutral has been required in switch boxes since 2011 with 5 exceptions. In 2023 they removed exception 2 so there there are four exceptions where a neutral is not required. But since 2011 and not including any of the exceptions 404.2 tells us that we only need a neutral in of the switch boxes where multiple switches control the same lights. So with 3-way and 4-way switches only one box requires a neutral by code and a re-identified white wire used as a traveler is code compliant. I would agree that No-lox or another brand of antioxidant may be a good idea in a corrosive environment.
I thought that you couldn't phase tape wires if smaller than #6
You can reidentify any wire in a cable assembly to anything you'd like. It's not best practice to do with white, gray, or green but you can. You can't reidentify a bare wire though. Flexible cords also require ground to be green and insulated.
You can phase tape any hot/ungrounded single conductor wire any color that's not reserved (green, white, gray, orange for high leg. Plus three grey/white stripes along a conductor; length wise, not circular. Green with 3 yellow stripes is reserved for grounding conductors.) You do need to keep the colors consistent across your phases.
If you have multiple systems the colors need to stay constant. Like Black, Red, Blue, White for 120 and Brown, Orange/Violet, Yellow, Gray for 480. But if there's only one system then there's no "standard" in NEC code, other then keeping the phases the same labeling/color/tag.
You can only reidentify a color for a single conductor that's not protected into a protected color if it's 4 gauge or larger. (Code says #6 or smaller, which is the same thing) So white stays white, green stays green, gray stays gray, black/orange/red/maroon/teal can be anything you want it to be. (This would be 200.6, which talks about grounded conductors 250.119 talks about equipment grounding conductor/EGC or your ground conductors. They both start with how the cable color shall be identified, and then allows remarking of other conductors. 210.5(c)(1) talks about branch circuits and it's required colors.)
There's also some other stuff that can be exceptions or requirements, like DC circuits which have a reserved red and black (along with white, gray, and green.).
It boils down to if you are pulling individual wires in raceways, you should be able to purchase the colors you need in the smaller sizes. But with cable assemblies, what you get is what you get. For larger sizes colors might not be available.
The NEC is huge, and has a lot of very dense and very specific info.
What the code says in 200.6 is conductors 6 and smaller need to be colored to what they are. White or gray for neutral, green, green with yellow stripes or bare for ground. Anything but those colors for hots. 4 and larger can be field marked. 200.7 allows us to re-identify the white wire to use as a hot when part of a cable or flexible cord