@@cr1m203 because most of the world doesn't have the money to do it mostly and the know how and skills typically come from trade school which again takes time money and commitment and most of all most home owners don't know the difference between quality and hazards due to the previously mentioned.
@@thecanadiantradesman7916 sucks to be those home owners then. As a home owner myself I didn’t need a license to have common sense in hazards. Every field has dangerous hazards. There is no such thing as a fit all solution unless a person has common sense for danger. I do my own electrical work, my own plumbing work and so on. I have went behind “licensed work” and to be honest a license doesn’t mean someone has common sense. Case in point, you need a drivers license to drive an automobile yet people have shown their ability not to be able to drive said vehicle.
I am an IT field engineer for over 22 years. In the early 2000's i got tired of waiting for electricians to run my conduit and wires for Rack related outlets and cables so I shadowed under a journeyman old timer (think he had over 30 years in the field) and he taught me more than I will ever remember. I can easily rewire regular houses, change meter sockets, even disconnect the wires from the poles (our utility carrier doesn't care because it is less for them to do). I say all that because, while I'm decent, I'm certainly no electrical pro, but neither do people doing their own electric on youtube warrant any extra "kudos" from me. HOWEVER, you impressed me with your A) DETAIL, B) KNOWLEDGE, C) INTEGRITY, and D) WORKMANSHIP. If I were to ever give up IT and go full blown electrician I would be honored to be able to work for your company! A+
I was looking for someone to comment that, or take a small piece of cardboard to place under the hole you're drilling to keep shavings from falling into the panel.
After installing my first Leviton a couple years ago, this is now my first choice of panel. Ironically, these were readily available during the pandemic when Square D panels were regularly sold out in my area.
The way you not only "butter" your customers up, but properly inform them on situations outside of your control is a skill. Your people skills are on point!
Great video - with more and more solar coming to residencies can you focus on the solar related code aspects more. I believe this would greatly help us all 😅
23:41 needing more ground onto it... Leviton MAKES additional ground bars designed to mount into the panel in several places (including your top there...) and the ground bar which is at your bottom, can be moved to your top too!
I'm wondering if you heard me yelling at you about the "wrong" terminal neutral wire!😂. Then you went back and corrected it, so you must have heard me! Great videos. I've been doing electrical work for longer than I'd like to say, (retired now) and I seem to learn something from your videos everytime!
Just a note on the leviton surge protector : you can use it as a normal branch circuit as well. I've seen a lot of installers not utilizing them as branches just leaving them unwired
Nice video. I work with lineman and one of them disconnected my power and helped me do my electrical panel. Passed inspection but spent an extra day in the dark as the power company had no record of the disconnect
The top and bottom trim panels are a nice way to deal with the problem of fishing wire when replacing a panel. Interesting this was a Sylvania main panel. We built our house and have the same 200 Amp panel.
Did I miss something? Did you label the incoming wires before disassembling the old panel, so you would be able to best organize your circuits when you install the new panel? Example: keeping like areas together?
@@AidanSkoyles Has updated features and they are cheaper than most "good" panels. Plus they do look better. Availability is why I havent installed any yet.
the leviton panel is fun to have as there is a ton of choices in their products like the breakers. they have a smart breaker (wifi/afci/gfci and combined) i use them for power monitoring and see the trip status :)
The extra ground bar that came with the panel could have been placed in the upper area on this panel. That is where I installed it on my new Leviton panel.
If you get a chance to do another job with solar power being the source. Could you go into more detail about the use of the bonding screw? I would just really like to wrap my mind around the why in on main panels, but not on sub panels. Great video, wow that panel look nice, makes me want to go out and get one.
Nice looking panel and great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. So you installed two access panels, one above the new panel and one below, correct? That’s a nice additional feature.
What I was looking for Joel as I will be installing this exact same panelx2. The gutter looks narrow for landing conductors nicely ala lumenati electric style❤. Well I would install except someone has bought them all I wonder who🤣 I rate these better than SPAN mainly because the overprotection GFCI/AFCI breakers are so much better engineered. With the WiFi version you can see and monitor all circuits. You talked about harmonic addition just to make clear if phase conductors of a multi wire are not terminated to different phases in the panel then the current become additive. Imagine two sine current curves in phase basically peaks and troughs line up. The current on the neutral conductor will be above those same phase peaks and below those phase troughs hence potential overheating/fire as the summative amps may exceed ampere rating on the neutral. See NFPA70 200.4(A)-(B). Labeling and grouping then becomes important as well.
over the years, I have seen "many" exactly that way and the neutral wires very cooked. mostly at the far end splice, where two devices/lines combine and at the panel end at the lug end. scary business really! then again, so was the bad neutral splice at service drop to service entrance, I just diagnosed. there was 20 to 50amp's returning to the pole via cable tv coax/grounding block and 14awg wire connected to a ground strap placed on the meter! complete with voltages all over the place from 90 to 140v, good thing they had the local electric utility out once and the local electricians(large company) out FIVE times... even the cable guy was there and replaced the melted coax and ground block once. yet nobody found the problem? 🙄😬
I'm satisfied with my utility as a public service. Getting a pole disconnect and reconnect from the utility can be unreliable schedule wise without sometimes weeks in advance notice. 40 years safe disconnect and reconnect at point of attachment and I am not getting complacent. My utility jurisdiction overhead lateral ends there if accessible.
Man great job my dad and uncle taught me to change over these eletrical panels hot and the customer would lose power for 15 to 20 minutes in the refrigerators etc I'm glad they retired.
On a Hot day, if its going to be longer then 12hr of no power, add bottles of water to your fridge/freezer. The more mass in your fridge/freezer, actually helps keep them colder much longer.
If we are going to venture into "boutique" panels, we should just go all in and accept the European DIN rail breaker/panel standard... Leviton looks good, but they are 1 of 1. When they discontinue that line years from now, nobody makes anything remotely close to this.
@@rupe53 Sure, but at what price? Pushmatic and Federal Pacific - compatible breakers made by Connecticut Electric are way up there in price, and I would recommend a panel replacement for those panels anyway.. I get it, you can always find a replacement part, but if the panel design is as far from the "mainstream" as Pushmatic or FP, any L&L replacement will cost ya...
@@Gruntled2001 ... hey, I'm with ya there but when the option is a new panel at $2500+ versus a breaker, what do you think the customer wants to do? There's always that old lady who is 75 and moving to Florida next year. Let the new owner sort it out. Chances are that will also be a service upgrade so more likely $4500.
it seems they've read my crazy online ramblings long ago and out came plug on neutral. meanwhile I absolutely hate (TR) tamper resistant devices, it takes to much plug insertion depth before making contact and a slight bump put's them on the edge of disconnection, which means poor contact and overheating. nothing like replacing melted receptacles, and plugs.
I just swapped in a Leviton 42 space main lug in my home. The clear panel door looks awesome! Took me like 8 hours having never done a panel swap before. The breakers are often significantly discounted on Amazon. I just keep a couple extras on hand incase one craps out. Installed a 16 channel Emporia in the panel with plenty of room to spare. No guards for the main lugs. =(
In my area it's common to hook up a temporary panel right off the meter usually #4 aluminum with a little 50 amp temporary panel. It's done right when the power company shows up to pull the meter and we already have it ready to go for them. We don't bother with hard wired appliance (unless it's winter and there's a furnace) but it gives them a few extension cords to live off of in the meantime. One time a fella just plugged his RV into it and hung out in the air conditioning watching TV the whole time 😂🤙
woah, NO at "12 hours" for standard fridge/freezer being without power, it's more like an hour to two for un-opened fridge and two to four freezer side. now a deep freezer full of well frozen items and ice layer buildup could go eight to twelve plus hours, providing it's in a cool shaded area, with no wind, say basement or some garages. it's wise to suggest they rent or supply them a generator, fuel or temporary service and heavy gauge extension cords to power a few things. yes it's an added pain in the hind-quarters, but makes for happier customers, whom cannot say "the power was off for X hours and my food spoiled, making me sick", it happens.
Performed several searches and Leviton smart panel is made in USA ( CA )and circuit breakers made in cheating lying lack of quality control communist china. I would NEVER install a panel, circuit breakers or any POS garbage made in cheating china. Would never install a smart panel for two reasons: Good luck attempting to secure almost any equipment that contains chips that will be obsolete in less then ten years. Second somebody could hack into the $200 fancy WIFI Leviton device and be able to turn off one or more circuit breakers. Had a 12 year old lightning /diming panel that cost over ten grand and vendor was no longer supplying support due to obsolete electronic parts. Like the white interior makes it a lot easier to see wires. Back in the 1970 & 80's Allen Bradley would paint the inside of all their motor starter enclosures with a bright white paint that everybody liked. Some bean counter stopped this and painted the inside a drab gray.
Does anyone know if it's legal to only use a plastic access panel in garage walls? Doubt you would never be allowed it on a wall that has say a kitchen, dining room etc on other side due to required maybe 1/2 to 1 hour fire stop. At the large hospital that I retired from you were only allowed metal panels. Even had heavy double wall fired rated hinged down doors where required. Nice ideal that a tool is not required to replace a breaker.
What was the estimated cost of the load center replacement? So the entire panel was 2500 for the Leviton? does that include the permits and other fees?
Thanks for posting this. I am installing this exact panel and you gave me great ideas. The access panel is gold! The insulated hex tool is gold too. Thx!
We had a customer many years ago that was complaining about their heater not being able to heat their home when it was rated to heat a home twice as big. They did not complain at all about the real problem. Ever time the wind blown it would blow right through the walls.
Hey, tip for ya, when talking to customers try to not have your hands fully in the pockets. I know it's more comfortable and probably keeps your hands from moving around a lot, but leave a thumb out.
So I have one of these Leviton smart breaker panels, love it and I purchased a smart 20 amp pole item and it does not track the power stats, someone said something about the neutrals are not there, my house doesn’t have the best wiring so I’m not sure is there a way to fix this so I can utilize the actual smart panels? Would that be expensive for a professional to come in? I’m very bummed about the wiring of my house not supporting this, any tips would be welcome
Hi, I noticed that you didn’t mention what you used for the nipple/bushing for ser wire. I have an crawl space and the 4442 ser wire has a pvc nipple and I want to know if that’s acceptable. Thanks
Wow that's crazy about the part where you're talking about only having 30 Volts! I just replaced my exhaust fan in my bathroom and assumed I should have had 120 there but didn't. Only had 30 Volts so it sounds like someone wired it wrong! I have a horrible pushmatic panel and it's an older house so I'm not opening up my panel. I just reran a line to where I knew I had 120. Are you in Indiana? I live in Lapel and desperately need an electrician to swap out my panel. I need additional circuits and this pushmatic bs is for the birds.
Question. I understand about gradually reenergizing circuits, but what is the difference from an external power failure and the electric company reenergizing from their end? That is beyond your control.
Nice video. thanks for the information. I had seen them online, just not up close. Also, I was very surprised you didn't note the old panel had so many different breaker brands mixed and matched in it. That is a code violation. Thought you might have caught it when you did the solar? Siemens, GE, Square D, and Eaton all in the same panel. Glad you changed it. And so glad you brought up the ground bars at top and bottom of the panels. I completely agree with that.
Since Sylvania no longer produces panels and breakers there are others that have been approved for replacements. A Google search can show which ones replaced them.
great tips, as usual. Any recommendations on a peculiar situation (mine :( ) I have a full 100amp outdoor stack/meter with a conduit under my garage slab. I wanted to update the service and install a car charger - the electrician put in a 200amp service upgrade with a new panel in the garage. he fed the basement panel with the existing 100amp cable beneath the slab. I'd like to off load/expand use of the garage panel. Any suggestions? tnx
Man, I have some electrical knowledge already (not nearly as much as you) but you inspire me to do better with every facet. Perfect mixture of professionalism, delivery, concise and to the point. I love your 1 day out in the field.
I upgraded my home's electric alone a few years back to 200 amps new panel, meter base, 4/0 wire in a day. But what a hard day! I managed to get barely enough done to get the inspector to give it a pass and the power company to reconnect. It was not a final inspection as this was part of a kitchen upgrade. And connect just enough to take a shower.. And that only worked because I had every, and I mean every thing where it needed to be the day before. Tools, lights, ladders, all the materials, all the circuits labeled. And the linemen were willing to stick around a few minutes to allow me the last connections. Watching this reminds me that a lot of this is just hard work. It really is a hard job, especially on a hot day.
I have been to jobs where the 2-screw NM clamps were overtightened. The first time it took a while to find the problem. The second time I nailed it in minutes. I wasn't the electrician on the job. I was the generator tech trying to solve a problem on a new set. ALWAYS on a Friday afternoon, right?
oversize wire for the clamp, stacked wires or off center and pinched hard? I did that one time as a sparky in the mid 1990's, I got reamed and raked over the coals and forced to spend two days fishing it by myself, the drywall was hung and being finished by time the panel and circuits were all tested. yes I was lazy then and whizzing them all down with a cordless drill, winged wire nuts and drill drivers for them were fairly new then also, I'm sure there was some over-tightened wire nuts in the mix. ahh, 70 hour weeks chock full of overtime and partying youth and right at the end of the housing boom and decline. oddly enough, I have been back to and worked on some of the same homes as a general/sub contractor and troubleshooting simple garage/outdoor receptacles having no power, which was just a tripped GFCI in a half bath, lesser used one or kitchen! back then GFCI's were still very costly, so it was common to feed the outdoor receptacles off the bathrooms/kitchen counters. the people were like "wow, that's been off for many years now", and you found it right away! then I told them it was a common practice around the whole area at the time.
Hi Joel, Great project. You are also a good actor. That means UA-cam expert. my company is also a Leviton Partner/Dealer. I would still like to talk with you.
Anybody happen to know whether you can terminate *more than one wire* into the wire points for each breaker (2 hots or 2 neutrals to one breaker connection)? It looks like this panel uses "holes" (like the holes in a ground bar or neutral bus bar where you terminate those wires) at the connection points for each breaker, as opposed to "clamping plates" (like on typical direct-wired circuit breakers). I currently have a QO panel with *several* circuits that have 2 branch circuits connected to single breakers. Thanks.
@15:45 Just remember the hardest job, is being a mother. Don't forget to tell her she's brave and special while you play around in some hot, random, snug attic, trying to remember the Netflix password so she can finish her show about inequality.
most utility companies require you to have them pull the meter and connect disconnect/connect the service drop entrance. some do allow electricians to do so, with prior approval!
@@throttlebottle5906 Weird, my electricians just pulled it - and added the new wiring to the transformer hot too even - upgraded from 100A to 200A service. I have 2 solar arrays as well (8kW) and a 14-50 in my garage. Just dumb Square D homeline everything though.
That's my biggest issue with smart / special panels. What happens, 20, 30 years from now? Rather go with less features and time proven kit. Still a nice looking panel.
Jesus Christ. Can house wiring not utilize subpanels more to eliminate running every circuit to a single main panel? All that wiring converging at one panel is a mess. At a minimum, I would have a subpanel for each floor on those floors.
There is something about you that just make someone sit watch and learn..I should be watching the afc championship game with Bengals and Chiefs right now
your stripping your wires a little long like on that main neutral AND again.... only turn breakers on or off with your left hand i hope ya never have to but some day you may thank me
And the homeowner should not be swapping out breakers inside of their panels. No different than a homeowner trying to fill up Freon in an air conditioner
There should be more contractors that take as much pride in their work as you do. Honesty and integrity is non existent these days
So why don’t more home owners do it themselves?
@@cr1m203 because most of the world doesn't have the money to do it mostly and the know how and skills typically come from trade school which again takes time money and commitment and most of all most home owners don't know the difference between quality and hazards due to the previously mentioned.
@@thecanadiantradesman7916 sucks to be those home owners then. As a home owner myself I didn’t need a license to have common sense in hazards. Every field has dangerous hazards. There is no such thing as a fit all solution unless a person has common sense for danger. I do my own electrical work, my own plumbing work and so on. I have went behind “licensed work” and to be honest a license doesn’t mean someone has common sense. Case in point, you need a drivers license to drive an automobile yet people have shown their ability not to be able to drive said vehicle.
You realize that if it's "non-existent" that means no one has it, including the people in this video.
@@cr1m203 a year later and this is still a stupid question lol
I am an IT field engineer for over 22 years. In the early 2000's i got tired of waiting for electricians to run my conduit and wires for Rack related outlets and cables so I shadowed under a journeyman old timer (think he had over 30 years in the field) and he taught me more than I will ever remember. I can easily rewire regular houses, change meter sockets, even disconnect the wires from the poles (our utility carrier doesn't care because it is less for them to do). I say all that because, while I'm decent, I'm certainly no electrical pro, but neither do people doing their own electric on youtube warrant any extra "kudos" from me. HOWEVER, you impressed me with your A) DETAIL, B) KNOWLEDGE, C) INTEGRITY, and D) WORKMANSHIP. If I were to ever give up IT and go full blown electrician I would be honored to be able to work for your company! A+
If I may make a suggestion - carry a small magnet and put it below the area where you are drilling to catch the pieces as they fall. I like the panel.
I was looking for someone to comment that, or take a small piece of cardboard to place under the hole you're drilling to keep shavings from falling into the panel.
Everyone NEEDS an electrician who is concerned about safety and quality. Love your level of detail... LOVE your positive attitude!
After installing my first Leviton a couple years ago, this is now my first choice of panel. Ironically, these were readily available during the pandemic when Square D panels were regularly sold out in my area.
I seen more people buy span
The way you not only "butter" your customers up, but properly inform them on situations outside of your control is a skill. Your people skills are on point!
Got yourself a subscriber based on just your integrity for doing what you did.
- Electrical Engineer.
neat and workman like manner is golden rule
Great video - with more and more solar coming to residencies can you focus on the solar related code aspects more. I believe this would greatly help us all 😅
23:41 needing more ground onto it... Leviton MAKES additional ground bars designed to mount into the panel in several places (including your top there...) and the ground bar which is at your bottom, can be moved to your top too!
I'm wondering if you heard me yelling at you about the "wrong" terminal neutral wire!😂. Then you went back and corrected it, so you must have heard me! Great videos. I've been doing electrical work for longer than I'd like to say, (retired now) and I seem to learn something from your videos everytime!
@5:39: A great point about the benefits of plug-on neutrals in boxes increasingly crowded by A/GFCI breakers.
Just a note on the leviton surge protector : you can use it as a normal branch circuit as well. I've seen a lot of installers not utilizing them as branches just leaving them unwired
Nice video. I work with lineman and one of them disconnected my power and helped me do my electrical panel. Passed inspection but spent an extra day in the dark as the power company had no record of the disconnect
The top and bottom trim panels are a nice way to deal with the problem of fishing wire when replacing a panel. Interesting this was a Sylvania main panel. We built our house and have the same 200 Amp panel.
Whoooooa, watch your head at 15:46, there's roofing nails to bash your head into! In that tight space it's like you're inside an iron maiden. lol
Did I miss something? Did you label the incoming wires before disassembling the old panel, so you would be able to best organize your circuits when you install the new panel? Example: keeping like areas together?
Learned about Levintons panel recently. Have wanted to see one in action since then
why is it better than a traditional panel? Other than being white and looking cool? (serious question)
@@AidanSkoyles Has updated features and they are cheaper than most "good" panels. Plus they do look better. Availability is why I havent installed any yet.
I just did a siemens panel and I thought I was gonna have to drill the knockouts out I've never encountered something that was so solid.
Thank you!!!! Really enjoying the learning from your videos!!!!
always outstanding work and I have done many commercial and residential service installs and upgrades... having worked DTE Energy here in Michigan
Thank you for sharing this informative video. Panel replacement is high on my project list and I sure do like these affordable Leviton options.
Always get your line side terminations done first ok load side after
Joel, as always, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us 🤝
So, I didn't see any labels on any of the cables after ripping out the old panel. So, how do you know which cables go to which breaker?
I would say personally CLEANUP is more like 80% more important to a repeat customer for me maybe even 90%
try pounding out the knockouts from the top/outside instead of inside. I have never seen someone do it from the inside like that
I imagine it depends which way they're pressed.
the leviton panel is fun to have as there is a ton of choices in their products like the breakers. they have a smart breaker (wifi/afci/gfci and combined) i use them for power monitoring and see the trip status :)
Buy extra breakers. Always. Great video!
If you have a disconnect at the meter outside (which is now required), then you don't bond ground and neutral at that pretty panel.
The extra ground bar that came with the panel could have been placed in the upper area on this panel. That is where I installed it on my new Leviton panel.
i have never seen anything like that panel. wow
Love the terminal-less breakers with built in surge, the welded ko’s not so much 😂.
You need a bigger hammer
Very impressed with you , awesome job , and the vacuum ❤
If you get a chance to do another job with solar power being the source. Could you go into more detail about the use of the bonding screw?
I would just really like to wrap my mind around the why in on main panels, but not on sub panels.
Great video, wow that panel look nice, makes me want to go out and get one.
Nice looking panel and great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
So you installed two access panels, one above the new panel and one below, correct? That’s a nice additional feature.
What I was looking for Joel as I will be installing this exact same panelx2. The gutter looks narrow for landing conductors nicely ala lumenati electric style❤. Well I would install except someone has bought them all I wonder who🤣 I rate these better than SPAN mainly because the overprotection GFCI/AFCI breakers are so much better engineered. With the WiFi version you can see and monitor all circuits.
You talked about harmonic addition just to make clear if phase conductors of a multi wire are not terminated to different phases in the panel then the current become additive. Imagine two sine current curves in phase basically peaks and troughs line up. The current on the neutral conductor will be above those same phase peaks and below those phase troughs hence potential overheating/fire as the summative amps may exceed ampere rating on the neutral. See NFPA70 200.4(A)-(B). Labeling and grouping then becomes important as well.
over the years, I have seen "many" exactly that way and the neutral wires very cooked. mostly at the far end splice, where two devices/lines combine and at the panel end at the lug end.
scary business really!
then again, so was the bad neutral splice at service drop to service entrance, I just diagnosed. there was 20 to 50amp's returning to the pole via cable tv coax/grounding block and 14awg wire connected to a ground strap placed on the meter! complete with voltages all over the place from 90 to 140v, good thing they had the local electric utility out once and the local electricians(large company) out FIVE times... even the cable guy was there and replaced the melted coax and ground block once. yet nobody found the problem? 🙄😬
I'm satisfied with my utility as a public service. Getting a pole disconnect and reconnect from the utility can be unreliable schedule wise without sometimes weeks in advance notice. 40 years safe disconnect and reconnect at point of attachment and I am not getting complacent. My utility jurisdiction overhead lateral ends there if accessible.
Man great job my dad and uncle taught me to change over these eletrical panels hot and the customer would lose power for 15 to 20 minutes in the refrigerators etc I'm glad they retired.
On a Hot day, if its going to be longer then 12hr of no power, add bottles of water to your fridge/freezer. The more mass in your fridge/freezer, actually helps keep them colder much longer.
If the owner cuts some off the top of the tree should improve the solar arrays output
If we are going to venture into "boutique" panels, we should just go all in and accept the European DIN rail breaker/panel standard... Leviton looks good, but they are 1 of 1. When they discontinue that line years from now, nobody makes anything remotely close to this.
they said that about Pushmatic and others, but you can still get parts from other vendors that are approved.
@@rupe53 Sure, but at what price? Pushmatic and Federal Pacific - compatible breakers made by Connecticut Electric are way up there in price, and I would recommend a panel replacement for those panels anyway.. I get it, you can always find a replacement part, but if the panel design is as far from the "mainstream" as Pushmatic or FP, any L&L replacement will cost ya...
@@Gruntled2001 ... hey, I'm with ya there but when the option is a new panel at $2500+ versus a breaker, what do you think the customer wants to do? There's always that old lady who is 75 and moving to Florida next year. Let the new owner sort it out. Chances are that will also be a service upgrade so more likely $4500.
it seems they've read my crazy online ramblings long ago and out came plug on neutral. meanwhile I absolutely hate (TR) tamper resistant devices, it takes to much plug insertion depth before making contact and a slight bump put's them on the edge of disconnection, which means poor contact and overheating. nothing like replacing melted receptacles, and plugs.
I just swapped in a Leviton 42 space main lug in my home. The clear panel door looks awesome! Took me like 8 hours having never done a panel swap before. The breakers are often significantly discounted on Amazon. I just keep a couple extras on hand incase one craps out. Installed a 16 channel Emporia in the panel with plenty of room to spare. No guards for the main lugs. =(
I've noticed and been eyeing them, but never seen one installed anywhere or any durability records. the test of time holds true!
I most definitely have those black main guards that came with my leviton panel.. You can buy spares if youre missing them from levitons store.
do the breakers crap out ever? Old breakers never crapped out.
@@phillysupra Those covers are for main breakers... My panel is setup as a Main Lug.
@@AidanSkoyles Probably not. It is an electro-mechanical device though... doesn't hurt to have a few spares in the panel for failure/future use.
Didn't look like the new NEMA plug for the car charger was on a GFCI? :/
Except you have to buy the damn panel cover separate, so it cost a lot more than a homeline. the cover cost close to the entire homeline panel
yeah, i'm not seeing the benefit to this new panel
In my area it's common to hook up a temporary panel right off the meter usually #4 aluminum with a little 50 amp temporary panel. It's done right when the power company shows up to pull the meter and we already have it ready to go for them. We don't bother with hard wired appliance (unless it's winter and there's a furnace) but it gives them a few extension cords to live off of in the meantime. One time a fella just plugged his RV into it and hung out in the air conditioning watching TV the whole time 😂🤙
woah, NO at "12 hours" for standard fridge/freezer being without power, it's more like an hour to two for un-opened fridge and two to four freezer side. now a deep freezer full of well frozen items and ice layer buildup could go eight to twelve plus hours, providing it's in a cool shaded area, with no wind, say basement or some garages.
it's wise to suggest they rent or supply them a generator, fuel or temporary service and heavy gauge extension cords to power a few things. yes it's an added pain in the hind-quarters, but makes for happier customers, whom cannot say "the power was off for X hours and my food spoiled, making me sick", it happens.
Performed several searches and Leviton smart panel is made in USA ( CA )and circuit breakers made in cheating lying lack of quality control communist china. I would NEVER install a panel, circuit breakers or any POS garbage made in cheating china. Would never install a smart panel for two reasons: Good luck attempting to secure almost any equipment that contains chips that will be obsolete in less then ten years. Second somebody could hack into the $200 fancy WIFI Leviton device and be able to turn off one or more circuit breakers. Had a 12 year old lightning /diming panel that cost over ten grand and vendor was no longer supplying support due to obsolete electronic parts. Like the white interior makes it a lot easier to see wires. Back in the 1970 & 80's Allen Bradley would paint the inside of all their motor starter enclosures with a bright white paint that everybody liked. Some bean counter stopped this and painted the inside a drab gray.
Does anyone know if it's legal to only use a plastic access panel in garage walls? Doubt you would never be allowed it on a wall that has say a kitchen, dining room etc on other side due to required maybe 1/2 to 1 hour fire stop. At the large hospital that I retired from you were only allowed metal panels. Even had heavy double wall fired rated hinged down doors where required. Nice ideal that a tool is not required to replace a breaker.
It might pass electrical inspection, but not building.
What was the estimated cost of the load center replacement? So the entire panel was 2500 for the Leviton? does that include the permits and other fees?
Thank you for your well-explained electrical methods. You are definitely one of my favorites to follow! I give you a thumbs-up on all your videos.
You should checks out the new Schneider system.
Thanks for posting this. I am installing this exact panel and you gave me great ideas. The access panel is gold! The insulated hex tool is gold too. Thx!
We had a customer many years ago that was complaining about their heater not being able to heat their home when it was rated to heat a home twice as big.
They did not complain at all about the real problem. Ever time the wind blown it would blow right through the walls.
Thats a pretty slick panel! Nice work as always!
Can you use a generator interlock with this panel?
In Ontario, the height code is not applied to replacement
Pan head screw only my inspector do not Allow drywall screws.
Hey, tip for ya, when talking to customers try to not have your hands fully in the pockets. I know it's more comfortable and probably keeps your hands from moving around a lot, but leave a thumb out.
Can we get the Leviton in NOT hideous white?
So I have one of these Leviton smart breaker panels, love it and I purchased a smart 20 amp pole item and it does not track the power stats, someone said something about the neutrals are not there, my house doesn’t have the best wiring so I’m not sure is there a way to fix this so I can utilize the actual smart panels? Would that be expensive for a professional to come in? I’m very bummed about the wiring of my house not supporting this, any tips would be welcome
Better tell that builder to buy homeline and just paint the cover. Leviton is more money than homeline plus available would be harder to find
Boa Tarde Ficou Top
Hi, I noticed that you didn’t mention what you used for the nipple/bushing for ser wire. I have an crawl space and the 4442 ser wire has a pvc nipple and I want to know if that’s acceptable. Thanks
What are the cost of the breakers compared to square d panel breakers ?
does anybody know how low to the floor a breaker panel can be mounted? is there a minimum. I want to locate mine about 2 ft off the floor .
Binge watching this channel now...............Im off for a week so here goes. Nice work
Wow that's crazy about the part where you're talking about only having 30 Volts! I just replaced my exhaust fan in my bathroom and assumed I should have had 120 there but didn't. Only had 30 Volts so it sounds like someone wired it wrong! I have a horrible pushmatic panel and it's an older house so I'm not opening up my panel. I just reran a line to where I knew I had 120.
Are you in Indiana? I live in Lapel and desperately need an electrician to swap out my panel. I need additional circuits and this pushmatic bs is for the birds.
Question. I understand about gradually reenergizing circuits, but what is the difference from an external power failure and the electric company reenergizing from their end? That is beyond your control.
Nice video. thanks for the information. I had seen them online, just not up close. Also, I was very surprised you didn't note the old panel had so many different breaker brands mixed and matched in it. That is a code violation. Thought you might have caught it when you did the solar? Siemens, GE, Square D, and Eaton all in the same panel. Glad you changed it. And so glad you brought up the ground bars at top and bottom of the panels. I completely agree with that.
Since Sylvania no longer produces panels and breakers there are others that have been approved for replacements. A Google search can show which ones replaced them.
You should never use drywall screws to mount anything through metal ! They are to brittle.
That's a good point. Using something with greater shear strength would be good.
great tips, as usual. Any recommendations on a peculiar situation (mine :( ) I have a full 100amp outdoor stack/meter with a conduit under my garage slab. I wanted to update the service and install a car charger - the electrician put in a 200amp service upgrade with a new panel in the garage. he fed the basement panel with the existing 100amp cable beneath the slab. I'd like to off load/expand use of the garage panel. Any suggestions? tnx
As long as your main breaker is below 6’6 you can put the panel as high as you want. Personally I always try to install panels at 6’ to the top.
I believe all overcurrent devices, with only a few exceptions, are required to be below 6'7", but things do vary by AHJ.
So glad I came across your channel. Great work ethic! That Leviton panel looks fantastic, I want one now and those breakers have blown my mind.
Finally makes sense if you're forced to pay 60 dollars per breaker anyway
Man, I have some electrical knowledge already (not nearly as much as you) but you inspire me to do better with every facet. Perfect mixture of professionalism, delivery, concise and to the point.
I love your 1 day out in the field.
Carmel Indiana??
I upgraded my home's electric alone a few years back to 200 amps new panel, meter base, 4/0 wire in a day. But what a hard day!
I managed to get barely enough done to get the inspector to give it a pass and the power company to reconnect. It was not a final inspection as this was part of a kitchen upgrade. And connect just enough to take a shower.. And that only worked because I had every, and I mean every thing where it needed to be the day before. Tools, lights, ladders, all the materials, all the circuits labeled. And the linemen were willing to stick around a few minutes to allow me the last connections.
Watching this reminds me that a lot of this is just hard work. It really is a hard job, especially on a hot day.
That's why electricians have portable generators
I have been to jobs where the 2-screw NM clamps were overtightened. The first time it took a while to find the problem. The second time I nailed it in minutes. I wasn't the electrician on the job. I was the generator tech trying to solve a problem on a new set. ALWAYS on a Friday afternoon, right?
oversize wire for the clamp, stacked wires or off center and pinched hard?
I did that one time as a sparky in the mid 1990's, I got reamed and raked over the coals and forced to spend two days fishing it by myself, the drywall was hung and being finished by time the panel and circuits were all tested.
yes I was lazy then and whizzing them all down with a cordless drill, winged wire nuts and drill drivers for them were fairly new then also, I'm sure there was some over-tightened wire nuts in the mix. ahh, 70 hour weeks chock full of overtime and partying youth and right at the end of the housing boom and decline.
oddly enough, I have been back to and worked on some of the same homes as a general/sub contractor and troubleshooting simple garage/outdoor receptacles having no power, which was just a tripped GFCI in a half bath, lesser used one or kitchen! back then GFCI's were still very costly, so it was common to feed the outdoor receptacles off the bathrooms/kitchen counters. the people were like "wow, that's been off for many years now", and you found it right away! then I told them it was a common practice around the whole area at the time.
Hands down, the sexiest installation video I’ve ever watched. You are absolutely awesome, and I’m puttin mad respek on your name 💁🏼♀️😁
Sylvania is gone?!
I have 4x Sylvania light bulbs in my house. They're WiFi, so LEDVance licensed them, I think.
Hi Joel, Great project. You are also a good actor. That means UA-cam expert. my company is also a Leviton Partner/Dealer. I would still like to talk with you.
Anybody happen to know whether you can terminate *more than one wire* into the wire points for each breaker (2 hots or 2 neutrals to one breaker connection)? It looks like this panel uses "holes" (like the holes in a ground bar or neutral bus bar where you terminate those wires) at the connection points for each breaker, as opposed to "clamping plates" (like on typical direct-wired circuit breakers). I currently have a QO panel with *several* circuits that have 2 branch circuits connected to single breakers. Thanks.
@15:45 Just remember the hardest job, is being a mother. Don't forget to tell her she's brave and special while you play around in some hot, random, snug attic, trying to remember the Netflix password so she can finish her show about inequality.
Thank you for pointing out the lack of ground bars. That’s the first thing we noticed. But so much else about these panels is awesome.
why didn't you just pull meter
most utility companies require you to have them pull the meter and connect disconnect/connect the service drop entrance. some do allow electricians to do so, with prior approval!
@@throttlebottle5906 Weird, my electricians just pulled it - and added the new wiring to the transformer hot too even - upgraded from 100A to 200A service. I have 2 solar arrays as well (8kW) and a 14-50 in my garage. Just dumb Square D homeline everything though.
Do you not have "mandatory tests" in the US?
Insulation Resitance, fault loop impedance, earth resistance tests etc...?
Instead of a panel upgrade why not add more solar panels to fix the original issue. What happens if leviton discontinues this specialty panel?
That's my biggest issue with smart / special panels. What happens, 20, 30 years from now? Rather go with less features and time proven kit. Still a nice looking panel.
Jesus Christ. Can house wiring not utilize subpanels more to eliminate running every circuit to a single main panel? All that wiring converging at one panel is a mess. At a minimum, I would have a subpanel for each floor on those floors.
There is something about you that just make someone sit watch and learn..I should be watching the afc championship game with Bengals and Chiefs right now
Why not 4/3 with a 60 Amp 2 pole and hardwire the Tesla charger for 48 Amps worth of capability?
Can you go over the surge protection breaker here? Is that surge protecting the whole panel? Or just what’s branched on that circuit?
I replace new electrical panels with old ones original to the homes age, kind of a specialty electrical side of the field🤷🏻♂️.
That supply voltage (250 volt phase to phase) seems a little out of spec. Should really complain to Po Co.
On thanks giving,I'd just double stack the wire on a bedroom circuit
your stripping your wires a little long like on that main neutral AND again.... only turn breakers on or off with your left hand i hope ya never have to but some day you may thank me
And the homeowner should not be swapping out breakers inside of their panels. No different than a homeowner trying to fill up Freon in an air conditioner
Square D QO is my favorite breakers are about 8.00dollars each for single pole