Dryer Won’t Heat: Troubleshooting Electric Dryer Problems
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- See the written text for this troubleshooting video here: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/...
This video from Sears PartsDirect shows what to do if your electric dryer won't heat. Learn about a few easy tests you can run to find the problem, including using a multimeter to make sure current is flowing between the parts.
www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/...
1. Check the power supply to the dryer
Check the dryer is getting the correct amount of power. The heating element needs 240 volts of electricity to heat. The motor will run even if the dryer is only getting 120 volts of power.
Check the power cord to make sure it’s not damaged. Then, reset the house circuit breaker to make sure it’s not tripped. Set the dryer to a timed dry, high-heat cycle and see if it heats up after resetting the breakers.
If it’s still not heating, check the components on the control circuit. Checking continuity with a multimeter will allow us to test them all at once.
• Unplug the dryer.
• Remove the back panel from the dryer, then remove the back of the control panel.
• Unplug the large red wire from terminal "A" on the timer. Set the multimeter to read ohms of resistance.
• Measure resistance between the large red wire on the timer and the heating element terminal where the large red wire is connected. If it measures near 15 ohms of resistance through this circuit, the heating element, high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse are okay. You can skip ahead to learn how to check out your timer.
2. Check the heating element
If the multimeter measured no electrical continuity through this circuit, check the heating element. Place the multimeter leads on the heating element terminals. The multimeter should measure near 15 ohms of resistance through the heating element.
If it measured no continuity, the heating element is broken. This video shows how to replace it. www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/...
If it measured near 15 ohms of resistance, the heating element is good.
3. Check the high-limit thermostat
Check the high-limit thermostat next. Place one meter lead on each terminal of the high-limit thermostat. The meter should measure near 0 ohms. If it measured no continuity, the high-limit thermostat will need to be replaced.
4. Test the operating thermostat
If the high-limit thermostat is okay, check the operating thermostat next. Place one meter lead on the red wire and the other meter lead on the red-white wire. It should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the operating thermostat. If it measured no continuity, the operating thermostat will need to be replaced.
5. Check the thermal cut-off fuse
If the operating thermostat is good, check the thermal cut-off fuse next. Place one meter lead on the red-white wire and the other on the red wire. The meter should measure near 0 ohms. If it measured no continuity, replace the thermal cut-off fuse. www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/...
6. Check timer last
If the thermal cut-off fuse is good, check the timer. With the dryer still disconnected, turn the timer to timed dry, high heat. Place one meter lead on terminal A with the red wire and the other on terminal C with the black wire. If it measured no continuity, then the timer is broken.
Here’s a video that shows you how to replace it. www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/...
7. Other possible problems
If you’ve made it through all these checks and you still haven’t found the problem, you could have a defective motor centrifugal switch, a bad plug or a failed circuit breaker. You'll need to get a service technician to check these for you.
The video includes these parts and tools. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your dryer.
Heating element
www.searspartsdirect.com/part...
High-limit thermostat
www.searspartsdirect.com/part...
Operating thermostat
www.searspartsdirect.com/part...
Thermal cut-off fuse kit
www.searspartsdirect.com/part...
Timer
www.searspartsdirect.com/part...
Find parts for your dryer at:
www.searspartsdirect.com/part...
Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician. www.searshomeservices.com/rep... - Навчання та стиль
Thank you Wayne! Lots of good videos on UA-cam about how to test & repair a dryer. BUT - yours is absolutely the best! That lil trick about testing the whole circuit got me to find where the problem was. My new thermal cut-off fuse had a loose connection inside. Slightest wiggle & no continuity. So a great big thanks to you for showing us the best way to test the entire circuit!
I wish every troubleshooting video was as thorough and organized as this one. So glad I found it. Another reason why Kenmore has been our fav major appliance brand.
This has nothing to do with kenmor? This is some guy from sears showing you how to fix something
This video has been super helpful to me. I have been able to troubleshoot and repair my dryer twice in the past three years. Ended up costing me $35 for a heating element. Same issue both times. Heating element is readily available on Amazon. Huge savings over having to buy a new dryer! Thank you so much!
This video was a life saver for me. I was just about to finally cave and call a tech for this one because I replaced every component in the chain in terms of heating. Everything was reading good and I was at a loss. This video helped me figure out it was my timer that was defective. I took the test one step further and figured out I get continuity on the timer if I turn it in a certain way. Plugged it back in and sure enough my dryer heats up if I turned the timer slightly and goes cold if I let go. Really appreciate the info here
Of all the videos I've seen on checking for no heat yours was the easiest to understand. It gave clear values for what to look for in a logical sequence. It was a little fast so I had to keep pausing the video to go back to hear what was said and look at the values on the meter but overall the best. And I fixed my dryer. :-)
Without this video, I’d have never thought it was the TIMER that was giving the problem. I put a new one and so glad it’s working.
Bought a $60 timer from Amazon and $20 Multimeter from Walmart, learnt the basics of Multimeter after watching few videos. There you go!
And, I liked the approach of checking the overall circuit first without having to go through each element such as thermostats, fuse, etc.
Thank you so much!
Which circuit do i need to reset? Is the the range or the specific one for dryer
Can't believe how relevant this is today. I bought the entire heating set; minus the timer, for 30 dollars and just replaced them all in under 30 minutes. Thanks to this video and showing me where components were at.
Thank you so much for making this available. I used this video to determine my heating element was bad. We bought the replacement parts, tested it, installed it and now my dryer works great again! Thank you! RIP Sears!
Thanks for the positive feedback. We're glad to hear that you got your dryer fixed and that our video helped.
Fantastic information. I tracked my problem down to the thermal cutoff fuse. I bridged those 2 wires as a test and the dryer ran normally. A new $11 part and it's back in business!
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that you got the dryer fixed.
Wow. What a great video!
Well organized and easy to understand.
I wish Wayne could explain all of life's problems
You would not like where he sticks the probe. 🤣🤣
Thank you for the greatest diagnostic video ever. This helped so much.
Great video! It looks like none of the problems are difficult to fix. BTW, I replaced the motor switch (a $35 part at the time) on my old dryer and gave it 5 more years or so, after Handyman Appliance Parts told me I couldn't do that and needed a new dryer.
No continuity on Thermal Cut-Off was my issue! Thanks for this video!
Great and easy diagnosis for all the potential areas that could be at fault.
Wayne, Thank you, your are a very good teacher!!!!!
We appreciate your positive feedback.
awesome video. thank you, i fixed my dryer .
Thank you Wayne!!!
You helped me fix my dryer thank you
Thanks for the video! Troubleshooting took me right to the timer. $90 and 20 minutes labor and she was back up and running
Thank y'all so much for saving me time and money with the tip to reset the breaker! That did the trick.
Thanks for the great video. Just replaced the thermal cut-off fuse and dryer is back in business.
We're glad to hear that you got the dryer fixed. Thanks for letting us know what you found.
My cutoff fuse keep blowing but the rest of the element and fuses are good please replace the cutoff fuse three times and dryer heats for 30 seconds then go back
I have a Samsung dryer
Just Excellent - simple and accurate!
Good job. Easy to understand and i fixed my dryer.
Thanks. It helped a lot. Fixed mine
Thank you mr Wayne
Thank you sir! Great video, short sweet and to the point! You saved me some good money in a house where the damn clothes washer and dryer seem to run constantly and the world ends when they don’t!
We're glad to hear that you liked the video. Thanks for the feedback.
THANK YOU !!!
I wish I would have seen this video before I spent $50 on a heating element for my dryer. Turns out its my timer. Thank you for this video though it definitely helped me!
We're sorry to hear that you initially purchased the wrong part. If you bought the heating element from Sears PartsDirect and you need help returning the unused part, let us know. Thanks for posting the results of your troubleshooting tests. That can help other viewers facing similar problems.
Awesome video! Can't thank you enough
Just saved me $100s. Thanks!
thank you wayne
Stupid breaker! I never would have thought about it with the motor spinning. Thank you bearded genie man
This was my problem too! One of the breaker poles was not fully set.
P.S. - Thank you Wayne!
Great help. Although all the tests proved all working properly, it sent me looking elsewhere, I found a hot lead in the circuit panel that was screwed down over the wire insulation, which eventually failed. Dryer back up and running at zero cost. Thanks!
muy bueno es de grandes este tutorial ayuda bastante. saludos
hi wayne I have frigidaire affinity,model# faqg7072wd in normal setting in the dial, does not heat up, if I move the dial to the next setting , it work perfect, what is my problem please help me, I watched almost all yours videos, thank you, from ontario ca
That dryer has a heating element with 3 sections that act like 3 independent heating elements. Relays in the electronic control board control the sections of the heating element. The dryer has a diagnostic test that checks the sections of the heating element. We recommend that you test the heating element and relays using the diagnostic test for the dryer. The tech sheet shows how to enter and use the diagnostic test. Unplug the dryer and open the control console to find the tech sheet. Reassemble the control console before plugging the dryer back in and entering the diagnostic test mode.
If all 3 relays work and all 3 element sections heat properly during the diagnostic test, then an internal electronic control board failure is likely preventing the dryer from heating in the normal cycle. If a section of the heating element doesn’t work in the diagnostic test mode, then that section of the heating element may be defective or a relay on the electronic control board may have failed. This advice should get you started in the right direction to diagnose and fix the dryer. If you need more assistance, let us know.
Hello. I agree with the other posts,, great video. However, after checking everything as shown, I still have no heat on my Kenmore dryer. I plugged the dryer in, placed it on high heat. The heater terminals themselves are reading 120 volts on each of the 2 terminals. Any ideas?
Thank you Sir!
We recommend against checking live voltage on the heating element terminals. You could have measured 120 volts on each of those 2 terminals and still not be getting 240 volts to the heating element depending on how you measured that voltage. Voltage from one leg of the 240 volt power supply can travel to the other leg through the heating element. For the heating element to get the 120 volts through the motor centrifugal switch, the motor must be running.
Your details seem to indicate that the heating element is getting power through the L1 leg that goes through the timer and control circuit.
We recommend that you have an electrician check the dryer’s electrical outlet for 240 volts of power.
If the dryer’s electrical outlet is okay, then a broken motor centrifugal switch or a broken wire in the L2 leg of the heating element circuit could be preventing the dryer from heating. We recommend that you unplug the dryer and check the wiring in the L2 leg of the heating element circuit.
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When I worked at Sears Parts, we sold a ton of Thermal Fuses (p/n 3392519). Why is it not something that was checked in this video?
In an electric dryer, the thermal fuse (part 3392519) shuts off the motor when the fuse blows. In a gas dryer, the thermal fuse does prevent the dryer from heating so we do address that issue in this gas dryer troubleshooting video: ua-cam.com/video/7KaMwV85qUI/v-deo.html
super nice！
Hi. I have an LG electric dryer model number DLE2050W. Dryer worked fine. We recently moved and had to change the cord now it doesn't heat up. We checked the thermostat and heating element, both are in working order. Please help. thanks
First, unplug the dryer and check the wiring connections of your new power cord to the terminal block on the back of the dryer. Use the installation instructions in your owner’s manual to guide you in checking those connections. Here’s a link for the owner’s manual on a common LG dryer: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/dle3170w-lg-parts-dryer-manual?manualIndex=0 . Power cord installation instructions begin on page 24 of that manual. If your LG dryer differs from that model, use the instructions in the owner’s manual for your exact model. If you have the power cord connected properly, then the power cord could be defective or you may not be getting 240 volts out of the electrical outlet in your new location. Here’s a video that shows how to check the electrical outlet for 240 volt power: ua-cam.com/video/2LU30d9vZ3w/v-deo.html . If the electrical outlet at your new location is defective, have an electrician repair the outlet. If the outlet is okay, then your power cord is likely defective.
I wish I would of found this video sooner. I bought a kit and replaced every switch. Now the timer is acting up. I know where this box of metal is going next.
kenmore 110.60022010 has a total circuit ohm of 9, not 15. the timer isn't reading but the dryer is a different model. just wondering if a step is different between the two models?
Your dryer is basically the same as the one shown in the video. Measuring 9 ohms of resistance through the circuit is a little low. Unplug the dryer and check the heating element for damaged coils. Replace the heating element if it's damaged. If you need more help, let us know.
161 appliance repair companies disliked this video LOL :)
My Kenmore dryer is continually blowing 30 amps fuses. I had an electrician re-run the line and replace the outlet, still blowing, so found this video and used it to troubleshoot. I am measuring 9-11 ohms of resistance on my heating element, not 15. The dryer will run and heat up, but will still blow fuses - always one of the two 30 amp dedicated (240 volts). The heating element loses power, while the motor still tumbles. Wondering if I should replace the element? All other circuits have continuity, no lint/obstructions tripping the cut off. the only apparent issue is the element measuring less than 15 ohms. Thx for any help you can provide.
I have heard that the motor can wear and draw extra power to turn, blowing the fuses, but that wouldn’t explain the lower ohm count on the element.
@@sergesamson76 There is a possibility that the lower ohm reading on the element could indicate some damage. Try checking for a short in the element by unplugging the dryer and placing one meter probe on an element lead and touching the other meter probe to the metal element casing. Repeat the test on the other element lead. If you measure any ohm reading instead of infinite resistance during those tests then the element is shorting to metal and should be replaced. If the element isn't shorting to metal, then the lower ohm reading likely isn't causing the breaker to trip.
@@searspartsdirect thanks! I’ll try that asap.
Thank you my dryer is working again.
We're glad to hear that you got the dryer fixed. Thanks for letting us know.
my heating element reads 10, the timer reads nothing. the full circut was 10. the heating element had read 10 on both the new and old after replacing. the rest were as video showed. should i only replace the timer this time?
First, this video is amazing!!! Great explanations.
My heating element is measuring 9.7-9.8 ohms. You state it should be 15 ohms.
I'm getting no heat. I've inspected the heating element, no breaks (which is why it has continuity in the first place, I guess). So my thought is 9.8 ohms is not enough to heat the coils? Is this correct?
I've had the dryer completely apart. The vents are clean. Everything seems to be working, just no heat.
The element should heat up if electric current flows through it even though you measure only 9.7 ohms. A blown fuse, wiring break or control failure is likely preventing the dryer from heating. A voltage supply failure could also prevent the dryer from heating. If you have a dryer like the one shown in the video, go through the troubleshooting shown tofind the cause of the heating failure. If you have a different type of dryer, let us know the model number of your dryer and we'll try to help you with specific troubleshooting for your model.
@@searspartsdirect it looks like the exact same unit. I have continuity from the timer to the heater. I went ahead and checked voltage at the plug (3 wire 220) and it's reading 90. So I'm pretty sure I need to get an electrician to replace that breaker in the box.
my dryer does not heat long enough to thoroughly dry. I have replaced the element and cleaned all vents. the dryer heater will cycle on an off but does not seem to stay on long enough to dry.
If you have a dryer like the one shown in the video then a faulty operating thermostat may be shutting off the heating element to quickly. A bad high-limit thermostat could also shut off the heating element. Try replacing the operating thermostat and if the problem continues, replace the high-limit thermostat.
If you have a different dryer than the one shown in the video or you need more help, let us know the model number of your dryer and send us additional details.
I have an old Maytag dryer DE8200. Will this video help me figure out why the timer won't advance and why the dryer won't heat?
No. Your Maytag dryer model DE8200 has controls that differ from the controls on the dryer shown in this video. To find out what’s preventing the timer from advancing and the heating element from working in your model, set the timer to the Air Fluff setting and see if the timer advances in that mode. The Air Fluff mode uses timer contact 3 to send current to the timer motor and advance the timer continuously. The automatic modes send current to the timer motor through the operating thermostat until those modes reach the end of the cycle. If the timer advances using the Air Fluff mode, then you know that the timer motor and timer contact 3 are okay. If the timer doesn’t advance in the Air Fluff mode, unplug the dryer and check the wiring connections on the timer. Reconnect any loose wires and repair any broken wires. If the timer wiring is okay, you’ll likely need to replace the timer. Replacing the timer may or may not fix the dryer heating failure. Troubleshooting the heating failure in your Maytag DE8200 dryer is similar to the troubleshooting shown in the video. Check the house circuit breakers for the dryer first because the dryer won’t heat if it’s only getting 120 volts of power instead of 240 volts of power. If the dryer is getting 240 volts of power, then a bad operating thermostat, failed high-limit thermostat, broken heating element, wiring failure or a broken motor centrifugal switch could be preventing the dryer from heating. Unplug the dryer and check continuity through the operating thermostat (yellow/black to purple wire) using a multimeter. Replace the operating thermostat if your meter measures infinite resistance through the operating thermostat. Check continuity through the high-limit thermostat and replace the high-limit thermostat if your meter measures infinite resistance through that components. Check for continuity through the heating element and replace the heating element if your meter measures infinite resistance through the element. If all of those components are okay, then a bad timer, wiring failure or a failed motor centrifugal switch is likely preventing the dryer from heating. We hope that these tips will help you find the cause of the timer and heating problem in your Maytag dryer. If you need more assistance, let us know. Here's a link to order parts for your dryer: www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/de8200/3048/0151200.html
@@searspartsdirect Thanks. Yeah, it worked fine on air fluff. Actually, it turns out that the thermostat on the blower--I think it's called the cycling thermostat--had a loose wire. Everything is working fine now.
@@evelyndrak4436 Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that you fixed the problem.
My problem is different: (gas dryer):
1. set to WARM -> close door -> press start (WORKS)
2. set to HIGH -> close door -> press start (stays cold)
strangely:
3. set to WARM -> close door -> press start -> WAIT a minute -> then set to HIGH (WORKS)
All thermostats read fine.
So its motor centrifugal switch or defective circuit breaker maybe?
I just replaced the heating element and the thermal fuse near the blower housing on my Kenmore series 80 dryer plugged it in and motor is running but no heat I tested the timer and the hi limit thermostat on the heating element and get 9.5 ohms of resistance do you happen to know what could be the problem or what I should test with the voltmeter
Check the house circuit breakers for the dryer. The motor will run but the dryer won't heat if one of the two circuit breakers tripped. Reset both circuit breakers and see if the dryer heats. If that doesn't help, unplug the dryer and check the thermal cut-off fuse at the top of the heater box for continuity. Replace that thermal cut-off fuse if your meter measures infinite resistance through that fuse. We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know the model number of your dryer and give us more details about the failure.
Mines also at 9.4 were you able to fix yours and if so what was the problem ?
Wayne! Timer for me. TU.
Thanks for letting us know what you found wrong. We're glad to hear that you fixed the problem.
i done all that last thing i change the wire from the breaker box to outlet was 27 years old . replace with a new one and it runs like new
Trying to get into the back panel, I removed the screws only to discover it appears to be spot-welded in strategic places. Model: 110.630321
That model of dryer is different than the dryer shown in the video. You can access the heating element and other heating system components in that dryer by pulling off the bottom front service panel as shown in this illustrated guide (with the dryer unplugged): www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-replace-a-dryer-thermistor . We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
I did the circuit check between timer and heating element but i was only getting 4-11 ohms. It mostly hangs around 5 ohms. The new heating element gets about 13 by itself. Does this mean one of my components is bad? I tested each other component including the timer and they all have continuity. Also, i checked the screw for the plugs and i'm getting 120 120 230 so it is getting proper power. It runs, but there's no heat.
Nvm, I didn’t reconnect high limit thermostat right
My kenmore dryer is not heating. Through this testing I found he thermal cut off fuse was bad and I replaced it, but still not heating. All other fuses/thermostats and the heating element are testing good, but I don’t have continuity through the whole series. From your comments I’m thinking now the motor centrifugal switch, but I saw something else online that pointed to the temperature selection switch. When I tested it I only get continuity on low, not the other two settings. If this switch is bad would this also cause there to be no continuity through entire series? Having a hard time finding videos online showing how to test this switch, only read a description and I want to be sure it’s bad before I pay for the part. Haven’t tackled looking at the motor switch as it involves so much more work to get at and the comments indicated it’s better left to a pro. Any thoughts?
There's a possibility that a bad temperature selection switch could prevent the dryer from heating depending on your model. If your meter measures continuity through the switch on low heat, then the element should heat on that setting in most dryers. Let us know the model number of your dryer and we'll try to provide you with some troubleshooting tips to help you resolve the heating problem. Checking the motor centrifugal switch is typically a test that's best left to service technicians because the dryer needs to be running and a live voltage check is required to check that switch for most dryers. Live voltage checks are dangerous so we don't recommend that you attempt them. We'll let you know if there's a way to safely check that switch with power disconnected to your dryer once we get your model number.
Sears PartsDirect. model # 110.61202011. And the dryer doesn’t heat up at all at any setting, despite there being continuity on the low setting. Very confusing. Thanks for your help.
Sears PartsDirect: one more update. Was able to look up how to test the centrifugal switch for continuity while disconnected and switch tests ok. The temp selector switch (testing the other ends of the blue and violet wires at the timer) has good ohms readings on high and medium (about 9000 and 4000 respectively) and reads zero ohms on low. Confusing to me because if I test for continuity at the switch itself I get no continuity on high and med and good continuity on low. 🤔. I’m taking a leap of faith that something is not right with this switch and I’ve ordered one. If you still have any words of wisdom for me I’m all ears. Really hoping this works. There was a lot of lint in and around the motor as well which I cleaned out.
@@lynnbeals2038 Thanks for providing that model number. We looked at the wiring diagram for your dryer. A bad temperature selector switch shouldn't prevent the dryer from heating using any setting on your dryer. Check continuity through the timer by unplugging the dryer and setting the timer in the middle of a Timed Regular cycle. Check continuity through the spades that the black and red wires connect to on the timer as shown at 3:09 in the video. Your meter should measure near 0 ohms of resistance (continuity) through those timer contacts. If the meter measures infinite resistance, replace the timer because internal timer contacts aren't sending voltage to the heating element circuit. If the timer is okay, continue checking the circuit between the timer and the heating element to find the break in the circuit. If the timer is okay and the circuit between the timer and heating element is okay, then there's a possibility that a voltage supply problem is preventing the dryer from heating or a wiring failure between the terminal block and the motor centrifugal switch or between the motor centrifugal switch and the heating element is preventing the dryer from heating. Check the wiring in the motor centrifugal switch circuit and repair the wiring break if you find one. If the motor centrifugal switch circuit is okay, then a voltage supply problem could be preventing the dryer from heating. Try resetting the house circuit breakers for the dryer. That may restore power to the 120 volt L2 leg of 240 volt power if that breaker was tripped. The dryer will run if it has the 120 volt L1 leg of power. The dryer won't heat if the L2 leg of power is missing. We hope these additional tips help. Let us know if you need more assistance.
The dryer timer in the video is W10186032. I followed link in the info and gave me the wrong timer model.
We apologize for the confusion that we caused by providing that dryer timer link. We're correcting the link to go to the Sears PartsDirect webpage for part W10186032. Thanks for pointing out that issue.
I have replaced my fuse, coil and thermostat and I still dont have any hot air. What else can I check?
A voltage supply problem can prevent the dryer from heating. The dryer will run if it's getting 120 volts from one leg of the power supply. Reset the double breaker for the dryer to make sure the electrical outlet is getting both legs of 120 volt power for the 240 volts the element needs to produce heat. If that doesn't help fix the problem, then a bad high-limit thermostat, a failed timer or a bad motor centrifugal switch could be preventing the dryer from heating. Here's a link for an article that has the written text of the video www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/electric-dryer-wont-heat-troubleshooting-video . That written text may help you thoroughly check additional components that could be preventing the dryer from heating. Unplug the dryer and check the high-limit thermostat and timer as shown in the video. The motor centrifugal switch is difficult to safely check. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know (and give us the model number of your dryer so we can see the exact type that you have).
All of my thermostats have continuity and go t zero on all of them. The heating element has 120 volts on both legs but does not heat up. Makes no sense. Thermal fuse and high limit thermostat all show continuity at zero and they all have 120 volts on both legs where ever I check. Never seen anything like it.
I just replaced the element in my dryer. The element works and glows orange but will only heat for a short while then goes cool. Thats when using the Auto Moisture Sensing Setting on the timer. But set it on Timed Dry and it heats and dries but more slowly than the other setting on the timer. Could the timer be bad? My dryer looks exactly like the one in the video. Mine is model # 110.61212011
Since it dries on Timed Dry I don't think it is the Thermal Fuse. But right now I am lost.
I did make sure the dryer vent was clean and blew out the dryer with a weed blower. (I took in outside) and I can feel the heat in the vent ducting so I am sure it is clear of lint. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks for providing us that model number. We didn't find information on that exact model number but we found the technical information on model 110.61202011 that we believe is the same for your dryer. On your type of dryer, the thermal fuse will shut off the motor if the dryer overheats and trips the thermal fuse so the thermal fuse isn't affecting the heating element in your dryer. You're right when you're thinking that the thermal fuse isn't causing the heating problem. When testing the dryer, it's best to have a wet load of clothes in the dryer drum so the thermostats and sensor will work normally. If you've been checking the heating with the drum empty, load the dryer with wet clothes to see if the heating element works properly. The dryer timer in this dryer uses the same contacts to send current to the heating element in the Auto Moisture Sensing Setting and the Timed Dry modes. The timer is closing those contacts properly in the Auto Moisture Sensing Setting because the element glows orange. You can check the timer contacts in Timed Dry mode by UNPLUGGING THE DRYER, setting the timer to Timed Dry and measuring the resistance through the timer prongs C and A as shown at 3:06 in this video. Your meter should measure near zero ohms of resistance through those timer contacts. If your meter measures resistance higher than zero ohms (such as 10 or 20 ohms), then the timer isn't fully closing the contact that sends current through the C and A timer prongs in the Timed Dry mode. Replace the timer if it isn't fully closing the C-to-A contact in the Timed Dry mode. We hope these tips help. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Hello. Thanks for the tips and response. I have been running the dryer with a load of wet clothes. Sometimes it heats up and sometimes it doesn't. I can use Timed Heat and Auto Moisture sensing and sometimes they heat and after a while they quit.
On the first test with the red wire from the plug on the timer to the red wire on the element it reads .09 ohms on the tester which is low per the video at the 1.40 minute mark.
I have made sure the dryer vent is clear and the vent system is clear and lint free. There was no lint found. We are particular about keeping the lint screen clean after a couple of loads. Plus I blew the dryer out with a weed blower while I had it in the garage testing it.
I have done all the checks in the video and everything checks out as it should. The new element reads the same as the old element at .09 ohms on two different testers. So I don't know if this is the problem or not.
The timer checked out OK with full continuity when set as instructed. So I am stumped.
I checked the voltage at the wall and got 244 volts.
The serial # is M20820212 if that helps.
OK I have now replaced the new element with another new element and replaced all 4 sensors and it still will not make it through a complete cycle without shutting down the heat. Everything test good with the tester as shown in the video.
Are there any other heat sensors to check? It does cycle, heats for a while and then shuts down for about 30 seconds and then the element heats up again and 3/4ths of the way through the Auto Sensing cycle it stops heating and nothing will make it start heating again. And i put a wet towel in it to test it.
@@ttiroff At the end of the Auto Sensing cycle, the timer opens the contact through prongs C and A to run the dryer with no heat and cool down the load. The Timed cycle may open that same contact at the end of the cycle. That may be what you're seeing. When the dryer stops heating 3/4ths of the way through the Auto Sensing cycle, unplug the dryer and check for continuity through the C and A timer prongs. If your meter measures OL (open load or infinite resistance), then the timer is opening the C-to-A contact at that point during the Auto Sensing cycle. If the dryer heats and works properly in the Timed cycle and the timer is shutting off the heat at the end of the Auto Sensing cycle, then the dryer is likely working as it should. If clothes isn't getting dry in the Auto Sensing cycle, clean the metal moisture sensing bars inside the drum so the control system properly detects garment moisture as the load dries in the Auto Sensing cycle. You can use rubbing alcohol to clean the moisture sensing bars. We hope this additional information helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
@@searspartsdirect Well its turns out the timer was bad even though it checked out OK per the video. The more I turned it it finally quit and would not show continuity. About that time my wife told me it had stopped making the clicking noise when you turned it some time back. Sigh... Why didn't she tell me that to start with. This is not an appliance I use enough to know how it is supposed to sound. So now after a new element, all the sensors and a new timer it works again. Thanks for the excellent video Sears guys. This would have been harder without it.
Be sure to remove and clean the INSIDE-rear air duct! If this is clogged with lint and debris, it can cause the system to run hot and the thermal cutoff fuse to fail!
Where can i find that at
Model: C1108456290 Type: DR-6 Won't start at all, what should I do?
We recommend that you follow the troubleshooting described in this video/article: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/electric-dryer-wont-start-troubleshooting-video . If you need more help, let us know.
Me toooooooo👍👍👍👍👍
what if everything you said tests good and 0nly the elemet doesn't get 220?
red ad black on timer don't get 220
230 from cord to dryer
element gets 120 on both red and red white
in phase I guess
We don’t recommend using live voltage checks because of their danger, but because you’ve already performed some of the checks, we’ll comment on your results and recommend some resistance checks that should help you find the cause of the heating failure in your dryer.
The test on the red and black wires on the timer is a resistance test, not a voltage check. With the timer set in a heating portion of the cycle, you should measure near 0 ohms of resistance across the red and black wires. If you measure 0 ohms, this indicates that the 120 volts from the L1 leg of the black wire is getting through the timer. The timer only provides 120 volts to the element. The second leg (L2) of 120 volts goes from the red wire on the power cord through the motor centrifugal switch to the element. The motor centrifugal switch completes that circuit when the motor is running.
If you leave both wires connected to the element when checking voltage, you’ll measure 120 volts on both the red and red/white if the element isn’t broken because the voltage from one leg of power travels through the element to energize the other leg with 120 volts.
You indicated that everything we said to check tests good. A wiring break or a bad motor centrifugal switch could be preventing the element from getting 240 volts of power. We recommend that you unplug the dryer and check for continuity from the red wire on the timer to the red/white wire on the element. If you measure near 0 ohms of resistance then the L1 leg of power should be reaching the element.
If you measure infinite resistance, then you’ll need to find the break in the wiring.
If the L1 leg is okay, check for continuity through red wire between the power cord connection on the terminal block and the motor centrifugal switch. Also check the continuity between the red wire on the motor centrifugal switch to the red wire on the element. If you measure infinite resistance through either of those wires, then find and repair the wiring break.
If all of those wires have continuity, then your likely failure is in the motor centrifugal switch.
My heating element measures 9 ohms. is that ok
That resistance value is within the acceptable range for most dryers. The heating element is likely okay.
How too repairh
Well done, but that's a little over my head. Good info though.
GREAT video. BUT when I take the back off my Canadian Kenmore it doesn't look anything like this. I think the heating element might be on the front. But the front of the cabinet does not have an upper and lower panel. It is all one piece. How do I access the lower panel to see if the heating element is there. Thanks.
Let us know the model number of your dryer and we'll provide some instructions.
@@searspartsdirect 970-C8909700
@@dec222ab Thanks for providing that model number. To access the heating element on that model, you'll need to unplug the dryer then remove the top panel. Disconnect the wire harness connections from the control panel and remove the control panel. Pull the lint screen out of the housing and remove the front dryer cabinet panel. The front panel has screws at the very bottom and it should have some screws at the top that attach it to the cabinet. Disconnect the door switch wire harness as you pull the front panel off. You may need to remove the lint duct housing to access the heating element. We hope these general disassembly tips help. If you need further assistance, let us know.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks for that. I removed the control panel, no problem. And the two screws at the top and very bottom of the front panel. But there seem to be two catches on both sides of the panel. How do I release those? I've tried sticking a putty knife in from the side, from the top and from underneath and tried prying it out from the side of the cabinet at that point but no go. What to do?
@@dec222ab Some models use a hook type of catch to attach the front panel to the side panels of the cabinet. Try lifting the front panel up slightly and pulling it off. Be careful. The front panel is heavy when the door is still attached. If that doesn't work, let us know and we'll try to help you further.