You made Such a great, informative, professional video. Very detailed. You helped me and many more truckers. God bless you .Take care. Please keep teaching us.
Articulated details are first class so hats off to you. Very much appreciated. You my friend are certainly class A instructor material and always will be, my rookie wrenching is one step up now
Just finished switching one out on a Western Star. Took the front wheel and step off to make enough room to get in there. After zip tying some air lines out of the way, the job was better. Still pretty tight. Needed a mirror to see the back bolt and nut. Your video really helped me prepare. Thank you!
Wha a great tutorial video, I’ve seen couple other videos about this but, you having the engine out of chassis make it more easy to see details and for you to explain things better. Thank you for sharing your knowledge God bless you and thank you again.
I was able to replace one on my Vanhool tx dd13 did everything you did and prime my coach change the fuel lines o’rings. Now my surging went away and also my rough idle. Thank you
Your video on point. Couple tips...useing small flash light you can see that last T30 bolt..i changed to different tool thought was T30 and it wasnt so got kinda nervous went back to T30 and taped with thr side of a hammer to sit in bolt cause stripped a little. I used small flat head screw driver to pop the tabs. The bottom 18mm was toughest. Used 3/8 socket with small wobble head extension from the inside of the fuel lines and stuck longer extension in between the still connected fuel lines and left it there till was ready to put back on. Thanks Video was a huge help.
Just did mine on a 3 filter system. I had to take off that part of the fuel pump that that sits under the fuel quantity valve to completely move the bracket to get to that back screw on the valve. Definitely need the right tools. Very tight hard to work in area. I put it back together in a fraction of the time it took to remove.
@@notkirill6991 I changed mine because it had a constant lope type surge while it idled. That's the best way I can describe it. It started and drove like normal though.
@@spencerwillis7578 I’m having this issue too, but when it’s cold I get a bit of a delay on throttle response in 9&10 gear. Did that happen with your truck as well?
@@cesarvelasquez9436 I did this repair in a truck that I had a driver in so I don't know for sure because I didn't drive it regularly but he never mentioned this issue to me.
If you’re not pressed for time you can silicone the back bolt to the bit and let it set overnight and spin it in first without dropping the bit/fastener. Silicone will allow you to just pull the bit out. You can also put a very small drop of crazy glue if pressed for time.
I had a really bad idle problem and I was thinking on replacing that part but before you can clean the inner fuel connector on water separator there is a white plastic bypass that mine was clogged with silicone or paper. Did that and my problems are completely gone!!
If a driver has mechanical knowledge , he can save a fortune. I know a guy who owned a 10 year old volva 2 million kms plus, and it ran very well and ran without issues for a year
Have you ever had a fuel filter housing leak coolant internally? I changed injector cup seals on a dd13 but fuel filter housing is still filling up with fuel.
Hi, Truck truck with dd15 cranks no starts, fault spn 157 Fmi16. Changed fuel filter housing, and HP fuel pump , still same code and no starting. And advise please
I have a 2014 freightliner Cascadia with a Detroit DD 15, and I do not have those hoses that you just connected in order to get to the valve, are you familiar with that or no why?
Hi Casey, I have idle stumbling problem with Detroit 60 series 12.7L 2003. RPM goes up and down in low idle but it is fine with fast idle. Does Detroit 60 series comes with the quantity control valve?
Would the quantity control value if leaking internally throw a code for pressure limiting valve? I am kind of new at DDS and have been struggling with one tractor that keeps throwing a high pressure leakage code, with no external leaks.
Hi my name for you I have a shop in Brookfield. I have a problem for DD 15 lost a prime and want to talk to you about this more. Maybe give me a little information please thank you.
Ok but seriously why does a fuel quantity valve give out? And will it cause major damage to the engine if left for an extended period of time? Say like 6 months with a looping idle
I paid a shop in Wisconsin a lot of money to change this part and it still makes the surge sound afterwards. The owner’s response was sorry bud must have been a bad remanufactured valve. and then didn’t offer to fix it again. And my engine still sounds like s***
Most of this is completely unnecessary. Just take fuel line bolt out. Pull out by hand, drain coolant, remove bracket, remove regulator and go in reverse.
Call me anal but I would continually clean as I went with brake clean fluid and I would make a plastic bung that goes in opening before I did any surface cleaning then after cleaning again with brake clean I would remove bung to drag any contamination out with it, my though is to have a bung with a little handle in centre and made to take old oring so when it's removed it wipes the bore clean, see told you I'm anal or OCD whatever
You made Such a great, informative, professional video. Very detailed. You helped me and many more truckers. God bless you .Take care. Please keep teaching us.
Articulated details are first class so hats off to you. Very much appreciated. You my friend are certainly class A instructor material and always will be, my rookie wrenching is one step up now
You are a treasure of information I love your videos keep them coming and we appreciate everything you do
Good teaching experience bro. It's just a little harder not bad with the engine being installed but this teaching is the way to go. Thanks again..
thankyou very much. Sometime when you all can, I would like to see you change the fuel pump on a DD-15..
Just finished switching one out on a Western Star. Took the front wheel and step off to make enough room to get in there. After zip tying some air lines out of the way, the job was better. Still pretty tight. Needed a mirror to see the back bolt and nut.
Your video really helped me prepare. Thank you!
Wha a great tutorial video, I’ve seen couple other videos about this but, you having the engine out of chassis make it more easy to see details and for you to explain things better.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge God bless you and thank you again.
Thank,you are a professional mecanic and teacher,thanks
I was able to replace one on my Vanhool tx dd13 did everything you did and prime my coach change the fuel lines o’rings. Now my surging went away and also my rough idle. Thank you
Where are you located?
What a clean work with instructions.
Thanks
Thanks for your help waiting for more Detroit engine videos .excellent instructions
Just discovered your work brother, nice videos. Very helpful. Good work by cameraman or cameragirl.
Thankyou, good video in lessons to do for yourself. You make so easy.
Really Good Instructions and very well explained Thanks!!!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Good job for the Camara man this video he’ll ke fix my truck
Your video on point. Couple tips...useing small flash light you can see that last T30 bolt..i changed to different tool thought was T30 and it wasnt so got kinda nervous went back to T30 and taped with thr side of a hammer to sit in bolt cause stripped a little. I used small flat head screw driver to pop the tabs. The bottom 18mm was toughest. Used 3/8 socket with small wobble head extension from the inside of the fuel lines and stuck longer extension in between the still connected fuel lines and left it there till was ready to put back on. Thanks Video was a huge help.
I did this my self bought the valve on line took me a few hours
no more problems
save me $$$
Very nice video! Excellent explanation and detail wish you had some Volvo ones!!!
Just did mine on a 3 filter system. I had to take off that part of the fuel pump that that sits under the fuel quantity valve to completely move the bracket to get to that back screw on the valve. Definitely need the right tools. Very tight hard to work in area. I put it back together in a fraction of the time it took to remove.
Why did you change it? Would this cause no start issue?
@@notkirill6991 I changed mine because it had a constant lope type surge while it idled. That's the best way I can describe it. It started and drove like normal though.
@@spencerwillis7578 I’m having this issue too, but when it’s cold I get a bit of a delay on throttle response in 9&10 gear. Did that happen with your truck as well?
@@cesarvelasquez9436 I did this repair in a truck that I had a driver in so I don't know for sure because I didn't drive it regularly but he never mentioned this issue to me.
@@spencerwillis7578 got it, thanks for the reply.
Great video, looking to good work done on my 2010 dd15, tried calling
Call tomorrow. If I don't answer, leave a voicemail. Sometimes I'm out in the shop.
Wow how amazing video, thank you so much
Thank You so much for this video FIVE STARS *****
Great video. Thank you so much for the information. Quick question after replacing this do we need to calibrate truck or not ? God bless you.
Thanks Buddy
Nice video...
I have another question. Do you have to change fuel pump in order to go from 3 filter system to the 2 filter system?
Great video,thank you
If you’re not pressed for time you can silicone the back bolt to the bit and let it set overnight and spin it in first without dropping the bit/fastener. Silicone will allow you to just pull the bit out. You can also put a very small drop of crazy glue if pressed for time.
I had a really bad idle problem and I was thinking on replacing that part but before you can clean the inner fuel connector on water separator there is a white plastic bypass that mine was clogged with silicone or paper. Did that and my problems are completely gone!!
Great job you are the best More videos
buen video gracias, el siguiente en español
Hi can we put rtv sealent on the mating surfaces if we suspect a loose installation? Thanks
Have you done a video showing how to replace the fuel pump on a 113 small nose cascadia, it’s so tight that there is almost no way to work it
If a driver has mechanical knowledge , he can save a fortune.
I know a guy who owned a 10 year old volva 2 million kms plus, and it ran very well and ran without issues for a year
Nice explained buddy
Does this valve only controls idle speed only or it affects whole range of engine load / power at all rpms?
What is the part number on a dd15 through 2015 Freightliner cascadia evolution? For the control module?
Have you ever had a fuel filter housing leak coolant internally? I changed injector cup seals on a dd13 but fuel filter housing is still filling up with fuel.
Nice job thxs
Excellent. Explained
Hi,
Truck truck with dd15 cranks no starts, fault spn 157 Fmi16. Changed fuel filter housing, and HP fuel pump , still same code and no starting. And advise please
Yo did you figure this out? Literally have the same exact issue right now.... please lmk
what year engine is this dd15? is it recommended or suggested to replace fuel line o rings?
Great video thks
I have a 2014 freightliner Cascadia with a Detroit DD 15, and I do not have those hoses that you just connected in order to get to the valve, are you familiar with that or no why?
Good Evening A code just popped up on my Dashboard SPN 1077 FMI 14 any guidance on what I should look for please and Thank you
How many hours you should charge for this job in the shop?
Ok
Does coolant need to be drained like the ddc service procedure says?
No
Hi Casey, I have idle stumbling problem with Detroit 60 series 12.7L 2003. RPM goes up and down in low idle but it is fine with fast idle. Does Detroit 60 series comes with the quantity control valve?
Thank You Brother
Can you show how to diagnose and replace an air compressor?
will the impact be able to fit with the steering column in way?
Would the quantity control value if leaking internally throw a code for pressure limiting valve? I am kind of new at DDS and have been struggling with one tractor that keeps throwing a high pressure leakage code, with no external leaks.
Man can we get a video on a fuel pump change out and a overhead valve adjustment
Would the surge hurt the injectors?
I can't take my braket off with that hose in the way how do u remove that hose infront of braket I see in your video it's not on there
❤❤❤❤❤❤
What are symptoms of bad quality control valve?
When I changed mine it didn't just pop in. I had to tighten bolts to get it seated. Maybe an O ring popped loose?
How did it run when you were finished?
Fine for 12 hours. Then same noise again and another failure. Next I'm replacing the whole hi pressure fuel pump.
Hi my name for you I have a shop in Brookfield. I have a problem for DD 15 lost a prime and want to talk to you about this more. Maybe give me a little information please thank you.
Thanks for the info. What would be a fair fee for labor on this job?
4 hours.
How much does that piece coast ?
Good information
How do u prime fuel after job is complete for diy person.
Where are you located ?
could the control valve, cause you to burn more fuel than you normally would? an also could it cause you to lose power?
I need to know the answer to to this question too
Same question here
Where is your shop located?
Really good job and well explained can you tell me tow stage valve position also thanks
Show us how to replace the engine harness on dd15
Had my quantity valve changed, and now my truck won’t turn on without starter fluid ? What you think is the problem?
Lost sealing somewhere. Probably at qcv.
I want to see ya doing it that way in a 3 piece fuel module
Me also. I have a three piece.
The housing needs to come down. Even with all the lines disconnected, there’s not enough room in there to reach the back fastener
@@_jrides_ Thats not true
DETROIT REBUILD SPECIALIST perhaps on a two filter system. I’ve never had luck on a 3 filter set up, didn’t realize this was a 2
@@_jrides_It can be done very easily with the correct tools on a 3 filter system without removing the fuel filter module.
Sir Where is your shop located at?
Where are you guys located ?
Thanks!
Got it! remove the motor to take the quality control vave!
And use an impact on the block! 😅
My truck was giving me 3 .5 milles per gallon ofter 6 hours of driving finly Rich up to 5.6. Can enybody tell me what to look for
👍
In chassis ...the fuel filter house has to come off ...unless you are plasticman the housing has to come off
That is NOT correct.
It is if you got sausage fingers!!
Ok but seriously why does a fuel quantity valve give out? And will it cause major damage to the engine if left for an extended period of time? Say like 6 months with a looping idle
@@carbombtorres1761 no sir. It won't hurt the engine. It will just surge and sound sick
Well thank you for the reply and info ...keep up the good work brother
Whats the estimated cost for the valve,if u may?
3-500 now
Do that again in chassis on a DD13 EPA10 3 filter system in a M2
Ok, what were the indication it was defective??
Surging at idel.
I paid a shop in Wisconsin a lot of money to change this part and it still makes the surge sound afterwards. The owner’s response was sorry bud must have been a bad remanufactured valve. and then didn’t offer to fix it again. And my engine still sounds like s***
Where you guys located
When you get a new fuel pump does it come with it?
Icp on a dd15 location 2016
Water in diesel mp4i problem
That valve is the biggest part of the expenses of a entire pump.
It make no sense to do the valve replacement instead of a pump replacement.
That back one need some hair around it
The 3 filter is worse, that bracket is a nuisance
No way are you taking the bracket off in chassis.
I have on a western star. Was a pain in the ass but it’s achievable
Most of this is completely unnecessary. Just take fuel line bolt out. Pull out by hand, drain coolant, remove bracket, remove regulator and go in reverse.
Definitely not that easy when you have the 3 filter style and limited space. If youve had one with difficult torques bolts to remove then youd know.
With inflame is not that easy even with all the right tools it is not fun BIG STRUGGLE
Just as easy unless its in a day cab lol
Really not the same story on chassi my guy.. just waisted over a day to get it off
Call me anal but I would continually clean as I went with brake clean fluid and I would make a plastic bung that goes in opening before I did any surface cleaning then after cleaning again with brake clean I would remove bung to drag any contamination out with it, my though is to have a bung with a little handle in centre and made to take old oring so when it's removed it wipes the bore clean, see told you I'm anal or OCD whatever
This video is a joke.hes not working in a real world situation.
Where you guys located