Thanks for your video Ed! I just did the same job an hour ago, on my GLC 350D -2017. You should begin the job by removing the start-stop-button key first (according to Mercedes instructions) and it is not necessary to mount the battery charger, it maybe for older cars (Mercedes instructions does not say anything about a charger). I didn't use a charger and it all went very well. But I also realized that you can't open the car when the battery is out... I was lucky that my new battery already was outside. My old battery was almost 6 years old (5y and 11m) and we have complained (for two years) to our local Mercedes dealer about two problem. 1. Start/stop don't work. 2. Instrument panel often was turned off during start at winter time. Totally black and you couldn't see your speed or any messages. Mercedes said that we maybe had to changed the whole instrument panel and I even started a case at my insurance company about this. Now I have fixed all these problem by myself and 20 minutes of work for a total cost of about $200 (for a Bosch battery). By the way, I didn't have to change the auxiliary battery. Regarding the Mercedes instructions, I got the info from a friend that is a car mechanic and he looked up my car in his service computer.
Thanks for the feedback and ideas! Do you think the aux battery holds power to the ECU hence no need for trickle charger? Even so I would use the trickle charger as a safeguard since it is very little additional effort.
I just googled and the aux battery acts as a backup for the main battery (as you say). But if the aux battery is dead you will have noticed early problems (starting) because of it, so I would say the consequence is that if you haven't had any problem starting/driving, the aux battery is working and you can change the main battery without a charger. "Usually when voltage converter fails, you will see flashing on-board computer error fault message with the following quote "auxiliary battery malfunction" or "stop vehicle shift to P leave engine running" warning message".
Good stuff, I wouldn’t say it’s an overkill with the plastic bag over the cable… if anything it shows that you care about the job at hand and are aware 👍🏼 we are thinking of buying the 250 (4cyl) and this is handy because it will be our first merc and I do all the servicing on our car so I appreciate your input and vids Keep up the good work Cheers from down under 🇦🇺👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😊😊🇦🇺🇦🇺
the battery charger i have has 2 settings on it, one is quick charge, the other is normal charge and the last one is trickle charge, its from harbor fright, so do i put it on the trickle charge setting when changing the battery like you did?
I have a similar issue. at stop engine ON/OFF is not working also a check engine P2610 code. They told me to change the main battery. Do you think that is a right diagnosis?
How old is your battery? Was the car sitting for a while? If so charge the battery and reset the code. A quick review of P2610 indicates it can be several issues one of which is the battery and/or aux battery. If the battery is 4 years old or has had a hard life then it is close to end of life anyway. Please keep us posted as I’m very curious.
The trickle charger I used was 12v, 750ma. I believe they are $10 at harbor freight. This held the ecu settings for me but would not power the rear trunk lid with the battery removed.
I have a battery charger that has 3 different settings, fast charge, normal charge, and trickle charge, so I guess that I switch it to the trickle charge setting
Thanks for watching. I put in a highly rated NAPA Legend battery specified for the car. It has 920 cranking amps, 800 cold cranking amps, and is rated at 80AH.
Thank you for bringing this to my attention. There are many ambiguous posts on the Mercedes forums as to whether battery registration is required on this model. I found a post that included an actual Mercedes service bulletin that said registration is required. Apparently (not in the bulletin) the ecu tracks the number of cycles on the battery and charges older batteries more aggressively than newer ones. They say if the counter is not reset it will shorten the life of the new battery. The ODB2 scanner I have will not perform this function. I read the Foxwell NT530 scanner will work. Give me a few days to order one and give it a try and let you know the results.
@@edshandymantips4862 Just started receiving "Stop Vehicle - Leave Engine Running" warning on my 2018 GLC300. I would REALLY appreciate if you did a video on the reset procedure!
I just left the auto shop and got a new battery but the auto stop is still not working.. I was told that was the problem but not working.. they claim they did a diagnostic test
Sorry to hear. Many factors need to be fulfilled for the auto start/stop to work including a fully charged battery. Perhaps the new battery is not fully charged? Drive a few hours to charge battery to see if this is the cause. Other things like: the indicator lamp in the ECO button is lit green the outside temperature and the atmospheric air pressure is within the range that is suitable for the system the engine is at normal operating temperature the set temperature for the vehicle interior has been reached the system detects that the windshield is not fogged up when the air-conditioning system is switched on the hood is closed the driver's door is closed and the driver's seat belt is fastened Another common cause is a defective auxiliary battery, however, you normally get a dash warning or OBD code. Not related but make sure the shop registered the new battery with the ecu. Hope this helps.
Rich people think you get what you pay for. I can do all that in a 2002 Toyota without doing all that, oh 245000 miles and counting, intelligent stupid German engineering at it again.
Don't ever compare that Crap Toyota/Lexus to Mercedes in any way...from Dessign, agility structural undercarriage handling robust etc. Only in north America fools buy Toyota for the price of Mercedes...not even in Japan. In Japanthe the elites drives Mercedes not Toyota brand
Thanks for your video Ed! I just did the same job an hour ago, on my GLC 350D -2017.
You should begin the job by removing the start-stop-button key first (according to Mercedes instructions) and it is not necessary to mount the battery charger, it maybe for older cars (Mercedes instructions does not say anything about a charger). I didn't use a charger and it all went very well.
But I also realized that you can't open the car when the battery is out... I was lucky that my new battery already was outside.
My old battery was almost 6 years old (5y and 11m) and we have complained (for two years) to our local Mercedes dealer about two problem. 1. Start/stop don't work. 2. Instrument panel often was turned off during start at winter time. Totally black and you couldn't see your speed or any messages.
Mercedes said that we maybe had to changed the whole instrument panel and I even started a case at my insurance company about this. Now I have fixed all these problem by myself and 20 minutes of work for a total cost of about $200 (for a Bosch battery).
By the way, I didn't have to change the auxiliary battery.
Regarding the Mercedes instructions, I got the info from a friend that is a car mechanic and he looked up my car in his service computer.
Thanks for the feedback and ideas! Do you think the aux battery holds power to the ECU hence no need for trickle charger? Even so I would use the trickle charger as a safeguard since it is very little additional effort.
I just googled and the aux battery acts as a backup for the main battery (as you say). But if the aux battery is dead you will have noticed early problems (starting) because of it, so I would say the consequence is that if you haven't had any problem starting/driving, the aux battery is working and you can change the main battery without a charger.
"Usually when voltage converter fails, you will see flashing on-board computer error fault message with the following quote "auxiliary battery malfunction" or "stop vehicle shift to P leave engine running" warning message".
Good stuff, I wouldn’t say it’s an overkill with the plastic bag over the cable… if anything it shows that you care about the job at hand and are aware 👍🏼 we are thinking of buying the 250 (4cyl) and this is handy because it will be our first merc and I do all the servicing on our car so I appreciate your input and vids
Keep up the good work
Cheers from down under 🇦🇺👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😊😊🇦🇺🇦🇺
Was wondering why mine stopped going off. Started a year after I got it!
Hello. Was your check engine light on when and where you getting a message on the dash stating “turn engine off and leave car running?
Not in my case. My only symptom was the start/stop engine feature did not work.
Thank you for this video, it helped me swap out my 2016 GLC 300W battery!
Thank you for This video, it helped me swap out My Mercedes Benz GLC 220d 2018.! 🇨🇱
the battery charger i have has 2 settings on it, one is quick charge, the other is normal charge and the last one is trickle charge, its from harbor fright, so do i put it on the trickle charge setting when changing the battery like you did?
Very helpful - that battery looks heavy.
Great idea using the trickle chsrger so you wont loose tjr memory.
I have a similar issue. at stop engine ON/OFF is not working also a check engine P2610 code. They told me to change the main battery. Do you think that is a right diagnosis?
How old is your battery? Was the car sitting for a while? If so charge the battery and reset the code. A quick review of P2610 indicates it can be several issues one of which is the battery and/or aux battery. If the battery is 4 years old or has had a hard life then it is close to end of life anyway. Please keep us posted as I’m very curious.
I was doing whatever u r saying and at the end my new battery was in the trunk 🤣
I replace my battery and it fixed the problem
Excellent! Thanks for the feedback!
@@edshandymantips4862 it’s funny but the car runs much better with the new battery.
It responds quicker / accelerates faster / headlights are brighter
Do you plug in the trickle charger before you take of the negative terminal?
Yes - before you disconnect the battery.
What setting do you have the battery charger at when you hook it up to the car
The trickle charger I used was 12v, 750ma. I believe they are $10 at harbor freight. This held the ecu settings for me but would not power the rear trunk lid with the battery removed.
I have a battery charger that has 3 different settings, fast charge, normal charge, and trickle charge, so I guess that I switch it to the trickle charge setting
Glad I didn't first take the dash apart. I will replace my 4 year old battery first.
Decent Batt for these cars is now about 350 ish dollars. 250 low end, 400 higher end. YOWWWWWW
TKS for video sir. What ampers is need to be the new battery ?
Thanks for watching. I put in a highly rated NAPA Legend battery specified for the car. It has 920 cranking amps, 800 cold cranking amps, and is rated at 80AH.
Do you need do battery registration ?
Thank you for bringing this to my attention. There are many ambiguous posts on the Mercedes forums as to whether battery registration is required on this model. I found a post that included an actual Mercedes service bulletin that said registration is required. Apparently (not in the bulletin) the ecu tracks the number of cycles on the battery and charges older batteries more aggressively than newer ones. They say if the counter is not reset it will shorten the life of the new battery. The ODB2 scanner I have will not perform this function. I read the Foxwell NT530 scanner will work. Give me a few days to order one and give it a try and let you know the results.
@@edshandymantips4862 Just started receiving "Stop Vehicle - Leave Engine Running" warning on my 2018 GLC300. I would REALLY appreciate if you did a video on the reset procedure!
I had success registering the new battery with a Foxwell NT530 OBD scanner tool. Here is a link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/NRH6_JTGm2M/v-deo.html
Awesome thank you!
I just left the auto shop and got a new battery but the auto stop is still not working.. I was told that was the problem but not working.. they claim they did a diagnostic test
Sorry to hear. Many factors need to be fulfilled for the auto start/stop to work including a fully charged battery. Perhaps the new battery is not fully charged? Drive a few hours to charge battery to see if this is the cause. Other things like:
the indicator lamp in the ECO button is lit
green
the outside temperature and the atmospheric air pressure is within the range that is suitable for the system
the engine is at normal operating temperature
the set temperature for the vehicle interior
has been reached
the system detects that the windshield is not fogged up when the air-conditioning system is switched on
the hood is closed
the driver's door is closed and the driver's
seat belt is fastened
Another common cause is a defective auxiliary battery, however, you normally get a dash warning or OBD code.
Not related but make sure the shop registered the new battery with the ecu.
Hope this helps.
Rich people think you get what you pay for. I can do all that in a 2002 Toyota without doing all that, oh 245000 miles and counting, intelligent stupid German engineering at it again.
Don't ever compare that Crap Toyota/Lexus to Mercedes in any way...from Dessign, agility structural undercarriage handling robust etc. Only in north America fools buy Toyota for the price of Mercedes...not even in Japan. In Japanthe the elites drives Mercedes not Toyota brand
Play video in 1.5