Back in the olden days, lol, when OBD was introduced, my Snap On battery tender was an OBD connection with a 9 volt transistor battery. As with any power supply you need to make sure the battery is good. Modules were operating with 5 volt reference so the 9 volt battery kept the memory. Another supply I have was through the cigarette lighter which was 12 volt live. Today’s cars have 12 v ports , slightly different size from the cigarette lighter port and most often fused or ignition controlled which makes it a less efficient way of saving the memory of devices.
Another option would be to connect a 12v source through one of your 12v outlet receptacles. You just need to make sure it is always powered and not switch through the accessory position on the ignition switch.
That’s correct, you can use the cigarette lighter or any 12v car outlet to connect a 12 volt power supply. However, as you mentioned, this will only work if it is always powered on, and most aren’t. Because this is different depending on the type and brand of vehicle, you need to test this first if you want to go down that road.
No, the only safe way to disconnect your car battery without losing your settings is to hook your cars’ battery cables or OBDII-port to a battery charger with a dedicated 12 volt “supply mode” or to a secondary 12 volt battery before disconnecting your car battery. This is because you need to use a stabilized 12V power supply, and intelligent trickle chargers or battery maintainers don’t charge/maintain with a constant 12V.
Yes, if you have a spare 12V battery laying around, you can hook it up to the car's battery cables with jumper cables for example, disconnect the old battery and install a new one. It's crucial though that the spare battery remains connected untill the new battery is hooked up to the battery cables.
No, the only safe way to disconnect your car battery without losing your settings is to hook your cars’ battery cables or OBDII-port to a battery charger with a dedicated 12 volt “supply mode” or to a secondary 12 volt battery before disconnecting your car battery.
I wish it was that easy. But no, the clip will snap off when you move the terminals, assuming you can with the connectors attached. THe terminals don't have much play. And you can tell from the pic the clips/jumper were added AFTER the battery cables were removed.
As clearly shown in our video, the CTEK clamps didn’t snap off when moving the connectors, even with our positive battery cable only having barely enough play to move to the side. As long as you use a quality power supply with decent clamps and you’re careful when disconnecting the battery cables, you’ll be fine. As for the thumbnail of our video: the picture was taken during the making of the video, but from a different angle. When you watch our video closely, you can see that we showed every step from start to finish and added the clamps before the battery cables were removed, not after.
I don't care what they say to your response, you are correct, it's never that easy. Super common for the supply clamps to disconnect for just a second while you are moving things about, like changing the battery, or tightening/loosening cables. It NEVER works like it's nothing. So easy to short something out with bulky clamps and most often very little space. Also, all that stuff is right in the way when cleaning up between batteries. One million times better to buy a $20 OBD2 tool, with a spare battery because you are not even close to your working area. It 'may' work if your a pro, and have all kinds of space around the battery, but for the average joe, very misleading.
The reason why we recommend using a 12V power supply hooked directly to the battery cables is because the power runs through the fuse box, meaning all your cars’ sensitive components are protected from power surges and overload. Although we don’t recommend any specific product, we did link to the professional 12V charger and power supply we used in the video because we know it works great, but you can use any stabilized 12V power supply to do this of course.
I think that OBD-based power supplies can fail or jack up the vehicle’s electronics. Connecting a 12.6 V power supply directly to the cables that attach to the battery is fail safe.
? Just connect, another 12 volt battery , to the cables, with clips. Then, remove the bolts, holding the cables, to the Car Battery. (Replace car battery - then reverse the process ....) This will ENSURE....no loss of power, to the ' settings ' you describe, herein. Does not require, the OBD device. Alot cheaper....as well. / Oh, another item of Interest : WHEN BOOSTING modern ' vehicles '......CONNECT THE NEGATIVE CLIP, TO THE ENGINE BLOCK , OF THE vehicle, to be started. IF you connect it, to the Neg battery terminal - the computer will screw up. Sensors, on the Neg lead side, to where ever its' ' grounded ''. Clipping the Neg to the block - bypasses those ' sensors '.......Red to Positive, no changes here. // GOOD LUCK....to all dealing with ' over teched '' modern rolling piles of plastic / computer stuff / ....endless $$$$ pits. I will keep my 96 Intrepid.....324,000 and still going strong....beat that, kia and hyundai junk.....dodges and rams.....chevies and fords....junk.
That’s correct, you can use any 12 volt battery or stabilized 12 volt power supply to do this. As for the jumpstarting: you should always connect the negative cable to the engine block or an exposed metal part as far away from the battery as possible to avoid creating sparks that could ignite the highly explosive hydrogen gas emitted by the chemical reactions in the car battery, which we explained in a separate video about how to jump start a car. Thanks for sharing your experience, greatly appreciated!
Don't do this. Once a year you should disconnect your battery anyway for a half hour to reset the ECM and to clear out bugs & reset things, When you change your battery use that opportunity to clear your system
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Back in the olden days, lol, when OBD was introduced, my Snap On battery tender was an OBD connection with a 9 volt transistor battery. As with any power supply you need to make sure the battery is good. Modules were operating with 5 volt reference so the 9 volt battery kept the memory. Another supply I have was through the cigarette lighter which was 12 volt live. Today’s cars have 12 v ports , slightly different size from the cigarette lighter port and most often fused or ignition controlled which makes it a less efficient way of saving the memory of devices.
Thanks for sharing your experience, greatly appreciated!
Thank you, this is very useful tips to save the settings while changing the battery
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
how bout using a portable lithium, battery jump starter. will that work?
Another option would be to connect a 12v source through one of your 12v outlet receptacles. You just need to make sure it is always powered and not switch through the accessory position on the ignition switch.
That’s correct, you can use the cigarette lighter or any 12v car outlet to connect a 12 volt power supply. However, as you mentioned, this will only work if it is always powered on, and most aren’t. Because this is different depending on the type and brand of vehicle, you need to test this first if you want to go down that road.
OK (with care !) if got space around battery and decent length on car cables.
Straight to the point. Thank you
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Can a battery maintainer or trickle charger be used as an external power source? Thanks for the video!
No
No, the only safe way to disconnect your car battery without losing your settings is to hook your cars’ battery cables or OBDII-port to a battery charger with a dedicated 12 volt “supply mode” or to a secondary 12 volt battery before disconnecting your car battery. This is because you need to use a stabilized 12V power supply, and intelligent trickle chargers or battery maintainers don’t charge/maintain with a constant 12V.
@@classiccarmaintenance Thank you.
Can you just connect another 12V battery (e.g. a deep cycle RV battery) to the battery cables?
Yes, if you have a spare 12V battery laying around, you can hook it up to the car's battery cables with jumper cables for example, disconnect the old battery and install a new one. It's crucial though that the spare battery remains connected untill the new battery is hooked up to the battery cables.
@@classiccarmaintenance awesome, thanks. It worked out well.
Will a regular battery tinder work to hold settings?
No, the only safe way to disconnect your car battery without losing your settings is to hook your cars’ battery cables or OBDII-port to a battery charger with a dedicated 12 volt “supply mode” or to a secondary 12 volt battery before disconnecting your car battery.
@@classiccarmaintenance your awesome, thank you for your wisdom.
If at stage of replacing battery, probably already been flat - so settings been lost anyway.
Where can I pickup a 12 volt power supply as you have shown in this video?
We've put a link to the 12V power supply we've used in the description under the video so you can easily find it.
A less expensive option is the NOCO Genius 10. I purchased this device from Amazon on sale for $99.
I wish it was that easy. But no, the clip will snap off when you move the terminals, assuming you can with the connectors attached. THe terminals don't have much play. And you can tell from the pic the clips/jumper were added AFTER the battery cables were removed.
As clearly shown in our video, the CTEK clamps didn’t snap off when moving the connectors, even with our positive battery cable only having barely enough play to move to the side. As long as you use a quality power supply with decent clamps and you’re careful when disconnecting the battery cables, you’ll be fine.
As for the thumbnail of our video: the picture was taken during the making of the video, but from a different angle. When you watch our video closely, you can see that we showed every step from start to finish and added the clamps before the battery cables were removed, not after.
I don't care what they say to your response, you are correct, it's never that easy. Super common for the supply clamps to disconnect for just a second while you are moving things about, like changing the battery, or tightening/loosening cables. It NEVER works like it's nothing. So easy to short something out with bulky clamps and most often very little space. Also, all that stuff is right in the way when cleaning up between batteries. One million times better to buy a $20 OBD2 tool, with a spare battery because you are not even close to your working area. It 'may' work if your a pro, and have all kinds of space around the battery, but for the average joe, very misleading.
So the first options costs less than $15, but your recommended option costs over $300! What's with that?
The reason why we recommend using a 12V power supply hooked directly to the battery cables is because the power runs through the fuse box, meaning all your cars’ sensitive components are protected from power surges and overload. Although we don’t recommend any specific product, we did link to the professional 12V charger and power supply we used in the video because we know it works great, but you can use any stabilized 12V power supply to do this of course.
I think that OBD-based power supplies can fail or jack up the vehicle’s electronics. Connecting a 12.6 V power supply directly to the cables that attach to the battery is fail safe.
Trickle charger….
? Just connect, another 12 volt battery , to the cables, with clips. Then, remove the bolts, holding the cables, to the Car Battery. (Replace car battery - then reverse the process ....) This will ENSURE....no loss of power, to the ' settings ' you describe, herein. Does not require, the OBD device. Alot cheaper....as well. / Oh, another item of Interest : WHEN BOOSTING modern ' vehicles '......CONNECT THE NEGATIVE CLIP, TO THE ENGINE BLOCK , OF THE vehicle, to be started. IF you connect it, to the Neg battery terminal - the computer will screw up. Sensors, on the Neg lead side, to where ever its' ' grounded ''. Clipping the Neg to the block - bypasses those ' sensors '.......Red to Positive, no changes here. // GOOD LUCK....to all dealing with ' over teched '' modern rolling piles of plastic / computer stuff / ....endless $$$$ pits. I will keep my 96 Intrepid.....324,000 and still going strong....beat that, kia and hyundai junk.....dodges and rams.....chevies and fords....junk.
That’s correct, you can use any 12 volt battery or stabilized 12 volt power supply to do this.
As for the jumpstarting: you should always connect the negative cable to the engine block or an exposed metal part as far away from the battery as possible to avoid creating sparks that could ignite the highly explosive hydrogen gas emitted by the chemical reactions in the car battery, which we explained in a separate video about how to jump start a car. Thanks for sharing your experience, greatly appreciated!
Don't do this. Once a year you should disconnect your battery anyway for a half hour to reset the ECM and to clear out bugs & reset things, When you change your battery use that opportunity to clear your system
No. Doing that will mean you needing to re program it on many new cars now.
@Golfr2020 Not for every car but most cars you can just disconnect then reconnect and drive..