73 TC125 Suzuki Free a seized piston
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2021
- This is the first video of the 73 TC125 Suzuki restoration. In this video we do a first look at the bike, and remove the engine from the frame. We talk about how we are going to remove the seized piston and we getter done. To do the piston removal, we build a puller to free it. The puller is made from 1/4 inch plate and is attached at the head bolts and a driver is located in the middle to push the piston downward. (warning) if you try this proceedure, be careful that you dont over tighten to the point that you pull the studs from the cases.
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You are tenacious Dale! LOL. That was one tough nut!
Yes it was, I needed to save the cylinder.
Skill and tenacity! I really enjoy your videos, Dale. Every one a learning experience.
Thanks Peter, glad to see your trying to catch up on my channel. I sure appreciate you taking the time to do so.
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I’m actually trying to free up an old Suzuki outboard engine. Same technique should apply, overall… Hopefully, I’ll win before I get to this point. Fingers crossed. Again, much appreciated.
Thank you, yes, I hope you are successful without going to the extreme I had to. But If you have to it works.
Excellent video Dale, keep um coming and thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jeff, more to come.
Excellent,thoroughly enjoyed it, top job mate 👍
Thank you Pat, I was beginning to think it wouldn't work. Thanks for your comment and for watchin
Another great video and wonderfully creative solution!
Thanks Jim, didnt think it was going to work.
I am so glad I stumbled onto this old video Dale. I am planning to use this technique on my Dad's old outboard motor I have that's seized. It has been percolating in Tri Flow penetrating oil for several days. When I get back home tomorrow from the Veteran's Day Parade ( I'll be parading with the ex and the kids for their Jiu Jitsu gym), I expect to find the pistons will still be seized in the cylinders. I'll pull the head, match drill holes for mounting a 1/2" steel plate to the motor, and drill and tap 2 holes, 1/2-30, for putting equal pressure on each of the pistons. Even if they don't immediately come free, I can torque the bolts down, and keep pressure on them while penetrating oil continue to work on it.
Sounds like a plan Johnnie, it worked good for me, this one was stuck good.
Hi, Dale/Kevin, great to see the best of the best working together, should make for some very informative videos.
Thanks Frank, it was fun and enjoyable working with Kevin
Excellent Idea and Great Job Brother!!
Thanks Philip, that one was sure in there tight.
Excellent Dale, you used just enough force to remove that pesky piston. I admire your resilience and perseverance well done. Hopefully the cylinder will clean up after honing.
Thank you, I appreciate that. I just took the cylinder out of the metal rescue and it looks really good. Doesn't seem to be much pitting. Hoping the hone will be good enough. But we will measure for sure. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
Just found the channel, I really like the content and have subscribed. I have a channel, which is fairly new. I'm doing a BSA D7 at the moment. I've worked on mostly larger Japanese and Italian bikes in the past.
Great job with the piston forcing rig, it worked really well. I use a graphited penetrating oil, it seems to get in better than other types I've tried. I also have a very powerful heat gun, I used both to free up a small Garelli engine a few years ago. Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire, UK.
Hey thanks for the comment Dean, I will keep that in mind about the graphite oil. Man I learn so much from the folks out there around the world. There are many ways to skin the cat. I just try till something works. I will be checking out your channel, thanks so much for taking a look at mine.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks very much. I'm just starting out so nowhere near the quality of content you have. That oil I use is called Tygris Graphite. I'm sure you could get similar in the States. Whereabouts are you based Dale? I lived in Texas and Washington State when I was over there. Best wishes, Dean.
Hi Dean, I'm based out of Great Falls Montana. Your welcome. I'm a newbie too. November will be a year. Believe me it is slow going, you just have to get content out there. Best of luck and keep in contact.
Tough cylinder Dale. Nice shop man
Hi Larry, yeah, I didnt think it was going to move. Thought Caustic soda was my next move. She finally gave it up. Thanks for watchin.
Great video.
Thanks Jim, appreciate you hanging out in the shop with me.
I got the same issue with a XJ650 4 banger. Excited to see how I will get the head off 😅 thanks for showing how you did it to your bike.
Every one is different, hope you dont have as much trouble as I did. This one was a real bear. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Thank you sir i would never have thought of using a plate like you have. I have a xl185 that seized. I may use your idea.
I had never tried this before, I soaked and tapped on it but was getting nowhere. In the end this worked great and saved the cylinder to run again even without a rebore.
Great job! Like a Pro.!
Thank you Ruben, that was a tough one for sure. Thanks for following the channel.
great job kool tool i could use one of them great idear
Thanks Kevin. It was a tight mo-fo but it finally gave it up. Thanks for the heads up on those studs. I think the key is to make sure all the bolts are tightened equally, so it pulls on all four studs at the same time. Thanks brother.
@@montana2strokeracer yes equally tight
Can’t wait to see that engine split.
Working on it right now, hoping it will be up tonight. Thanks for the comment and for watchin.
Both of my new to me matching Yamaha AT1c's are locked up with only 2700 miles on each bike - some people should not own bikes! Clutch packs seized up as well so I will remove and see if I can get some movement with pistons or might have to resort to pulling cylinders which I really need to do anyway to inspect bores on these bikes. It did occur to me that perhaps I can find a couple of 175 barrels/heads and step those engines up to 175's, apparently everything will work but will need longer con rod bearing. MM oil has been in the pots for about three weeks. My next move might be to heat up some mmo and add via plug hole, perhaps heat up the cylinder walls with a torch and proceed lightly.
Hey James, yes, I would soak in some penetrating oil of some sort for a while. This was the last result after lots of soaking and heating. Think this one soaked for 3 months by the owner before I got it. This one was really stuck. Yes, you can easily change to 175 parts. But with the AT-1 being electric start you most likely will not be able to use the electric start. It just doesn't have the power to turn over the larger cylinder and piston. You might consider finding a 175 magneto if by chance you have to dive deep into the engine. You will have to go to a 175 crankshaft if you use the 175 magnetos though. Thanks for watching.
@@montana2strokeracer , thank you sir!
Try some MAP gas with a torch. That's worked for me on several occasions to free a stuck piston.
Thanks for the tip Greg, I do use a torch to remove frozen bolts. I will keep it in mind for the next time. (hope there is not another like this one) Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
Dale thanks for the excellent video. I have a somewhat related question, I have a 1980 KE125 that runs good for about 15 minutes then starts backfiring and finally dies until it cools down, then it will run again. Tried testing the ignition coil with multimeter. It tests about 2.5 ohms across primary winding, but I get no reading testing the secondary via the spark plug lead and ground. It seems maybe I'm testing wrong as I wouldn't think it would run at all with no secondary continuity. Trying to hold off on buying new coil until sure this one is bad as they are of course hard to find. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks Jeff
Oops, mean't to post this on the video you did on fixing the coil.
Hi Jeff, your checking correct, your primary wire to ground at 2.5 should be pretty close. But an open condition between secondary (plug wire) and ground is not acceptable. Not sure what your reading should be, my guess is 17 - 20 ohms. But open is no good. Dont have any Kawasaki books for that bike. Kevin Bergeron is the man for anything Kawasaki. I think he has an in depth video on checking coils if I remember right. Hope I've been some help at least. Thanks for watchin.
Let's hope gearbox look better 😊
It was just fine, only the cylinder and crankshaft were in bad shape. Thanks for watchin.
Yes that was stuck hard Peace out
I saw the finished product, which was beautiful, watching in reverse order. The bike has the original tires on it, can't have too many miles, but had a rough life. Tail light looks very Honda-ish, but most the parts are there. What part of Montana are you in? I bought out most of the NOS Suzuki parts stock from a dealer in Bozman years ago.
This was a fun restoration I did for a man in Dallas Tx. Yes, the taillight was not correct and was replaced by the correct one. This bike had a fun story about it. Seems the man bought it as a boy brand new, then when he was older sold it. Then he got to thinking about it and went searching to get it back. He found it and had been watching my videos, then contacted me to restore it. When he picked it up, he took it to Glacier National Park and rode it there, then took it to Sturgis S.D. and rode it there. He really is happy with how it turned out and sent me a picture of it in his garage a few months back. I am in Great Falls, we are a couple hours from Bozeman on the east side of the Rockies.
Dale, where can I find over bore pistons for my 79’ Suzuki ts100?
I am not sure of the availability of those for that bike. Start with Partszilla.com and look up you part number, if they don't have it, then check eBay with that part number and see if any are out there. That is how I start a search like that. Thanks for stopping by the channel.
My motorcycle engine seized while riding (kawasaki gpz 500s 1991). Do you think I can save the engine without replacing any part? I was going around 23 mph and I don't think it did great damage. And how can I get the engine free?
You will have to find out what seized, was it the piston, crank, or transmission. This video was pretty extreme, but it got the job done. This one was water and rust, not lack of lubrication or to lean. I will tell you that most can be taken apart and sanded if the piston and reassembled and ran. But there again it depends a lot on the damage.
Well that is going to be a big job
It was a chore for sure
Now, imagine you have a GT750 triple with one piece barrel and three stuck pistons.
Ah, a real challenge!
would your standing press work to break the rust seal?
I'm sure you could, but holding the engine would be a nightmare. Just less overall control I think. Thanks for your comment and for watchin Frank.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks for the personal rely, i now you and Kevin are very busy and cant always respond to your fans. i personally will only ask questions here and there.
Frank, I dont mind the questions or comments. I read them all and try to answer them all. I'm sure Kevin is the same way. Thanks for yours.
Hello Dale I just got myself a 1976 tc125, it's in great condition with all the original parts. It starts and runs with low miles. I have a few questions about carburetor tuning and was hoping I could reach out to you and get some answers. How can I get in contact with you outside of UA-cam?
Hi Tyler, youtube will not allow a phone number or email in the comments section. If you will look in the "about" section of my channel in youtube you will see a link "for business inquiries " click it, that's my email. Sorry they just dont make it easy. Try that if you cant find it drop me another conment.
@@montana2strokeracer Hello Dale, I looked in your "About" section and I'm still unable to locate your email...
@@tylerhankins3299 Tyler, I just looked, it is there. It says for business inquiries view email. Click on it.
@@montana2strokeracer Hi Dale I found it and I already sent you an email hope you got it.
Might be easier if you used a real hammer or mini sledge.
Yes sir, Im sure it would, at this point I didnt know the condition of the lower end. Wanted to save as much as possible. So I was thinking slow and methodical...But yes you are correct a bigger hammer would have got it done quicker.