Finally someone tells us to set point gap first. None of my manuals say this and even confuse you with unnecessary/irrelevant info. I figured it out but having a pro concur helps me to be sure. Thank You. ps I think a light setup translates to video better than a buzzer😅
Thanks Kevin, yes, the light is good too, I like using the buzzer, so I don't have to take my eye off the adjustment I am making. I do usually use a light on 12-volt systems. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
When you get into rebuilding old Harleys, put me first on the customer list. I just Love the way they look and I know it would be a too notch bike after you went through it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks brother, sorry just not a harley guy, could be I could find you a two stroke harley from the AMF days, hows a 100 cc Baja. I always thought they were cool.
@@montana2strokeracer nope. I remember seeing a old Harley two stroke there in Great Falls back when I was there. I guess they are fairly hard to come by.
Good evening Dale, I hope all is well in your neck of the woods. I'm taking life slow enjoying 1 day at time. It won't be long before the 1st start video. (Happy trails to you)
Hey Larry everything is great here, making some videos and enjoying retirement. Yeah its coming along, got a lot of electrical stuff to do, get the engine in the frame and paint yet. Waiting on warmer weather for the painting part. Glad to have you going along on the ride.
Hey Dean, thanks for the kind words, yes I have several flywheel centers that I have made over the years, they really make things easy, since my old eyes dont see as good as they once did. I enjoy making different tools that make the job easier. Just part of the fun, dont you know. Thanks for going along on the ride Dean.
I did the same thing with the center of a flywheel on a DT250. I caught hell from the experts saying that it wouldn't be accurate. I figured it was pretty close and then I check it with the flywheel afterwards and make what are hopefully minor adjustments.
Hey Jack, yes the "experts" they will tell you a lot, but they never show you anything. I just do the best I can, its not easy doing videos, and we are all human, we make mistakes, if the experts would make videos, they too, would make mistakes. My point is...just do the best you can and have fun. The majority of the viewers are very nice and offer a lot of great ideas, I just enjoy this part....interacting with the viewers. You do offer a lot of good info to help them with their motorcycle problems or just entertainment, I watch quite a few creators on youtube just for that....entertainment. Its great to see how others do things and solve problems, it keeps my old mind working....you know what i mean. I have several flywheel centers for different bikes and have used them for over 40 years, as long as they are fitted correctly and secured, they work perfect. Don't let the "experts" poop on your parade. Just keep up the good work.
Thanks Mark, I have a lot to do yet, and more bikes waiting in the wings. Dont see a shortage of things to do. Glad to have you going along on the ride.
You mentioned 35 mm points gap !. That's huge. Assume that you mean 0.35 mm. Glad to see you are human Dale and can have some mistakes, minor that it may be. Dale it looks as if you set to maximum piston height where the piston stops on the compression stroke rather than using true TDC. True TDC as I understand it is the crank angle at the point the piston stops rising on compression to the crank angle when the piston starts to fall on the power stroke. The mid point between the two crank angles being true TDC. I assume the differences between compression TDC and true TDC is too minor to worry about. Great work as usual Dale you never cease to amaze me with your video's
Great video. I have a 1975 TC125. Looking to verify whether there should be anything additional to a regular nut holding against the fiber washer on the high/low shifter linkage. The parts break down shows the washer/needle bearing/spacer "stack", but I don't see the detail for the hardware that holds it on the shaft. Thanks! Ric
Oh good, I was going to say, I know I broke all that down in the side case video, but I am not aware of a fiber washer in there. Let me know if you have questions I didn't cover. Thanks for stopping by Rich.
Dale, i have essentially the same motor(75 TC 125) that I'm setting the timing on with your same setup (dial indicator, buzz box, etc.) When connected to the same wires, the buzzer never stops buzzing when the points open. I had to disconnect the condenser wire to make it work. How come you didn't?
Dale, I tried to rebuild my stator like in your video, I had some success and obtain some light spark, had it running with staring fluid for few seconds, after it quit could not get it running again. I'm 77 and just had rotator cuff surgery, getting kind of hard to kick start anymore, so I thought maybe a electronic ignition would be the way to go. I found one video that may help 'Suzuki duster TS125 contactless ignition 12 volt conversion' his lighting is bad and he just rambled sometimes, hard to understand, unlike your videos. that's why I was hoping you could make a video of converting a points system to electronic on my 1972 TC125 street and trail. Sorry for my typing, using left hand bc of surgery. thanks
Hi Douglas, these bikes start very easy when everything is adjusted correctly. The stator windings never go bad, the only thing that can mess them up is being damaged somehow. If your points are clean and gapped right. Then you may have a bad condenser, or maybe a coil, or bad wiring between the engine and coil. I have no reason to convert one to 12 volts, it is costly and time consuming to convert them. Right now, I don't have a TS125 to work on. I have not pursued looking into changing one to CDI at this point either. If I was to do it, I think the first thing I would look for is later model TS125 that already uses CDI to get the components off of to use on the older model. Maybe they offer a kit to change one over I just don't know at this point. The kits I have looked at for other models are very expensive, at 500 to 1000 dollars, that is just not in my budget. The CDI that I used on the Yamaha 125 mx, came from a Yamaha 360 mx, all I needed to do was make a stator plate and sourced a rotor from a later model YZ125. You just have to be resourceful and try to put some junk together sometimes. If I run into a chance to get some later model parts at a good price, I have a junk engine back in the shed, I will see if I can get it done. But I just have to wait for the right opportunity.
thanks Dale@@montana2strokeracer I'll try again, too cold now, letting shoulder heel up, going to replace points and condenser, learned alot from your videos. I took center from old fly wheel to set points, going to get bike up in position where it easier to work on
Hello Dale this is a dumb question in a way but I have one of those Buzz boxes that your using and It didn't come with any instructions yes I know it's pretty straightforward on how to use it but my question is in the advertisement it says you can switch from the auditable tone to the light but mine when you slide the switch down both the red led and buzzer sound and stop when the test leads are connected. also they failed to mention the handy little built in flashlight in the top left corner my question is can you switch yours from light to tone. Just wondering if mine is working correctly again thanks
No sir, I'm in the same boat as you. I had one of these for years and it gave up the ghost, it worked as designed although it didn't have the handy flashlight, that I never use. One thing about it though.....that buzzer is sure loud.
Hey Doug, no I don't for a Suzuki tc125. I have changed a Yamaha AT1 to 360 Yamaha CDI, and I did change a YL1 Yamaha twin jet 100 to pointless ignition. Have the parts to change the Suzuki TC/TS125 to RM ignition, will try to get to that at some point.
Yeah good luck with that. I have never seen a spec for them. Yamaha does not list them either, so you just have to wing it. The general spec for a 10 mm bolt and a 17 mm hex nut is 25-30 FT LBs. Since the flywheel is a taper on a tapered crankshaft, I error on the low side. I torque mine to 25 Ft Lbs or 300 inch lbs. Have never had any problems with that spec it has always treated me right.
Question for you. My 74 TC125 and 75 TS125 have the spark plug in the other hole. Does that matter? I can't seem to find any info on the subject. As always great video. Watching it while looking at the timing on the TC125.
Greg it make no difference which hole you use, the easiest to get to is what I do. On the TC/TS 125 you have a low pipe so its not in the way. Thank you for following along.
@@montana2strokeracer K, good. Ha, your not off the hook yet though. This bike had spark and ran, but watching your recent video with the timing using the dial gauge and beeper. Well mine are beeping about a 1/4" from the left of the marks, so I'm guessing even though it ran, the points are off and need adjusted. Correct? You don't have to thank me for following. I enjoy all the stuff you do and watch all your video's.
@@gregslair4278 Sure thing Greg. Points need to be adjusted. Its probably not to far off though. You may consider filing the points before you adjust. Im glad you are finding some good info, or at least some entertainment from these old videos.
Who really knows, in this case it appears to be spot on. To be quite honest with you, I just use a feeler gauge most of the time. But that doesnt make as good of a video, does it. Thanks for going along for the ride Frank.
@@montana2strokeracer think im out of time with your videos, but better late than never. i enjoyed you timing explanation, think for the regular guys especially those who dont ride the classic bikes much the timing marks and the buzz box method would be good enough.
Probably...just using what I have. I have since found a metric dial indicator. Just hate spending a lot of dough. Thanks for hanging in the shop with me.
Great video. Makes setting points so much easier to understand! You mix a gauge AND buzz box. Thanks!!
Thanks Jim, yes this is my go to method, It is touchy though.
Finally someone tells us to set point gap first. None of my manuals say this and even confuse you with unnecessary/irrelevant info. I figured it out but having a pro concur helps me to be sure. Thank You. ps I think a light setup translates to video better than a buzzer😅
Thanks Kevin, yes, the light is good too, I like using the buzzer, so I don't have to take my eye off the adjustment I am making. I do usually use a light on 12-volt systems. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Dale these videos are fantastic. Among, if not the best out there.... thank you.
Thanks for the kind words Jeff, I am glad they are helping people and providing at least some entertainment.
When you get into rebuilding old Harleys, put me first on the customer list. I just Love the way they look and I know it would be a too notch bike after you went through it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks brother, sorry just not a harley guy, could be I could find you a two stroke harley from the AMF days, hows a 100 cc Baja. I always thought they were cool.
@@montana2strokeracer nope. I remember seeing a old Harley two stroke there in Great Falls back when I was there. I guess they are fairly hard to come by.
@@JustPlainCommonSense Yeah most of them ended up in the land fill. LOL
Good evening Dale, I hope all is well in your neck of the woods. I'm taking life slow enjoying 1 day at time. It won't be long before the 1st start video. (Happy trails to you)
Hey Larry everything is great here, making some videos and enjoying retirement. Yeah its coming along, got a lot of electrical stuff to do, get the engine in the frame and paint yet. Waiting on warmer weather for the painting part. Glad to have you going along on the ride.
Great video Dale, well explained. I like the tool made from a flywheel centre for easier points setting.
Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire, UK.
Hey Dean, thanks for the kind words, yes I have several flywheel centers that I have made over the years, they really make things easy, since my old eyes dont see as good as they once did. I enjoy making different tools that make the job easier. Just part of the fun, dont you know. Thanks for going along on the ride Dean.
I did the same thing with the center of a flywheel on a DT250. I caught hell from the experts saying that it wouldn't be accurate. I figured it was pretty close and then I check it with the flywheel afterwards and make what are hopefully minor adjustments.
Hey Jack, yes the "experts" they will tell you a lot, but they never show you anything. I just do the best I can, its not easy doing videos, and we are all human, we make mistakes, if the experts would make videos, they too, would make mistakes. My point is...just do the best you can and have fun. The majority of the viewers are very nice and offer a lot of great ideas, I just enjoy this part....interacting with the viewers. You do offer a lot of good info to help them with their motorcycle problems or just entertainment, I watch quite a few creators on youtube just for that....entertainment. Its great to see how others do things and solve problems, it keeps my old mind working....you know what i mean. I have several flywheel centers for different bikes and have used them for over 40 years, as long as they are fitted correctly and secured, they work perfect. Don't let the "experts" poop on your parade. Just keep up the good work.
great video again dale cant wait till next episode
Thanks Mark, I have a lot to do yet, and more bikes waiting in the wings. Dont see a shortage of things to do. Glad to have you going along on the ride.
You mentioned 35 mm points gap !. That's huge. Assume that you mean 0.35 mm. Glad to see you are human Dale and can have some mistakes, minor that it may be.
Dale it looks as if you set to maximum piston height where the piston stops on the compression stroke rather than using true TDC.
True TDC as I understand it is the crank angle at the point the piston stops rising on compression to the crank angle when the piston starts to fall on the power stroke. The mid point between the two crank angles being true TDC. I assume the differences between compression TDC and true TDC is too minor to worry about.
Great work as usual Dale you never cease to amaze me with your video's
I'm an inch guy. Do what ever floats your boat.
Great demo Dale!
Thanks Taylor, appreciate you following along.
Thanks for sharing brother. I would like to see you do one with a timing chain
Oh man...a four stroke???
@@montana2strokeracer yep.
Great video. I have a 1975 TC125. Looking to verify whether there should be anything additional to a regular nut holding against the fiber washer on the high/low shifter linkage. The parts break down shows the washer/needle bearing/spacer "stack", but I don't see the detail for the hardware that holds it on the shaft. Thanks! Ric
I found your other video. Thanks!
Oh good, I was going to say, I know I broke all that down in the side case video, but I am not aware of a fiber washer in there. Let me know if you have questions I didn't cover. Thanks for stopping by Rich.
Dale, i have essentially the same motor(75 TC 125) that I'm setting the timing on with your same setup (dial indicator, buzz box, etc.) When connected to the same wires, the buzzer never stops buzzing when the points open. I had to disconnect the condenser wire to make it work. How come you didn't?
Sounds like you may have a wire or other connection problem. Did you try disconnecting from the switch. It may be in the wiring or switch.
Dale, I tried to rebuild my stator like in your video, I had some success and obtain some light spark, had it running with staring fluid for few seconds, after it quit could not get it running again. I'm 77 and just had rotator cuff surgery, getting kind of hard to kick start anymore, so I thought maybe a electronic ignition would be the way to go. I found one video that may help 'Suzuki duster TS125 contactless ignition 12 volt conversion' his lighting is bad and he just rambled sometimes, hard to understand, unlike your videos. that's why I was hoping you could make a video of converting a points system to electronic on my 1972 TC125 street and trail. Sorry for my typing, using left hand bc of surgery. thanks
Hi Douglas, these bikes start very easy when everything is adjusted correctly. The stator windings never go bad, the only thing that can mess them up is being damaged somehow. If your points are clean and gapped right. Then you may have a bad condenser, or maybe a coil, or bad wiring between the engine and coil.
I have no reason to convert one to 12 volts, it is costly and time consuming to convert them. Right now, I don't have a TS125 to work on. I have not pursued looking into changing one to CDI at this point either. If I was to do it, I think the first thing I would look for is later model TS125 that already uses CDI to get the components off of to use on the older model. Maybe they offer a kit to change one over I just don't know at this point. The kits I have looked at for other models are very expensive, at 500 to 1000 dollars, that is just not in my budget. The CDI that I used on the Yamaha 125 mx, came from a Yamaha 360 mx, all I needed to do was make a stator plate and sourced a rotor from a later model YZ125. You just have to be resourceful and try to put some junk together sometimes. If I run into a chance to get some later model parts at a good price, I have a junk engine back in the shed, I will see if I can get it done. But I just have to wait for the right opportunity.
thanks Dale@@montana2strokeracer I'll try again, too cold now, letting shoulder heel up, going to replace points and condenser, learned alot from your videos. I took center from old fly wheel to set points, going to get bike up in position where it easier to work on
Hello Dale this is a dumb question in a way but I have one of those Buzz boxes that your using and It didn't come with any instructions yes I know it's pretty straightforward on how to use it but my question is in the advertisement it says you can switch from the auditable tone to the light but mine when you slide the switch down both the red led and buzzer sound and stop when the test leads are connected. also they failed to mention the handy little built in flashlight in the top left corner my question is can you switch yours from light to tone. Just wondering if mine is working correctly again thanks
No sir, I'm in the same boat as you. I had one of these for years and it gave up the ghost, it worked as designed although it didn't have the handy flashlight, that I never use. One thing about it though.....that buzzer is sure loud.
Thanks
Dale do you have video on converting points system to electronic
Hey Doug, no I don't for a Suzuki tc125. I have changed a Yamaha AT1 to 360 Yamaha CDI, and I did change a YL1 Yamaha twin jet 100 to pointless ignition. Have the parts to change the Suzuki TC/TS125 to RM ignition, will try to get to that at some point.
thanks@@montana2strokeracer
Maybe use a old fashioned timing light to the F mark on the flywheel
i need a stator plate with coils, for a 1972 Suzuki TC 125, do you know where i can fine one or at least the ignition coil ?
Hi Doug, you might try Ebay, or these guys bikeboneyard.com
thanks@@montana2strokeracer
What would the proper torque be for the magneto nut? I couldn't find anything on it in the manual.
Yeah good luck with that. I have never seen a spec for them. Yamaha does not list them either, so you just have to wing it. The general spec for a 10 mm bolt and a 17 mm hex nut is 25-30 FT LBs. Since the flywheel is a taper on a tapered crankshaft, I error on the low side. I torque mine to 25 Ft Lbs or 300 inch lbs. Have never had any problems with that spec it has always treated me right.
Question for you. My 74 TC125 and 75 TS125 have the spark plug in the other hole. Does that matter? I can't seem to find any info on the subject. As always great video. Watching it while looking at the timing on the TC125.
Greg it make no difference which hole you use, the easiest to get to is what I do. On the TC/TS 125 you have a low pipe so its not in the way. Thank you for following along.
@@montana2strokeracer K, good. Ha, your not off the hook yet though. This bike had spark and ran, but watching your recent video with the timing using the dial gauge and beeper. Well mine are beeping about a 1/4" from the left of the marks, so I'm guessing even though it ran, the points are off and need adjusted. Correct? You don't have to thank me for following. I enjoy all the stuff you do and watch all your video's.
@@gregslair4278 Sure thing Greg. Points need to be adjusted. Its probably not to far off though. You may consider filing the points before you adjust. Im glad you are finding some good info, or at least some entertainment from these old videos.
@@montana2strokeracer BOTH!!
how true are the fly wheel case marks or why wouldnt i just skip the dial guage and use the marks?
Who really knows, in this case it appears to be spot on. To be quite honest with you, I just use a feeler gauge most of the time. But that doesnt make as good of a video, does it. Thanks for going along for the ride Frank.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks Dale, i have watched several other channels, but your delievery is smooth and easy to listen to.IMHO
@@montana2strokeracer ever try the cellophane/cigarette paper on the point just opening? probably pretty close to the buzz box or light bulb method.
SUZUKI TSX 125ccengine broblems and Honda Shadow Honda Shadow 750cc
here i am Frank
There you are Frank....was going to send out the National Guard.
@@montana2strokeracer think im out of time with your videos, but better late than never. i enjoyed you timing explanation, think for the regular guys especially those who dont ride the classic bikes much the timing marks and the buzz box method would be good enough.
Well the most important thing when fiddling with JAPANESE engine / vehicle, one should ALWAYS USE METRIC.
Put away all those inches
Probably...just using what I have. I have since found a metric dial indicator. Just hate spending a lot of dough. Thanks for hanging in the shop with me.