I hope you find this video helpful and interesting. Take a look also at the tow bar install which can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/djAheyG2lfM/v-deo.html
Just watched video, great deal of info. I was particularly pleased to see a permanent live in rear of boot, negating the need to run to front of car. Just confirming, was this a Kuga. Ready to watch towbar install now. Why can't manufacturers just leave a dedicated trailer multi plug in rear, as some already do. Thanks for great video
Hi, James, really pleased you liked the video and found it useful. I try to cover every aspect when making a video, as it is frustrating if a video misses a crucial point in a process. Agreed it would be very easy for manufacturers to install dedicated socket in the boot. No it isn’t a Kuga it’s a Volvo xc60 so won’t be exactly the same as in power source. Although it’s a fair bet there is a permanent supply in boot of a Kuga somewhere. Otherwise besides the your permanent power source issue there rest should be the same. Hope this helps. 🙂👍
Good video - personal preference is I’m not a lover of scotch locks and connectors for permanence, far better to take the time to solder and heat shrink 😉👍
Really pleased to help. Hope you get it all sorted. Yes when checking each cable your negative (black) multimeter cable just needs grounding to a good clean earth point. It may help if you mechanically fix your black cable, to ensure you always have a good earth while you identify each cable.
Great video. I have a xc90 and someone had fitted this relay already and also there is a power source also in the rear fuse panel. I just wanted to see how it was installed while i tidy up the wiring as a previous owner had made a mess of the install.
Hi. Great video. Thank you. Im trying to identify my cables on the back plug but more than 1 has voltage, i have a volvo v40 and plugs look very similar to yours. Would the indicator fluctuate with voltage? Thabk you
Hi Stephen, if you mean the low voltage CANbus cables on you car then yes the indicators would fluctuate with the flashing sequence. You would then have individual low voltage supply to the side, stop and fog lights. You need to identify each individual supply before connecting to the correct bypass relay cable. You only need to connect to one side tail light supply except the indicator of course and possibly the fog light, which you would run cables across from the opposite side. Hope this helps. 👍🙂
Hi Chris, well I’ve had a sleep or two since the install, so I’ve just had to watch the video to refresh my memory. It is just the cable from the right rear fog lamp, I’m just showing the connection to the corresponding bypass relay cable which is blue and I happened to have some blue cable. The kit came with some cable but not enough. If you have a look at 1:55 it shows the bypass relay connections and colours and at 7:00 the connections to the fog lamp wire on the right rear. Hope this helps.
Hi! Another economic skillset. What can be done to the cigarette port in the car? A luxury from another economic era. Is it possible to power a phone are charge a battery, computer, or even trailers lights from this port and Porch??? Thanks for your Help and Ideas. Lifestyle.!!!
Hi Matt, I would check all of your connections making sure each terminal is in the correct position and secured correctly and not trapping the insulation rather then the core. Especially check your earth connections, are they correct and with a good connection. It’s possible it’s maybe earthing through the brake light circuit. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on and if I can help further. 😊👍
I would need your help please 🙏 I have a Golf MK7, I’ve fitted the towbar, I’ve routed the wiring of the towbar, I’ve stripped all the trim in the boot and exposed the car’s wiring harness, lights everything. Now I have a multimeter and back probes and unfortunately I have zero knowledge on how to trace the signals. Please advise what are the steps: multimeter set on 20V I see in your video, black multimeter lead to a clean ground and the positive to each pin, but then what do I look for ? I suppose I have to turn on and off fog light, turn signal etc and suppose I need to observe a certain variation on the multimeter, what is it that I need to look for ? I spent 4 hours tracing ‘something’ and I thought I’ve found the signal for each light to then realise that I have actually traced the 12V from each light, and not the signals. Please help. Thank you
Hi, well it sounds like you are on the right track, that is exactly what you need to do. Operate each light in turn. Ie say side lights first with all other lights off the terminal that shows a reading on the meter is the side light feed. Once identified mark the corresponding cable with some tape. You only need to identify the cables mainly to one rear lamp, use the one nearest your bypass relay. For the indicator, opposite side and possibly the fog you will need to run a cable from the other side. Once you’ve identified all the feeds you then connect each cable to the corresponding cable as show on the bypass relay diagram. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any further help. 🙂👍
Hi Ivelin, not sure what the issue might actually be if you have have connected the relay exactly as the instructions state. Try rechecking each individual connection if you haven’t already. It is possible you have faulty relay in which case you should contact your supplier. Sorry I’m not much more help, hope you get it sorted.
@@EverydayWorkshop thanks. But if i fault the relay, is it going to work at all? When i connect the ground sounds non stop, but all lights working as it should, just that freaking sounds don't want to stop...
As Alistair Wilcox set is better to solder and shrink, i think that could be a weak connection. I'll reconnect everything to my vehicle connectors and will solder and shrink them. If that not works, i'll contact supplier.
Hi, well it doesn’t have to be permanent. But it is a good idea, so that side lights and more importantly the hazard warning lights can still be operated without the ignition having to be turned on. Both of which can operated without the ignition on the towing vehicle. Hope this helps and thanks for your comment.
Should also make i clear that this is for a universal electric kit, and not a dedicated. I followed link from Pf jones about relays for my car, but does not mention a dedicated kit.
Hi Ian, I understand what you are saying although I think it is quite obviously a bypass relay kit for any vehicle. I don’t mention anywhere it is a dedicated kit for this vehicle. I’ll add something to the description though. Hope you found it useful. 🙂👍
good video, I have a problem with my caravan lights. When I plug into the car all the caravan lights come on. Stop and tail, fog, brakes, indicators. I substituted a trailer board and the same thing happened! Could this be a fault in the relay?
Hi Duncan, it could well be a relay fault but likely an earth issue. By that I mean it doesn’t have a very good earth so may run through the other lights to an earth turning them all on if that makes sense. So the first thing to check is all the earth connections, remove them, clean and re secure. I would also check all the other connections too. If you have a multimeter or test light check the earth is working. Connect to a good positive feed. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop Hello, Thankyou for your reply. I am pleased to say that I? ha ha! have fixed it. Went to the car this morning, plugged the trailer board in and everything lit up. Turned on the ignition and pulled the 30amp trailer fuse then replaced it and the lights were out! Tried all the lights in turn and everything is now working TBTG! Must have reset something somewhere so fingers crossed it is not temporary!
Hi, I would recheck all your connections, firstly that they are in the correct order location and second the you have good secure connections especially the earth connection. It usually turns out to be something simple rather than a faulty part. Hope you sort it ok. Let us know how you get on. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop i think i did, i connected all the cables of the car side with the matching ones of the car harness and in the pin i connected all the trailer cables.
Did you determine which cable supplied which lamp correctly. You may still have an earth issue. Try disconnecting the earth cable from the relay and check you have good earth continuity. A test lamp ie a car bulb connected to the cable and live would be good to test this.
Is your bypass relay "always on" or is the power cut when the ignition is in the off position? Deciding for myself if i'm going to install another relay so when the car is shut of the bypass relay is shut off as well. This so it doesn't drain the battery.
That is a very good idea from an electrical safety viewpoint. It is a permanent supply, so there is alway power to the relay. This does mean side lights and or hazard lights can be used without the need for the ignition to be on. As long as the relay doesn’t develop a fault it should not drain the battery at all. Hope this helps.
@@nielshoekstra13 Hi Niels, there probably is way but I be honest I don’t know how. The beeping function is internal to the relay, it may come apart to somehow disable it but probably best left working. It’s there to indicate the trailer indicators are working. You could try sound proofing it’s location to muffle the sound intensity, you may be able to live with then. If you do make sure it doesn’t then get to hot! Nice to know you got the relay installed ok. Hope I’ve helped a little.
@@EverydayWorkshop I've put some ducttape on it do make it a bit less loud, think I will leave it that way. Installation went good, thanks to your video ;)
With having power to the relay when the ignition is off means that if you are stopped on road due to a break down, you can walk away from the car with the keys to be in a safer place and your hazard lights will still work.
Hello, very good video. I was wondering if you can help me. I have replaced the 7 core cable with all new, new plug, connectors etc. as soon as I start the car, the indicators are on and the left brake light for a couple of seconds then it blows the 15a fuse. The battery for the car is in the boot. I am running the TEB7AS direct from the battery with a 15a inline fuse. The caravan is from the 1970s, though the lights and the wiring are all new. Many thanks. :)
Hi, It sounds very much you have the cables connected incorrectly, maybe a live going directly to earth. I would start from scratch and go through all the connections making sure that are in the correct position and have a very good connection. Make sure the earth is a very good connection. Hope this helps and you get the issue sorted out.
@@EverydayWorkshop I think scotch locks should be banned lol. Took the whole weekend but I replaced the 4 core wire and learned how to solder 😂. I’d have saved a lot of time if I had just replaced everything. No longer blowing fuses. Thanks for your help.
😁 I agree they should be banned. I’m in the process on repairing a wiring loom on an accident damaged Citroen C5 Aircross. About 20 small wires all ripped apart, and I’m definitely soldering those 😊. Great to hear you have sorted the issue.
I hope you find this video helpful and interesting. Take a look also at the tow bar install which can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/djAheyG2lfM/v-deo.html
Just watched video, great deal of info. I was particularly pleased to see a permanent live in rear of boot, negating the need to run to front of car. Just confirming, was this a Kuga. Ready to watch towbar install now. Why can't manufacturers just leave a dedicated trailer multi plug in rear, as some already do. Thanks for great video
Hi, James, really pleased you liked the video and found it useful. I try to cover every aspect when making a video, as it is frustrating if a video misses a crucial point in a process. Agreed it would be very easy for manufacturers to install dedicated socket in the boot.
No it isn’t a Kuga it’s a Volvo xc60 so won’t be exactly the same as in power source. Although it’s a fair bet there is a permanent supply in boot of a Kuga somewhere. Otherwise besides the your permanent power source issue there rest should be the same. Hope this helps. 🙂👍
thanks for the very useful vid! subbed
I’m really pleased you found it useful and thanks for subscribing. 🙂👍
Good video - personal preference is I’m not a lover of scotch locks and connectors for permanence, far better to take the time to solder and heat shrink 😉👍
I totally agree Alistair, I mentioned this in the video I think.
will be doing this tomorrow,your upload has helped a lot when using multi meter when checking wires do you have black probe on a earth
Really pleased to help. Hope you get it all sorted. Yes when checking each cable your negative (black) multimeter cable just needs grounding to a good clean earth point. It may help if you mechanically fix your black cable, to ensure you always have a good earth while you identify each cable.
Great video. I have a xc90 and someone had fitted this relay already and also there is a power source also in the rear fuse panel. I just wanted to see how it was installed while i tidy up the wiring as a previous owner had made a mess of the install.
Thank you, I’m really pleased you have found it useful. 👍🙂
God bless you and your camera
Hi. Great video. Thank you.
Im trying to identify my cables on the back plug but more than 1 has voltage, i have a volvo v40 and plugs look very similar to yours.
Would the indicator fluctuate with voltage?
Thabk you
Hi Stephen, if you mean the low voltage CANbus cables on you car then yes the indicators would fluctuate with the flashing sequence. You would then have individual low voltage supply to the side, stop and fog lights. You need to identify each individual supply before connecting to the correct bypass relay cable. You only need to connect to one side tail light supply except the indicator of course and possibly the fog light, which you would run cables across from the opposite side. Hope this helps. 👍🙂
Hey, how much you charge for fitting tow bar and where are you base?
Hi Stefan, I’m sorry I am not doing any extra work at the moment. I have just a select few customers. Thank you for asking though. 🙂👍
thank you very helpful and informative
Thanks a lot, really helpful video.
Very glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Hi at 8 mins in you connected the two blue cables together what are these?
Thanks
Hi Chris, well I’ve had a sleep or two since the install, so I’ve just had to watch the video to refresh my memory. It is just the cable from the right rear fog lamp, I’m just showing the connection to the corresponding bypass relay cable which is blue and I happened to have some blue cable. The kit came with some cable but not enough. If you have a look at 1:55 it shows the bypass relay connections and colours and at 7:00 the connections to the fog lamp wire on the right rear. Hope this helps.
@@EverydayWorkshop all sorted thanks buddy 👍
Hi! Another economic skillset. What can be done to the cigarette port in the car? A luxury from another economic era. Is it possible to power a phone are charge a battery, computer, or even trailers lights from this port and Porch??? Thanks for your Help and Ideas. Lifestyle.!!!
Not sure it would be suitable to power trailer lights but it will most probably power the other items you mention. 🙂👍
I’ve just fitted this bypass and it starts to make a buzzing noise wen engine is on then I put brake on it goes off 😊
Hi Matt, I would check all of your connections making sure each terminal is in the correct position and secured correctly and not trapping the insulation rather then the core. Especially check your earth connections, are they correct and with a good connection. It’s possible it’s maybe earthing through the brake light circuit. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on and if I can help further. 😊👍
Very good helpful video
👍
Thank you Jason, I’m pleased it helped.
Perfect , thanks 🙏🏿
Thanks again Steve, it does feel good knowing I’ve helped 😊.
@@EverydayWorkshop Followed your instructions today. Perfect, works a treat. Thanks again.
I would need your help please 🙏
I have a Golf MK7, I’ve fitted the towbar, I’ve routed the wiring of the towbar, I’ve stripped all the trim in the boot and exposed the car’s wiring harness, lights everything.
Now I have a multimeter and back probes and unfortunately I have zero knowledge on how to trace the signals.
Please advise what are the steps: multimeter set on 20V I see in your video, black multimeter lead to a clean ground and the positive to each pin, but then what do I look for ? I suppose I have to turn on and off fog light, turn signal etc and suppose I need to observe a certain variation on the multimeter, what is it that I need to look for ?
I spent 4 hours tracing ‘something’ and I thought I’ve found the signal for each light to then realise that I have actually traced the 12V from each light, and not the signals.
Please help. Thank you
Hi, well it sounds like you are on the right track, that is exactly what you need to do. Operate each light in turn. Ie say side lights first with all other lights off the terminal that shows a reading on the meter is the side light feed. Once identified mark the corresponding cable with some tape. You only need to identify the cables mainly to one rear lamp, use the one nearest your bypass relay. For the indicator, opposite side and possibly the fog you will need to run a cable from the other side. Once you’ve identified all the feeds you then connect each cable to the corresponding cable as show on the bypass relay diagram. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any further help. 🙂👍
I liked this video nicely done
Thanks Bret, glad you enjoyed it and hopefully found it helpful. 👍
I did exactly what you show but when i connect ground cable from TEB7AS with trailer one its sounds non stop and that worries me. Any help?
Hi Ivelin, not sure what the issue might actually be if you have have connected the relay exactly as the instructions state. Try rechecking each individual connection if you haven’t already. It is possible you have faulty relay in which case you should contact your supplier. Sorry I’m not much more help, hope you get it sorted.
@@EverydayWorkshop thanks. But if i fault the relay, is it going to work at all? When i connect the ground sounds non stop, but all lights working as it should, just that freaking sounds don't want to stop...
As Alistair Wilcox set is better to solder and shrink, i think that could be a weak connection. I'll reconnect everything to my vehicle connectors and will solder and shrink them. If that not works, i'll contact supplier.
Why does the live feed have to be permanent?
Hi, well it doesn’t have to be permanent. But it is a good idea, so that side lights and more importantly the hazard warning lights can still be operated without the ignition having to be turned on. Both of which can operated without the ignition on the towing vehicle. Hope this helps and thanks for your comment.
That’s very helpful, thank you.
Should also make i clear that this is for a universal electric kit, and not a dedicated. I followed link from Pf jones about relays for my car, but does not mention a dedicated kit.
Hi Ian, I understand what you are saying although I think it is quite obviously a bypass relay kit for any vehicle. I don’t mention anywhere it is a dedicated kit for this vehicle. I’ll add something to the description though. Hope you found it useful. 🙂👍
good video, I have a problem with my caravan lights. When I plug into the car all the caravan lights come on. Stop and tail, fog, brakes, indicators. I substituted a trailer board and the same thing happened! Could this be a fault in the relay?
Hi Duncan, it could well be a relay fault but likely an earth issue. By that I mean it doesn’t have a very good earth so may run through the other lights to an earth turning them all on if that makes sense. So the first thing to check is all the earth connections, remove them, clean and re secure. I would also check all the other connections too. If you have a multimeter or test light check the earth is working. Connect to a good positive feed. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop Hello, Thankyou for your reply. I am pleased to say that I? ha ha! have fixed it. Went to the car this morning, plugged the trailer board in and everything lit up. Turned on the ignition and pulled the 30amp trailer fuse then replaced it and the lights were out! Tried all the lights in turn and everything is now working TBTG! Must have reset something somewhere so fingers crossed it is not temporary!
That’s great news Duncan. Really pleased you have it sorted. Thanks for visiting my channel and viewing the video. 😊👍
When i attach trailer to car, the TEB7AS Bypass Relay starts buzzing, why is that?
Hi, I would recheck all your connections, firstly that they are in the correct order location and second the you have good secure connections especially the earth connection. It usually turns out to be something simple rather than a faulty part. Hope you sort it ok. Let us know how you get on. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop i think i did, i connected all the cables of the car side with the matching ones of the car harness and in the pin i connected all the trailer cables.
Did you determine which cable supplied which lamp correctly. You may still have an earth issue. Try disconnecting the earth cable from the relay and check you have good earth continuity. A test lamp ie a car bulb connected to the cable and live would be good to test this.
Is your bypass relay "always on" or is the power cut when the ignition is in the off position? Deciding for myself if i'm going to install another relay so when the car is shut of the bypass relay is shut off as well. This so it doesn't drain the battery.
That is a very good idea from an electrical safety viewpoint. It is a permanent supply, so there is alway power to the relay. This does mean side lights and or hazard lights can be used without the need for the ignition to be on. As long as the relay doesn’t develop a fault it should not drain the battery at all. Hope this helps.
@@EverydayWorkshop another question, do you have any idea if you can disable the beeping when using indicators?
@@nielshoekstra13 Hi Niels, there probably is way but I be honest I don’t know how. The beeping function is internal to the relay, it may come apart to somehow disable it but probably best left working. It’s there to indicate the trailer indicators are working. You could try sound proofing it’s location to muffle the sound intensity, you may be able to live with then. If you do make sure it doesn’t then get to hot! Nice to know you got the relay installed ok. Hope I’ve helped a little.
@@EverydayWorkshop I've put some ducttape on it do make it a bit less loud, think I will leave it that way. Installation went good, thanks to your video ;)
With having power to the relay when the ignition is off means that if you are stopped on road due to a break down, you can walk away from the car with the keys to be in a safer place and your hazard lights will still work.
Hello, very good video. I was wondering if you can help me. I have replaced the 7 core cable with all new, new plug, connectors etc. as soon as I start the car, the indicators are on and the left brake light for a couple of seconds then it blows the 15a fuse.
The battery for the car is in the boot. I am running the TEB7AS direct from the battery with a 15a inline fuse.
The caravan is from the 1970s, though the lights and the wiring are all new.
Many thanks. :)
Hi, It sounds very much you have the cables connected incorrectly, maybe a live going directly to earth. I would start from scratch and go through all the connections making sure that are in the correct position and have a very good connection. Make sure the earth is a very good connection. Hope this helps and you get the issue sorted out.
@@EverydayWorkshop I think scotch locks should be banned lol. Took the whole weekend but I replaced the 4 core wire and learned how to solder 😂. I’d have saved a lot of time if I had just replaced everything. No longer blowing fuses. Thanks for your help.
😁 I agree they should be banned. I’m in the process on repairing a wiring loom on an accident damaged Citroen C5 Aircross. About 20 small wires all ripped apart, and I’m definitely soldering those 😊. Great to hear you have sorted the issue.