bought the same trailing bushes 2 weeks ago and the fully sick brake rotors are on special for $176 a pair and ignore the fact they both say front left lol
just helped my mate get his first car, we found a "low" mile 92' hatch (182k km! better than my 375k on my 92' cb7). been helping him knock out all the maintenance, so far we flushed the brake fluid, oil change, new brakes, new wheels and tires, but the last maintenance i wanna hit before i send him on his way is the suspension. been fearing doing the trailing arm bushings but this vid came up in auto play and saved me alot of hassle! Thanks mate great video!
Do you know the mileage on the timing belt? If not I'd do that, the tensioner, and the water pump before *anything* else. Honda original parts only too. Then fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
Along with these upgrades, the other change that made the most noticable difference for me was installing an Integra rear sway bar(Si/CTR works too). If you aren't also beefing up your front one I'd be careful messing with the huge diameter rear bars you see online or you're risking a lot of oversteer.
Kinda late on this one, just discovered your channel and that's so cool that a mechanic newbie like me can understand and learn stuff like this thanks for your work man ! I've been keeping my ITR front and rear arms for like a year in the ceiling, rebuilding them from scratch, changing every little part, sanding and re painting them to make them brand new, i might be using these bushes because i want it to be a 1 timer and put my hands in these the least possible
@@nobodynoone2500 why replace something that was poorly engineered from the get go? instead replace with a superior aftermarket one better in every way
Budget tip for those really down on the dollar, just fill the air space gap within stock bushing with permatex rubber. U just inject it in from a calking gun. Once it hardens, voila! Solid rubber mount and u can do it while on the car!
I recently picked up a clean 98 coupe ex with 141k miles on it, and have been building up a pile of everything I need to convert the rear drums to disc. I had to buy mostly new as getting to the hondas and acuras first is a nightmare, they've usually been picked clean like a cow in a river full of hungry piranha. I have been dreading doing the trailing arm bushings. This video might've just saved me a world of hurt.
Awesome mods! Planning on get my hands on a EX 99-00 (d16y8), as my first car, I'm learning a lot with these videos and looking forward to be doing this kind of stuff myself, so thank you very much for sharing your knowledge on these little cars, you definatelly have the knowledge and charisma to get more views and subs 👏 Cheers mate! All the way from across the pond 🇧🇷 😊
Love your content. Never was into cars but drove my first civic and bought it. Wanna bring it back to life! it’s heaps good watching a video from aus and having parts and prices more realistic and relateable Love from South Australia
nolathane and whiteline are owned by the same company, so that's why the rear trailing arm bushings and even their instruction manuals are identical, apart from colour. you were right to say that they were probably made at the same factory.
The urethane ones bind up and tear out. Use the oem style. They need to bend in multiple axes not just rock back and forth due to honda's dynamic toe setup. P.s. Urethane works literally EVERYWHERE else on a civic/crx/crv tho, so go ahead and buy a kit.
there has been a few similar comments to this below, I have chatted with whitleine about it and they say that the bush cant bind up as it can flex in all directions
Those of us in the states don’t know how lucky we are to have so much flexibility with road rules & regulations. Having the freedom to experiment with our cars with little consistence really is a slice of freedom considering all the other things that US citizens complain about when they say the US is not as liberal as it used to be. However here in South Fl we are the most popular state when it comes to the car culture and we’re the biggest domain when it comes to the automotive market both amateur and business. But Michigan is known for manufacturing the most vehicles.
I wish Australia was like Florida the wild stuff I would do on my UA-cam channel would go viral but we can, if I show street racing the cops will kick in my door and take my hard drive as evidence then use that to charge me with crimes
@@masterjack8222 Really anything that fits perfectly snug in the screw. Regular screw drivers, even with a big tip, are sharp and bottom out before filling out the + and you'll just strip the shit out of it.
I wanted to replace all of my bushings for energy suspension, but realized it was a mistake, since it was very difficult. this looks pretty easy though lol. I did score some seamingly new oem trailing arms in a junkyard so for now I'm using the oem bushings on everything, but would like something stiffer in the future. I just don't make a lot of money for now
Bro I know the feeling, I am grinding hard two jobs and doing UA-cam to make ends meet, this mod is moreimportand than most other mods though you dont want the back wheels steering the car
OEM are the best for trailing arms, and fine anywhere tbh. I do think the Energy kit is worth the hassle if you drive really hard on sticky tires. I say let a shop with a press do it for you in a few minutes. Puting the new ones in is way easier DIY. Or be like me and buy a press.
I ended up putting in the energy suspension ones. Did it in my drive way with an impact and a big bolt an washers to press them in. It was definitely alot harder to do then what is showed in this video. They definitely made my Civic Si more stable in the corners.
Just found your channel great info and you are very knowledgeable on the civic as I’m new to the civics as my boy picked one up definitely subscribing to your channel.
Wish you had uploaded this video a few months ago. I did replaced my bushing with the old one which cost me about $500. Didn't know it would cost that much as the much labour was included where they couldn't take the old one easily so took about 4.5 hrs for both they said, and charged me. This video is essential 👌
Those rear disk conversions are like gold here in my part of Canada. Only hope is that one of the jdm importers happens to bring some in and you're quick enough to snatch a set up.
hahaha, not in Australia most people buy the base model civic and do nothing with it besides rims coilovers and a jdm learners flag air freshener hahaha, these come standard on civic sedans here in Australia so they are everywhere
@@TURBOTRISTO and because of our winters and the salt that's used on the roads good luck finding a set that hasn't turned to dust. You need to start collecting them and shipping them over to us. I'd be your first customer. 😉
Well you talked me into it. I just ordered a pair of The Whiteline bushings. Honestly it never really occurred to me to change these things out. Thanks for the tip.
trust me man yours will be split and cracked its probably costing you money on tyre wear, I lowered a civic for a bloke last week and when i lifted the rear up to take the wheels off , the metal ring nearly fell out it was that bad
I installed the Prothane 8-304, not as easy to install as the Nolathane but easier than the Energy Suspension model (no need to keep the metals). Just heated up the arm and beat the hell out of it.
I wouldn't suggest the bushings and here's my reasoning why the factory is very pliable and going in corners its gonna give way the aftermarket spherical bearings are solid but the bearing gives no resistances the poly urethane are a lot stiffer and when you go into the corners it'll hold hold hold then snap back kind of like axle wrap on a solid rear axle i like poly for every other bushing on the car except the trailing arms i seriously think it could cause someone to wreck if they dont know its gonna snap in a corner
These are the bushings of choice for all racers, whiteline suspension are all very smart engineers and racers they sell the best gear for making cars handle better they are world class and all have university degree’s I’m Sure they know what’s is best
@@TURBOTRISTO If that's the case I wonder why exclusive Honda JDM tuner brands like Spoon/Mugen/etc. don't offer these type of solid urethane bushings? 🤔They stick with a harder version of the oem design.
The Mini cooper discs are 279mm, and verry thin, you need an MG discs, they are 282mm and a lot thicker, awso they are full bolt on. With the mini cooper discs you need spacers for the hub studs, and you can't use the disc to hub bolts
great idea I checked out their website they look great I didn't like the engine mounts and the rear trailing arm bushes looked a bit weak but everything else looks great
your brother must be a cool guy!!! get on the new rubber bushes your car will love you and it will give you a more confident feel when cornering or handling bumps
Every honda civic need is Upgrade all bushing to energy suspension kit, Dc Integra Front and rear brake upgrade with Integra Rs booster dual and master cylinder with 2 main master cylinder brake lines to prop valve because don't need that "NON-Abs" with a 40/40. Some Stainless steel brake lines which every brand you prefer, ebay slotted rotors. Hawk brake pads.. makes a good handling daily car with your choice of suspension.
Great video. If you lower your car or run bags, it rips those bushings up pretty fast. I did the energy ones, pain in the ass to press in with the arms still in the car. I used a long bolt and two pieces of wood to do it, they went in sideways 10 times until it finally just popped in.
@@TURBOTRISTO Mine blew out when it was just lowered. When I went to buy replacements I thought about "clocking" the webs on install to compensate for the lowering. But found this type luckily, the 360 degree rotational ability is so far superior. I have an EJ6 commuter on bags, drop forks, drop LCA's. She goes up and down 4 times a day minimum, it's been around two years. So far so good. Zero tire wear issues.
@@TURBOTRISTO It's pretty fun. I had it super low static and it was ruining the car dragging the floor pan over speed bumps. Now I can hit the driveways and train crossings without clenching up.
My EK loves you for this man lol . Edit - I’m running maxpeeding rods coil over kit on my 99 accord . Can’t say I’m heavily impressed until I can find a rebuild kit as the right rear is knocking in straight lines through rough roads .
@@TURBOTRISTO meh theyre about 3 years old man lol . I doubt warranty will do anything . I mean as far as being adjustable and really good cornering results I def give em 4 outta 5 stars even as cheap as they are . I cant bitch to much lol . I may buy a set for my EK . I really wanted something expesive for this project but im not rich just yet lmao
@@lostkauz83 I know the feeling, I recomend bc coilovers for mid budget and shockworks for the best of the best on the planet, and they aren’t much more than bc’s
so i have just checked out the website for energy suspension they all look awesome i would 100% recommend you buy a bush kit, the engine mounts and torque mounts look a bit cheap and dodgy though, I checked out the scarebird brake kits and to be honest, they look pretty dodgy I wouldn't use them. I would prefer some oem junk yard upgrades
Wow really! No-one bothered to mention that the Integra & 262mm EK had different front knuckles to move their 17CL caliper outward to suit the 262mm disc, with the early CRV/type R caliper bigger again to take that knuckle to the 282mm disc size. Both bigger calipers heavier & larger brake piston requiring bigger M/cylinder & proportioning valve. CRV calipers can take 242 knuckles to 262, or 262 knuckles can take lightweight 242 calipers to fit bigger 262 brake discs with little change in pad area compared to 'the 262mm 17CL calipers.
Just so I'm understanding clearly before I go to the wreckers. In order to fit the 280m rotors on my EG I would have to swap the knuckles as well as the calipers. Or will the accord calipers bolted to the EG knocks fit the 280mm rotors? Sorry for the inconvenience. I'm sifting through all the comments and looking through all your videos to get some clarity. Thank you for the great content @turbotristan
@@Mr.IX9 Some upper spec. EG were factory fitted with 'Integra' knuckles to suit 262mm discs, those with 242 need the bigger knuckles to move their calipers further out. Same for EK though their knuckle was shorter than EG/Integra.
What do you think about the spherical bearing type replacement they offer for that trailing arm bushing. The ones I have seen are thru bolted thru the trailing arm which locate them. I’d just bet that poly will have a softer ride then a hard bearing.
Spherical are fantastic for a track only car and totally rubbish for a street car, they will vibrate and thrash out very quickly and the car will be horrible to drive
Great vid man, looking at doing a brake conversion/big brake upgrade myself and had some questions. Did you use the standard ek braided brake lines from safe brakes? They say only fit ek calipers.
Hello Are these maxspeedingeods disc reliable? 2 years since the video was filmed, what can you report (in all sincerity) on these max brake discs? THANKS
Nothing wrong with the actual discs I have put them on a couple of cars I am releasing a video tomorrow about a better solution and a better way of doing it, the issue is the holes are all giant and the flop around, you need spacers and things to get them to sit centred, my solution in tomorrows video is better
Hey man, if I upgrade the rear drums to disc, and I want to also upgrade the front brake calipers to those integra/CRV ones. Do I need to also upgrade to BMC, Brake booster and prop valve? Or is running the stock (EK Cxi) ones enough ?
It’s slightly larger, there shouldn’t be any load on your brake rotors once they are clamped on to the hub with the rim they centre just like any other fully floating factory disc set up, it would be ideal if the hubs were tighter so it would limit the chance of someone locking down one lug with it off set and then doing the other 3 up off set, but you would have to be pretty careless to do that
It’s called ‘squirts’ by white knite sold at Bunnings if you are in Oz, I painted my whole engine bay with this paint it’s awesome, the next build will get the rocket cover painted fluro yellow to match
Anyone noticed the second brake rotor doesn’t have the two small holes for the 2 small screws but the first brake rotor set that’s already assembled does have it? Hmm
The OGs used to tell me this would give me snap oversteer. Any one experience that? Fyi for the folks on a tight build budget you don't need the whole trailing arm to do the disc swap, you can just swap spindles it's just a few torx in the back.
@TURBOTRISTO and thank you for the reply man I appreciate that and for the info not many people will answer on UA-cam but I'm pretty sure I know what I have to get so the mini Cooper rotars are just a lil bigger then the integra or ex roatars but too
the stock on will be ok , it is advisable though if you can get a bigger master cylinder from the same car you pull the brakes out of is a great idea, personally I run a HONED brake master delete, it will give you much better pedal feel and brake control but it is a bit weird to drive on for the first day but you get used to it
@@TURBOTRISTO yeah I figured that. I was just wondering about the trailing arms cuz I have a 95 EX coupe and I did not know if I got the rear pieces from a Integra if I could just use those same trailing arms that's on my ex or if I have to use the Integra trailing arms. And I figured since you did it you'd probably know LOL
already did the big work with my coupe with that rear arms! in Lativa we just trying to find this rear arms on it from MB civics, because the VTI versions, we just dont find this cars in our country(
On my sedan I run no spoiler, it’s entirely up to you and the look you are going for if you are going for the race look add something from a period correct late 90s touring car, if you are going more modern subtle style you could add a low small lip spoiler like an Audi or bmw might have, i guess it all depends on the style. If you go back and check my first video on my civic you will see my sedan with a pretty nice spoiler on the back I actually liked it but it wasn’t the look I wanted, I couldn’t even sell it back in the day so it went out for council collection, it’s a shame it was nice
great tutorial on the brakes.🙂Subbed for more(I've a DC2 R, so just a fatter Civic. 😁). I agree 100% that regular inspection of that trailing arm bush is a must and replace if it looks iffy, but I'd respectfully disagree with sticking a poly bush in there. The OEM bush looks a bit crap because it's designed(several Honda patents on it) to be horizontally flexible so that the arm moves rearward under braking pulling the front of the trailing arm in adding toe in and stabilising the back end of the car under braking. This passive setup even allows for differences in forces between the two wheels. It's one big reason why these chassis have such a rep for handling/cornering. A poly seriously reduces this advantage(spherical loses it entirely). That said, if you're not on a track or driving like a demon you may not notice(I'm a meh driver so need all the help I can get) and a poly will certainly last longer.
@@TURBOTRISTO I just hope upgrading my front brakes to 10.3 rotors and hawk hp plus pads then switching my drums to rear disc will help with a energy suspension trailing arm bushing, new rear camber kit, 15/16ths master cylinder and 4040 proportional valve is worth the $500-600 I’m making 450whp and want it to be safe. Gotta pump brakes rn and I just bled them
I have a 95 Del Sol... does this apply to my car as well? I'm pretty sure this is the rear bushing that are going out in my car that I need to have replaced by using a press to push them in...
G'day Carson, YES 100% everything is exactly the same for the usa market civics, and in my experience with suspension in USDM cars you really should spend a bit of time and some money changing all the bushes in your car, trust me it will drive and handle so nice
Hey guys I actually got a stock ef hatback 89. I need help getting parts but I don’t know specifically from which vehicles I can swap parts with. For example I need new axles and possibly wheel bearings, I can hear rattles at fast turns and squealing at times, please help me community! I want to keep my car running. I also need new tires, I have 175/50/13s
I am told that it does fit behind the factory 15s, i am running 16s on my car and they clear fine, when i do the upgrade I will try slip on the stock rims and see how the clearance is
@@TURBOTRISTO thanks mate just expanded the search a bit more. One bloke said he has the arms and disc for $400 complete i might pick it up unless i can find cheaper. Do you have a video on doing the conversion?
sure do i have several on it, can watch the disc brakes on an ed/ef civic or you can watch the ek video i did on the silver ek about 1 year ago for both videos its the same process for both
@@TURBOTRISTO i just bought a complete front end dc2 subframe and front end suspension upgrade kit with new hubs bearings control arms ball joints rack n pinion the whole full nine for k20 prep but running b series b16 setup atm! On my 99 civic em1 si aswell as mini cooper front n back complete conversion brake kit aswell!! Spent lots of dollars!!! Haha making sure i got everything before going on to work on it! The trailing arms is the last missing piece at least! Might get me some nolathanes!! Any website recommendation!? And great video once again! I also do some vlogs here and there and a lot of cool acceleration videos! Thanks!!!
Hey Tristan, I am chasing hand brake cables for the disc conversion I used Ek sedan calipers but can’t find cables (pin style to suit. Any help would be appreciated.
@@grantsmith8679 I actually want to keep them for a while I will be putting whiteline bushes in them and new rotors and pads and use them for the photography on my new website after that the whole package will be for sale, with install an option
Hi do you find these limit toe adjustments? I have a 2” drop with similar trailing arm bushings and can’t get toe in spec it’s slightly toed in at max setting
its just for centering and to eliminate the possibility of it spinning, not that it would, most peoples biggest issue is overtightening the suspension whilst the car is in the air, all suspension components must be tighten'd up on the car when the car is at ride height to avoid taring the bushes
Hey guys anyone have issues with fitment with this? I tried it but I’m wondering if we have to change the actual spindle or knuckle because the 23T caliper bracket doesn’t clear the 280mm rotor. The bracket bolts right up by itself but doesn’t clear the rotor. Could it be the bracket itself? Thanks 🙏🏽
@@TURBOTRISTO yes of course! Thank you for the quick response. I deff did the rears and they fit perfectly but I’m trying to do the front as well. I pulled off some cr-v rotors and brackets but they don’t clear the 280mm mini cooper rotors . I’ve seen other vids who say the knuckles need to be off an ex but this is going on a hatchback. Maybe the hatch has smaller knuckles vs the ex? I appreciate your response brother. Love your vids
the CRV knuckles and hubs should bolt directly to an eg/ek and then you can use the same hubs and everything, failing that if you are using civic knuckles you need to use the 262 civic sedan or vtir em1or ek4 hubs the integra type r calipers or the crv calipers will bolt on and clear 280/282 rotors, easily i have 4 videos on this on my channel, on is the silver ek that i put this set up on that is in this video, the other is the first one on my black civic i think it was on the first start video, and the most recent one was the 5 stud conversion on my black civic i go into more detail and better explanations
@@TURBOTRISTO ahh yes I saw your other vids! Thanks so much. I actually was able to find me some off the CR-v this afternoon and it made things a lot easier to assemble. Figured I change out the bearings and lower ball joints while I’m there. Thanks man; this is gonna be sweet when I complete it this week. Glad I found your channel. God bless 🙌🏽
Solid rubber upgrade might seem like a good idea but I had Prothane bushings in my 90 ef hatch and yes at low speeds and turns it felt solid and turned corners like a champ !! But now when u hit a fast corner doing 100mph plus u better be ready to drive the car real good because they don't do what they need to do and will steer u into a crash and as u try to save it you only get into a worse situation. So if u plan on hitting corners over 80mph u are going to have a handful of steering issues but under 80mph they feel great but u want a spherical style set up otherwise this mod is not good ! Trust me I know from experience. This mod should banned from any track use but I don't think I know anyone who would ever use this rubber bushing because most honda guys already know this is a no no!
Hi, I know this vid is a bit old, but I am planning on getting disc brakes off an 5th gen EG hatch (non-abs I presume as it is not VTi) and fitting them on my 6th gen EJ9 pre-facelift 98 hatch non-abs (with the big drums in the rear and 262mm front discs). I know I am only supposed to use the trailing arm off the EG and use my lower and upper control arms. My questions are I see people mention using 99-00 Si e-brake cable, would it work fine for the EG calipers on the EK/EJ chassis? My second question is, do I need the EG brake lines for this conversion or do I need to get new ones from a 6th gen VTi?
It doesn’t matter that the video is old the information in it is timeless haha .Ditch the big drum idea get yourself some ek civic sedan rear trailing arms and discs with the handbrake cables, everything bolts in from Ed/ef eg/ej ek/em they are all Interchaingable, also the ek sedan front knuckles are what you need to run the bigger front brakes
@@TURBOTRISTO Hey, thanks for the reply. Oh i already have the bigger knuckles. I have stock 262mm front even though it's a pre-facelift, it's those weird transitional models. I'm just gonna keep it 262 for awhile cause i got new winter tires a year ago on my stock 14's, but when i go 15's for winter too for sure i might go 282mm front, 262mm back. About the eg brakes, that idea went to hell cause somebody beat me to them, they run out like hot bread. Not finding any ek sedans and coupes for parts either (or atleast one that have their rear brakes). That being said i do have a way out but it's a fitment issue. Since i am going to be running 15x7 et35 summers with 195/50 tire it's on the edge of rubbing fitment wise. The solution and the problem comes from a rear brake swap. I can get rear brakes from civic MA/MB (6gen fastback civics, so called Rover civics), but their rear hub is 10mm more outwards meaning my wheel will be like an et25 and will definetly rub (even though i'm on stock springs i still load it up sometimes on trips). My question is will rolling fenders (even though i try to avoid it) help with the bigger hubs from the MA/MB's and prevent the tires from rubbing? The 2nd thing i am wondering is if i get the MA/MB rear knuckle, would it be possible to use my current hubs to prefferably not roll my fenders? Any info would be much appreciated, or perhaps a suitable substitute to the rare brake swap dillema, like a 4x100 accord or something. Sadly we don't have tegs here and it sucks cause i love how they look and they have so many good parts.
bought the same trailing bushes 2 weeks ago and the fully sick brake rotors are on special for $176 a pair and ignore the fact they both say front left lol
Yeah man how awesome are they
Wht brand again?
Whiteline or nolathane
just helped my mate get his first car, we found a "low" mile 92' hatch (182k km! better than my 375k on my 92' cb7). been helping him knock out all the maintenance, so far we flushed the brake fluid, oil change, new brakes, new wheels and tires, but the last maintenance i wanna hit before i send him on his way is the suspension. been fearing doing the trailing arm bushings but this vid came up in auto play and saved me alot of hassle! Thanks mate great video!
you are very welcome mate, i have recent done a heap of suspension bush and sway bar videos you should check out, thanks for watching
Do you know the mileage on the timing belt? If not I'd do that, the tensioner, and the water pump before *anything* else. Honda original parts only too. Then fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I been driving an EG Civic as my daily transport for 29 years now. Nice video, great info. Subbed. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Wagron man!
@@TURBOTRISTO 🇺🇸thank you for the advice on the civic it took all that slop away been busy forgot to to tell you THANKS BUDDY 👍🇺🇸
One of the og Honda tuners from Jamaica is now here in aus I made freinds with him ChongData Marlon Chong fantastic guy
Along with these upgrades, the other change that made the most noticable difference for me was installing an Integra rear sway bar(Si/CTR works too). If you aren't also beefing up your front one I'd be careful messing with the huge diameter rear bars you see online or you're risking a lot of oversteer.
Great tip
could i run a rear sway bar for my 93 eg hatch?
Kinda late on this one, just discovered your channel and that's so cool that a mechanic newbie like me can understand and learn stuff like this thanks for your work man !
I've been keeping my ITR front and rear arms for like a year in the ceiling, rebuilding them from scratch, changing every little part, sanding and re painting them to make them brand new, i might be using these bushes because i want it to be a 1 timer and put my hands in these the least possible
Good plan man, that’s the best way these bushes are great because the cut vibration and have no where they can wear or crack
Use the OEM style ones if you drive it often.
@@nobodynoone2500 Why should i prioritize OEM style one for a regular use ? Is there some comfort related reason behind this choice ?
@@nobodynoone2500 why replace something that was poorly engineered from the get go? instead replace with a superior aftermarket one better in every way
Nice one i have eg turbo swap H2BA7
Cheers mate, just brought one of these yesterday, will pick it up next week and order these bushings! Channel is coming soon!
@@Mike-ry4ti nice man
I've done the flat plate method, don't even need to be metal steel, I did with some MDF. Worked a treat.
Mad handy to know
Budget tip for those really down on the dollar, just fill the air space gap within stock bushing with permatex rubber. U just inject it in from a calking gun. Once it hardens, voila! Solid rubber mount and u can do it while on the car!
whilst that can work, there isn't anything to bond to and the additional urethane will fall out
I recently picked up a clean 98 coupe ex with 141k miles on it, and have been building up a pile of everything I need to convert the rear drums to disc. I had to buy mostly new as getting to the hondas and acuras first is a nightmare, they've usually been picked clean like a cow in a river full of hungry piranha. I have been dreading doing the trailing arm bushings. This video might've just saved me a world of hurt.
I’m glad I could help check my other vids for more tips and consider subscribing
Awesome mods! Planning on get my hands on a EX 99-00 (d16y8), as my first car, I'm learning a lot with these videos and looking forward to be doing this kind of stuff myself, so thank you very much for sharing your knowledge on these little cars, you definatelly have the knowledge and charisma to get more views and subs 👏
Cheers mate! All the way from across the pond 🇧🇷 😊
Thank you my man please subscribe and share with your friends in your country
Love your content. Never was into cars but drove my first civic and bought it. Wanna bring it back to life! it’s heaps good watching a video from aus and having parts and prices more realistic and relateable
Love from South Australia
Hey legend thanks for tuning in please subscribe and spread the word :)
nolathane and whiteline are owned by the same company, so that's why the rear trailing arm bushings and even their instruction manuals are identical, apart from colour. you were right to say that they were probably made at the same factory.
yeah I did know that but wanted to be vague in the video some people get funny about brands
The urethane ones bind up and tear out. Use the oem style. They need to bend in multiple axes not just rock back and forth due to honda's dynamic toe setup.
P.s. Urethane works literally EVERYWHERE else on a civic/crx/crv tho, so go ahead and buy a kit.
there has been a few similar comments to this below, I have chatted with whitleine about it and they say that the bush cant bind up as it can flex in all directions
starting to do a full efi swap on my ef hatch so this has been very useful for my disc conversion. Appreciate the insight man. Cheers from nz
@@dejurr1699 I’m doing one now vids will be out in a week or two
@@TURBOTRISTO sweet! Look for to it bro
I’ll be back after a run to the Junk yard!! White line order is in later today as well. Thank you
good stuff man happy to help!
Those of us in the states don’t know how lucky we are to have so much flexibility with road rules & regulations. Having the freedom to experiment with our cars with little consistence really is a slice of freedom considering all the other things that US citizens complain about when they say the US is not as liberal as it used to be.
However here in South Fl we are the most popular state when it comes to the car culture and we’re the biggest domain when it comes to the automotive market both amateur and business. But Michigan is known for manufacturing the most vehicles.
I wish Australia was like Florida the wild stuff I would do on my UA-cam channel would go viral but we can, if I show street racing the cops will kick in my door and take my hard drive as evidence then use that to charge me with crimes
ALWAYS USE A NUMBER 3 PHILLIPS SOCKET ON THE ROTOR SCREWS. Never stripped one with this tip. Regular Phillips will strip it.
Coool tip Frosti thanks 🥶🥶🥶🥶
might aswell use Jis heads from Vessel instead of Philips
@@masterjack8222 Really anything that fits perfectly snug in the screw. Regular screw drivers, even with a big tip, are sharp and bottom out before filling out the + and you'll just strip the shit out of it.
I wanted to replace all of my bushings for energy suspension, but realized it was a mistake, since it was very difficult. this looks pretty easy though lol. I did score some seamingly new oem trailing arms in a junkyard so for now I'm using the oem bushings on everything, but would like something stiffer in the future. I just don't make a lot of money for now
Bro I know the feeling, I am grinding hard two jobs and doing UA-cam to make ends meet, this mod is moreimportand than most other mods though you dont want the back wheels steering the car
You don't have to do everything all at once. I actually do simple upgrades myself even one side one part at a time.
@@lawrencedavidson6195 I'd just rather not replace most of the bushings on a stock part lol. I have a press, but it's a lot of work.
OEM are the best for trailing arms, and fine anywhere tbh. I do think the Energy kit is worth the hassle if you drive really hard on sticky tires. I say let a shop with a press do it for you in a few minutes. Puting the new ones in is way easier DIY. Or be like me and buy a press.
I ended up putting in the energy suspension ones. Did it in my drive way with an impact and a big bolt an washers to press them in. It was definitely alot harder to do then what is showed in this video. They definitely made my Civic Si more stable in the corners.
Just found your channel great info and you are very knowledgeable on the civic as I’m new to the civics as my boy picked one up definitely subscribing to your channel.
That’s great to hear Rodney welcome aboard mate
*_definitely going to do this to my 97 EK hatch. 🔥_*
You 100% should man
Wish you had uploaded this video a few months ago. I did replaced my bushing with the old one which cost me about $500. Didn't know it would cost that much as the much labour was included where they couldn't take the old one easily so took about 4.5 hrs for both they said, and charged me. This video is essential 👌
Thanks shrestha! I have done heaps of how too videos on my channel check it out and please subscribe
@@TURBOTRISTO yep already subscribed, will follow on because I am working on my car myself now
$500 honestly not bad tbh it’s a lot of work not going to lie you have to take the whole arm out and e brake then press it out $500 sounds about right
Those rear disk conversions are like gold here in my part of Canada. Only hope is that one of the jdm importers happens to bring some in and you're quick enough to snatch a set up.
hahaha, not in Australia most people buy the base model civic and do nothing with it besides rims coilovers and a jdm learners flag air freshener hahaha, these come standard on civic sedans here in Australia so they are everywhere
@@TURBOTRISTO and because of our winters and the salt that's used on the roads good luck finding a set that hasn't turned to dust. You need to start collecting them and shipping them over to us. I'd be your first customer. 😉
I will consider that for sure
Well you talked me into it. I just ordered a pair of The Whiteline bushings. Honestly it never really occurred to me to change these things out. Thanks for the tip.
trust me man yours will be split and cracked its probably costing you money on tyre wear, I lowered a civic for a bloke last week and when i lifted the rear up to take the wheels off , the metal ring nearly fell out it was that bad
I installed the Prothane 8-304, not as easy to install as the Nolathane but easier than the Energy Suspension model (no need to keep the metals). Just heated up the arm and beat the hell out of it.
Nice man
I wouldn't suggest the bushings and here's my reasoning why the factory is very pliable and going in corners its gonna give way the aftermarket spherical bearings are solid but the bearing gives no resistances the poly urethane are a lot stiffer and when you go into the corners it'll hold hold hold then snap back kind of like axle wrap on a solid rear axle i like poly for every other bushing on the car except the trailing arms i seriously think it could cause someone to wreck if they dont know its gonna snap in a corner
These are the bushings of choice for all racers, whiteline suspension are all very smart engineers and racers they sell the best gear for making cars handle better they are world class and all have university degree’s I’m
Sure they know what’s is best
@@TURBOTRISTO If that's the case I wonder why exclusive Honda JDM tuner brands like Spoon/Mugen/etc. don't offer these type of solid urethane bushings? 🤔They stick with a harder version of the oem design.
@@Minwary mugen is a branch of oem and spoon is an engine tuner so they don’t know as much as a stand alone suspension only tuner
Integra gsi and vtir used 262mm rotors
If you plan on upgrading to 282mm you need front calipers from a intrgra type r, crv or prelude
Correct
The Mini cooper discs are 279mm, and verry thin, you need an MG discs, they are 282mm and a lot thicker, awso they are full bolt on. With the mini cooper discs you need spacers for the hub studs, and you can't use the disc to hub bolts
Cool thanks for the tip, the next Change is 5 stud for me so it won’t matter, out of curiosity which mg has 4x100 282mm discs
@@TURBOTRISTO MG ZS
thanks Ruley
Easiest way, jack front wheel up, put the bush and trailing arm under the wheel let the car down slow weight of the car press the bush in so easy
If you have a second car haha but yes good tip
I really need to do this I checked my bushes after watching this and they are shot!
doooo it sir
I’ve already done this but ur videos are so well in detail
Oh really .. I was worried it was too long and boring . Thanks for your kind words
I need to replace those exact bushings on my CRX, it´s gonna be a pain to take all those 30+ year old rusty bolts off :>
i did a rusty crx just last week
I was just looking at getting an energy suspension bushing kit for the whole car.
great idea I checked out their website they look great I didn't like the engine mounts and the rear trailing arm bushes looked a bit weak but everything else looks great
The energy suspension bushings are amazing highly recommended
@@tristendecker5824 so I’ve heard man
Thank you my brotha from down unda! (My bro is really named Tristan 😂🤫)
My 96 needs all new rubber errrwhere!
your brother must be a cool guy!!! get on the new rubber bushes your car will love you and it will give you a more confident feel when cornering or handling bumps
I’m running the Energy Suspension black series. They have graphite in them so they won’t squeak.
That’s excellent, these don’t squeak either
Thank you for sharing the bushing infro! 🙏
Any time! Mario!! thanks for watching commenting and hopefully subscribing
Every honda civic need is Upgrade all bushing to energy suspension kit, Dc Integra Front and rear brake upgrade with Integra Rs booster dual and master cylinder with 2 main master cylinder brake lines to prop valve because don't need that "NON-Abs" with a 40/40. Some Stainless steel brake lines which every brand you prefer, ebay slotted rotors. Hawk brake pads.. makes a good handling daily car with your choice of suspension.
I agree mate 10000%
Great video. If you lower your car or run bags, it rips those bushings up pretty fast. I did the energy ones, pain in the ass to press in with the arms still in the car. I used a long bolt and two pieces of wood to do it, they went in sideways 10 times until it finally just popped in.
I have had them in all
My civics for years, not even a crack, all
My cars are slammed
@@TURBOTRISTO Mine blew out when it was just lowered. When I went to buy replacements I thought about "clocking" the webs on install to compensate for the lowering. But found this type luckily, the 360 degree rotational ability is so far superior. I have an EJ6 commuter on bags, drop forks, drop LCA's. She goes up and down 4 times a day minimum, it's been around two years. So far so good. Zero tire wear issues.
thas great news man, i want a car on bags
@@TURBOTRISTO It's pretty fun. I had it super low static and it was ruining the car dragging the floor pan over speed bumps. Now I can hit the driveways and train crossings without clenching up.
Thank you sir for the knowledge 🙏
You are very welcome mate
Hey Turbo T… when are you going to do a Vid on the Sheepey race Lambo in Vic?
Hoping you say after lockdown
After lockdown
My EK loves you for this man lol .
Edit - I’m running maxpeeding rods coil over kit on my 99 accord . Can’t say I’m heavily impressed until I can find a rebuild kit as the right rear is knocking in straight lines through rough roads .
Let them know they will send you a new insert
@@TURBOTRISTO meh theyre about 3 years old man lol . I doubt warranty will do anything . I mean as far as being adjustable and really good cornering results I def give em 4 outta 5 stars even as cheap as they are . I cant bitch to much lol . I may buy a set for my EK . I really wanted something expesive for this project but im not rich just yet lmao
@@lostkauz83 I know the feeling, I recomend bc coilovers for mid budget and shockworks for the best of the best on the planet, and they aren’t much more than bc’s
@@TURBOTRISTO sweet thanks for the info ! I’ll def be looking into these brands you speak of !
@@lostkauz83 no worries mate
You can also order the scarebird disc conversion. How do you feel about the energy suspension t-arm bushing?
so i have just checked out the website for energy suspension they all look awesome i would 100% recommend you buy a bush kit, the engine mounts and torque mounts look a bit cheap and dodgy though, I checked out the scarebird brake kits and to be honest, they look pretty dodgy I wouldn't use them. I would prefer some oem junk yard upgrades
Wow really! No-one bothered to mention that the Integra & 262mm EK had different front knuckles to move their 17CL caliper outward to suit the 262mm disc, with the early CRV/type R caliper bigger again to take that knuckle to the 282mm disc size.
Both bigger calipers heavier & larger brake piston requiring bigger M/cylinder & proportioning valve. CRV calipers can take 242 knuckles to 262, or 262 knuckles can take lightweight 242 calipers to fit bigger 262 brake discs with little change in pad area compared to 'the 262mm 17CL calipers.
That has all been mentioned on other videos :)
Thanks for the comments though mate please subscribe
Just so I'm understanding clearly before I go to the wreckers. In order to fit the 280m rotors on my EG I would have to swap the knuckles as well as the calipers. Or will the accord calipers bolted to the EG knocks fit the 280mm rotors? Sorry for the inconvenience. I'm sifting through all the comments and looking through all your videos to get some clarity. Thank you for the great content @turbotristan
@@Mr.IX9 Some upper spec. EG were factory fitted with 'Integra' knuckles to suit 262mm discs, those with 242 need the bigger knuckles to move their calipers further out. Same for EK though their knuckle was shorter than EG/Integra.
Great content, your killing it man. My EG will be fucking incredible because your videos!! Thank you sir!
oh really? what are you doing with it? thanks for your support by the way
Honed makes a 986 kit for cheap and that gives you 300mm rotors and 4 pistons
Honed are no doubt the best!! NO QUESTION, although that brake kit is around 5 times the price at a minimum
What do you think about the spherical bearing type replacement they offer for that trailing arm bushing. The ones I have seen are thru bolted thru the trailing arm which locate them. I’d just bet that poly will have a softer ride then a hard bearing.
Spherical are fantastic for a track only car and totally rubbish for a street car, they will vibrate and thrash out very quickly and the car will be horrible to drive
I just bought the whiteline ones for my type r .. i try to install they this week.... Big help this video
I’m glad it helps it’s amazing how many civics are out there unsafe
Man My type r i think is the most ugly in USA but I drive it almost everyday ....i enjoy my toy.....
@@dembaba6513 you have a type r civic
😮😮😮😮😮💚💚💚💚
Acura Integra
Hey mate, love watching your channel grow. Keep up the good work.
thank you man I appreciate every view and subscriber
I've replaced the trailing arm bushing a few times over the years on my EF. I wonder how those will hold up. They look super easy to put in.
They hold up
Awesomely
Anything will hold up better than the rubber ones.
Great vid man, looking at doing a brake conversion/big brake upgrade myself and had some questions. Did you use the standard ek braided brake lines from safe brakes? They say only fit ek calipers.
Yes I did, the safe brake braided lines are for the sedan/ ek4/em1 the part number through safebrake is HON-EK.RD1
Hello
Are these maxspeedingeods disc reliable?
2 years since the video was filmed, what can you report (in all sincerity) on these max brake discs?
THANKS
Nothing wrong with the actual discs I have put them on a couple of cars I am releasing a video tomorrow about a better solution and a better way of doing it, the issue is the holes are all giant and the flop around, you need spacers and things to get them to sit centred, my solution in tomorrows video is better
Hey man, if I upgrade the rear drums to disc, and I want to also upgrade the front brake calipers to those integra/CRV ones. Do I need to also upgrade to BMC, Brake booster and prop valve? Or is running the stock (EK Cxi) ones enough ?
No that will be fine
Sweet, thanks for the quick response!
How does the mounting bar that goes through trailing arm bushing lock into place? Seems like oem rubber is cast around mounting bar.
Oem is fixed the aftermarket ones slide, when you assemble them but don’t move when installed
HAHAHA NO WAY I LEGIT MADE A TRAILING ARM VIDEO LIKE A WEEK AGO just haven't uploaded it yet
I’ve done a few
Isn't the center hole of the mini discs bigger than the civics? This is what take the load.
It’s slightly larger, there shouldn’t be any load on your brake rotors once they are clamped on to the hub with the rim they centre just like any other fully floating factory disc set up, it would be ideal if the hubs were tighter so it would limit the chance of someone locking down one lug with it off set and then doing the other 3 up off set, but you would have to be pretty careless to do that
I love the color on the brake calipers, what spray did you use
It’s called ‘squirts’ by white knite sold at Bunnings if you are in Oz, I painted my whole engine bay with this paint it’s awesome, the next build will get the rocket cover painted fluro yellow to match
Anyone noticed the second brake rotor doesn’t have the two small holes for the 2 small screws but the first brake rotor set that’s already assembled does have it? Hmm
Haha you made me double check , they both 100% have the screws and the holes man watch it again :)
You’re right, the ones you assembled has them except the one @16:18 the mini cooper rotors doesn’t have 2 holes for them
The OGs used to tell me this would give me snap oversteer. Any one experience that? Fyi for the folks on a tight build budget you don't need the whole trailing arm to do the disc swap, you can just swap spindles it's just a few torx in the back.
I have never had snap over steer, I think that is a myth , I’ve driven every Honda with every kind of rear bush and not noticed much difference
I just picked up an eg8 im going to give these shot thank you for your time. @@TURBOTRISTO
Update: I ended up using the energy suspension version of this bushing it was pretty simple to install. The car rides well.
So you don't need to change the front knuckle for the bigger brake calipers ?
Yes you do on the base hatches but not on the sedan models
@TURBOTRISTO ok so I have a 97 hx coupe so I'd have to get the integra knuckles correct?
Or a ex or em1
@TURBOTRISTO and thank you for the reply man I appreciate that and for the info not many people will answer on UA-cam but I'm pretty sure I know what I have to get so the mini Cooper rotars are just a lil bigger then the integra or ex roatars but too
Mini Cooper are 282 sedan are 262 hatch are 238
Hi Tristan when upgrading to the bigger front brakes do you have to upgrade the master cylinder ? Or is the stock one ok ?
the stock on will be ok , it is advisable though if you can get a bigger master cylinder from the same car you pull the brakes out of is a great idea, personally I run a HONED brake master delete, it will give you much better pedal feel and brake control but it is a bit weird to drive on for the first day but you get used to it
@@TURBOTRISTO great info
@@TURBOTRISTO thanks for the info , keep up with the great videos !!
@@carlsmith6319 thanks for tuning in mate
Do you need to change the trailing arms when grabbing parts for this conversion. Or do you just need the rotor and all of that.
Easier to do the whole trailing arm
Disc rear has different hubs and everything
@@TURBOTRISTO yeah I figured that. I was just wondering about the trailing arms cuz I have a 95 EX coupe and I did not know if I got the rear pieces from a Integra if I could just use those same trailing arms that's on my ex or if I have to use the Integra trailing arms. And I figured since you did it you'd probably know LOL
Have you matched the brand of rotors for the back with the rotors on the front going integra caliper ? Mini Cooper 280 front rotor ?
No man not important , Mini Cooper front rotor with integra calipers
already did the big work with my coupe with that rear arms!
in Lativa we just trying to find this rear arms on it from MB civics, because the VTI versions, we just dont find this cars in our country(
Oh that’s unlucky volkov, most people here don’t use them
Either but there is an abundance of them at the wrecker
I have a 95 Eg6, should i be looking to buy Integra trailing arms, and then New rotors and pads that way?
Eg 6 should have discs on the back already but if it doesnt then just grab ek sedan brakes
Nice. The ol boot push fit!
works like a charm
@@TURBOTRISTO not everyone can afford those fancy tools bruh 😔
@@danielarnold7466 yeah exactly
Just came across your channel.this is awesome.what size wheel and offset would fit. Cheers
Anything stock or larger
I have a 1999 ex coupe. New to the car world. These mods works for it too?
100% mate go for it
No mention of the Teg?
Same same
You do great 📸 s mate 😎 I don't have civic yet but your videos are awesome
Thanks Dom! You are the man
Am sure they are 280mm the mini rotas and do you need shim spacers round the lug studs?
No you don’t need to
I poured mine with urethane mix
How was it
I have a Honda Civic 2000 ek1 4 door sedan I wanna know what spoiler can I put on the back?
On my sedan I run no spoiler, it’s entirely up to you and the look you are going for if you are going for the race look add something from a period correct late 90s touring car, if you are going more modern subtle style you could add a low small lip spoiler like an Audi or bmw might have, i guess it all depends on the style. If you go back and check my first video on my civic you will see my sedan with a pretty nice spoiler on the back I actually liked it but it wasn’t the look I wanted, I couldn’t even sell it back in the day so it went out for council collection, it’s a shame it was nice
It’s nice to be an American ❤
It’s a wild time to be American haha
Cant find Nolathane 46398g bush on your site mate.
I have listed the whiteline ones they are black and nicer
@@TURBOTRISTO okay, thought it might be the case. Thank you!
Tristan my guy , do 15s still fit with the bigger brake upgrade?
Yes they certainly do my latest video shows it
@@TURBOTRISTO thank you I’ll make sure to watch that one
Does it have to be 17cn15vn brakes calipers or does other codes work aswell? Because i can’t find the 17cn15vn anywhere
Are you talking about the front or rear
Let's get some L15 one off content pretty please 🥺
great tutorial on the brakes.🙂Subbed for more(I've a DC2 R, so just a fatter Civic. 😁).
I agree 100% that regular inspection of that trailing arm bush is a must and replace if it looks iffy, but I'd respectfully disagree with sticking a poly bush in there. The OEM bush looks a bit crap because it's designed(several Honda patents on it) to be horizontally flexible so that the arm moves rearward under braking pulling the front of the trailing arm in adding toe in and stabilising the back end of the car under braking. This passive setup even allows for differences in forces between the two wheels. It's one big reason why these chassis have such a rep for handling/cornering. A poly seriously reduces this advantage(spherical loses it entirely).
That said, if you're not on a track or driving like a demon you may not notice(I'm a meh driver so need all the help I can get) and a poly will certainly last longer.
Thanks for watching and for that awesome feedback and info I really appreciate someone that knows what they are talking about :)
@@TURBOTRISTO Thanks, but bear in mind I run outa talent in a pedal car so best ignored... 😁
Coulda went gsr rotors with integra type r calipers and type r pads on your stock dx spindles with a 3mm washer on each stud
Those rotors are expensive af for the Mini Cooper 😬
Nah not through MXR cheap as, I could of gone with integra stuff but grabbing it from another civic I can use the handbrake cables ect
@@TURBOTRISTO I just hope upgrading my front brakes to 10.3 rotors and hawk hp plus pads then switching my drums to rear disc will help with a energy suspension trailing arm bushing, new rear camber kit, 15/16ths master cylinder and 4040 proportional valve is worth the $500-600 I’m making 450whp and want it to be safe. Gotta pump brakes rn and I just bled them
@@playerinpink I went with a honed brake master delete on my car fantastic pedal feel took about a day to get used to though
@@TURBOTRISTO my buddy was just mentioning that today. Advantages/disadvantages to deleting your brake booster?
I have a 95 Del Sol... does this apply to my car as well?
I'm pretty sure this is the rear bushing that are going out in my car that I need to have replaced by using
a press to push them in...
Yes mate 100%
Subbed for sharing a name and for the info.
Thanks bro
Yo mate. Where do you located. I have ej8 i need pro to have a look on it
I’m in springvale
Great info brother !
Cheers bruzzy cuzzy
Nice info and job 👍
Thanks drezik
Is this applicable to US market Civic's? I hope so because it's detailed and I'd like to do this to my hatch
G'day Carson, YES 100% everything is exactly the same for the usa market civics, and in my experience with suspension in USDM cars you really should spend a bit of time and some money changing all the bushes in your car, trust me it will drive and handle so nice
Yes 100% same mod here as in the US.
Hey bro could you drop some links of the products and parts you used in the comment section while your website is down at the moment
Love from nz ❤️
Hey bru, I don’t have the links just yet but check out the brands I mentioned in the video and just check em out on eBay or your local parts store
Hey guys I actually got a stock ef hatback 89. I need help getting parts but I don’t know specifically from which vehicles I can swap parts with. For example I need new axles and possibly wheel bearings, I can hear rattles at fast turns and squealing at times, please help me community! I want to keep my car running. I also need new tires, I have 175/50/13s
You need to watch more of my videos then man I did a full build series on an ed
Will this brake upgrade cause fitment issues with 15" wheels and a stock offset?
I am told that it does fit behind the factory 15s, i am running 16s on my car and they clear fine, when i do the upgrade I will try slip on the stock rims and see how the clearance is
Depending on the offset, you will need to test fit afterwards
Same thing goes for saving your good ecu by replacing those 30year old capacitors
Yep great tip
I’ve been wanting to do something like after I swap out my rear trailing arms since my left side drum break is bent.
No time like the present
Hey mate what trailing arms are compatible with the ek? Im finding it hard to find one for a disc conversion
Any ek or eg or ef rear disc set up, best to find any ek sedan they all have disc rear
@@TURBOTRISTO thanks mate just expanded the search a bit more. One bloke said he has the arms and disc for $400 complete i might pick it up unless i can find cheaper. Do you have a video on doing the conversion?
sure do i have several on it, can watch the disc brakes on an ed/ef civic or you can watch the ek video i did on the silver ek about 1 year ago for both videos its the same process for both
Wow great video!! Thank you! Subscribed!
Easy as mate thank you, spread the good word to your Honda buddies :)
@@TURBOTRISTO i just bought a complete front end dc2 subframe and front end suspension upgrade kit with new hubs bearings control arms ball joints rack n pinion the whole full nine for k20 prep but running b series b16 setup atm! On my 99 civic em1 si aswell as mini cooper front n back complete conversion brake kit aswell!! Spent lots of dollars!!! Haha making sure i got everything before going on to work on it! The trailing arms is the last missing piece at least! Might get me some nolathanes!! Any website recommendation!? And great video once again! I also do some vlogs here and there and a lot of cool acceleration videos! Thanks!!!
spoolup.com.au
I have a dx with drums I have a rear disc brake swap do I need to change the prop valve?
No you don’t have to the eks have the same on all models
Thanks for the reply explains why it worked well on my ex model
Would the big brake calipers and big rotors be front and back?
No just for the front
totally doing this mod asap
you should
Hey Tristan, I am chasing hand brake cables for the disc conversion I used Ek sedan calipers but can’t find cables (pin style to suit. Any help would be appreciated.
I just got some from the wreckers
Always take cables when you take the whole. Set up
I have a set spare but only selling the complete set up
@@TURBOTRISTO how much you after
@@grantsmith8679 I actually want to keep them for a while I will be putting whiteline bushes in them and new rotors and pads and use them for the photography on my new website after that the whole package will be for sale, with install an option
Hi do you find these limit toe adjustments? I have a 2” drop with similar trailing arm bushings and can’t get toe in spec it’s slightly toed in at max setting
No not at all they work great
@@TURBOTRISTO Ok I must have some other issue going on. Do you know why the oem ones have one round bolt hole and the other oblong?
its just for centering and to eliminate the possibility of it spinning, not that it would,
most peoples biggest issue is overtightening the suspension whilst the car is in the air, all suspension components must be tighten'd up on the car when the car is at ride height to avoid taring the bushes
Hey guys anyone have issues with fitment with this? I tried it but I’m wondering if we have to change the actual spindle or knuckle because the 23T caliper bracket doesn’t clear the 280mm rotor. The bracket bolts right up by itself but doesn’t clear the rotor. Could it be the bracket itself? Thanks 🙏🏽
this is for the rear man they are only 240mm rear
@@TURBOTRISTO yes of course! Thank you for the quick response. I deff did the rears and they fit perfectly but I’m trying to do the front as well. I pulled off some cr-v rotors and brackets but they don’t clear the 280mm mini cooper rotors . I’ve seen other vids who say the knuckles need to be off an ex but this is going on a hatchback. Maybe the hatch has smaller knuckles vs the ex? I appreciate your response brother. Love your vids
the CRV knuckles and hubs should bolt directly to an eg/ek and then you can use the same hubs and everything, failing that if you are using civic knuckles you need to use the 262 civic sedan or vtir em1or ek4 hubs the integra type r calipers or the crv calipers will bolt on and clear 280/282 rotors, easily i have 4 videos on this on my channel, on is the silver ek that i put this set up on that is in this video, the other is the first one on my black civic i think it was on the first start video, and the most recent one was the 5 stud conversion on my black civic i go into more detail and better explanations
@@TURBOTRISTO ahh yes I saw your other vids! Thanks so much. I actually was able to find me some off the CR-v this afternoon and it made things a lot easier to assemble. Figured I change out the bearings and lower ball joints while I’m there. Thanks man; this is gonna be sweet when I complete it this week. Glad I found your channel. God bless 🙌🏽
thats awesome to hear mate please consider subscribing
Solid rubber upgrade might seem like a good idea but I had Prothane bushings in my 90 ef hatch and yes at low speeds and turns it felt solid and turned corners like a champ !! But now when u hit a fast corner doing 100mph plus u better be ready to drive the car real good because they don't do what they need to do and will steer u into a crash and as u try to save it you only get into a worse situation. So if u plan on hitting corners over 80mph u are going to have a handful of steering issues but under 80mph they feel great but u want a spherical style set up otherwise this mod is not good ! Trust me I know from experience. This mod should banned from any track use but I don't think I know anyone who would ever use this rubber bushing because most honda guys already know this is a no no!
Ok man, spherical are only good on the track and most people don’t drive more than 60mph in australia, so it’s all good
Awesome content
Appreciate it , there are vids lol this coming soon
how about a video on a poormans 5 lug conversion :)
Good idea, what parts would you use?
Hi, I know this vid is a bit old, but I am planning on getting disc brakes off an 5th gen EG hatch (non-abs I presume as it is not VTi) and fitting them on my 6th gen EJ9 pre-facelift 98 hatch non-abs (with the big drums in the rear and 262mm front discs). I know I am only supposed to use the trailing arm off the EG and use my lower and upper control arms. My questions are I see people mention using 99-00 Si e-brake cable, would it work fine for the EG calipers on the EK/EJ chassis? My second question is, do I need the EG brake lines for this conversion or do I need to get new ones from a 6th gen VTi?
It doesn’t matter that the video is old the information in it is timeless haha .Ditch the big drum idea get yourself some ek civic sedan rear trailing arms and discs with the handbrake cables, everything bolts in from Ed/ef eg/ej ek/em they are all
Interchaingable, also the ek sedan front knuckles are what you need to run the bigger front brakes
The videos I did on the silver ek and the red Ed show this perfectly
@@TURBOTRISTO Hey, thanks for the reply. Oh i already have the bigger knuckles. I have stock 262mm front even though it's a pre-facelift, it's those weird transitional models. I'm just gonna keep it 262 for awhile cause i got new winter tires a year ago on my stock 14's, but when i go 15's for winter too for sure i might go 282mm front, 262mm back.
About the eg brakes, that idea went to hell cause somebody beat me to them, they run out like hot bread. Not finding any ek sedans and coupes for parts either (or atleast one that have their rear brakes). That being said i do have a way out but it's a fitment issue. Since i am going to be running 15x7 et35 summers with 195/50 tire it's on the edge of rubbing fitment wise. The solution and the problem comes from a rear brake swap. I can get rear brakes from civic MA/MB (6gen fastback civics, so called Rover civics), but their rear hub is 10mm more outwards meaning my wheel will be like an et25 and will definetly rub (even though i'm on stock springs i still load it up sometimes on trips). My question is will rolling fenders (even though i try to avoid it) help with the bigger hubs from the MA/MB's and prevent the tires from rubbing? The 2nd thing i am wondering is if i get the MA/MB rear knuckle, would it be possible to use my current hubs to prefferably not roll my fenders?
Any info would be much appreciated, or perhaps a suitable substitute to the rare brake swap dillema, like a 4x100 accord or something. Sadly we don't have tegs here and it sucks cause i love how they look and they have so many good parts.
where are you from mate
@@TURBOTRISTO Bulgaria